针织工程手册，宗平生、许期颐，PDF

针织工程手册，宗平生、许期颐，PDF。22M。

内容提要

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本分册是《针织工程手册》中的经编分册。

本分册介绍了经编生产中所需要的各种设备、工艺数据、计算公式，其中包括经编组织，经编产品品种，经编针织物的结构参数及产品设计;国产及引进的各类整经机、经编机(高速、多梳、贾卡、双针床经编机及钩编机、缝编机和管编机)和附属设备的主要特征、主要机件的规格及织物疵点的产生原因和消除方法等内容。同时对经编生产消耗定额及主要技术经济指标也作了介绍。

本书可供针织工业的工程技术人员，大、中专院校师生，企业管理干部和工人查阅参考。
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经编工程是纺织和针织工程中的重要领域，经编织物在服用、装饰织物方面有广泛应用，近年来，在产业用布，特别是高科技、高强轻质复合材料方面开始有相当应用，为世所瞩目。本书内容已包括了能收集到的材料，尽可能以数据、表格形式出现，以方便广大经编工程技术人员和设计人员查阅，供各方面参考，希望能成为经编行业的有效工具书。

本分册:主编:宗平生许期颐
主审:冯勋伟
1 C* q8 D/ W& q7 _1 ]" f编写分工如下:第一章由宗平生编写，第二章由金玉燕编写，第三章由华任、盛慧萍编写，第四章由毕亚新、倪志平编写，第五章由倪志平、周孝文、蒋高明、宗平生、周保仁编写，第六章由徐金林、吴国荣编写，第七章由孙镇发、王道兴、许期颐、许万举编写，第八章由吴国荣、陈严、邱红娟、尹季盛编写，第九章由杨玉丰、陈东林、杜刚伟、蔡建英编写，第十章由胡美漩、蒋高明编写，第十一章由王道兴、周孝文编写，第十二章由许期颐编写。
6 b$ D" {3 U+ D# ~, _由于编者的水平有限，缺点、错误在所难免，恳请读者批评指正。


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《针织工程手册·经编分册》编写组

1995年5月
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目录

第一章 总述........................................................... (1)

第一节经编机的分类及代号·................................... (1)

一、经编机的分类⋯································⋯⋯ (1)

二、经编机的代号··········································⋯⋯ (1)

(一)国产经编机的代号··········.··············⋯⋯ (3)

(二)卡尔·迈邓(KarlMayer)公司经编机的代号··························( 3)

(三)利巴(LIBA)公司经编机的代号“·······⋯⋯ (5)

(四)特克斯梯玛(Textima)公司经编机的代号⋯ (6)

第二节经编机的机号和使用原料·............................. (7)

一、经编机的机号··········································⋯⋯ (7)

二、经编机可加工纱线的最大线密度···············.·⋯⋯ (8)

三、经编原料·······································。········⋯⋯ (8)

第三节经编针织物组织·......................................... (9)

一、经编针织物组织的表示方法························⋯⋯ (9)

(一)图示法·············································⋯⋯ (9)

(二)数码法······················月···················⋯⋯ (1)0

二、经编针织物的基本组织···························⋯⋯ (10)

(一)单针床墓本组织······························⋯⋯ (10)

(二)双针床基本组织····························⋯ ⋯ (11)

三、经编针织物的变化组织···························⋯⋯ (13)

(一)经绒组织·····································.·⋯⋯ (13)

(二)经料组织····························一。·。····⋯⋯ (13)

(三)变化经编组织····”···························⋯⋯ (13)

(四)变化重经组织·································⋯⋯ (13)

四、经编针织物的花色组织···························⋯⋯ (14)

(一)二~四梳经编组织⋯。·······················⋯⋯ (14)

(二)空穿经编组织·································⋯⋯ (15)

(三)缺垫经编组织·································⋯⋯ (18)

(四)衬纬经编组织······························“·⋯⋯ (20)

(五)压纱经编组织·································⋯⋯ (24)

(六)缺压经编组织·····。···························⋯⋯ (25)

(七)多梳经编组织································⋯⋯ (28)

(八)贾卡提花经编组织···················.······⋯⋯ (28)

(九)双针床花色经编组织························⋯⋯ (30)

(十)毛圈经编组织·····························。···⋯⋯ (34)

(十一)不均匀经编组织···························⋯⋯ (36)

第二章经编产品·····································.·····⋯⋯ (37)

第一节服 用经编产品·······························。·“··一(37)

一、外衣类··············。············。····················⋯⋯ (37)

(一)网眼花纹布····································⋯⋯ (37)

(二)带枝方格色织布·························，······。⋯ (37)

(三)涤纶褶裥布····················~·············⋯⋯ (38)

(四)锦、涤交织小方格起绒布···············.·⋯⋯ (39)

(五)经编毛圈布····································⋯⋯ (40)

二、衬衫类·····················~························⋯⋯ (41)

(一)锦、涤交织布·······················.········⋯⋯ (41)

(二)涤纶小网眼布···⋯⋯，·⋯⋯”·············⋯⋯ (41)

(三)薄型网眼衬衫布··············，···············⋯⋯ (42)

(四)横条纹半网眼衬衫布···，·················.⋯⋯ (43)

三、内衣类·····。·········································⋯⋯ (43)

