
纺织材料学(双语教材),刘妍,熊磊,PDF。普通高等教育“十一五”国家级规划教材(本科),纺织工程专业双语教材,电子目录,14M。
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内容提要/ w% Q" g# k* U9 a
本书讨论了纤维、纱线与织物(包括机织物、针织物及非织造布)的结构、机械性能、物理性能及使用性能。涉及的纤维势括天然纤维(如棉、毛、麻、丝等)、传统化学纤维及新型化学纤维。本书同时介绍了纤维、纱线和织物的各种标准测试方法(包括国际上常用的ASTM, AATCC及GB等方法),并讨论了与各种测试方法有关的测试原理及对测试结果的影响因素。" V, F Y5 C* L$ t" b8 _1 i
本书可供高等纺织院校纺织、服装相关专业的本科生及研究生作为《纺织材料学》的双语教材或专业英语教材,也可供其他专业师生、纺织贸易专业人员和科研及生产单位的技术人员参考。
5 z" P% J. x. }3 v目录& k' k3 n+ M, J. B# y; H9 S& S2 A7 Y! ~
Part Ⅰ An Introduction to Textiles/纺织入门 181 K3 y1 |% j& n2 z+ n. A8 R: A
Chapter 1 Introduction/介绍 186 ?! z _, q4 `( e! W
1.1 ASTM Standard Terminology Relating to Textiles/ASTM纺织标准术语 18
4 u# R$ w8 @3 m2 {6 j4 O3 C 1.2 Fiber history/纤维历史 269 e8 Q' I$ V- j3 _$ } Y" `
1.2.1 Natural fibers/天然纤维 26( W" m' O' @; ^) n; S* `; a0 N
1.2.2 Man-made fibers/化学纤维 27$ W+ f) n; C8 B# P' f- Z5 k
Questions/思考题 30 `3 r) r1 m8 f2 ^2 a5 _# H. E
Part Ⅱ Textile Fibers/纺织纤维 32
1 r8 K. P6 A4 L D Chapter 2 Natural Cellulosic Fibers/天然纤维素纤维 32* L' Y7 ?( q. N6 j7 K
2.1 Cotton/棉 339 p( n0 }# I% Q
2.1.1 Nature of cotton/棉花的种类 33
5 ]) j9 a3 J" T, E" p& ^6 \ 2.1.2 Classification/分类 34
/ w+ y5 | f. U 2.1.3 Growth and structure of cotton/棉纤维的生长与结构 346 V1 m9 S9 @. f# x( K1 G
2.1.4 Maturity/成熟度 36
1 A0 U# S( j' X0 d) J 2.1.5 Cotton properties/棉纤维的性能 38( r+ H7 }% x' W& N% `
2.1.6 Cotton classification/棉花分级 399 ]) W# q' j$ q4 F5 i
2.2 Bast fibers/韧皮纤维 40
, j0 O! N5 u+ X6 y9 P1 E9 `1 T% l. s 2.2.1 Flax (linen)/亚麻,亚麻织物 414 B' z9 o8 z% B+ E$ t
2.2.2 Ramie/苎麻 43) y9 E9 t- Q( e3 S
2.2.3 Hemp/汉麻 44: K$ T. V2 S- [) k @$ m A5 i9 o. n
2.2.4 Jute/黄麻 44
: \/ [5 m: @1 V, I4 D q Questions/思考题 45
4 y, d& d! P& \# x* a5 Y) w Chapter 3 Natural Protein Fibers/天然蛋白质纤维 46
9 ]* F' P0 G/ D& M" {: Q& e0 @ 3.1 Wool/绵羊毛 465 \) l" p7 k* e
3.1.1 Wool production and history/羊毛生产和历史 46( ^3 H/ V+ P5 [% }$ V: U2 l- ~, e
3.1.2 Wool grading/羊毛分级 47
3 J1 P+ i( g6 ?/ q; Y3 u, `& f 3.1.3 Wool structure/羊毛结构 47
2 I; s0 [; S2 O6 C$ t/ }) v& r 3.1.4 Wool properties/羊毛性能 48
& T& ?+ r5 v% `8 A+ }7 O 3.2 Specialty animal fibers/特种动物毛 51( N6 L3 T% z$ Y+ o4 k
3.3 Silk/丝 52
& V8 |: l$ U! ?* J1 g8 m# _9 @ Questions/思考题 540 y- O4 X0 U( q( H) U; e: p2 l; I
Chapter 4 Man-made Fibers/化学纤维 55: _( c/ {+ h. {! D- h0 n
4.1 Manufacturing processing of fiber/纤维生产工艺 555 ]$ u4 P1 v$ i7 U8 [
