
纺织材料学(双语教材),刘妍,熊磊,PDF。普通高等教育“十一五”国家级规划教材(本科),纺织工程专业双语教材,电子目录,14M。* F# {9 g+ f# F/ Z7 O
* B! B5 l& Z" w/ o# Y+ ~内容提要1 {& U: n+ d. A* Y) A
本书讨论了纤维、纱线与织物(包括机织物、针织物及非织造布)的结构、机械性能、物理性能及使用性能。涉及的纤维势括天然纤维(如棉、毛、麻、丝等)、传统化学纤维及新型化学纤维。本书同时介绍了纤维、纱线和织物的各种标准测试方法(包括国际上常用的ASTM, AATCC及GB等方法),并讨论了与各种测试方法有关的测试原理及对测试结果的影响因素。2 n" y3 N. @, E% M& \
本书可供高等纺织院校纺织、服装相关专业的本科生及研究生作为《纺织材料学》的双语教材或专业英语教材,也可供其他专业师生、纺织贸易专业人员和科研及生产单位的技术人员参考。
2 C( w: b3 a8 O% s" {目录
& C& g/ r& t0 w% i4 C( v) n: ]Part Ⅰ An Introduction to Textiles/纺织入门 18& K* f' Y' L7 f( a# X) f
Chapter 1 Introduction/介绍 18
7 B# ]) V) i; |4 d* O/ A 1.1 ASTM Standard Terminology Relating to Textiles/ASTM纺织标准术语 18/ Z% [! M( L! @' `4 E) G2 J
1.2 Fiber history/纤维历史 26
( P0 }5 {- e. P" [3 C5 p; O; x 1.2.1 Natural fibers/天然纤维 26
6 x9 c& a# [. H1 {) R 1.2.2 Man-made fibers/化学纤维 27
* X* r9 M% L& f7 n Questions/思考题 30. v8 k6 e7 w* J
Part Ⅱ Textile Fibers/纺织纤维 32
% p8 \, s% V0 X9 o! _# A( `3 \ Chapter 2 Natural Cellulosic Fibers/天然纤维素纤维 326 E2 f$ H! O" a# x& o$ Z I
2.1 Cotton/棉 33
2 {8 b9 J; v! w! A# z 2.1.1 Nature of cotton/棉花的种类 33
% W6 r/ c/ b) U 2.1.2 Classification/分类 341 B: \4 O7 _( o$ G3 ^! u
2.1.3 Growth and structure of cotton/棉纤维的生长与结构 34. ]& t/ c+ q9 }% f2 s4 {% j' P
2.1.4 Maturity/成熟度 36
& Y. P3 U+ V4 X: i! o0 T0 w' B 2.1.5 Cotton properties/棉纤维的性能 38
; j9 S, {5 e# }' R. D 2.1.6 Cotton classification/棉花分级 39
5 R( z$ t3 h: m& `8 } 2.2 Bast fibers/韧皮纤维 40
8 J$ S4 S2 P. D8 `7 S; a 2.2.1 Flax (linen)/亚麻,亚麻织物 41' i' e, [7 y2 s: j. t
2.2.2 Ramie/苎麻 43- u, s% x/ r' W, \3 T$ s
2.2.3 Hemp/汉麻 44
7 D4 ^9 W# g( ~; r2 l3 J1 V; N 2.2.4 Jute/黄麻 44
$ Q; ]2 w/ i( A" g& H3 S Questions/思考题 45
- Z3 J4 ]9 ?: | Chapter 3 Natural Protein Fibers/天然蛋白质纤维 46. O: D: j1 G! N. ^5 k
3.1 Wool/绵羊毛 46
9 [5 x8 M% K$ {/ K 3.1.1 Wool production and history/羊毛生产和历史 46( b( O& T' P* x ~0 E) k
3.1.2 Wool grading/羊毛分级 47
) Y& ~# I$ m. N) J 3.1.3 Wool structure/羊毛结构 47* k% p L& A$ O7 e( p& S
3.1.4 Wool properties/羊毛性能 48