(一)妇女内衣料之一······················⋯⋯ (43)

(二)妇女内衣料之二·····························⋯⋯ (44)

(三)便服、睡衣料·······················⋯⋯ (44)

四、运动衣类·...................... .... ......... ... . (45)

(一)氨纶有光平布·································⋯⋯ (45)

(二)闪光拉毛布····································⋯⋯ (45)

(三)双面布·····································⋯⋯ (46)

五、其它························⋯ ⋯”·········⋯⋯ (46)

(一)六角网眼长筒女袜·········⋯⋯’，·········⋯⋯ (46)

(二)彩条童袜····························.·······⋯⋯ (48)

(三)提花连裤袜、提花长筒袜、提花手套···⋯⋯ (49)

(四)鞋面料··········································⋯⋯ (49)

(五)遮阳帽布·······································⋯⋯ (50)

(六)头巾布····························⋯·⋯⋯ (51)

第二节装饰用经编产品···················⋯⋯·····(51)

一、帘帷类·······························⋯‘·········⋯⋯ (51)

(一)刷花绒窗帘布·······························⋯⋯ (51)

(二)大提花窗帘布·································⋯⋯ (52)

二、床上用品类··········································⋯⋯ (53)

(一)素色纹帐·································⋯⋯ (53)

(二)提花纹帐·⋯⋯，·······················，······⋯⋯ (53)

(三)提花床革····································⋯⋯ (54)

(四)拉舍尔毛毯···········.·······⋯⋯ (54)

三、家具面料类···························-···········⋯⋯ (5)5

(一)双针床经编绒类织物之一··············⋯⋯ (55)

(二)双针床经编绒类织抽之二··················⋯⋯ (57)

(三)拉绒织物···············“·········⋯⋯”’，··⋯⋯ (57)

四、地毯类⋯”······。·························，·········⋯⋯ (58)

(一)素色绒面地毯·································⋯⋯ (58)

(二)花色绒面地毯············，···。···············⋯⋯ (59)

(三)素色珠面地毯·································⋯⋯ (60)

五、花边类························。···················⋯⋯ (61)

(一)弹性月牙边带·......................................(61)

(二)服饰花边······················⋯⋯‘··········⋯⋯ (61)

第三节产业用经编产品·...................................... (64)

一、产业用网类·............................................... (64)

(一)六梳养殖网(渔网)························⋯⋯ (64)

(二)八梳圆网(渔网)····················⋯⋯”··⋯ (65)

(三)卫生用网·····。·································⋯⋯ (66)

(四)水果包装袋···········。···············，········⋯⋯ (67)

二、医疗用品类。·····························。···，·······⋯⋯ (68)

(一)头发移植用织物····················.········⋯⋯ (68)

(二)外科用修补材料································一(68)

三、骨架材料类···········。··········，······，···········，⋯⋯ (69)

(一)涂层材料底布·····························，···⋯⋯ (69)

(二)航空、船泊等构件材料·····················⋯⋯ (69)

四、其它·······································。⋯ (70)

(一)工业用传送带·································⋯⋯ (70)

(二)工业用过滤布·································⋯⋯ (71)

(三)涂层遮篷布························。···········⋯⋯ (72)

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第三章 经编工艺设计·...............................:............ (73)

第一节经编针织物的结构参数·............................. (73)

一、送经比·····，········································⋯⋯ (73)

二、线圈长度·······································⋯⋯ (75)

第二节原料、纱线线密度和机号的选用····.............. (77)

第三节经编织物规格·......................................... (79)

一、平方米克重.·································⋯⋯ (79)

二、密度··········································(79)

三、织物幅宽·············································⋯⋯ (81)

四、整经根数······················。······················⋯⋯ (81)

五、用纱比·········································⋯⋯ (82)

六、坯布匹重和匹长····································⋯⋯ (84)

七、整经长度············································⋯⋯ (85)

第四节上机和工艺设计表·................................... (85)

一、上机············································(85)

(一)整经机的工艺上机···························⋯⋯ (85)

(二)经编机的工艺上机···························⋯⋯ (90)

二、工艺设计表··········································⋯⋯ (90)

第五节工艺设计举例·......................................... (93)

例一·······································⋯⋯‘···········⋯⋯ (93)

(一)工艺设计及计算······························⋯⋯ (93)

(二)上机·············································⋯⋯ (94)

例二··············································(95)

(一)工艺设计及计茸······························⋯⋯ (95)

(二)上机···················.························⋯⋯ (97)

例三······································· (98)

(一)工艺设计及计算······························⋯⋯ (98)

(二)上机···················.·····················⋯⋯、二(99)

第四章整经机········································· (101)

第一节整经要求和纱线前处理························⋯⋯ (101)

一、经纱整经张力····································· (101)

二、整经纱线油剂······································ (104)

三、经编纱线前处理方法·····························⋯⋯ (105)

四、整经要求·········································· (105)

第二节分段整经机............................................ (106)

一、GE201型整经机·································⋯⋯ (106)

二、DSC型整经机····································⋯⋯ (113)

三、23型整经机·······································⋯⋯ (117)

四、4142型整经机····································⋯⋯ (119)

五、HDSM型花经轴整经机························⋯⋯ (123)

六、弹性纱线整经机····································⋯⋯ (125)

七、牵伸整经机··········。·····························⋯⋯ (126)

