
纺织材料学(双语教材),刘妍,熊磊,PDF。普通高等教育“十一五”国家级规划教材(本科),纺织工程专业双语教材,电子目录,14M。6 a6 L) @# C* h# R
c* z: J( ~+ \: Y+ e内容提要3 o8 E) A5 P8 s B) ~2 I
本书讨论了纤维、纱线与织物(包括机织物、针织物及非织造布)的结构、机械性能、物理性能及使用性能。涉及的纤维势括天然纤维(如棉、毛、麻、丝等)、传统化学纤维及新型化学纤维。本书同时介绍了纤维、纱线和织物的各种标准测试方法(包括国际上常用的ASTM, AATCC及GB等方法),并讨论了与各种测试方法有关的测试原理及对测试结果的影响因素。
. j3 f. W, I' ~0 H* ]( G+ d本书可供高等纺织院校纺织、服装相关专业的本科生及研究生作为《纺织材料学》的双语教材或专业英语教材,也可供其他专业师生、纺织贸易专业人员和科研及生产单位的技术人员参考。
( b' j6 L% r8 a目录# Z l" ~* d: @( k, j! `
Part Ⅰ An Introduction to Textiles/纺织入门 18
) f& m, ]5 D' b& Q7 X Chapter 1 Introduction/介绍 18
/ q0 F$ K( b0 G D+ f1 E0 [* l 1.1 ASTM Standard Terminology Relating to Textiles/ASTM纺织标准术语 181 m, N. Z, M' t6 X
1.2 Fiber history/纤维历史 26' K8 A0 U* v6 H( w8 p. c
1.2.1 Natural fibers/天然纤维 26: m8 G2 [1 ]" E3 k. X
1.2.2 Man-made fibers/化学纤维 27
+ ]0 ^- n; i( }3 @" t; ^( c5 [ Questions/思考题 305 P1 u3 a; B: [3 ]3 w
Part Ⅱ Textile Fibers/纺织纤维 328 F; e+ Z: s! _ D3 ~+ z
Chapter 2 Natural Cellulosic Fibers/天然纤维素纤维 32
5 }; h) s0 {; i/ C/ d 2.1 Cotton/棉 33' S B1 p6 y5 [( G7 ]5 I
2.1.1 Nature of cotton/棉花的种类 33
3 T6 ]& ]% o5 w# x5 G3 W 2.1.2 Classification/分类 34
& `; ^* l% q- n* h8 ] I; ] 2.1.3 Growth and structure of cotton/棉纤维的生长与结构 34
$ x! g" K6 R+ R4 e- x7 B 2.1.4 Maturity/成熟度 36
- v4 g' V1 a% Z 2.1.5 Cotton properties/棉纤维的性能 38
( s2 C% [0 @2 v5 x6 G/ c" c, E 2.1.6 Cotton classification/棉花分级 39
3 V! K8 L: ~- i- v8 @- d 2.2 Bast fibers/韧皮纤维 40: P s7 I; [ w& G- h
2.2.1 Flax (linen)/亚麻,亚麻织物 41
4 `: P/ O2 D- o6 r 2.2.2 Ramie/苎麻 43# ]+ ^$ I0 b& {' ~" U
2.2.3 Hemp/汉麻 44
4 _9 g' _( S- P# o: @# } 2.2.4 Jute/黄麻 44
* W7 |: ?4 b. E: s0 x+ K2 q- S Questions/思考题 45, j z+ S3 P# {
Chapter 3 Natural Protein Fibers/天然蛋白质纤维 46 h! ~5 C) _- x; X- r# z, q# w
3.1 Wool/绵羊毛 46# Y |+ M- v M5 C' j
3.1.1 Wool production and history/羊毛生产和历史 466 f3 R$ z0 P1 S8 j7 h% h
3.1.2 Wool grading/羊毛分级 47
k. M+ l9 \" a7 {% `6 p* n5 H! [7 D | 3.1.3 Wool structure/羊毛结构 474 ~* n0 S# Q2 \/ `4 M7 n2 t" a2 a
3.1.4 Wool properties/羊毛性能 48
* }2 u2 l S0 K; ]- |9 t! n* r" n 3.2 Specialty animal fibers/特种动物毛 51
$ X" M9 q3 q6 Z6 e 3.3 Silk/丝 52/ Z2 \+ S: a6 E K3 M6 r$ E0 c
Questions/思考题 54
9 c1 M5 T- @/ \1 j Chapter 4 Man-made Fibers/化学纤维 55
) N6 k3 v8 q- l8 {+ ~ 4.1 Manufacturing processing of fiber/纤维生产工艺 55
. u3 v) y+ F1 Z/ t2 z8 i 4.1.1 Wet spinning/湿法纺丝 56
' u4 v+ `4 g% | 4.1.2 Dry spinning/干法纺丝 56
