
纺织材料学(双语教材),刘妍,熊磊,PDF。普通高等教育“十一五”国家级规划教材(本科),纺织工程专业双语教材,电子目录,14M。
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7 [" a& J) S/ I! F/ z9 W内容提要
7 x1 J( G: R. v! k2 ?本书讨论了纤维、纱线与织物(包括机织物、针织物及非织造布)的结构、机械性能、物理性能及使用性能。涉及的纤维势括天然纤维(如棉、毛、麻、丝等)、传统化学纤维及新型化学纤维。本书同时介绍了纤维、纱线和织物的各种标准测试方法(包括国际上常用的ASTM, AATCC及GB等方法),并讨论了与各种测试方法有关的测试原理及对测试结果的影响因素。
n+ o( Z5 w7 C% g9 Z$ p本书可供高等纺织院校纺织、服装相关专业的本科生及研究生作为《纺织材料学》的双语教材或专业英语教材,也可供其他专业师生、纺织贸易专业人员和科研及生产单位的技术人员参考。+ k: Z @* \6 I% F1 a
目录
! a, E( h4 e% k1 I4 kPart Ⅰ An Introduction to Textiles/纺织入门 18
3 x0 z9 M, b4 M. z+ [; G, L- u Chapter 1 Introduction/介绍 18
# Y" @1 i+ m" D 1.1 ASTM Standard Terminology Relating to Textiles/ASTM纺织标准术语 184 @2 f1 a) ]6 ^! z, i, T
1.2 Fiber history/纤维历史 26- t" M( Y3 D: |) ^5 k/ Z9 w
1.2.1 Natural fibers/天然纤维 26% F: m( _3 y3 v8 |6 o. @% A
1.2.2 Man-made fibers/化学纤维 27* w3 l: O& I% D: D l
Questions/思考题 30+ p3 q; c+ Q7 \9 o% M
Part Ⅱ Textile Fibers/纺织纤维 32
$ J" N- g2 y7 d" ?* ]" F; V Chapter 2 Natural Cellulosic Fibers/天然纤维素纤维 32. c0 d* d: T, i+ ^# m
2.1 Cotton/棉 33
% C1 ]' E7 R6 S3 g 2.1.1 Nature of cotton/棉花的种类 33
! }" Y7 `' M7 v% P0 b 2.1.2 Classification/分类 34
/ f! |$ a% q% Z: H9 l% @& G 2.1.3 Growth and structure of cotton/棉纤维的生长与结构 34) Y/ x# L1 g! t: I) G- g+ U
2.1.4 Maturity/成熟度 36
/ c+ z! a+ E7 r1 H: g1 i4 v 2.1.5 Cotton properties/棉纤维的性能 38# `- r# T- N8 u3 L! ?& v
2.1.6 Cotton classification/棉花分级 39
3 N- P: ^+ ]* ?2 T+ }0 c1 n' g 2.2 Bast fibers/韧皮纤维 40
; k' o5 Q- z# ^4 D( O. w 2.2.1 Flax (linen)/亚麻,亚麻织物 41
3 U+ X! ^" ^' \9 Q 2.2.2 Ramie/苎麻 43% J- \: p# @5 z0 }1 p' t$ d
2.2.3 Hemp/汉麻 44, ~. ~1 M ^( u. o c( w3 Q; G
2.2.4 Jute/黄麻 440 i0 C: ?5 x0 n9 X
Questions/思考题 45
5 y2 }. s: l0 ^& w c Chapter 3 Natural Protein Fibers/天然蛋白质纤维 463 w, \% D. Q1 t) e+ E, D& ?
