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[针织] 针织工程手册,宗平生、许期颐,PDF

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发表于 2015-11-9 20:33:43 | 显示全部楼层 |阅读模式
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针织工程手册,宗平生、许期颐,PDF。22M
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内容提要

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本分册是《针织工程手册》中的经编分册。

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本分册介绍了经编生产中所需要的各种设备、工艺数据、计算公式,其中包括经编组织,经编产品品种,经编针织物的结构参数及产品设计;国产及引进的各类整经机、经编机(高速、多梳、贾卡、双针床经编机及钩编机、缝编机和管编机)和附属设备的主要特征、主要机件的规格及织物疵点的产生原因和消除方法等内容。同时对经编生产消耗定额及主要技术经济指标也作了介绍。
本书可供针织工业的工程技术人员,大、中专院校师生,企业管理干部和工人查阅参考。. ^) z4 Z3 L  W" ^1 R& m4 `1 w3 M

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经编工程是纺织和针织工程中的重要领域,经编织物在服用、装饰织物方面有广泛应用,近年来,在产业用布,特别是高科技、高强轻质复合材料方面开始有相当应用,为世所瞩目。本书内容已包括了能收集到的材料,尽可能以数据、表格形式出现,以方便广大经编工程技术人员和设计人员查阅,供各方面参考,希望能成为经编行业的有效工具书。
本分册:主编:宗平生许期颐( B6 ^# C- {3 r5 k( w
主审:冯勋伟/ p+ w# D+ o# O$ P, s
编写分工如下:第一章由宗平生编写,第二章由金玉燕编写,第三章由华任、盛慧萍编写,第四章由毕亚新、倪志平编写,第五章由倪志平、周孝文、蒋高明、宗平生、周保仁编写,第六章由徐金林、吴国荣编写,第七章由孙镇发、王道兴、许期颐、许万举编写,第八章由吴国荣、陈严、邱红娟、尹季盛编写,第九章由杨玉丰、陈东林、杜刚伟、蔡建英编写,第十章由胡美漩、蒋高明编写,第十一章由王道兴、周孝文编写,第十二章由许期颐编写。" Y) l( f0 r% v# a7 ^
由于编者的水平有限,缺点、错误在所难免,恳请读者批评指正。
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《针织工程手册·经编分册》编写组
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 楼主| 发表于 2015-11-9 20:51:24 | 显示全部楼层
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目录
第一章 总述........................................................... (1)
第一节经编机的分类及代号·................................... (1)
一、经编机的分类⋯································⋯⋯ (1)
二、经编机的代号··········································⋯⋯ (1)
()国产经编机的代号··········.··············⋯⋯ (3)
()卡尔·迈邓(KarlMayer)公司经编机的代号··························( 3)
()利巴(LIBA)公司经编机的代号“·······⋯⋯ (5)
()特克斯梯玛(Textima)公司经编机的代号⋯ (6)
第二节经编机的机号和使用原料·............................. (7)
一、经编机的机号··········································⋯⋯ (7)
二、经编机可加工纱线的最大线密度···············⋯⋯ (8)
三、经编原料·······································。········⋯⋯ (8)
第三节经编针织物组织·......................................... (9)
一、经编针织物组织的表示方法························⋯⋯ (9)
()图示法·············································⋯⋯ (9)
()数码法······················月···················⋯⋯ (1)0
二、经编针织物的基本组织···························⋯⋯ (10)
()单针床墓本组织······························⋯⋯ (10)
()双针床基本组织····························⋯ (11)
三、经编针织物的变化组织···························⋯⋯ (13)
()经绒组织·····································⋯⋯ (13)
()经料组织····························一。·。····⋯⋯ (13)
()变化经编组织····”···························⋯⋯ (13)
()变化重经组织·································⋯⋯ (13)
四、经编针织物的花色组织···························⋯⋯ (14)
()~四梳经编组织⋯。·······················⋯⋯ (14)
()空穿经编组织·································⋯⋯ (15)
()缺垫经编组织·································⋯⋯ (18)
()衬纬经编组织······························“·⋯⋯ (20)
()压纱经编组织·································⋯⋯ (24)
()缺压经编组织·····。···························⋯⋯ (25)
()多梳经编组织································⋯⋯ (28)
()贾卡提花经编组织···················.······⋯⋯ (28)
()双针床花色经编组织························⋯⋯ (30)
()毛圈经编组织·····························。···⋯⋯ (34)
(十一)不均匀经编组织···························⋯⋯ (36)
第二章经编产品·····································.·····⋯⋯ (37)
第一节服 用经编产品·······························。·“··一(37)
一、外衣类··············。············。····················⋯⋯ (37)
()网眼花纹布····································⋯⋯ (37)
()带枝方格色织布·························,······。⋯ (37)
()涤纶褶裥布····················~·············⋯⋯ (38)
()锦、涤交织小方格起绒布···············⋯⋯ (39)
()经编毛圈布····································⋯⋯ (40)
二、衬衫类·····················~························⋯⋯ (41)
()锦、涤交织布·······················.········⋯⋯ (41)
()涤纶小网眼布···⋯⋯,·⋯⋯”·············⋯⋯ (41)
()薄型网眼衬衫布··············,···············⋯⋯ (42)
()横条纹半网眼衬衫布···,·················.⋯⋯ (43)
三、内衣类·····。·········································⋯⋯ (43)
()妇女内衣料之一······················⋯⋯ (43)
()妇女内衣料之二·····························⋯⋯ (44)
()便服、睡衣料·······················⋯⋯ (44)
四、运动衣类·...................... .... ......... ... . (45)
()氨纶有光平布·································⋯⋯ (45)
()闪光拉毛布····································⋯⋯ (45)
()双面布·····································⋯⋯ (46)
五、其它························⋯ ”·········⋯⋯ (46)
()六角网眼长筒女袜·········⋯⋯,·········⋯⋯ (46)
()彩条童袜····························.·······⋯⋯ (48)
()提花连裤袜、提花长筒袜、提花手套···⋯⋯ (49)
()鞋面料··········································⋯⋯ (49)
()遮阳帽布·······································⋯⋯ (50)
()头巾布····························⋯·⋯⋯ (51)
第二节装饰用经编产品···················⋯⋯·····(51)
一、帘帷类·······························⋯‘·········⋯⋯ (51)
()刷花绒窗帘布·······························⋯⋯ (51)