八、整经疵点产生原因和消除方法··················⋯⋯ (130)

第三节经轴··············································⋯⋯ (132)

一、经轴规格·············································”·⋯ (132)

二、经轴上纱线的长度和重量························⋯⋯ (133)

第五章高速经编机··········································⋯⋯ (136)

第一节普通槽针型·............................................ (136)

一、KS系列经编机····································⋯⋯ (136)

二、COPCENTRA系列经编机·‘···················⋯⋯ (161)

三、KOKETT U系列经编机·······················⋯⋯ (174)

四、GE271型经编机·································⋯⋯ (194)

五、Z304型经编机····································⋯⋯ (195)

第二节普通钩针型- Z303C型、Z303B-3型经编机·····················(2 00 )

第三节毛圈型经编机·......................................... (210)

一、KS4FBZ型毛圈经编机···························⋯⋯ (210)

二、COPCENTRA-POL型毛圈经编机·········⋯⋯ (213)

三、GE273M型毛圈经编机·······················⋯⋯ (214)

四、COP 3 HS POL型利纬毛圈经编机············⋯⋯ (215)

第四节电脑毛圈经编机·...................................... (216)

第五节电脑提花经编机·.............‘........................ (235)

第六节其它专用高速经编机·................................ (242)

一、弹性织物高速经编机······························⋯⋯ (242)

二、全幅衬纬高速经编机·····························，·，，⋯ (242)

三、SWAN WARP型经编机··············，·········⋯⋯ (244)

四、带花压板的钩针型高速经编机··················⋯⋯ (245)

五、双针床钩针型高速经编机(SIMPLEX型) ⋯⋯ (246)

第七节高速经编机织物疵点产生原因和消除方法⋯""" (248)

一、漏针··············.···································⋯⋯ (248)

二、吊针(集圈)·······································⋯⋯ (248)

三、断纱····················································。⋯ (249)

四、横条·················································⋯⋯ (250)

五、纵向条纹·············································⋯⋯ (250)

六、坏针........................................................ (250)

第六章 多梳型拉舍尔经编机·...................................(252)

第一节多梳型拉舍尔经编机的工作原理和地组织⋯""" (252)

第二节多梳型拉舍尔经编机的花型设汁及上机·........ (254)

第三节普通多梳型拉舍尔经编机·.......................... (258)

一、渔网型多梳拉舍尔经编机。·······················⋯⋯ (258)

(一)Z508F型无结渔网机························⋯⋯ (258)

(二)SGE238型经编无结织1J机···············⋯⋯ (260)

(三)RF8, RSF8型拉舍尔经编机············⋯⋯ (261)

(四)G508F, G509F型拉舍尔经编机·········⋯⋯ (262)

二、通用型拉舍尔经编机··················，···········⋯⋯ (263)

(一)GE231-75 X 9型拉舍尔经编机’，··.⋯ ⋯，二(263)

(二)G506, G513-G517型拉舍尔经编机···⋯⋯ (266)

三、高速型拉舍尔经编机·”··，····················⋯⋯，⋯ (269)

(一)RS来列拉舍尔经编机·..........................(269)

(二)RACOP 0型系列拉舍尔经编机·········⋯⋯ (272)

(三)RACOP TP系列拉舍尔经编机·········⋯⋯ (275)

第四节花边和窗帘用多梳型拉舍尔经编机·.............. (277)

一、MRS30, MRS42型拉舍尔经编机············⋯⋯ (277)

二、MRSS32型拉舍尔经编机························⋯⋯ (281)

第五节压纱板多梳型MRGSF 31/16型拉舍尔经编机······················ (2 89 )

第六节全幅衬纬型拉舍尔经编机·.......................... (295)

一、RS4MSU, RS4-10MSW-Nu型经编机···⋯⋯ (295)

二、多轴向衬纬型经编机······························⋯⋯ (297)

三、经纬纱并纤维网衬入型经编机··················⋯⋯ (300)

第七节多梳型经编机的润滑条件及疵点消除·........... (303)

一、润滑条件·············································⋯⋯ (303)

二、织物疵点产生原因和消除方法··············⋯⋯:⋯ (303)

第七章 贾卡型拉舍尔经编机······························⋯⋯ (305)

第一节贾卡型拉舍尔经编机的工作原理和地组织⋯""" (305)

一、贾卡型拉舍尔经编机的工作原理.············⋯⋯ (305)

二、贾卡型拉舍尔经编机的地组织··················⋯⋯ (310)

第二节贾卡装置............................................... (314)

一、贾卡装置的技术特征······························⋯⋯ (314)

二、贾卡装置的调整····································⋯⋯ (315)

第三节贾卡型拉舍尔经编机的花型设计与上机........ (321)

一、花型设计·························⋯⋯·········⋯⋯ (321)

二、花型与上机·····································⋯⋯ (335)

第四节贾卡型拉舍尔经编机纹板的制备·................. (341)

一、纹板的种类··········································⋯⋯ (341)

二、纹板的轧制············.····························⋯⋯ (344)

三、纹板轧孔设备·······································⋯⋯ (350)

第五节普通型贾卡拉舍尔经编机·.......................... (354)

一、GE246-4/1, 4/2型贾卡拉舍尔经编机···⋯⋯ (354)

