
纺织材料学(双语教材),刘妍,熊磊,PDF。普通高等教育“十一五”国家级规划教材(本科),纺织工程专业双语教材,电子目录,14M。
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内容提要! s4 X0 y* k3 ~- \2 S) X+ e
本书讨论了纤维、纱线与织物(包括机织物、针织物及非织造布)的结构、机械性能、物理性能及使用性能。涉及的纤维势括天然纤维(如棉、毛、麻、丝等)、传统化学纤维及新型化学纤维。本书同时介绍了纤维、纱线和织物的各种标准测试方法(包括国际上常用的ASTM, AATCC及GB等方法),并讨论了与各种测试方法有关的测试原理及对测试结果的影响因素。# o! L1 n+ ]5 J0 x
本书可供高等纺织院校纺织、服装相关专业的本科生及研究生作为《纺织材料学》的双语教材或专业英语教材,也可供其他专业师生、纺织贸易专业人员和科研及生产单位的技术人员参考。5 g9 H. k- r1 }
目录
2 j7 f: c" z9 }' f, H& YPart Ⅰ An Introduction to Textiles/纺织入门 186 J1 U K& w0 r8 q6 r
Chapter 1 Introduction/介绍 189 Y) \- u/ s* i1 [( Y& F$ ]5 G
1.1 ASTM Standard Terminology Relating to Textiles/ASTM纺织标准术语 18
1 w7 S8 y; t7 S! Q" G( Z+ i 1.2 Fiber history/纤维历史 26( N- s, Z. X: Z3 \4 e: o$ M9 n B
1.2.1 Natural fibers/天然纤维 26
+ x1 v' i, z; E, y e 1.2.2 Man-made fibers/化学纤维 271 o% a9 S. w: {
Questions/思考题 30. w Q2 T& _1 N7 k' m
Part Ⅱ Textile Fibers/纺织纤维 32
$ n7 ?+ e* T3 m$ c Chapter 2 Natural Cellulosic Fibers/天然纤维素纤维 32( D+ ~1 K* R# f' M
2.1 Cotton/棉 33
$ }, D5 Q* h5 U 2.1.1 Nature of cotton/棉花的种类 33
6 m+ s1 n9 b/ i 2.1.2 Classification/分类 348 H- Y6 M( P4 |- s% ]
2.1.3 Growth and structure of cotton/棉纤维的生长与结构 34+ O1 K& Q3 d3 S% ~- A. v
2.1.4 Maturity/成熟度 36
% r) Z7 f1 {0 V7 A 2.1.5 Cotton properties/棉纤维的性能 38 f8 D S, k7 P/ Q$ O5 k B
2.1.6 Cotton classification/棉花分级 39
0 z8 c* J; I& t. c" s 2.2 Bast fibers/韧皮纤维 40* r/ P3 V3 C, k6 m a
2.2.1 Flax (linen)/亚麻,亚麻织物 41* ?6 H( i; h T) X) H6 e
2.2.2 Ramie/苎麻 43, {' U- Y5 P' T4 p8 \' X
2.2.3 Hemp/汉麻 44
* q" ^1 [' R. a 2.2.4 Jute/黄麻 44
! x& j+ U1 @ o& M# @+ G& H Questions/思考题 459 }% u8 I' f' |3 J. M
Chapter 3 Natural Protein Fibers/天然蛋白质纤维 46
4 Z* f# ~0 G% e7 f 3.1 Wool/绵羊毛 46
0 N5 b& s/ e/ k5 R- {* Y 3.1.1 Wool production and history/羊毛生产和历史 464 e( t: X" p8 z2 u; T/ x2 _" R
3.1.2 Wool grading/羊毛分级 47, T; f! K: X! w; t3 R/ R
3.1.3 Wool structure/羊毛结构 477 {: v- W: A* G9 H2 B" f4 P
3.1.4 Wool properties/羊毛性能 48
) J. ]4 s( Y" B8 ?* _( ^ 3.2 Specialty animal fibers/特种动物毛 51
5 o1 u5 v1 e" S5 r/ @" S0 A9 r 3.3 Silk/丝 526 ~9 p& n- ]* W3 P! D( _
Questions/思考题 54# H/ c$ D9 V2 V# s6 _# E6 t k# X, X7 p
Chapter 4 Man-made Fibers/化学纤维 55" c' E) U& g- @# M
4.1 Manufacturing processing of fiber/纤维生产工艺 55$ k; Z" `$ m: X6 p
4.1.1 Wet spinning/湿法纺丝 56
