
纺织材料学(双语教材),刘妍,熊磊,PDF。普通高等教育“十一五”国家级规划教材(本科),纺织工程专业双语教材,电子目录,14M。
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内容提要
3 Q! |! ?( c6 z本书讨论了纤维、纱线与织物(包括机织物、针织物及非织造布)的结构、机械性能、物理性能及使用性能。涉及的纤维势括天然纤维(如棉、毛、麻、丝等)、传统化学纤维及新型化学纤维。本书同时介绍了纤维、纱线和织物的各种标准测试方法(包括国际上常用的ASTM, AATCC及GB等方法),并讨论了与各种测试方法有关的测试原理及对测试结果的影响因素。2 x2 B& j( |7 u8 F$ R
本书可供高等纺织院校纺织、服装相关专业的本科生及研究生作为《纺织材料学》的双语教材或专业英语教材,也可供其他专业师生、纺织贸易专业人员和科研及生产单位的技术人员参考。" X- N: |6 I7 L9 i8 ^
目录! p7 A/ o5 V5 X) D( { |+ Y. F
Part Ⅰ An Introduction to Textiles/纺织入门 18
& k- B3 K2 x4 C2 Z' s: ~: P Chapter 1 Introduction/介绍 18
2 k& O* `8 L" p5 r 1.1 ASTM Standard Terminology Relating to Textiles/ASTM纺织标准术语 18' M5 k9 h9 ^% Q9 {
1.2 Fiber history/纤维历史 26
6 v# _# |2 V* B2 \' e, z 1.2.1 Natural fibers/天然纤维 26
, U; \: n( O8 O% T% L4 ` 1.2.2 Man-made fibers/化学纤维 27. S9 X. g$ o7 m J
Questions/思考题 30& H5 Y, ]' c }' u1 W8 o' h" l( s! l
Part Ⅱ Textile Fibers/纺织纤维 32
2 {! s m# C/ Q+ L! Z+ i- Q8 f. k Chapter 2 Natural Cellulosic Fibers/天然纤维素纤维 32
* q! e3 r2 c g2 s 2.1 Cotton/棉 33& ]: ^6 O1 Y: O/ q) }
2.1.1 Nature of cotton/棉花的种类 33* H% m# W4 C0 y" [1 Y' }+ e- q
2.1.2 Classification/分类 344 i1 Y2 ?( x0 z: k
2.1.3 Growth and structure of cotton/棉纤维的生长与结构 34+ r4 i, A' A: ^% o9 n
2.1.4 Maturity/成熟度 366 R1 p$ t7 y0 \% z G
2.1.5 Cotton properties/棉纤维的性能 38
+ \, Q2 I9 \ h$ G 2.1.6 Cotton classification/棉花分级 393 p) d+ J5 g( f+ y
2.2 Bast fibers/韧皮纤维 40
* J- g2 r& m5 [. J5 v/ g 2.2.1 Flax (linen)/亚麻,亚麻织物 41$ P! J/ q! T. u7 D: z2 H0 C
2.2.2 Ramie/苎麻 43
$ @- n' t% c2 M, H8 P4 b3 C: T 2.2.3 Hemp/汉麻 44
2 y4 j1 `9 N/ z5 H 2.2.4 Jute/黄麻 448 V0 C u; @; m1 T
Questions/思考题 456 a% G. c5 w* w$ E' ]' y
Chapter 3 Natural Protein Fibers/天然蛋白质纤维 46( v& u, ?7 K6 C
3.1 Wool/绵羊毛 46
3 J; F& Q0 c+ R( o8 l5 n 3.1.1 Wool production and history/羊毛生产和历史 46/ e8 w# C$ v% }* N3 }' ~1 K
3.1.2 Wool grading/羊毛分级 47; a7 T6 S# A( I: f1 S$ s P
3.1.3 Wool structure/羊毛结构 47
9 q: c% A! t4 N! R 3.1.4 Wool properties/羊毛性能 48' f8 r2 C! ^- A: v& o `6 ]( \8 ?) X; b
3.2 Specialty animal fibers/特种动物毛 51
3 j# Z+ @/ }3 W* l" A4 G 3.3 Silk/丝 52
& F% { f! }+ K# G# {7 Z Questions/思考题 54! s, Q' h' |! G% k I* W
Chapter 4 Man-made Fibers/化学纤维 55