4.1.1 Wet spinning/湿法纺丝 560 r s1 ?4 q! O0 T l- w9 N9 }' M
4.1.2 Dry spinning/干法纺丝 56* {& Q) A$ ]& ?% [' A4 {9 a
4.1.3 Melt spinning/熔体法纺丝 56' r+ n' L7 t2 D. ~6 G. v) ]
4.1.4 Gel spinning/凝胶纺丝 57' s8 z# T. j1 j2 M/ n
4.2 Regenerated fibers/再生纤维 57
6 C# z; G; T8 v; `! Q- G) Z, ~ 4.2.1 Acetate/醋酯纤维 579 t3 f$ W% a' h; g" n
4.2.2 Triacetate/三醋酯纤维 59* r3 R3 A: y$ N6 @/ D
4.2.3 Viscose fibers/粘胶纤维 59
+ k9 r7 b: S2 G9 h7 r b 4.3 Synthetic fibers/合成纤维 603 Q$ p# R, |7 C6 S7 z
4.3.1 Acrylic/腈纶 60
, T ~. u; D$ [% u4 {3 I 4.3.2 Modacrylic/改性腈纶 61
, l7 }" w" q" F2 G* C& } u 4.3.3 Nylon/锦纶 61
6 W/ r3 l [* u4 J2 y1 N2 A" K4 ? 4.3.4 Polyester/涤纶 62% Z+ D& l5 Q6 S {( V
4.3.5 PBI/聚苯并咪唑纤维 63: X, x' K5 |, j
4.3.6 Vinal/聚乙烯醇纤维 634 [1 V8 b* d% e! L& S; C: g
4.3.7 Olefin/聚烯烃纤维 63
( {# f4 w/ z/ B3 J, a7 R 4.3.8 Aramid/芳纶 64, [. x) R* }" \ j1 E. u
4.3.9 Lycra/莱卡 64
6 y- k A- \8 o& ] 4.4 Other man-made fibers/其他化学纤维 66, C4 Q' ?/ g4 {* U$ K& p6 E+ Y+ ^9 [
4.4.1 Glass/玻璃纤维 661 o% K1 e* M9 K5 X( @: [
4.4.2 Metallic/金属纤维 67
9 g# P! R7 ^& J, R6 {: [) p Questions/思考题 67# H$ G; |, z, W$ O& w' m% l
Chapter 5 New Fibers/新型纤维 682 R0 s) [- L; o, @6 x
5.1 Carbon fibers/碳纤维 686 Y: }! M5 w9 }
5.2 Fluorocarbon/氟碳纤维 68) g' Y$ @* g5 M
5.3 Lyocell fibers(Tencel)/莱塞尔纤维 68
( G6 S1 [" ^& F, ^, G" B& O 5.4 High-wet-modulus fibers/高湿模量纤维 69
# J! X! y. H) o5 l _( m 5.4.1 Modal fibers/莫代尔纤维 69$ A9 e1 D% ?9 X: X
5.4.2 Richcel/丽赛纤维 70
2 M5 @) v- ^5 M ?0 g8 G9 Y 5.5 Soybean protein composite fibers/大豆蛋白复合纤维 70
2 N0 J& j+ e4 F$ n& D5 ]) t 5.6 PLA fiber/聚左旋乳酸纤维 71' F- m j: w7 f6 }' @7 R+ Y- c( q
5.7 Heterogenous fibers/复合纤维 71
" i$ ^) K8 k" j 5.7.1 Bicomponent or multicomponent/双组分或多组分 72
6 `) {- Y8 Y; Y m9 e+ Y 5.7.2 Biconstituent or multiconstituent/双成分或多成分 730 r! d3 ] S) |4 I7 D7 X$ v
5.7.3 Matrix or matrix-fibril/基质型纤维 73
! F1 c( n+ K/ o# W! B 5.8 Differential fibers/差别化纤维 74
W' `2 z" S; j- G F 5.9 Functional fibers/功能性纤维 74
9 t% x' J6 R7 x1 a" W: x 5.10 High performance fibers/高性能纤维 74
; k" L; D( d' V: c: c$ | Questions/思考题 74
5 K- q, | g+ |' t7 c Chapter 6 The Property of Absorbing Moisture/吸湿性 75
: j+ h, V% |8 W- P4 p 6.1 Orientation and crystallization/取向与结晶 75
4 y# }" f. m$ a. } 6.2 Moisture sorption/吸湿性 754 w+ A ]' `& Z5 E1 a% c. C
6.2.1 Regain and moisture content/回潮率与含水率 759 p+ [% T$ w/ U2 r) ?8 r+ E