()大提花窗帘布·································⋯⋯ (52)
二、床上用品类··········································⋯⋯ (53)
()素色纹帐·································⋯⋯ (53)
()提花纹帐·⋯⋯,·······················,······⋯⋯ (53)
()提花床革····································⋯⋯ (54)
()拉舍尔毛毯···········.·······⋯⋯ (54)
三、家具面料类···························-···········⋯⋯ (5)5
()双针床经编绒类织物之一··············⋯⋯ (55)
()双针床经编绒类织抽之二··················⋯⋯ (57)
()拉绒织物···············“·········⋯⋯”’,··⋯⋯ (57)
四、地毯类⋯”······。·························,·········⋯⋯ (58)
()素色绒面地毯·································⋯⋯ (58)
()花色绒面地毯············,···。···············⋯⋯ (59)
()素色珠面地毯·································⋯⋯ (60)
五、花边类························。···················⋯⋯ (61)
()弹性月牙边带·......................................(61)
()服饰花边······················⋯⋯‘··········⋯⋯ (61)
第三节产业用经编产品·...................................... (64)
一、产业用网类·............................................... (64)
()六梳养殖网(渔网)························⋯⋯ (64)
()八梳圆网(渔网)····················⋯⋯”·· (65)
()卫生用网·····。·································⋯⋯ (66)
()水果包装袋···········。···············,········⋯⋯ (67)
二、医疗用品类。·····························。···,·······⋯⋯ (68)
()头发移植用织物····················.········⋯⋯ (68)
()外科用修补材料································一(68)
三、骨架材料类···········。··········,······,···········,⋯⋯ (69)
()涂层材料底布·····························,···⋯⋯ (69)
()航空、船泊等构件材料·····················⋯⋯ (69)
四、其它·······································。⋯ (70)
()工业用传送带·································⋯⋯ (70)
()工业用过滤布·································⋯⋯ (71)
()涂层遮篷布························。···········⋯⋯ (72)
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 楼主| 发表于 2015-11-9 20:53:52 | 显示全部楼层

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第三章 经编工艺设计·...............................:............ (73)
第一节经编针织物的结构参数·............................. (73)
一、送经比·····,········································⋯⋯ (73)
二、线圈长度·······································⋯⋯ (75)
第二节原料、纱线线密度和机号的选用····.............. (77)
第三节经编织物规格·......................................... (79)
一、平方米克重.·································⋯⋯ (79)
二、密度··········································(79)
三、织物幅宽·············································⋯⋯ (81)
四、整经根数······················。······················⋯⋯ (81)
五、用纱比·········································⋯⋯ (82)
六、坯布匹重和匹长····································⋯⋯ (84)
七、整经长度············································⋯⋯ (85)
第四节上机和工艺设计表·................................... (85)
一、上机············································(85)
()整经机的工艺上机···························⋯⋯ (85)
()经编机的工艺上机···························⋯⋯ (90)
二、工艺设计表··········································⋯⋯ (90)
第五节工艺设计举例·......................................... (93)
例一·······································⋯⋯‘···········⋯⋯ (93)
()工艺设计及计算······························⋯⋯ (93)
()上机·············································⋯⋯ (94)
例二··············································(95)
()工艺设计及计茸······························⋯⋯ (95)
()上机···················.························⋯⋯ (97)
例三······································· (98)
()工艺设计及计算······························⋯⋯ (98)
()上机···················.·····················⋯⋯、二(99)
第四章整经机········································· (101)
第一节整经要求和纱线前处理························⋯⋯ (101)
一、经纱整经张力····································· (101)
二、整经纱线油剂······································ (104)
三、经编纱线前处理方法·····························⋯⋯ (105)
四、整经要求·········································· (105)
第二节分段整经机............................................ (106)
一、GE201型整经机·································⋯⋯ (106)
二、DSC型整经机····································⋯⋯ (113)
三、23型整经机·······································⋯⋯ (117)
四、4142型整经机····································⋯⋯ (119)
五、HDSM型花经轴整经机························⋯⋯ (123)
六、弹性纱线整经机····································⋯⋯ (125)
七、牵伸整经机··········。·····························⋯⋯ (126)
八、整经疵点产生原因和消除方法··················⋯⋯ (130)
第三节经轴··············································⋯⋯ (132)
一、经轴规格·············································”·⋯ (132)
二、经轴上纱线的长度和重量························⋯⋯ (133)
第五章高速经编机··········································⋯⋯ (136)
第一节普通槽针型·............................................ (136)
一、KS系列经编机····································⋯⋯ (136)
二、COPCENTRA系列经编机·‘···················⋯⋯ (161)
三、KOKETT U系列经编机·······················⋯⋯ (174)
四、GE271型经编机·································⋯⋯ (194)
五、Z304型经编机····································⋯⋯ (195)
第二节普通钩针型- Z303C型、Z303B-3型经编机·····················(2 00 )