二、ETJ4/1, ESTJ4/1-7/14型贾卡拉舍尔经编机····························(358 )

三、RJ4/1型贾卡拉舍尔经编机·····················⋯⋯ (361)

第六节毛圈型贾卡拉舍尔经编机·.......................... (363)

第七节压纱板型贾卡提花经编机·.......................... (374)

一、ZJG-5F型贾卡提花经编机··················⋯⋯ (374)

二、RJG5F-NE型贾卡提花经编机···········。···⋯⋯ (375)

三、GE241'Y-5/1型贾卡提花经编机············⋯⋯ (378)

四、RJG5/2F-NE型贾卡提花经编机············⋯⋯ (380)

第八节MRSSJ 78/1 SU型多梳型经编机·········⋯⋯ (382)

第九节贾 卡型拉舍尔经编机织物疵点的产生原因和消除方法··············(384 )

第八章 双针床型拉舍尔经编机·······················(392)

第一节双针床型拉舍尔经编机的工作原理·.............. (392)

第二节普通型双针床拉舍尔经编机...................... (394)

一、GE282型双针床经编机·····⋯⋯···········⋯⋯ (394)

二、DR8E型双针床经编机···························⋯⋯ (395)

第三节短绒型双针床拉舍尔经编机··················⋯⋯ (401)

一、RD6DPLM与RD7DPLM EBC型双针床经编机················(4 01 )

二、DG506DPLM型双针床经编机··················⋯⋯ (410)

三、GE286型双针床经编机························⋯⋯ (414)

四、润滑条件········································· (417)

第四节长绒型双针床拉舍尔经编机·....................... (417)

一、HDR6DPLM/60型双针床经编机············⋯⋯ (417)

二、GE283型双针床经编机························⋯⋯ (451)

第五节毛圈型双针床拉舍尔经编机·....................... (453)

一、HDR5PLS型双针床经编机·······················⋯ (453)

二、HDRJ5/2PLM 型双针床经编机···············⋯⋯ (454)

第六节包装袋型双针床拉舍尔经编机·.................... (456)

第七节圆筒织物型双针床拉舍尔经编机·................. (458)

一、三角裤机········································ (458)

二、HDRJ6/2-NE-EEW-ST型双针床经编机⋯ (459)

第八节 双针床型拉舍尔经编机织物疵点产生原因和消除方法············· ( 469)

4 p& p7 a1 B) G0 h  G& k' G7 @

第九章 钩编机和管编机·.........................................(472)

第一节偏钩针型钩编机·.........··。. ... ...................... (472)

一、GE711-360 X 3型电脑提花钩编机·········⋯⋯ (472)

二、COMEZ806/800型钩编机·····················⋯⋯ (475)

三、COMEZ MPR/3100型钩编机··················⋯⋯ (476)

第二节舌 针型钩编机·.........................................(477)

一、M138/1200型舌针钩编机···············”····⋯⋯ (477)

二、Decotex 138/244型舌针钩编机···············⋯⋯ (483)

三、Decotex JME型舌针钩编机·····················⋯⋯ (487)

四、GE701-800 X 6型钩编机························⋯⋯ (493)

五、COMEZ MJB/3C型提花钩编机···············⋯⋯ (496)

第三节管编机·.................................................. (497)

第四节钩编机织物疵点产生原因与消除方法·........... (501)

第十章 缝编机·······················(503)

第一节缝编机分类及缝编组织............................. (503)

一、缝编机分类····································。·····⋯⋯ (503)

二、缝编组织·············································⋯⋯ (503)

第二节纤网型缝编机·......................................... (508)

一、马利瓦特(Maliwatt)型缝编机···············⋯⋯ (508)

二、马利伏里斯(Malivlies)型缝编机············⋯⋯ (512)

第三节底布型缝编机·......................................... (514)

一、Z331型缝编机····································⋯⋯ (514)

二、马利波尔(Malipol)型缝编机···············⋯⋯ (520)

三、伏尔特克斯(Voltex)型缝编机···············⋯⋯ (523)

第四节纱线型缝编机·......................................... (525)

一、马利莫(Malimo)型缝编机··················⋯⋯ (525)

二、舒斯波尔(Schusspol)型、缝编机···············⋯⋯ (540)

三、利洛波尔(Li-opol)型毛圈缝编机············⋯⋯ (542)

第五节缝编织物疵点产生原因及消除方法·.............. (549)

第十一章经编生产辅助设备······························⋯⋯ (552)

第一节工艺用辅助设备·...................................... (552)

一、线圈长度测定仪···································⋯⋯ (552)

二、经纱张力仪··········································⋯⋯ (553)

三、硬度仪··········⋯⋯’，·····························⋯⋯ (553)

第二节维修用辅助设备·...................................... (554)

一、针块制造用设备····································⋯⋯ (554)

二、铸针专用设备·····································，·⋯⋯ (555)

三、链块倒角机···········································‘·⋯ (556)

第三节运转用辅助设备·············‘·················一⋯""" (558)

第十二章 经编生产条件和技术经济指标···············⋯⋯ (560)

第一节经编厂房要求“........................................ (560)

一、厂房地质条件·······································⋯⋯ (560)

二、对厂房的基本要求·································⋯⋯ (560)

(一)厂房高度的选用··········.·············⋯⋯”⋯ (560)