5 }) c1 S+ w* Z0 m. c 4.1.3 Melt spinning/熔体法纺丝 568 D, z5 Z+ L; s O$ [ x
4.1.4 Gel spinning/凝胶纺丝 576 a9 ]9 B) Q. Y+ B* }: {9 G3 ~/ B
4.2 Regenerated fibers/再生纤维 57& K5 S1 t% L x0 A& q
4.2.1 Acetate/醋酯纤维 579 S- i k, @8 H
4.2.2 Triacetate/三醋酯纤维 59, c1 e f8 {& i2 b$ G; ]* J+ C$ A
4.2.3 Viscose fibers/粘胶纤维 59
) e4 Z& X7 l& l5 @( }# Y 4.3 Synthetic fibers/合成纤维 60% ~7 w ~& \( T1 R) k7 q3 U* J
4.3.1 Acrylic/腈纶 60
3 x# S- ]3 Q( Y& r 4.3.2 Modacrylic/改性腈纶 61
. x" e7 ^5 k) w0 o' `& B/ i, B 4.3.3 Nylon/锦纶 61
& M8 }8 f; m2 M% S 4.3.4 Polyester/涤纶 62; D F1 R9 G# U2 p4 D
4.3.5 PBI/聚苯并咪唑纤维 635 U& ?/ l. t F: c. \5 I, F
4.3.6 Vinal/聚乙烯醇纤维 63
[5 K5 N0 h4 r7 M" } {% ^2 L 4.3.7 Olefin/聚烯烃纤维 63
* K! `9 x# a8 Z' y$ D: c: | 4.3.8 Aramid/芳纶 64
3 Z e+ s) E, V* N2 L& s3 Q 4.3.9 Lycra/莱卡 64
6 V' {) q) N9 |- C* }2 g, T9 l 4.4 Other man-made fibers/其他化学纤维 66( L4 O: Q5 A y5 [" P! `
4.4.1 Glass/玻璃纤维 66# v7 M, J8 p3 g: u+ V0 y
4.4.2 Metallic/金属纤维 67
5 ^& `# k# u7 s0 B2 C/ P7 U Questions/思考题 67, Q! `: G+ \, v; Q6 D
Chapter 5 New Fibers/新型纤维 68/ M7 d! _( ?9 s0 V f: |
5.1 Carbon fibers/碳纤维 682 e5 x! [% Z: t# l
5.2 Fluorocarbon/氟碳纤维 68
: Q& {3 i! G" u t$ F4 ~7 M7 ` 5.3 Lyocell fibers(Tencel)/莱塞尔纤维 68
" U" b; X# ^9 M6 @ 5.4 High-wet-modulus fibers/高湿模量纤维 69
' {5 a' ]' `% Y! q$ b! F) V. x( c 5.4.1 Modal fibers/莫代尔纤维 69
7 K$ @" r2 k; c: w& k/ N 5.4.2 Richcel/丽赛纤维 706 E4 T0 ?1 p* ~9 |
5.5 Soybean protein composite fibers/大豆蛋白复合纤维 70
. W# g" K0 ^, y5 L 5.6 PLA fiber/聚左旋乳酸纤维 71
' t( q8 _3 i7 z1 u 5.7 Heterogenous fibers/复合纤维 71' A0 C- _2 `, k) |1 u
5.7.1 Bicomponent or multicomponent/双组分或多组分 72
6 ~' Z' G" C6 a( [3 a6 T 5.7.2 Biconstituent or multiconstituent/双成分或多成分 73
$ k" d) j; m5 x7 ? 5.7.3 Matrix or matrix-fibril/基质型纤维 73
. j0 T( S! Z. n( l/ a 5.8 Differential fibers/差别化纤维 747 n( S& w* e$ Z+ ^- W/ p
5.9 Functional fibers/功能性纤维 74; } \" D/ Z* I$ q8 A
5.10 High performance fibers/高性能纤维 74
9 i3 s4 O% z8 F8 g/ a: t: }6 { Questions/思考题 741 @( c K& i& n y, d7 k
Chapter 6 The Property of Absorbing Moisture/吸湿性 75
. I2 F5 @/ v+ W: Q 6.1 Orientation and crystallization/取向与结晶 75
9 {0 ?$ ~+ G S. @( W 6.2 Moisture sorption/吸湿性 75
6 B# f8 Z7 S' \. b- ^ 6.2.1 Regain and moisture content/回潮率与含水率 75# i, u' c7 {' S# L/ e( E
6.2.2 Relation between regain and relative humidity/回潮率与相对湿度的关系 757 T1 ?4 n9 E; Q9 t, V1 f
