
纺织材料学(双语教材),刘妍,熊磊,PDF。普通高等教育“十一五”国家级规划教材(本科),纺织工程专业双语教材,电子目录,14M。
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内容提要
7 \* [! }: U5 t- l本书讨论了纤维、纱线与织物(包括机织物、针织物及非织造布)的结构、机械性能、物理性能及使用性能。涉及的纤维势括天然纤维(如棉、毛、麻、丝等)、传统化学纤维及新型化学纤维。本书同时介绍了纤维、纱线和织物的各种标准测试方法(包括国际上常用的ASTM, AATCC及GB等方法),并讨论了与各种测试方法有关的测试原理及对测试结果的影响因素。
# E6 m5 V' s% J# {8 B4 ^& ~7 L本书可供高等纺织院校纺织、服装相关专业的本科生及研究生作为《纺织材料学》的双语教材或专业英语教材,也可供其他专业师生、纺织贸易专业人员和科研及生产单位的技术人员参考。! x: |0 Z$ x, t$ [; c
目录) d: D1 G0 o C- M8 l# c
Part Ⅰ An Introduction to Textiles/纺织入门 18
6 |: N5 n L/ u. C2 u Chapter 1 Introduction/介绍 18
. ?9 Q3 Y$ S& Y 1.1 ASTM Standard Terminology Relating to Textiles/ASTM纺织标准术语 189 L, k0 V n" R l8 U$ I
1.2 Fiber history/纤维历史 26& Y1 b+ L- P; ?/ d
1.2.1 Natural fibers/天然纤维 26
7 i: Y6 k* H7 X, M: W 1.2.2 Man-made fibers/化学纤维 27( s% C0 i# {6 T. H; E' H0 j& h9 S
Questions/思考题 30% l, P4 b4 @; q, j7 G+ ^
Part Ⅱ Textile Fibers/纺织纤维 32% ^8 ~1 x5 G$ h7 Q
Chapter 2 Natural Cellulosic Fibers/天然纤维素纤维 32: o- o% Y9 |& A/ n0 z9 E
2.1 Cotton/棉 33. K6 W4 I+ A; u0 R
2.1.1 Nature of cotton/棉花的种类 33
8 u m X" n: ?! X7 y+ a 2.1.2 Classification/分类 34
$ w8 C4 P' @' Y$ ?+ O; y" x: `1 W 2.1.3 Growth and structure of cotton/棉纤维的生长与结构 34* M* C, i) Q* \8 V
2.1.4 Maturity/成熟度 363 n' s! I3 V/ f) y6 c& @, e
2.1.5 Cotton properties/棉纤维的性能 38
: _2 [" m/ \3 Z* I 2.1.6 Cotton classification/棉花分级 392 ?& [- U3 j8 N) u D% U
2.2 Bast fibers/韧皮纤维 409 J; O# B9 ^; f. N
2.2.1 Flax (linen)/亚麻,亚麻织物 41* W) `; g+ Q. f& @! k. t* T
2.2.2 Ramie/苎麻 43
. Q# F: b6 U$ e+ a* i( E' G( Y T 2.2.3 Hemp/汉麻 44# h. k! o! m* [3 `: y8 O+ F
2.2.4 Jute/黄麻 44
/ {* X& i( C5 P; B; u6 Q3 Z5 t Questions/思考题 45
2 ~- K# V: l, ^" O% z9 A Chapter 3 Natural Protein Fibers/天然蛋白质纤维 46
$ [, G+ C X- `' b% t 3.1 Wool/绵羊毛 460 l& N+ c9 ~: g+ }7 w' q# r1 @
3.1.1 Wool production and history/羊毛生产和历史 46
: T5 N4 x% s8 W2 Q 3.1.2 Wool grading/羊毛分级 47' b7 q% \8 @# V9 g9 b+ P8 P8 F
3.1.3 Wool structure/羊毛结构 47& o7 m% f6 m) ]8 e( O
3.1.4 Wool properties/羊毛性能 48
6 b# o- j0 B* e* g. U 3.2 Specialty animal fibers/特种动物毛 51" O9 G) B3 L' V
3.3 Silk/丝 52 Z( m! E: K; G4 {' C y1 n
Questions/思考题 54
% x% \! u; J2 ` Chapter 4 Man-made Fibers/化学纤维 55
/ p: W( X9 {1 |' i) _) g 4.1 Manufacturing processing of fiber/纤维生产工艺 55