第三节毛圈型经编机·......................................... (210)
一、KS4FBZ型毛圈经编机···························⋯⋯ (210)
二、COPCENTRA-POL型毛圈经编机·········⋯⋯ (213)
三、GE273M型毛圈经编机·······················⋯⋯ (214)
四、COP 3 HS POL型利纬毛圈经编机············⋯⋯ (215)
第四节电脑毛圈经编机·...................................... (216)
第五节电脑提花经编机·..................................... (235)
第六节其它专用高速经编机·................................ (242)
一、弹性织物高速经编机······························⋯⋯ (242)
二、全幅衬纬高速经编机·····························,·,,⋯ (242)
三、SWAN WARP型经编机··············,·········⋯⋯ (244)
四、带花压板的钩针型高速经编机··················⋯⋯ (245)
五、双针床钩针型高速经编机(SIMPLEX) ⋯⋯ (246)
第七节高速经编机织物疵点产生原因和消除方法⋯""" (248)
一、漏针··············.···································⋯⋯ (248)
二、吊针(集圈)·······································⋯⋯ (248)
三、断纱····················································。⋯ (249)
四、横条·················································⋯⋯ (250)
五、纵向条纹·············································⋯⋯ (250)
六、坏针........................................................ (250)
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 楼主| 发表于 2015-11-9 20:55:26 | 显示全部楼层
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第六章 多梳型拉舍尔经编机·...................................(252)
第一节多梳型拉舍尔经编机的工作原理和地组织⋯""" (252)
第二节多梳型拉舍尔经编机的花型设汁及上机·........ (254)
第三节普通多梳型拉舍尔经编机·.......................... (258)
一、渔网型多梳拉舍尔经编机。·······················⋯⋯ (258)
()Z508F型无结渔网机························⋯⋯ (258)
()SGE238型经编无结织1J机···············⋯⋯ (260)
()RF8, RSF8型拉舍尔经编机············⋯⋯ (261)
()G508F, G509F型拉舍尔经编机·········⋯⋯ (262)
二、通用型拉舍尔经编机··················,···········⋯⋯ (263)
()GE231-75 X 9型拉舍尔经编机’,··. ⋯,二(263)
()G506, G513-G517型拉舍尔经编机···⋯⋯ (266)
三、高速型拉舍尔经编机·”··,····················⋯⋯,⋯ (269)
()RS来列拉舍尔经编机·..........................(269)
()RACOP 0型系列拉舍尔经编机·········⋯⋯ (272)
()RACOP TP系列拉舍尔经编机·········⋯⋯ (275)
第四节花边和窗帘用多梳型拉舍尔经编机·.............. (277)
一、MRS30, MRS42型拉舍尔经编机············⋯⋯ (277)
二、MRSS32型拉舍尔经编机························⋯⋯ (281)
第五节压纱板多梳型MRGSF 31/16型拉舍尔经编机······················ (2 89 )
第六节全幅衬纬型拉舍尔经编机·.......................... (295)
一、RS4MSU, RS4-10MSW-Nu型经编机···⋯⋯ (295)
二、多轴向衬纬型经编机······························⋯⋯ (297)
三、经纬纱并纤维网衬入型经编机··················⋯⋯ (300)
第七节多梳型经编机的润滑条件及疵点消除·........... (303)
一、润滑条件·············································⋯⋯ (303)
二、织物疵点产生原因和消除方法··············⋯⋯: (303)
第七章 贾卡型拉舍尔经编机······························⋯⋯ (305)
第一节贾卡型拉舍尔经编机的工作原理和地组织⋯""" (305)
一、贾卡型拉舍尔经编机的工作原理.············⋯⋯ (305)
二、贾卡型拉舍尔经编机的地组织··················⋯⋯ (310)
第二节贾卡装置............................................... (314)
一、贾卡装置的技术特征······························⋯⋯ (314)
二、贾卡装置的调整····································⋯⋯ (315)
第三节贾卡型拉舍尔经编机的花型设计与上机........ (321)
一、花型设计·························⋯⋯·········⋯⋯ (321)
二、花型与上机·····································⋯⋯ (335)
第四节贾卡型拉舍尔经编机纹板的制备·................. (341)
一、纹板的种类··········································⋯⋯ (341)
二、纹板的轧制············.····························⋯⋯ (344)
三、纹板轧孔设备·······································⋯⋯ (350)
第五节普通型贾卡拉舍尔经编机·.......................... (354)
一、GE246-4/1, 4/2型贾卡拉舍尔经编机···⋯⋯ (354)
二、ETJ4/1, ESTJ4/1-7/14型贾卡拉舍尔经编机····························(358 )
三、RJ4/1型贾卡拉舍尔经编机·····················⋯⋯ (361)
第六节毛圈型贾卡拉舍尔经编机·.......................... (363)
第七节压纱板型贾卡提花经编机·.......................... (374)
一、ZJG-5F型贾卡提花经编机··················⋯⋯ (374)
二、RJG5F-NE型贾卡提花经编机···········。···⋯⋯ (375)
三、GE241'Y-5/1型贾卡提花经编机············⋯⋯ (378)
四、RJG5/2F-NE型贾卡提花经编机············⋯⋯ (380)
第八节MRSSJ 78/1 SU型多梳型经编机·········⋯⋯ (382)
第九节贾 卡型拉舍尔经编机织物疵点的产生原因和消除方法··············(384 )
第八章 双针床型拉舍尔经编机·······················(392)
第一节双针床型拉舍尔经编机的工作原理·.............. (392)
第二节普通型双针床拉舍尔经编机...................... (394)
一、GE282型双针床经编机·····⋯⋯···········⋯⋯ (394)
二、DR8E型双针床经编机···························⋯⋯ (395)
第三节短绒型双针床拉舍尔经编机··················⋯⋯ (401)
一、RD6DPLMRD7DPLM EBC型双针床经编机················(4 01 )
二、DG506DPLM型双针床经编机··················⋯⋯ (410)
三、GE286型双针床经编机························⋯⋯ (414)
四、润滑条件········································· (417)
第四节长绒型双针床拉舍尔经编机·....................... (417)
一、HDR6DPLM/60型双针床经编机············⋯⋯ (417)
二、GE283型双针床经编机························⋯⋯ (451)
第五节毛圈型双针床拉舍尔经编机·....................... (453)
一、HDR5PLS型双针床经编机·······················⋯ (453)
二、HDRJ5/2PLM 型双针床经编机···············⋯⋯ (454)
第六节包装袋型双针床拉舍尔经编机·.................... (456)
第七节圆筒织物型双针床拉舍尔经编机·................. (458)
一、三角裤机········································ (458)
二、HDRJ6/2-NE-EEW-ST型双针床经编机⋯ (459)
第八节 双针床型拉舍尔经编机织物疵点产生原因和消除方法············· ( 469)
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第九章 钩编机和管编机·.........................................(472)
