
纺织材料学(双语教材),刘妍,熊磊,PDF。普通高等教育“十一五”国家级规划教材(本科),纺织工程专业双语教材,电子目录,14M。. M4 n3 `, C% l3 K4 A) f) L7 [
# p5 P: B+ C. {内容提要8 |* ]1 _+ R! r* G4 B |/ q
本书讨论了纤维、纱线与织物(包括机织物、针织物及非织造布)的结构、机械性能、物理性能及使用性能。涉及的纤维势括天然纤维(如棉、毛、麻、丝等)、传统化学纤维及新型化学纤维。本书同时介绍了纤维、纱线和织物的各种标准测试方法(包括国际上常用的ASTM, AATCC及GB等方法),并讨论了与各种测试方法有关的测试原理及对测试结果的影响因素。% [1 X6 m$ b) ~% o0 }1 l- d* d
本书可供高等纺织院校纺织、服装相关专业的本科生及研究生作为《纺织材料学》的双语教材或专业英语教材,也可供其他专业师生、纺织贸易专业人员和科研及生产单位的技术人员参考。
+ _. k1 l% U' w" n- m' G目录
# M! I, ?" p4 j" E5 a) n) B7 [; k! F; qPart Ⅰ An Introduction to Textiles/纺织入门 18
) F- N' v: a, ^3 A, E6 J3 Y& _ Chapter 1 Introduction/介绍 18
$ J# v6 ] a' I0 d, r" ` S 1.1 ASTM Standard Terminology Relating to Textiles/ASTM纺织标准术语 18
, w8 @% f5 M& @( m- z0 ~; x9 { 1.2 Fiber history/纤维历史 26
: X' y4 {$ \+ D I" q; R" U 1.2.1 Natural fibers/天然纤维 26
/ H4 F4 C: c* n 1.2.2 Man-made fibers/化学纤维 27/ B& |2 d( K7 U# }
Questions/思考题 30/ }. J( \$ o+ E7 M5 w
Part Ⅱ Textile Fibers/纺织纤维 32- J7 s" T- h" C5 ^; H) ^
Chapter 2 Natural Cellulosic Fibers/天然纤维素纤维 32
" ?' k- [( W5 ?+ C3 l( { }' n 2.1 Cotton/棉 33
7 {1 R$ o3 H$ E1 e! [ 2.1.1 Nature of cotton/棉花的种类 33
7 \ T! a/ ]( A: n" R" d 2.1.2 Classification/分类 34
. J: r8 _, |& t: [1 _0 r! O1 x& k# R 2.1.3 Growth and structure of cotton/棉纤维的生长与结构 34) T8 m1 |) q C6 Y* Z5 t8 N
2.1.4 Maturity/成熟度 36/ X9 L0 X5 t; L$ S
2.1.5 Cotton properties/棉纤维的性能 38
! M( ~. m) B O4 x( W( v 2.1.6 Cotton classification/棉花分级 39 K5 d* v/ m! v v$ }4 Q
2.2 Bast fibers/韧皮纤维 40; q5 c7 C# W! u$ e& f, f
2.2.1 Flax (linen)/亚麻,亚麻织物 41
4 r# g) u" m$ g& t$ f 2.2.2 Ramie/苎麻 43" r' l8 S! J# B
2.2.3 Hemp/汉麻 44; F- m+ K) Q4 R* E
2.2.4 Jute/黄麻 441 n. u7 U6 B7 F
Questions/思考题 45
% _/ t4 f# S$ g* ~ Chapter 3 Natural Protein Fibers/天然蛋白质纤维 46
, g/ u+ ]9 k* |/ y5 g 3.1 Wool/绵羊毛 46
/ ~6 z9 j1 O; G8 J$ W 3.1.1 Wool production and history/羊毛生产和历史 464 O( w' m0 U$ f: p! D* {
3.1.2 Wool grading/羊毛分级 47- J" C. R7 M, L7 | J3 o) [
3.1.3 Wool structure/羊毛结构 47
2 x, j9 S: S9 h$ P$ L9 ^, m0 l p 3.1.4 Wool properties/羊毛性能 48, h8 g5 H: V* ^3 \& D
3.2 Specialty animal fibers/特种动物毛 51
4 x1 `8 m+ C, e& t9 ]- Z 3.3 Silk/丝 52
; _ k- z; P. f2 v+ T/ j Questions/思考题 54
, U; S. |; p3 e2 Y Chapter 4 Man-made Fibers/化学纤维 55
! ]7 P9 l& i0 q4 \. f 4.1 Manufacturing processing of fiber/纤维生产工艺 55" b4 Y; H* Z/ E& C