# o; U4 k2 u! I- m# T* j# | 4.1.1 Wet spinning/湿法纺丝 56
; }9 E" o* @4 C# K7 { 4.1.2 Dry spinning/干法纺丝 56+ b5 i8 J3 P% E# z0 @4 `
4.1.3 Melt spinning/熔体法纺丝 56
- u2 ~: n+ q8 ?- F; c4 T8 c 4.1.4 Gel spinning/凝胶纺丝 57
: \1 v2 m* x" q9 ?2 j F 4.2 Regenerated fibers/再生纤维 57
, |# F7 q/ o; A; @9 b( m1 W" U 4.2.1 Acetate/醋酯纤维 57) N3 O- ^3 d! ~" c3 J6 C, A
4.2.2 Triacetate/三醋酯纤维 590 T* w: S4 k4 `; K: x+ b0 J8 J3 E. y
4.2.3 Viscose fibers/粘胶纤维 59
7 N1 }- i' n3 A+ e) b1 g% t0 ^ 4.3 Synthetic fibers/合成纤维 60
4 a, u9 \ M' a4 d1 d$ i2 s5 v1 ] 4.3.1 Acrylic/腈纶 60- q8 l% j# u7 a% b
4.3.2 Modacrylic/改性腈纶 617 `# G7 M! }+ ^( h
4.3.3 Nylon/锦纶 61
' Y$ D2 z8 P7 c+ U1 l5 u 4.3.4 Polyester/涤纶 62( S8 a6 P+ {9 b
4.3.5 PBI/聚苯并咪唑纤维 63) ^' B B2 h, I( \( B
4.3.6 Vinal/聚乙烯醇纤维 634 W' {9 Y, c- e: E2 j9 Q
4.3.7 Olefin/聚烯烃纤维 63' l2 `3 X x+ n) X% Z; S
4.3.8 Aramid/芳纶 64
! y5 r3 }( p( h: c! C 4.3.9 Lycra/莱卡 646 Y& P) u, w ~* ?+ x# k; k0 e
4.4 Other man-made fibers/其他化学纤维 665 E; a4 }& U1 h2 b
4.4.1 Glass/玻璃纤维 66
% |3 a) b, e" v$ o& S+ p! ` 4.4.2 Metallic/金属纤维 67: N& Q( I% w P2 R6 \4 Q
Questions/思考题 67" g+ i. A* Z. O( s9 D* A
Chapter 5 New Fibers/新型纤维 681 B9 C2 ]3 W) i' h' X1 _
5.1 Carbon fibers/碳纤维 68
1 F n5 q* I- t2 j, d/ c5 k8 s 5.2 Fluorocarbon/氟碳纤维 68
. b7 ~! U# v1 O: J6 M% V: L+ d. P 5.3 Lyocell fibers(Tencel)/莱塞尔纤维 682 u8 h0 U1 p4 {, B: A- {, v
5.4 High-wet-modulus fibers/高湿模量纤维 69: I" B4 d5 V& I, y7 C0 C
5.4.1 Modal fibers/莫代尔纤维 69
( z* _. z: K3 P1 K, J8 f) s+ N: W 5.4.2 Richcel/丽赛纤维 700 b* O8 D, \' Q, o6 M
5.5 Soybean protein composite fibers/大豆蛋白复合纤维 702 u* g4 k G1 ^+ }6 n$ F
5.6 PLA fiber/聚左旋乳酸纤维 71
3 d5 P P& |$ J1 [" E2 z4 p 5.7 Heterogenous fibers/复合纤维 71" L9 u* G6 P% N, a6 v
5.7.1 Bicomponent or multicomponent/双组分或多组分 72
* C% G- f5 W2 a' Y( f8 q" z 5.7.2 Biconstituent or multiconstituent/双成分或多成分 73# p8 s) t. d/ P5 J5 L' n2 F
5.7.3 Matrix or matrix-fibril/基质型纤维 73
6 m0 Z# J) z" H& }4 ]- i9 W 5.8 Differential fibers/差别化纤维 74
+ B! ]# b* u: @ V 5.9 Functional fibers/功能性纤维 744 D! _7 W' W* G S( o% H: E& n- L
5.10 High performance fibers/高性能纤维 74
4 W- @$ l2 j2 y, L6 W) p Questions/思考题 74* v! K3 i5 W% f! i+ b
Chapter 6 The Property of Absorbing Moisture/吸湿性 75
, @9 b- x s! [ 6.1 Orientation and crystallization/取向与结晶 75
5 v6 i% {0 N& l ]6 H1 B 6.2 Moisture sorption/吸湿性 75# K* @- q. D6 d0 K+ J' m
6.2.1 Regain and moisture content/回潮率与含水率 75
