
纺织材料学(双语教材),刘妍,熊磊,PDF。普通高等教育“十一五”国家级规划教材(本科),纺织工程专业双语教材,电子目录,14M。! H+ z; E" h* E9 S/ H
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内容提要+ z) z5 A+ ]5 E; N1 ^; p
本书讨论了纤维、纱线与织物(包括机织物、针织物及非织造布)的结构、机械性能、物理性能及使用性能。涉及的纤维势括天然纤维(如棉、毛、麻、丝等)、传统化学纤维及新型化学纤维。本书同时介绍了纤维、纱线和织物的各种标准测试方法(包括国际上常用的ASTM, AATCC及GB等方法),并讨论了与各种测试方法有关的测试原理及对测试结果的影响因素。
2 N! p( L9 Y+ a) P3 _本书可供高等纺织院校纺织、服装相关专业的本科生及研究生作为《纺织材料学》的双语教材或专业英语教材,也可供其他专业师生、纺织贸易专业人员和科研及生产单位的技术人员参考。5 N0 ^! |$ u% M: E: ~
目录
$ P4 K5 ?1 @1 S pPart Ⅰ An Introduction to Textiles/纺织入门 18
1 X. X0 f7 r6 S. d Chapter 1 Introduction/介绍 18
7 U9 W: g' _, q1 d 1.1 ASTM Standard Terminology Relating to Textiles/ASTM纺织标准术语 18
) A5 m) I* T& M 1.2 Fiber history/纤维历史 26
% n7 r, x! r g 1.2.1 Natural fibers/天然纤维 26
/ K- d& j! A4 R5 c1 Q1 \) r! l 1.2.2 Man-made fibers/化学纤维 27
! D7 F# d9 i i2 ^& r Questions/思考题 304 c" O& v& U% g: ?& \
Part Ⅱ Textile Fibers/纺织纤维 32
0 |+ q' o" A6 M" G: ~, l# p Chapter 2 Natural Cellulosic Fibers/天然纤维素纤维 32' `- I3 }" N7 u
2.1 Cotton/棉 33
3 \! P) \: W8 s$ d& A# {6 M5 X 2.1.1 Nature of cotton/棉花的种类 334 Y4 q6 h. D) e! ]( K8 o, I
2.1.2 Classification/分类 340 g S5 N# |, M& b! N
2.1.3 Growth and structure of cotton/棉纤维的生长与结构 343 f6 c% c6 |% y) i# p
2.1.4 Maturity/成熟度 362 G8 r) w9 t* H9 U/ J
2.1.5 Cotton properties/棉纤维的性能 38( E5 t; a) Z) j
2.1.6 Cotton classification/棉花分级 398 c* L7 F$ {& G% P! t2 ^
2.2 Bast fibers/韧皮纤维 40
h/ Q% E' h( i; n* j8 ~ 2.2.1 Flax (linen)/亚麻,亚麻织物 41$ h) \. j& y9 m8 Y$ n: N$ g" M% v
2.2.2 Ramie/苎麻 43* ~0 W Y8 D7 L* L% m' [ B
2.2.3 Hemp/汉麻 440 T( @5 |$ i) Q. G2 q4 h( V% b
2.2.4 Jute/黄麻 44' s" {% P r% a, ~0 I1 ^
Questions/思考题 45# f# I% v# U: x& ?; u) f
Chapter 3 Natural Protein Fibers/天然蛋白质纤维 46
% K5 s6 v9 J6 N( g$ } 3.1 Wool/绵羊毛 464 L7 `0 U3 r3 g @4 U
3.1.1 Wool production and history/羊毛生产和历史 46
$ O' s" h; W; j" ], S' N; ] 3.1.2 Wool grading/羊毛分级 47
( a* K9 U( }' m/ G4 {5 e 3.1.3 Wool structure/羊毛结构 477 t; D: a+ n0 @8 U" c3 o
3.1.4 Wool properties/羊毛性能 48
; f: V J7 O5 S# J! h( k6 F. ] 3.2 Specialty animal fibers/特种动物毛 51- M3 H* Q( z3 P0 g; K
3.3 Silk/丝 521 C \0 u- b* W
Questions/思考题 54
) J" H$ r1 O5 `& o! \) g, @ Chapter 4 Man-made Fibers/化学纤维 55
% f' a3 P) B T) D, |6 Y2 s, s 4.1 Manufacturing processing of fiber/纤维生产工艺 55, h. a3 t6 G4 ] F1 M+ g
4.1.1 Wet spinning/湿法纺丝 56
0 f4 R) |% F8 f) ?/ ^& L( B! E% c0 l 4.1.2 Dry spinning/干法纺丝 56
0 k i& r$ p* x9 V% Q# h* _) z 4.1.3 Melt spinning/熔体法纺丝 56' }" t& y- f/ _' Y
4.1.4 Gel spinning/凝胶纺丝 577 C' `: ^' h8 K. Z z
4.2 Regenerated fibers/再生纤维 57
3 p+ L$ e& b5 L5 `" C 4.2.1 Acetate/醋酯纤维 571 W: j* Z2 {# K6 ^
4.2.2 Triacetate/三醋酯纤维 59
@ c5 R3 z3 W' b 4.2.3 Viscose fibers/粘胶纤维 59" N% W1 Q/ O* I) W2 ?