7 w& ^1 ]1 d" _+ R+ A- ?" A1 F+ s7 x 4.1 Manufacturing processing of fiber/纤维生产工艺 557 _0 a- h2 D b& G
4.1.1 Wet spinning/湿法纺丝 564 u4 l8 O" h. E5 H; u* l
4.1.2 Dry spinning/干法纺丝 564 M, ~; I7 R5 G* ~* y' t' x& |, n
4.1.3 Melt spinning/熔体法纺丝 56) b E; ^- Z8 Y. r) y+ j
4.1.4 Gel spinning/凝胶纺丝 57
& K- @3 h, X2 U: k0 { 4.2 Regenerated fibers/再生纤维 571 j1 e. M, z; s. `8 E; h, W, Z
4.2.1 Acetate/醋酯纤维 57/ M# _- e$ w+ l! f9 ^& f
4.2.2 Triacetate/三醋酯纤维 59
0 y/ U& x. V1 y. m 4.2.3 Viscose fibers/粘胶纤维 59( t; ]6 X+ P6 O8 z' _) s
4.3 Synthetic fibers/合成纤维 60
. m3 c; r$ y# f: _; K+ b8 C# N 4.3.1 Acrylic/腈纶 60
$ E' G0 `7 W! Q6 L$ ` 4.3.2 Modacrylic/改性腈纶 610 c( Y) d$ C; O% ^1 r
4.3.3 Nylon/锦纶 61; G# Q7 n# l8 J7 G4 e/ T! P( D
4.3.4 Polyester/涤纶 62 M: \. ?2 G0 @% S& Y z+ V9 h
4.3.5 PBI/聚苯并咪唑纤维 63/ F, [# B8 U) Q4 c. T3 s
4.3.6 Vinal/聚乙烯醇纤维 63
1 @" \/ Q: L8 W 4.3.7 Olefin/聚烯烃纤维 63
( R5 |9 l' W B& x 4.3.8 Aramid/芳纶 648 _" @5 \5 ^+ y5 {* N
4.3.9 Lycra/莱卡 640 W [( b0 i3 P# e3 O# J( I
4.4 Other man-made fibers/其他化学纤维 66
A/ O% l" @6 \ V8 c7 v 4.4.1 Glass/玻璃纤维 66
?' u. K. u$ _6 M( F 4.4.2 Metallic/金属纤维 67
4 K( M. b9 x5 d' X3 D T7 N Questions/思考题 67" M* Z0 e) P4 w7 T
Chapter 5 New Fibers/新型纤维 68
q) R2 h9 R6 c- @+ i 5.1 Carbon fibers/碳纤维 68" y- B9 ?: Q( f8 R
5.2 Fluorocarbon/氟碳纤维 68 N: S3 _' N G' o1 Z0 X: y
5.3 Lyocell fibers(Tencel)/莱塞尔纤维 68
) y$ `$ j- }# f6 [ 5.4 High-wet-modulus fibers/高湿模量纤维 69, e$ s) x% X1 U' F, n" L
5.4.1 Modal fibers/莫代尔纤维 698 K2 X( b) Q9 \6 @
5.4.2 Richcel/丽赛纤维 704 B9 @* f. l- K. v' r/ G6 @
5.5 Soybean protein composite fibers/大豆蛋白复合纤维 70
$ @ w* K* f, q* n8 r 5.6 PLA fiber/聚左旋乳酸纤维 71
6 }% N3 r/ l, z+ m 5.7 Heterogenous fibers/复合纤维 71
% L0 Q, X9 H$ }; F6 b 5.7.1 Bicomponent or multicomponent/双组分或多组分 72- g3 V! m$ `) t3 M6 |3 g
5.7.2 Biconstituent or multiconstituent/双成分或多成分 734 r& i6 M n( E9 w+ K b
5.7.3 Matrix or matrix-fibril/基质型纤维 73
( Q9 b' m) h+ t+ Z3 R+ C/ H 5.8 Differential fibers/差别化纤维 742 @7 _' p: y/ N! H! n8 ~6 [# l* d
5.9 Functional fibers/功能性纤维 748 Z& a% ~$ ?' d
5.10 High performance fibers/高性能纤维 74
4 E9 K; v0 N: b Questions/思考题 74. \; q+ C4 ]2 ?* j
Chapter 6 The Property of Absorbing Moisture/吸湿性 75