0 `2 x( \' W8 @. W: H* A 6.2.2 Relation between regain and relative humidity/回潮率与相对湿度的关系 75
& u* X& n1 s {5 u, y/ L# C' m' ~ 6.2.3 Comparison of various materials/不同材料吸湿性的对比 76
, [, w$ Q, x/ I3 T 6.2.4 Theories of moisture sorption/吸湿理论 78: I. K7 n( ~% V( y
Questions/思考题 80' w" ^" w; Z' _
Chapter 7 Other Physical Properties of Textile Fibers/纤维的其他物理性能 81
H9 v; P1 A% {5 V: F5 ~: D9 x. U8 J% F 7.1 Electronic properties/电学性能 81% j3 n4 I; T" s: L( o6 K2 Z
7.1.1 Definitions/定义 81
" \; Y* ^+ N- m ^( P 7.2 Optical properties/光学性能 82
2 q e- |7 D: |) R 7.3 Thermal properties/热学性能 83
. Q9 P) k; R" `: D 7.3.1 Thermal parameters/热力学参数 839 B6 H( C u4 m- C {7 l G
7.3.2 A comparison of temperature effects/温度效应比较 83( ~" ?/ P# S, ]
Questions/思考题 83
' R5 F% Y# h4 r- D5 t0 DPart Ⅲ Textile Yarns/纺织纱线 84/ Q# `5 |) G; x4 Y; X
Chapter 8 Yarn Processing and Construction/纱线制造与结构 849 f! x4 h$ b% t0 C# Z
8.1 Spun yarns/短纤纱 859 s7 w+ N; u3 h5 X3 `
8.2 Filament yarns/长丝纱 85+ b8 |3 g3 C- ~0 t8 J' d. u ]$ K6 s
8.3 Methods of yarn processing/纺纱方法 855 I2 w& Z$ {4 h: t4 G! _7 P! Q+ O
8.3.1 Ring-spinning/环锭纺 86
% x8 I, O6 ?$ w6 I) Y, Y4 m! ^/ w 8.3.2 New methods of yarn processing/新型纺纱方法 86; {1 H7 ^' ], k% k, F
8.4 Single and ply yarns/单纱和股线 89
9 ?8 a" H+ Z# y3 r 8.5 Special types of yarn/特种纱线 90
& P( q) u5 n [$ L0 ^; s 8.5.1 Fancy yarns/花式纱 90
9 x) q/ F' E! I0 h! a- y9 N, I 8.5.2 Stretch yarns/弹力纱 91
; J0 G: e3 ]( Q9 `# {, C7 x& e 8.5.3 Textured yarns 变形纱线 91' I* @4 L4 f$ R5 H
8.6 Blends and mixtures yarns/纱线混纺与混用 925 f9 T; i5 U- M. ~7 P" |: R C2 v
Questions/思考题 93
" N3 v9 Y8 u8 } Chapter 9 Yarn Properties/纱线性能 94
( n& q( v! b Y+ c% ]7 m 9.1 Yarn number/纱线细度 940 M1 ~- {6 k- ?. Z2 O& a
9.1.1 Denier system/旦数 94# u2 [* \ q- y o+ B
9.1.2 Yarn count system/纱线英制支数 94
4 Z9 v/ y: M6 \- r. R- O 9.1.3 Tex system/线密度 95
5 q W" u- s2 Y( H! B4 p; E 9.1.4 Metric numbering system/公制支数 95
" y9 M, m5 s) }9 h6 N7 T 9.1.5 Conversion in different systems/不同系统之间的换算 95 h+ s T$ a. O, ~$ `! n
9.2 Ply yarn counts and singles equivalent/股线支数与单纱支数 95
. R! l4 y) t4 L D2 H3 y9 l 9.3 Yarn twist/纱线捻度 96
) T( J" o! M& p" i3 n, E 9.4 Yarn hairiness/纱线毛羽 97
$ l* M& @4 N8 ^7 R: f, ~ 9.4.1 Hairiness test method/毛羽测试方法 98
7 J6 X% h7 k1 }4 g% c 9.4.2 Factors affecting hairiness/影响毛羽的因素 98
