
纺织材料学(双语教材),刘妍,熊磊,PDF。普通高等教育“十一五”国家级规划教材(本科),纺织工程专业双语教材,电子目录,14M。* \; C+ r/ d2 `
& s4 S2 f0 `: v% @7 Q, q内容提要
. ~+ r1 u6 _/ E* \* {本书讨论了纤维、纱线与织物(包括机织物、针织物及非织造布)的结构、机械性能、物理性能及使用性能。涉及的纤维势括天然纤维(如棉、毛、麻、丝等)、传统化学纤维及新型化学纤维。本书同时介绍了纤维、纱线和织物的各种标准测试方法(包括国际上常用的ASTM, AATCC及GB等方法),并讨论了与各种测试方法有关的测试原理及对测试结果的影响因素。
& I. I/ l2 v2 Q本书可供高等纺织院校纺织、服装相关专业的本科生及研究生作为《纺织材料学》的双语教材或专业英语教材,也可供其他专业师生、纺织贸易专业人员和科研及生产单位的技术人员参考。
5 |$ b0 y. I; O3 V: \5 Q; A$ h目录
; T G3 T. K8 {" p- |1 UPart Ⅰ An Introduction to Textiles/纺织入门 18& J1 z% b3 Q7 q6 s
Chapter 1 Introduction/介绍 18
2 x" r% E8 S) M* B0 C& R% U 1.1 ASTM Standard Terminology Relating to Textiles/ASTM纺织标准术语 186 |3 I f( F* m
1.2 Fiber history/纤维历史 26
, d' J) j3 H( L 1.2.1 Natural fibers/天然纤维 26
$ r5 }. i8 s$ A+ t" _ 1.2.2 Man-made fibers/化学纤维 278 s- f2 O/ f* `6 c: V9 S3 q
Questions/思考题 30! ]0 G+ ^) K' g3 d
Part Ⅱ Textile Fibers/纺织纤维 32# d) F, u, ]% {
Chapter 2 Natural Cellulosic Fibers/天然纤维素纤维 32' A0 u1 r) q5 s! K
2.1 Cotton/棉 338 B+ N6 K! j- b* {& g k
2.1.1 Nature of cotton/棉花的种类 33
% x7 ?# m( H, b b3 D 2.1.2 Classification/分类 348 g2 h2 v1 t# f: u
2.1.3 Growth and structure of cotton/棉纤维的生长与结构 34
( A) d9 ^0 i3 C7 l 2.1.4 Maturity/成熟度 36: w9 A+ G$ D6 z4 c# u% N% V
2.1.5 Cotton properties/棉纤维的性能 388 B5 W4 B$ x+ {3 c4 [0 y; q
2.1.6 Cotton classification/棉花分级 39
1 B% E" g: V( I! K 2.2 Bast fibers/韧皮纤维 40
- I" h# ?! A# P( I( U" e7 B 2.2.1 Flax (linen)/亚麻,亚麻织物 41' S. a, A# Q# M N# l6 T
2.2.2 Ramie/苎麻 43
+ \' Z% y4 y% i 2.2.3 Hemp/汉麻 44
/ Q. p1 c: ?- `+ _+ p 2.2.4 Jute/黄麻 44
3 P' D1 y1 W/ d2 h l4 j Questions/思考题 45
0 f* a/ G+ L+ s Chapter 3 Natural Protein Fibers/天然蛋白质纤维 46: _ l/ {! X( [5 H& q/ [1 k* e
3.1 Wool/绵羊毛 46
. I& U8 I2 }3 R5 C- w2 { 3.1.1 Wool production and history/羊毛生产和历史 462 k/ D+ c2 R) l* p5 B
3.1.2 Wool grading/羊毛分级 47; H# u" [$ T, h; F" C8 S
3.1.3 Wool structure/羊毛结构 47" M+ _& N5 ?+ j9 ]3 |
3.1.4 Wool properties/羊毛性能 486 C/ q& X$ _; s
3.2 Specialty animal fibers/特种动物毛 51
; H P- [, k/ M 3.3 Silk/丝 52
/ p2 l% l. ~" s7 L( S9 S* y2 @/ X Questions/思考题 54
: Q# @5 J) a$ v! }* a$ p Chapter 4 Man-made Fibers/化学纤维 55
- ?0 c o3 o, K$ u0 r5 ` 4.1 Manufacturing processing of fiber/纤维生产工艺 55
9 E3 C w5 B& W: x- U- o' ^( N 4.1.1 Wet spinning/湿法纺丝 56
- W, u0 p/ J. P 4.1.2 Dry spinning/干法纺丝 56, c( t% x4 E5 C; P# P0 z1 \
4.1.3 Melt spinning/熔体法纺丝 56( l0 b/ | E2 S7 b% ]8 {
4.1.4 Gel spinning/凝胶纺丝 57
/ n! h" u2 P3 p( C: L7 C 4.2 Regenerated fibers/再生纤维 57% g4 `3 R5 S( H% d
