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[针织] 针织工程手册,宗平生、许期颐,PDF

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发表于 2015-11-9 20:33:43 | 显示全部楼层 |阅读模式
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针织工程手册,宗平生、许期颐,PDF。22M
促织网-纺织知识网-针织工程手册,宗平生、许期颐,PDF.png

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内容提要
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本分册是《针织工程手册》中的经编分册。
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本分册介绍了经编生产中所需要的各种设备、工艺数据、计算公式,其中包括经编组织,经编产品品种,经编针织物的结构参数及产品设计;国产及引进的各类整经机、经编机(高速、多梳、贾卡、双针床经编机及钩编机、缝编机和管编机)和附属设备的主要特征、主要机件的规格及织物疵点的产生原因和消除方法等内容。同时对经编生产消耗定额及主要技术经济指标也作了介绍。
本书可供针织工业的工程技术人员,大、中专院校师生,企业管理干部和工人查阅参考。# g& r: C6 m. N+ u& x  L& O
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编者的话" b( d( g3 I/ u: u
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经编工程是纺织和针织工程中的重要领域,经编织物在服用、装饰织物方面有广泛应用,近年来,在产业用布,特别是高科技、高强轻质复合材料方面开始有相当应用,为世所瞩目。本书内容已包括了能收集到的材料,尽可能以数据、表格形式出现,以方便广大经编工程技术人员和设计人员查阅,供各方面参考,希望能成为经编行业的有效工具书。
本分册:主编:宗平生许期颐
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) z6 _% z) j; n9 x: C$ m$ Y# U5 N编写分工如下:第一章由宗平生编写,第二章由金玉燕编写,第三章由华任、盛慧萍编写,第四章由毕亚新、倪志平编写,第五章由倪志平、周孝文、蒋高明、宗平生、周保仁编写,第六章由徐金林、吴国荣编写,第七章由孙镇发、王道兴、许期颐、许万举编写,第八章由吴国荣、陈严、邱红娟、尹季盛编写,第九章由杨玉丰、陈东林、杜刚伟、蔡建英编写,第十章由胡美漩、蒋高明编写,第十一章由王道兴、周孝文编写,第十二章由许期颐编写。% x& R8 a7 A# L! A) T
由于编者的水平有限,缺点、错误在所难免,恳请读者批评指正。1 }9 S; I7 |% J. p1 q  r7 ]4 ^

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《针织工程手册·经编分册》编写组
1995年5月
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 楼主| 发表于 2015-11-9 20:51:24 | 显示全部楼层

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目录
第一章 总述........................................................... (1)
第一节经编机的分类及代号·................................... (1)
一、经编机的分类⋯································⋯⋯ (1)
二、经编机的代号··········································⋯⋯ (1)
()国产经编机的代号··········.··············⋯⋯ (3)
()卡尔·迈邓(KarlMayer)公司经编机的代号··························( 3)
()利巴(LIBA)公司经编机的代号“·······⋯⋯ (5)
()特克斯梯玛(Textima)公司经编机的代号⋯ (6)
第二节经编机的机号和使用原料·............................. (7)
一、经编机的机号··········································⋯⋯ (7)
二、经编机可加工纱线的最大线密度···············⋯⋯ (8)
三、经编原料·······································。········⋯⋯ (8)
第三节经编针织物组织·......................................... (9)
一、经编针织物组织的表示方法························⋯⋯ (9)
()图示法·············································⋯⋯ (9)
()数码法······················月···················⋯⋯ (1)0
二、经编针织物的基本组织···························⋯⋯ (10)
()单针床墓本组织······························⋯⋯ (10)
()双针床基本组织····························⋯ (11)
三、经编针织物的变化组织···························⋯⋯ (13)
()经绒组织·····································⋯⋯ (13)
()经料组织····························一。·。····⋯⋯ (13)
()变化经编组织····”···························⋯⋯ (13)
()变化重经组织·································⋯⋯ (13)
四、经编针织物的花色组织···························⋯⋯ (14)
()~四梳经编组织⋯。·······················⋯⋯ (14)
()空穿经编组织·································⋯⋯ (15)
()缺垫经编组织·································⋯⋯ (18)
()衬纬经编组织······························“·⋯⋯ (20)
()压纱经编组织·································⋯⋯ (24)
()缺压经编组织·····。···························⋯⋯ (25)
()多梳经编组织································⋯⋯ (28)
()贾卡提花经编组织···················.······⋯⋯ (28)
()双针床花色经编组织························⋯⋯ (30)
()毛圈经编组织·····························。···⋯⋯ (34)
(十一)不均匀经编组织···························⋯⋯ (36)
第二章经编产品·····································.·····⋯⋯ (37)
第一节服 用经编产品·······························。·“··一(37)
一、外衣类··············。············。····················⋯⋯ (37)
()网眼花纹布····································⋯⋯ (37)
()带枝方格色织布·························,······。⋯ (37)
()涤纶褶裥布····················~·············⋯⋯ (38)
()锦、涤交织小方格起绒布···············⋯⋯ (39)
()经编毛圈布····································⋯⋯ (40)
二、衬衫类·····················~························⋯⋯ (41)