4.1.1 Wet spinning/湿法纺丝 56! R! P, y2 d0 U8 H U4 [& z
4.1.2 Dry spinning/干法纺丝 560 G7 \ P* H- g. x7 S
4.1.3 Melt spinning/熔体法纺丝 564 \! K' y5 t9 G. [( _6 g
4.1.4 Gel spinning/凝胶纺丝 57
& Z' e7 S/ M# q: i" E 4.2 Regenerated fibers/再生纤维 57& I7 t0 p5 D# F% h7 q8 a
4.2.1 Acetate/醋酯纤维 57. o; W5 d+ z* X3 Y
4.2.2 Triacetate/三醋酯纤维 599 l6 y/ X; `9 N+ j. E# J2 ~
4.2.3 Viscose fibers/粘胶纤维 59
4 H) k. M$ s7 j 4.3 Synthetic fibers/合成纤维 60
4 v4 ^; Z1 s; H/ i( {4 }3 q8 F 4.3.1 Acrylic/腈纶 60
" F' F z! j4 D5 a) _4 N 4.3.2 Modacrylic/改性腈纶 616 U1 x' m. E# V
4.3.3 Nylon/锦纶 61; Z& k+ c9 }! D9 |. O% s% `" E- K
4.3.4 Polyester/涤纶 62
3 D) N' K( Y: s1 c6 P 4.3.5 PBI/聚苯并咪唑纤维 63
" ~4 t; y+ Y; E. ?# L+ \; I' T. I 4.3.6 Vinal/聚乙烯醇纤维 63( q) y. B2 y2 U) z+ z+ m
4.3.7 Olefin/聚烯烃纤维 63
8 F! F% ]9 v, m9 x9 u' m 4.3.8 Aramid/芳纶 64
* }0 T- z+ `1 c% l8 Y6 ]' l4 O- g4 k 4.3.9 Lycra/莱卡 64& s2 Y; O1 ^2 N6 _, w
4.4 Other man-made fibers/其他化学纤维 663 O R: N& {) y; S h
4.4.1 Glass/玻璃纤维 666 N4 [! w5 Q4 e
4.4.2 Metallic/金属纤维 67* E! y- {2 C- ^! ?" _ }
Questions/思考题 67
! [, z: z( o" a4 w" j1 N( k Chapter 5 New Fibers/新型纤维 68
. `/ G8 a7 b0 y* G 5.1 Carbon fibers/碳纤维 68
- F9 P! f T# ] 5.2 Fluorocarbon/氟碳纤维 68
1 B6 k) n+ U& o! K% t/ I& K 5.3 Lyocell fibers(Tencel)/莱塞尔纤维 689 q V0 }' T9 F2 o- s5 B" h, ?
5.4 High-wet-modulus fibers/高湿模量纤维 692 V+ ~0 N5 ~8 f( E% o. I9 }/ W
5.4.1 Modal fibers/莫代尔纤维 690 T) e* z1 m; B- Y: ^" Q( |7 i
5.4.2 Richcel/丽赛纤维 70
, j, T8 a" [0 U# v7 x 5.5 Soybean protein composite fibers/大豆蛋白复合纤维 70$ Z9 |3 f# m3 T6 R
5.6 PLA fiber/聚左旋乳酸纤维 71
_: p" e; y; v1 [. I 5.7 Heterogenous fibers/复合纤维 718 k$ q$ n/ t5 m; s$ w3 p& E, o
5.7.1 Bicomponent or multicomponent/双组分或多组分 72 k) e7 U2 [8 _. X3 C5 ?- i
5.7.2 Biconstituent or multiconstituent/双成分或多成分 73! b8 v. g, m- E; U# u
5.7.3 Matrix or matrix-fibril/基质型纤维 733 m9 k1 t* B+ v$ N( h
5.8 Differential fibers/差别化纤维 74
; a0 y: l0 ~: S1 T# N, m# C5 P4 x 5.9 Functional fibers/功能性纤维 74: `* l! [7 u( \0 N; e1 c
5.10 High performance fibers/高性能纤维 74
! o/ y5 z+ z! T3 c8 D& @8 c- i Questions/思考题 74: v( b5 ~3 k& ^9 C. d5 t9 W
Chapter 6 The Property of Absorbing Moisture/吸湿性 75 I( Y- O* T$ c% j) U3 I
6.1 Orientation and crystallization/取向与结晶 750 o5 u; _" @. ~) e. C4 ^8 @: B' l2 F
6.2 Moisture sorption/吸湿性 750 W6 e* I' e4 I" s$ x; W
6.2.1 Regain and moisture content/回潮率与含水率 75