& {& P. f4 k. l, P8 [7 g 6.1 Orientation and crystallization/取向与结晶 75' H# p. C- T$ G3 y9 c5 M9 A
6.2 Moisture sorption/吸湿性 75
/ F% ~4 M5 F! l 6.2.1 Regain and moisture content/回潮率与含水率 75
. S! G* I3 \8 n3 t5 ^# {8 B4 }; m 6.2.2 Relation between regain and relative humidity/回潮率与相对湿度的关系 75
( O2 [; r% u, J% m, d' u 6.2.3 Comparison of various materials/不同材料吸湿性的对比 76
8 h* T0 s3 ~% z3 p7 k+ i* L+ S 6.2.4 Theories of moisture sorption/吸湿理论 78" e9 R4 q" L- b% Y- @( b
Questions/思考题 80( \& T6 U P5 B: |3 h: D
Chapter 7 Other Physical Properties of Textile Fibers/纤维的其他物理性能 818 _$ F) K7 F" ^- d; X
7.1 Electronic properties/电学性能 81
1 {0 y, D6 C) b: B: l: W" n3 P" |: c1 ] 7.1.1 Definitions/定义 811 `+ T9 q/ m- A: O2 d* R
7.2 Optical properties/光学性能 82
& ~1 M" N3 F Y* I6 c2 q0 D+ c 7.3 Thermal properties/热学性能 83
5 S% m* f: Q' B$ g$ K0 M 7.3.1 Thermal parameters/热力学参数 83; }) |( D, Y- o# d1 U* J, K
7.3.2 A comparison of temperature effects/温度效应比较 83
+ v' m# }& h! H X4 _7 Z" X7 F$ R Questions/思考题 83% Y, w/ R5 n- k
Part Ⅲ Textile Yarns/纺织纱线 84
& B1 q; _4 R9 W3 x Chapter 8 Yarn Processing and Construction/纱线制造与结构 84
8 _3 `7 k: o4 s/ c3 ?' o' O 8.1 Spun yarns/短纤纱 85
) w: }4 _0 G) l$ p) E' ^2 M- U" p- g( ^ 8.2 Filament yarns/长丝纱 85
( _0 \* y& d- [ 8.3 Methods of yarn processing/纺纱方法 85
, o% g' c' T, I |) R ^) c 8.3.1 Ring-spinning/环锭纺 86" B2 o7 L' }4 b
8.3.2 New methods of yarn processing/新型纺纱方法 86, v& r7 F# J$ F+ r7 E) p
8.4 Single and ply yarns/单纱和股线 891 u% V1 [/ H4 J- V. x
8.5 Special types of yarn/特种纱线 900 O$ `# {0 o9 b) R" O
8.5.1 Fancy yarns/花式纱 90
% C. }. y8 L( |0 g: f0 C8 B 8.5.2 Stretch yarns/弹力纱 91+ {$ K; K* i9 ]5 u
8.5.3 Textured yarns 变形纱线 91
5 P7 v9 n: N" j) k5 K 8.6 Blends and mixtures yarns/纱线混纺与混用 92
% j& M4 ]7 \, ^7 W; Q! ^ Questions/思考题 93
: I p/ C, J: T" y Chapter 9 Yarn Properties/纱线性能 94
: j5 c Q2 r9 \' a 9.1 Yarn number/纱线细度 94
4 P; \6 c5 t% m- {5 ` 9.1.1 Denier system/旦数 94: Y( k: Z4 [& z( h( x1 `% {
9.1.2 Yarn count system/纱线英制支数 94. @2 @2 w) @1 a1 \( I3 ?) c
9.1.3 Tex system/线密度 95
3 z9 Y3 J; h) e( v4 p6 }6 i$ V 9.1.4 Metric numbering system/公制支数 957 P, c* `: E+ E) C- m" ?