(二)柱网间距······································⋯⋯ (560)

(三)厂房的地面······················‘一··········⋯⋯ (561)

(A)厂房结构·······································⋯⋯ (561)

(五)门窗·····。·······································⋯⋯ (561)

(六)厂房墙壁······································⋯⋯ (561)

第二节经编设备的配套和排列·............................. (561)

一、经编设备的配套····································⋯⋯ (561)

二、机器排列·············································⋯⋯ (562)

(一)机器的基础尺寸······························⋯⋯ (563)

(二)排列基准尺寸·································⋯⋯ (578)

第三节经 编车间的生产条件·................................(579)

一、经编车间的温湿度·...................................... (579)

二、经编车间的照明····································⋯⋯ (580)

第四节经编产品产量·......................................... (580)

一、理论产量····················⋯⋯’，·················⋯⋯ (580)

(一)整经机的理论产童···························⋯⋯ (580)

(二)经编机的理论产量···························⋯⋯ (580)

二、生产效率·······································。·····⋯⋯ (582)

三、实际产量·············································⋯⋯ (583)

四、设备运转率。····················，······················一(583)

五、设备利用率···································，······⋯⋯ (584)

六、总产量·····················‘··························⋯⋯ (584)

七、经编机台数的确定·································⋯⋯ (584)

第五节经编生产消耗定额.................................... (584)

一、回丝率················································⋯⋯ (584)

二、机针消耗·············································⋯⋯ (585)

(一)经编机机针消耗····························⋯⋯‘·(585)

(二)整经机分纱针的消耗··························一(586)

第六节经编生产劳动定额.................................... (586)

第七节经编生产成本核算······························⋯⋯ (590)

一、经编产品成本的分类和内容·····················⋯⋯ (590)

二、产品成本计算·······································⋯⋯ (591)