()锦、涤交织布·······················.········⋯⋯ (41)
()涤纶小网眼布···⋯⋯,·⋯⋯”·············⋯⋯ (41)
()薄型网眼衬衫布··············,···············⋯⋯ (42)
()横条纹半网眼衬衫布···,·················.⋯⋯ (43)
三、内衣类·····。·········································⋯⋯ (43)
()妇女内衣料之一······················⋯⋯ (43)
()妇女内衣料之二·····························⋯⋯ (44)
()便服、睡衣料·······················⋯⋯ (44)
四、运动衣类·...................... .... ......... ... . (45)
()氨纶有光平布·································⋯⋯ (45)
()闪光拉毛布····································⋯⋯ (45)
()双面布·····································⋯⋯ (46)
五、其它························⋯ ”·········⋯⋯ (46)
()六角网眼长筒女袜·········⋯⋯,·········⋯⋯ (46)
()彩条童袜····························.·······⋯⋯ (48)
()提花连裤袜、提花长筒袜、提花手套···⋯⋯ (49)
()鞋面料··········································⋯⋯ (49)
()遮阳帽布·······································⋯⋯ (50)
()头巾布····························⋯·⋯⋯ (51)
第二节装饰用经编产品···················⋯⋯·····(51)
一、帘帷类·······························⋯‘·········⋯⋯ (51)
()刷花绒窗帘布·······························⋯⋯ (51)
()大提花窗帘布·································⋯⋯ (52)
二、床上用品类··········································⋯⋯ (53)
()素色纹帐·································⋯⋯ (53)
()提花纹帐·⋯⋯,·······················,······⋯⋯ (53)
()提花床革····································⋯⋯ (54)
()拉舍尔毛毯···········.·······⋯⋯ (54)
三、家具面料类···························-···········⋯⋯ (5)5
()双针床经编绒类织物之一··············⋯⋯ (55)
()双针床经编绒类织抽之二··················⋯⋯ (57)
()拉绒织物···············“·········⋯⋯”’,··⋯⋯ (57)
四、地毯类⋯”······。·························,·········⋯⋯ (58)
()素色绒面地毯·································⋯⋯ (58)
()花色绒面地毯············,···。···············⋯⋯ (59)
()素色珠面地毯·································⋯⋯ (60)
五、花边类························。···················⋯⋯ (61)
()弹性月牙边带·......................................(61)
()服饰花边······················⋯⋯‘··········⋯⋯ (61)
第三节产业用经编产品·...................................... (64)
一、产业用网类·............................................... (64)
()六梳养殖网(渔网)························⋯⋯ (64)
()八梳圆网(渔网)····················⋯⋯”·· (65)
()卫生用网·····。·································⋯⋯ (66)
()水果包装袋···········。···············,········⋯⋯ (67)
二、医疗用品类。·····························。···,·······⋯⋯ (68)
()头发移植用织物····················.········⋯⋯ (68)
()外科用修补材料································一(68)
三、骨架材料类···········。··········,······,···········,⋯⋯ (69)
()涂层材料底布·····························,···⋯⋯ (69)
()航空、船泊等构件材料·····················⋯⋯ (69)
四、其它·······································。⋯ (70)
()工业用传送带·································⋯⋯ (70)
()工业用过滤布·································⋯⋯ (71)
()涂层遮篷布························。···········⋯⋯ (72)
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 楼主| 发表于 2015-11-9 20:53:52 | 显示全部楼层

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第三章 经编工艺设计·...............................:............ (73)
第一节经编针织物的结构参数·............................. (73)
一、送经比·····,········································⋯⋯ (73)
二、线圈长度·······································⋯⋯ (75)
第二节原料、纱线线密度和机号的选用····.............. (77)
第三节经编织物规格·......................................... (79)
一、平方米克重.·································⋯⋯ (79)
二、密度··········································(79)
三、织物幅宽·············································⋯⋯ (81)
四、整经根数······················。······················⋯⋯ (81)
五、用纱比·········································⋯⋯ (82)
六、坯布匹重和匹长····································⋯⋯ (84)
七、整经长度············································⋯⋯ (85)
第四节上机和工艺设计表·................................... (85)
一、上机············································(85)
()整经机的工艺上机···························⋯⋯ (85)
()经编机的工艺上机···························⋯⋯ (90)
二、工艺设计表··········································⋯⋯ (90)