4.3 Synthetic fibers/合成纤维 60
8 G$ X# n7 g1 g- ^7 M. J 4.3.1 Acrylic/腈纶 60
- B* n+ H/ d( q8 Z" V3 B1 u 4.3.2 Modacrylic/改性腈纶 61
0 n' n: L: A( S1 K 4.3.3 Nylon/锦纶 61
# F' [' s( n7 R! e! I9 t- C9 [ 4.3.4 Polyester/涤纶 623 {" Z" g6 g6 ~' [( Q5 z4 S
4.3.5 PBI/聚苯并咪唑纤维 63
% ?7 P" t* {( h8 p# Q0 s6 \ 4.3.6 Vinal/聚乙烯醇纤维 63# A3 d2 E0 e2 p @3 f( i5 Y
4.3.7 Olefin/聚烯烃纤维 63) m& Y) q( j. s+ K
4.3.8 Aramid/芳纶 64
4 Z9 y- ]! ^' Y8 ~2 `" m 4.3.9 Lycra/莱卡 643 k6 p, `& x2 s0 K4 n, F' E% B
4.4 Other man-made fibers/其他化学纤维 66: D; g/ B, E: [* M
4.4.1 Glass/玻璃纤维 66
' F! M9 x! Q( m7 V 4.4.2 Metallic/金属纤维 67
7 @3 f: h( Y7 Q% z }2 ~ Questions/思考题 67% U6 K6 s2 R r: ~- v1 G* q$ b8 V" T
Chapter 5 New Fibers/新型纤维 688 n# E1 V$ {# t8 R, E/ D7 V
5.1 Carbon fibers/碳纤维 68* C$ K2 i+ t2 O# i0 J( L
5.2 Fluorocarbon/氟碳纤维 68; C0 |* h( s. W- C
5.3 Lyocell fibers(Tencel)/莱塞尔纤维 68
* k. G9 l0 |6 t* R 5.4 High-wet-modulus fibers/高湿模量纤维 69
f) z! [3 v0 G# v 5.4.1 Modal fibers/莫代尔纤维 69
- N) V3 s! {& m7 |; s J9 ?0 {; [ 5.4.2 Richcel/丽赛纤维 70
8 S* b+ V0 ?5 A 5.5 Soybean protein composite fibers/大豆蛋白复合纤维 70
@, e: `% a0 D5 j0 @ 5.6 PLA fiber/聚左旋乳酸纤维 71. }! |! U0 D( R6 V
5.7 Heterogenous fibers/复合纤维 71* s- A9 f( h3 y% z" m
5.7.1 Bicomponent or multicomponent/双组分或多组分 728 D2 \+ s1 @0 L6 H
5.7.2 Biconstituent or multiconstituent/双成分或多成分 73
& A% M& X& O. n y7 w& N3 i$ u: p 5.7.3 Matrix or matrix-fibril/基质型纤维 73
( B* W, @4 @$ _! j 5.8 Differential fibers/差别化纤维 74
0 |2 ]- Y# h. N" _4 ? 5.9 Functional fibers/功能性纤维 74; l5 A3 E3 F3 @/ ]
5.10 High performance fibers/高性能纤维 740 R" H4 h( A3 w( M
Questions/思考题 745 a2 I- w2 @( ?- m5 {4 D" U( e# a
Chapter 6 The Property of Absorbing Moisture/吸湿性 75
6 H$ D, r' J, S# t3 l 6.1 Orientation and crystallization/取向与结晶 75
. t) K4 x% L0 N1 M, c$ t K 6.2 Moisture sorption/吸湿性 753 x9 `& |9 J8 E4 \8 Z' G5 b5 x
6.2.1 Regain and moisture content/回潮率与含水率 75 [ |, f$ M+ X( w3 v