第一节偏钩针型钩编机·.........··。. ... ...................... (472)
一、GE711-360 X 3型电脑提花钩编机·········⋯⋯ (472)
二、COMEZ806/800型钩编机·····················⋯⋯ (475)
三、COMEZ MPR/3100型钩编机··················⋯⋯ (476)
第二节舌 针型钩编机·.........................................(477)
一、M138/1200型舌针钩编机···············”····⋯⋯ (477)
二、Decotex 138/244型舌针钩编机···············⋯⋯ (483)
三、Decotex JME型舌针钩编机·····················⋯⋯ (487)
四、GE701-800 X 6型钩编机························⋯⋯ (493)
五、COMEZ MJB/3C型提花钩编机···············⋯⋯ (496)
第三节管编机·.................................................. (497)
第四节钩编机织物疵点产生原因与消除方法·........... (501)
第十章 缝编机·······················(503)
第一节缝编机分类及缝编组织............................. (503)
一、缝编机分类····································。·····⋯⋯ (503)
二、缝编组织·············································⋯⋯ (503)
第二节纤网型缝编机·......................................... (508)
一、马利瓦特(Maliwatt)型缝编机···············⋯⋯ (508)
二、马利伏里斯(Malivlies)型缝编机············⋯⋯ (512)
第三节底布型缝编机·......................................... (514)
一、Z331型缝编机····································⋯⋯ (514)
二、马利波尔(Malipol)型缝编机···············⋯⋯ (520)
三、伏尔特克斯(Voltex)型缝编机···············⋯⋯ (523)
第四节纱线型缝编机·......................................... (525)
一、马利莫(Malimo)型缝编机··················⋯⋯ (525)
二、舒斯波尔(Schusspol)型、缝编机···············⋯⋯ (540)
三、利洛波尔(Li-opol)型毛圈缝编机············⋯⋯ (542)
第五节缝编织物疵点产生原因及消除方法·.............. (549)
第十一章经编生产辅助设备······························⋯⋯ (552)
第一节工艺用辅助设备·...................................... (552)
一、线圈长度测定仪···································⋯⋯ (552)
二、经纱张力仪··········································⋯⋯ (553)
三、硬度仪··········⋯⋯,·····························⋯⋯ (553)
第二节维修用辅助设备·...................................... (554)
一、针块制造用设备····································⋯⋯ (554)
二、铸针专用设备·····································,·⋯⋯ (555)
三、链块倒角机···········································‘·⋯ (556)
第三节运转用辅助设备·············‘·················一⋯""" (558)
第十二章 经编生产条件和技术经济指标···············⋯⋯ (560)
第一节经编厂房要求“........................................ (560)
一、厂房地质条件·······································⋯⋯ (560)
二、对厂房的基本要求·································⋯⋯ (560)
()厂房高度的选用··········.·············⋯⋯ (560)
()柱网间距······································⋯⋯ (560)
()厂房的地面······················‘一··········⋯⋯ (561)
(A)厂房结构·······································⋯⋯ (561)
()门窗·····。·······································⋯⋯ (561)
()厂房墙壁······································⋯⋯ (561)
第二节经编设备的配套和排列·............................. (561)
一、经编设备的配套····································⋯⋯ (561)
二、机器排列·············································⋯⋯ (562)
()机器的基础尺寸······························⋯⋯ (563)
()排列基准尺寸·································⋯⋯ (578)
第三节经 编车间的生产条件·................................(579)
一、经编车间的温湿度·...................................... (579)
二、经编车间的照明····································⋯⋯ (580)
第四节经编产品产量·......................................... (580)
一、理论产量····················⋯⋯,·················⋯⋯ (580)
()整经机的理论产童···························⋯⋯ (580)
()经编机的理论产量···························⋯⋯ (580)
二、生产效率·······································。·····⋯⋯ (582)
三、实际产量·············································⋯⋯ (583)
四、设备运转率。····················,······················一(583)
五、设备利用率···································,······⋯⋯ (584)
六、总产量·····················‘··························⋯⋯ (584)
七、经编机台数的确定·································⋯⋯ (584)
第五节经编生产消耗定额.................................... (584)
一、回丝率················································⋯⋯ (584)
二、机针消耗·············································⋯⋯ (585)
()经编机机针消耗····························⋯⋯‘·(585)
()整经机分纱针的消耗··························一(586)
第六节经编生产劳动定额.................................... (586)
第七节经编生产成本核算······························⋯⋯ (590)
一、经编产品成本的分类和内容·····················⋯⋯ (590)
二、产品成本计算·······································⋯⋯ (591)
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 楼主| 发表于 2015-11-10 20:14:48 | 显示全部楼层
本帖最后由 拉拉扯扯 于 2015-11-10 20:16 编辑
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4 _7 L* A5 v; g! v4 A+ i针织工程手册(人造毛皮分册),PDF。23M) }1 r2 K1 o% l
促织网-纺织知识网-针织工程手册(人造毛皮分册).jpg

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目录
第一章 总述 19+ c) O; u; C, z9 O  I" t9 ]4 y
第一节 人造毛皮商品技术规格及其用途 19" Y$ L/ z0 l6 v) j. m
第二节 人造毛皮生产方法及其生产工艺流程 206 S( t- y0 o6 h; J- g0 C( @* O
  一、纬编法生产工艺流程 20% `, f- H8 r( w( c# n
   (一)毛条喂入法 20  v% j6 L: I# r
   (二)毛纱割圈法 23
  d9 ]) O  {" C& Z) F  二、经编法生产工艺流程 23
4 O8 P+ f) P2 I  三、缝编法生产工艺流程 249 [4 ~& t' a5 L" {  D1 x" v
第二章 主要原料、材料 25
9 y% f& W9 l" I; F( [' u  P 第一节 纤维 25
4 ~9 F; k8 f! P0 X1 u  一、纤维分类 25' |! l$ {; D3 _" _* u5 F. ?