9.1.5 Conversion in different systems/不同系统之间的换算 95 @( ^6 }: T9 d! g
9.2 Ply yarn counts and singles equivalent/股线支数与单纱支数 95
2 z1 B: \( z+ K$ F 9.3 Yarn twist/纱线捻度 96
7 a V0 O. T8 b 9.4 Yarn hairiness/纱线毛羽 97+ M9 @6 r) X# D/ W3 K/ P: b! Y
9.4.1 Hairiness test method/毛羽测试方法 98
$ n/ N3 Y+ O* F$ N0 ~- Q 9.4.2 Factors affecting hairiness/影响毛羽的因素 98
/ _9 o, S) ~. F% P! C2 D0 O 9.5 Yarn unevenness/纱线不匀 994 }4 P! A7 J/ d1 {# Q, A
9.5.1 Test of yarn unevenness/纱线不匀的测试 99( m9 t( K" W. A+ Y: u3 g
9.5.2 Reasons for yarn unevenness/纱线不匀的原因 100* A( X7 [! X+ l8 ~; z: R5 G
9.6 Classification of yarn quality/纱线质量分析 100
* z% R& A6 C9 F! A- S5 E* i Questions/思考题 100/ z {2 |& B7 g d( Z9 o
Part Ⅳ Textile Fabrics/织物 102
3 [- V! {/ K: D, K% d) G Chapter 10 Woven Fabrics/机织物 102+ V! y7 [; y. r5 l Y4 ]
10.1 Making woven fabrics/织制机织物 102- e! f) K* t7 `" ~9 l
10.1.1 The loom/织机 1024 |% q6 j: q4 K. k# f5 G3 i
10.1.2 Loom type/织机类型 104
3 J% a: i. Q6 ?3 |/ L1 f1 ? 10.1.3 Loom motions/织机运动 1046 }) I. s, f+ }6 _9 ]& O3 z
10.1.4 Electronics in weaving/电子技术在织机中的应用 105
: Z$ q# i4 i. E) u- C 10.1.5 The selvage/布边 105
3 U/ T7 n: N" o 10.2 Warp yarns and filling yarns/经纱和纬纱 105
, I) H; W% U" n: I4 w 10.2.1 Identification/鉴别 1067 Z4 S: L/ f: C; S( P2 U) |
10.3 Face and back/正面与反面 106
7 t( r6 r9 i, g 10.3.1 Reasons for differenee/存在差异的原因 107
0 [# \1 T k, {& j" E 10.3.2 Caution/应用的要点 1070 c( F6 w' K1 A' \
10.4 Top and bottom/顶端和底端 1078 P, l* l3 C C) |
10.4.1 Reasons for difference/存在差异的原因 107% Q4 O5 N+ y$ c2 ?& J2 V
10.5 Weave floats/组织浮线 108' f- @: U8 n7 Y/ m, C% b
10.6 Basic weaves/基本组织 108
& k1 c2 E% D4 K+ F! a- l2 ^ 10.6.1 Plain weave/平纹组织 1082 L2 k2 l* s* z: v9 r; b- w3 m, Q
10.6.2 Twill weave/斜纹组织 1093 K/ }% A2 u% N2 q
10.6.3 Satin weave/缎纹组织 1114 x" Y. t5 y$ m2 U9 b, r1 U- q- |
10.7 Fabric performance and characteristics/织物性能和参数 112
0 E( g; M V5 W 10.7.1 Fabric width/幅宽 112; Y4 Y2 x1 T7 g! z2 J7 q
10.7.2 Fabric weight/织物重量 112
' b! y- Y! Y/ t% d# G 10.7.3 Fabric thickness/织物厚度 113
$ @! H4 y# E8 X 10.7.4 Fabric density/织物密度 1130 S7 ~0 x' w: C* L4 a/ _
10.7.5 Fabric count/织物经纬密度 1136 z* J3 a- D p' X7 E' `" o. }
10.7.6 Fabric defects/织物疵点 113, H" T6 h% C. R# p: |5 r) @
Questions/思考题 113- ]# X# M9 M6 d* l! _$ f9 t: }
Chapter 11 Knitted Fabrics/针织物 114
! M S1 j' x# N; u 11.1 Making of knitted fabric/针织物形成 1142 o/ T8 ^1 c* @2 i6 c7 [( x
11.1.1 The forming of knitted stitches/线圈的形成 114) b% K6 X+ R8 q7 Q( S