第五节工艺设计举例·......................................... (93)
例一·······································⋯⋯‘···········⋯⋯ (93)
()工艺设计及计算······························⋯⋯ (93)
()上机·············································⋯⋯ (94)
例二··············································(95)
()工艺设计及计茸······························⋯⋯ (95)
()上机···················.························⋯⋯ (97)
例三······································· (98)
()工艺设计及计算······························⋯⋯ (98)
()上机···················.·····················⋯⋯、二(99)
第四章整经机········································· (101)
第一节整经要求和纱线前处理························⋯⋯ (101)
一、经纱整经张力····································· (101)
二、整经纱线油剂······································ (104)
三、经编纱线前处理方法·····························⋯⋯ (105)
四、整经要求·········································· (105)
第二节分段整经机............................................ (106)
一、GE201型整经机·································⋯⋯ (106)
二、DSC型整经机····································⋯⋯ (113)
三、23型整经机·······································⋯⋯ (117)
四、4142型整经机····································⋯⋯ (119)
五、HDSM型花经轴整经机························⋯⋯ (123)
六、弹性纱线整经机····································⋯⋯ (125)
七、牵伸整经机··········。·····························⋯⋯ (126)
八、整经疵点产生原因和消除方法··················⋯⋯ (130)
第三节经轴··············································⋯⋯ (132)
一、经轴规格·············································”·⋯ (132)
二、经轴上纱线的长度和重量························⋯⋯ (133)
第五章高速经编机··········································⋯⋯ (136)
第一节普通槽针型·............................................ (136)
一、KS系列经编机····································⋯⋯ (136)
二、COPCENTRA系列经编机·‘···················⋯⋯ (161)
三、KOKETT U系列经编机·······················⋯⋯ (174)
四、GE271型经编机·································⋯⋯ (194)
五、Z304型经编机····································⋯⋯ (195)
第二节普通钩针型- Z303C型、Z303B-3型经编机·····················(2 00 )
第三节毛圈型经编机·......................................... (210)
一、KS4FBZ型毛圈经编机···························⋯⋯ (210)
二、COPCENTRA-POL型毛圈经编机·········⋯⋯ (213)
三、GE273M型毛圈经编机·······················⋯⋯ (214)
四、COP 3 HS POL型利纬毛圈经编机············⋯⋯ (215)
第四节电脑毛圈经编机·...................................... (216)
第五节电脑提花经编机·..................................... (235)
第六节其它专用高速经编机·................................ (242)
一、弹性织物高速经编机······························⋯⋯ (242)
二、全幅衬纬高速经编机·····························,·,,⋯ (242)
三、SWAN WARP型经编机··············,·········⋯⋯ (244)
四、带花压板的钩针型高速经编机··················⋯⋯ (245)
五、双针床钩针型高速经编机(SIMPLEX) ⋯⋯ (246)
第七节高速经编机织物疵点产生原因和消除方法⋯""" (248)
一、漏针··············.···································⋯⋯ (248)
二、吊针(集圈)·······································⋯⋯ (248)
三、断纱····················································。⋯ (249)
四、横条·················································⋯⋯ (250)
五、纵向条纹·············································⋯⋯ (250)
六、坏针........................................................ (250)
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 楼主| 发表于 2015-11-9 20:55:26 | 显示全部楼层

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第六章 多梳型拉舍尔经编机·...................................(252)
第一节多梳型拉舍尔经编机的工作原理和地组织⋯""" (252)
第二节多梳型拉舍尔经编机的花型设汁及上机·........ (254)
第三节普通多梳型拉舍尔经编机·.......................... (258)
一、渔网型多梳拉舍尔经编机。·······················⋯⋯ (258)
()Z508F型无结渔网机························⋯⋯ (258)
()SGE238型经编无结织1J机···············⋯⋯ (260)
()RF8, RSF8型拉舍尔经编机············⋯⋯ (261)
()G508F, G509F型拉舍尔经编机·········⋯⋯ (262)
二、通用型拉舍尔经编机··················,···········⋯⋯ (263)
()GE231-75 X 9型拉舍尔经编机’,··. ⋯,二(263)
()G506, G513-G517型拉舍尔经编机···⋯⋯ (266)
三、高速型拉舍尔经编机·”··,····················⋯⋯,⋯ (269)
()RS来列拉舍尔经编机·..........................(269)
()RACOP 0型系列拉舍尔经编机·········⋯⋯ (272)
()RACOP TP系列拉舍尔经编机·········⋯⋯ (275)
第四节花边和窗帘用多梳型拉舍尔经编机·.............. (277)
一、MRS30, MRS42型拉舍尔经编机············⋯⋯ (277)
