
纺织材料学(双语教材),刘妍,熊磊,PDF。普通高等教育“十一五”国家级规划教材(本科),纺织工程专业双语教材,电子目录,14M。( u7 v% }# A8 t' c& q; G
/ E* P$ U8 M5 b" P: M& Z内容提要
7 M8 n. x! V C6 n本书讨论了纤维、纱线与织物(包括机织物、针织物及非织造布)的结构、机械性能、物理性能及使用性能。涉及的纤维势括天然纤维(如棉、毛、麻、丝等)、传统化学纤维及新型化学纤维。本书同时介绍了纤维、纱线和织物的各种标准测试方法(包括国际上常用的ASTM, AATCC及GB等方法),并讨论了与各种测试方法有关的测试原理及对测试结果的影响因素。
* V' P0 s, j2 h% K N9 j本书可供高等纺织院校纺织、服装相关专业的本科生及研究生作为《纺织材料学》的双语教材或专业英语教材,也可供其他专业师生、纺织贸易专业人员和科研及生产单位的技术人员参考。
% k5 p f0 O+ F目录* B0 D8 E4 u( S' H3 n7 J
Part Ⅰ An Introduction to Textiles/纺织入门 18
; S% p# u8 g" N! `3 w Chapter 1 Introduction/介绍 18
8 J" Q3 S4 R( F% O& d 1.1 ASTM Standard Terminology Relating to Textiles/ASTM纺织标准术语 18/ ?+ E! l3 K8 c
1.2 Fiber history/纤维历史 267 m4 a7 {0 [5 X0 n( R
1.2.1 Natural fibers/天然纤维 265 s6 V: P8 _( N( @# j9 {$ q% I; f( v
1.2.2 Man-made fibers/化学纤维 27; I! Z. U5 f2 L% z; \
Questions/思考题 30% u. k6 z; {3 A4 R9 |& A
Part Ⅱ Textile Fibers/纺织纤维 32
; \# ]( m2 ~1 \0 T. a; N' `3 u Chapter 2 Natural Cellulosic Fibers/天然纤维素纤维 32: _4 L, I/ N5 `7 g
2.1 Cotton/棉 33- t$ [% {$ T1 @
2.1.1 Nature of cotton/棉花的种类 33
7 ^0 W" E9 T2 S8 `+ U% } 2.1.2 Classification/分类 34 } I) Z, J6 T* ]. v( Q% V" f
2.1.3 Growth and structure of cotton/棉纤维的生长与结构 347 K9 w' E3 X2 A, G3 C
2.1.4 Maturity/成熟度 36- ^3 _& I+ U6 B1 a2 ?0 L B
2.1.5 Cotton properties/棉纤维的性能 389 k" J8 @: t7 u& g, u
2.1.6 Cotton classification/棉花分级 39
7 ]! }) @) w( ~1 [) j 2.2 Bast fibers/韧皮纤维 403 |4 T$ `7 |/ |3 c- b7 P2 @; H8 G
2.2.1 Flax (linen)/亚麻,亚麻织物 41: Z3 C4 b; e- z, V5 P2 u
2.2.2 Ramie/苎麻 432 w& f" c: V$ V4 Q( t V2 \
2.2.3 Hemp/汉麻 44
* d$ o" x+ q! z$ |& S( Y3 G! Y 2.2.4 Jute/黄麻 44
& T6 J6 p% z! ~% t5 l Questions/思考题 45
4 S. W w; b( P& g* K9 o( ~ Chapter 3 Natural Protein Fibers/天然蛋白质纤维 468 L' n: w! T2 L
3.1 Wool/绵羊毛 464 b# a1 x& V2 Q N8 S& v4 B6 i
3.1.1 Wool production and history/羊毛生产和历史 467 D1 |' }1 M- m% B: c- Z
3.1.2 Wool grading/羊毛分级 47
0 {- o; u T9 K g8 E* v% G5 D 3.1.3 Wool structure/羊毛结构 47/ k5 k9 O8 C" O* M
3.1.4 Wool properties/羊毛性能 48( G+ P! x1 w [# a: D5 q) u- j8 W
3.2 Specialty animal fibers/特种动物毛 514 S2 ]8 I. C1 q: z. `' }' b
3.3 Silk/丝 52
5 @7 f" f7 g3 ^* L Questions/思考题 549 V |8 B7 y+ \' R# z" g8 r. V& C% W) f
Chapter 4 Man-made Fibers/化学纤维 55/ u) X6 E, |8 G. _! N+ \/ I+ N, `( d
4.1 Manufacturing processing of fiber/纤维生产工艺 55* Y$ a& _& q/ M2 l
4.1.1 Wet spinning/湿法纺丝 56