3.1 Wool/绵羊毛 46
" U* e5 d$ w7 Q) K 3.1.1 Wool production and history/羊毛生产和历史 467 i! Y- C* H, Z( V& K
3.1.2 Wool grading/羊毛分级 47! o. ^3 T ]1 U
3.1.3 Wool structure/羊毛结构 47 B/ ?$ z$ I; R
3.1.4 Wool properties/羊毛性能 48
0 R1 M' _2 O* q9 _3 x* {/ S+ H1 T 3.2 Specialty animal fibers/特种动物毛 51
9 b; _2 k ]/ ^ 3.3 Silk/丝 526 V. w3 j8 r5 e- g3 A$ R
Questions/思考题 542 Z N4 I0 \4 u! Z
Chapter 4 Man-made Fibers/化学纤维 55
* M1 w8 I- Y0 Y/ `* m 4.1 Manufacturing processing of fiber/纤维生产工艺 55
) u* j# K9 q$ K e6 U 4.1.1 Wet spinning/湿法纺丝 563 D+ V+ H# {$ N# {
4.1.2 Dry spinning/干法纺丝 56& `/ j1 t; u9 d. _
4.1.3 Melt spinning/熔体法纺丝 56
. D" y) J3 @; B$ M! F ?! L 4.1.4 Gel spinning/凝胶纺丝 57: Y0 d: a) w- V0 M
4.2 Regenerated fibers/再生纤维 572 H& m& n2 O8 [! N' A
4.2.1 Acetate/醋酯纤维 57& n2 m) z9 \4 Q9 d& O
4.2.2 Triacetate/三醋酯纤维 59! r- i9 u9 O. ~( @0 u' J
4.2.3 Viscose fibers/粘胶纤维 59% b* U- f- ~8 ]* U0 d1 L
4.3 Synthetic fibers/合成纤维 60
; x- y+ e& p/ t- j: W0 Z, w5 m 4.3.1 Acrylic/腈纶 607 q2 U8 N4 W3 ?3 @7 J/ @6 G
4.3.2 Modacrylic/改性腈纶 61, U: o) T1 a* R i& g v
4.3.3 Nylon/锦纶 61
: {/ Q! P. H! U) {; n 4.3.4 Polyester/涤纶 62* t! y0 S: _5 F" l7 s$ ?
4.3.5 PBI/聚苯并咪唑纤维 63, \# C7 D i" ]- G3 D& `2 I3 O
4.3.6 Vinal/聚乙烯醇纤维 63( V" V* a1 K$ P
4.3.7 Olefin/聚烯烃纤维 63
! c, w/ ~6 |# \9 P' e& D+ T 4.3.8 Aramid/芳纶 643 t% w0 M D2 I9 q: J
4.3.9 Lycra/莱卡 64
0 u, o$ m% m7 s; b 4.4 Other man-made fibers/其他化学纤维 66
. c- Z" o. I3 c- B# L! m' H q 4.4.1 Glass/玻璃纤维 66
7 X, z8 n% V: `: N: P# x* G) e8 i 4.4.2 Metallic/金属纤维 67
! [, `" l! T, H% c: w+ G1 t( u- C9 H Questions/思考题 67- s! l9 |& A0 b. L
Chapter 5 New Fibers/新型纤维 681 G" v$ X* o) ~/ b
5.1 Carbon fibers/碳纤维 686 l2 \9 I" q& R0 ^1 f# y" i. \
5.2 Fluorocarbon/氟碳纤维 68
: h3 h7 d! E6 _7 m; C( ^4 m' \0 x 5.3 Lyocell fibers(Tencel)/莱塞尔纤维 68
+ m* [/ [% |6 C" ` o8 i: ^* T2 K 5.4 High-wet-modulus fibers/高湿模量纤维 69( {2 Z+ ?! `7 h `
5.4.1 Modal fibers/莫代尔纤维 69
0 o; b. D3 M/ q) I4 p 5.4.2 Richcel/丽赛纤维 70; C3 y$ x& j4 k- w0 g) g/ ^5 G
5.5 Soybean protein composite fibers/大豆蛋白复合纤维 70
7 L8 j4 j& D; u8 A, c 5.6 PLA fiber/聚左旋乳酸纤维 710 Q: C" [. ?+ L2 Z, l
5.7 Heterogenous fibers/复合纤维 71
; ~0 V7 I" p1 Z" e! A" U 5.7.1 Bicomponent or multicomponent/双组分或多组分 72
* E- n3 j9 l3 n& b u) F3 B2 v 5.7.2 Biconstituent or multiconstituent/双成分或多成分 73
8 _% x% P4 T' s6 _ 5.7.3 Matrix or matrix-fibril/基质型纤维 73) D- {7 T. W, g" }( ^" e$ k; f