11.1.2 Types of knitted stitches/线圈的种类 116/ A5 Y+ n1 w2 z! d
11.2 Weft knits/纬编针织物 117
! w9 Q/ U8 F& V9 ]& |0 a 11.2.1 Jersey knit fabric/纬平针织物 117
9 F4 Y+ }* i1 D; q$ @+ `0 a, D 11.2.2 Rib knit fabric/罗纹针织物 1187 E. J- a% [. U1 H
11.2.3 Purl knit fabric/双反面针织物 119
/ d; _8 j/ T+ }& L& {: j# Y/ \0 U 11.2.4 Double knits/双面针织物 1207 y) F$ v1 H7 v6 P
11.2.5 Full-fashioned knits/全成形针织物 120$ U4 W0 O, V1 ~; A( [% t
11.3 Warp knits/经编针织物 121
3 a/ K# C+ y. b3 n* I& H+ |9 Q 11.3.1 Tricot fabrics/特里科经编针织物 121
1 q# e/ x/ i# o9 B) w7 I' m A- ? 11.3.2 Raschel fabrics/拉舍尔经编针织物 1223 B: v7 E7 ]& ^& \; Q
11.4 Performance and characteristics/性能和参数 122
& _ F C/ Y7 `- t: l Questions/思考题 123 c! W) |' c* [3 E: k
Chapter 12 Nonwoven Fabrics/非织造布 124
; b8 Q O8 E1 { 12.1 Introduction/导论 124
: L2 i7 a5 F3 W2 D3 X: d 12.2 Manufacturing methods/生产方法 1255 K) g$ \3 [$ Y8 k' @
12.2.1 Dry laid system/干法成网 125
' Y5 H+ y9 l w- T7 J 12.2.2 Wet laid system/湿法成网 125
" |4 |( |' T3 c7 y+ T 12.2.3 Polymer laid system/聚合物挤压法 125
: V7 a: Q% }9 M& O" v4 l5 D6 h 12.3 Various nonwovens/各种非织造布 125: c" L7 D4 R# U3 L
12.3.1 Needle punched nonwovens/针刺法非织造布 125
5 F$ E) |) j: O# y 12.3.2 Bonded web nonwovens/黏合法非织造布 126 v6 R( \& W. k2 P
12.3.3 Spunlaced nonwovens/射流喷网法非织造布 127
6 M0 ?/ d! b: A 12.3.4 Spunbonded nonwovens/纺粘法非织造布 128
/ ~0 N6 l: E7 Y* t! g 12.3.5 Melt-blown nonwovens/熔喷法非织造布 1296 j% g7 g+ ~& y9 m
Questions/思考题 129) X' r+ ~- D' @; X6 y3 e
Part Ⅴ Textile Testing/纺织品测试 130 ?/ |% D9 w6 N P* Z# o
Chapter 13 General Test Methods/常规测试方法 130+ f# @ @2 H( f/ [8 P% Z6 `" @! p
13.1 General fiber tests/纤维常规测试 130
% X. b6 j) S# V2 z 13.1.1 Fiber identification/纤维鉴别 130
& o' D6 l/ s/ F8 v9 ]. D3 [ 13.1.2 Fiber length/纤维长度 134$ U0 g) H/ _7 A9 } P9 P
13.1.3 Fiber fineness or linear density/纤维细度或线密度 135 ~( `7 |! c7 r9 D- b- l
13.1.4 Cross-sectional shape/截面形状 135
+ k3 f. {! Z. n3 `& g3 ] 13.1.5 Crimp/卷曲 135
5 L6 [) U% D; E* Q 13.1.6 Regain/回潮率 136$ C0 o5 c, Y. u7 C8 J
13.1.7 Mechanical properties/机械性能 1369 L! x3 k+ ]6 n! p7 d) P
13.1.8 Chemical characteristics/化学性能 136( O4 \. J W- p
13.1.9 Surface characteristics/表面性能 1360 X2 R% S0 s( o m
13.1.10 Density and specific gravity/密度和相对密度 137
0 M3 b% O" q" r 13.2 Special tests for natural fibers/天然纤维的测试 137, T3 r+ m+ G, t$ |0 P# j7 q0 |
13.2.1 Tests for cotton/棉纤维测试 137
7 L" I+ i! f7 s9 } 13.2.2 Tests for wool/毛纤维测试 139. c+ u9 X+ m: u$ }1 N$ ~