6.2.3 Comparison of various materials/不同材料吸湿性的对比 76
7 w3 d* e, E0 q) Q$ s# h+ N; c 6.2.4 Theories of moisture sorption/吸湿理论 78
6 L. Z5 L+ y# v" n Questions/思考题 804 b- m0 z, @( y3 l7 k
Chapter 7 Other Physical Properties of Textile Fibers/纤维的其他物理性能 815 ?1 N0 A/ D2 q% A9 Y0 k
7.1 Electronic properties/电学性能 81
3 `, x" C3 i& P+ Y 7.1.1 Definitions/定义 81' ~0 _0 V! r0 d9 D
7.2 Optical properties/光学性能 82
4 U7 r% T' L6 v3 ^( z- M 7.3 Thermal properties/热学性能 83( {3 |! W6 K1 e: g" D" U3 C
7.3.1 Thermal parameters/热力学参数 83
+ B) V- `: A2 U: |# a p, W# a 7.3.2 A comparison of temperature effects/温度效应比较 832 u& a5 d; N, f
Questions/思考题 830 O8 s5 S) c# E% T! u5 z
Part Ⅲ Textile Yarns/纺织纱线 84& [4 D! Q" {* s# }4 G
Chapter 8 Yarn Processing and Construction/纱线制造与结构 84
2 M C! b% ^# C# ^) k4 ~ 8.1 Spun yarns/短纤纱 85
' r& K1 s% y; s8 O; m 8.2 Filament yarns/长丝纱 85: x% f6 J0 j0 j1 n) H8 y+ K# u K
8.3 Methods of yarn processing/纺纱方法 85
) ?' M- v' g$ c$ H8 D# }. @4 X 8.3.1 Ring-spinning/环锭纺 86: K) z' L9 C7 Z' {
8.3.2 New methods of yarn processing/新型纺纱方法 86
& D a" h+ D% B& m% x 8.4 Single and ply yarns/单纱和股线 89
& ]* R% I# [% [. _& \ 8.5 Special types of yarn/特种纱线 90
b/ X4 P# @" u. X; T2 B. d 8.5.1 Fancy yarns/花式纱 901 U3 r2 W* ~1 m" q5 X* _) c3 b
8.5.2 Stretch yarns/弹力纱 91
0 v% k6 V: i1 V# m8 g/ a ?* Q 8.5.3 Textured yarns 变形纱线 91; w6 d: X5 D8 |( |' `4 @% L: @
8.6 Blends and mixtures yarns/纱线混纺与混用 92
& E! K: h8 H! W# \3 b( C8 P4 r Questions/思考题 93$ |) T% x% C1 @5 U6 I8 E& @2 ]( e
Chapter 9 Yarn Properties/纱线性能 94
7 g7 _/ ^+ `& \, a. N& Y. l 9.1 Yarn number/纱线细度 94
% g9 g7 F$ U$ h: p: v 9.1.1 Denier system/旦数 94
0 y' g+ T' P. y* @0 @/ h 9.1.2 Yarn count system/纱线英制支数 94
0 y' p4 e9 H: D8 E3 R2 m7 a 9.1.3 Tex system/线密度 95# ^& a ~6 z8 j3 G( m% _9 N" `
9.1.4 Metric numbering system/公制支数 95
- {8 @+ k: N; M! S+ A3 o) O E# l 9.1.5 Conversion in different systems/不同系统之间的换算 95' ]: L8 m% h* x
9.2 Ply yarn counts and singles equivalent/股线支数与单纱支数 955 S3 J1 N o. U& ?: S+ A( U1 L( ] f) o
9.3 Yarn twist/纱线捻度 96
U: z' O% Z5 P E+ T/ | 9.4 Yarn hairiness/纱线毛羽 97
! O; [/ U6 D% _: i1 V$ N6 ]# p 9.4.1 Hairiness test method/毛羽测试方法 98
1 F6 c/ n9 d9 n6 l9 K/ I. T 9.4.2 Factors affecting hairiness/影响毛羽的因素 98 f" d' R% S- S0 A! b' A6 k" n4 K
9.5 Yarn unevenness/纱线不匀 99
A3 v' ~. X! i1 |8 }0 [3 z: ] 9.5.1 Test of yarn unevenness/纱线不匀的测试 99/ R2 V2 h5 N) ~) f: S+ i+ P |