0 A# ~6 a( D. z- o( H% D0 C 3.2 Specialty animal fibers/特种动物毛 51
# ]' }! W/ T' F7 ` 3.3 Silk/丝 52
8 U5 R+ z- |0 m( y; ` Questions/思考题 547 q; u, C; R4 \& L2 N/ `- A
Chapter 4 Man-made Fibers/化学纤维 55
4 W: `* K0 s% }$ v% M 4.1 Manufacturing processing of fiber/纤维生产工艺 55- p: x. { n" h0 o, f- Y/ p0 I
4.1.1 Wet spinning/湿法纺丝 569 q- ^- E0 ~' `: O& P
4.1.2 Dry spinning/干法纺丝 564 ^$ ^7 X! K5 E% F
4.1.3 Melt spinning/熔体法纺丝 56
% C5 N! Q& W* Y9 ~( \ 4.1.4 Gel spinning/凝胶纺丝 57
, j7 [) a5 S+ Z- }$ o2 d 4.2 Regenerated fibers/再生纤维 57
2 [1 i# i$ e. O! y+ [6 L 4.2.1 Acetate/醋酯纤维 57
9 V2 F* k; k) g- a( q 4.2.2 Triacetate/三醋酯纤维 59
3 I7 `/ H/ e1 o. w/ ?0 x 4.2.3 Viscose fibers/粘胶纤维 599 f: ~" c; p f' { ~: J; g( G& f
4.3 Synthetic fibers/合成纤维 60
: [- b/ a/ j" R) N 4.3.1 Acrylic/腈纶 600 @0 U$ }9 R4 k% z5 ]9 H
4.3.2 Modacrylic/改性腈纶 61! y9 D% l$ i, v
4.3.3 Nylon/锦纶 61
; {# C' { A. [6 L, \ 4.3.4 Polyester/涤纶 62+ u. g9 V ?% d4 R! i
4.3.5 PBI/聚苯并咪唑纤维 63
1 H" Q& F, p& ~" c5 z/ ^0 z 4.3.6 Vinal/聚乙烯醇纤维 63" Z- S* \, @8 m# R) O- r
4.3.7 Olefin/聚烯烃纤维 63- g w5 F2 D3 h5 r
4.3.8 Aramid/芳纶 64& ?' k1 S- d, L' b# e; G
4.3.9 Lycra/莱卡 64
; c# B6 K0 x T' _/ c4 L7 G 4.4 Other man-made fibers/其他化学纤维 66
; R- A1 J' a& W' R2 W0 j; P7 ^( l( ] 4.4.1 Glass/玻璃纤维 668 {+ ^" c u) e: D/ w1 w% A
4.4.2 Metallic/金属纤维 67
& ?! H" \3 M% q9 @ Questions/思考题 67. W- R0 E. ]2 g4 g7 K
Chapter 5 New Fibers/新型纤维 680 d9 [; {/ x% f1 O2 P) V
5.1 Carbon fibers/碳纤维 68
* V& Q' V, V U" ~% t: [) H 5.2 Fluorocarbon/氟碳纤维 68, D9 a! Q( F7 |$ f$ |
5.3 Lyocell fibers(Tencel)/莱塞尔纤维 68
; I2 F0 s, u6 Z/ t 5.4 High-wet-modulus fibers/高湿模量纤维 691 R# w( u7 D3 s4 I. ^% R
5.4.1 Modal fibers/莫代尔纤维 69
5 R# d. u4 O P. }9 q2 G+ G 5.4.2 Richcel/丽赛纤维 70* V& `6 Z/ L5 D) r& A# A+ F
5.5 Soybean protein composite fibers/大豆蛋白复合纤维 70
& ]* {: K+ T& K: P7 n6 Z* S 5.6 PLA fiber/聚左旋乳酸纤维 715 J9 x, d X" f& D
5.7 Heterogenous fibers/复合纤维 71' v9 I, `( Y2 J" D0 ?( F! Q' A
5.7.1 Bicomponent or multicomponent/双组分或多组分 72