13.3 Testing of tensile properties/拉伸性能测试 140
, Z- O0 d: N6 H6 Q; T d* N 13.3.1 Description of tensile proprieties/拉伸性能的描述 141+ U+ U: u0 Q9 y3 }- i& l5 e
13.3.2 Fiber and yarn tensile testing/纤维和纱线拉伸性能的测试 1469 U! I6 f7 ^% k8 q" t8 _
13.3.3 Fabric tensile testing/织物拉伸性能测试方法 147. ~9 {! I" G W# W" |; I+ M
Questions/思考题 149
( r0 Q! K2 ~0 Q% b8 }7 h Chapter 14 Fabric Abrasion and Pilling/织物磨损与起球 150
7 }9 G0 {6 i6 n5 {2 y$ z9 Q% D 14.1 Types of abrasion/磨损的类型 150
7 I' i3 y& Y: Z' X7 E" I 14.1.1 Abrasion between fabrics/织物间的磨损 150 \- h$ T% ^) ?+ H8 L9 H
14.1.2 Abrasion between fabric and a nontextile surface/织物与非纤维制品表面磨损 150# p; \; i3 A# q- I, ?( S
14.1.3 Abrasion within fabric/织物内部磨损 151
9 d3 ^7 y; }6 k 14.1.4 Abrasion by foreign materials within the fabric/与织物内部其他材料的磨损 151- K: `. F7 o3 h3 @ z6 N( N% Y
14.2 Factors affecting fabric abrasion resistance/影响耐磨性能的因素 1519 `! ]0 v: ?' `6 a# w3 S% @6 z7 \
14.2.1 Fabric properties/织物性能 151! o9 H4 C* f) U9 s, S* c: e
14.2.2 Other factors/其他因素 153: f/ b d" r. J3 ~" J- v
14.3 Abrasion testing/磨损测试 154
: L- H: ]6 O" E/ \: J 14.3.1 Visual comparison with an unabraded specimen/与未磨损样品视觉对比 1545 f/ L' v9 D, l0 c- j$ C @. @
14.3.2 Number of cycles to produce a hole/产生磨损破洞需要的摩擦圈数 154- O; v. M+ Q) w& Q9 s+ M% U/ N
14.3.3 Change in a physical property/物理性能的变化 154
8 J* W/ U; [, C" d9 p* e9 D2 U 14.3.4 Microscopic examination/显微镜观测 155
0 Z: o( b7 } H7 e2 S 14.4 Aesthetics of abrasion and wear/穿着和磨损对美感的影响 155
2 \/ T$ l* I6 {) b 14.4.1 Color changes caused by abrasion/磨损引起的颜色变化 155
+ ?- t/ R* B+ U& S& Q 14.4.2 Pilling/起球 1566 b2 S' P2 ^" c
Questions/思考题 157
9 K5 a" h7 ~- N9 ^ Chapter 15 Fabric Hand and Drape/织物手感与悬垂 1584 g v" t6 }* Z# V" i0 f( {: C
15.1 Fabric hand/织物手感 158
5 Z7 f' m, j) @0 i 15.2 Fabric drape/织物悬垂 159
/ `9 B5 @1 I% f- g( V3 F/ ` 15.3 Measurement of hand and drape/手感与悬垂的评价 161
9 V% Q# w% v9 _7 g3 ^( \2 Y2 Z 15.3.1 Subjective evaluation/主观评定法 1617 q, K8 {$ J, o2 t9 @# s+ b
15.3.2 Quantitative measurement/定量评定法 162& y$ W. ~, L( |8 K1 P: _* {* O
15.3.3 Kawabata evaluation system/KES评定法 1636 J$ S: D; l& ^& k% p. W) E
Questions/思考题 163
( k. r( b% D% B& s6 ^ Chapter 16 Fabric Colorfastness/织物染色牢度 164% \1 J ]3 m% f0 a N1 y6 e. R
16.1 Evaluation of color and colorfastness/颜色和染色牢度评定方法 1642 h* B* i9 ]; ^: ?$ H: ^- f
16.2 Colorfastness tests/染色牢度测试 164
2 |' O0 j: }; B$ W9 _! d5 _ 16.2.1 Colorfastness to crocking/耐摩擦色牢度 164