  二、各种纤维的主要技术特征与特点 26
, q& F7 c/ d+ Z- V0 u   (一)天然纤维 26
3 \* K/ D2 }* p   (二)再生纤维素纤维 286 S( H+ E9 o0 d* n4 E
   (三)合成纤维 306 t' v$ @( N) T
   (四)特种纤维 37; s1 }+ t  T1 |
  三、几种常用纤维的主要技术性能 40
2 F2 \, @7 l$ B) |   (一)腈纶(聚丙烯腈纤维) 40
4 m+ @# E( f* z/ X   (二)改性腈纶(丙烯腈/氯乙烯共聚物纤维) 42+ Q+ Q8 q& S% C3 N# W/ B
   (三)涤纶(聚酯纤维) 49
4 U$ D4 e4 q3 C# S+ V   (四)丙纶(聚丙烯纤维) 51( }! _. S* n+ j9 t& S, k: F$ ]# @, L
第二节 底纱与毛纱规格及其回潮率 52* e0 R) g! a' r+ N# N5 `. }. @- T
第三节 涂层粘合剂与增稠剂 535 z; U1 z8 K1 }$ D
  一、粘合剂的选用 53
3 R, F. m2 {) b; k  二、粘合剂的分类 54/ Q1 j: c) H% g2 y- I& s( Z
  三、几种常用粘合剂的主要特性 54- R* M2 Y# q8 J! f
   (一)合成树脂 544 j8 F& |' _8 {+ p; S0 S1 V0 E
   (二)橡胶类粘合剂 55
. y- y; @) T# u' O+ ^, z   (三)增稠剂 56) L1 D' ]3 T( l7 k$ C/ I  a
第三章 织物与毛绒基本组织 57
$ L) E# v: o8 `! v9 F 第一节 人造毛皮基本组织 57
/ m( @8 s! m6 i% w' T9 I5 P  一、毛条喂入法长毛绒组织 571 x: n/ D2 n2 B3 u0 t, o( p0 ?9 b
   (一)平针组织 57$ s" u  ~6 Z/ S
   (二)花式组织 58' f7 G3 Y& y1 c- }' j
   (三)复合组织与衬垫组织 59
$ D& e) X: Y- |  F3 [! Z- u   (四)花式空针组织 60( v0 I! V# z" w9 c' [! ~5 ~) u
   (五)变化平针组织 61
) q( n6 `  \( T% U- ^0 C/ G1 z8 O  二、毛纱割圈法长毛绒组织 63" M& `9 T% P% m3 f+ `
   (一)“V”形组织 63" V( Z! X+ J( a( x( ^# z; M' j4 N
   (二)“W”形组织 64/ L2 |3 r! n3 x
  三、经编法长毛绒组织 642 \# D6 p3 L# o- \# ]5 v/ M
   (一)平纹组织 658 p+ s& F4 Z& J1 x, k& E9 Q
   (二)花式组织 65
5 {3 J* Z; j( [+ x( b  四、缝编绒组织 68( f8 Z8 r4 v4 `: l2 k, h4 g
   (一)地布缝合组织 687 ^9 u$ M; D0 L" I/ Z! d
   (二)纱线缝合组织 69
. ~# L8 D) h+ E* Y   (三)纤维网缝合组织 69
1 D% i4 P' a- t/ {. e8 S+ _' d" M5 Z 第二节 天然裘皮特征与人工仿效技术要素 693 O" c# y8 z. V" x
  一、裘皮毛绒结构与特征 70: p, W$ C1 W2 f% r* O5 w( i( h
  二、裘皮毛被结构与组合分析 70
$ s. q2 f0 `" T8 ~/ ?# N/ }: Q  三、兽毛截面形状 72) }, l, x) a0 M+ y0 ?
   (一)貂皮 72
- ?! M! q8 \" W( \7 A   (二)狐狸皮 744 W( }% D) ]: T# D/ U
第三节 针织人造毛皮毛绒结构及其特征 74
& i6 o+ ?" L1 K; q2 o5 O; F- t  一、毛绒结构及其纤维截面形状 76$ [. j$ f) W9 P2 P. T
   (一)毛绒组合要素 764 C3 ^! z8 B" o
   (二)毛绒纤维截面形状 76+ }: Y2 M. G- P+ M+ \6 f
  二、毛绒组合纤维及其结构特征 77; w0 d& L( f8 S" s( U. q
   (一)仿貂皮产品 77
  T  t! s; U3 o) a; c   (二)仿狐狸皮产品 77
- z( e5 a  |0 N+ z# c  F" i   (三)仿黄狼皮产品 77
2 \$ x/ n3 n1 L: D- e   (四)仿羊羔皮产品 82
7 @- j6 K* I! ?! I第四章 毛条法长毛绒生产工艺与设备 83
0 x  o" B8 \0 \# M! ] 第一节 主要生产工序及其条件 83
) T5 Y# u" ]) W0 Y0 K5 ` 第二节 染色 84
$ Q- R  h0 z  O& z  一、散纤维染色 84  O6 {7 i9 P' F. n  a
   (一)工艺流程 84
; X7 E' V: L* V0 l& `   (二)腈纶散纤维染色配方举例 84: E* c! j% n9 R: b! ^& [* w
   (三)染色工艺 842 w* {( ~5 b$ I% U5 x  e* B
  二、染色机 86* `8 K5 R( ^) _8 [! Y" {0 U' N
   (一)NC464B型染色机 86/ Z9 v: }$ ~" v8 _: w  v
   (二)1800H型整包染色机 87
8 v1 R: K# Y$ v0 P# ?6 K   (三)1530N-KF型高温染色机 90
! G1 K1 m. k" O   (四)纤维包工序转换及其吊运 94
$ C/ y/ L7 m3 O# v   (五)染色后纤维脱水 97; }7 u0 {7 M8 s0 {) q
第三节 毛条制备 101+ W) |# y0 j* w( G
  一、纤维铺层 1013 \' Y, P7 F$ \  J
  二、纤维混和与烘干 101
  w1 S1 u4 r. e5 y- O   (一)R435型散毛喂给机 101
5 v3 n/ _4 J' X9 o/ z1 x  ~   (二)R456F-4型圆网烘干机 103
4 M. W1 H3 V6 W5 i' }   (三)B261型和毛机 1043 n7 n5 ~3 I# Y/ j+ }