2 Y& C. X6 b" l( ^+ p; o 6.2.2 Relation between regain and relative humidity/回潮率与相对湿度的关系 75! H. m1 n; H/ i) `, l8 O2 m
6.2.3 Comparison of various materials/不同材料吸湿性的对比 76
2 L" f7 a: ~7 z! M, L2 t5 y0 _1 l6 A 6.2.4 Theories of moisture sorption/吸湿理论 78% o: n. ?8 s1 n1 P
Questions/思考题 80! P7 _) x ~) ]0 d6 r! h
Chapter 7 Other Physical Properties of Textile Fibers/纤维的其他物理性能 81
' x0 P& h$ P9 K( F9 D% E 7.1 Electronic properties/电学性能 81' o4 N/ ]* {& q# t, y- `
7.1.1 Definitions/定义 81! d0 Q2 Z7 S6 F' X
7.2 Optical properties/光学性能 82
; L: M: b/ F/ A! [6 d% E 7.3 Thermal properties/热学性能 83
9 w3 @/ |7 m+ U. \7 {4 C 7.3.1 Thermal parameters/热力学参数 83- T6 I8 t6 e9 M o4 K5 @
7.3.2 A comparison of temperature effects/温度效应比较 83% }- R7 J" v5 a2 ]
Questions/思考题 83( e! o, S' t0 { i" z1 r
Part Ⅲ Textile Yarns/纺织纱线 84: @* G6 H6 [1 z2 ~
Chapter 8 Yarn Processing and Construction/纱线制造与结构 849 `, j! R2 ]- K# o' H
8.1 Spun yarns/短纤纱 857 @. Y; L# Y7 U: C! r8 N7 J% O, K
8.2 Filament yarns/长丝纱 85
6 b7 H7 C- F$ q5 }$ ~/ o- M 8.3 Methods of yarn processing/纺纱方法 85
, V; U8 ~' A1 _; J- l1 e5 h# l 8.3.1 Ring-spinning/环锭纺 86
! J% {) y! b" V 8.3.2 New methods of yarn processing/新型纺纱方法 867 a6 X1 v5 r( I( M+ W& v6 t5 P
8.4 Single and ply yarns/单纱和股线 89% j" A Y2 p3 q9 z$ K! l
8.5 Special types of yarn/特种纱线 90, I7 ?! u: D) g* _ P8 W |
8.5.1 Fancy yarns/花式纱 90% h9 f; T- _# c0 s
8.5.2 Stretch yarns/弹力纱 91
- u3 U& s9 F# I, S0 x 8.5.3 Textured yarns 变形纱线 91
, z$ ?2 C+ P4 ^& `* F9 C' e 8.6 Blends and mixtures yarns/纱线混纺与混用 923 V2 u1 E) Z4 \ s/ c6 O4 A
Questions/思考题 93
5 b }6 k0 M/ t8 k3 C* r, J# t Chapter 9 Yarn Properties/纱线性能 945 p2 _' F, h7 C" i7 H/ \* {* {
9.1 Yarn number/纱线细度 94
% e# q [- _, ~1 o! p' k 9.1.1 Denier system/旦数 943 n9 T6 f, y) v
9.1.2 Yarn count system/纱线英制支数 94+ x8 N1 I' z7 _9 F
9.1.3 Tex system/线密度 95
, h. a: s u- g8 I( i n 9.1.4 Metric numbering system/公制支数 95
6 F1 r! k v4 }5 b) C) G 9.1.5 Conversion in different systems/不同系统之间的换算 95
% U1 q; q# z" e* ~0 k, k$ v 9.2 Ply yarn counts and singles equivalent/股线支数与单纱支数 95
, e3 u6 n: z/ _$ @4 @7 E 9.3 Yarn twist/纱线捻度 96
# L5 A% G& f) o' `4 ^ 9.4 Yarn hairiness/纱线毛羽 97# A* N3 k$ k$ y. J# Z# Z
9.4.1 Hairiness test method/毛羽测试方法 98
: b' U8 \, h/ t7 p: s 9.4.2 Factors affecting hairiness/影响毛羽的因素 98