5.8 Differential fibers/差别化纤维 745 a9 o- Q& t$ y4 O2 L8 T/ Z+ }/ ~- D/ D
5.9 Functional fibers/功能性纤维 74) y8 H! p2 i/ Q: X4 [6 b+ q! s
5.10 High performance fibers/高性能纤维 74* R. I: m! H$ B: L0 d P: T8 @, Z
Questions/思考题 74
( Y: @3 U$ n' I Chapter 6 The Property of Absorbing Moisture/吸湿性 75
7 U0 S9 D0 W! D, w. Y 6.1 Orientation and crystallization/取向与结晶 75; n! A% \6 _. r5 J0 o% D0 Q) {
6.2 Moisture sorption/吸湿性 75
; J4 J' E. t7 o% C: P( q! x9 @4 t3 ^ 6.2.1 Regain and moisture content/回潮率与含水率 75
) q, B4 U7 i5 @6 U 6.2.2 Relation between regain and relative humidity/回潮率与相对湿度的关系 75, d7 c3 u) w/ X) n7 z* I
6.2.3 Comparison of various materials/不同材料吸湿性的对比 76
2 A, k* O2 y3 \* {: _) N* Q4 X 6.2.4 Theories of moisture sorption/吸湿理论 78% k3 ~# s3 G! s
Questions/思考题 80' s2 Q; ?7 k9 I0 B- x6 w
Chapter 7 Other Physical Properties of Textile Fibers/纤维的其他物理性能 81
3 |) d; Q+ e: y5 V7 }+ b 7.1 Electronic properties/电学性能 81
9 H9 A7 T3 P1 |$ \ 7.1.1 Definitions/定义 81
$ B m9 J2 `# S 7.2 Optical properties/光学性能 82
" }* Z; K1 x& J- m 7.3 Thermal properties/热学性能 83& q/ i8 T8 O6 N" r# J3 V
7.3.1 Thermal parameters/热力学参数 83
% K& L) F7 I" k) E 7.3.2 A comparison of temperature effects/温度效应比较 83
. i" j! O* _# T7 O, H Questions/思考题 83
6 W. V: P0 G/ ]; K# _Part Ⅲ Textile Yarns/纺织纱线 84
0 P: q. C7 j; S1 f+ v& L4 H Chapter 8 Yarn Processing and Construction/纱线制造与结构 84+ \$ B; S# ^8 |. b9 \
8.1 Spun yarns/短纤纱 85
8 [3 r2 o* `1 T9 k 8.2 Filament yarns/长丝纱 851 ~- j) l7 ?8 J" `5 M
8.3 Methods of yarn processing/纺纱方法 85
' Z: Z6 N" G7 B6 c6 x( T. z 8.3.1 Ring-spinning/环锭纺 86 m/ ?* `, W; S
8.3.2 New methods of yarn processing/新型纺纱方法 86
3 C0 p: |; @/ q3 }, G 8.4 Single and ply yarns/单纱和股线 89
4 z: _9 Y6 s3 R+ M( v; S4 C. x& ~ 8.5 Special types of yarn/特种纱线 90
# R1 A/ M' w9 E$ C5 a3 @. \ 8.5.1 Fancy yarns/花式纱 902 C) {4 y' r. F
8.5.2 Stretch yarns/弹力纱 91* u& u$ k& c7 p& ~5 e) Y/ C( C
8.5.3 Textured yarns 变形纱线 91
* F. v+ @$ h: Z( l ^0 A" O 8.6 Blends and mixtures yarns/纱线混纺与混用 92$ L& o: D4 K. T* n
Questions/思考题 93
: G+ o! {) ~. Z; s5 \) d' X Chapter 9 Yarn Properties/纱线性能 94
! m% R5 g u2 }3 @; s 9.1 Yarn number/纱线细度 948 h) s \! V! H' `1 ~) r9 A
9.1.1 Denier system/旦数 94: R" F* B0 D8 }4 i) K
9.1.2 Yarn count system/纱线英制支数 94
5 J9 M' f8 J: T0 z8 z& { 9.1.3 Tex system/线密度 95
1 t7 x) M) Q3 P/ D$ G d& Y( ~ 9.1.4 Metric numbering system/公制支数 95% i" G4 x/ W5 z0 @9 {0 ?