6.2.2 Relation between regain and relative humidity/回潮率与相对湿度的关系 75& v. L1 ]( p( r* q5 w. u
6.2.3 Comparison of various materials/不同材料吸湿性的对比 76" x2 K3 E# B. A! f% ^
6.2.4 Theories of moisture sorption/吸湿理论 782 h8 p8 D6 `8 j+ E: e
Questions/思考题 80
9 y+ {3 `# }, M2 n: @9 v Chapter 7 Other Physical Properties of Textile Fibers/纤维的其他物理性能 813 R. W8 m* J2 L- g' }/ i" J
7.1 Electronic properties/电学性能 818 [6 P9 B. ^" {4 C. ~
7.1.1 Definitions/定义 814 p& b1 A7 B: f7 J* l, ?( h
7.2 Optical properties/光学性能 82
1 U; O) Z! q% L( \; s: @! ^5 h3 w" V 7.3 Thermal properties/热学性能 83/ x# m; {/ d' A2 B* B8 i7 q
7.3.1 Thermal parameters/热力学参数 83
0 I0 D; y9 ^9 F9 i. d! z8 O/ r 7.3.2 A comparison of temperature effects/温度效应比较 83& F, {: o& e& x, a0 k' h, |- e
Questions/思考题 83* ~ m7 \% w! r
Part Ⅲ Textile Yarns/纺织纱线 84; z, @7 U$ P# R7 n5 C
Chapter 8 Yarn Processing and Construction/纱线制造与结构 840 M6 F' i" ~* Q' r1 x
8.1 Spun yarns/短纤纱 85 R! M7 [! S( s) n+ _
8.2 Filament yarns/长丝纱 85+ x9 y7 w# {$ I% F7 j3 l
8.3 Methods of yarn processing/纺纱方法 85
1 R" v0 o6 s# z, \1 l 8.3.1 Ring-spinning/环锭纺 86
x( |. n4 R' D" \2 F 8.3.2 New methods of yarn processing/新型纺纱方法 865 n4 p# }: r# D4 V6 t
8.4 Single and ply yarns/单纱和股线 89; q7 G$ l. O/ k8 i3 H$ e4 u( R4 {
8.5 Special types of yarn/特种纱线 90( O+ @2 ]* S& J9 g2 s# B9 ~
8.5.1 Fancy yarns/花式纱 90! M' m+ G/ A0 e( z3 @5 v
8.5.2 Stretch yarns/弹力纱 91+ b2 X* y: M- L5 l
8.5.3 Textured yarns 变形纱线 91
1 e, T6 S( ^4 G, r9 |+ Q) J 8.6 Blends and mixtures yarns/纱线混纺与混用 929 z+ F" l: v3 t6 ?+ T5 ^0 x( `% M( J
Questions/思考题 934 K. M/ p" A4 u5 A" G
Chapter 9 Yarn Properties/纱线性能 94/ {9 F8 v7 s/ N6 x3 P) T$ \* i
9.1 Yarn number/纱线细度 940 V2 m% ^. Y/ O0 D7 h' {$ ]. n
9.1.1 Denier system/旦数 94/ Y7 A' v- Z, x" g" Z0 Z
9.1.2 Yarn count system/纱线英制支数 94
4 `$ b4 S+ T( ]+ @) L' J 9.1.3 Tex system/线密度 95: \9 Q2 ^3 j+ J. o2 x8 C
9.1.4 Metric numbering system/公制支数 95