/ G8 @4 U/ p$ e! ^" V, j: K' O 16.2.2 Colorfastness to laundering and bleaching/耐洗涤和耐漂白色牢 1659 G" x" |' s, a' E. g! L
16.2.3 Colorfastness to drycleaning/耐干洗色牢度 166
: O8 p& I' z% r7 N' R 16.2.4 Colorfastness to perspiration/耐汗渍色牢度 166# L$ C; y" Y+ Y1 e! e
16.2.5 Colorfastness to water/耐水浸色牢度 1667 z0 m: b$ q# B7 J
16.2.6 Colorfastness to light/耐光照色牢度 167' `& M7 ?' h# o3 s" e" r; `
16.2.7 Colorfastness to atmospheric contaminants/耐空气污染色牢度 168 R1 Y U+ B5 f2 m5 O' Z& S
Questions/思考题 168
2 L0 E- }7 x+ ?+ M, G( @' q7 t Chapter 17 Fabric Flammability/织物可燃性 169
- Q g1 H- Q& u8 i4 G 17.1 Flammability standards/可燃性标准 169
2 x0 q2 Z4 c( c+ \. Q5 O 17.2 Properties affecting flammability/影响可燃性的因素 169
: m9 i4 y- e9 y8 T0 ^1 f! _ 17.3 Flammability testing/可燃性测试 171
) L' n8 g( `. C0 D k 17.3.1 Forty-five degree angle test/45°燃烧测试法 171% a; ^- `5 x5 O
17.3.2 Vertical flame tests/垂直燃烧测试法 172
x) ^9 A1 t. ] |' @ 17.3.3 Carpet testing/地毯测试 172. G7 m. E0 P3 x( }6 S8 W
17.3.4 Cigarette tests/卷烟点燃测试 172
/ u$ i( }! P& G 17.3.5 Other standard flammability tests/其他可燃性测试 173; j: H0 U. j( O
Questions/思考题 173
9 V( p2 t* a& X/ z Chapter 18 Comfort of Textiles/纺织品舒适性 174
/ _: C- D' ]9 T, { 18.1 Physical phenomena affecting thermal comfort/影响热舒适性能的物理现象 174
/ u x/ Q1 ^( N" h# L1 X 18.1.1 Heat transfer/热传递 174 ]! f8 d( H3 k. D" B. c
18.1.2 Moisture transfer/湿传递 1758 r% X, R; z; }0 k6 k+ s
18.1.3 Water resistance/抗水性 1754 q4 C" {% d# q/ u8 O; {
18.1.4 Air transfer/透气性 176
& s; u- w8 e# o# i/ k# ~) j 18.1.5 Porosity and cover factor/多孔性和覆盖系数 176
2 ?: k0 L, j6 }" b- G& z 18.1.6 Electrostatic propensity/静电 177
9 h$ E0 Q- E" k9 a: W 18.2 Evaluations of textile properties related to comfort/与舒适性相关的纺织品性能评价 177
. r* T, R. w4 S ?# z( W 18.2.1 Heat transfer/热传递 178# v" q% `; N5 s( \/ X
18.2.2 Moisture properties/湿传递性能 179& L$ \& G' O; i& ~
18.2.3 Air permeability/透气性 179% n! V9 h7 m& e
18.2.4 Porosity/孔隙率 180
/ T- J7 r4 y2 d* a) j0 h; @ 18.2.5 Electrostatic tests/静电测试 180" n! N8 ]* G% \. a" W0 Y8 q
Questions/思考题 180
2 j% K2 w( K) J; [Appendix/附录 181
; o3 f/ C/ X9 r# u! ]' Y AATCC:AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS/美国纺织化学家与染色家协会 181) p9 k+ l: y% u# A$ O
ASTM:AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR TESTING AND MATERIALS/美国材料试验学会 184
S7 D2 i' Q$ NVocabulary/词汇表 1896 `2 S& p- B p4 j* u( y
References/参考文献 197) _5 t9 F, _- A+ x+ f
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