针织工程手册，宗平生、许期颐，PDF

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针织工程手册，宗平生、许期颐，PDF。22M。

内容提要

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本分册是《针织工程手册》中的经编分册。

本分册介绍了经编生产中所需要的各种设备、工艺数据、计算公式，其中包括经编组织，经编产品品种，经编针织物的结构参数及产品设计;国产及引进的各类整经机、经编机(高速、多梳、贾卡、双针床经编机及钩编机、缝编机和管编机)和附属设备的主要特征、主要机件的规格及织物疵点的产生原因和消除方法等内容。同时对经编生产消耗定额及主要技术经济指标也作了介绍。

本书可供针织工业的工程技术人员，大、中专院校师生，企业管理干部和工人查阅参考。
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编者的话

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经编工程是纺织和针织工程中的重要领域，经编织物在服用、装饰织物方面有广泛应用，近年来，在产业用布，特别是高科技、高强轻质复合材料方面开始有相当应用，为世所瞩目。本书内容已包括了能收集到的材料，尽可能以数据、表格形式出现，以方便广大经编工程技术人员和设计人员查阅，供各方面参考，希望能成为经编行业的有效工具书。

本分册:主编:宗平生许期颐
主审:冯勋伟
编写分工如下:第一章由宗平生编写，第二章由金玉燕编写，第三章由华任、盛慧萍编写，第四章由毕亚新、倪志平编写，第五章由倪志平、周孝文、蒋高明、宗平生、周保仁编写，第六章由徐金林、吴国荣编写，第七章由孙镇发、王道兴、许期颐、许万举编写，第八章由吴国荣、陈严、邱红娟、尹季盛编写，第九章由杨玉丰、陈东林、杜刚伟、蔡建英编写，第十章由胡美漩、蒋高明编写，第十一章由王道兴、周孝文编写，第十二章由许期颐编写。
由于编者的水平有限，缺点、错误在所难免，恳请读者批评指正。

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《针织工程手册·经编分册》编写组

1995年5月
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目录

第一章 总述........................................................... (1)

第一节经编机的分类及代号·................................... (1)

一、经编机的分类⋯································⋯⋯ (1)

二、经编机的代号··········································⋯⋯ (1)

(一)国产经编机的代号··········.··············⋯⋯ (3)

(二)卡尔·迈邓(KarlMayer)公司经编机的代号··························( 3)

(三)利巴(LIBA)公司经编机的代号“·······⋯⋯ (5)

(四)特克斯梯玛(Textima)公司经编机的代号⋯ (6)

第二节经编机的机号和使用原料·............................. (7)

一、经编机的机号··········································⋯⋯ (7)

二、经编机可加工纱线的最大线密度···············.·⋯⋯ (8)

三、经编原料·······································。········⋯⋯ (8)

第三节经编针织物组织·......................................... (9)

一、经编针织物组织的表示方法························⋯⋯ (9)

(一)图示法·············································⋯⋯ (9)

(二)数码法······················月···················⋯⋯ (1)0

二、经编针织物的基本组织···························⋯⋯ (10)

(一)单针床墓本组织······························⋯⋯ (10)

(二)双针床基本组织····························⋯ ⋯ (11)

三、经编针织物的变化组织···························⋯⋯ (13)

(一)经绒组织·····································.·⋯⋯ (13)

(二)经料组织····························一。·。····⋯⋯ (13)

(三)变化经编组织····”···························⋯⋯ (13)

(四)变化重经组织·································⋯⋯ (13)

四、经编针织物的花色组织···························⋯⋯ (14)

(一)二~四梳经编组织⋯。·······················⋯⋯ (14)

(二)空穿经编组织·································⋯⋯ (15)

(三)缺垫经编组织·································⋯⋯ (18)

(四)衬纬经编组织······························“·⋯⋯ (20)

(五)压纱经编组织·································⋯⋯ (24)

(六)缺压经编组织·····。···························⋯⋯ (25)

(七)多梳经编组织································⋯⋯ (28)

(八)贾卡提花经编组织···················.······⋯⋯ (28)

(九)双针床花色经编组织························⋯⋯ (30)

(十)毛圈经编组织·····························。···⋯⋯ (34)

(十一)不均匀经编组织···························⋯⋯ (36)

第二章经编产品·····································.·····⋯⋯ (37)

第一节服 用经编产品·······························。·“··一(37)

一、外衣类··············。············。····················⋯⋯ (37)

(一)网眼花纹布····································⋯⋯ (37)

(二)带枝方格色织布·························，······。⋯ (37)

(三)涤纶褶裥布····················~·············⋯⋯ (38)

(四)锦、涤交织小方格起绒布···············.·⋯⋯ (39)

(五)经编毛圈布····································⋯⋯ (40)

二、衬衫类·····················~························⋯⋯ (41)

(一)锦、涤交织布·······················.········⋯⋯ (41)

(二)涤纶小网眼布···⋯⋯，·⋯⋯”·············⋯⋯ (41)

(三)薄型网眼衬衫布··············，···············⋯⋯ (42)