. `7 Q) K/ Z. L$ f8 \ 4.1.2 Dry spinning/干法纺丝 56$ G) E3 b' p( M! T9 j9 Q2 \
4.1.3 Melt spinning/熔体法纺丝 560 E) G2 z. d9 a6 H6 q# k) R2 G
4.1.4 Gel spinning/凝胶纺丝 57
7 p' j% P! m( Z* l" T( Z- s 4.2 Regenerated fibers/再生纤维 57( u9 _! z9 V9 X- Q/ D
4.2.1 Acetate/醋酯纤维 570 u0 K5 l4 \: H* p3 @2 x
4.2.2 Triacetate/三醋酯纤维 59, {6 h0 c7 U, m: Q. B9 U7 a( U
4.2.3 Viscose fibers/粘胶纤维 59
, j' f0 O* D/ x" K1 f 4.3 Synthetic fibers/合成纤维 60
; d; ]8 ]% |7 D- E* i9 b 4.3.1 Acrylic/腈纶 60
; T0 I% f) W/ p 4.3.2 Modacrylic/改性腈纶 61
6 e7 j& x L+ V6 b) L, | 4.3.3 Nylon/锦纶 613 a. f+ K$ o2 T& d
4.3.4 Polyester/涤纶 62
) d$ C, m' Y. ]* Y$ n5 Q; D+ J8 R 4.3.5 PBI/聚苯并咪唑纤维 63
2 l1 B6 g5 R8 v* e% w* s, L 4.3.6 Vinal/聚乙烯醇纤维 63, j- Z) H0 w: j. I* P) M% _
4.3.7 Olefin/聚烯烃纤维 63
$ H8 R1 ?) x. T Q 4.3.8 Aramid/芳纶 64* a% H- m( M* @4 z
4.3.9 Lycra/莱卡 64
0 p9 R7 j/ ?- C2 O 4.4 Other man-made fibers/其他化学纤维 667 N6 } D" P l! g
4.4.1 Glass/玻璃纤维 66
4 f0 E( [4 U7 Q7 v 4.4.2 Metallic/金属纤维 67
9 i6 v- _* P6 M8 w# v! @ L Questions/思考题 67
! P! E3 g: `& p, ~1 F+ N Chapter 5 New Fibers/新型纤维 68
/ |2 O$ I* K! O& Q" B8 O4 Y 5.1 Carbon fibers/碳纤维 68
3 a8 t5 S; |% t `' o 5.2 Fluorocarbon/氟碳纤维 68
/ ^- H% z `% b6 s4 c( o$ t 5.3 Lyocell fibers(Tencel)/莱塞尔纤维 68; r o+ J% U$ m o6 t
5.4 High-wet-modulus fibers/高湿模量纤维 69" y( y: c& _1 }0 Z0 L
5.4.1 Modal fibers/莫代尔纤维 69! w$ }1 a- ^4 q; J4 _6 L9 h( A
5.4.2 Richcel/丽赛纤维 70
0 Q5 d- Q! F7 x* _" \0 V1 p% M+ O+ Y 5.5 Soybean protein composite fibers/大豆蛋白复合纤维 70& C1 l1 P+ P. [0 ~
5.6 PLA fiber/聚左旋乳酸纤维 71% G2 K+ L5 R! _0 ?' g7 V O, B, m
5.7 Heterogenous fibers/复合纤维 71
# M# p1 S. L3 j3 J, B 5.7.1 Bicomponent or multicomponent/双组分或多组分 72
. q$ f( t+ O+ K' d. l9 b# s% i 5.7.2 Biconstituent or multiconstituent/双成分或多成分 736 m6 l |4 a4 o( \/ m1 \
5.7.3 Matrix or matrix-fibril/基质型纤维 73
, s* p# u! B0 f. Z! @. \ e. k 5.8 Differential fibers/差别化纤维 74$ m/ U" P2 d2 l* {
5.9 Functional fibers/功能性纤维 74
0 b0 z7 N, v$ E 5.10 High performance fibers/高性能纤维 74
! C5 B* h4 F* q Questions/思考题 74' F$ p0 l' f2 s$ t
Chapter 6 The Property of Absorbing Moisture/吸湿性 75( {% b! e3 b6 f; g8 E: S
6.1 Orientation and crystallization/取向与结晶 75
$ n: f, ~0 n, A$ F' n( J k8 U3 p4 } 6.2 Moisture sorption/吸湿性 75
/ g6 Q2 s ^8 y! n 6.2.1 Regain and moisture content/回潮率与含水率 75