6 f/ k0 ?" m2 T. P7 J A( Z 4.1.2 Dry spinning/干法纺丝 56' n0 o o5 @) X' w/ Y1 f
4.1.3 Melt spinning/熔体法纺丝 562 p/ G) e* N$ j0 K* n$ q9 s
4.1.4 Gel spinning/凝胶纺丝 57; w: w% C4 Y3 t O7 \
4.2 Regenerated fibers/再生纤维 57: p$ g( q# Y! ]$ X& c, h
4.2.1 Acetate/醋酯纤维 578 Y R7 d4 r" B0 N6 Q7 d
4.2.2 Triacetate/三醋酯纤维 59* L7 b9 t* V7 j9 f. P6 E# ^7 \
4.2.3 Viscose fibers/粘胶纤维 59
' _) b: m7 d+ y$ N* N A# }5 A 4.3 Synthetic fibers/合成纤维 60
. @8 ^. I, Q' s0 k+ {" N 4.3.1 Acrylic/腈纶 60+ g2 t& o0 P3 r4 F
4.3.2 Modacrylic/改性腈纶 61) d- X4 P D2 v+ p* u" G
4.3.3 Nylon/锦纶 61
1 O) B* ~5 Z( O 4.3.4 Polyester/涤纶 62
5 K# j; ]7 F, k, \! u& ? 4.3.5 PBI/聚苯并咪唑纤维 63
9 }+ {; N" q& ?6 L 4.3.6 Vinal/聚乙烯醇纤维 63
- R+ e1 F7 _/ T' V 4.3.7 Olefin/聚烯烃纤维 63
i, t" J- ^+ `$ U Z: `: w3 F: A 4.3.8 Aramid/芳纶 64
6 h& x3 R- Z# f, K: M 4.3.9 Lycra/莱卡 643 W1 M" Y5 \% m4 U/ Y! B, n' ?
4.4 Other man-made fibers/其他化学纤维 66
8 u5 R/ a$ ?' R) t4 B4 L- T% z 4.4.1 Glass/玻璃纤维 66
2 |! t& }% o/ @# r; P0 R 4.4.2 Metallic/金属纤维 67
- A, ^/ A2 |6 A) I6 Z' L) D Questions/思考题 67
( S; E, U6 W9 H" z9 E- h! }/ w Chapter 5 New Fibers/新型纤维 68
7 u& V3 }0 U, u 5.1 Carbon fibers/碳纤维 68
3 D7 y% ?2 T+ I, L7 {9 C/ K6 G3 L 5.2 Fluorocarbon/氟碳纤维 686 `. i2 p7 u# `' {
5.3 Lyocell fibers(Tencel)/莱塞尔纤维 68
3 e* h; v: s$ [ 5.4 High-wet-modulus fibers/高湿模量纤维 69( P* F/ Z. \5 @# ]" x4 X
5.4.1 Modal fibers/莫代尔纤维 69 Y: \$ c, X1 B6 r& _
5.4.2 Richcel/丽赛纤维 70
: O2 U9 S. n& c1 e: Q 5.5 Soybean protein composite fibers/大豆蛋白复合纤维 70
$ q& m% o n8 x: g$ w4 F 5.6 PLA fiber/聚左旋乳酸纤维 717 l. P, D) P) l" h b
5.7 Heterogenous fibers/复合纤维 712 R$ p* m: Z; W
5.7.1 Bicomponent or multicomponent/双组分或多组分 72
! ^- E. y+ l6 f6 V9 k7 [ 5.7.2 Biconstituent or multiconstituent/双成分或多成分 73! `; H8 G! g4 u/ q7 K2 C
5.7.3 Matrix or matrix-fibril/基质型纤维 73
4 j) ^. L7 R! L7 h 5.8 Differential fibers/差别化纤维 74
* B/ y" ^- f g; d3 S# h 5.9 Functional fibers/功能性纤维 74+ R4 m2 ?1 Q% s
5.10 High performance fibers/高性能纤维 74
% m9 b/ L0 O: S7 ]/ O' E Questions/思考题 74
9 ]6 j8 y9 ] v( G9 q; {" d/ f) f9 { Chapter 6 The Property of Absorbing Moisture/吸湿性 75! P2 }) M" A H# ^
6.1 Orientation and crystallization/取向与结晶 75% J! N( I. @- i# z9 `
6.2 Moisture sorption/吸湿性 75
& W" ~4 L0 v4 X! K5 S 6.2.1 Regain and moisture content/回潮率与含水率 75: ]0 x2 e% z) R Q7 _' h, D
6.2.2 Relation between regain and relative humidity/回潮率与相对湿度的关系 75