# b5 h( x1 l9 |) A3 \ 9.1.5 Conversion in different systems/不同系统之间的换算 95* `9 a& K$ _- _4 P2 G3 V
9.2 Ply yarn counts and singles equivalent/股线支数与单纱支数 95
/ V f1 l, o5 u% w! p V 9.3 Yarn twist/纱线捻度 96. p. C J/ E# j0 z7 `- W3 w; {
9.4 Yarn hairiness/纱线毛羽 97) t( S- ^" `) K: W
9.4.1 Hairiness test method/毛羽测试方法 98. ^* U' H$ A$ c# ?$ s
9.4.2 Factors affecting hairiness/影响毛羽的因素 98! y! ]2 Y! g, P
9.5 Yarn unevenness/纱线不匀 99
* p5 y7 _6 ^: ~. V 9.5.1 Test of yarn unevenness/纱线不匀的测试 993 b7 M9 P, z, v
9.5.2 Reasons for yarn unevenness/纱线不匀的原因 1007 y1 R$ k+ F: z% ~& s* J" d6 V6 U
9.6 Classification of yarn quality/纱线质量分析 100
$ v( k" M7 P) n6 ~" x+ t Questions/思考题 1003 f4 T+ V- } Y* Y/ J
Part Ⅳ Textile Fabrics/织物 1025 a7 J$ {1 A- b' n: v8 p+ }
Chapter 10 Woven Fabrics/机织物 102( g: ^) ~, _0 y, A8 Q6 ^7 i
10.1 Making woven fabrics/织制机织物 1023 f* g" D. ^& V' X
10.1.1 The loom/织机 102
4 U" c, \$ e3 A' H$ ]) L 10.1.2 Loom type/织机类型 104% l" ?2 G' N+ [
10.1.3 Loom motions/织机运动 1048 G" T4 P# A' e- k) s2 C" ~
10.1.4 Electronics in weaving/电子技术在织机中的应用 105
" ?' i8 R. O& P$ E# |9 a W8 _ 10.1.5 The selvage/布边 105
1 l" W* `, K1 ]/ ?& `5 b1 u 10.2 Warp yarns and filling yarns/经纱和纬纱 1050 e0 Q# r& i! @4 `- q
10.2.1 Identification/鉴别 106( h% f) f$ T n
10.3 Face and back/正面与反面 106
) c6 y" j/ A3 ~, L# Y3 }6 ~ 10.3.1 Reasons for differenee/存在差异的原因 107. h0 v5 N+ ^3 A8 I2 m4 U5 H
10.3.2 Caution/应用的要点 1070 p/ g6 x3 `. X% h# ?
10.4 Top and bottom/顶端和底端 107
+ ]: q: K. x* C5 Q6 ~ 10.4.1 Reasons for difference/存在差异的原因 107
" Z# ]0 t& {$ C, X3 E3 V 10.5 Weave floats/组织浮线 1089 z% S# V4 F- S# b
10.6 Basic weaves/基本组织 108
3 K/ q% s/ S: X/ h 10.6.1 Plain weave/平纹组织 1084 C+ h! g9 n6 F _
10.6.2 Twill weave/斜纹组织 109! z9 J% W. x5 ]* b9 ?$ G5 d
10.6.3 Satin weave/缎纹组织 111
& |: ~3 O9 F, z; Q/ d1 \3 N 10.7 Fabric performance and characteristics/织物性能和参数 1126 K: N& m$ V1 {8 y8 A0 ?