6.2.2 Relation between regain and relative humidity/回潮率与相对湿度的关系 75
1 U4 A5 Y5 a. l7 p2 u4 b% K1 r 6.2.3 Comparison of various materials/不同材料吸湿性的对比 76( C% n, n1 q0 Y9 D1 R4 Z
6.2.4 Theories of moisture sorption/吸湿理论 78
) ^) B7 ~8 |$ A, b Questions/思考题 805 x$ r5 { x* E8 M
Chapter 7 Other Physical Properties of Textile Fibers/纤维的其他物理性能 81
3 \! o1 P% y) m6 t( \ 7.1 Electronic properties/电学性能 81
, s( {* T0 f: o: W. w6 u8 b0 ~1 p4 { 7.1.1 Definitions/定义 81 r! G2 E' l2 S$ ^4 g2 r' p9 l
7.2 Optical properties/光学性能 82% f. Q5 U, F5 t" S5 ]" {
7.3 Thermal properties/热学性能 83
! o: R# f4 ?0 Z0 Y 7.3.1 Thermal parameters/热力学参数 83 M$ F3 C0 T$ ~7 v+ f S S3 v
7.3.2 A comparison of temperature effects/温度效应比较 83% [# k" F. j: n. c- |* U6 Z# ]
Questions/思考题 83
7 b! V1 `5 e! R2 mPart Ⅲ Textile Yarns/纺织纱线 84
( K* ]- t6 z9 P Chapter 8 Yarn Processing and Construction/纱线制造与结构 84
2 q! V6 U5 M/ \5 \7 k: v 8.1 Spun yarns/短纤纱 85% o' O/ Z* f& V4 Q" G
8.2 Filament yarns/长丝纱 85
. q; ] G! Z, | 8.3 Methods of yarn processing/纺纱方法 85
/ k, h* `0 _9 w% ~$ R& o 8.3.1 Ring-spinning/环锭纺 86; \" O0 a* ~' u! h. L; J
8.3.2 New methods of yarn processing/新型纺纱方法 86
' c( x8 q! ^) J2 D$ Q5 }, V, r% M2 N 8.4 Single and ply yarns/单纱和股线 89
/ ^+ q. Z& c3 e% @& H 8.5 Special types of yarn/特种纱线 903 g0 p' ^1 u1 h
8.5.1 Fancy yarns/花式纱 901 E* V$ ?: t6 e' [# g
8.5.2 Stretch yarns/弹力纱 91
1 X1 G: Y' l2 P0 Q# e4 w1 |; B8 J' X 8.5.3 Textured yarns 变形纱线 91
4 X0 E# W% X; q6 |- @/ p 8.6 Blends and mixtures yarns/纱线混纺与混用 92
7 J( w( _9 X; S6 I# ? Questions/思考题 93
) y$ Z; y1 d) R) ?6 u) ^ Chapter 9 Yarn Properties/纱线性能 94
+ o$ K/ t- C8 Q 9.1 Yarn number/纱线细度 94
. \$ U: f$ a1 ]. S- m0 W" w 9.1.1 Denier system/旦数 942 X( f0 c5 t; p& C. G! d$ Z
9.1.2 Yarn count system/纱线英制支数 94% O7 K+ [0 k7 T7 a
9.1.3 Tex system/线密度 956 S" I! T' i$ j; s1 ~- {. m
9.1.4 Metric numbering system/公制支数 95" a! h+ ]4 A/ y5 @% A: S; F
9.1.5 Conversion in different systems/不同系统之间的换算 95
2 x. j* q; s: ^ 9.2 Ply yarn counts and singles equivalent/股线支数与单纱支数 955 ` o* T" U0 g: f) X! K6 j \
9.3 Yarn twist/纱线捻度 96
/ D; `2 g( p B8 u7 Y/ z% _! q 9.4 Yarn hairiness/纱线毛羽 97
1 q3 x, }* G4 }1 M9 y5 u3 l+ T 9.4.1 Hairiness test method/毛羽测试方法 98
) ^- ~5 T( g! { T6 Z k+ ` 9.4.2 Factors affecting hairiness/影响毛羽的因素 98
/ P/ H& O. ]7 E1 P! w 9.5 Yarn unevenness/纱线不匀 995 W+ X# m/ ^% L: \$ t; ~