2 r& t; T* s* y, u, z) e 6.2.3 Comparison of various materials/不同材料吸湿性的对比 76- `9 X& G- E, T& s- r. i
6.2.4 Theories of moisture sorption/吸湿理论 787 C6 ^1 O7 ?0 I: H/ R) ^
Questions/思考题 80
+ Q" M' `. H4 z2 C2 r" ] Chapter 7 Other Physical Properties of Textile Fibers/纤维的其他物理性能 815 R# O; z9 F8 |4 A& h- u$ E
7.1 Electronic properties/电学性能 81
9 @( H8 K/ e; Y2 I 7.1.1 Definitions/定义 81
5 y8 L% f1 B1 C 7.2 Optical properties/光学性能 82
6 j2 c. Y$ x+ U! q7 m8 _- j 7.3 Thermal properties/热学性能 83
* y1 H$ D0 @( g4 P, [* e 7.3.1 Thermal parameters/热力学参数 83$ P6 c5 D5 c7 [( k& W* |$ R0 Z
7.3.2 A comparison of temperature effects/温度效应比较 83+ G Z" i2 }1 c9 M
Questions/思考题 83
1 @/ ]" H" O# o9 e+ G9 x1 y! J4 TPart Ⅲ Textile Yarns/纺织纱线 84
; j, {4 h4 d# V Chapter 8 Yarn Processing and Construction/纱线制造与结构 84; U. I5 u5 ?' ^9 `) A$ M% B. o
8.1 Spun yarns/短纤纱 85. n U3 S) o; \/ S7 u4 F; x
8.2 Filament yarns/长丝纱 85# f5 [; }2 I& c- Z7 L; j
8.3 Methods of yarn processing/纺纱方法 85" w# c4 B) v# O- O4 q. |7 B
8.3.1 Ring-spinning/环锭纺 86
6 p+ c6 c" w. d' D: v( H2 T 8.3.2 New methods of yarn processing/新型纺纱方法 86
! _3 q/ M, w% h 8.4 Single and ply yarns/单纱和股线 89
, g6 F( A) ~3 e- Y3 T# L 8.5 Special types of yarn/特种纱线 90; ~ ?- y* ^+ d8 o- ]# F
8.5.1 Fancy yarns/花式纱 90
" P& s/ k* {* L2 Q+ B( x 8.5.2 Stretch yarns/弹力纱 91* k$ Q; E! V+ L3 `8 ~7 n
8.5.3 Textured yarns 变形纱线 91! U5 a {" d/ f- \3 o/ ?: C f
8.6 Blends and mixtures yarns/纱线混纺与混用 92
4 T/ z: Y" Y# z: k Questions/思考题 93
7 o% Q- X0 Y5 R/ D9 d( K Chapter 9 Yarn Properties/纱线性能 94: e9 j' J0 [- Z" @' a
9.1 Yarn number/纱线细度 949 ?2 M& m5 y" ?2 L! F
9.1.1 Denier system/旦数 94- P4 a& [. @8 P7 s, U
9.1.2 Yarn count system/纱线英制支数 94/ N+ V0 H3 H7 k! Q
9.1.3 Tex system/线密度 95% ^" m& z `9 t% f8 ^# J( m: z
9.1.4 Metric numbering system/公制支数 95
% o6 x3 O i/ l8 W$ ~ 9.1.5 Conversion in different systems/不同系统之间的换算 95
# k3 k9 S( R6 l) H5 |/ k1 s 9.2 Ply yarn counts and singles equivalent/股线支数与单纱支数 95
5 v' {5 |1 p1 y 9.3 Yarn twist/纱线捻度 96
% t# s% ?: X+ Y( ] 9.4 Yarn hairiness/纱线毛羽 97, N0 o g$ F: }+ l
9.4.1 Hairiness test method/毛羽测试方法 98
6 [5 T) T6 y5 Y6 ~+ f 9.4.2 Factors affecting hairiness/影响毛羽的因素 98# a8 k( m5 e Q2 h+ l
9.5 Yarn unevenness/纱线不匀 99: a% S% |' W6 o5 M, q. C
9.5.1 Test of yarn unevenness/纱线不匀的测试 99* |6 H7 h: s2 K% v* P& j9 C, ~9 m
9.5.2 Reasons for yarn unevenness/纱线不匀的原因 100' `) M( Z" v( J( k9 x