6 ^. Y# w, \5 x* i( M: Y 5.7.2 Biconstituent or multiconstituent/双成分或多成分 73! H8 n: Y! q: t( g, M9 E% v
5.7.3 Matrix or matrix-fibril/基质型纤维 73
! r* g1 B$ C" [6 i3 R' R$ z- q$ p 5.8 Differential fibers/差别化纤维 74, L$ x2 P. G, }- L D: u+ v3 b5 Z
5.9 Functional fibers/功能性纤维 74
0 G' z9 z* F" c G/ \( w 5.10 High performance fibers/高性能纤维 74; t2 m& o* y7 c
Questions/思考题 74
$ ^9 S' G+ t5 V/ T Chapter 6 The Property of Absorbing Moisture/吸湿性 75
; U/ x( h# v5 C( B) F( h9 } 6.1 Orientation and crystallization/取向与结晶 753 Y: Q% P! e: a6 E! n
6.2 Moisture sorption/吸湿性 75
$ w* t* W3 R$ J. _/ P 6.2.1 Regain and moisture content/回潮率与含水率 75+ g+ E% v! L" p
6.2.2 Relation between regain and relative humidity/回潮率与相对湿度的关系 75
3 Q; u/ O3 v( } l$ e, i$ M/ f) J 6.2.3 Comparison of various materials/不同材料吸湿性的对比 76( H( [( p" e! c$ w6 s' Y7 ]) M( z/ c: s
6.2.4 Theories of moisture sorption/吸湿理论 78
. K5 {$ C% j" p/ b+ U9 F0 o- Y Questions/思考题 80
7 c7 l' ^; A$ j5 @% L4 `9 S Chapter 7 Other Physical Properties of Textile Fibers/纤维的其他物理性能 81
5 R7 w; j7 A" v9 C B 7.1 Electronic properties/电学性能 810 l" N& p) x- ? W. c- R
7.1.1 Definitions/定义 81
( `* G* E# j6 u# v6 i% b 7.2 Optical properties/光学性能 822 j F4 }- ?' K) C) m' k$ U: C
7.3 Thermal properties/热学性能 833 s( z1 L) v( w6 C6 d/ s7 r4 g
7.3.1 Thermal parameters/热力学参数 835 e1 ~) N9 ^( S* v7 ~
7.3.2 A comparison of temperature effects/温度效应比较 83
* G1 V9 Z Z1 u Questions/思考题 83; `" R# S' H/ y1 A% m( b
Part Ⅲ Textile Yarns/纺织纱线 84
, ~, p; ~4 U% W q( P* ^# |) p9 | Chapter 8 Yarn Processing and Construction/纱线制造与结构 84' `# T: l- Y" f6 O) f1 _0 V
8.1 Spun yarns/短纤纱 85
0 z, F0 { X8 f( C. g y0 C2 } 8.2 Filament yarns/长丝纱 85
( u6 H$ R8 w# r- B1 s' [ 8.3 Methods of yarn processing/纺纱方法 85
! ]$ N1 }. q' B) q# N; Z 8.3.1 Ring-spinning/环锭纺 86' u/ K3 L/ J! ^. }* q4 m
8.3.2 New methods of yarn processing/新型纺纱方法 86
- C" X7 |/ g6 a* D 8.4 Single and ply yarns/单纱和股线 89
; T$ ]) s0 z% M* x0 W& A 8.5 Special types of yarn/特种纱线 90% n/ V9 A6 b, ~; \1 M( F' L. z* e! a