9.5.1 Test of yarn unevenness/纱线不匀的测试 995 W' M- q5 H7 r j+ H
9.5.2 Reasons for yarn unevenness/纱线不匀的原因 100% C; _; y+ z$ u# P, L; ]3 Z
9.6 Classification of yarn quality/纱线质量分析 1003 b; v! M- C, C9 }
Questions/思考题 100
( I; q3 _1 {) H" i; o4 Q. E+ A% jPart Ⅳ Textile Fabrics/织物 102
, ?' g' A& g" l: c9 M Chapter 10 Woven Fabrics/机织物 102( r, O* L9 m+ N M
10.1 Making woven fabrics/织制机织物 102
8 _6 e# g: n; K& p' a$ M 10.1.1 The loom/织机 102
1 g& ` h7 G1 K3 c- ]3 q 10.1.2 Loom type/织机类型 104
& W' G* R1 N9 O, P) `" r5 m: x 10.1.3 Loom motions/织机运动 104
/ z5 Z" s2 c& ?/ p* ^; Y7 X# S 10.1.4 Electronics in weaving/电子技术在织机中的应用 1050 Q* Q! i% q8 j4 p3 [9 M
10.1.5 The selvage/布边 105
2 I: a! ^5 j& f2 W/ |5 W 10.2 Warp yarns and filling yarns/经纱和纬纱 105
8 k7 e, ?/ m% e5 L/ [5 B0 t* u1 U 10.2.1 Identification/鉴别 106
H. d/ G4 j! E7 w' J 10.3 Face and back/正面与反面 106( m& j% ^# r( A$ I {0 S
10.3.1 Reasons for differenee/存在差异的原因 107$ _ W3 I; _) \! L
10.3.2 Caution/应用的要点 107
& ^$ O) {! y% a# f 10.4 Top and bottom/顶端和底端 107
6 r" O( h9 n$ w- d- V 10.4.1 Reasons for difference/存在差异的原因 107: i5 D9 D; R b4 }' }
10.5 Weave floats/组织浮线 108
! Z7 d" a5 \! r7 c& K5 ]- n 10.6 Basic weaves/基本组织 108
) s' n& k+ T) a9 u$ C' P G* ^ 10.6.1 Plain weave/平纹组织 108/ K j* x, }! i; p
10.6.2 Twill weave/斜纹组织 1096 h# c4 I, ~9 H3 U8 h, o9 s9 t& r
10.6.3 Satin weave/缎纹组织 1117 n8 H: _$ t! a4 W3 ~8 n" B
10.7 Fabric performance and characteristics/织物性能和参数 112
! U- w/ a8 @8 m5 ^4 R1 r' } 10.7.1 Fabric width/幅宽 112
2 _( ^2 Q+ K u. v0 Y+ ?1 \$ o. s 10.7.2 Fabric weight/织物重量 112/ X" E( j4 Z8 M6 B/ P0 q+ P6 Z
10.7.3 Fabric thickness/织物厚度 113
- `& Z. c" _! g2 n# [9 I! f 10.7.4 Fabric density/织物密度 113$ A4 D' b- i7 X# P) j
10.7.5 Fabric count/织物经纬密度 113
. T0 Q4 n$ h# b! | 10.7.6 Fabric defects/织物疵点 113+ O. l5 f) W( `5 Y$ X1 o
Questions/思考题 113
# `1 D O! z. O Chapter 11 Knitted Fabrics/针织物 114( Y) F" t* Z+ M$ `
11.1 Making of knitted fabric/针织物形成 1143 _. o K+ t" f" P2 r. O
11.1.1 The forming of knitted stitches/线圈的形成 114
' C2 D' G9 t- q3 N, E 11.1.2 Types of knitted stitches/线圈的种类 116
9 d9 E; _: N* @/ ?" q8 @7 s 11.2 Weft knits/纬编针织物 1175 V7 g. a- u% I9 Q- i! B- v& `8 L
11.2.1 Jersey knit fabric/纬平针织物 117
, K ~/ x/ F5 ?/ o F 11.2.2 Rib knit fabric/罗纹针织物 118
1 V2 u+ t9 B/ T. t( V; X5 K0 F7 X 11.2.3 Purl knit fabric/双反面针织物 119