   (四)纤维加油与存储设备示例 106
$ \6 Z4 [" a& s+ N8 i 第四节 梳毛 109! A! l/ v/ A' s9 P6 x$ A3 |
  一、毛纺工艺路线设备组合 1091 p7 C0 {  T; ~4 X. u9 t! N) }
   (一)TATHAM-AF7D型配毛箱 111
. f% M' A) ]/ o9 }2 t   (二)TEMAFA型喂毛箱 113% ]0 {! I" f0 Y
  二、梳毛机 114
# I' W2 j3 H: s/ [/ F, l   (一)人造毛皮用梳毛机 114  `$ Q8 A5 l: ?* a
   (二)TATHAM型(FN271型)梳毛机 116
2 P7 N8 q& E" V' Z6 L$ h9 Y   (三)B272A型梳毛机及其特点 117% j( D6 ?$ M+ f8 }
   (四)毛条压缩机 118! i1 y2 A3 V' o4 t
   (五)梳毛机梳理元件的规格与型号 121
  k0 X. r+ d' x( L* E 第五节 棉纺清钢联工艺 125* w9 s5 j# b: v$ |
  一、棉纺路线清纲联工艺流程与设备组合 125
" }( N8 V! B! b7 m  二、清钢联自控程序及其电气线路 125
& U4 J0 o* V% {! T) Y  三、A006B型、A077型、A065型混棉、开棉机 125
: X$ q1 y. f1 J) k  f* h% U9 y   (一)主要技术特征 1256 R6 `& q  U; T- r. H% g" _4 W
   (二)传动原理 129
; e# i' q* }3 X- P7 ?  四、A177型喂棉机、A186型梳棉机、A272型并条机 130
0 F4 c2 I* Z+ z: ?  w9 @   (一)主要技术特征 131
8 I% ^# A$ w1 z# N   (二)传动原理 1331 o4 O8 Y/ P2 V6 t
   (三)A272型并条机总牵伸倍数与变换齿轮的关系 134
) z( S  R. p$ U9 `% X 第六节 坯布织造 136
6 u0 Q* q0 N; G/ L  一、底纱准备 136( e! l- H2 }7 J# j" h8 \
   (一)络筒工艺参数 137
, U- ]3 s* c! r  l1 M0 \5 X   (二)络筒机 137
. I! C3 ^; f0 m+ h" g6 k9 [3 `  二、花型制备 138$ @( |! C' k* r. G( `' K  t. f
   (一)概述 1380 C0 R+ I+ J8 |" i' m5 ?0 o1 ?
   (二)MK系列花型制备系统 140
7 K# Y0 B; y3 o: a   (三)HP系列花型制备系统 143
6 w2 z% y$ f, y6 ^# A7 g  三、MK系列人造毛皮机 144, Q8 ^, M) x! A+ L2 B- F+ m2 Z! K
   (一)机器主要技术特征 144
2 t5 s+ Q0 m* ]- K   (二)底布成圈与纤维喂入 145
: j) l1 a$ K- O2 G: |( U/ _+ [   (三)成圈机构 149* g& C) ]+ x" w& C
   (四)MK系列梳理机构 157
+ W- X1 G* v( g   (五)MK系列毛皮机的传动原理 1699 b' E5 `4 |/ C( t. x
   (六)积极输纱机构 169
( c8 I/ p. d" F7 e. ?9 z+ }   (七)牵拉与卷取机构 169
" I, F" H2 O  [# \/ n: t   (八)MK系列人造毛皮机的附属设备 169
/ \9 ~. S# m. @/ O7 T   (九)MK系列人造毛皮机的润滑与加油 174/ _* M( d5 c, [: t9 P
   (十)机器故障排除、坯布疵点产生原因及消除方法 175
- H/ u$ E3 n, J. o- T& I+ |  四、HP系列人造毛皮机 178
$ I5 w3 h: V0 L' t4 V$ ~" V" E! m   (一)机器主要技术特征 178
3 \7 T% v. R8 U  ]   (二)织针与沉降片的配合与动作 179: D5 q$ D! ~" e8 d
   (三)电子选针机构及其动作 1871 O& T# e4 _1 [* j% D8 ^7 W
   (四)成圈元件 188( u' K9 c4 Q9 S" [: B; i9 V
   (五)HP系列梳理机构 193( O" M4 W% i& I3 \* Q+ u
   (六)输纱机构 198
, e2 }0 e2 j$ [$ F3 F3 o2 {" s- U   (七)牵拉卷取机构 199
& q5 a$ g1 w+ e4 Z   (八)附属设备 2000 J  c. ^. I7 [& z5 l* {
   (九)HP系列人造毛皮机的润滑与加油 201
9 e. e$ n4 K9 `6 W% p) C   (十)机器故障排除、坯布疵点产生原因及消除方法 2018 w8 C0 Y' ?( E. Y# |% n
  五、KPN-16型人造毛皮机 2053 [9 ]- i4 z- `' t) }% Y+ b
   (一)外形特征 2054 }6 ?5 z7 q: D2 E! S7 r+ n
   (二)主要技术特征 205" @: R3 k5 i" }  E
   (三)成圈机构 207
6 P+ T  x) S" C/ h' M- B$ t6 B& v   (四)KPN型梳理机构 2093 v$ h  m" N7 a0 c5 w
   (五)传动原理 2105 a0 i3 Q  i' d7 q% `
  六、Z261型人造毛皮机 212
8 R2 w+ W7 e5 |6 [+ ^   (一)主要技术特征 212
: h, b! l9 S6 x8 S# j3 [* P   (二)传动原理 212
; j% s! }0 b" \# C- n' _, a& r9 i- y   (三)成圈机构 212
. r3 [0 D  C6 _$ ]0 X9 n   (四)梳理机构 215, D: I; f+ q1 ]6 W1 C* U3 Q1 P: u
   (五)牵拉卷取机构 217
- B9 w( t& a% R) B   (六)成圈元件 217. [& `2 q) O; u
  七、GE141型人造毛皮机 217