9.6 Classification of yarn quality/纱线质量分析 100
: M3 S- ]( e- n9 a4 Z1 A2 r Questions/思考题 100
$ B) {! |: ?( H" tPart Ⅳ Textile Fabrics/织物 102+ s3 F' q9 ?7 h) @' i5 i) ]
Chapter 10 Woven Fabrics/机织物 102
3 O+ g& Y m: W 10.1 Making woven fabrics/织制机织物 102
, ^( O2 }4 B% q" g u 10.1.1 The loom/织机 102# F) a6 a; z# c+ a. | m8 {
10.1.2 Loom type/织机类型 104) O( P# R- C2 i
10.1.3 Loom motions/织机运动 104+ E! ~. N3 {: e7 c6 o% D
10.1.4 Electronics in weaving/电子技术在织机中的应用 105
& j( F# _) Q& W0 f 10.1.5 The selvage/布边 105( o0 E( Z. i! Q8 [3 U# b2 o2 D
10.2 Warp yarns and filling yarns/经纱和纬纱 105
4 m( p7 J) }! L2 i! Z 10.2.1 Identification/鉴别 106
5 v! @4 i, T% `% m7 H 10.3 Face and back/正面与反面 106
" h- m+ _ ~1 U7 @ 10.3.1 Reasons for differenee/存在差异的原因 107
1 a; [0 T5 N/ n" m5 S 10.3.2 Caution/应用的要点 107
: J/ S* m( Z* W1 v2 n+ d 10.4 Top and bottom/顶端和底端 107, d9 X6 z0 a0 s8 h% h3 j
10.4.1 Reasons for difference/存在差异的原因 107. o/ e* C2 y- e% p% r+ e; e
10.5 Weave floats/组织浮线 108
# P6 H" F& h% Y1 J1 c. F$ U0 u! ~ 10.6 Basic weaves/基本组织 108: ^7 z& S; }; j
10.6.1 Plain weave/平纹组织 108/ k; x! J9 j4 f; s/ ~- W$ K
10.6.2 Twill weave/斜纹组织 109
' N$ }9 s$ S2 [. t7 |. \* I 10.6.3 Satin weave/缎纹组织 111
5 p8 Y; k) r' z 10.7 Fabric performance and characteristics/织物性能和参数 112
2 n/ U0 A. I$ J2 e- N, a" V* q 10.7.1 Fabric width/幅宽 112
) o% k2 n6 z5 P( G) @ 10.7.2 Fabric weight/织物重量 112; D7 B+ _! B, C5 W5 \6 n6 l
10.7.3 Fabric thickness/织物厚度 113
3 l4 Z M+ \7 C5 j& I 10.7.4 Fabric density/织物密度 1130 L/ ^& H' l: X
10.7.5 Fabric count/织物经纬密度 113
" V# m! [9 ^# K9 j0 ~' Y9 t 10.7.6 Fabric defects/织物疵点 113
! C* l) t& L, Y Questions/思考题 1134 v2 ?9 `0 s- ^! o, V( }3 T7 [9 [
Chapter 11 Knitted Fabrics/针织物 114$ d- s8 \5 @2 \/ c2 [) H& n$ A: D! n
11.1 Making of knitted fabric/针织物形成 114
) x1 }* e2 e' X1 Q3 g! B 11.1.1 The forming of knitted stitches/线圈的形成 114
0 ]% N/ y" i0 u 11.1.2 Types of knitted stitches/线圈的种类 116
/ |# {" E2 A" s% H, G9 |: J: Y' O9 W 11.2 Weft knits/纬编针织物 117
/ B) e" e# p' b7 z1 ^7 F/ e 11.2.1 Jersey knit fabric/纬平针织物 1176 A, C+ Q- L% ?+ ]) u# K" k2 A: C
11.2.2 Rib knit fabric/罗纹针织物 118
/ y6 i" A) U& D" H, ~" q1 ` 11.2.3 Purl knit fabric/双反面针织物 1192 v2 N6 F/ E8 W7 g
11.2.4 Double knits/双面针织物 1202 Z, k+ }# e. _8 h _
11.2.5 Full-fashioned knits/全成形针织物 120" U) Y8 N. T6 t. R) Z# w
11.3 Warp knits/经编针织物 121