8 j/ y0 M- ]. |8 T" t; T! e# O- ` 6.2.2 Relation between regain and relative humidity/回潮率与相对湿度的关系 75- T9 W* N \8 C9 L! e' D' F
6.2.3 Comparison of various materials/不同材料吸湿性的对比 76
$ P! I$ A2 {2 v# @- w, v2 O) d 6.2.4 Theories of moisture sorption/吸湿理论 78
5 r4 C2 Z- Z2 y' Z# I Questions/思考题 80) ~# Q4 K& a. Y) ^6 v
Chapter 7 Other Physical Properties of Textile Fibers/纤维的其他物理性能 81" E: Q' n2 Z2 s! o6 j, R5 }2 h
7.1 Electronic properties/电学性能 81
. O- M' Y! {: b 7.1.1 Definitions/定义 813 K0 E# ? x* a! j5 I6 h% k
7.2 Optical properties/光学性能 82
- u/ A/ R! W0 R8 I. Q4 M" }! Y 7.3 Thermal properties/热学性能 83
$ N' A/ X/ J7 b3 Y# t8 I" O- k 7.3.1 Thermal parameters/热力学参数 83
& {/ G/ V7 @. M" a" M9 ^ 7.3.2 A comparison of temperature effects/温度效应比较 83
/ S2 y0 D# |0 }& X; X Questions/思考题 839 M+ |- Y+ T' u% Y& {; L/ Q6 d
Part Ⅲ Textile Yarns/纺织纱线 849 i x8 v$ b, _/ U" i. Z
Chapter 8 Yarn Processing and Construction/纱线制造与结构 840 A% e; k' o( }; j* `
8.1 Spun yarns/短纤纱 85( x) g: a. n" X1 t% h1 T. G! c5 [
8.2 Filament yarns/长丝纱 85
/ m" I. f7 s; C$ }0 J! t 8.3 Methods of yarn processing/纺纱方法 85
9 X$ y9 J9 S# o! p( i+ j1 v9 ^/ G+ _ 8.3.1 Ring-spinning/环锭纺 86: ~; D- C6 p1 v' F, X+ `4 v
8.3.2 New methods of yarn processing/新型纺纱方法 86
1 V8 @- ^' O3 p, V8 J( ]3 \, h- q4 S E 8.4 Single and ply yarns/单纱和股线 89
" V! o) s e) e8 a7 L 8.5 Special types of yarn/特种纱线 908 P: }8 F: e) M: G( @
8.5.1 Fancy yarns/花式纱 90
k/ k% M: Z* ^. p3 z 8.5.2 Stretch yarns/弹力纱 91+ R/ m4 B/ S1 x
8.5.3 Textured yarns 变形纱线 91
) D* b; q4 p% i 8.6 Blends and mixtures yarns/纱线混纺与混用 92' h0 C1 k G" w
Questions/思考题 93
1 Y j }+ W# R8 F" W1 R Chapter 9 Yarn Properties/纱线性能 942 {$ B K0 k; f3 O+ j
9.1 Yarn number/纱线细度 94
7 i* c6 X/ W$ e. M 9.1.1 Denier system/旦数 94
/ z* H$ `7 W$ F$ `# ?+ w$ o6 c$ H 9.1.2 Yarn count system/纱线英制支数 94
% w( C6 n" J7 l- f% G- b X 9.1.3 Tex system/线密度 95& S+ m6 I% Y: y G6 f. A; B# a
9.1.4 Metric numbering system/公制支数 954 V5 k- U3 T2 C; P
9.1.5 Conversion in different systems/不同系统之间的换算 95- r t J9 r8 l
9.2 Ply yarn counts and singles equivalent/股线支数与单纱支数 95; Q0 n" Q2 l& D0 d
9.3 Yarn twist/纱线捻度 96
0 j; E" H5 W3 k0 d/ @) E 9.4 Yarn hairiness/纱线毛羽 97
2 u, _/ E2 T; F6 i9 R 9.4.1 Hairiness test method/毛羽测试方法 98; r: ?! C2 g7 e1 X( I$ t
9.4.2 Factors affecting hairiness/影响毛羽的因素 98 Y8 K; O# t+ y' Y! ]2 @