4.2.1 Acetate/醋酯纤维 575 y# p- C+ t _9 g5 p3 N1 H# ^' S `
4.2.2 Triacetate/三醋酯纤维 598 _ V8 l1 A! T' l% ~: C
4.2.3 Viscose fibers/粘胶纤维 59" d$ r( u1 d2 P
4.3 Synthetic fibers/合成纤维 60& q8 `3 [& }$ {' \! K% a* H
4.3.1 Acrylic/腈纶 60
5 z0 F+ Q5 @, i0 r! ~: h R4 g 4.3.2 Modacrylic/改性腈纶 61
+ h: ?# a% L% B' Y9 q 4.3.3 Nylon/锦纶 61
+ T" D3 [6 T3 D 4.3.4 Polyester/涤纶 62
0 }6 d" u7 o2 h; N7 f 4.3.5 PBI/聚苯并咪唑纤维 63
: c e/ s) T! } 4.3.6 Vinal/聚乙烯醇纤维 63
; i( m% f5 J( z8 ?- p) U 4.3.7 Olefin/聚烯烃纤维 63# @. D8 N2 R. ~1 L6 I! n
4.3.8 Aramid/芳纶 64
* M0 z/ }, F b3 `9 w 4.3.9 Lycra/莱卡 64" q3 f/ a P' H- i5 n& Q! [ A3 s
4.4 Other man-made fibers/其他化学纤维 666 x7 `) c) u" e% O% ^5 |8 u
4.4.1 Glass/玻璃纤维 66
1 ~( i4 U/ W1 D( Y- S 4.4.2 Metallic/金属纤维 67
$ x r- }% E# [1 k Questions/思考题 67
2 i8 S( s. Q6 c2 F Chapter 5 New Fibers/新型纤维 68! I* w2 o( r# ], f' x( s
5.1 Carbon fibers/碳纤维 68
! Z# M: G$ F# ~( C 5.2 Fluorocarbon/氟碳纤维 68
8 K2 H, {) p: N# z) T 5.3 Lyocell fibers(Tencel)/莱塞尔纤维 681 k( N, t: [ e s7 [" B0 H! d
5.4 High-wet-modulus fibers/高湿模量纤维 69( g: h! U9 h" }, i9 d7 m
5.4.1 Modal fibers/莫代尔纤维 69+ u- x0 H9 {' v) s" U6 S4 N
5.4.2 Richcel/丽赛纤维 70
4 r! `6 C& Q. I8 O7 K4 i9 Z 5.5 Soybean protein composite fibers/大豆蛋白复合纤维 70
, } z% C$ L2 L) ]0 T% N 5.6 PLA fiber/聚左旋乳酸纤维 71" A/ T7 a V5 \
5.7 Heterogenous fibers/复合纤维 71
2 N; ]5 B: L C; m: E 5.7.1 Bicomponent or multicomponent/双组分或多组分 72
) h; a6 k! N' F5 d8 E2 i 5.7.2 Biconstituent or multiconstituent/双成分或多成分 73( W* @0 t; t9 @( o4 c5 x; E. Y6 X7 ]+ T/ g
5.7.3 Matrix or matrix-fibril/基质型纤维 73
3 V$ r0 g$ _7 O$ u, Y/ h x 5.8 Differential fibers/差别化纤维 74' [0 M! U9 j: b
5.9 Functional fibers/功能性纤维 74( m- e' n2 z& ` r% w
5.10 High performance fibers/高性能纤维 748 g5 \5 G/ R2 r/ s0 M
Questions/思考题 74
+ N9 `. c) u5 C' o2 ?8 b' x8 E% _8 \ Chapter 6 The Property of Absorbing Moisture/吸湿性 75 k5 E% c: P% _9 O4 U# Y
6.1 Orientation and crystallization/取向与结晶 758 j* }7 d- F# N* s6 E" O% ]5 {8 z
6.2 Moisture sorption/吸湿性 75
% l0 U" v- N7 _# h9 P! V 6.2.1 Regain and moisture content/回潮率与含水率 75
3 H, p% |; z6 j 6.2.2 Relation between regain and relative humidity/回潮率与相对湿度的关系 756 s; x/ Y1 w( U; O% v
6.2.3 Comparison of various materials/不同材料吸湿性的对比 764 }' T) f# e2 { i
6.2.4 Theories of moisture sorption/吸湿理论 78+ `; T: l/ Q' P, ]% }
Questions/思考题 80; d2 ]* s' h; X, P% B0 K' B2 z
Chapter 7 Other Physical Properties of Textile Fibers/纤维的其他物理性能 81( r, y# i5 Z, b8 C8 B7 ?