& S0 e5 i4 s, v) B' B, t 9.5 Yarn unevenness/纱线不匀 99) R1 E5 H' t' R j, m
9.5.1 Test of yarn unevenness/纱线不匀的测试 99
7 Q# \# }8 C+ q' h% f 9.5.2 Reasons for yarn unevenness/纱线不匀的原因 100. f: y; z. r3 U( H; j; g& I+ Z
9.6 Classification of yarn quality/纱线质量分析 100
' f3 A# q( V7 j: r/ K/ }# {9 h9 k Questions/思考题 100
* P! z# Q4 O, D6 ^/ G) iPart Ⅳ Textile Fabrics/织物 102
x7 B! b" I E' R) ] Chapter 10 Woven Fabrics/机织物 102
6 p" h7 {9 D: H2 v8 w. J9 m 10.1 Making woven fabrics/织制机织物 102
, h/ e5 e$ q& z% B 10.1.1 The loom/织机 102: P# S A; ~, C% S( x/ N
10.1.2 Loom type/织机类型 104
9 A4 c8 e( K3 [ 10.1.3 Loom motions/织机运动 104% ]( a! j2 e( v2 F4 B" t
10.1.4 Electronics in weaving/电子技术在织机中的应用 105% w. U H/ z& Z, a
10.1.5 The selvage/布边 105$ ^* h% b5 U N; Z
10.2 Warp yarns and filling yarns/经纱和纬纱 1057 s* x! U3 s) B# p' y
10.2.1 Identification/鉴别 106
' n* I& H' }- Y, y, z 10.3 Face and back/正面与反面 106
! [& D) L' v; I% g% u v4 V 10.3.1 Reasons for differenee/存在差异的原因 107
4 y4 W+ E, f. [ 10.3.2 Caution/应用的要点 107
0 J0 t" }4 Y& `* a 10.4 Top and bottom/顶端和底端 107! m6 B8 g; @5 K2 ~5 k: }, I3 {1 N5 F) M
10.4.1 Reasons for difference/存在差异的原因 107
! \8 y! g# I5 R ~$ [9 c4 K1 a 10.5 Weave floats/组织浮线 108
1 |9 f+ g y; k: B* _5 H 10.6 Basic weaves/基本组织 108
& z2 N0 J: n; [6 t/ n 10.6.1 Plain weave/平纹组织 1088 S4 A) B. W2 z! O8 V) x
10.6.2 Twill weave/斜纹组织 109" U/ E. E: u* I: K# o
10.6.3 Satin weave/缎纹组织 111
( b* ^" L; V8 l1 @' D! {0 e+ L 10.7 Fabric performance and characteristics/织物性能和参数 112
. Y6 t, |! t* j: D 10.7.1 Fabric width/幅宽 1120 v) @- a6 @& @ A! X6 N( ^
10.7.2 Fabric weight/织物重量 112
! K1 a; i6 n" {- S9 [+ @ 10.7.3 Fabric thickness/织物厚度 113( R4 s+ R; \) v' Q& A& J
10.7.4 Fabric density/织物密度 113
# e! x) y; A7 ^; r: W9 T 10.7.5 Fabric count/织物经纬密度 113. _! ?6 f: I5 r! E+ `
10.7.6 Fabric defects/织物疵点 113
2 p8 F/ d) p( M$ U- b1 p; c- H0 P Questions/思考题 113
. |& ^" Y" I$ }, S# L Chapter 11 Knitted Fabrics/针织物 114- f% [3 g: j: X/ n. l2 u5 K
11.1 Making of knitted fabric/针织物形成 114
$ f1 p) A: ~" e' H, m8 t9 L 11.1.1 The forming of knitted stitches/线圈的形成 114/ v7 o+ a2 _$ A8 s; |
11.1.2 Types of knitted stitches/线圈的种类 1165 w7 g- Q3 v) _1 T
11.2 Weft knits/纬编针织物 117/ \/ t: R7 ]' K4 t, x$ ~
11.2.1 Jersey knit fabric/纬平针织物 117
1 o4 {" ^ L- ^! f2 Z 11.2.2 Rib knit fabric/罗纹针织物 118