( x3 P1 M; q0 r9 f
( W" Z* Q; E) g针织工程手册（人造毛皮分册），PDF。23M。

目录

第一章 总述 19
第一节 人造毛皮商品技术规格及其用途 19
第二节 人造毛皮生产方法及其生产工艺流程 20
  Z% x2 f) F: `' w' \0 P  一、纬编法生产工艺流程 20
   (一)毛条喂入法 20
   (二)毛纱割圈法 23
  二、经编法生产工艺流程 23
  三、缝编法生产工艺流程 24
第二章 主要原料、材料 25
# q+ z1 C+ c1 m: [/ B, s: b8 ~ 第一节 纤维 25
3 B1 p  W' j4 R; T; C  一、纤维分类 25
" a2 q! S& Y0 o  二、各种纤维的主要技术特征与特点 26
7 b$ H' L& p: n   (一)天然纤维 26
3 h& X# b* ]9 P+ F3 d   (二)再生纤维素纤维 28
   (三)合成纤维 30
   (四)特种纤维 37
/ i1 D1 W' k, u9 G  三、几种常用纤维的主要技术性能 40
8 X0 ~  s$ E1 o% K( D$ @" m! F( L   (一)腈纶(聚丙烯腈纤维) 40
6 ~0 [! I9 \2 c   (二)改性腈纶(丙烯腈/氯乙烯共聚物纤维) 42
- J7 f/ b7 w! Z) k, L6 w3 ?" S' m* G   (三)涤纶(聚酯纤维) 49
   (四)丙纶(聚丙烯纤维) 51
第二节 底纱与毛纱规格及其回潮率 52
第三节 涂层粘合剂与增稠剂 53
. S" k  l( E' Q. O1 g$ y  一、粘合剂的选用 53
  二、粘合剂的分类 54
! E1 ?- `* U; J  B7 U# a- g  三、几种常用粘合剂的主要特性 54
6 W* p4 q6 q# I$ L5 u1 F   (一)合成树脂 54
   (二)橡胶类粘合剂 55
   (三)增稠剂 56
第三章 织物与毛绒基本组织 57
第一节 人造毛皮基本组织 57
  一、毛条喂入法长毛绒组织 57
   (一)平针组织 57
) C2 N+ x1 Q0 J* n: y3 ~( a4 O   (二)花式组织 58
  X7 z5 T5 U9 {+ Y, ^   (三)复合组织与衬垫组织 59
   (四)花式空针组织 60
/ y* Z1 p1 \* V* j& K+ e4 k; Q$ i   (五)变化平针组织 61
# o% d( ?$ t0 [5 a4 I  二、毛纱割圈法长毛绒组织 63
   (一)“V”形组织 63
4 J2 g1 N9 s1 I. C4 M. _/ V   (二)“W”形组织 64
, z2 I. ]- a. d9 S- [" T  三、经编法长毛绒组织 64
   (一)平纹组织 65
4 ?3 U- t- B; f' g0 O   (二)花式组织 65
  四、缝编绒组织 68
   (一)地布缝合组织 68
   (二)纱线缝合组织 69
   (三)纤维网缝合组织 69
+ U! s/ P3 B9 f6 Z7 K+ ~/ g6 {% @- \ 第二节 天然裘皮特征与人工仿效技术要素 69
! ^1 @% E3 b( F6 l; s: E/ l  一、裘皮毛绒结构与特征 70
  二、裘皮毛被结构与组合分析 70
8 p$ m1 C+ p, @  三、兽毛截面形状 72
2 [  j$ t; ?, w2 B+ }7 |( r   (一)貂皮 72
   (二)狐狸皮 74
第三节 针织人造毛皮毛绒结构及其特征 74
8 G# S  y8 T& A4 \1 t  一、毛绒结构及其纤维截面形状 76
   (一)毛绒组合要素 76
1 i5 W+ G" F4 A! ]- {, {) T   (二)毛绒纤维截面形状 76
# p3 W& @7 l) E+ u5 g0 y5 G. s2 k. i  二、毛绒组合纤维及其结构特征 77
7 k  X7 E* [4 T/ ]+ a   (一)仿貂皮产品 77
   (二)仿狐狸皮产品 77
   (三)仿黄狼皮产品 77
1 _, r4 D5 L5 E0 ^3 C   (四)仿羊羔皮产品 82
2 G0 t3 O$ g, `7 ]- j1 [( a0 X: \- c第四章 毛条法长毛绒生产工艺与设备 83
第一节 主要生产工序及其条件 83
第二节 染色 84
8 o: P5 ~6 G& w$ j0 q, R% l  一、散纤维染色 84
   (一)工艺流程 84
7 {+ Q2 J/ [" p   (二)腈纶散纤维染色配方举例 84
2 j5 G* b% @7 n7 H: T3 }9 L3 J3 P   (三)染色工艺 84
5 ^6 w# Y% g6 p+ u$ t  二、染色机 86
   (一)NC464B型染色机 86
   (二)1800H型整包染色机 87
* Z! s' m, j/ a! T  F9 A  C   (三)1530N-KF型高温染色机 90
- l% W+ W: Y) q2 Y3 Q" @   (四)纤维包工序转换及其吊运 94
   (五)染色后纤维脱水 97
第三节 毛条制备 101
  一、纤维铺层 101
  二、纤维混和与烘干 101
$ p! B4 y* a2 C4 G   (一)R435型散毛喂给机 101
   (二)R456F-4型圆网烘干机 103
   (三)B261型和毛机 104
  y( x% J' b7 T7 b   (四)纤维加油与存储设备示例 106
第四节 梳毛 109
  一、毛纺工艺路线设备组合 109
3 g8 v; a- M2 k+ c   (一)TATHAM-AF7D型配毛箱 111
5 G6 ]; \7 v6 f/ P   (二)TEMAFA型喂毛箱 113
/ I/ ~+ Y; ~' I7 K  v0 t( G  二、梳毛机 114
   (一)人造毛皮用梳毛机 114
5 S; r$ y: q7 \; V: ?   (二)TATHAM型(FN271型)梳毛机 116
   (三)B272A型梳毛机及其特点 117
8 L# |8 N( ~: @; ^) [; ]   (四)毛条压缩机 118
   (五)梳毛机梳理元件的规格与型号 121
8 v) y' M+ L# C$ N; G 第五节 棉纺清钢联工艺 125
: }. T5 T0 ?- f& E/ T  一、棉纺路线清纲联工艺流程与设备组合 125
+ [/ Q7 M% b2 t* M; r  二、清钢联自控程序及其电气线路 125
/ M) z$ Q  C# k  三、A006B型、A077型、A065型混棉、开棉机 125
3 x# t0 O3 n7 r  A0 `# J, u) l   (一)主要技术特征 125