9.1.5 Conversion in different systems/不同系统之间的换算 95
7 R+ G3 @+ O1 w- D N 9.2 Ply yarn counts and singles equivalent/股线支数与单纱支数 95
5 v, y9 d9 ^; B8 w 9.3 Yarn twist/纱线捻度 968 L9 t3 G. R1 \4 X9 @) ~
9.4 Yarn hairiness/纱线毛羽 97" k( }6 a$ {+ }# M
9.4.1 Hairiness test method/毛羽测试方法 98$ X }% g" Z" g0 X: m
9.4.2 Factors affecting hairiness/影响毛羽的因素 98
' G, s) B! u$ E4 K 9.5 Yarn unevenness/纱线不匀 99) _9 H L% X/ k$ M5 S& m/ L) e
9.5.1 Test of yarn unevenness/纱线不匀的测试 99+ e- G4 E. W) g
9.5.2 Reasons for yarn unevenness/纱线不匀的原因 100
6 C2 E4 [7 E, | Y' S 9.6 Classification of yarn quality/纱线质量分析 100
, ^. d' D8 x4 B2 i+ C* T. { Questions/思考题 100
& A" L9 d7 K+ Y9 U5 y* ^# k' E! u+ ?Part Ⅳ Textile Fabrics/织物 102" M. b0 ]' ?# A6 D0 D4 d
Chapter 10 Woven Fabrics/机织物 1025 E3 N. W) G/ H+ O
10.1 Making woven fabrics/织制机织物 102
: G, v* L5 q8 ]. o 10.1.1 The loom/织机 102
3 A/ M( J a. J2 Z* ^, _ 10.1.2 Loom type/织机类型 1040 f+ ^$ c0 `* `( z/ X( B/ r
10.1.3 Loom motions/织机运动 104
; w2 }4 }& k1 T4 ] 10.1.4 Electronics in weaving/电子技术在织机中的应用 105
$ j; `2 l) Y6 m% G2 | 10.1.5 The selvage/布边 105
/ N, @/ G/ q' c" e9 l0 o1 ~ 10.2 Warp yarns and filling yarns/经纱和纬纱 105
7 Y8 L1 Q. R* ]1 x 10.2.1 Identification/鉴别 106
2 F( s" P& k; a' ]' a8 h; A% |" f 10.3 Face and back/正面与反面 106( G1 j! s7 Z' u- n
10.3.1 Reasons for differenee/存在差异的原因 107
?; q: i* ], E0 A* T 10.3.2 Caution/应用的要点 107. h7 P O S5 z! v6 H
10.4 Top and bottom/顶端和底端 107' ?; @2 H% c- Z3 P5 Z( ~6 u
10.4.1 Reasons for difference/存在差异的原因 1076 `7 o4 b* C/ Y# u
10.5 Weave floats/组织浮线 108
9 u. { @& S5 e. Z 10.6 Basic weaves/基本组织 108
, i4 f7 Z* I/ q0 V2 D* ] 10.6.1 Plain weave/平纹组织 108! e5 t" ~/ u3 J( b$ k' y
10.6.2 Twill weave/斜纹组织 109
; y" m9 W8 [$ B1 Y 10.6.3 Satin weave/缎纹组织 111
# R0 `8 d$ N* D8 ]# h* r 10.7 Fabric performance and characteristics/织物性能和参数 112: L$ K$ K8 k8 P' C0 ]
10.7.1 Fabric width/幅宽 1121 K; N; V; A0 M# p) t: ^
10.7.2 Fabric weight/织物重量 112: h, h; e7 D7 T! R. @# M9 V2 U; `
10.7.3 Fabric thickness/织物厚度 113( R+ d) g. L6 V# @# ~
10.7.4 Fabric density/织物密度 113. ^! P% N# C5 o8 j3 j. D
10.7.5 Fabric count/织物经纬密度 113 f% p. ?/ ~) H6 O3 u) O
10.7.6 Fabric defects/织物疵点 113
1 F- B L# B1 I3 \4 G Questions/思考题 113" H/ p9 o% m4 L% N% P
Chapter 11 Knitted Fabrics/针织物 114
6 \* A+ E1 C6 b9 A 11.1 Making of knitted fabric/针织物形成 1143 p7 X/ ^ Z$ N
11.1.1 The forming of knitted stitches/线圈的形成 114. f3 x8 F7 R1 ~; E9 [