9.5 Yarn unevenness/纱线不匀 99
1 V. v7 B' o" m+ |4 p" T0 a/ w 9.5.1 Test of yarn unevenness/纱线不匀的测试 99
. u0 k# o+ ?# T6 G6 q5 z! Z 9.5.2 Reasons for yarn unevenness/纱线不匀的原因 1008 h0 R2 M) A5 e' g
9.6 Classification of yarn quality/纱线质量分析 100
7 e2 x. L1 F7 Z. A+ g* Y1 d; {7 R Questions/思考题 100
3 n# i. Y4 I. l; [2 R( k' CPart Ⅳ Textile Fabrics/织物 102
% l x1 f. A$ b# U, f Chapter 10 Woven Fabrics/机织物 102
% B* P) m: m; ~" u6 V% ` 10.1 Making woven fabrics/织制机织物 102
0 ^0 m* i. T% _% ]. Y 10.1.1 The loom/织机 102" e3 Y f2 ^$ Y5 W3 e8 P8 k
10.1.2 Loom type/织机类型 1046 h, u! m& S, v# W) t
10.1.3 Loom motions/织机运动 104
( E7 Z c% E3 d% r y+ Z+ _ 10.1.4 Electronics in weaving/电子技术在织机中的应用 105
) n' c) s, x" `( N R$ l: p& N 10.1.5 The selvage/布边 1050 e4 ?( h4 t6 r8 L$ k7 m: a5 c
10.2 Warp yarns and filling yarns/经纱和纬纱 105! |0 {; j5 p' D: |2 B7 v
10.2.1 Identification/鉴别 106- G# T0 M W7 `) x0 n" P' o+ F
10.3 Face and back/正面与反面 106
6 ]: H+ K/ C0 T" C$ \ 10.3.1 Reasons for differenee/存在差异的原因 107. Q$ {, \3 B2 z7 Q' x$ n8 `
10.3.2 Caution/应用的要点 107& w2 s" y5 x7 J4 t: u9 r" f
10.4 Top and bottom/顶端和底端 107 ?' q, \9 E( S# }& @# \% _
10.4.1 Reasons for difference/存在差异的原因 107
( H y9 S/ g8 Z- Y9 ~* V, Z9 W 10.5 Weave floats/组织浮线 108& J7 k! t* V# d; n9 v6 t3 B- t
10.6 Basic weaves/基本组织 108- ~6 N+ z/ F" X y+ c3 L4 ~
10.6.1 Plain weave/平纹组织 1083 ]! ]0 x4 Z, R4 N, H# N* g
10.6.2 Twill weave/斜纹组织 1091 U# y% a* G$ z# }* M) ]4 v
10.6.3 Satin weave/缎纹组织 1119 V" J" ?# c3 I! C* ^
10.7 Fabric performance and characteristics/织物性能和参数 112
+ u9 w; ~) P9 n: h 10.7.1 Fabric width/幅宽 112# \6 z3 n8 P' _& q0 |; O6 t
10.7.2 Fabric weight/织物重量 112
* j5 @2 ?7 ?8 z1 u E 10.7.3 Fabric thickness/织物厚度 113; N3 ` N3 T7 K U# X
10.7.4 Fabric density/织物密度 113. e- M5 \( J# O
10.7.5 Fabric count/织物经纬密度 113
0 H# t" {& M# B ^ V 10.7.6 Fabric defects/织物疵点 113+ I; r1 O8 x% |3 O5 x1 \8 y
Questions/思考题 113
/ `1 j$ H$ ~4 I7 H9 k Chapter 11 Knitted Fabrics/针织物 114
7 N3 |6 x5 ?0 n% v7 g# b 11.1 Making of knitted fabric/针织物形成 114
% B9 n3 }9 r1 `8 i- w2 Y$ c 11.1.1 The forming of knitted stitches/线圈的形成 114; t) O# K4 f) k/ m6 ^& t4 T
11.1.2 Types of knitted stitches/线圈的种类 116. Y% x! W! Z. D( A; U
11.2 Weft knits/纬编针织物 117
" W+ M, S4 r% r4 k" g' j5 I6 b0 _' d 11.2.1 Jersey knit fabric/纬平针织物 117, i/ i% |( T: ]3 u, @; C1 q