8.5.1 Fancy yarns/花式纱 90
1 E3 R+ { n; f1 y1 ? I5 D 8.5.2 Stretch yarns/弹力纱 91& D' V9 b( a) K7 [4 B
8.5.3 Textured yarns 变形纱线 91% l5 ?- b. C8 {7 X7 R1 N) w. w/ _9 W! X
8.6 Blends and mixtures yarns/纱线混纺与混用 92
4 L% G2 a6 G& }! N; P/ y: n8 i Questions/思考题 93
# M+ ]+ `& K0 z2 J. L7 L0 F Chapter 9 Yarn Properties/纱线性能 946 h" {( A( l/ w! E5 t: }, Y, h
9.1 Yarn number/纱线细度 94( P$ \7 _, G) ?8 q: t, ?
9.1.1 Denier system/旦数 94! w% U Y. _4 `: d: x o
9.1.2 Yarn count system/纱线英制支数 94
) r% c' p: K8 l0 v. t1 D! a% c# p 9.1.3 Tex system/线密度 95
8 s# Q' P; ~9 _ 9.1.4 Metric numbering system/公制支数 95) X* W% [" `4 s. R: e* h, L" n4 X
9.1.5 Conversion in different systems/不同系统之间的换算 95
( K# P) d+ z; c/ B 9.2 Ply yarn counts and singles equivalent/股线支数与单纱支数 952 l" {( p' F' _ D/ r9 u1 `& N
9.3 Yarn twist/纱线捻度 96
8 }: w2 \6 f. R2 O* }) A5 v: u 9.4 Yarn hairiness/纱线毛羽 97
& H* N% ]4 r: s 9.4.1 Hairiness test method/毛羽测试方法 98
. K1 c$ F& \- h: t 9.4.2 Factors affecting hairiness/影响毛羽的因素 98
1 h ^9 }- C' }6 F" x% }+ y 9.5 Yarn unevenness/纱线不匀 99+ P; F/ p% x/ o4 o2 u: a* g/ z; a
9.5.1 Test of yarn unevenness/纱线不匀的测试 99+ E2 x' ^/ C( P+ t5 N
9.5.2 Reasons for yarn unevenness/纱线不匀的原因 100
5 V* [6 I, f- F. c5 G( v9 K$ _7 h5 v 9.6 Classification of yarn quality/纱线质量分析 100. I/ ^$ i! s2 D- y e
Questions/思考题 100
" A& @( {; w& k( h3 l2 q$ hPart Ⅳ Textile Fabrics/织物 102
' \9 o- Y$ ^0 \ R$ _( } Chapter 10 Woven Fabrics/机织物 102/ E+ H/ o) k1 k$ x0 K# n& O: A
10.1 Making woven fabrics/织制机织物 102$ d% K: ` q9 z1 W: G4 u, t
10.1.1 The loom/织机 102
. Q6 w. o' e2 J: l' f& E' }* E 10.1.2 Loom type/织机类型 104' \ U( u, F( q7 L- Z
10.1.3 Loom motions/织机运动 104& L& D/ X3 H! n/ {/ a
10.1.4 Electronics in weaving/电子技术在织机中的应用 1054 g& T8 e& R: A3 h( ~2 Z( g
10.1.5 The selvage/布边 1054 T8 J, S1 n( G- W5 Q
10.2 Warp yarns and filling yarns/经纱和纬纱 105- k" e! t) i4 E' O3 Y: X
10.2.1 Identification/鉴别 106
% x- \0 Q( w2 Q, ] 10.3 Face and back/正面与反面 106
* a3 `" W' X& s' @# U 10.3.1 Reasons for differenee/存在差异的原因 107
+ ^# p; I# V1 Y9 E7 j6 {2 U 10.3.2 Caution/应用的要点 107
g, k* u) I; T& y 10.4 Top and bottom/顶端和底端 107$ n3 S6 a- \: l3 i+ v- ?
10.4.1 Reasons for difference/存在差异的原因 107
2 r5 |5 D) R, q N2 Z& c 10.5 Weave floats/组织浮线 108
" N; a4 \. H/ [" O 10.6 Basic weaves/基本组织 108
" I+ L8 z0 I7 V% T6 t 10.6.1 Plain weave/平纹组织 108
; Z4 y0 ~8 K" ^9 e 10.6.2 Twill weave/斜纹组织 1094 e6 d8 D* T' ^5 g! d/ W% ~
10.6.3 Satin weave/缎纹组织 111
5 z) N; b9 v" \" m5 Z) J 10.7 Fabric performance and characteristics/织物性能和参数 112
1 ^9 }1 r; \1 e. t; K 10.7.1 Fabric width/幅宽 112( P8 N: Y2 H4 @! y+ H