9.5.2 Reasons for yarn unevenness/纱线不匀的原因 100% h' Y: O4 o5 D: N/ s& {
9.6 Classification of yarn quality/纱线质量分析 100
2 Q- v2 \$ n" ] f Questions/思考题 100! ~+ x0 l& i$ Q C, J6 V) c5 O8 w
Part Ⅳ Textile Fabrics/织物 102
( y. R: | V0 w: ~3 Z* ? Chapter 10 Woven Fabrics/机织物 102
% x5 g2 Y* K- r: ]/ A; F, A) w/ O 10.1 Making woven fabrics/织制机织物 102& a' u# U7 G- o! Z6 |
10.1.1 The loom/织机 102
/ X4 K! w$ I' U 10.1.2 Loom type/织机类型 104
6 L `) ?+ s* R& ~$ j4 e; r( u 10.1.3 Loom motions/织机运动 104* g W1 A- o. [) x
10.1.4 Electronics in weaving/电子技术在织机中的应用 105" q6 [. B6 g! ~7 C# }
10.1.5 The selvage/布边 105' b3 V' }" b' u0 s. ?
10.2 Warp yarns and filling yarns/经纱和纬纱 105
8 s5 Y: w/ v& j# l# ?% a- D; N 10.2.1 Identification/鉴别 106! G/ c* h0 m) w8 m8 _3 c1 }
10.3 Face and back/正面与反面 1064 E5 _6 t& u) [, O. e+ z0 _7 P
10.3.1 Reasons for differenee/存在差异的原因 107. |; ?+ _1 C7 b
10.3.2 Caution/应用的要点 1077 S# G+ O5 q% m" w$ B
10.4 Top and bottom/顶端和底端 107
2 y: U3 z! d( @* ]" |; o 10.4.1 Reasons for difference/存在差异的原因 107
9 A1 @: r8 ^/ B. U* q 10.5 Weave floats/组织浮线 108
1 n# `" H. E" w4 J+ G 10.6 Basic weaves/基本组织 108
2 U& Z7 e) B) N* K. V 10.6.1 Plain weave/平纹组织 108
' l: Q: s& Q9 \7 f9 O 10.6.2 Twill weave/斜纹组织 1096 U9 }' o3 E' B
10.6.3 Satin weave/缎纹组织 1119 ], d2 B* W# m
10.7 Fabric performance and characteristics/织物性能和参数 112
9 j7 l& f& W- V3 k6 p* Q& ]" i$ s) u 10.7.1 Fabric width/幅宽 112+ }# m- ~1 d; Z- k/ z4 I0 T; x8 _
10.7.2 Fabric weight/织物重量 112, k5 f3 c8 q7 ?. z; R
10.7.3 Fabric thickness/织物厚度 113" r" k* C% [3 C ?7 ]& r
10.7.4 Fabric density/织物密度 1133 l* i9 [$ s# C! t
10.7.5 Fabric count/织物经纬密度 113
# e; i1 ]/ A1 W/ c) O& o9 A 10.7.6 Fabric defects/织物疵点 113 f1 o) a+ r8 n1 a# s, v
Questions/思考题 113# ? L. j& l& [$ b i
Chapter 11 Knitted Fabrics/针织物 114
% }3 K: f3 I7 I 11.1 Making of knitted fabric/针织物形成 114) H+ Y) _% W* _) ^" N' a6 P) q7 q
11.1.1 The forming of knitted stitches/线圈的形成 114! e* j" p% T4 ^" a6 o; R5 S, f5 O
11.1.2 Types of knitted stitches/线圈的种类 116
, [+ x) e% ^7 A" Q& D. ^ 11.2 Weft knits/纬编针织物 117
: c3 j) [, ~7 W$ w9 I9 y 11.2.1 Jersey knit fabric/纬平针织物 117& L% h) X9 Z! W
11.2.2 Rib knit fabric/罗纹针织物 1185 M5 n0 \. M( d7 H
11.2.3 Purl knit fabric/双反面针织物 119
7 Q7 z2 b9 `/ w0 M' g) Z" Z0 y, W 11.2.4 Double knits/双面针织物 120) _1 P l+ d0 i7 t v