(四)横条纹半网眼衬衫布···，·················.⋯⋯ (43)

三、内衣类·····。·········································⋯⋯ (43)

(一)妇女内衣料之一······················⋯⋯ (43)

(二)妇女内衣料之二·····························⋯⋯ (44)

(三)便服、睡衣料·······················⋯⋯ (44)

四、运动衣类·...................... .... ......... ... . (45)

(一)氨纶有光平布·································⋯⋯ (45)

(二)闪光拉毛布····································⋯⋯ (45)

(三)双面布·····································⋯⋯ (46)

五、其它························⋯ ⋯”·········⋯⋯ (46)

(一)六角网眼长筒女袜·········⋯⋯’，·········⋯⋯ (46)

(二)彩条童袜····························.·······⋯⋯ (48)

(三)提花连裤袜、提花长筒袜、提花手套···⋯⋯ (49)

(四)鞋面料··········································⋯⋯ (49)

(五)遮阳帽布·······································⋯⋯ (50)

(六)头巾布····························⋯·⋯⋯ (51)

第二节装饰用经编产品···················⋯⋯·····(51)

一、帘帷类·······························⋯‘·········⋯⋯ (51)

(一)刷花绒窗帘布·······························⋯⋯ (51)

(二)大提花窗帘布·································⋯⋯ (52)

二、床上用品类··········································⋯⋯ (53)

(一)素色纹帐·································⋯⋯ (53)

(二)提花纹帐·⋯⋯，·······················，······⋯⋯ (53)

(三)提花床革····································⋯⋯ (54)

(四)拉舍尔毛毯···········.·······⋯⋯ (54)

三、家具面料类···························-···········⋯⋯ (5)5

(一)双针床经编绒类织物之一··············⋯⋯ (55)

(二)双针床经编绒类织抽之二··················⋯⋯ (57)

(三)拉绒织物···············“·········⋯⋯”’，··⋯⋯ (57)

四、地毯类⋯”······。·························，·········⋯⋯ (58)

(一)素色绒面地毯·································⋯⋯ (58)

(二)花色绒面地毯············，···。···············⋯⋯ (59)

(三)素色珠面地毯·································⋯⋯ (60)

五、花边类························。···················⋯⋯ (61)

(一)弹性月牙边带·......................................(61)

(二)服饰花边······················⋯⋯‘··········⋯⋯ (61)

第三节产业用经编产品·...................................... (64)

一、产业用网类·............................................... (64)

(一)六梳养殖网(渔网)························⋯⋯ (64)

(二)八梳圆网(渔网)····················⋯⋯”··⋯ (65)

(三)卫生用网·····。·································⋯⋯ (66)

(四)水果包装袋···········。···············，········⋯⋯ (67)

二、医疗用品类。·····························。···，·······⋯⋯ (68)

(一)头发移植用织物····················.········⋯⋯ (68)

(二)外科用修补材料································一(68)

三、骨架材料类···········。··········，······，···········，⋯⋯ (69)

(一)涂层材料底布·····························，···⋯⋯ (69)

(二)航空、船泊等构件材料·····················⋯⋯ (69)

四、其它·······································。⋯ (70)

(一)工业用传送带·································⋯⋯ (70)

(二)工业用过滤布·································⋯⋯ (71)

(三)涂层遮篷布························。···········⋯⋯ (72)

第三章 经编工艺设计·...............................:............ (73)

第一节经编针织物的结构参数·............................. (73)

一、送经比·····，········································⋯⋯ (73)

二、线圈长度·······································⋯⋯ (75)

第二节原料、纱线线密度和机号的选用····.............. (77)

第三节经编织物规格·......................................... (79)

一、平方米克重.·································⋯⋯ (79)

二、密度··········································(79)

三、织物幅宽·············································⋯⋯ (81)

四、整经根数······················。······················⋯⋯ (81)

五、用纱比·········································⋯⋯ (82)

六、坯布匹重和匹长····································⋯⋯ (84)

七、整经长度············································⋯⋯ (85)

第四节上机和工艺设计表·................................... (85)

一、上机············································(85)

(一)整经机的工艺上机···························⋯⋯ (85)

(二)经编机的工艺上机···························⋯⋯ (90)

二、工艺设计表··········································⋯⋯ (90)

第五节工艺设计举例·......................................... (93)

例一·······································⋯⋯‘···········⋯⋯ (93)

(一)工艺设计及计算······························⋯⋯ (93)

(二)上机·············································⋯⋯ (94)

例二··············································(95)

(一)工艺设计及计茸······························⋯⋯ (95)

(二)上机···················.························⋯⋯ (97)

例三······································· (98)

(一)工艺设计及计算······························⋯⋯ (98)

(二)上机···················.·····················⋯⋯、二(99)

第四章整经机········································· (101)

第一节整经要求和纱线前处理························⋯⋯ (101)

一、经纱整经张力····································· (101)

二、整经纱线油剂······································ (104)

三、经编纱线前处理方法·····························⋯⋯ (105)

四、整经要求·········································· (105)

第二节分段整经机............................................ (106)