11.1.2 Types of knitted stitches/线圈的种类 1163 D; T. F7 k8 `% e4 E+ J- Z
11.2 Weft knits/纬编针织物 1178 w0 k# E2 q) N; {. T k' {! E
11.2.1 Jersey knit fabric/纬平针织物 117
m/ p( v; T$ m 11.2.2 Rib knit fabric/罗纹针织物 118% b0 w& B5 h6 a- a
11.2.3 Purl knit fabric/双反面针织物 119
1 ]2 `8 w* L+ U" e: s- \ 11.2.4 Double knits/双面针织物 120. g5 x: }; J W7 e4 D- R1 \) ^
11.2.5 Full-fashioned knits/全成形针织物 120/ ]& X+ i+ q$ _7 Z
11.3 Warp knits/经编针织物 121" f2 j: d- |2 U. S- _
11.3.1 Tricot fabrics/特里科经编针织物 121
7 v2 ^+ Q8 r) `+ k) Z- H; e7 c 11.3.2 Raschel fabrics/拉舍尔经编针织物 122# A Z- M4 w( k1 F" k8 o% }: o& a
11.4 Performance and characteristics/性能和参数 122' Z" Y0 b7 k' f) {4 r( {
Questions/思考题 1233 s1 A8 m5 {1 }, @" i$ Y
Chapter 12 Nonwoven Fabrics/非织造布 124
! d3 D1 L( H! f3 \ 12.1 Introduction/导论 124 P9 R5 \, X4 P# |' W2 v
12.2 Manufacturing methods/生产方法 125
& {; p8 E: R, _8 l 12.2.1 Dry laid system/干法成网 125
% t2 ?1 l# P, _3 y1 H8 D/ V: n) V% u 12.2.2 Wet laid system/湿法成网 125
, w2 y0 N; y7 ?8 f) i 12.2.3 Polymer laid system/聚合物挤压法 125& i' {& R# ]9 v8 c- |" S+ y
12.3 Various nonwovens/各种非织造布 125
) y# U/ L' w; o+ p4 {' _, q a 12.3.1 Needle punched nonwovens/针刺法非织造布 125
& i6 C/ t9 l+ B9 V 12.3.2 Bonded web nonwovens/黏合法非织造布 126
% f9 k& `* E& a 12.3.3 Spunlaced nonwovens/射流喷网法非织造布 127% U$ D) |% m& Z/ r
12.3.4 Spunbonded nonwovens/纺粘法非织造布 128
" r: s- G4 f; l# l 12.3.5 Melt-blown nonwovens/熔喷法非织造布 129
( Y, l/ s: u- R5 F |9 D P Questions/思考题 129& E' T. u" Q4 j% V
Part Ⅴ Textile Testing/纺织品测试 130! @5 v) Z; s7 T' ^! c& ~* K1 P( U
Chapter 13 General Test Methods/常规测试方法 130' o3 m2 g+ g: _: A* v9 G" x# ^" r/ q/ X
13.1 General fiber tests/纤维常规测试 130
9 j4 {( T2 k* Q2 h& h% W 13.1.1 Fiber identification/纤维鉴别 130
/ y6 n8 w- b9 _& g 13.1.2 Fiber length/纤维长度 134
- v I8 `3 |( m# D ]7 p' g 13.1.3 Fiber fineness or linear density/纤维细度或线密度 1352 [/ U/ s O4 j3 f6 {
13.1.4 Cross-sectional shape/截面形状 135( j( B1 s" `- U1 i- r6 \
13.1.5 Crimp/卷曲 135" j8 w: M% @* i! f& W& E
13.1.6 Regain/回潮率 136- l5 M2 N! i5 K; @1 x4 ]
13.1.7 Mechanical properties/机械性能 136
7 b; Y" u3 l" U/ u$ l 13.1.8 Chemical characteristics/化学性能 136
8 T ]6 Z1 z" N4 ~* S* B" @# I 13.1.9 Surface characteristics/表面性能 136
$ ~9 y, p& t3 d; Q$ \$ r 13.1.10 Density and specific gravity/密度和相对密度 137& w8 ]1 ~& ]4 U k9 P- w
13.2 Special tests for natural fibers/天然纤维的测试 137+ Y& `) v: M7 N! d4 A2 u) B& A