10.7.2 Fabric weight/织物重量 1123 w8 P% x- [8 `3 Z7 F! i
10.7.3 Fabric thickness/织物厚度 113
: h: [7 X$ {3 w; x1 {1 \# g$ c* P 10.7.4 Fabric density/织物密度 113
, E( O; O' B2 D1 N' O8 f 10.7.5 Fabric count/织物经纬密度 113
5 W( m }) \8 G6 R 10.7.6 Fabric defects/织物疵点 1139 v3 S0 q' ^ W
Questions/思考题 113
+ H6 f" j O" h% B3 X Chapter 11 Knitted Fabrics/针织物 114
2 d1 X x, F& T9 h0 ?4 S" @ 11.1 Making of knitted fabric/针织物形成 114
) ~5 C/ w& h! R: N& U; ]8 |# \ 11.1.1 The forming of knitted stitches/线圈的形成 1140 I, A( k4 d7 K- N
11.1.2 Types of knitted stitches/线圈的种类 116
' a5 S1 t3 Z9 ~& H6 _ 11.2 Weft knits/纬编针织物 117
U; W9 n# V3 ?+ L D2 w% r: \1 v7 I 11.2.1 Jersey knit fabric/纬平针织物 117# @4 ?8 X/ ^. K$ W( v
11.2.2 Rib knit fabric/罗纹针织物 118# p2 b8 u$ S& u2 H0 i
11.2.3 Purl knit fabric/双反面针织物 119( s4 f6 [: [) Q6 v
11.2.4 Double knits/双面针织物 120
& D* Y0 C7 K) @" Q3 g( k9 r0 g 11.2.5 Full-fashioned knits/全成形针织物 120, l( `4 T8 a% g* l. V4 I$ W
11.3 Warp knits/经编针织物 121
J# G4 j* e" `" | 11.3.1 Tricot fabrics/特里科经编针织物 121 e& D) t5 [; w1 m
11.3.2 Raschel fabrics/拉舍尔经编针织物 122
, a0 h6 K! C2 y! r 11.4 Performance and characteristics/性能和参数 122
" M! G T9 X5 Q( S9 @7 g Questions/思考题 123
3 F: `% o: [+ P m# w Chapter 12 Nonwoven Fabrics/非织造布 1245 @% e. G) ?9 g5 [+ H; I
12.1 Introduction/导论 1247 [( {6 N& Z# c
12.2 Manufacturing methods/生产方法 1252 C, R4 M5 h% D' W1 T. Y. K' v
12.2.1 Dry laid system/干法成网 125 P5 V( u4 r# X' S) l' O
12.2.2 Wet laid system/湿法成网 125! e6 }) P1 E5 J1 `. l$ Q& t
12.2.3 Polymer laid system/聚合物挤压法 125# U4 J9 ~6 ]* Y" s8 R
12.3 Various nonwovens/各种非织造布 125" u" C7 X. D$ F: k9 b
12.3.1 Needle punched nonwovens/针刺法非织造布 125/ p3 U, _& X$ x* H7 L' U: y6 E' f
12.3.2 Bonded web nonwovens/黏合法非织造布 1268 f9 n0 ]: s/ s1 ^" F$ D
12.3.3 Spunlaced nonwovens/射流喷网法非织造布 127 p# J8 ?$ n# M# S6 N& h
12.3.4 Spunbonded nonwovens/纺粘法非织造布 128* q1 B5 }, c& Z' M1 [
12.3.5 Melt-blown nonwovens/熔喷法非织造布 129' Q- k8 t* Z8 u8 f6 I; N3 G
Questions/思考题 129
1 R3 H( f# d, b+ FPart Ⅴ Textile Testing/纺织品测试 1305 S+ D; A6 o/ x8 U3 u
Chapter 13 General Test Methods/常规测试方法 1308 T# Q& j; L& |- `+ d9 {! _
13.1 General fiber tests/纤维常规测试 130+ V) p% Y( [# p! g
13.1.1 Fiber identification/纤维鉴别 130) x# e- X. x) w& x$ T* f
13.1.2 Fiber length/纤维长度 1343 |5 Y. z" g+ f: h3 p2 p! @
13.1.3 Fiber fineness or linear density/纤维细度或线密度 1356 j' V& A8 G+ b
13.1.4 Cross-sectional shape/截面形状 135
7 b% O2 @+ M. b( A4 q M3 ]. G 13.1.5 Crimp/卷曲 135
}3 ~1 \- W& w' G f# P' g- T 13.1.6 Regain/回潮率 136
: A- u0 d' ]* V: i; G 13.1.7 Mechanical properties/机械性能 136
: u) Q# ~7 V/ j5 r7 G9 J 13.1.8 Chemical characteristics/化学性能 136