二、MRSS32型拉舍尔经编机························⋯⋯ (281)
第五节压纱板多梳型MRGSF 31/16型拉舍尔经编机······················ (2 89 )
第六节全幅衬纬型拉舍尔经编机·.......................... (295)
一、RS4MSU, RS4-10MSW-Nu型经编机···⋯⋯ (295)
二、多轴向衬纬型经编机······························⋯⋯ (297)
三、经纬纱并纤维网衬入型经编机··················⋯⋯ (300)
第七节多梳型经编机的润滑条件及疵点消除·........... (303)
一、润滑条件·············································⋯⋯ (303)
二、织物疵点产生原因和消除方法··············⋯⋯: (303)
第七章 贾卡型拉舍尔经编机······························⋯⋯ (305)
第一节贾卡型拉舍尔经编机的工作原理和地组织⋯""" (305)
一、贾卡型拉舍尔经编机的工作原理.············⋯⋯ (305)
二、贾卡型拉舍尔经编机的地组织··················⋯⋯ (310)
第二节贾卡装置............................................... (314)
一、贾卡装置的技术特征······························⋯⋯ (314)
二、贾卡装置的调整····································⋯⋯ (315)
第三节贾卡型拉舍尔经编机的花型设计与上机........ (321)
一、花型设计·························⋯⋯·········⋯⋯ (321)
二、花型与上机·····································⋯⋯ (335)
第四节贾卡型拉舍尔经编机纹板的制备·................. (341)
一、纹板的种类··········································⋯⋯ (341)
二、纹板的轧制············.····························⋯⋯ (344)
三、纹板轧孔设备·······································⋯⋯ (350)
第五节普通型贾卡拉舍尔经编机·.......................... (354)
一、GE246-4/1, 4/2型贾卡拉舍尔经编机···⋯⋯ (354)
二、ETJ4/1, ESTJ4/1-7/14型贾卡拉舍尔经编机····························(358 )
三、RJ4/1型贾卡拉舍尔经编机·····················⋯⋯ (361)
第六节毛圈型贾卡拉舍尔经编机·.......................... (363)
第七节压纱板型贾卡提花经编机·.......................... (374)
一、ZJG-5F型贾卡提花经编机··················⋯⋯ (374)
二、RJG5F-NE型贾卡提花经编机···········。···⋯⋯ (375)
三、GE241'Y-5/1型贾卡提花经编机············⋯⋯ (378)
四、RJG5/2F-NE型贾卡提花经编机············⋯⋯ (380)
第八节MRSSJ 78/1 SU型多梳型经编机·········⋯⋯ (382)
第九节贾 卡型拉舍尔经编机织物疵点的产生原因和消除方法··············(384 )
第八章 双针床型拉舍尔经编机·······················(392)
第一节双针床型拉舍尔经编机的工作原理·.............. (392)
第二节普通型双针床拉舍尔经编机...................... (394)
一、GE282型双针床经编机·····⋯⋯···········⋯⋯ (394)
二、DR8E型双针床经编机···························⋯⋯ (395)
第三节短绒型双针床拉舍尔经编机··················⋯⋯ (401)
一、RD6DPLMRD7DPLM EBC型双针床经编机················(4 01 )
二、DG506DPLM型双针床经编机··················⋯⋯ (410)
三、GE286型双针床经编机························⋯⋯ (414)
四、润滑条件········································· (417)
第四节长绒型双针床拉舍尔经编机·....................... (417)
一、HDR6DPLM/60型双针床经编机············⋯⋯ (417)
二、GE283型双针床经编机························⋯⋯ (451)
第五节毛圈型双针床拉舍尔经编机·....................... (453)
一、HDR5PLS型双针床经编机·······················⋯ (453)
二、HDRJ5/2PLM 型双针床经编机···············⋯⋯ (454)
第六节包装袋型双针床拉舍尔经编机·.................... (456)
第七节圆筒织物型双针床拉舍尔经编机·................. (458)
一、三角裤机········································ (458)
二、HDRJ6/2-NE-EEW-ST型双针床经编机⋯ (459)
第八节 双针床型拉舍尔经编机织物疵点产生原因和消除方法············· ( 469)
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第九章 钩编机和管编机·.........................................(472)
第一节偏钩针型钩编机·.........··。. ... ...................... (472)
一、GE711-360 X 3型电脑提花钩编机·········⋯⋯ (472)
二、COMEZ806/800型钩编机·····················⋯⋯ (475)
三、COMEZ MPR/3100型钩编机··················⋯⋯ (476)
第二节舌 针型钩编机·.........................................(477)
一、M138/1200型舌针钩编机···············”····⋯⋯ (477)
二、Decotex 138/244型舌针钩编机···············⋯⋯ (483)
三、Decotex JME型舌针钩编机·····················⋯⋯ (487)
四、GE701-800 X 6型钩编机························⋯⋯ (493)
五、COMEZ MJB/3C型提花钩编机···············⋯⋯ (496)
第三节管编机·.................................................. (497)
第四节钩编机织物疵点产生原因与消除方法·........... (501)
第十章 缝编机·······················(503)
第一节缝编机分类及缝编组织............................. (503)
一、缝编机分类····································。·····⋯⋯ (503)
二、缝编组织·············································⋯⋯ (503)
第二节纤网型缝编机·......................................... (508)
一、马利瓦特(Maliwatt)型缝编机···············⋯⋯ (508)
二、马利伏里斯(Malivlies)型缝编机············⋯⋯ (512)
第三节底布型缝编机·......................................... (514)
一、Z331型缝编机····································⋯⋯ (514)