13.2.1 Tests for cotton/棉纤维测试 137
0 i* o+ C& H* H( \6 A/ h: p8 r 13.2.2 Tests for wool/毛纤维测试 139
6 a6 D% E8 Y1 v) _- ^/ S 13.3 Testing of tensile properties/拉伸性能测试 140
- a! l- f" v2 H6 h# y 13.3.1 Description of tensile proprieties/拉伸性能的描述 141) ]7 h- e1 ^: ]7 }2 G
13.3.2 Fiber and yarn tensile testing/纤维和纱线拉伸性能的测试 146, m& [& ^# l; E
13.3.3 Fabric tensile testing/织物拉伸性能测试方法 147 O- z/ H& ~( `# Y2 L
Questions/思考题 149
; R# y+ Q( n3 r1 j1 D! \ Chapter 14 Fabric Abrasion and Pilling/织物磨损与起球 1505 A- s2 I( m. d* P
14.1 Types of abrasion/磨损的类型 1501 l# N1 T( v8 @4 a+ c3 q
14.1.1 Abrasion between fabrics/织物间的磨损 150
9 q% v" \/ r2 {: [# @8 x6 s8 f 14.1.2 Abrasion between fabric and a nontextile surface/织物与非纤维制品表面磨损 150
0 _' s6 p: J0 S& d6 A- j 14.1.3 Abrasion within fabric/织物内部磨损 151
* e* X+ E7 I" ]5 S2 w5 C9 w 14.1.4 Abrasion by foreign materials within the fabric/与织物内部其他材料的磨损 151
; `2 P6 [- y T( y 14.2 Factors affecting fabric abrasion resistance/影响耐磨性能的因素 151( K3 d6 k- E; X, i! A% k) @
14.2.1 Fabric properties/织物性能 151
0 _# P; ?" `7 k1 u2 z7 V 14.2.2 Other factors/其他因素 1538 f' C' |: @- n8 N% }
14.3 Abrasion testing/磨损测试 1544 D0 u( n# L. U2 M5 q4 x3 t8 z) p
14.3.1 Visual comparison with an unabraded specimen/与未磨损样品视觉对比 154
, _1 P. i" d+ \% @- q! L 14.3.2 Number of cycles to produce a hole/产生磨损破洞需要的摩擦圈数 154
r/ I6 z+ a! J! U' m 14.3.3 Change in a physical property/物理性能的变化 1549 ?" |. `- x; A/ d
14.3.4 Microscopic examination/显微镜观测 155
* }" r( F% l- d9 R) c 14.4 Aesthetics of abrasion and wear/穿着和磨损对美感的影响 155
# Q0 Z+ v/ s% C- G 14.4.1 Color changes caused by abrasion/磨损引起的颜色变化 155
' K. i6 Q- | M% G+ q 14.4.2 Pilling/起球 1560 T7 w6 B$ i/ h" U! \: X" V
Questions/思考题 157
5 P/ Z; P* l: S* | Chapter 15 Fabric Hand and Drape/织物手感与悬垂 158
( l) ?* ^9 P4 Y/ a1 K" ]/ K9 g 15.1 Fabric hand/织物手感 158
8 s5 c; f4 y3 a! [" F 15.2 Fabric drape/织物悬垂 159
3 T) U( n9 e# f6 }' m 15.3 Measurement of hand and drape/手感与悬垂的评价 1618 p$ \% t8 s$ w# \
15.3.1 Subjective evaluation/主观评定法 161
. ~ z7 E6 l X! f 15.3.2 Quantitative measurement/定量评定法 1628 c' T: \5 i1 i) L! s
15.3.3 Kawabata evaluation system/KES评定法 163$ R& _* n) b6 P% j
Questions/思考题 163% Q i+ O+ T m0 [1 l. X
Chapter 16 Fabric Colorfastness/织物染色牢度 164' Q% u/ ]7 W- \" A' L* u9 }
16.1 Evaluation of color and colorfastness/颜色和染色牢度评定方法 164
) W8 i) o9 M, [ 16.2 Colorfastness tests/染色牢度测试 164$ c) C6 T$ D2 a/ d% ?