( m" |4 Z) x; a) J( j 9.5 Yarn unevenness/纱线不匀 99. j0 p% e+ u' O* A) S8 X1 x% j
9.5.1 Test of yarn unevenness/纱线不匀的测试 99* K. Z7 g) W9 t; A2 I
9.5.2 Reasons for yarn unevenness/纱线不匀的原因 100
t0 B& U }9 ~* n' N5 Z 9.6 Classification of yarn quality/纱线质量分析 100
$ r. m4 |+ _! c- G" R Questions/思考题 100
2 w$ ~1 h1 ~6 W0 APart Ⅳ Textile Fabrics/织物 102
( T3 Z! a, }. _5 G' N, W- H' z0 G Chapter 10 Woven Fabrics/机织物 102
0 h$ w) q3 \( D7 b: P* @; `+ {8 ]' F2 e: Q 10.1 Making woven fabrics/织制机织物 102
5 u5 Q7 _2 W5 S) B/ v- x l 10.1.1 The loom/织机 102) v9 J/ V1 c9 l( g* p$ [
10.1.2 Loom type/织机类型 104
2 I! \* t+ X) ]: T4 h0 E' d 10.1.3 Loom motions/织机运动 104
1 k' K2 c2 p" Y) ~! S/ u. w5 m 10.1.4 Electronics in weaving/电子技术在织机中的应用 105
! h$ A! _6 X; z7 a 10.1.5 The selvage/布边 105; n8 k, e6 F" }6 z: ?
10.2 Warp yarns and filling yarns/经纱和纬纱 105. m: D, o7 C" d3 q+ }+ T. T0 w
10.2.1 Identification/鉴别 106
* P/ U) m9 V3 n% s, W- t 10.3 Face and back/正面与反面 106
+ e+ e' U* Z' B* W1 Y3 O 10.3.1 Reasons for differenee/存在差异的原因 1073 q! l( O8 O0 E8 i4 B1 O; M0 w% _4 i
10.3.2 Caution/应用的要点 1078 w7 m. ^" ]+ k. o
10.4 Top and bottom/顶端和底端 107+ x$ N% |2 U0 h ~4 N! j
10.4.1 Reasons for difference/存在差异的原因 107; @# D8 [# T) T2 p& k/ D8 t4 k$ O: h
10.5 Weave floats/组织浮线 108
. I! H8 C; n: i3 [9 w# j5 j 10.6 Basic weaves/基本组织 108
* B) X7 ]+ t% q1 Y 10.6.1 Plain weave/平纹组织 1080 A# `0 i- X6 w( n5 H# @4 r6 I
10.6.2 Twill weave/斜纹组织 109
2 ]; h+ i: O6 ~/ |, f* s, W 10.6.3 Satin weave/缎纹组织 1117 \9 }! d( |7 v$ M& a+ g% V
10.7 Fabric performance and characteristics/织物性能和参数 112& d6 A+ k. q L
10.7.1 Fabric width/幅宽 112
+ n; H% O4 u( S% @, X! j 10.7.2 Fabric weight/织物重量 112% ~0 u$ A7 [' Z8 j+ o( k- c% o
10.7.3 Fabric thickness/织物厚度 1138 d5 p, G" O5 j# [0 N/ l! K
10.7.4 Fabric density/织物密度 113
. k4 z* x: l1 D' `# m 10.7.5 Fabric count/织物经纬密度 113
# ~ y, }+ B" w) F- B X 10.7.6 Fabric defects/织物疵点 1135 F0 \* Q) E9 B6 } K& K
Questions/思考题 113
i* s/ c% H K( S2 k$ ]: E7 o1 L% C2 o Chapter 11 Knitted Fabrics/针织物 1143 T0 v9 B2 T8 ?7 W7 g: Y
11.1 Making of knitted fabric/针织物形成 114
1 v% @7 Z& p' B1 p% X; |% ` 11.1.1 The forming of knitted stitches/线圈的形成 114
/ ^5 y- U( q: s* |, }* P 11.1.2 Types of knitted stitches/线圈的种类 116
. l u( B4 }$ H5 M6 d% d 11.2 Weft knits/纬编针织物 117+ ?+ e! r# \; W
11.2.1 Jersey knit fabric/纬平针织物 117