11.2.5 Full-fashioned knits/全成形针织物 120
: W* E* b# w( A; A1 J) d& }' b 11.3 Warp knits/经编针织物 121
Y4 W7 V9 [- [2 A5 }- l0 A 11.3.1 Tricot fabrics/特里科经编针织物 121+ A3 A7 C$ a- z
11.3.2 Raschel fabrics/拉舍尔经编针织物 122
' C( b, [3 D+ t0 Z7 t 11.4 Performance and characteristics/性能和参数 122
: H- m3 Q" e0 v c3 H' V, ^ Questions/思考题 123
S) h2 C% G8 V# b- d! Y Chapter 12 Nonwoven Fabrics/非织造布 124
1 A/ |4 l) b) l7 O5 ^1 |% b" M8 z 12.1 Introduction/导论 1242 f9 O' l8 M- K [: ]1 t
12.2 Manufacturing methods/生产方法 125
9 @# ^- ]( ?3 K+ l& d 12.2.1 Dry laid system/干法成网 125: v6 o4 s3 @8 c
12.2.2 Wet laid system/湿法成网 125. e( v2 k3 `# @% a
12.2.3 Polymer laid system/聚合物挤压法 125# K- O& q! t5 t& _
12.3 Various nonwovens/各种非织造布 125
- t% R6 p k; w+ N% w1 a' ] 12.3.1 Needle punched nonwovens/针刺法非织造布 125
- Q4 s- I& k! Q/ ?5 g 12.3.2 Bonded web nonwovens/黏合法非织造布 126' b; b+ q5 j( [. K
12.3.3 Spunlaced nonwovens/射流喷网法非织造布 127
: G5 F$ u X2 R: ^. }! c 12.3.4 Spunbonded nonwovens/纺粘法非织造布 1287 U" M. v+ X8 r$ I2 {; W
12.3.5 Melt-blown nonwovens/熔喷法非织造布 129* V/ {" [+ C1 c5 B
Questions/思考题 1296 h6 d& E4 a" K, ~) f* {0 ]
Part Ⅴ Textile Testing/纺织品测试 130
5 t: G* q' D' ?, u- c: _ Chapter 13 General Test Methods/常规测试方法 130; W3 F. V& Z- X, z
13.1 General fiber tests/纤维常规测试 130
5 y# K4 k- Z" E1 u7 j6 t 13.1.1 Fiber identification/纤维鉴别 1301 g7 W+ x. f* }, |8 q
13.1.2 Fiber length/纤维长度 134- T+ N( a; ^( g6 x6 ]/ |! Q9 D) I
13.1.3 Fiber fineness or linear density/纤维细度或线密度 135
0 J4 C4 W8 O( }: o) b' U3 Y, V* Y' V: n 13.1.4 Cross-sectional shape/截面形状 135
$ f% q% J. q! N0 ~$ Y 13.1.5 Crimp/卷曲 135
# S M/ {$ ` X0 @+ K 13.1.6 Regain/回潮率 136
! b; f: d6 e# A0 y8 ~4 ]8 X: W# V | 13.1.7 Mechanical properties/机械性能 1367 J# B8 Y" q) S
13.1.8 Chemical characteristics/化学性能 136$ c3 E+ `2 [; N$ g5 G
13.1.9 Surface characteristics/表面性能 136. ]( ]/ F9 ?/ g5 z9 |) d3 H! ?9 T
13.1.10 Density and specific gravity/密度和相对密度 137
P1 g) d* w; z: d0 i! S 13.2 Special tests for natural fibers/天然纤维的测试 137/ u& Q( s# T% E7 x: \9 u+ J
13.2.1 Tests for cotton/棉纤维测试 137: V# n5 _: h1 k O% A: C
13.2.2 Tests for wool/毛纤维测试 139
4 U1 n8 f$ |3 B8 G 13.3 Testing of tensile properties/拉伸性能测试 140
# C. R7 @1 b0 o1 b 13.3.1 Description of tensile proprieties/拉伸性能的描述 141
' s& ?- M' X+ n& Y& c6 c5 g 13.3.2 Fiber and yarn tensile testing/纤维和纱线拉伸性能的测试 1463 X) M' ]/ k4 Y' |