7.1 Electronic properties/电学性能 81
& u7 Q u0 ~0 Z' {0 D 7.1.1 Definitions/定义 81
6 F9 |1 B+ ~. P9 i1 e 7.2 Optical properties/光学性能 82
3 s. Q ]/ t0 Y8 ^) y4 V 7.3 Thermal properties/热学性能 834 N3 d5 i3 i1 e8 z# L
7.3.1 Thermal parameters/热力学参数 83$ |: e7 c5 b b
7.3.2 A comparison of temperature effects/温度效应比较 83
& I& _* d3 k$ y o6 W Questions/思考题 83( y' z3 a; a$ J
Part Ⅲ Textile Yarns/纺织纱线 84
; H* G9 F+ R3 q, D5 w3 U Chapter 8 Yarn Processing and Construction/纱线制造与结构 846 h( x+ U! e- ~8 X) g0 p
8.1 Spun yarns/短纤纱 85 ] R; ? e \7 [% O5 @
8.2 Filament yarns/长丝纱 85
" |6 {: F0 y7 G J% M) U 8.3 Methods of yarn processing/纺纱方法 85( E6 I+ t( e4 }/ n1 i4 O9 X+ z
8.3.1 Ring-spinning/环锭纺 86; S; B/ F- p2 N. B
8.3.2 New methods of yarn processing/新型纺纱方法 86
W8 H# `3 T1 v& Q6 r 8.4 Single and ply yarns/单纱和股线 89
, l- p( B/ Y( m. A% M% t9 P0 ?3 o 8.5 Special types of yarn/特种纱线 90* U+ e0 m1 g$ u" g) Q* g! S, t. V' j
8.5.1 Fancy yarns/花式纱 90
3 w. f" b, T6 O0 p) v) c" V5 d 8.5.2 Stretch yarns/弹力纱 91' S9 @- F" M* L0 ]# z0 A6 C
8.5.3 Textured yarns 变形纱线 91
- h$ ]5 N/ D: l, O 8.6 Blends and mixtures yarns/纱线混纺与混用 925 N* ]: P: u# \! Q! U( S4 W2 C3 u+ V
Questions/思考题 93
) i" J+ i# M9 U- Q Chapter 9 Yarn Properties/纱线性能 94, k# L1 L& O0 {; X
9.1 Yarn number/纱线细度 94
' y( j% c- N P 9.1.1 Denier system/旦数 94
* w" {: z9 b. y" O2 D 9.1.2 Yarn count system/纱线英制支数 94- K: [) g. l, `( P$ n
9.1.3 Tex system/线密度 95
+ o; p, `5 m2 }% ^! k 9.1.4 Metric numbering system/公制支数 95' x. H, Y8 \- s6 s% d; Z
9.1.5 Conversion in different systems/不同系统之间的换算 95
5 F* v$ a9 G, Q d ?, z* P6 p 9.2 Ply yarn counts and singles equivalent/股线支数与单纱支数 950 C' B/ T) O$ g- f
9.3 Yarn twist/纱线捻度 96
& W0 y1 ?) a6 W0 B 9.4 Yarn hairiness/纱线毛羽 974 t4 H7 _6 v& q
9.4.1 Hairiness test method/毛羽测试方法 98! ]: J6 L9 g' D, D
9.4.2 Factors affecting hairiness/影响毛羽的因素 98! t/ I' x5 k: A/ L1 |: J
9.5 Yarn unevenness/纱线不匀 99. f- `( q1 B- G- W/ U0 Y
9.5.1 Test of yarn unevenness/纱线不匀的测试 996 Z& m) l/ F( p/ l/ Z8 P+ o" g
9.5.2 Reasons for yarn unevenness/纱线不匀的原因 100
$ j, ~! ^# I/ a# Y! p2 w 9.6 Classification of yarn quality/纱线质量分析 100
3 l# K7 r$ y$ c/ i Questions/思考题 100