, x, X& {: K u f+ Z' r 11.2.2 Rib knit fabric/罗纹针织物 118
2 D* q2 ]+ X" V( X' K7 z% O$ [ 11.2.3 Purl knit fabric/双反面针织物 119
: T Q# u% h8 t7 m% D 11.2.4 Double knits/双面针织物 120
% ]4 }3 d( M' l; T. o 11.2.5 Full-fashioned knits/全成形针织物 120- n) i3 w3 P7 a" t3 F. R
11.3 Warp knits/经编针织物 121
: c; t+ t% ] \8 Z) m( x$ D, ^0 Y" C( ^ 11.3.1 Tricot fabrics/特里科经编针织物 121
% ^7 m3 r, @- i ]! u 11.3.2 Raschel fabrics/拉舍尔经编针织物 122# l0 ]2 R* E4 ]. \8 X0 R
11.4 Performance and characteristics/性能和参数 122
' w+ F$ k* y: u3 a6 l" {0 G9 p+ w Questions/思考题 1231 s6 N$ a$ V7 a' F% U* E
Chapter 12 Nonwoven Fabrics/非织造布 1245 A+ v; [6 X6 j8 w
12.1 Introduction/导论 124
- F- x5 x0 ?. y/ V8 y" k) w 12.2 Manufacturing methods/生产方法 125
/ W) U8 D" P! v7 U" Y5 h( {0 | 12.2.1 Dry laid system/干法成网 125
- `% N/ J6 s3 j( ?6 j' T6 `4 K6 ~ 12.2.2 Wet laid system/湿法成网 125
6 [3 Z# {7 [* `$ o* I% A5 T 12.2.3 Polymer laid system/聚合物挤压法 125
. }8 W& h! g: y7 R 12.3 Various nonwovens/各种非织造布 125' H7 g- k; @' K9 v
12.3.1 Needle punched nonwovens/针刺法非织造布 1251 ?0 ~; Y2 W- E+ t3 n3 a
12.3.2 Bonded web nonwovens/黏合法非织造布 126# b$ ]: R$ f% B; b& |' z6 j
12.3.3 Spunlaced nonwovens/射流喷网法非织造布 127
4 b, U0 _- V, E9 T 12.3.4 Spunbonded nonwovens/纺粘法非织造布 128
6 C( H8 W4 ]/ R9 N1 S7 P 12.3.5 Melt-blown nonwovens/熔喷法非织造布 1296 F: m# t2 R2 q7 q7 A9 L
Questions/思考题 1295 s' }7 E1 `4 ^+ ]
Part Ⅴ Textile Testing/纺织品测试 130
4 z# _+ U% h4 f& E; ` Chapter 13 General Test Methods/常规测试方法 130" e Y5 _4 m$ ?" K+ ~, q
13.1 General fiber tests/纤维常规测试 130+ o8 y2 F! [( p, A# H6 Z& N* B) n
13.1.1 Fiber identification/纤维鉴别 130! ~* X/ j- c4 L$ W# [* m
13.1.2 Fiber length/纤维长度 1346 j, Z% h a3 N% L
13.1.3 Fiber fineness or linear density/纤维细度或线密度 135
; w4 X7 {. B" b: n- {' w 13.1.4 Cross-sectional shape/截面形状 135% z5 j- `, `+ D( Z) G0 m" c$ p
13.1.5 Crimp/卷曲 135- Q( u/ ~3 _ T( Q
13.1.6 Regain/回潮率 1362 V( p9 P0 ?9 ^* }: M8 P( E
13.1.7 Mechanical properties/机械性能 1362 u: G2 H8 O' N2 H
13.1.8 Chemical characteristics/化学性能 136
4 R7 x! d0 r; h1 I( Q8 ^ 13.1.9 Surface characteristics/表面性能 136
0 C4 U; F1 C, Z" ^6 H& [# `1 O; @ 13.1.10 Density and specific gravity/密度和相对密度 1373 a5 m( B' T; I0 F
13.2 Special tests for natural fibers/天然纤维的测试 137
, D- ~ d2 [ n 13.2.1 Tests for cotton/棉纤维测试 137
: F0 N3 P: F6 ]% X1 y 13.2.2 Tests for wool/毛纤维测试 1399 D1 W+ ?: a) f) n- o+ G5 t