10.7.1 Fabric width/幅宽 1127 Z# {# I, {+ a8 }% q' ^" p! q
10.7.2 Fabric weight/织物重量 112
. |1 S* k) Z) B# T0 M% L* B1 D 10.7.3 Fabric thickness/织物厚度 113
1 b* b/ k- K% [' x" A" t, _ 10.7.4 Fabric density/织物密度 113; W+ y8 \. p# u$ ]* Z( M7 ]
10.7.5 Fabric count/织物经纬密度 113
8 o2 H$ ^1 P$ F0 m, a6 n 10.7.6 Fabric defects/织物疵点 113
e3 n. T* U, S9 u( ^. s) A9 u Questions/思考题 113" O" b, E2 d4 P' y1 P
Chapter 11 Knitted Fabrics/针织物 114
. x; l* q* ^1 E$ e2 X 11.1 Making of knitted fabric/针织物形成 114
4 {) S7 G- }$ t {- M. A$ P, { 11.1.1 The forming of knitted stitches/线圈的形成 1140 b2 Q. H9 [! F0 P8 j' ~ h
11.1.2 Types of knitted stitches/线圈的种类 116& r/ i2 F, V- n7 X. G# m6 h9 r3 r
11.2 Weft knits/纬编针织物 117
9 h: A7 Z9 A% F& U* ? 11.2.1 Jersey knit fabric/纬平针织物 1173 l7 c8 h! t$ g8 k& x3 ~6 \$ f
11.2.2 Rib knit fabric/罗纹针织物 118
% S% T% v' \8 \# p% u* y5 T 11.2.3 Purl knit fabric/双反面针织物 119
; ^) d$ l% Q& \7 k9 d& P6 u7 ] 11.2.4 Double knits/双面针织物 120
9 W# |( q% k7 `$ U 11.2.5 Full-fashioned knits/全成形针织物 120
: h+ G1 b% h7 S4 ?$ j 11.3 Warp knits/经编针织物 121
- A3 ~- K T, M; u0 C1 M% p2 L 11.3.1 Tricot fabrics/特里科经编针织物 121
# L0 ]8 U$ m& y7 ~ 11.3.2 Raschel fabrics/拉舍尔经编针织物 122- ?4 M* j' u( p* Z( J
11.4 Performance and characteristics/性能和参数 1226 I% I% K/ z1 K( b2 [2 n) p
Questions/思考题 1237 p; Q) W* t* Y2 T" G8 @
Chapter 12 Nonwoven Fabrics/非织造布 124
. `+ ]$ z n1 w. T5 L: E' L0 D 12.1 Introduction/导论 124
8 ?" `9 S G2 {8 w 12.2 Manufacturing methods/生产方法 1251 a# D* ^0 V: Y! F, U6 i5 _
12.2.1 Dry laid system/干法成网 125( m" O5 m/ n) N- Y
12.2.2 Wet laid system/湿法成网 1250 R z4 E p/ ~, f0 t
12.2.3 Polymer laid system/聚合物挤压法 125
( r1 ?% T- ]& w7 x& S 12.3 Various nonwovens/各种非织造布 125
% {- z; C n, x$ }! n4 ^9 z8 O 12.3.1 Needle punched nonwovens/针刺法非织造布 125
1 ?- w6 ~- B& Y8 I3 s 12.3.2 Bonded web nonwovens/黏合法非织造布 1264 W9 t- ~+ H: M" c
12.3.3 Spunlaced nonwovens/射流喷网法非织造布 1277 j$ L- D. ?% m4 m# q5 f
12.3.4 Spunbonded nonwovens/纺粘法非织造布 128
+ u! ?& ^- G/ r3 ]7 O% Y 12.3.5 Melt-blown nonwovens/熔喷法非织造布 129
" ?9 O+ q3 a) Q: D) V# w+ |- e+ l Questions/思考题 129
, A0 T4 L) c( U! Q: i$ ^, {Part Ⅴ Textile Testing/纺织品测试 130
1 H& M, w9 p4 t6 b% E/ \; \ Chapter 13 General Test Methods/常规测试方法 130; k/ Z$ Z v ]$ A7 Y& O+ B+ [
13.1 General fiber tests/纤维常规测试 130
. I0 ]9 T2 T# @! [$ J: K9 H. R 13.1.1 Fiber identification/纤维鉴别 130$ Z: A2 L' V, U. y
13.1.2 Fiber length/纤维长度 134
! R, ]* v8 k, G: C# Z# D& E9 [ 13.1.3 Fiber fineness or linear density/纤维细度或线密度 135
& a! @1 [: ]2 G 13.1.4 Cross-sectional shape/截面形状 135
4 H- h7 X9 x. l+ j% D 13.1.5 Crimp/卷曲 135
) j: G0 m- M" }/ j# e 13.1.6 Regain/回潮率 136