# d# D! u2 |4 }0 ^7 R 11.2.3 Purl knit fabric/双反面针织物 119& c6 H. i. H9 z' \% P% ]
11.2.4 Double knits/双面针织物 120% v5 n# R; v) }0 X4 h; i" T' D y' z
11.2.5 Full-fashioned knits/全成形针织物 1205 X! n# z; N- I( ]# m: ?% @
11.3 Warp knits/经编针织物 1211 k( F6 y/ L. a
11.3.1 Tricot fabrics/特里科经编针织物 121
5 S. T. x: U. w3 ?' F! ^ 11.3.2 Raschel fabrics/拉舍尔经编针织物 122/ k; F; e9 ^6 p* i
11.4 Performance and characteristics/性能和参数 122
2 U" z/ W8 C& |$ L e8 [ Questions/思考题 1237 g8 D9 q9 ^3 w$ \% g) r
Chapter 12 Nonwoven Fabrics/非织造布 124
5 p+ B4 P/ c4 ]( l 12.1 Introduction/导论 124
m& ]/ V. ]) P/ F 12.2 Manufacturing methods/生产方法 125
4 D- `: @7 \; \: | 12.2.1 Dry laid system/干法成网 125
& o$ @4 ?, W' l# X; q2 D. v$ T* ^ 12.2.2 Wet laid system/湿法成网 125
( k' ~1 \8 X7 b& ^- A* s0 A8 h 12.2.3 Polymer laid system/聚合物挤压法 125* B: @; G& ~! P$ t* m0 P
12.3 Various nonwovens/各种非织造布 125
, L% y* ~. \( ^ P K* F% ~ 12.3.1 Needle punched nonwovens/针刺法非织造布 125
' p& M4 K/ m5 Q0 K+ F5 x; K 12.3.2 Bonded web nonwovens/黏合法非织造布 126" ~5 X. y/ Q% b8 j5 D
12.3.3 Spunlaced nonwovens/射流喷网法非织造布 127 N! l3 w/ K, Q. {6 _: a% c
12.3.4 Spunbonded nonwovens/纺粘法非织造布 1284 y2 r9 s0 ~. F6 y
12.3.5 Melt-blown nonwovens/熔喷法非织造布 129& T6 ]$ {" d2 Q/ \. l0 D0 B$ E
Questions/思考题 129
* i' ]7 M& k: P T0 F' Z7 yPart Ⅴ Textile Testing/纺织品测试 130
8 j. ]8 W+ [$ ~3 D" I Chapter 13 General Test Methods/常规测试方法 130
$ r9 B X# E# a- I9 m8 Y 13.1 General fiber tests/纤维常规测试 1302 Q* W, z7 t; ~( V' T% B& D
13.1.1 Fiber identification/纤维鉴别 1308 F' Y# E) f& U* p( h; |0 E
13.1.2 Fiber length/纤维长度 134
* A) i2 v: }* o5 U) h$ i5 }0 p 13.1.3 Fiber fineness or linear density/纤维细度或线密度 1352 `2 u2 u5 z( y! j6 Z3 p; w5 K2 z: P
13.1.4 Cross-sectional shape/截面形状 135
( F! Q" [ z- d9 T3 b1 @1 z- j 13.1.5 Crimp/卷曲 135
# k& P+ ]; N3 G; Z 13.1.6 Regain/回潮率 136
$ G4 W4 L' s$ M) Q. d# W8 M 13.1.7 Mechanical properties/机械性能 136. o/ z4 `$ T6 k2 @9 }1 m
13.1.8 Chemical characteristics/化学性能 1367 i8 {# Q. R4 }% s
13.1.9 Surface characteristics/表面性能 136
" n" j1 D& p5 R" y, c 13.1.10 Density and specific gravity/密度和相对密度 1375 u5 f1 x% u2 n
13.2 Special tests for natural fibers/天然纤维的测试 137; J4 c* Y, T; a9 E j' V( e6 S
13.2.1 Tests for cotton/棉纤维测试 137( a' H1 x" ]# y, s$ a' F3 f
13.2.2 Tests for wool/毛纤维测试 139
5 l1 X. ~* C" v& X4 q3 Q 13.3 Testing of tensile properties/拉伸性能测试 140
) b0 ]+ L `9 ~' g& I 13.3.1 Description of tensile proprieties/拉伸性能的描述 141