二、马利波尔(Malipol)型缝编机···············⋯⋯ (520)
三、伏尔特克斯(Voltex)型缝编机···············⋯⋯ (523)
第四节纱线型缝编机·......................................... (525)
一、马利莫(Malimo)型缝编机··················⋯⋯ (525)
二、舒斯波尔(Schusspol)型、缝编机···············⋯⋯ (540)
三、利洛波尔(Li-opol)型毛圈缝编机············⋯⋯ (542)
第五节缝编织物疵点产生原因及消除方法·.............. (549)
第十一章经编生产辅助设备······························⋯⋯ (552)
第一节工艺用辅助设备·...................................... (552)
一、线圈长度测定仪···································⋯⋯ (552)
二、经纱张力仪··········································⋯⋯ (553)
三、硬度仪··········⋯⋯,·····························⋯⋯ (553)
第二节维修用辅助设备·...................................... (554)
一、针块制造用设备····································⋯⋯ (554)
二、铸针专用设备·····································,·⋯⋯ (555)
三、链块倒角机···········································‘·⋯ (556)
第三节运转用辅助设备·············‘·················一⋯""" (558)
第十二章 经编生产条件和技术经济指标···············⋯⋯ (560)
第一节经编厂房要求“........................................ (560)
一、厂房地质条件·······································⋯⋯ (560)
二、对厂房的基本要求·································⋯⋯ (560)
()厂房高度的选用··········.·············⋯⋯ (560)
()柱网间距······································⋯⋯ (560)
()厂房的地面······················‘一··········⋯⋯ (561)
(A)厂房结构·······································⋯⋯ (561)
()门窗·····。·······································⋯⋯ (561)
()厂房墙壁······································⋯⋯ (561)
第二节经编设备的配套和排列·............................. (561)
一、经编设备的配套····································⋯⋯ (561)
二、机器排列·············································⋯⋯ (562)
()机器的基础尺寸······························⋯⋯ (563)
()排列基准尺寸·································⋯⋯ (578)
第三节经 编车间的生产条件·................................(579)
一、经编车间的温湿度·...................................... (579)
二、经编车间的照明····································⋯⋯ (580)
第四节经编产品产量·......................................... (580)
一、理论产量····················⋯⋯,·················⋯⋯ (580)
()整经机的理论产童···························⋯⋯ (580)
()经编机的理论产量···························⋯⋯ (580)
二、生产效率·······································。·····⋯⋯ (582)
三、实际产量·············································⋯⋯ (583)
四、设备运转率。····················,······················一(583)
五、设备利用率···································,······⋯⋯ (584)
六、总产量·····················‘··························⋯⋯ (584)
七、经编机台数的确定·································⋯⋯ (584)
第五节经编生产消耗定额.................................... (584)
一、回丝率················································⋯⋯ (584)
二、机针消耗·············································⋯⋯ (585)
()经编机机针消耗····························⋯⋯‘·(585)
()整经机分纱针的消耗··························一(586)
第六节经编生产劳动定额.................................... (586)
第七节经编生产成本核算······························⋯⋯ (590)
一、经编产品成本的分类和内容·····················⋯⋯ (590)
二、产品成本计算·······································⋯⋯ (591)
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 楼主| 发表于 2015-11-10 20:14:48 | 显示全部楼层
本帖最后由 拉拉扯扯 于 2015-11-10 20:16 编辑
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针织工程手册(人造毛皮分册),PDF。23M$ Y2 N+ {- G* x( S  \6 `: h  S
促织网-纺织知识网-针织工程手册(人造毛皮分册).jpg

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目录
第一章 总述 19) z+ V' w: F0 a, D' u
第一节 人造毛皮商品技术规格及其用途 19
8 T1 S* Y$ o% V( D/ o6 B 第二节 人造毛皮生产方法及其生产工艺流程 20
9 k; M6 J( V& r& z  一、纬编法生产工艺流程 20- I6 l9 u+ X% j$ X+ F( |: p0 R- z
   (一)毛条喂入法 205 L4 g/ ^, U6 o* \/ z4 G
   (二)毛纱割圈法 23' N: U! h& C6 o. J$ g" t6 w* B2 q
  二、经编法生产工艺流程 23
) u6 @& }) U) \, C% M7 m& d6 I  三、缝编法生产工艺流程 24( B9 E, K+ e! v4 s$ [* t$ y! {3 y
第二章 主要原料、材料 259 @% j% k3 _4 y7 ^, U
第一节 纤维 25
9 m- i: d/ p3 d& T* g0 C/ `* A  一、纤维分类 25
2 b" }  ^  K  D" a; ~( z1 @  二、各种纤维的主要技术特征与特点 26
; X$ Z* O) @/ o- e. h1 s% A/ ^5 m   (一)天然纤维 26+ h. z9 M$ X$ G9 B, L3 d: W) I
   (二)再生纤维素纤维 28
: g9 M: h( F/ }% Z+ X   (三)合成纤维 30" y6 {. Z8 e( C' A8 e+ [0 b
   (四)特种纤维 37