   (二)传动原理 129
  四、A177型喂棉机、A186型梳棉机、A272型并条机 130
4 n/ I. Y8 `$ R5 L6 o   (一)主要技术特征 131
& {7 F2 G- |5 M: N; u) L   (二)传动原理 133
9 b7 w6 V! B8 s7 @   (三)A272型并条机总牵伸倍数与变换齿轮的关系 134
第六节 坯布织造 136
7 N' N# P% ^0 ?4 i, c7 ]  e  一、底纱准备 136
# S- Y: k. a  q% h/ g9 S$ I9 E   (一)络筒工艺参数 137
6 c2 @( ?9 W6 f% _' q2 `   (二)络筒机 137
, r: p% a$ w* p5 @( O  二、花型制备 138
8 |# {. a8 P' ]& ]- U& a: E5 _5 R   (一)概述 138
- |/ w' U' a$ s* {* k9 }: |7 U   (二)MK系列花型制备系统 140
# _2 o$ @3 d3 R* l3 z" B   (三)HP系列花型制备系统 143
. U" ^+ I0 o  a- {( @, [- F  三、MK系列人造毛皮机 144
+ J8 [( h1 O2 ^2 s  I6 W   (一)机器主要技术特征 144
0 g9 {+ z' d2 f  O4 Q# j3 e   (二)底布成圈与纤维喂入 145
  Y9 O( d3 v# E% O( a7 I! i   (三)成圈机构 149
   (四)MK系列梳理机构 157
/ w/ [) y9 V3 Y6 q$ o" h   (五)MK系列毛皮机的传动原理 169
1 p' }' `4 F2 @3 D- W   (六)积极输纱机构 169
   (七)牵拉与卷取机构 169
3 x1 F7 J. K/ m% [7 a  D7 a   (八)MK系列人造毛皮机的附属设备 169
   (九)MK系列人造毛皮机的润滑与加油 174
( r5 ^9 m  @9 J  R: E  Q& P   (十)机器故障排除、坯布疵点产生原因及消除方法 175
  四、HP系列人造毛皮机 178
   (一)机器主要技术特征 178
! P0 l3 k6 y5 P3 _) u% C$ L8 T   (二)织针与沉降片的配合与动作 179
$ ~9 V/ m% G! q8 y" d+ y) J+ \* g   (三)电子选针机构及其动作 187
# {; Q/ {# N3 Y7 Y9 U! }* k6 D   (四)成圈元件 188
   (五)HP系列梳理机构 193
* A0 {! j4 _! @( m; b   (六)输纱机构 198
   (七)牵拉卷取机构 199
   (八)附属设备 200
; z/ Q& n2 l  U9 |( u   (九)HP系列人造毛皮机的润滑与加油 201
   (十)机器故障排除、坯布疵点产生原因及消除方法 201
  五、KPN-16型人造毛皮机 205
9 Z9 s" w8 t" Z: N  G: |  C   (一)外形特征 205
* l% m2 }0 x: e  @   (二)主要技术特征 205
: V1 \3 W! i& N* M* j   (三)成圈机构 207
7 Z0 T* f" A8 G9 V   (四)KPN型梳理机构 209
0 V/ f1 J9 J4 f) Z   (五)传动原理 210
( \* S' P; a* |) g2 S. [  六、Z261型人造毛皮机 212
   (一)主要技术特征 212
   (二)传动原理 212
   (三)成圈机构 212
, m6 @9 A% a' \* x+ W   (四)梳理机构 215
   (五)牵拉卷取机构 217
: {+ J# E. k7 ~) ^( _5 k3 S   (六)成圈元件 217
  七、GE141型人造毛皮机 217
1 G/ @; O* m4 M2 C3 ~( N3 n/ w$ `% |   (一)主要技术特征 219
   (二)传动原理 220
, E( Q4 C  Z$ x. h4 g8 `, Q' `   (三)成圈机构 220
   (四)梳理机构 227
7 U/ W8 U0 v8 u1 W) y! K   (五)牵拉卷取机构 228
' o8 w5 H; e* |9 R5 V; x1 S   (六)输纱机构 228
5 C9 {+ W* J2 g7 f. o$ E8 }   (七)润滑与加油 228
   (八)控制线路 230
) s: t! D$ ^1 y7 s) o 第七节 成品整理 230
* n% w2 F/ Z6 d( C) s! A- l! E  一、整理加工过程中的纤维效应 230
9 s; b$ h* f+ J( W" l3 W  二、整理工艺流程 230
  三、赫格(HEINZ HERGERT)系列后整理设备及其性能 230
   (一)机器配套与组合方案 230
   (二)PRM/GF-1800型单刀剪毛机 232
   (三)烫光机 240
   (四)PRS/GF型烫剪联合机 243
/ [* X4 R8 x- J# C" W: V   (五)悬挂式导布架 246
   (六)CAF·C/74型自动量卷机 248
  四、康迈特(COMET)系列后整理设备及其性能 253
   (一)机器配套与组合方案的推荐 254
   (二)AR/70C型花式剪毛机 254
. O6 A+ }2 z$ p" B. A/ X   (三)TS/2001型单刀剪毛机 258
0 x' ~8 h7 v  C3 }2 |   (四)PRA/83型烫光机 261
& o5 B3 U  t1 F2 Z6 Q! [   (五)128C型烫剪联合机 263
3 n- C" F+ R' e- o- l- H0 u   (六)G/80型压花机 264
  五、锡斯狄克(SISTIG)系列后整理机器及其性能 265
) E2 V. @& ^8 i  P   (一)机器配套与组合方案推荐 265
/ S! @, i+ M1 i& b; @4 |   (二)ZRM2/2.0型刷毛机 267
   (三)FMSH1/2.0型烫剪联合机 268
. L1 _' {6 T& [( E   (四)FPM200型单辊烫光机 271
! y; K" l$ I2 K% a8 _* L   (五)MSH1/2.0型单刀剪毛机 271
  六、涂胶与定形 276
   (一)布鲁克纳(BRUCKNER)系列(蒸汽)涂胶定形机 276
: j& G9 R" j' U   (二)马歇尔-威理姆(Marshall-Williams)1800型涂胶定形机 283