11.2.2 Rib knit fabric/罗纹针织物 118% D3 B, A, q- g+ p+ S% ]0 J7 m9 l) D
11.2.3 Purl knit fabric/双反面针织物 119
/ U' n {# F! a9 o& Y$ v6 Q 11.2.4 Double knits/双面针织物 120
% D3 W! F5 c7 U 11.2.5 Full-fashioned knits/全成形针织物 120
1 Q- d9 v6 X! x( } 11.3 Warp knits/经编针织物 121
! @& j; P7 a, O 11.3.1 Tricot fabrics/特里科经编针织物 1214 p X+ i L% B) [- G/ K
11.3.2 Raschel fabrics/拉舍尔经编针织物 1229 a |. \' E, W' j: Q0 Z
11.4 Performance and characteristics/性能和参数 1229 [2 w6 d+ `; m& t
Questions/思考题 123. R# Z! l P$ v
Chapter 12 Nonwoven Fabrics/非织造布 1245 @2 U# k$ V, Z. R0 i
12.1 Introduction/导论 124
% U; t: c5 l" J# y: k+ d 12.2 Manufacturing methods/生产方法 125
6 R$ N& h: B( Z; w9 { 12.2.1 Dry laid system/干法成网 125
8 q; N$ p4 {2 y9 h 12.2.2 Wet laid system/湿法成网 125
5 Z: l' P2 S2 ~" j0 ^3 { 12.2.3 Polymer laid system/聚合物挤压法 125
! K) [1 D9 [# A8 }* D/ R( Q3 O 12.3 Various nonwovens/各种非织造布 125
; [9 y6 k3 I i% Z 12.3.1 Needle punched nonwovens/针刺法非织造布 1258 I1 f) c7 V( b
12.3.2 Bonded web nonwovens/黏合法非织造布 126
: e* q, o# k0 E 12.3.3 Spunlaced nonwovens/射流喷网法非织造布 1278 g3 \6 R/ O" S, c y$ d6 |
12.3.4 Spunbonded nonwovens/纺粘法非织造布 128
: m: e% H+ C, P( | 12.3.5 Melt-blown nonwovens/熔喷法非织造布 129
" e) w7 }" Q8 i A- V( W! S Questions/思考题 129: V8 U2 g6 { k' W" L' `
Part Ⅴ Textile Testing/纺织品测试 130' u5 I# M X9 G& A. ^! O
Chapter 13 General Test Methods/常规测试方法 130: p9 |) @, C% k' H! P. c) T$ M
13.1 General fiber tests/纤维常规测试 130
1 ^6 B7 \, N5 m0 j- C 13.1.1 Fiber identification/纤维鉴别 130
9 d0 E5 l7 e0 L2 G 13.1.2 Fiber length/纤维长度 134+ ~! S! L( m" y
13.1.3 Fiber fineness or linear density/纤维细度或线密度 1350 A! B0 o) H& o! M. G
13.1.4 Cross-sectional shape/截面形状 135& f" z: d9 g$ ?5 G6 { [
13.1.5 Crimp/卷曲 135
2 M, m- h8 F! B% y, Y( t 13.1.6 Regain/回潮率 136
2 R% v8 \. r9 O* h0 H3 K2 p 13.1.7 Mechanical properties/机械性能 136
/ e2 w, S% i/ |5 ], s3 c' B 13.1.8 Chemical characteristics/化学性能 136
% j+ E, Y* y' y/ }6 [ 13.1.9 Surface characteristics/表面性能 136
2 v6 Z& {7 p* `! K( J; Q 13.1.10 Density and specific gravity/密度和相对密度 137
* }" C( x. } L1 r3 a3 ?$ X( d1 S 13.2 Special tests for natural fibers/天然纤维的测试 137
0 i' F6 E2 O* `4 c5 ]( a; e 13.2.1 Tests for cotton/棉纤维测试 137. d! T2 ]: N) T3 `/ m# h- M
13.2.2 Tests for wool/毛纤维测试 139' s% q7 C+ v) }+ h; V- Z