% P/ ^7 Q% {; o. ^ 13.1.7 Mechanical properties/机械性能 136
4 _$ E7 V5 q) ~/ C2 p 13.1.8 Chemical characteristics/化学性能 136
6 L+ s4 T: ]& L' Y6 B 13.1.9 Surface characteristics/表面性能 136& z' S; Q) D$ i l
13.1.10 Density and specific gravity/密度和相对密度 137" q& [% ?4 K! s* W, [/ o- h
13.2 Special tests for natural fibers/天然纤维的测试 137
) A7 ]7 ?' R* ~9 _, R. n& A; C 13.2.1 Tests for cotton/棉纤维测试 137
/ [* [* Y5 H' x9 `$ g6 v. @ 13.2.2 Tests for wool/毛纤维测试 139+ v0 q7 @" ~; A- r2 x
13.3 Testing of tensile properties/拉伸性能测试 140
! e! F% I4 [& } 13.3.1 Description of tensile proprieties/拉伸性能的描述 141
$ E/ b1 a3 x8 |# T. C; x- Y7 s5 K 13.3.2 Fiber and yarn tensile testing/纤维和纱线拉伸性能的测试 146& D+ a$ o9 b, P7 N! e/ z# `. L
13.3.3 Fabric tensile testing/织物拉伸性能测试方法 147
- f# \/ v2 u5 R8 h Questions/思考题 149% n& [( E) @" u. t# c0 M
Chapter 14 Fabric Abrasion and Pilling/织物磨损与起球 150( l: l5 Y, g* B- L8 x5 Q
14.1 Types of abrasion/磨损的类型 150
; w9 f) l0 [. I- S8 ? 14.1.1 Abrasion between fabrics/织物间的磨损 150! p# ^ ]( y$ q
14.1.2 Abrasion between fabric and a nontextile surface/织物与非纤维制品表面磨损 150
" Q, T/ K/ I) F6 s# E: M* m. E 14.1.3 Abrasion within fabric/织物内部磨损 1510 m6 m' g0 O3 L1 r
14.1.4 Abrasion by foreign materials within the fabric/与织物内部其他材料的磨损 151' S( u/ r7 g0 V' N7 }2 B# u7 r' d
14.2 Factors affecting fabric abrasion resistance/影响耐磨性能的因素 151" S1 P3 q" l( d" T8 q- v' E
14.2.1 Fabric properties/织物性能 151
; U0 Q! ?+ w" ^$ X. R4 ~( O @ 14.2.2 Other factors/其他因素 153
* L" x6 \6 C0 L' \ 14.3 Abrasion testing/磨损测试 154: ~: V/ T$ n8 P/ Q, L- Q6 i% ]- p
14.3.1 Visual comparison with an unabraded specimen/与未磨损样品视觉对比 154) n$ n0 x3 D- [9 {! n0 ^
14.3.2 Number of cycles to produce a hole/产生磨损破洞需要的摩擦圈数 154% ^' G1 B) l( g
14.3.3 Change in a physical property/物理性能的变化 1544 J5 c& \5 B6 G. P4 w
14.3.4 Microscopic examination/显微镜观测 1551 {7 x+ j) c6 o
14.4 Aesthetics of abrasion and wear/穿着和磨损对美感的影响 155+ X. T. R8 u" u+ E& U8 Q
14.4.1 Color changes caused by abrasion/磨损引起的颜色变化 155. g) W4 s' L H: J. m5 b; T3 w
14.4.2 Pilling/起球 156# \. c9 [, K% _% i1 R3 r
Questions/思考题 157
/ r* z* u$ Y% v Chapter 15 Fabric Hand and Drape/织物手感与悬垂 1582 o! _, m% i# o# m& {
15.1 Fabric hand/织物手感 158
" }$ {; J- `% r; B1 v. B: G% W 15.2 Fabric drape/织物悬垂 159
% \3 ?% Q! ], `+ ^ 15.3 Measurement of hand and drape/手感与悬垂的评价 161
! Y( u* x/ y8 w3 U! X7 W) A( Y3 ? 15.3.1 Subjective evaluation/主观评定法 161
5 S% r+ f+ |: p 15.3.2 Quantitative measurement/定量评定法 162( x) y( H& \1 e9 F2 p2 ~
15.3.3 Kawabata evaluation system/KES评定法 163
& O7 X0 X; J9 e- C9 X Questions/思考题 163
* z- X1 B$ Q# S" ~/ L; k Chapter 16 Fabric Colorfastness/织物染色牢度 164# N5 _; I1 R2 M" I8 @% V& Y