13.3.3 Fabric tensile testing/织物拉伸性能测试方法 1471 M' c/ a3 S9 n! {4 ^+ x# Q) I5 R" U
Questions/思考题 149
3 E! ?( D, s% I2 R3 n0 x. m) `' H Chapter 14 Fabric Abrasion and Pilling/织物磨损与起球 150
* ?+ u# n2 J# x 14.1 Types of abrasion/磨损的类型 150
" S/ G5 }3 a: q! w 14.1.1 Abrasion between fabrics/织物间的磨损 150
' ~- L: |' A8 b" X' A 14.1.2 Abrasion between fabric and a nontextile surface/织物与非纤维制品表面磨损 1503 E4 J f3 N3 {! L; n3 U1 F
14.1.3 Abrasion within fabric/织物内部磨损 1514 j d2 t" g; q& L' s, B
14.1.4 Abrasion by foreign materials within the fabric/与织物内部其他材料的磨损 151
, q) {9 z" _' a8 ]2 n$ Z 14.2 Factors affecting fabric abrasion resistance/影响耐磨性能的因素 151
! f2 C9 T% n& p1 H, j9 ~; Z' y 14.2.1 Fabric properties/织物性能 151
) f( _/ W0 q, k2 H8 G- b5 \ 14.2.2 Other factors/其他因素 153% K- Q$ A* ]1 P' E! o
14.3 Abrasion testing/磨损测试 154& l& u$ W# s- v
14.3.1 Visual comparison with an unabraded specimen/与未磨损样品视觉对比 154) A+ h1 `/ f- t- D# Z
14.3.2 Number of cycles to produce a hole/产生磨损破洞需要的摩擦圈数 154' H9 _' d0 z0 i1 R2 h7 y
14.3.3 Change in a physical property/物理性能的变化 154
$ k7 M. y4 v+ x5 b 14.3.4 Microscopic examination/显微镜观测 155
( m7 j+ m* `" @" U0 d; ]7 d; Y 14.4 Aesthetics of abrasion and wear/穿着和磨损对美感的影响 1559 c/ A0 ]4 e3 m, f! j/ S" G- Z9 R! \
14.4.1 Color changes caused by abrasion/磨损引起的颜色变化 155
, D4 C+ f% O3 y6 d 14.4.2 Pilling/起球 156
8 Z+ _# W7 c! ?! s+ e( d+ d Questions/思考题 157. s+ E/ Z: e& O4 t' \% e; Q
Chapter 15 Fabric Hand and Drape/织物手感与悬垂 158
/ H2 ?( X* h' i$ E' c3 R) i7 g 15.1 Fabric hand/织物手感 158
: u1 z1 \+ F; O" J 15.2 Fabric drape/织物悬垂 159
; \8 O2 ~1 N, O1 _) w 15.3 Measurement of hand and drape/手感与悬垂的评价 161: Q8 \1 O; n& u* v, Q* e6 Z
15.3.1 Subjective evaluation/主观评定法 161
; J) Q$ u; \0 ] F' u1 T, x r 15.3.2 Quantitative measurement/定量评定法 162
$ y& N4 n7 c: A5 b# H, e 15.3.3 Kawabata evaluation system/KES评定法 163$ O& e$ @2 N/ V# v
Questions/思考题 163
0 F8 h0 l7 H+ a! o& j3 B" U Chapter 16 Fabric Colorfastness/织物染色牢度 1649 `) W' h& K6 R d9 g5 }
16.1 Evaluation of color and colorfastness/颜色和染色牢度评定方法 1646 F. V2 z9 f1 A- j
16.2 Colorfastness tests/染色牢度测试 1645 b( }+ n, g/ P4 J) o
16.2.1 Colorfastness to crocking/耐摩擦色牢度 164! Z1 c- _4 e* I+ t5 I: l* A+ h
16.2.2 Colorfastness to laundering and bleaching/耐洗涤和耐漂白色牢 165
5 @# G2 h1 v9 \8 _$ r 16.2.3 Colorfastness to drycleaning/耐干洗色牢度 166