一、GE201型整经机·································⋯⋯ (106)

二、DSC型整经机····································⋯⋯ (113)

三、23型整经机·······································⋯⋯ (117)

四、4142型整经机····································⋯⋯ (119)

五、HDSM型花经轴整经机························⋯⋯ (123)

六、弹性纱线整经机····································⋯⋯ (125)

七、牵伸整经机··········。·····························⋯⋯ (126)

八、整经疵点产生原因和消除方法··················⋯⋯ (130)

第三节经轴··············································⋯⋯ (132)

一、经轴规格·············································”·⋯ (132)

二、经轴上纱线的长度和重量························⋯⋯ (133)

第五章高速经编机··········································⋯⋯ (136)

第一节普通槽针型·............................................ (136)

一、KS系列经编机····································⋯⋯ (136)

二、COPCENTRA系列经编机·‘···················⋯⋯ (161)

三、KOKETT U系列经编机·······················⋯⋯ (174)

四、GE271型经编机·································⋯⋯ (194)

五、Z304型经编机····································⋯⋯ (195)

第二节普通钩针型- Z303C型、Z303B-3型经编机·····················(2 00 )

第三节毛圈型经编机·......................................... (210)

一、KS4FBZ型毛圈经编机···························⋯⋯ (210)

二、COPCENTRA-POL型毛圈经编机·········⋯⋯ (213)

三、GE273M型毛圈经编机·······················⋯⋯ (214)

四、COP 3 HS POL型利纬毛圈经编机············⋯⋯ (215)

第四节电脑毛圈经编机·...................................... (216)

第五节电脑提花经编机·.............‘........................ (235)

第六节其它专用高速经编机·................................ (242)

一、弹性织物高速经编机······························⋯⋯ (242)

二、全幅衬纬高速经编机·····························，·，，⋯ (242)

三、SWAN WARP型经编机··············，·········⋯⋯ (244)

四、带花压板的钩针型高速经编机··················⋯⋯ (245)

五、双针床钩针型高速经编机(SIMPLEX型) ⋯⋯ (246)

第七节高速经编机织物疵点产生原因和消除方法⋯""" (248)

一、漏针··············.···································⋯⋯ (248)

二、吊针(集圈)·······································⋯⋯ (248)

三、断纱····················································。⋯ (249)

四、横条·················································⋯⋯ (250)

五、纵向条纹·············································⋯⋯ (250)

六、坏针........................................................ (250)

第六章 多梳型拉舍尔经编机·...................................(252)

第一节多梳型拉舍尔经编机的工作原理和地组织⋯""" (252)

第二节多梳型拉舍尔经编机的花型设汁及上机·........ (254)

第三节普通多梳型拉舍尔经编机·.......................... (258)

一、渔网型多梳拉舍尔经编机。·······················⋯⋯ (258)

(一)Z508F型无结渔网机························⋯⋯ (258)

(二)SGE238型经编无结织1J机···············⋯⋯ (260)

(三)RF8, RSF8型拉舍尔经编机············⋯⋯ (261)

(四)G508F, G509F型拉舍尔经编机·········⋯⋯ (262)

二、通用型拉舍尔经编机··················，···········⋯⋯ (263)

(一)GE231-75 X 9型拉舍尔经编机’，··.⋯ ⋯，二(263)

(二)G506, G513-G517型拉舍尔经编机···⋯⋯ (266)

三、高速型拉舍尔经编机·”··，····················⋯⋯，⋯ (269)

(一)RS来列拉舍尔经编机·..........................(269)

(二)RACOP 0型系列拉舍尔经编机·········⋯⋯ (272)

(三)RACOP TP系列拉舍尔经编机·········⋯⋯ (275)

第四节花边和窗帘用多梳型拉舍尔经编机·.............. (277)

一、MRS30, MRS42型拉舍尔经编机············⋯⋯ (277)

二、MRSS32型拉舍尔经编机························⋯⋯ (281)

第五节压纱板多梳型MRGSF 31/16型拉舍尔经编机······················ (2 89 )

第六节全幅衬纬型拉舍尔经编机·.......................... (295)

一、RS4MSU, RS4-10MSW-Nu型经编机···⋯⋯ (295)

二、多轴向衬纬型经编机······························⋯⋯ (297)

三、经纬纱并纤维网衬入型经编机··················⋯⋯ (300)

第七节多梳型经编机的润滑条件及疵点消除·........... (303)

一、润滑条件·············································⋯⋯ (303)

二、织物疵点产生原因和消除方法··············⋯⋯:⋯ (303)

第七章 贾卡型拉舍尔经编机······························⋯⋯ (305)

第一节贾卡型拉舍尔经编机的工作原理和地组织⋯""" (305)

一、贾卡型拉舍尔经编机的工作原理.············⋯⋯ (305)

二、贾卡型拉舍尔经编机的地组织··················⋯⋯ (310)

第二节贾卡装置............................................... (314)

一、贾卡装置的技术特征······························⋯⋯ (314)

二、贾卡装置的调整····································⋯⋯ (315)

第三节贾卡型拉舍尔经编机的花型设计与上机........ (321)