$ ?1 f8 ]9 _& m   (一)主要技术特征 219
% w! s1 G/ l- E. i8 y. W   (二)传动原理 220
1 p3 I/ v2 H% N   (三)成圈机构 220
4 X; t6 z; V- O: c( E* Z& ]   (四)梳理机构 2275 Z, x! x5 A) Y6 \4 S% `+ y( Y6 w
   (五)牵拉卷取机构 228
& o& ]! O9 M( F% I2 E  F   (六)输纱机构 228# Q* W0 a, w% z1 x7 l: X: X2 J& r
   (七)润滑与加油 2287 t7 k. Q6 X& r1 y' k
   (八)控制线路 230  R! y# G+ b+ S0 w- Z. B" u
第七节 成品整理 230
4 C/ L) q: O  j. p  一、整理加工过程中的纤维效应 2300 X1 U2 E; N' O$ @: _) B& s% N4 O
  二、整理工艺流程 230
; {6 V2 C, x7 q+ I7 Y! J: p2 Q6 y* D: J  k  三、赫格(HEINZ HERGERT)系列后整理设备及其性能 230" }( v( p" x: C8 M! N0 B3 E; c: e8 e
   (一)机器配套与组合方案 230# X  o' N) r3 _4 Q% H
   (二)PRM/GF-1800型单刀剪毛机 2329 z# ?6 f! J8 K+ j9 e
   (三)烫光机 240  K6 X, ^6 J$ ^9 J4 G: u
   (四)PRS/GF型烫剪联合机 2433 v9 u. \# \" ~" [2 O" X4 C2 W
   (五)悬挂式导布架 246
' \3 K' U. r2 F. `   (六)CAF·C/74型自动量卷机 248
4 ]3 g  F7 A2 G. Z  四、康迈特(COMET)系列后整理设备及其性能 253; c+ s2 Q$ h) e9 z& M. K- D& h9 R4 @
   (一)机器配套与组合方案的推荐 254% U9 C/ p" G) t; E  A0 A& L
   (二)AR/70C型花式剪毛机 254
6 l8 _! Y* @' d7 a* N   (三)TS/2001型单刀剪毛机 258! m0 E4 n+ |" P* s% [! p. c; y" k7 p* D8 `
   (四)PRA/83型烫光机 261
' o& s2 N& W- c   (五)128C型烫剪联合机 263! k& |2 O6 Z, K1 A% P& D4 b
   (六)G/80型压花机 264
  D2 R7 _# I7 j- e  五、锡斯狄克(SISTIG)系列后整理机器及其性能 265
* R2 Z7 d( m% ?" t3 e   (一)机器配套与组合方案推荐 265
# x/ r4 R5 ]* x2 ?( O8 |; E   (二)ZRM2/2.0型刷毛机 267
/ {) V0 n  R' R4 G2 R, b+ o& q   (三)FMSH1/2.0型烫剪联合机 268' H7 i2 S0 r8 F1 \! ~) ?
   (四)FPM200型单辊烫光机 2711 x" }$ J& O: v1 i7 Q( {% P
   (五)MSH1/2.0型单刀剪毛机 271# [& C- }, ~: R9 u, B# {
  六、涂胶与定形 276
, F* v/ Y* p/ f2 ~   (一)布鲁克纳(BRUCKNER)系列(蒸汽)涂胶定形机 276
8 Q* l/ [, i3 A& M; m% K   (二)马歇尔-威理姆(Marshall-Williams)1800型涂胶定形机 283
8 z* u8 \. X7 h6 p  _  七、滚球机 287
# q4 x4 n( b  {+ a   (一)气流循环及其成球 289
  O1 A" S% N# z! s' l   (二)主要技术特征 2891 J4 P& V" n/ }+ m, x+ b* \  r& w
  八、整理过程中产品疵点产生原因与消除方法 293
/ L# _% e' p" I$ y9 B; s5 p第五章 毛纱法长毛绒生产工艺与设备 294, V. y  x0 l& T7 m! E( o/ @. K
第一节 毛纱法长毛绒产品的特点及其分类 2943 ~0 n  N! J: _' i" Y- m+ e3 B
  一、毛纱与底纱线圈的特征 294/ x# N7 ]0 k9 z) v! c$ Q1 u4 Z5 B
  二、织物质量的设定 2941 h# d0 _; X1 b9 y6 o, O0 f
  三、产品分类 295) ~0 P  n0 e% D+ [, I% h( E) ^3 J
第二节 绞纱染色 2968 B4 _- }# _2 z$ i5 g$ k5 f
  一、染色设备及其性能 2964 N  F$ I; i3 _& \2 W6 ]
   (一)绞纱染色机 296
5 K# v4 G) T4 y; Y6 B! B7 v   (二)绞纱染色机的主要技术特征 297
# I) C- i, ~% R  二、染色工艺 298
0 N$ R' `' c$ S- U6 x) ^   (一)工艺参数 298
$ N# V. W1 X4 G: h" N5 t/ {   (二)膨化(显体)工艺 299
% C5 b  A$ l' N   (三)常用助剂及其主要性能 299: T- n% k6 _- J! {& h
   (四)脱水与烘干 300
. ?5 N9 f  Y) v, w/ S   (五)典型工艺举例 3000 |6 M7 K8 B( G  b) X6 ~
   (六)绞纱染色疵点的产生原因及消除方法 301
+ l& a  v# T3 `* I3 Z 第三节 坯布织造 3034 H, I# R3 P7 ]7 n$ \# q; \
  一、织物组织形式 303
, M+ Q7 I! i5 m6 w  二、DKP型长毛绒针织机 303
3 M: B% H: [; b   (一)机器特征 303
1 r$ C) b' \% h+ B' s0 d   (二)成圈与割圈机构 306' g! h8 R+ R' V" _4 a. w( }' I( G
   (三)成圈元件(以DKP型为例) 308% r! Z1 \5 |6 V+ R, u" M
   (四)坯布疵点产生原因及消除方法 3124 I/ E8 @1 i) C- x: T3 g; S
第四节 成品整理 312  U6 p' S: R' x