; ~0 r D. K* z6 C 13.1.9 Surface characteristics/表面性能 1369 L. H! o6 N5 j$ k/ z( `/ u5 X
13.1.10 Density and specific gravity/密度和相对密度 137
/ Q2 q) j3 j7 u9 A0 D0 _; ^7 C 13.2 Special tests for natural fibers/天然纤维的测试 137
* Y+ ^ H2 f2 j 13.2.1 Tests for cotton/棉纤维测试 137- G- m2 I, I( d
13.2.2 Tests for wool/毛纤维测试 139
' A" z4 F9 ]( q) M 13.3 Testing of tensile properties/拉伸性能测试 140
; k* O M! G& `4 Q0 v9 s6 i 13.3.1 Description of tensile proprieties/拉伸性能的描述 141
* @: {* P5 g) {: g v0 Z 13.3.2 Fiber and yarn tensile testing/纤维和纱线拉伸性能的测试 1468 b2 y3 e* ^1 a4 f! I* I, d
13.3.3 Fabric tensile testing/织物拉伸性能测试方法 147
% U0 T5 E1 Z0 E4 D" W& c Questions/思考题 149# I" f+ O" v( F2 u2 }8 t4 B3 {
Chapter 14 Fabric Abrasion and Pilling/织物磨损与起球 150
1 ]7 j8 K `' a6 H4 Y. T E 14.1 Types of abrasion/磨损的类型 150
% f* B7 I, c) q5 I$ H 14.1.1 Abrasion between fabrics/织物间的磨损 150% A4 {/ {+ c# d6 w3 L8 G$ D. {3 }
14.1.2 Abrasion between fabric and a nontextile surface/织物与非纤维制品表面磨损 150
! `" m) j: m1 N9 W* [& B( r9 R* f 14.1.3 Abrasion within fabric/织物内部磨损 151
. S' h$ v4 [( [1 v7 f 14.1.4 Abrasion by foreign materials within the fabric/与织物内部其他材料的磨损 151/ q; N: b" m# f2 K4 F! v
14.2 Factors affecting fabric abrasion resistance/影响耐磨性能的因素 151
; V1 o, g* h; I 14.2.1 Fabric properties/织物性能 151
$ \6 W4 d% t" X2 M0 j1 c 14.2.2 Other factors/其他因素 153
7 b- ~4 N" P; k4 W 14.3 Abrasion testing/磨损测试 154
6 F' \1 \, o6 g: Z# A 14.3.1 Visual comparison with an unabraded specimen/与未磨损样品视觉对比 154* k5 [0 ? P* w6 a( U
14.3.2 Number of cycles to produce a hole/产生磨损破洞需要的摩擦圈数 154
& q9 @0 w- w. b 14.3.3 Change in a physical property/物理性能的变化 154 j: s7 d, g+ M5 e# E
14.3.4 Microscopic examination/显微镜观测 155
: m% \: O+ X- t4 F 14.4 Aesthetics of abrasion and wear/穿着和磨损对美感的影响 1551 p" n" G- d) q* C$ Y9 G% x
14.4.1 Color changes caused by abrasion/磨损引起的颜色变化 155
; n( b @- U: Z ]1 k 14.4.2 Pilling/起球 156! l1 f1 ]( k. o, D" A$ S
Questions/思考题 157
; Q) g3 _9 b q5 Q6 g Chapter 15 Fabric Hand and Drape/织物手感与悬垂 158
' s$ S: F9 `$ ?( ]; T 15.1 Fabric hand/织物手感 158, S4 Y& G$ @6 T6 u G4 p8 }6 [% d: r
15.2 Fabric drape/织物悬垂 159
" Y) K7 k8 f0 c* o- V 15.3 Measurement of hand and drape/手感与悬垂的评价 161
2 m. Q( O; Z; z5 u0 o+ j4 @ 15.3.1 Subjective evaluation/主观评定法 161
7 d/ T! S0 i: e, e: t/ M 15.3.2 Quantitative measurement/定量评定法 1621 ?0 W0 l0 j' W2 j& p2 k( X
15.3.3 Kawabata evaluation system/KES评定法 163
( x M2 v4 }4 f' u Questions/思考题 163
/ Q, g' d; a% ^- e+ a" P Chapter 16 Fabric Colorfastness/织物染色牢度 164
$ z9 k% T7 o4 B. Q- D4 m 16.1 Evaluation of color and colorfastness/颜色和染色牢度评定方法 164$ f3 y" R/ _/ Y- u. X& i7 m