16.2.1 Colorfastness to crocking/耐摩擦色牢度 164
% o* p5 @! y) r& v# s4 }# J 16.2.2 Colorfastness to laundering and bleaching/耐洗涤和耐漂白色牢 165" S6 y) |& a9 \9 x
16.2.3 Colorfastness to drycleaning/耐干洗色牢度 166
: o! G6 K! B& J- p) e0 V 16.2.4 Colorfastness to perspiration/耐汗渍色牢度 166
) \/ C4 B7 H- A4 q: _) e& Z 16.2.5 Colorfastness to water/耐水浸色牢度 166
6 n+ A" X( a0 a/ @& b+ Y 16.2.6 Colorfastness to light/耐光照色牢度 167
' k' R! _! N6 a( e4 }, W8 F( S1 |% | 16.2.7 Colorfastness to atmospheric contaminants/耐空气污染色牢度 168; Y( y& P" O$ Y& O5 K- [+ P9 ^
Questions/思考题 168
( e5 s% o! c6 B' C Chapter 17 Fabric Flammability/织物可燃性 169( B& q. @5 D1 P# |7 ]- n
17.1 Flammability standards/可燃性标准 169
2 G3 k. E8 s" K( _ 17.2 Properties affecting flammability/影响可燃性的因素 169
0 q' z; F$ s: ~* Q; O, z 17.3 Flammability testing/可燃性测试 171
' u) i( }8 n% p 17.3.1 Forty-five degree angle test/45°燃烧测试法 171
; G! b, ?% I1 N& c- x% m 17.3.2 Vertical flame tests/垂直燃烧测试法 172
1 g( ], @# E. O# J9 j8 \ 17.3.3 Carpet testing/地毯测试 172
2 x) V3 G* h; P 17.3.4 Cigarette tests/卷烟点燃测试 172
1 O4 s0 @* A: V. _$ w; M- H. f 17.3.5 Other standard flammability tests/其他可燃性测试 173
$ Y+ Y$ n! L7 {) a# E& { Questions/思考题 173( `1 k6 c4 P" C
Chapter 18 Comfort of Textiles/纺织品舒适性 174
& B! b4 \: t4 k1 d! l 18.1 Physical phenomena affecting thermal comfort/影响热舒适性能的物理现象 174' V2 x. ~& e! u/ w5 D. j: ?6 q0 n5 r, _
18.1.1 Heat transfer/热传递 1742 v3 O6 z1 V- R& @% I6 F
18.1.2 Moisture transfer/湿传递 175) T% ?: V( L0 Q! G/ G3 J
18.1.3 Water resistance/抗水性 1750 {7 u8 G4 B7 Z" D
18.1.4 Air transfer/透气性 1763 }" D( q. U% a; L) e% ]0 B3 h0 ^
18.1.5 Porosity and cover factor/多孔性和覆盖系数 176
1 j! A$ R: W4 u& k9 z% s 18.1.6 Electrostatic propensity/静电 1777 A" G% Q- R8 P" f
18.2 Evaluations of textile properties related to comfort/与舒适性相关的纺织品性能评价 177- I5 o- F1 t8 y9 n# h* i
18.2.1 Heat transfer/热传递 178
% _1 u a" t3 d. }* M4 ~- W4 ?, ` 18.2.2 Moisture properties/湿传递性能 179
% i) P: W- N: K) ~ 18.2.3 Air permeability/透气性 179
- z: k6 y$ k9 |7 J' H& B 18.2.4 Porosity/孔隙率 1803 R" Y. a" U) X3 H& Y/ G6 M; q
18.2.5 Electrostatic tests/静电测试 180/ ]0 ]1 I* K$ U' h6 E
Questions/思考题 180* K( X4 t; d' v1 ^0 R
Appendix/附录 181
2 j" _) W1 I7 e2 @ AATCC:AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS/美国纺织化学家与染色家协会 181
* P1 M% H0 n" y5 Z0 u) B9 g2 D7 N ASTM:AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR TESTING AND MATERIALS/美国材料试验学会 184
! g6 c+ @& S# D- X. \Vocabulary/词汇表 1899 Q# k/ ^4 N6 d3 }& q) [
References/参考文献 197
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