  一、整理加工过程中的纤维效应 3129 I4 b+ a. d: W* Q, C
  二、工艺流程 312
' j- i7 i) P4 P4 t" k; U  三、毛纱法长毛绒整理设备的选型及其工艺要求 313
; K+ g! K* U+ ?: f+ c   (一)刷毛喂入方向及其主要工艺参数 314
; Q2 {* F/ X" Z6 ?, w6 ~   (二)烫光温度及其喂入方向 315: w3 E" }, {0 I# J# J; y
第六章 经编法长毛绒生产工艺与设备 3176 P) b+ r5 Q6 c; D
第一节 坯布织造 3175 A/ K; k+ y7 m* O5 c4 s( S" b
  一、花纹设计 317
: j9 k! O' Z3 i* S   (一)双针床经编织物的图示方法 317% V& Z# o0 m/ j
   (二)双针床经编织物的结构 3182 Q% ?; B0 [& n* C( a
   (三)工艺设计 3195 l" N; M9 F2 U, _1 W- Y# r/ ?9 o% Z
   (四)花纹制作 3297 x2 `9 f! u0 X2 ]1 e) e2 K
  二、HDR6DPLM/60型双针床拉舍尔经编机 331
: t' E5 D& V, {, _! I( f: x   (一)概述 331
% K! j3 `# e0 @" B   (二)成圈机构 333
+ M+ \+ \: T% H6 \- p3 h' z# \5 }& O3 W   (三)编花装置 347. j+ u& ]7 J$ [7 g$ M5 S& r/ T
   (四)牵拉与卷取 352; [, i1 J6 {) C9 G& J5 }
   (五)润滑部位 355
* D/ ]1 z: i' R   (六)上机条件及主要工艺参数 3573 Q! v$ q! @( I# B9 s! y  U
   (七)产品疵点产生原因及消除方法 362) x" C- j3 F0 ]% W5 C0 t9 `! x
  三、PSM型割绒机 364; ^* y( N* i" o
   (一)割绒机简介 364
4 p) A$ U* U7 ?9 z* U2 M* D   (二)割绒机的主要技术特征 364
+ C1 g- `& p& f  p   (三)割绒机的操作标准 365
2 T, U6 a1 e- Y3 R 第二节 成品整理 368+ L% p% N& u, G
  一、生产设备组合形式 3681 @! \9 P5 v$ m- w# K+ G* L8 R
   二、生产工艺流程 3686 p5 H: b! q6 M  y" M+ w; A
   (一)色织 368
3 {2 R  t4 \# x7 e, |! m, ?% H   (二)印花 368
; u+ e+ r; t8 l. x  i7 a8 f   (三)匹染 368
5 R' z* [  W% P% M) k3 o& R  三、印花 3695 C% E3 p& _& P; O. k  R- p! U
   (一)印花设备 369
- C) f5 F. Z+ H5 |   (二)上机条件及主要工艺参数 370) N5 D: x6 ~5 y
  四、匹染 373# ]7 k! Y8 P5 t$ b
   (一)设备 3734 Q  N, E. A6 L' \' N
   (二)上机条件及主要工艺参数 374* a6 S, p4 D6 M! u+ j
  五、刷花 375
; X; g5 L: B, j  D& h  六、热定形 375" o& P& A( @5 G# V, D4 \& C6 x
   (一)滚筒定形机 375
" H! N, g: w0 a' \/ h/ D   (二)上机条件及主要工艺参数 376* B3 G0 r/ Y/ }. F
第七章 缝编绒生产及其设备 3771 f; ?  m4 R: `$ x& R
第一节 生产与设备概况 377
2 X% `# K$ a9 K4 ~ 第二节 缝编绒生产及其设备组合 377
- r+ a. J3 k% _$ t4 d  一、加工方法 377
2 E* t  a2 B. S8 m  二、生产设备组合 378$ J/ t3 m: H7 t$ n) T) M
  三、缝编绒织物的主要技术参数 378
7 W" I% k! R! R6 R  四、成网工艺 378) e& d! k  }2 u! s# c
   (一)纤维的选择 380# [  j- I' \/ q: p. `2 _+ F' R
   (二)纤网定量 380! ?$ s* i7 w! X3 S) C
   (三)梳理机与缝编机的工作宽度 380
8 l: {2 J- a$ `! ]   (四)梳理机 3807 z% U; r# H0 |. B
第三节 缝编绒生产 381- f7 c: H9 `! _0 r/ H* \
  一、缝编机的主要技术特征 381: Y! s2 T  }+ q! z
  二、缝编绒的编织 381
$ t/ z- B# A3 [' f1 @  三、生产工艺参数 3820 ]* C$ Z2 q% O1 }9 ]' Z% v( X
第四节 成品整理 384
0 X$ w* p) b0 }3 H) {4 x$ @2 z  一、工艺流程 384
/ a7 y" B6 i7 R! }9 o" ^9 m  二、抓剪机 384
7 ^; Y. N  [' W, l2 M3 I  三、主要工艺参数 385' `; d6 ~. [+ N
第八章 主要经济技术指标参考 3871 Y1 Q# d2 Y( ]7 {" X
第一节 工艺设计 3870 X+ G2 [( B# U" B
  一、织物规格及原料成分 387
' y: V( p' a. N5 }9 E  二、织物含毛量及含纱量计算 387
7 m( u6 f" g! ?; ~. e6 G 第二节 生产条件及其环境保护 392
1 V7 N: k& N- i' u; O  一、生产条件 392/ H; }0 G$ f7 {; s4 `5 V
  二、环境保护 3940 J7 m& g, t# E# V* \: z
第三节 劳动定额 395
$ r! Y/ Y, |" t# u9 @( S  一、生产工人劳动定额 395
3 h5 _8 W1 R6 M4 e  二、辅助生产工人劳动定额 3969 x6 G8 E' M* \6 }

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