16.2 Colorfastness tests/染色牢度测试 164
: H: e4 J8 o# J 16.2.1 Colorfastness to crocking/耐摩擦色牢度 164: X" g. F1 r* r; J$ F
16.2.2 Colorfastness to laundering and bleaching/耐洗涤和耐漂白色牢 165. c% R; {2 \0 ?' ~" F2 ~- T
16.2.3 Colorfastness to drycleaning/耐干洗色牢度 166. B. S' S" N; _3 H/ g: e
16.2.4 Colorfastness to perspiration/耐汗渍色牢度 1661 ^+ `9 }4 _- q f# ?' }
16.2.5 Colorfastness to water/耐水浸色牢度 1668 b3 c/ w; n3 i% f. e
16.2.6 Colorfastness to light/耐光照色牢度 167! E9 g0 l) O9 E, ^
16.2.7 Colorfastness to atmospheric contaminants/耐空气污染色牢度 168
1 S) n. P6 J( Y8 J0 V Questions/思考题 1685 l; _2 @* y% Z {5 z
Chapter 17 Fabric Flammability/织物可燃性 169
# v4 X* U4 e" l) I6 F 17.1 Flammability standards/可燃性标准 169
8 r; @" h" F' }1 i* C3 H 17.2 Properties affecting flammability/影响可燃性的因素 169
" V( T8 p: O) q$ |8 r 17.3 Flammability testing/可燃性测试 171
' z3 \$ A, h5 j4 c/ P% N 17.3.1 Forty-five degree angle test/45°燃烧测试法 171$ u' Y( \* Z# o/ x' a, q2 N
17.3.2 Vertical flame tests/垂直燃烧测试法 172
- _. I; Y4 F+ }* z 17.3.3 Carpet testing/地毯测试 172# j/ f& w2 E* |" a, `; t
17.3.4 Cigarette tests/卷烟点燃测试 172
4 {* ? L7 U8 H/ w5 R: o 17.3.5 Other standard flammability tests/其他可燃性测试 173( ] b7 ^7 T/ [# @: J' F
Questions/思考题 173, s0 g3 |, o$ _5 [! ?
Chapter 18 Comfort of Textiles/纺织品舒适性 174
% l( Q7 F. C! W- s$ } 18.1 Physical phenomena affecting thermal comfort/影响热舒适性能的物理现象 1742 d+ R, i. a9 o+ R+ }. {* a, F5 \
18.1.1 Heat transfer/热传递 1743 x) z# s9 R; F/ q1 G
18.1.2 Moisture transfer/湿传递 175
) b" v! ?; G( ?8 t: e" F# a8 h" l 18.1.3 Water resistance/抗水性 1753 n2 W2 i: C' j0 ]- A
18.1.4 Air transfer/透气性 176
3 g; N8 p9 c' \ 18.1.5 Porosity and cover factor/多孔性和覆盖系数 176; K: r# `! N4 J8 N5 u
18.1.6 Electrostatic propensity/静电 177* i" U8 Z. S& c) @' M
18.2 Evaluations of textile properties related to comfort/与舒适性相关的纺织品性能评价 1773 z3 k7 r" c! E
18.2.1 Heat transfer/热传递 1784 `# E q4 e+ V( y6 Z: \9 x
18.2.2 Moisture properties/湿传递性能 1797 m! ^9 i/ R# ]$ ?
18.2.3 Air permeability/透气性 179* C' n: O7 |# X( I. l/ `7 c
18.2.4 Porosity/孔隙率 180 v: Y6 k1 y+ Q7 i8 e' z
18.2.5 Electrostatic tests/静电测试 180
6 ?! y4 ]' \' N6 c o ^, L% B* ^3 @ Questions/思考题 1802 P- U# y' m$ l M a& n
Appendix/附录 181
' C) s i& {7 n AATCC:AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS/美国纺织化学家与染色家协会 181
2 h; R$ @, l- ^; e. |' g ASTM:AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR TESTING AND MATERIALS/美国材料试验学会 184
: E7 k7 l/ c. k* n. Y; ?( ~Vocabulary/词汇表 189
7 h! x" P: ^& T' b$ e& YReferences/参考文献 1972 U4 ]& y7 o( r% [! |
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