* Y6 e e# S' U$ Q 11.2.4 Double knits/双面针织物 120
* O' t- t( h" p6 \$ J) J' P 11.2.5 Full-fashioned knits/全成形针织物 120
a& Y2 |& y9 D- l 11.3 Warp knits/经编针织物 121 X1 Y: I' Z8 S; W
11.3.1 Tricot fabrics/特里科经编针织物 121# _ p& i; f; a* U) p# Y
11.3.2 Raschel fabrics/拉舍尔经编针织物 122, y* S2 Q, i# n: `
11.4 Performance and characteristics/性能和参数 122
- d- G8 q' D5 Y- z% r. D$ _) \ Questions/思考题 123
9 S, D6 q3 K8 n& e) Y+ e Chapter 12 Nonwoven Fabrics/非织造布 124$ q* z, x, Y5 g( s" m
12.1 Introduction/导论 124
6 J0 \3 e* g+ L$ L1 X" E 12.2 Manufacturing methods/生产方法 1252 i0 j% U, x. ^( `
12.2.1 Dry laid system/干法成网 125 y5 _! ^$ ]: B
12.2.2 Wet laid system/湿法成网 125' u, n+ _* k" i6 @5 x- A S* D
12.2.3 Polymer laid system/聚合物挤压法 125
' {" `& ^. O' C: H0 P9 o: ~ 12.3 Various nonwovens/各种非织造布 125
6 l' ~7 E7 ~- ]( `& x 12.3.1 Needle punched nonwovens/针刺法非织造布 1259 ~6 U& O+ C4 I: r; A* f! l
12.3.2 Bonded web nonwovens/黏合法非织造布 1266 h9 u3 W$ n3 i5 k5 h$ w
12.3.3 Spunlaced nonwovens/射流喷网法非织造布 127
: g0 g* Y; K( P( u 12.3.4 Spunbonded nonwovens/纺粘法非织造布 128 s1 a/ z2 `- E) \0 z
12.3.5 Melt-blown nonwovens/熔喷法非织造布 129: }/ @$ B9 B' j* x$ h
Questions/思考题 129
) ]( X3 {. l# }8 l1 j6 I" xPart Ⅴ Textile Testing/纺织品测试 1306 u0 [1 [6 R. K ]: H& ?
Chapter 13 General Test Methods/常规测试方法 130
3 Y; l+ \5 \. _; u. U 13.1 General fiber tests/纤维常规测试 130! }& r3 E4 E/ X" m
13.1.1 Fiber identification/纤维鉴别 130
/ Q/ [0 N6 J0 |" c" d5 B, ? 13.1.2 Fiber length/纤维长度 134
6 u8 I+ |; D; k+ o 13.1.3 Fiber fineness or linear density/纤维细度或线密度 135. k8 h N) s& e, `$ @+ F- Q5 k1 S
13.1.4 Cross-sectional shape/截面形状 135# a. i( }+ i/ b+ F% @/ J
13.1.5 Crimp/卷曲 135
# j: o( S8 U5 T 13.1.6 Regain/回潮率 136
9 {! L5 P5 ^" K$ L) @3 w" n6 ^7 C 13.1.7 Mechanical properties/机械性能 136
- m+ i+ E! S# z 13.1.8 Chemical characteristics/化学性能 136
2 Q, a; {/ ~, O4 x 13.1.9 Surface characteristics/表面性能 136! b$ p2 u( X: t; M2 g
13.1.10 Density and specific gravity/密度和相对密度 137
0 m7 Z3 k( k3 L2 q 13.2 Special tests for natural fibers/天然纤维的测试 137
# u% V/ H9 Z6 W+ A0 s7 C* A+ e* W- o 13.2.1 Tests for cotton/棉纤维测试 137: i7 V4 R9 ^; @. \" |
13.2.2 Tests for wool/毛纤维测试 139
! Q% V4 D/ J# b/ R, B o8 a 13.3 Testing of tensile properties/拉伸性能测试 140
. F* `# _ B) m w! a 13.3.1 Description of tensile proprieties/拉伸性能的描述 141+ v* y" J- P- y& d6 g( s
13.3.2 Fiber and yarn tensile testing/纤维和纱线拉伸性能的测试 146