一、花型设计·························⋯⋯·········⋯⋯ (321)

二、花型与上机·····································⋯⋯ (335)

第四节贾卡型拉舍尔经编机纹板的制备·................. (341)

一、纹板的种类··········································⋯⋯ (341)

二、纹板的轧制············.····························⋯⋯ (344)

三、纹板轧孔设备·······································⋯⋯ (350)

第五节普通型贾卡拉舍尔经编机·.......................... (354)

一、GE246-4/1, 4/2型贾卡拉舍尔经编机···⋯⋯ (354)

二、ETJ4/1, ESTJ4/1-7/14型贾卡拉舍尔经编机····························(358 )

三、RJ4/1型贾卡拉舍尔经编机·····················⋯⋯ (361)

第六节毛圈型贾卡拉舍尔经编机·.......................... (363)

第七节压纱板型贾卡提花经编机·.......................... (374)

一、ZJG-5F型贾卡提花经编机··················⋯⋯ (374)

二、RJG5F-NE型贾卡提花经编机···········。···⋯⋯ (375)

三、GE241'Y-5/1型贾卡提花经编机············⋯⋯ (378)

四、RJG5/2F-NE型贾卡提花经编机············⋯⋯ (380)

第八节MRSSJ 78/1 SU型多梳型经编机·········⋯⋯ (382)

第九节贾 卡型拉舍尔经编机织物疵点的产生原因和消除方法··············(384 )

第八章 双针床型拉舍尔经编机·······················(392)

第一节双针床型拉舍尔经编机的工作原理·.............. (392)

第二节普通型双针床拉舍尔经编机...................... (394)

一、GE282型双针床经编机·····⋯⋯···········⋯⋯ (394)

二、DR8E型双针床经编机···························⋯⋯ (395)

第三节短绒型双针床拉舍尔经编机··················⋯⋯ (401)

一、RD6DPLM与RD7DPLM EBC型双针床经编机················(4 01 )

二、DG506DPLM型双针床经编机··················⋯⋯ (410)

三、GE286型双针床经编机························⋯⋯ (414)

四、润滑条件········································· (417)

第四节长绒型双针床拉舍尔经编机·....................... (417)

一、HDR6DPLM/60型双针床经编机············⋯⋯ (417)

二、GE283型双针床经编机························⋯⋯ (451)

第五节毛圈型双针床拉舍尔经编机·....................... (453)

一、HDR5PLS型双针床经编机·······················⋯ (453)

二、HDRJ5/2PLM 型双针床经编机···············⋯⋯ (454)

第六节包装袋型双针床拉舍尔经编机·.................... (456)

第七节圆筒织物型双针床拉舍尔经编机·................. (458)

一、三角裤机········································ (458)

二、HDRJ6/2-NE-EEW-ST型双针床经编机⋯ (459)

第八节 双针床型拉舍尔经编机织物疵点产生原因和消除方法············· ( 469)

第九章 钩编机和管编机·.........................................(472)

第一节偏钩针型钩编机·.........··。. ... ...................... (472)

一、GE711-360 X 3型电脑提花钩编机·········⋯⋯ (472)

二、COMEZ806/800型钩编机·····················⋯⋯ (475)

三、COMEZ MPR/3100型钩编机··················⋯⋯ (476)

第二节舌 针型钩编机·.........................................(477)

一、M138/1200型舌针钩编机···············”····⋯⋯ (477)

二、Decotex 138/244型舌针钩编机···············⋯⋯ (483)

三、Decotex JME型舌针钩编机·····················⋯⋯ (487)

四、GE701-800 X 6型钩编机························⋯⋯ (493)

五、COMEZ MJB/3C型提花钩编机···············⋯⋯ (496)

第三节管编机·.................................................. (497)

第四节钩编机织物疵点产生原因与消除方法·........... (501)

第十章 缝编机·······················(503)

第一节缝编机分类及缝编组织............................. (503)

一、缝编机分类····································。·····⋯⋯ (503)

二、缝编组织·············································⋯⋯ (503)

第二节纤网型缝编机·......................................... (508)

一、马利瓦特(Maliwatt)型缝编机···············⋯⋯ (508)

二、马利伏里斯(Malivlies)型缝编机············⋯⋯ (512)

第三节底布型缝编机·......................................... (514)

一、Z331型缝编机····································⋯⋯ (514)

二、马利波尔(Malipol)型缝编机···············⋯⋯ (520)

三、伏尔特克斯(Voltex)型缝编机···············⋯⋯ (523)

第四节纱线型缝编机·......................................... (525)

一、马利莫(Malimo)型缝编机··················⋯⋯ (525)

二、舒斯波尔(Schusspol)型、缝编机···············⋯⋯ (540)

三、利洛波尔(Li-opol)型毛圈缝编机············⋯⋯ (542)

第五节缝编织物疵点产生原因及消除方法·.............. (549)

第十一章经编生产辅助设备······························⋯⋯ (552)

第一节工艺用辅助设备·...................................... (552)

一、线圈长度测定仪···································⋯⋯ (552)