13.3 Testing of tensile properties/拉伸性能测试 140
9 J8 {4 w5 P5 q3 ]' { 13.3.1 Description of tensile proprieties/拉伸性能的描述 141/ l8 Y$ h9 v9 p9 t6 i! S$ F, u7 l- f
13.3.2 Fiber and yarn tensile testing/纤维和纱线拉伸性能的测试 146
- H4 J! p" Q% G3 I; L9 Q; u# \ 13.3.3 Fabric tensile testing/织物拉伸性能测试方法 147
/ ~, b( t- T8 a: ^' a' S Questions/思考题 149: u( K$ j( @3 N( v; _9 n9 j
Chapter 14 Fabric Abrasion and Pilling/织物磨损与起球 150+ s Z7 X. g) I3 M! B/ F, d
14.1 Types of abrasion/磨损的类型 150/ d: l% [+ |" N: M0 R
14.1.1 Abrasion between fabrics/织物间的磨损 150
( y( E3 o$ V' |! a0 e 14.1.2 Abrasion between fabric and a nontextile surface/织物与非纤维制品表面磨损 150
' a" W! l7 K9 K) P) m 14.1.3 Abrasion within fabric/织物内部磨损 151 r, f2 x, j- N5 V4 y+ S
14.1.4 Abrasion by foreign materials within the fabric/与织物内部其他材料的磨损 151( f3 n' x% J6 O
14.2 Factors affecting fabric abrasion resistance/影响耐磨性能的因素 1512 S. I+ u6 A! D! ~
14.2.1 Fabric properties/织物性能 1519 P8 l2 `% h: P5 v; v$ i9 }+ ?
14.2.2 Other factors/其他因素 153
4 `- B" b5 A5 M9 Q- I( h0 q 14.3 Abrasion testing/磨损测试 154
( ^1 c. W8 v7 Y9 N2 f0 h) T3 ~ 14.3.1 Visual comparison with an unabraded specimen/与未磨损样品视觉对比 154
+ O& |0 R* o* G1 V' t& J 14.3.2 Number of cycles to produce a hole/产生磨损破洞需要的摩擦圈数 1547 G+ {& o- V& e* Y" z
14.3.3 Change in a physical property/物理性能的变化 154
( M# Q$ m$ G8 P 14.3.4 Microscopic examination/显微镜观测 155
! ]6 H' |6 Z/ M* _ 14.4 Aesthetics of abrasion and wear/穿着和磨损对美感的影响 1552 H1 L1 v- @4 O; y
14.4.1 Color changes caused by abrasion/磨损引起的颜色变化 155
( P7 ~; t+ k9 C8 |# R 14.4.2 Pilling/起球 156
& b6 {4 ~0 J( M7 W6 j/ w4 S6 e Questions/思考题 157
, y3 a y/ R% v$ Y% a Chapter 15 Fabric Hand and Drape/织物手感与悬垂 158
$ y% S5 \" ?+ A: [1 y/ @9 m: ^" i 15.1 Fabric hand/织物手感 158* q: w$ ^! i. X% i! s7 V
15.2 Fabric drape/织物悬垂 159
# `) U% ^+ r$ o 15.3 Measurement of hand and drape/手感与悬垂的评价 161
: ~" I- Z- F' f9 P 15.3.1 Subjective evaluation/主观评定法 161) R& J6 T% l, Q9 a7 h+ y
15.3.2 Quantitative measurement/定量评定法 162
, o8 l& W5 X/ n% F( I* ]; T 15.3.3 Kawabata evaluation system/KES评定法 163
9 i7 ^0 |% w1 c* A7 K& c Questions/思考题 163& u+ p( d8 ]5 t$ p- s
Chapter 16 Fabric Colorfastness/织物染色牢度 164
, I9 n( R9 ]# J; d: _ 16.1 Evaluation of color and colorfastness/颜色和染色牢度评定方法 1644 J/ Z; d) h2 I. n' f1 [& \