16.1 Evaluation of color and colorfastness/颜色和染色牢度评定方法 164. {3 m$ ]% c' `% s
16.2 Colorfastness tests/染色牢度测试 164
$ O$ ?+ l2 C) i, z: {9 x 16.2.1 Colorfastness to crocking/耐摩擦色牢度 164
: v6 X# Z: G/ O 16.2.2 Colorfastness to laundering and bleaching/耐洗涤和耐漂白色牢 165
9 x* ~- P6 ]2 H b 16.2.3 Colorfastness to drycleaning/耐干洗色牢度 166
! Y9 l/ D1 Y, w1 H 16.2.4 Colorfastness to perspiration/耐汗渍色牢度 166
/ U3 _0 @ U1 {; v! i 16.2.5 Colorfastness to water/耐水浸色牢度 166
. g0 e7 r3 q l6 b8 R" u% O& E 16.2.6 Colorfastness to light/耐光照色牢度 167
. y8 x, w5 V, D) h8 @ 16.2.7 Colorfastness to atmospheric contaminants/耐空气污染色牢度 168
6 _- }4 \9 i; o5 _2 _2 `" R Questions/思考题 168
/ h- w: B) Y, a. h. {. w Chapter 17 Fabric Flammability/织物可燃性 169
0 r2 O8 `1 F! J 17.1 Flammability standards/可燃性标准 169+ H4 ^' y9 b8 w! |+ H( a! X: v
17.2 Properties affecting flammability/影响可燃性的因素 169
. ~5 _9 j4 T$ ^ 17.3 Flammability testing/可燃性测试 171
$ {( _# r9 x: o5 h, n 17.3.1 Forty-five degree angle test/45°燃烧测试法 1718 g: {5 ^/ a4 g$ U. \0 D
17.3.2 Vertical flame tests/垂直燃烧测试法 172
( B% V& {% B+ U; T6 N1 ~ 17.3.3 Carpet testing/地毯测试 172! T7 c4 a7 n- X/ w9 M: R, ?
17.3.4 Cigarette tests/卷烟点燃测试 172; a/ G" }2 w& w1 c
17.3.5 Other standard flammability tests/其他可燃性测试 173
7 C/ c; D; A7 ?" S- @' S Questions/思考题 173
. F8 J" v* I9 [( W Chapter 18 Comfort of Textiles/纺织品舒适性 1744 }. E1 N" S$ q! u) y. G
18.1 Physical phenomena affecting thermal comfort/影响热舒适性能的物理现象 174% Q% B& Y3 X. M. u8 u, F
18.1.1 Heat transfer/热传递 174
# G6 h* m. T! t2 a; \0 y 18.1.2 Moisture transfer/湿传递 1753 I3 b9 M6 P3 H- p, ~. Y) W
18.1.3 Water resistance/抗水性 175
# m0 {9 }' K% j& I/ v3 x9 n0 w4 F 18.1.4 Air transfer/透气性 176
3 }. x2 b. o% i" | 18.1.5 Porosity and cover factor/多孔性和覆盖系数 1763 Z1 S! Q/ I) `# c0 F5 {9 V* z
18.1.6 Electrostatic propensity/静电 177
4 U* A$ d; f9 P4 V- y8 F 18.2 Evaluations of textile properties related to comfort/与舒适性相关的纺织品性能评价 177
: V' S4 Q# U/ N2 r) M. O- c w 18.2.1 Heat transfer/热传递 1787 m7 N$ m; B2 v
18.2.2 Moisture properties/湿传递性能 179* }. w2 D* ~. W, G
18.2.3 Air permeability/透气性 179/ k( {6 O& h( u- j4 T2 Z! E
18.2.4 Porosity/孔隙率 180
( h( m, k# D. I 18.2.5 Electrostatic tests/静电测试 180
% n& Y! R1 u) h ` Questions/思考题 180
# `# u9 ?9 w/ H* QAppendix/附录 181
1 a9 T* S( c, {( q# j AATCC:AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS/美国纺织化学家与染色家协会 181' C- N9 I; c1 ]3 A
ASTM:AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR TESTING AND MATERIALS/美国材料试验学会 184
4 N- D/ k7 l) g: `: m7 V+ WVocabulary/词汇表 189) b( b* g7 p+ N
References/参考文献 197( J P, T& B2 n: S+ Y4 K1 A
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