3 {8 H2 n& f, t& ~* _1 c  七、滚球机 287
: Z& _% w' G4 H1 r/ T   (一)气流循环及其成球 289
   (二)主要技术特征 289
  八、整理过程中产品疵点产生原因与消除方法 293
第五章 毛纱法长毛绒生产工艺与设备 294
第一节 毛纱法长毛绒产品的特点及其分类 294
) d& P' b+ x. }! `" e  @  一、毛纱与底纱线圈的特征 294
3 Q) H% `9 W9 D% n# o  二、织物质量的设定 294
3 l0 k8 Y% C1 o. x  三、产品分类 295
2 S8 f8 w- z( i8 q  N- V 第二节 绞纱染色 296
  一、染色设备及其性能 296
   (一)绞纱染色机 296
. X3 w" w! i3 v5 \4 ?; a   (二)绞纱染色机的主要技术特征 297
5 i, ]; l. s3 Y6 }0 E  二、染色工艺 298
5 s3 u: l4 m9 C8 W0 @   (一)工艺参数 298
   (二)膨化(显体)工艺 299
1 T9 z# l2 V0 ~: a0 D   (三)常用助剂及其主要性能 299
8 p. A) c: V( Z* `   (四)脱水与烘干 300
   (五)典型工艺举例 300
/ k! H# ^# |7 Z! c6 r   (六)绞纱染色疵点的产生原因及消除方法 301
/ x! \, s: h6 l( ~) j0 K 第三节 坯布织造 303
  一、织物组织形式 303
. K) M: C3 X4 ^* A8 G/ @  二、DKP型长毛绒针织机 303
   (一)机器特征 303
   (二)成圈与割圈机构 306
   (三)成圈元件(以DKP型为例) 308
  Q" x% T- C5 C+ L   (四)坯布疵点产生原因及消除方法 312
8 @: a* q( u# l" @& v 第四节 成品整理 312
  一、整理加工过程中的纤维效应 312
  二、工艺流程 312
  三、毛纱法长毛绒整理设备的选型及其工艺要求 313
, f0 H1 f9 W. y   (一)刷毛喂入方向及其主要工艺参数 314
   (二)烫光温度及其喂入方向 315
" h  G$ W2 ~; @# S- @3 r. {7 }$ C$ _第六章 经编法长毛绒生产工艺与设备 317
; b- X: V. b. C7 L 第一节 坯布织造 317
  一、花纹设计 317
* q3 _' D, d: @. }   (一)双针床经编织物的图示方法 317
8 f( ?. B7 L' F' e4 ~' I, j* T   (二)双针床经编织物的结构 318
7 L7 r8 I  C+ J, c/ j   (三)工艺设计 319
. f, x- @  {/ ]' l4 B1 m; K   (四)花纹制作 329
  二、HDR6DPLM/60型双针床拉舍尔经编机 331
   (一)概述 331
" X) ^2 L, B, j( a# v* ]   (二)成圈机构 333
   (三)编花装置 347
   (四)牵拉与卷取 352
2 [$ V$ R4 \! @  K6 M# N! t   (五)润滑部位 355
   (六)上机条件及主要工艺参数 357
3 L! n! B" d+ }5 t+ V   (七)产品疵点产生原因及消除方法 362
7 J: @& w7 I) z7 o  三、PSM型割绒机 364
6 s& g7 ~% C- [- h4 Q# z% n2 V6 u6 ~   (一)割绒机简介 364
- D. T: h" S+ I   (二)割绒机的主要技术特征 364
   (三)割绒机的操作标准 365
3 ^0 e$ E$ a' |2 X9 w, b 第二节 成品整理 368
" P) h1 G4 _$ N2 D7 S0 I  一、生产设备组合形式 368
5 W( K. m' f5 Z. f   二、生产工艺流程 368
2 ]* f* v- g1 x   (一)色织 368
   (二)印花 368
7 p/ ]) m9 [; v& ]   (三)匹染 368
3 g1 T) ^0 c7 g6 ~! n  三、印花 369
   (一)印花设备 369
: T: ]: I' Y1 m+ H   (二)上机条件及主要工艺参数 370
  四、匹染 373
6 a4 M1 H# j+ f+ a7 H   (一)设备 373
. c1 Y0 M; P% q+ U8 V1 R6 p   (二)上机条件及主要工艺参数 374
  五、刷花 375
  六、热定形 375
   (一)滚筒定形机 375
   (二)上机条件及主要工艺参数 376
# H% j8 Y" f, @$ r1 k第七章 缝编绒生产及其设备 377
第一节 生产与设备概况 377
. [. R! [+ l5 C9 [3 }8 C 第二节 缝编绒生产及其设备组合 377
  一、加工方法 377
* @. p6 P/ U; y) k0 U6 y- g  二、生产设备组合 378
6 R, @: _5 p6 N8 q7 q% U  三、缝编绒织物的主要技术参数 378
4 Y- P( C9 u# x! H0 z  四、成网工艺 378
8 b( M3 ]! e) W, [* D# f   (一)纤维的选择 380
& g# F' ~, K& {% S1 V   (二)纤网定量 380
   (三)梳理机与缝编机的工作宽度 380
   (四)梳理机 380
第三节 缝编绒生产 381
3 V8 L/ i* U! `7 a1 |* T7 l  v) D  一、缝编机的主要技术特征 381
  r$ J% \% k5 o' W8 Z  z2 t  二、缝编绒的编织 381
1 H* C% P0 @9 G7 k( \6 ^  三、生产工艺参数 382
# }% H% V1 Y6 _3 W  X/ k- r 第四节 成品整理 384
  一、工艺流程 384
  二、抓剪机 384
, r) I8 U! p0 C5 Q# x. ~5 G  三、主要工艺参数 385
第八章 主要经济技术指标参考 387
第一节 工艺设计 387
  一、织物规格及原料成分 387
) u: q" M5 k) ?! y& T/ b  二、织物含毛量及含纱量计算 387
. c# _& O2 S9 V5 a2 T- Q- q 第二节 生产条件及其环境保护 392
  一、生产条件 392
  二、环境保护 394
第三节 劳动定额 395
* g; ]0 v) |( [2 ^  k; w  一、生产工人劳动定额 395
8 m) C2 y; k; }% L  二、辅助生产工人劳动定额 396
9 p6 R* l, H2 R0 i