二、经纱张力仪··········································⋯⋯ (553)

三、硬度仪··········⋯⋯’，·····························⋯⋯ (553)

第二节维修用辅助设备·...................................... (554)

一、针块制造用设备····································⋯⋯ (554)

二、铸针专用设备·····································，·⋯⋯ (555)

三、链块倒角机···········································‘·⋯ (556)

第三节运转用辅助设备·············‘·················一⋯""" (558)

第十二章 经编生产条件和技术经济指标···············⋯⋯ (560)

第一节经编厂房要求“........................................ (560)

一、厂房地质条件·······································⋯⋯ (560)

二、对厂房的基本要求·································⋯⋯ (560)

(一)厂房高度的选用··········.·············⋯⋯”⋯ (560)

(二)柱网间距······································⋯⋯ (560)

(三)厂房的地面······················‘一··········⋯⋯ (561)

(A)厂房结构·······································⋯⋯ (561)

(五)门窗·····。·······································⋯⋯ (561)

(六)厂房墙壁······································⋯⋯ (561)

第二节经编设备的配套和排列·............................. (561)

一、经编设备的配套····································⋯⋯ (561)

二、机器排列·············································⋯⋯ (562)

(一)机器的基础尺寸······························⋯⋯ (563)

(二)排列基准尺寸·································⋯⋯ (578)

第三节经 编车间的生产条件·................................(579)

一、经编车间的温湿度·...................................... (579)

二、经编车间的照明····································⋯⋯ (580)

第四节经编产品产量·......................................... (580)

一、理论产量····················⋯⋯’，·················⋯⋯ (580)

(一)整经机的理论产童···························⋯⋯ (580)

(二)经编机的理论产量···························⋯⋯ (580)

二、生产效率·······································。·····⋯⋯ (582)

三、实际产量·············································⋯⋯ (583)

四、设备运转率。····················，······················一(583)

五、设备利用率···································，······⋯⋯ (584)

六、总产量·····················‘··························⋯⋯ (584)

七、经编机台数的确定·································⋯⋯ (584)

第五节经编生产消耗定额.................................... (584)

一、回丝率················································⋯⋯ (584)

二、机针消耗·············································⋯⋯ (585)

(一)经编机机针消耗····························⋯⋯‘·(585)

(二)整经机分纱针的消耗··························一(586)

第六节经编生产劳动定额.................................... (586)

第七节经编生产成本核算······························⋯⋯ (590)

一、经编产品成本的分类和内容·····················⋯⋯ (590)

二、产品成本计算·······································⋯⋯ (591)