" X) S: m+ G$ ~! I 13.3.2 Fiber and yarn tensile testing/纤维和纱线拉伸性能的测试 1467 k9 V1 ?% U& A, r7 ^6 Y, u
13.3.3 Fabric tensile testing/织物拉伸性能测试方法 147/ ^# U4 {5 ]) S2 \
Questions/思考题 1496 f3 `9 s; |) Z0 p( v& s" X P
Chapter 14 Fabric Abrasion and Pilling/织物磨损与起球 150/ p6 B+ A; n1 ~0 X( l. D
14.1 Types of abrasion/磨损的类型 150% S$ B' P W1 F1 r* s
14.1.1 Abrasion between fabrics/织物间的磨损 150
: ]* h5 ~: w& Q$ l1 M( P8 \( T; V 14.1.2 Abrasion between fabric and a nontextile surface/织物与非纤维制品表面磨损 150
; _- U* ^: V; Q: Q! k 14.1.3 Abrasion within fabric/织物内部磨损 151
. r0 h1 |# @0 u7 g U# @ 14.1.4 Abrasion by foreign materials within the fabric/与织物内部其他材料的磨损 151
& x2 H) w' n6 M b0 E 14.2 Factors affecting fabric abrasion resistance/影响耐磨性能的因素 151
2 J) W" Y9 r& L% f' g) K 14.2.1 Fabric properties/织物性能 1517 n3 q: w9 u; [! y
14.2.2 Other factors/其他因素 153
4 s. {; M4 ^: i; ^ 14.3 Abrasion testing/磨损测试 154" B& w5 J; P% A' q6 {
14.3.1 Visual comparison with an unabraded specimen/与未磨损样品视觉对比 154; i# p y1 D' e
14.3.2 Number of cycles to produce a hole/产生磨损破洞需要的摩擦圈数 1541 P; ?3 ?8 D& t; i% z. j. H- A
14.3.3 Change in a physical property/物理性能的变化 154
2 I9 m; S) j( [2 z+ h 14.3.4 Microscopic examination/显微镜观测 1556 G( M7 B# p' @' c' ~' W
14.4 Aesthetics of abrasion and wear/穿着和磨损对美感的影响 155- a8 h% j, ^* v7 f
14.4.1 Color changes caused by abrasion/磨损引起的颜色变化 155
" m. Z& d4 q, V! v; D 14.4.2 Pilling/起球 1564 A) w) v5 Q: v" U+ P% E
Questions/思考题 157
V4 d* b8 F( B5 o; E Chapter 15 Fabric Hand and Drape/织物手感与悬垂 158: Z& W. U' O& n7 r6 w) C4 ^' ~8 t" W
15.1 Fabric hand/织物手感 1580 n9 y% ~1 W& p' f/ i
15.2 Fabric drape/织物悬垂 159- p7 }" v3 T* o
15.3 Measurement of hand and drape/手感与悬垂的评价 161
8 Y; I- j4 F7 V2 [ 15.3.1 Subjective evaluation/主观评定法 161
0 O% q" a8 L/ h# m% R 15.3.2 Quantitative measurement/定量评定法 1620 |* q3 B- _9 q: E1 u7 Y
15.3.3 Kawabata evaluation system/KES评定法 1635 u+ X# R& ~6 P5 [" x
Questions/思考题 163# S$ b$ t! W9 y8 G# R
Chapter 16 Fabric Colorfastness/织物染色牢度 164; K1 [- t1 _; U+ q' K
16.1 Evaluation of color and colorfastness/颜色和染色牢度评定方法 164
+ X. ~2 ]8 T, A0 a* j 16.2 Colorfastness tests/染色牢度测试 164
" X- D8 `* D8 y) `' h/ z 16.2.1 Colorfastness to crocking/耐摩擦色牢度 164
- B: ~- {8 I% W* c. S 16.2.2 Colorfastness to laundering and bleaching/耐洗涤和耐漂白色牢 165