% j/ a" k4 c, H" E' B/ l  三、几种常用纤维的主要技术性能 40, E  O: E3 a1 |' E  @$ v
   (一)腈纶(聚丙烯腈纤维) 404 j$ e7 \+ q5 k* b
   (二)改性腈纶(丙烯腈/氯乙烯共聚物纤维) 42
4 G  _5 X2 y6 o$ p7 ?7 m   (三)涤纶(聚酯纤维) 49
- S4 f2 K' t; C( Q6 C: E3 t$ x' O) d   (四)丙纶(聚丙烯纤维) 51
2 c9 y6 L* m5 w4 R6 q 第二节 底纱与毛纱规格及其回潮率 52
' _$ P$ A3 g' @+ ^8 s4 d; I 第三节 涂层粘合剂与增稠剂 53
7 U; A* X' D* f4 Z: q  l# K! w  一、粘合剂的选用 53
9 l9 E* S2 K3 C6 R, o1 e$ P  二、粘合剂的分类 54
& l' [+ b% a6 H) K$ a  三、几种常用粘合剂的主要特性 542 m2 u; V# C8 F, T, g7 u
   (一)合成树脂 54/ \  `5 q0 I1 }# r
   (二)橡胶类粘合剂 55( i- c* ?. w5 Y- J' |
   (三)增稠剂 56% Q! p& S- T# Q9 Q  Q/ r5 ]) b3 Q, X6 r9 w
第三章 织物与毛绒基本组织 57) F7 p. W) g% s: y) a: v1 a
第一节 人造毛皮基本组织 57+ B2 `& ]" H9 [& W" D, Q8 r
  一、毛条喂入法长毛绒组织 57
  k% m* u7 u1 @; u. h4 v   (一)平针组织 57& _! H" y' u, z& D3 x7 i
   (二)花式组织 585 T. F6 c/ f  ]/ }* I' `
   (三)复合组织与衬垫组织 59
* v5 Q0 G2 ?7 R4 k4 C3 d: C) ~1 o& U   (四)花式空针组织 60
+ o2 _0 |0 o# g8 Q4 [( G" x   (五)变化平针组织 61- Q' B4 n5 Y7 ~+ c2 y9 q
  二、毛纱割圈法长毛绒组织 633 g( n9 `8 b6 C2 E+ O) e
   (一)“V”形组织 63) V4 y/ {* t2 O7 S' ^7 h1 I
   (二)“W”形组织 64
+ |; w  S7 ?; @$ ]  三、经编法长毛绒组织 64
7 s0 Z. M. M  I   (一)平纹组织 65
  M% @! i! Z* v& [. N5 P) y   (二)花式组织 65
! _4 b9 K  b/ J" @, G$ K9 @  四、缝编绒组织 68! [0 J1 o' T+ q
   (一)地布缝合组织 68
$ H9 u& |6 K9 k0 r$ w. H   (二)纱线缝合组织 69% {. E) ^/ t8 N- Y
   (三)纤维网缝合组织 69/ M0 o( e* b, b3 u( a" d
第二节 天然裘皮特征与人工仿效技术要素 69
. s3 V& I- i7 \" ?  一、裘皮毛绒结构与特征 70
; z2 A* g1 N4 S) N* \0 k& N. u& Q  二、裘皮毛被结构与组合分析 704 U7 @& ^7 r* p: p; h, C
  三、兽毛截面形状 72- O; [3 F( a9 n& R4 ?  C5 x) v* i
   (一)貂皮 726 c+ x. G9 r3 h( f1 y, o; u
   (二)狐狸皮 74
. Z7 j! A4 k+ l) t5 ]4 R3 r, W) w 第三节 针织人造毛皮毛绒结构及其特征 741 @! ]8 f! D* I8 z' R6 B, {. ?
  一、毛绒结构及其纤维截面形状 76) S# h5 ^& r, y  n0 Q4 {
   (一)毛绒组合要素 76
6 B/ h8 `; x6 n   (二)毛绒纤维截面形状 76* t# n5 Z; l) `# E8 `# K
  二、毛绒组合纤维及其结构特征 77
, ?! q  V' Y- v5 _7 N( m   (一)仿貂皮产品 77
* O" W7 o8 \$ c3 \( Q6 V   (二)仿狐狸皮产品 77
* Z  c7 I0 [+ q" W; e   (三)仿黄狼皮产品 77
$ d& o* s  S" D% P; x   (四)仿羊羔皮产品 82, \& t1 @" F5 M, C$ Z; ~: R
第四章 毛条法长毛绒生产工艺与设备 831 P" \$ ?: i# k$ t; |
第一节 主要生产工序及其条件 83
1 L. N- {, s2 e 第二节 染色 84
7 n/ ~" h: d1 o0 Y  t. V& M  r6 Q  一、散纤维染色 844 w7 h* r7 H" S+ g. R7 v9 \
   (一)工艺流程 84
2 n. @: O/ O& O3 t/ ~   (二)腈纶散纤维染色配方举例 84
6 Y5 p( B6 ?2 b0 G   (三)染色工艺 84
  ]* B5 H* @$ T3 }3 K  二、染色机 86
5 x9 f: _3 M: ]0 d, l   (一)NC464B型染色机 86  K& P- w  L- C/ i
   (二)1800H型整包染色机 87% h; g! ]$ e6 t& O! \( k, A( s1 t: |- c
   (三)1530N-KF型高温染色机 90) q% g6 |# q) h& O) B: y
   (四)纤维包工序转换及其吊运 94
# x8 N- S' O; p% A9 }5 K- _   (五)染色后纤维脱水 97' w6 ^  M# g+ w  F( g* {
第三节 毛条制备 1014 C7 n3 @5 H" D* t$ D6 P9 \& M# u. N
  一、纤维铺层 1013 P* w1 }8 o# F& m6 [/ x  m( _
  二、纤维混和与烘干 101
" A/ s$ c$ e# B' o0 u" ^! J! C   (一)R435型散毛喂给机 101
) ]# j- R9 ]) H" W0 s) O# {   (二)R456F-4型圆网烘干机 1035 s/ \  O0 V0 q* {; F
   (三)B261型和毛机 104
4 C+ X4 }1 E2 \   (四)纤维加油与存储设备示例 106
& t" k( n" _+ y" y5 u 第四节 梳毛 109* N& t% S! [9 g5 T
  一、毛纺工艺路线设备组合 109+ [% h" z8 \, e; J
   (一)TATHAM-AF7D型配毛箱 111" W, b, M" E: x4 H( b: [
   (二)TEMAFA型喂毛箱 1132 {$ n- R% M: n! c. b
  二、梳毛机 114: P; J* I# |* ?3 [0 Z
   (一)人造毛皮用梳毛机 114/ ^  p+ U0 `  U* }3 l
   (二)TATHAM型(FN271型)梳毛机 116
) X4 q: g. I. G0 q   (三)B272A型梳毛机及其特点 117& C6 H! h5 ^. V* E( }/ P+ ?, m" `
   (四)毛条压缩机 118- j, r% O! e- b) {2 b
   (五)梳毛机梳理元件的规格与型号 121
3 m8 U+ S+ `, m4 v7 K: Z, G 第五节 棉纺清钢联工艺 125
2 `% U9 f8 b* U/ E  一、棉纺路线清纲联工艺流程与设备组合 125; b+ v% y' v+ H) z
  二、清钢联自控程序及其电气线路 1250 m; T0 X5 n. s
  三、A006B型、A077型、A065型混棉、开棉机 125
0 S1 p4 L- I2 O) z   (一)主要技术特征 125
8 H  u/ U( D+ z   (二)传动原理 1297 b1 [: A9 u6 v1 a. o
  四、A177型喂棉机、A186型梳棉机、A272型并条机 130
$ T7 Z& }1 u9 F! Z3 v   (一)主要技术特征 131
9 N9 Y% S# N6 D' Z   (二)传动原理 1336 {% g' l5 m4 G2 e
   (三)A272型并条机总牵伸倍数与变换齿轮的关系 134) _; @0 O/ }4 U* q- f
第六节 坯布织造 136, H7 @8 u# T' n2 q  t7 C: u* b- a5 x, x
  一、底纱准备 136
1 O) w# G* z. R5 @& Z. z   (一)络筒工艺参数 137
9 D) U/ L: k; y% b7 u: O   (二)络筒机 137" N& I% V1 p( ~! U4 Z