+ P( h7 R0 a* D# [! }针织工程手册（人造毛皮分册），PDF。23M。
5 V6 [/ V0 D, `. s+ P

$ h$ h1 u: O6 d

目录

第一章 总述 19
第一节 人造毛皮商品技术规格及其用途 19
第二节 人造毛皮生产方法及其生产工艺流程 20
  一、纬编法生产工艺流程 20
   (一)毛条喂入法 20
   (二)毛纱割圈法 23
$ T" V3 q: k( ~' c  二、经编法生产工艺流程 23
8 u$ p# K/ h) \% R  三、缝编法生产工艺流程 24
5 H+ e7 z4 u7 t6 {第二章 主要原料、材料 25
- w# ]6 [' N# G. k* I- u, e: y* I 第一节 纤维 25
  一、纤维分类 25
  二、各种纤维的主要技术特征与特点 26
" j- G8 S6 O" T" o3 b   (一)天然纤维 26
   (二)再生纤维素纤维 28
* Z, _# m! W) [3 y% A   (三)合成纤维 30
- E% {9 P) R2 ^6 v) M# r   (四)特种纤维 37
' S8 F  {  J- w. x- k1 T1 z  三、几种常用纤维的主要技术性能 40
6 H- q! N3 R: _6 \: T$ p   (一)腈纶(聚丙烯腈纤维) 40
; |4 m. ?5 Q( I/ O3 o   (二)改性腈纶(丙烯腈/氯乙烯共聚物纤维) 42
9 G7 k$ G. W) C0 O* @   (三)涤纶(聚酯纤维) 49
   (四)丙纶(聚丙烯纤维) 51
) j  s5 t. M5 } 第二节 底纱与毛纱规格及其回潮率 52
# x6 M# i% X" N& y' N! `/ D) t; r; h7 W 第三节 涂层粘合剂与增稠剂 53
2 W# O  a$ d% B3 L  一、粘合剂的选用 53
6 a1 ~/ l1 C" R: a  @6 t+ [  二、粘合剂的分类 54
  三、几种常用粘合剂的主要特性 54
: j- u6 s2 ^+ @6 H   (一)合成树脂 54
   (二)橡胶类粘合剂 55
   (三)增稠剂 56
第三章 织物与毛绒基本组织 57
+ W( a8 s9 C( t) [6 f; v$ I- Z 第一节 人造毛皮基本组织 57
  一、毛条喂入法长毛绒组织 57
( B( ^. j8 e* x   (一)平针组织 57
   (二)花式组织 58
   (三)复合组织与衬垫组织 59
   (四)花式空针组织 60
   (五)变化平针组织 61
5 X; c- O. K- `  二、毛纱割圈法长毛绒组织 63
* h  b" r1 X! {- G! g' _3 [5 u   (一)“V”形组织 63
   (二)“W”形组织 64
7 f5 K: q( A: V% V4 B4 h# Q  三、经编法长毛绒组织 64
   (一)平纹组织 65
/ |0 U; e$ Z; ^   (二)花式组织 65
2 v3 @" p; p/ B- L9 U* G( x  四、缝编绒组织 68
   (一)地布缝合组织 68
! o* ?. X- {9 }. m: e   (二)纱线缝合组织 69
9 R) `3 V# _; N/ u: J) H   (三)纤维网缝合组织 69
+ g  A2 F% p0 p5 i! e' B. d 第二节 天然裘皮特征与人工仿效技术要素 69
' x7 O1 J4 j5 |" Y8 g  一、裘皮毛绒结构与特征 70
4 o) l* _' M6 g+ ^3 i$ E  二、裘皮毛被结构与组合分析 70
  三、兽毛截面形状 72
   (一)貂皮 72
   (二)狐狸皮 74
第三节 针织人造毛皮毛绒结构及其特征 74
  一、毛绒结构及其纤维截面形状 76
. v: r& {0 r- ^, D- O6 p  r   (一)毛绒组合要素 76
   (二)毛绒纤维截面形状 76
  二、毛绒组合纤维及其结构特征 77
   (一)仿貂皮产品 77
+ H: n1 D, g$ h4 E/ N   (二)仿狐狸皮产品 77
   (三)仿黄狼皮产品 77
/ f4 O% `6 F/ ^* V2 n   (四)仿羊羔皮产品 82
5 b. M  S* ?( A7 Q+ \第四章 毛条法长毛绒生产工艺与设备 83
7 V/ z" l( N/ v, p 第一节 主要生产工序及其条件 83
( L) N3 r, E; Y- r7 P' W 第二节 染色 84
  一、散纤维染色 84
, [$ u$ R0 {" j; `9 @+ P   (一)工艺流程 84
   (二)腈纶散纤维染色配方举例 84
' W3 q5 L, k3 c" m   (三)染色工艺 84
6 f7 l) d; d: }7 u( S+ ?  二、染色机 86
! o" @7 W8 v" h$ W$ [! X, [) k   (一)NC464B型染色机 86
/ J# [2 A+ U) a# U1 m) W* s   (二)1800H型整包染色机 87
   (三)1530N-KF型高温染色机 90
   (四)纤维包工序转换及其吊运 94
   (五)染色后纤维脱水 97
第三节 毛条制备 101
- `3 T# n. M$ E; `/ m; _  一、纤维铺层 101
  二、纤维混和与烘干 101
7 p; k+ s/ M, g/ h% t( ~   (一)R435型散毛喂给机 101
   (二)R456F-4型圆网烘干机 103
   (三)B261型和毛机 104
   (四)纤维加油与存储设备示例 106
第四节 梳毛 109
+ h! G1 W0 O" G+ j" N  一、毛纺工艺路线设备组合 109
   (一)TATHAM-AF7D型配毛箱 111
% ~6 }& a9 y2 `. h" T   (二)TEMAFA型喂毛箱 113
  二、梳毛机 114
   (一)人造毛皮用梳毛机 114
- ?  m7 x) q2 P8 o   (二)TATHAM型(FN271型)梳毛机 116
   (三)B272A型梳毛机及其特点 117
   (四)毛条压缩机 118
3 ^, k. v1 J) x8 R* P7 ~8 }   (五)梳毛机梳理元件的规格与型号 121