, E4 J2 h% g; m8 ^Part Ⅳ Textile Fabrics/织物 102# S7 M. K: j- k6 E
Chapter 10 Woven Fabrics/机织物 102
3 G" ?3 i( R4 F 10.1 Making woven fabrics/织制机织物 102( M$ K/ `4 I# Q1 o+ K3 Y
10.1.1 The loom/织机 1025 S. @( U. a7 ?+ r2 k" n% K N
10.1.2 Loom type/织机类型 104
/ d5 ^/ M7 a" P+ {$ ^6 i9 ` 10.1.3 Loom motions/织机运动 1041 T+ X# z/ W. x0 j% N2 v
10.1.4 Electronics in weaving/电子技术在织机中的应用 105' F" A6 J- \$ Q+ L5 V$ ?/ f
10.1.5 The selvage/布边 105- ]1 @' C1 `9 w: A
10.2 Warp yarns and filling yarns/经纱和纬纱 1055 y0 {3 z( `- @. o8 O: C) Q6 P
10.2.1 Identification/鉴别 106 ^) {$ V( {; z3 u2 @3 h# }3 b
10.3 Face and back/正面与反面 1063 s) x0 m0 l/ z- G6 v# G
10.3.1 Reasons for differenee/存在差异的原因 107* [8 i6 h" p" J9 ^
10.3.2 Caution/应用的要点 1072 I: m; ^" m9 D! f
10.4 Top and bottom/顶端和底端 107
& L6 U2 N* E7 P5 [( }2 f) ] 10.4.1 Reasons for difference/存在差异的原因 107* N' [" K4 {! v2 c) K
10.5 Weave floats/组织浮线 1081 H1 U, i, O0 u2 b2 V5 N1 ?
10.6 Basic weaves/基本组织 108
* q6 B' ?& \* \ @, ?! w Z 10.6.1 Plain weave/平纹组织 108. u: u: Z& X* h$ G- U6 z6 m7 r: }
10.6.2 Twill weave/斜纹组织 109
( Z2 }5 _" S1 y" f2 U 10.6.3 Satin weave/缎纹组织 111
1 i2 c6 c) w5 f. K 10.7 Fabric performance and characteristics/织物性能和参数 112
# U) o, r' p1 d1 Z2 s 10.7.1 Fabric width/幅宽 112
7 i5 h K1 l1 i( @ 10.7.2 Fabric weight/织物重量 1126 M; Q$ I3 L8 Q
10.7.3 Fabric thickness/织物厚度 113
7 |% L- S ]+ g# o% ^$ d) X7 S& U 10.7.4 Fabric density/织物密度 113* w* a. A+ _& D5 S2 z+ K9 t
10.7.5 Fabric count/织物经纬密度 113
; {' {( M+ y$ k- `# P2 w8 N3 t) Q 10.7.6 Fabric defects/织物疵点 113
2 [3 O6 S, E8 ]! v4 e. g7 D' n Questions/思考题 113
% G5 v; J+ b# d4 M5 v Chapter 11 Knitted Fabrics/针织物 114
3 u: h, D8 O. |2 I' }' w( | 11.1 Making of knitted fabric/针织物形成 1148 w7 w: b5 h1 M0 r5 [
11.1.1 The forming of knitted stitches/线圈的形成 114 `9 S' n% V$ X; k( u
11.1.2 Types of knitted stitches/线圈的种类 1161 S; Z8 Q0 e+ M, k, m
11.2 Weft knits/纬编针织物 117
- H* z `# a- \, `# I; u& W/ r 11.2.1 Jersey knit fabric/纬平针织物 1174 r" w/ [3 L( ^* l
11.2.2 Rib knit fabric/罗纹针织物 118
) X5 K0 H4 }( L; d) e" h 11.2.3 Purl knit fabric/双反面针织物 1199 B6 `! r. _8 D+ x \
11.2.4 Double knits/双面针织物 1202 a1 N; H6 ~* r9 K) |
11.2.5 Full-fashioned knits/全成形针织物 120