13.3 Testing of tensile properties/拉伸性能测试 140
( v9 V; Z4 H/ ^4 v4 } 13.3.1 Description of tensile proprieties/拉伸性能的描述 141
d) y0 Y$ \) z+ Q& a 13.3.2 Fiber and yarn tensile testing/纤维和纱线拉伸性能的测试 146
! C5 E/ G3 t/ a0 z, A, c 13.3.3 Fabric tensile testing/织物拉伸性能测试方法 147
1 V* F, w ]8 n7 O! t, ~; v Questions/思考题 149
" ]/ Y( ^3 s, E: r" x* T, ]& W Chapter 14 Fabric Abrasion and Pilling/织物磨损与起球 1507 j- i X5 Y# `" f- N' E# o
14.1 Types of abrasion/磨损的类型 1504 I8 g1 D0 }: h7 g
14.1.1 Abrasion between fabrics/织物间的磨损 150
1 P/ r; A* A) R# d/ d) w( m( e 14.1.2 Abrasion between fabric and a nontextile surface/织物与非纤维制品表面磨损 1501 g, S* G0 Q; ]# R4 A% N7 G
14.1.3 Abrasion within fabric/织物内部磨损 151
5 T$ N; z, D, Z0 N$ E# s 14.1.4 Abrasion by foreign materials within the fabric/与织物内部其他材料的磨损 1518 }% R# b8 V9 m' w' X0 v1 }
14.2 Factors affecting fabric abrasion resistance/影响耐磨性能的因素 1511 q4 A6 }0 E3 [) f9 A- W( G+ Y: @
14.2.1 Fabric properties/织物性能 151
3 Y3 `7 _5 s: K4 B3 K; [6 t7 b 14.2.2 Other factors/其他因素 1530 p5 _- {. s5 i6 X; l0 Y
14.3 Abrasion testing/磨损测试 154
& k$ S5 n" S, {. w( u, \ 14.3.1 Visual comparison with an unabraded specimen/与未磨损样品视觉对比 154
" r7 v2 v8 X5 r3 h ` x7 R( n 14.3.2 Number of cycles to produce a hole/产生磨损破洞需要的摩擦圈数 1541 z* _! m8 V$ n! g
14.3.3 Change in a physical property/物理性能的变化 1544 U" c9 F; F. r
14.3.4 Microscopic examination/显微镜观测 155
$ L# e* s* v5 [ 14.4 Aesthetics of abrasion and wear/穿着和磨损对美感的影响 155
. C$ V1 x4 n6 w4 n$ c 14.4.1 Color changes caused by abrasion/磨损引起的颜色变化 155
; o: K, P, g2 X' u7 G ^( N$ ` 14.4.2 Pilling/起球 156
7 V% _1 L# w+ Z. r Questions/思考题 157! {; c K! `0 T& T, M8 a0 y9 n
Chapter 15 Fabric Hand and Drape/织物手感与悬垂 158
. Q2 w6 e, r4 I; j( m 15.1 Fabric hand/织物手感 158) V2 [: h# q+ O+ E4 O( H& k1 i
15.2 Fabric drape/织物悬垂 1599 W. x' K8 c- O2 c( [! S# E9 i
15.3 Measurement of hand and drape/手感与悬垂的评价 161( L$ L, J$ Q/ B+ H
15.3.1 Subjective evaluation/主观评定法 1611 \ C+ e+ B. G7 K2 R" e
15.3.2 Quantitative measurement/定量评定法 162( `* K5 a: M4 g Z6 [% n
15.3.3 Kawabata evaluation system/KES评定法 163
, j: s. i# Z$ o, P Questions/思考题 163
1 E- D5 _3 G. i* R7 V Chapter 16 Fabric Colorfastness/织物染色牢度 164
: P4 z* w$ _9 `8 i4 c; A/ S2 Q1 o& R 16.1 Evaluation of color and colorfastness/颜色和染色牢度评定方法 164, ?. K, A6 t1 e3 p1 ?