/ Z. m/ y# r% r+ Q0 S; `) _ 第五节 棉纺清钢联工艺 125
  一、棉纺路线清纲联工艺流程与设备组合 125
  二、清钢联自控程序及其电气线路 125
: o! E3 H0 A  o  三、A006B型、A077型、A065型混棉、开棉机 125
   (一)主要技术特征 125
   (二)传动原理 129
) m7 \. c  g6 m7 r1 N3 s  四、A177型喂棉机、A186型梳棉机、A272型并条机 130
   (一)主要技术特征 131
: [4 Q; A. h2 N8 ^% j2 L   (二)传动原理 133
! L( O5 L& E( j. G3 p9 f   (三)A272型并条机总牵伸倍数与变换齿轮的关系 134
第六节 坯布织造 136
  一、底纱准备 136
  Q) X# z3 X0 s( y/ K   (一)络筒工艺参数 137
   (二)络筒机 137
  二、花型制备 138
   (一)概述 138
   (二)MK系列花型制备系统 140
   (三)HP系列花型制备系统 143
  三、MK系列人造毛皮机 144
! E$ [2 }8 S) ]   (一)机器主要技术特征 144
6 ^: q, i9 C9 Y2 l$ `2 ~% e   (二)底布成圈与纤维喂入 145
   (三)成圈机构 149
   (四)MK系列梳理机构 157
   (五)MK系列毛皮机的传动原理 169
1 j! r& S) `, x+ V/ }) x! r   (六)积极输纱机构 169
3 F, a, c: t+ N# I8 j' N! ~   (七)牵拉与卷取机构 169
& b4 t- d1 |, \/ b" P   (八)MK系列人造毛皮机的附属设备 169
   (九)MK系列人造毛皮机的润滑与加油 174
, t: e/ U8 R9 N; l1 N9 n   (十)机器故障排除、坯布疵点产生原因及消除方法 175
  四、HP系列人造毛皮机 178
8 _7 [; x! |+ M* |7 C% [( W   (一)机器主要技术特征 178
5 n8 m, X! V; g* E, `; y   (二)织针与沉降片的配合与动作 179
   (三)电子选针机构及其动作 187
   (四)成圈元件 188
   (五)HP系列梳理机构 193
# n9 ~' n' D" Q  y- _. G# w   (六)输纱机构 198
   (七)牵拉卷取机构 199
   (八)附属设备 200
   (九)HP系列人造毛皮机的润滑与加油 201
   (十)机器故障排除、坯布疵点产生原因及消除方法 201
, l; j% ?( v& O; A+ V% u  M8 ?+ z  五、KPN-16型人造毛皮机 205
   (一)外形特征 205
7 _! e' D! ]: f( I3 c  s" ^! q   (二)主要技术特征 205
   (三)成圈机构 207
   (四)KPN型梳理机构 209
   (五)传动原理 210
8 ~4 h; c$ t$ t: I( c$ y5 ?  六、Z261型人造毛皮机 212
2 W0 ?$ U$ c0 W1 }) u) ?   (一)主要技术特征 212
   (二)传动原理 212
   (三)成圈机构 212
) F. a! H/ ]$ r% _   (四)梳理机构 215
   (五)牵拉卷取机构 217
4 V: Q6 G& F0 n( a7 y7 O( d   (六)成圈元件 217
8 P" m( ]- U# E# G% k, H  七、GE141型人造毛皮机 217
8 D. s8 z( z$ l   (一)主要技术特征 219
   (二)传动原理 220
   (三)成圈机构 220
   (四)梳理机构 227
   (五)牵拉卷取机构 228
   (六)输纱机构 228
7 z1 n7 O8 q, s1 y* A   (七)润滑与加油 228
  c/ e& d2 u5 ~; k$ z# ~   (八)控制线路 230
2 j1 X* l6 x8 b  f/ o& M# \ 第七节 成品整理 230
0 R: f2 l( x8 Z! G/ O7 O  一、整理加工过程中的纤维效应 230
  二、整理工艺流程 230
  三、赫格(HEINZ HERGERT)系列后整理设备及其性能 230
9 H+ b$ D/ y' N" y  J   (一)机器配套与组合方案 230
   (二)PRM/GF-1800型单刀剪毛机 232
' g: Z5 W1 {1 k" O5 o3 _& N   (三)烫光机 240
   (四)PRS/GF型烫剪联合机 243
   (五)悬挂式导布架 246
   (六)CAF·C/74型自动量卷机 248
  四、康迈特(COMET)系列后整理设备及其性能 253
   (一)机器配套与组合方案的推荐 254
% m9 ~3 s) D, z6 v6 O6 ]& {   (二)AR/70C型花式剪毛机 254
   (三)TS/2001型单刀剪毛机 258
   (四)PRA/83型烫光机 261
; [: ?" |- S3 J, `* {   (五)128C型烫剪联合机 263
- X; U+ i2 \5 T/ F   (六)G/80型压花机 264
8 ^5 E0 d+ U- y! v- I  五、锡斯狄克(SISTIG)系列后整理机器及其性能 265
2 g- f& I7 C5 v  M' _! _/ h   (一)机器配套与组合方案推荐 265
5 K; V) V: G7 C   (二)ZRM2/2.0型刷毛机 267
   (三)FMSH1/2.0型烫剪联合机 268
   (四)FPM200型单辊烫光机 271
6 [* U; |& w7 e/ J. b' y7 x   (五)MSH1/2.0型单刀剪毛机 271
- _/ z3 f  A# b5 }, G6 ?5 \; }% F  六、涂胶与定形 276
   (一)布鲁克纳(BRUCKNER)系列(蒸汽)涂胶定形机 276
   (二)马歇尔-威理姆(Marshall-Williams)1800型涂胶定形机 283