0 P% ^0 k R. T6 W; S 11.3 Warp knits/经编针织物 121. h; \ T& m1 ^- y3 [3 a
11.3.1 Tricot fabrics/特里科经编针织物 121$ W8 Y) I( u% X1 A
11.3.2 Raschel fabrics/拉舍尔经编针织物 122, ~% F! w( `: C! ?, N1 }; q' b* }' W" v/ V
11.4 Performance and characteristics/性能和参数 122
- c2 H. d) n& f1 ]; f! T0 b Questions/思考题 123, X7 W# {( d I+ _* J
Chapter 12 Nonwoven Fabrics/非织造布 124
3 Q. I/ J- | }1 i- g# N2 Q 12.1 Introduction/导论 124
* [, L) ~& f, ]) q 12.2 Manufacturing methods/生产方法 125' l$ |& |5 h# ?" J9 f$ Q
12.2.1 Dry laid system/干法成网 125) X! W9 I5 R7 C2 z W/ n/ A
12.2.2 Wet laid system/湿法成网 125
, C& S& j% Q4 p$ C3 Q# c6 B, W; w 12.2.3 Polymer laid system/聚合物挤压法 125
' w& o: [; _( Q. V 12.3 Various nonwovens/各种非织造布 1254 j/ E8 [; z- [9 h9 Y8 d1 c
12.3.1 Needle punched nonwovens/针刺法非织造布 125
* E: X% ^- B/ `4 Z, ^ 12.3.2 Bonded web nonwovens/黏合法非织造布 1262 _2 [$ O4 r4 f9 f
12.3.3 Spunlaced nonwovens/射流喷网法非织造布 1270 r8 z: ?8 J; S$ M: \
12.3.4 Spunbonded nonwovens/纺粘法非织造布 128
V/ K% u. T; J! V0 M$ L 12.3.5 Melt-blown nonwovens/熔喷法非织造布 1295 @+ B1 B2 ]1 G# F7 q* c
Questions/思考题 129
' h1 z) }& E+ @: Y2 o: f. uPart Ⅴ Textile Testing/纺织品测试 130. W) r: \+ i; Q8 B' B3 |% i
Chapter 13 General Test Methods/常规测试方法 1304 t- N# U2 _. \& D8 d
13.1 General fiber tests/纤维常规测试 130/ b6 i9 h, A0 O# ]
13.1.1 Fiber identification/纤维鉴别 1300 Y! @8 W$ O Q6 h' j7 T
13.1.2 Fiber length/纤维长度 134
- u4 P$ l$ S9 h6 @1 x 13.1.3 Fiber fineness or linear density/纤维细度或线密度 135
! W/ b# H; L7 x9 ?7 h+ v' `' J 13.1.4 Cross-sectional shape/截面形状 135% k/ g" c3 M+ M" j5 c" E" ^$ E
13.1.5 Crimp/卷曲 135: \( ]& | V% R- L$ d; m
13.1.6 Regain/回潮率 136* K$ [6 ]0 q/ [$ D f! Y W
13.1.7 Mechanical properties/机械性能 136
% E! Q {% `# j) k$ Z9 n5 m 13.1.8 Chemical characteristics/化学性能 136
. z9 A; u! h( J1 B5 v 13.1.9 Surface characteristics/表面性能 136
& [: S/ [0 Y" Q 13.1.10 Density and specific gravity/密度和相对密度 137 D* @+ p; B# I8 b, k L% W0 F
13.2 Special tests for natural fibers/天然纤维的测试 137. i/ x# o, _" A) Q, g" k
13.2.1 Tests for cotton/棉纤维测试 137
4 x L4 G* L+ O% K: n/ M r, f# k 13.2.2 Tests for wool/毛纤维测试 139
. q1 f3 G- o: x6 G$ S1 } 13.3 Testing of tensile properties/拉伸性能测试 140