16.2 Colorfastness tests/染色牢度测试 164
, Z* A# m) q( E5 X1 l; ]2 v 16.2.1 Colorfastness to crocking/耐摩擦色牢度 164
" ^7 W7 Q: l5 n' E 16.2.2 Colorfastness to laundering and bleaching/耐洗涤和耐漂白色牢 165
) `$ ^& @! ^' t3 M% I2 E: U 16.2.3 Colorfastness to drycleaning/耐干洗色牢度 166) \. I4 g' H9 D3 n! s5 N7 T2 d
16.2.4 Colorfastness to perspiration/耐汗渍色牢度 1665 n" W+ ~+ v; _* B' m) v. ~
16.2.5 Colorfastness to water/耐水浸色牢度 166
3 `" |5 D& E) j: v) I 16.2.6 Colorfastness to light/耐光照色牢度 167
" e7 v" b/ Y8 S+ V9 U% @ 16.2.7 Colorfastness to atmospheric contaminants/耐空气污染色牢度 168
+ h/ T" x1 M9 {2 u( a Questions/思考题 168
6 ^( x$ X- g1 ~, q Chapter 17 Fabric Flammability/织物可燃性 169
8 f7 I0 F" J1 C+ v0 k" B 17.1 Flammability standards/可燃性标准 169
7 y, _- |0 {! E1 T 17.2 Properties affecting flammability/影响可燃性的因素 169
, M8 K! Q& c/ e. }" V. N 17.3 Flammability testing/可燃性测试 1717 T+ ]1 a. k' {
17.3.1 Forty-five degree angle test/45°燃烧测试法 171) S$ X! ^: K5 e) v4 n! {
17.3.2 Vertical flame tests/垂直燃烧测试法 172
) R; u% p, P! k: t' ?1 D1 d 17.3.3 Carpet testing/地毯测试 172
d: X% j1 p9 ` 17.3.4 Cigarette tests/卷烟点燃测试 172( g) c) E# w# n1 u# [
17.3.5 Other standard flammability tests/其他可燃性测试 173
! v, G# i, Q9 |. y! ` Questions/思考题 173$ O% A0 Q; R8 t3 b1 |
Chapter 18 Comfort of Textiles/纺织品舒适性 174 w5 @2 J% j+ ^. l
18.1 Physical phenomena affecting thermal comfort/影响热舒适性能的物理现象 174
! w k- _" e* G) M* k 18.1.1 Heat transfer/热传递 174 z( i! {5 U; m8 o" i
18.1.2 Moisture transfer/湿传递 175
! v$ y; g% ?9 {! e% x4 u/ s7 C5 S 18.1.3 Water resistance/抗水性 175
" s, D+ v+ }8 h; l5 Z6 R) |' C+ ] 18.1.4 Air transfer/透气性 1764 f4 ~2 j2 n! t! L: ]
18.1.5 Porosity and cover factor/多孔性和覆盖系数 1768 ~" n, X6 m9 W' p1 E' i6 n
18.1.6 Electrostatic propensity/静电 1776 @- H# T) V* T8 g0 C) [" u
18.2 Evaluations of textile properties related to comfort/与舒适性相关的纺织品性能评价 177
5 P" k) r' n% c' ^, P" i' e 18.2.1 Heat transfer/热传递 178
$ H: X3 Q3 @$ q, f8 p 18.2.2 Moisture properties/湿传递性能 179
% R$ ?. v8 ?' Q4 c% G, q3 t 18.2.3 Air permeability/透气性 179/ I& N" b+ J( j
18.2.4 Porosity/孔隙率 1808 ~% {9 X! V2 F* t4 i' x
18.2.5 Electrostatic tests/静电测试 1809 `! c9 {$ C: Q4 E
Questions/思考题 1807 S2 u1 m7 L% U Q
Appendix/附录 1818 y+ f- q$ ~( i0 Q* E
AATCC:AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS/美国纺织化学家与染色家协会 181$ K! t2 p- b" Z0 Y: G' S
ASTM:AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR TESTING AND MATERIALS/美国材料试验学会 184, \& o( A5 \/ ]- m3 T' K3 K
Vocabulary/词汇表 189
& x/ a0 k: e8 C# ]References/参考文献 1974 G' H, S/ K6 j
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