9 Z( Y& a% A/ X7 z% r 16.2.4 Colorfastness to perspiration/耐汗渍色牢度 166( ^3 @& q# W! f" H; V
16.2.5 Colorfastness to water/耐水浸色牢度 166; |" \7 `8 t' F i2 `/ X
16.2.6 Colorfastness to light/耐光照色牢度 1672 D1 K. _! P; H
16.2.7 Colorfastness to atmospheric contaminants/耐空气污染色牢度 168
& Z0 v- V$ R( p* E4 x3 v) g L Questions/思考题 168+ k* t' o$ J- m6 W" v! L
Chapter 17 Fabric Flammability/织物可燃性 169
' _, a6 M- R1 k8 w( e4 S6 C 17.1 Flammability standards/可燃性标准 169
$ H7 N9 A1 q, \& s l 17.2 Properties affecting flammability/影响可燃性的因素 169
6 N( W# k- d, K0 ?- O- X7 Q- S; v 17.3 Flammability testing/可燃性测试 171: Z# g2 e' k& Y# B# d* d. ]8 B
17.3.1 Forty-five degree angle test/45°燃烧测试法 171
9 U5 P& O+ Y( } 17.3.2 Vertical flame tests/垂直燃烧测试法 172 d7 v M1 ?, s+ d* y: L
17.3.3 Carpet testing/地毯测试 172; {+ d) A7 _$ s' Q) e+ h
17.3.4 Cigarette tests/卷烟点燃测试 1722 i0 L" v% b" T0 s' D) f2 j
17.3.5 Other standard flammability tests/其他可燃性测试 173- R4 r" u& Z. ]
Questions/思考题 173, n% |& F( n& t( r3 w2 ?1 o! [
Chapter 18 Comfort of Textiles/纺织品舒适性 1747 w# L. E/ b/ x5 d3 d% A
18.1 Physical phenomena affecting thermal comfort/影响热舒适性能的物理现象 174- }/ ~8 e8 F7 h& ]! J3 r [$ J% `
18.1.1 Heat transfer/热传递 174
/ x. W+ d3 n. _. C! X- I5 N( `* c 18.1.2 Moisture transfer/湿传递 175
( I) z( x- |& x+ [5 s 18.1.3 Water resistance/抗水性 175
0 \+ S) V" f' _% h" x9 u m) U 18.1.4 Air transfer/透气性 176, K: r( y3 h. m A
18.1.5 Porosity and cover factor/多孔性和覆盖系数 176+ p3 K4 l) e5 o1 l
18.1.6 Electrostatic propensity/静电 177* Z+ p3 ?/ n* C, F: S
18.2 Evaluations of textile properties related to comfort/与舒适性相关的纺织品性能评价 177% `$ t5 P& { i( f
18.2.1 Heat transfer/热传递 178
7 ]3 Q2 L" q2 y9 M$ Y! a' X( t 18.2.2 Moisture properties/湿传递性能 1795 R! x( J. N% n- }8 k
18.2.3 Air permeability/透气性 179$ ^9 A/ k' s4 ?4 k q: A$ I+ M3 X: P
18.2.4 Porosity/孔隙率 180% F, Y! y# e: t1 }! S7 Y- w+ B4 R
18.2.5 Electrostatic tests/静电测试 180% v5 y/ [! w) u5 f. l& |; [8 J
Questions/思考题 180( }; d: @! Y y
Appendix/附录 181
0 C$ D4 N2 Z5 x0 \; D7 n* ` AATCC:AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS/美国纺织化学家与染色家协会 181" u% c* S+ r+ r. L0 O r
ASTM:AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR TESTING AND MATERIALS/美国材料试验学会 184
+ p) h: m2 J9 m1 z4 G, L' R; KVocabulary/词汇表 189
- M. {! J! a6 ^& \References/参考文献 1973 m6 _( K: o" o. D
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