/ q, \3 N, d2 H 13.3.1 Description of tensile proprieties/拉伸性能的描述 141
9 z0 p: j5 z+ J. H/ l 13.3.2 Fiber and yarn tensile testing/纤维和纱线拉伸性能的测试 1467 d# u( N+ s* Q' K" b
13.3.3 Fabric tensile testing/织物拉伸性能测试方法 147
6 [. ^$ H# v* G5 f/ [1 M% @) D Questions/思考题 149* c6 F0 j* z3 Q+ f
Chapter 14 Fabric Abrasion and Pilling/织物磨损与起球 150+ Z6 U' V( G) L$ r n, c
14.1 Types of abrasion/磨损的类型 150
) v' v7 K# Z% M7 L$ o 14.1.1 Abrasion between fabrics/织物间的磨损 150
( K! G" B' r. `3 x7 l2 \ 14.1.2 Abrasion between fabric and a nontextile surface/织物与非纤维制品表面磨损 150
" C" f3 c& s8 T0 } 14.1.3 Abrasion within fabric/织物内部磨损 151
: I3 P1 s, \; z; W4 p 14.1.4 Abrasion by foreign materials within the fabric/与织物内部其他材料的磨损 151
9 U- Y" O* b; z+ X1 A5 @ 14.2 Factors affecting fabric abrasion resistance/影响耐磨性能的因素 151
. ^+ j. `/ Z8 J. r0 p 14.2.1 Fabric properties/织物性能 151) {4 A j/ s: U+ e
14.2.2 Other factors/其他因素 153
( [( n( r: y; w 14.3 Abrasion testing/磨损测试 1542 d% ~$ R( p8 |5 h6 M
14.3.1 Visual comparison with an unabraded specimen/与未磨损样品视觉对比 1541 O& J2 ^) w+ s4 v. T( U
14.3.2 Number of cycles to produce a hole/产生磨损破洞需要的摩擦圈数 154 O, P1 Z8 \. o9 s; w
14.3.3 Change in a physical property/物理性能的变化 154
+ ?, }: q B% Q' ]( t9 V 14.3.4 Microscopic examination/显微镜观测 1554 }- `0 r; f" D. ^( o
14.4 Aesthetics of abrasion and wear/穿着和磨损对美感的影响 155
) K+ H5 F4 }' w; J 14.4.1 Color changes caused by abrasion/磨损引起的颜色变化 155
, ?/ y7 O, S& I6 E9 R& j; _ 14.4.2 Pilling/起球 156
' }) Y! X, J2 \: j6 Q& C Questions/思考题 157
' F. B4 o2 V' g Chapter 15 Fabric Hand and Drape/织物手感与悬垂 158
0 ]5 a' [( S- C* g! G. ^8 @2 Y 15.1 Fabric hand/织物手感 158" @3 j, I# T1 ?- s& R" K4 y7 ~
15.2 Fabric drape/织物悬垂 159' }% E5 ^% Q$ G% ~- y' N
15.3 Measurement of hand and drape/手感与悬垂的评价 161
0 n% `+ I! O9 \1 u Q! G 15.3.1 Subjective evaluation/主观评定法 161
7 v0 n: m, w7 V: T2 E3 W 15.3.2 Quantitative measurement/定量评定法 162% H/ b. N, e* Q6 J
15.3.3 Kawabata evaluation system/KES评定法 163
Z9 x7 f; f1 o2 ~5 S( Q Questions/思考题 1634 r+ m8 T0 p, H4 A
Chapter 16 Fabric Colorfastness/织物染色牢度 164
1 v6 p5 q1 i3 l. [4 F 16.1 Evaluation of color and colorfastness/颜色和染色牢度评定方法 164- f E: V6 r' d" k% ?