  二、花型制备 138& K) H! I6 H4 [: v7 g3 e
   (一)概述 1388 p1 k. h4 L) v& e' S7 f# r" K& S, j
   (二)MK系列花型制备系统 140
. w2 T1 d4 I, j8 s* W   (三)HP系列花型制备系统 143; ^# v( Q, b3 u7 j9 f% i$ [
  三、MK系列人造毛皮机 144
0 @" A( @* [+ o9 _) K9 @. n   (一)机器主要技术特征 144
- u! H- d7 {1 `' E   (二)底布成圈与纤维喂入 145: p+ E5 P; p1 H- V5 f
   (三)成圈机构 149
; Y5 c: K/ g" Z) {  d( s  a   (四)MK系列梳理机构 157
* r/ q- N9 u. M( i: m  t3 _   (五)MK系列毛皮机的传动原理 1693 o2 A4 q6 r) m% Q8 ?" W
   (六)积极输纱机构 169
+ \, i8 X* s0 T( ]6 X$ q   (七)牵拉与卷取机构 169& u5 d& l% b% Q3 n8 ?4 z  W
   (八)MK系列人造毛皮机的附属设备 1696 ]1 r9 b1 {- S
   (九)MK系列人造毛皮机的润滑与加油 1744 U! K! l- a) h( ~+ K; M$ Q7 Y
   (十)机器故障排除、坯布疵点产生原因及消除方法 175
& r8 I: {+ L3 r- }8 H' {  四、HP系列人造毛皮机 178& V2 ]. }% k/ g8 Q$ j; H
   (一)机器主要技术特征 178
! W, W2 K) t3 K   (二)织针与沉降片的配合与动作 179/ b, t6 i: {( W. \
   (三)电子选针机构及其动作 187
. @1 b0 c, ^8 M% U0 K* r, n) ]. k: K   (四)成圈元件 188
/ F7 }/ t# L: ~5 X% X   (五)HP系列梳理机构 193) h5 N' o* w: g3 x( Y
   (六)输纱机构 198" a( e- O, |1 `$ I8 u# E
   (七)牵拉卷取机构 199
6 ~  h5 V/ ^9 e; H6 y   (八)附属设备 200
9 \2 M7 ^$ G% h; m   (九)HP系列人造毛皮机的润滑与加油 201
6 I$ m$ B% ]3 n, p) F   (十)机器故障排除、坯布疵点产生原因及消除方法 2019 J/ b$ d" ?' z8 ^9 @1 O
  五、KPN-16型人造毛皮机 205+ R6 Q& I" a- k8 Z- m: v
   (一)外形特征 205  a8 T! R* g& R, s0 T" ]9 Y, |
   (二)主要技术特征 205
+ d' {$ L: J9 O; m( ^   (三)成圈机构 2072 `  x* T6 _8 n- D+ B
   (四)KPN型梳理机构 2092 {5 H. G2 W# d" ~
   (五)传动原理 210
  h/ ]' ?  ~* Q" ]! W  六、Z261型人造毛皮机 212
  m& O: w0 ?7 b0 @8 D  V2 {   (一)主要技术特征 2129 i: I0 W/ @* H8 ]: y0 [
   (二)传动原理 212
1 K# L9 y' D# U" E; ^( X3 s   (三)成圈机构 212
+ }9 R5 p  ]) P) F9 W: y% c' E   (四)梳理机构 215
1 H& y% q, ]5 V7 Z+ ?) z   (五)牵拉卷取机构 217
8 t- m6 K- z6 a0 b1 |/ C% _   (六)成圈元件 217
4 D& v& H  C* v$ C  七、GE141型人造毛皮机 217
4 d. z+ k# b: C7 H8 m   (一)主要技术特征 2195 f- o( `* `7 S- n; i* n* m) o
   (二)传动原理 220. a4 G! N$ q  Y, f. b: [' R
   (三)成圈机构 220
& v2 V* v# k/ V   (四)梳理机构 2279 D8 c! g+ h  R5 W& u
   (五)牵拉卷取机构 228- ~( a4 i% p! |
   (六)输纱机构 228
; `0 e1 S" F" t& y7 q0 Y   (七)润滑与加油 228
: x  r7 O4 T" ?6 v; `; v   (八)控制线路 2301 E4 \2 ^& h1 p
第七节 成品整理 230
7 O  H( Q/ c: \' q: |7 r2 X  一、整理加工过程中的纤维效应 230
  h* Q2 `' I4 Z9 w! ?& ^& C  二、整理工艺流程 230
. ^+ W$ @7 [' O. K7 ]7 E* Z6 `6 e  三、赫格(HEINZ HERGERT)系列后整理设备及其性能 230
5 ^9 |& s7 j  N3 d4 I) e, P9 n' b   (一)机器配套与组合方案 230
' [7 U+ v( v! \* V1 \   (二)PRM/GF-1800型单刀剪毛机 232$ \" r+ P. x) R1 R
   (三)烫光机 240
2 k  q* _0 l6 J7 W. V* w$ M   (四)PRS/GF型烫剪联合机 243; c/ I( j  J1 r! c. E
   (五)悬挂式导布架 246
$ d3 `' F( r7 S  x   (六)CAF·C/74型自动量卷机 2486 [- Y6 y/ W$ ?% q* ?3 R* K8 v
  四、康迈特(COMET)系列后整理设备及其性能 253
0 I2 I7 r7 D% {1 H; b   (一)机器配套与组合方案的推荐 254! ^: E. }, X# E' G5 S
   (二)AR/70C型花式剪毛机 254/ b; B1 ^3 i* z
   (三)TS/2001型单刀剪毛机 2586 m8 v/ e: c. \4 F# {7 a- W
   (四)PRA/83型烫光机 261" _' N  _9 a; D% d8 H0 f
   (五)128C型烫剪联合机 263" O8 X1 `+ z3 V3 |
   (六)G/80型压花机 264
; E1 P5 q" o0 x  五、锡斯狄克(SISTIG)系列后整理机器及其性能 2655 K) I' l6 k8 Q' ?
   (一)机器配套与组合方案推荐 265
6 y8 M6 ^: t4 G: E& H% G. o   (二)ZRM2/2.0型刷毛机 267* S- F: m& ^( b0 {' [
   (三)FMSH1/2.0型烫剪联合机 268# V7 C' O" d+ y4 u& ~8 N" e( B
   (四)FPM200型单辊烫光机 271' j  ~) p1 L) m. f
   (五)MSH1/2.0型单刀剪毛机 271  [! K' L3 B+ a# E4 L2 ], w; ~) i% P
  六、涂胶与定形 276  J8 I7 T3 y% M6 f- l- f9 r
   (一)布鲁克纳(BRUCKNER)系列(蒸汽)涂胶定形机 2767 d" f2 H' g1 H+ ~
   (二)马歇尔-威理姆(Marshall-Williams)1800型涂胶定形机 283' l, m$ f8 ^8 [, E" z% `# D* k5 c
  七、滚球机 287
# D0 c% M: T5 d' f2 K. x3 P   (一)气流循环及其成球 289
% T7 F% m% ^# W. z# c   (二)主要技术特征 289  n8 }# D' Q# Y+ R% V% k
  八、整理过程中产品疵点产生原因与消除方法 293
& A8 Q, d5 i4 f% O8 D) Y$ T第五章 毛纱法长毛绒生产工艺与设备 294
; F7 I# T1 m3 L# R 第一节 毛纱法长毛绒产品的特点及其分类 294
8 P1 C5 f4 g  ~4 I4 h  一、毛纱与底纱线圈的特征 2944 Z- d/ S5 v; D6 |" L; _, c% _
  二、织物质量的设定 294- p2 v( z: i2 S# j& J& L+ f; B9 \
  三、产品分类 295
( ^' {7 ]; X- \8 L 第二节 绞纱染色 296
2 s3 ]# l% _; g. C  一、染色设备及其性能 2962 x. X+ C6 y, t. L0 G' K; ]5 G
   (一)绞纱染色机 296$ w* E1 `1 ~+ q7 {6 e
   (二)绞纱染色机的主要技术特征 297% ]; a( a% I% F1 n7 ?