$ q5 A6 k) v6 S& F) M  七、滚球机 287
   (一)气流循环及其成球 289
5 k: J$ Z* }$ i" U( h   (二)主要技术特征 289
  八、整理过程中产品疵点产生原因与消除方法 293
. h* M# K, a& C* t+ @; o4 a第五章 毛纱法长毛绒生产工艺与设备 294
第一节 毛纱法长毛绒产品的特点及其分类 294
6 S) F& B$ d  J) V4 }: z( }! r  一、毛纱与底纱线圈的特征 294
  二、织物质量的设定 294
) `3 M& Y" j& {5 ^2 e& G4 z* {  三、产品分类 295
* [% w% N- A3 W* V- M9 W9 o6 V- Q7 d$ w 第二节 绞纱染色 296
  一、染色设备及其性能 296
   (一)绞纱染色机 296
   (二)绞纱染色机的主要技术特征 297
" H* c: \  D# V0 q  I+ _  二、染色工艺 298
   (一)工艺参数 298
   (二)膨化(显体)工艺 299
   (三)常用助剂及其主要性能 299
( p$ e, r! E- m2 n6 Q! F: n3 L   (四)脱水与烘干 300
   (五)典型工艺举例 300
   (六)绞纱染色疵点的产生原因及消除方法 301
! _+ D: i+ y2 d, V1 W+ ?0 K 第三节 坯布织造 303
6 ?' i) C) {# g. n0 i, F2 k7 g  一、织物组织形式 303
6 Y. ]8 ?) v# H& R4 i0 V; ?  二、DKP型长毛绒针织机 303
   (一)机器特征 303
   (二)成圈与割圈机构 306
   (三)成圈元件(以DKP型为例) 308
   (四)坯布疵点产生原因及消除方法 312
第四节 成品整理 312
  一、整理加工过程中的纤维效应 312
  二、工艺流程 312
  三、毛纱法长毛绒整理设备的选型及其工艺要求 313
   (一)刷毛喂入方向及其主要工艺参数 314
# l* Q: o: O! Y" @# a  K   (二)烫光温度及其喂入方向 315
6 g8 b" m! C. M0 `+ D5 f第六章 经编法长毛绒生产工艺与设备 317
第一节 坯布织造 317
  一、花纹设计 317
   (一)双针床经编织物的图示方法 317
' L7 E3 H( p0 J% \) H   (二)双针床经编织物的结构 318
   (三)工艺设计 319
$ \  g2 n  x) U' k4 t; z   (四)花纹制作 329
  二、HDR6DPLM/60型双针床拉舍尔经编机 331
   (一)概述 331
   (二)成圈机构 333
   (三)编花装置 347
   (四)牵拉与卷取 352
% ]5 [; a1 ~( r   (五)润滑部位 355
   (六)上机条件及主要工艺参数 357
   (七)产品疵点产生原因及消除方法 362
  三、PSM型割绒机 364
7 [4 x" n& ?" e. H+ L   (一)割绒机简介 364
   (二)割绒机的主要技术特征 364
" W( {2 G. e! b# x% m& q  `& \   (三)割绒机的操作标准 365
7 d6 L* ~! I6 _7 W: H. a; w 第二节 成品整理 368
  一、生产设备组合形式 368
" u- l6 o7 @, [. r/ @   二、生产工艺流程 368
   (一)色织 368
   (二)印花 368
   (三)匹染 368
- x8 t- }( ~% Q8 E- K' U% g  三、印花 369
) }  R# O0 L7 K$ V0 L7 j   (一)印花设备 369
8 ~5 l9 [9 V  c* S0 o* w   (二)上机条件及主要工艺参数 370
& ]4 W* i9 [& k% W7 {  四、匹染 373
   (一)设备 373
   (二)上机条件及主要工艺参数 374
( v% g  T& l0 ?* E6 I8 f3 s  五、刷花 375
  六、热定形 375
   (一)滚筒定形机 375
   (二)上机条件及主要工艺参数 376
9 U; v9 T9 z. h1 f4 I3 h& }* V第七章 缝编绒生产及其设备 377
" x* N; V1 K6 [* m' s 第一节 生产与设备概况 377
1 h+ s- k3 n0 I4 t5 x' h9 N 第二节 缝编绒生产及其设备组合 377
  一、加工方法 377
  二、生产设备组合 378
7 ^% ]' M$ V4 I+ J! c% V  三、缝编绒织物的主要技术参数 378
5 T, s5 m( a' ?4 ]; T/ }) f  四、成网工艺 378
8 l; p/ D: g8 d: J) V; Z. B   (一)纤维的选择 380
. {9 F3 r! K4 s4 j: o7 O   (二)纤网定量 380
   (三)梳理机与缝编机的工作宽度 380
   (四)梳理机 380
& {# ]5 s$ w8 j$ _. G 第三节 缝编绒生产 381
  一、缝编机的主要技术特征 381
( t! ^, C; B0 B  二、缝编绒的编织 381
: o# u; z5 L5 C" @- j  三、生产工艺参数 382
第四节 成品整理 384
  一、工艺流程 384
  二、抓剪机 384
  三、主要工艺参数 385
6 ^2 Q$ \; A- n9 M第八章 主要经济技术指标参考 387
第一节 工艺设计 387
  一、织物规格及原料成分 387
  二、织物含毛量及含纱量计算 387
" ~  e/ q( }3 s# r 第二节 生产条件及其环境保护 392
  一、生产条件 392
' E" k4 d: r% M7 [" V  二、环境保护 394
第三节 劳动定额 395
8 F0 O+ V' M# g; z: `3 i  一、生产工人劳动定额 395
  二、辅助生产工人劳动定额 396
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