16.2 Colorfastness tests/染色牢度测试 164) r5 `. l* ?) r: ]% ^0 ?
16.2.1 Colorfastness to crocking/耐摩擦色牢度 164
$ c6 h( f4 P6 Y; u6 q 16.2.2 Colorfastness to laundering and bleaching/耐洗涤和耐漂白色牢 165
( G. u2 p9 |( v. z% F 16.2.3 Colorfastness to drycleaning/耐干洗色牢度 166
6 h7 p1 s) K( V1 C; p 16.2.4 Colorfastness to perspiration/耐汗渍色牢度 166
5 e0 R* P1 n+ x P3 A1 ^ 16.2.5 Colorfastness to water/耐水浸色牢度 166
5 a y4 y6 N/ q. E' \2 ?# X, R) x 16.2.6 Colorfastness to light/耐光照色牢度 167
2 y2 j7 H/ a( s* ]2 g" x 16.2.7 Colorfastness to atmospheric contaminants/耐空气污染色牢度 168
$ z o! l+ B% u; ?) P1 K Questions/思考题 168
8 I# G: p' Q' {* c Chapter 17 Fabric Flammability/织物可燃性 169
! X! l4 n. n1 t! K4 o. U- W* r/ f 17.1 Flammability standards/可燃性标准 1693 f" U$ L# I# f) K5 ^. X
17.2 Properties affecting flammability/影响可燃性的因素 169& u' X \% i* E( D8 G& C
17.3 Flammability testing/可燃性测试 171
+ w4 C' `: j4 [1 Y1 \ 17.3.1 Forty-five degree angle test/45°燃烧测试法 171) D% `' W3 G% a! m1 t5 ?
17.3.2 Vertical flame tests/垂直燃烧测试法 172
7 |4 l5 u1 e1 e/ E/ i 17.3.3 Carpet testing/地毯测试 172
% ^" t8 s+ Z7 M* E 17.3.4 Cigarette tests/卷烟点燃测试 172; D7 r) r, s0 _8 p- {
17.3.5 Other standard flammability tests/其他可燃性测试 173
6 f" P8 @$ k* r* T# i Questions/思考题 173
% R* N4 \2 {( g# b6 w( b7 l! U5 C Chapter 18 Comfort of Textiles/纺织品舒适性 174
4 A; L7 |* X& Y d 18.1 Physical phenomena affecting thermal comfort/影响热舒适性能的物理现象 174
# u" M1 v# x( ~" B7 R' o& _# D3 ] 18.1.1 Heat transfer/热传递 174
}" k7 O% }6 a 18.1.2 Moisture transfer/湿传递 175
: r5 p1 q! G4 b2 F4 p* S1 C( I 18.1.3 Water resistance/抗水性 175
0 i2 w- ]* L; H9 }; |# c 18.1.4 Air transfer/透气性 176
* c- p6 g6 n% N! t 18.1.5 Porosity and cover factor/多孔性和覆盖系数 176
! o; g8 B. }9 s7 X' { 18.1.6 Electrostatic propensity/静电 177
7 Q& o4 D) x0 T, |2 e D7 | 18.2 Evaluations of textile properties related to comfort/与舒适性相关的纺织品性能评价 177* g/ D. V( g" s
18.2.1 Heat transfer/热传递 178
7 f7 a" O/ l/ x7 q: ] t, z' c/ q: s 18.2.2 Moisture properties/湿传递性能 179! b- `* r- C7 s `: R$ {$ B9 h) x
18.2.3 Air permeability/透气性 179
: q6 W, I+ W- M( `4 r4 H9 C 18.2.4 Porosity/孔隙率 180$ J' k* }5 o7 F9 {8 J7 }
18.2.5 Electrostatic tests/静电测试 1800 n* t) D4 K5 W* e) V
Questions/思考题 180 Z/ Z1 e+ W4 q9 l. B3 u- G
Appendix/附录 181! l+ n" V/ `, S6 u9 i* A. W! w" ^
AATCC:AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS/美国纺织化学家与染色家协会 181
! r1 F" F. J! [. a# m ASTM:AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR TESTING AND MATERIALS/美国材料试验学会 184
+ C9 K5 p& n9 F' F. X GVocabulary/词汇表 1898 |; M) K& T: p1 p$ }( {0 `- [
References/参考文献 197
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