16.2 Colorfastness tests/染色牢度测试 164" p. Z6 a7 t H2 q
16.2.1 Colorfastness to crocking/耐摩擦色牢度 164
) l, V9 W6 ]8 a 16.2.2 Colorfastness to laundering and bleaching/耐洗涤和耐漂白色牢 165
9 f) r0 {; s5 S/ \ R, @, B 16.2.3 Colorfastness to drycleaning/耐干洗色牢度 1666 ^$ u' [, h) m& `7 f! h3 m
16.2.4 Colorfastness to perspiration/耐汗渍色牢度 166
% H% e; v2 _' }/ y! V7 k0 ? 16.2.5 Colorfastness to water/耐水浸色牢度 166
8 s2 b ~- V+ y5 _5 R 16.2.6 Colorfastness to light/耐光照色牢度 167
. N5 F6 @8 J3 D, I1 T, j- j 16.2.7 Colorfastness to atmospheric contaminants/耐空气污染色牢度 168
7 g- k8 E; N7 F# ?: a/ C Questions/思考题 168! q' O" W! R& n4 H% U
Chapter 17 Fabric Flammability/织物可燃性 1699 \6 V6 n# \6 e S8 d' ?: r
17.1 Flammability standards/可燃性标准 169' g, C+ i0 A! J/ v% R7 Q( ?3 `" q
17.2 Properties affecting flammability/影响可燃性的因素 169& b) v. @! j `# x2 z0 B- H0 p
17.3 Flammability testing/可燃性测试 1714 o( g: O0 I$ X4 e
17.3.1 Forty-five degree angle test/45°燃烧测试法 171
: s0 m _ N6 [5 W: k5 ^6 k1 G- n 17.3.2 Vertical flame tests/垂直燃烧测试法 1728 [& Y, S/ F& ^- a( U
17.3.3 Carpet testing/地毯测试 172
& ?" d+ }" C+ B+ F& [4 }! i2 G 17.3.4 Cigarette tests/卷烟点燃测试 172+ k* i2 n& w: K5 j3 l i
17.3.5 Other standard flammability tests/其他可燃性测试 173
9 Q$ `+ @, ?* q& Q Questions/思考题 1737 G! |, j) Z# N0 c2 x% m
Chapter 18 Comfort of Textiles/纺织品舒适性 174
6 {* `" [; K% h& Q$ o, n ^& a 18.1 Physical phenomena affecting thermal comfort/影响热舒适性能的物理现象 174
* e2 `7 e2 t+ V4 f, J" T) R 18.1.1 Heat transfer/热传递 174
% J1 X9 G. X3 U; ?$ F I, |5 u. R 18.1.2 Moisture transfer/湿传递 175 O. c- ^" S, f7 `3 e' @, C( e
18.1.3 Water resistance/抗水性 1753 A' `& y( B( \2 r
18.1.4 Air transfer/透气性 1760 s8 L1 O/ w5 X
18.1.5 Porosity and cover factor/多孔性和覆盖系数 176
4 @. ~9 S4 W( C! F 18.1.6 Electrostatic propensity/静电 177
5 f/ I! e1 w" e# e; w 18.2 Evaluations of textile properties related to comfort/与舒适性相关的纺织品性能评价 177
5 f$ ]8 E, P- Z5 M/ a9 @6 o) W: p( G 18.2.1 Heat transfer/热传递 1784 P, p) F2 F _7 y! N
18.2.2 Moisture properties/湿传递性能 179
+ J. q) z' p6 x8 E s7 y( ^ 18.2.3 Air permeability/透气性 179
- O. H5 ]+ {( ~ P4 D 18.2.4 Porosity/孔隙率 180
: j: G! v; N0 i- m- { 18.2.5 Electrostatic tests/静电测试 180
8 M, X6 d# E( q% U+ y/ C Questions/思考题 180 B' o$ L# _/ [
Appendix/附录 181% t& O; Z8 o" ^) R2 n' A
AATCC:AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS/美国纺织化学家与染色家协会 181
* T% o( l( C: s$ X$ B: d ASTM:AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR TESTING AND MATERIALS/美国材料试验学会 184
5 a8 G, F9 e' o5 Q4 ?5 mVocabulary/词汇表 189
6 s2 G# y/ m' p. t% |& @! V+ u% \$ rReferences/参考文献 197' E0 o$ ^' ~; L ~ A1 i
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