( k& T% I$ z$ F. H, | 16.2.3 Colorfastness to drycleaning/耐干洗色牢度 166; U! v& _1 D; ^" L! L# l! t. K1 p
16.2.4 Colorfastness to perspiration/耐汗渍色牢度 166% E9 E2 T. p. P
16.2.5 Colorfastness to water/耐水浸色牢度 166* ?, m' T9 d; T0 @7 K u
16.2.6 Colorfastness to light/耐光照色牢度 167
- p9 L/ v, h w `$ m 16.2.7 Colorfastness to atmospheric contaminants/耐空气污染色牢度 168/ e( i* U7 `0 G3 w$ }, k2 R9 m% g
Questions/思考题 168
* p: }( q7 y; E# O3 y% O, K# J Chapter 17 Fabric Flammability/织物可燃性 169
" _5 R/ K7 z2 ~! B9 U% o 17.1 Flammability standards/可燃性标准 169
/ S9 D3 {5 h i 17.2 Properties affecting flammability/影响可燃性的因素 169+ z# E" A, E/ i
17.3 Flammability testing/可燃性测试 1713 m3 r$ q$ x+ ]
17.3.1 Forty-five degree angle test/45°燃烧测试法 171
& x! |, X6 Y6 } 17.3.2 Vertical flame tests/垂直燃烧测试法 172
3 O4 t$ \& Q/ M, O8 z+ z; U0 r; N 17.3.3 Carpet testing/地毯测试 172
- g. y1 d0 ^8 H 17.3.4 Cigarette tests/卷烟点燃测试 172
8 e- c& Q: e8 U 17.3.5 Other standard flammability tests/其他可燃性测试 1732 c7 o0 t9 e) ~
Questions/思考题 173
! @5 ~ k }6 m8 R% d; r Chapter 18 Comfort of Textiles/纺织品舒适性 174
& Q- H( @$ Q, O8 g2 p3 W: Y 18.1 Physical phenomena affecting thermal comfort/影响热舒适性能的物理现象 174
8 W6 {' K H" X+ e, \8 m u 18.1.1 Heat transfer/热传递 174# ]; i' W. m1 I7 J7 l/ ^4 X
18.1.2 Moisture transfer/湿传递 175
+ @9 T }& ?& M 18.1.3 Water resistance/抗水性 175
0 I. s1 w0 N/ j6 m" l 18.1.4 Air transfer/透气性 176
+ Q" B' k# I( z9 p" e' R% Y! _ \% ? 18.1.5 Porosity and cover factor/多孔性和覆盖系数 176 r* x, P/ P# g3 ?6 \
18.1.6 Electrostatic propensity/静电 177
' |: X! q5 l! Q: d 18.2 Evaluations of textile properties related to comfort/与舒适性相关的纺织品性能评价 177
) Y0 m0 t& p c$ E: o 18.2.1 Heat transfer/热传递 178
3 K& U, A3 ^6 V% S 18.2.2 Moisture properties/湿传递性能 179- R0 ^ J# e6 D
18.2.3 Air permeability/透气性 1790 o: t+ n7 g- H* g& Z
18.2.4 Porosity/孔隙率 180
/ W. c6 B8 Z7 H! a9 y+ T1 W7 M 18.2.5 Electrostatic tests/静电测试 180
. j4 x( ?0 ^' e Questions/思考题 180' f5 u9 {, j& c5 |. [: H3 M4 ~" F
Appendix/附录 181
' ~/ ~( p% l9 d5 V7 O. d/ V AATCC:AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS/美国纺织化学家与染色家协会 181) ^) K9 M, `& B
ASTM:AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR TESTING AND MATERIALS/美国材料试验学会 184
: Q( l/ z9 j t' oVocabulary/词汇表 189" o. ~0 q: r% f' t
References/参考文献 1979 u' @* ~5 g+ j
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