1 f3 L# ^# W2 Z' S$ a 13.3.3 Fabric tensile testing/织物拉伸性能测试方法 147- U7 Y4 X& v% P2 r: T
Questions/思考题 149
( z/ a9 W* B5 n6 y$ c. p Chapter 14 Fabric Abrasion and Pilling/织物磨损与起球 150
5 @5 A/ P/ Q0 |2 c! Z; o 14.1 Types of abrasion/磨损的类型 1508 q% N5 j) z" {9 T
14.1.1 Abrasion between fabrics/织物间的磨损 150# v! x. p0 N, _2 H- m
14.1.2 Abrasion between fabric and a nontextile surface/织物与非纤维制品表面磨损 150
; D3 j; a; H( x# g) N- R0 J 14.1.3 Abrasion within fabric/织物内部磨损 1518 Y5 }' U9 W& j& a
14.1.4 Abrasion by foreign materials within the fabric/与织物内部其他材料的磨损 151
5 w2 z( H3 N+ Q4 i0 m4 C 14.2 Factors affecting fabric abrasion resistance/影响耐磨性能的因素 151) K6 ]1 \' `3 ]5 Q
14.2.1 Fabric properties/织物性能 151( Q' I# b+ R. D5 P5 K# h+ l; _
14.2.2 Other factors/其他因素 153* o4 [4 D! r9 [- c" v# u
14.3 Abrasion testing/磨损测试 154: I1 U" s; y8 S& m1 t! I; c
14.3.1 Visual comparison with an unabraded specimen/与未磨损样品视觉对比 154/ |* P' |+ u9 W( f- y2 ~3 s1 c' `
14.3.2 Number of cycles to produce a hole/产生磨损破洞需要的摩擦圈数 154
* E( S0 l6 q, P' O$ D 14.3.3 Change in a physical property/物理性能的变化 154$ b8 A9 N& ~/ F+ V( H* O4 c9 P
14.3.4 Microscopic examination/显微镜观测 155
x$ h* W% _. w$ _ 14.4 Aesthetics of abrasion and wear/穿着和磨损对美感的影响 155
1 ~4 J$ Q& e3 { 14.4.1 Color changes caused by abrasion/磨损引起的颜色变化 1552 b; i5 ]. e# G% t
14.4.2 Pilling/起球 156
+ P' k7 P! h( k5 l V Questions/思考题 1577 [: D4 A# P5 R3 y9 B7 q, v# n* P
Chapter 15 Fabric Hand and Drape/织物手感与悬垂 158
. G W- j9 r7 |2 Z9 i 15.1 Fabric hand/织物手感 158( z2 m- \4 [2 [# O; G0 D
15.2 Fabric drape/织物悬垂 159/ O' F+ z* R/ ]4 x: r8 E6 J6 F
15.3 Measurement of hand and drape/手感与悬垂的评价 161
5 Q1 ~/ B( L" W 15.3.1 Subjective evaluation/主观评定法 161' z3 n" q* T2 P
15.3.2 Quantitative measurement/定量评定法 162
( h) X- w$ p/ ~ 15.3.3 Kawabata evaluation system/KES评定法 1633 Q9 `; N' g6 }; p0 X. a3 t
Questions/思考题 163
6 y- U, k0 c3 ], X7 O+ p Chapter 16 Fabric Colorfastness/织物染色牢度 164. @, h& [. r4 y
16.1 Evaluation of color and colorfastness/颜色和染色牢度评定方法 164. Q# l# h% U2 I e
16.2 Colorfastness tests/染色牢度测试 1640 a( ?! `; H: q h. W4 V
16.2.1 Colorfastness to crocking/耐摩擦色牢度 1643 j, V& v% a5 J) F/ P: K& T. ~$ d
16.2.2 Colorfastness to laundering and bleaching/耐洗涤和耐漂白色牢 165+ l; ^! `" ~# w, \
16.2.3 Colorfastness to drycleaning/耐干洗色牢度 1662 I% \; m# A% q2 g( I0 _/ U+ V