  二、染色工艺 298- @% F) z) M* d2 g1 O; j
   (一)工艺参数 298
* J" G6 V6 A" l6 B   (二)膨化(显体)工艺 299, H. v5 c  I% @8 E  F7 k) B1 A
   (三)常用助剂及其主要性能 299
: [; D* S: L! Y: I: Z: u   (四)脱水与烘干 300
* `, ?5 H7 k' ?: @* h8 P   (五)典型工艺举例 3009 y: d$ |+ B  _( F6 l4 y
   (六)绞纱染色疵点的产生原因及消除方法 3012 j+ j3 E& X, b) K* c$ q- e
第三节 坯布织造 303
& f$ l* o5 ~6 j: H! M7 U  一、织物组织形式 303
* i. p! m" `" O8 r  二、DKP型长毛绒针织机 3039 Y- f: }7 r, ^: T
   (一)机器特征 3037 s  T% g. e9 A/ ^* }1 F
   (二)成圈与割圈机构 306
, D$ w: B* Z6 [9 ~   (三)成圈元件(以DKP型为例) 308& q. C7 F: `( P5 {0 w" ?9 f) L
   (四)坯布疵点产生原因及消除方法 312
+ Z/ ]" }4 [- d$ Z0 g 第四节 成品整理 312
6 E- d9 X3 ]* C8 L' b  一、整理加工过程中的纤维效应 312
3 }" b9 m1 L: A. `% G  二、工艺流程 312
* f4 l0 ]  A! O  三、毛纱法长毛绒整理设备的选型及其工艺要求 313
8 D( m. `) ?- U1 _( p& \- Y# h   (一)刷毛喂入方向及其主要工艺参数 3143 l, B& f5 V7 W7 F
   (二)烫光温度及其喂入方向 315  O# x2 R; I, a6 f3 Z
第六章 经编法长毛绒生产工艺与设备 317' K* a3 H% q0 n% r0 X) `  p3 A5 x
第一节 坯布织造 317; D  t$ B1 A# v/ v$ h: d, {
  一、花纹设计 317
3 @: x$ T% \2 I2 g( i/ w% [, X: u   (一)双针床经编织物的图示方法 317" q& @' D& F) z" i. e2 D
   (二)双针床经编织物的结构 318: u# q# m+ J$ u4 _) S- o; S) Y; U
   (三)工艺设计 319
* y8 M& r# s4 V! N* P& Z& h   (四)花纹制作 329# m1 t5 [% o3 s! x
  二、HDR6DPLM/60型双针床拉舍尔经编机 331
! A% n, z2 |/ I: v: e& N+ u   (一)概述 331
0 U. `4 H( y; q+ [$ m9 K   (二)成圈机构 3332 a" X/ I' [# T
   (三)编花装置 347# B; m' I' N# I* D0 y# z
   (四)牵拉与卷取 3525 Z' ~! E6 Z% U7 `# y  E
   (五)润滑部位 355. f: i: g1 `2 _0 ]. o0 G) B
   (六)上机条件及主要工艺参数 357
6 @5 j: K& e& j+ ^' K2 z2 g   (七)产品疵点产生原因及消除方法 362
% z- @/ p, V; C+ v+ E- l  三、PSM型割绒机 364* y9 |/ Q5 o) H8 \* Q
   (一)割绒机简介 364, ^# B2 \& r* D# n0 w) Q  [8 [
   (二)割绒机的主要技术特征 364
' }3 Q6 n1 ?3 L- ^/ \3 c   (三)割绒机的操作标准 365
; X6 `0 S! z8 ` 第二节 成品整理 368( o2 a- c  p; f$ N( R
  一、生产设备组合形式 368
0 D7 S  O/ g. A3 D   二、生产工艺流程 368
  _" @7 P5 @0 H3 V/ n   (一)色织 368, _+ R- R0 t% Q7 J4 a$ \6 j# ~0 E
   (二)印花 368
) k/ v, I5 `$ v4 X" D   (三)匹染 368) g, D+ P3 O5 W: ~! S
  三、印花 369
% S, \" a' E$ o+ ?8 Q$ Q- X1 E   (一)印花设备 369
  d/ _- r( \) p2 ~* j; C3 q   (二)上机条件及主要工艺参数 370/ D" M' B, [5 Y( j8 I1 A5 [/ s% V
  四、匹染 3730 V- A9 R  k; y# A3 c2 v7 H
   (一)设备 3738 [8 O# j; Z1 }1 @  A
   (二)上机条件及主要工艺参数 374
% ?- O* p4 {# G6 h& c' U( e  五、刷花 375  I7 ~# n7 ^$ t( \$ k  q# e! n
  六、热定形 375: ^0 E5 `% ]$ r7 k( V& M
   (一)滚筒定形机 375; V# S+ ~# C2 k: B4 C
   (二)上机条件及主要工艺参数 376* \- ~) \( [* q) k! D3 [/ ^/ P4 \
第七章 缝编绒生产及其设备 377+ T! K3 V2 E* `/ X6 ^* n! L
第一节 生产与设备概况 377
* W0 [2 |' e! ~ 第二节 缝编绒生产及其设备组合 377
" x& N- w: U" J2 V! N- v# L  D8 |6 `  一、加工方法 377
. A: M8 G& b+ Y: f3 |& Q  二、生产设备组合 378) l' i) Q* b! A( q$ O3 A& x" L; ]
  三、缝编绒织物的主要技术参数 378, i  T* G& @% S- o2 R
  四、成网工艺 378- V5 l5 i, n6 E8 N
   (一)纤维的选择 380
  D) q2 ^8 Q# a7 A( q% v& C   (二)纤网定量 380
9 _# h$ Z1 D& J   (三)梳理机与缝编机的工作宽度 380
2 m8 d/ c2 t( \  D% o   (四)梳理机 380
) ^: Y& {, g7 R5 g3 C& q/ l 第三节 缝编绒生产 381
5 l, H  a: v5 e- a/ r6 R) r# g  一、缝编机的主要技术特征 3813 ]; L% _# |8 f* v
  二、缝编绒的编织 3813 z- A3 p5 j* s: \
  三、生产工艺参数 382. J+ W- D5 k& O! @8 H# V
第四节 成品整理 384
) F; m% U5 U& V' Y2 ^6 p8 {  一、工艺流程 384
; {% \$ A. m* F  二、抓剪机 384
' e% N; @$ M- L; L" u4 H  三、主要工艺参数 3850 f" k7 m5 U& |8 @  f
第八章 主要经济技术指标参考 387* k2 K! x' X5 S5 ~, T" c6 ^
第一节 工艺设计 387- A" ?; I5 b+ t5 X7 Z3 Y
  一、织物规格及原料成分 387' r/ h* V1 k4 B( x
  二、织物含毛量及含纱量计算 387% v: l/ M+ N& D1 Z0 }3 j9 a4 S
第二节 生产条件及其环境保护 392
; M  @  U$ u/ W( `9 g  一、生产条件 3923 M9 o9 I/ R! A
  二、环境保护 394* O% D1 r+ n" c* l# C* a: h: u6 h
第三节 劳动定额 395* m3 q+ B9 ~+ |
  一、生产工人劳动定额 395
$ O  Q, v- _) H4 u  c  二、辅助生产工人劳动定额 396) x; A# _+ Z& [( v
4 ~5 o+ y1 E; i& i5 B/ |
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