16.2.4 Colorfastness to perspiration/耐汗渍色牢度 166, D Z6 ^7 a6 S0 X; p
16.2.5 Colorfastness to water/耐水浸色牢度 166% ~" Q8 x& ?9 u& ?. q
16.2.6 Colorfastness to light/耐光照色牢度 1672 e6 V7 \7 Z0 |2 x" m' J. u
16.2.7 Colorfastness to atmospheric contaminants/耐空气污染色牢度 168
0 t; K7 U( |) ~& M0 ^9 s4 _7 ? Questions/思考题 168
$ \! m) i2 k; o% ~* }& `2 p Chapter 17 Fabric Flammability/织物可燃性 169
* V9 m+ o: D% l( N7 j 17.1 Flammability standards/可燃性标准 169/ x% P {0 @$ _- Z- l: t
17.2 Properties affecting flammability/影响可燃性的因素 169+ w7 ~* I8 w# H) g/ C" ?! s/ {
17.3 Flammability testing/可燃性测试 171
3 a8 b ]5 _, X1 u) b9 ~9 O- J! [! d 17.3.1 Forty-five degree angle test/45°燃烧测试法 1714 t5 ^, a7 M3 a
17.3.2 Vertical flame tests/垂直燃烧测试法 172
2 U: D5 a3 N9 ~/ q6 ~6 R0 d% M 17.3.3 Carpet testing/地毯测试 172) }+ s& L p6 b; e; X6 g7 Y; h
17.3.4 Cigarette tests/卷烟点燃测试 172
- C D+ G" V$ f+ V7 \! ]8 D0 e. ~ 17.3.5 Other standard flammability tests/其他可燃性测试 173$ K8 R0 A5 h X# L
Questions/思考题 1735 a( [% |$ B' A; l
Chapter 18 Comfort of Textiles/纺织品舒适性 174
, B/ x. d* ~6 C 18.1 Physical phenomena affecting thermal comfort/影响热舒适性能的物理现象 1747 o4 L" r* E' g+ y
18.1.1 Heat transfer/热传递 174- f: H) e, ^: g1 y0 F6 b. k
18.1.2 Moisture transfer/湿传递 175: D! P. u, ~ I6 `. ^) W
18.1.3 Water resistance/抗水性 1759 {4 B5 J! N, r* C! E
18.1.4 Air transfer/透气性 176! J3 S2 b# C) X0 d/ T8 Q. D
18.1.5 Porosity and cover factor/多孔性和覆盖系数 1769 _8 E# @+ _0 Q' f
18.1.6 Electrostatic propensity/静电 177
% u2 A4 l1 |1 W5 Q+ ?4 n& Y& x7 ~+ F* y 18.2 Evaluations of textile properties related to comfort/与舒适性相关的纺织品性能评价 1779 h3 L5 @2 L) ^, g! U
18.2.1 Heat transfer/热传递 178% T' @+ A) y9 _3 p1 `: j
18.2.2 Moisture properties/湿传递性能 1799 @3 h9 ~9 {& u8 K- ]
18.2.3 Air permeability/透气性 179% [) T6 @ Q0 B5 B, D' g
18.2.4 Porosity/孔隙率 180& ?, I- x1 r, `. E* U* V; r
18.2.5 Electrostatic tests/静电测试 180# j! u$ g) d+ _/ o; S
Questions/思考题 180
9 d/ `' x4 }- PAppendix/附录 181
9 s2 x. J) n: V- j' o AATCC:AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS/美国纺织化学家与染色家协会 1811 W* M% E2 A- B7 b9 N4 ~: v7 S* J- J
ASTM:AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR TESTING AND MATERIALS/美国材料试验学会 184
& K. c' Z9 Y# [/ KVocabulary/词汇表 189: h4 Q2 u/ W C3 X, @# A2 f8 o2 c
References/参考文献 197$ y# `! B$ K) Z7 s1 I+ i0 b5 k
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