9 u! P. L3 Z0 Z 11.3.1 Tricot fabrics/特里科经编针织物 121
$ Y) [ I/ H+ ^4 L l 11.3.2 Raschel fabrics/拉舍尔经编针织物 1222 x% n4 D9 l- D
11.4 Performance and characteristics/性能和参数 122
% j6 Z2 D; Z8 ^+ |# j+ B$ @ Questions/思考题 123
* j7 u! \, i& M0 t: Y Chapter 12 Nonwoven Fabrics/非织造布 1245 ]& o+ S- K4 s# `! p
12.1 Introduction/导论 124; M3 D5 Z0 K2 w3 u. \$ ]$ B
12.2 Manufacturing methods/生产方法 125! A* c1 A" L1 C5 X) \6 k
12.2.1 Dry laid system/干法成网 125: R- l$ d3 G$ q! b. F! p
12.2.2 Wet laid system/湿法成网 125 M; v6 a5 @, @2 b. ~1 v! r* b
12.2.3 Polymer laid system/聚合物挤压法 125
. b' L: D- S7 z8 o7 Z3 ] 12.3 Various nonwovens/各种非织造布 125
6 c/ a+ d+ l* W$ Z8 p 12.3.1 Needle punched nonwovens/针刺法非织造布 125
, c4 S9 j) V: c4 W 12.3.2 Bonded web nonwovens/黏合法非织造布 126
E( v# E, T5 ~5 r, C* c$ w7 j 12.3.3 Spunlaced nonwovens/射流喷网法非织造布 127
$ f5 l" _! V2 q% z 12.3.4 Spunbonded nonwovens/纺粘法非织造布 1288 A) t) I+ N R1 U% x+ v- W
12.3.5 Melt-blown nonwovens/熔喷法非织造布 129. s9 q( ?" r, X
Questions/思考题 129
+ o8 T$ ?6 G+ d* w% I& Q8 lPart Ⅴ Textile Testing/纺织品测试 1303 t8 N8 J o% q" F1 g0 [! G7 _
Chapter 13 General Test Methods/常规测试方法 130
4 w/ e8 w$ _. c1 ?" s6 G 13.1 General fiber tests/纤维常规测试 130
6 q4 c% `( \* I; ?$ H 13.1.1 Fiber identification/纤维鉴别 130
2 I/ v. N* N4 p( s2 Z( H0 x 13.1.2 Fiber length/纤维长度 134# p# T8 \1 g a5 ^9 }
13.1.3 Fiber fineness or linear density/纤维细度或线密度 1357 t1 [0 B- ~! ?6 G$ h) r
13.1.4 Cross-sectional shape/截面形状 135$ n& P* {" y# H, h |) y/ L2 |
13.1.5 Crimp/卷曲 135& ~; J, c! L9 q3 X! S, V
13.1.6 Regain/回潮率 136
% \/ }# E! |6 p/ i [8 w ? 13.1.7 Mechanical properties/机械性能 136
, A9 s# U( t8 E# L" b. @" D r1 j 13.1.8 Chemical characteristics/化学性能 136
7 g% R5 B+ u+ e* e 13.1.9 Surface characteristics/表面性能 136
, H. P; K" N! j2 n* ? 13.1.10 Density and specific gravity/密度和相对密度 1379 c4 h+ R: p- k4 D. U! H( ^3 G/ S
13.2 Special tests for natural fibers/天然纤维的测试 1375 x( l9 G- M* h/ a/ d
13.2.1 Tests for cotton/棉纤维测试 137
' a0 @- B. ]" U L4 R 13.2.2 Tests for wool/毛纤维测试 139 o' f& _2 \2 D! w* D
13.3 Testing of tensile properties/拉伸性能测试 140" L e% T4 Y. g8 Z
13.3.1 Description of tensile proprieties/拉伸性能的描述 141
# S( K$ h3 u! x 13.3.2 Fiber and yarn tensile testing/纤维和纱线拉伸性能的测试 146
8 G' Q6 Q7 `$ h2 a# y 13.3.3 Fabric tensile testing/织物拉伸性能测试方法 1470 O) q) }5 P! T8 h. m, o
Questions/思考题 149) |" p+ l( ^9 E# u6 [5 J( X% w
Chapter 14 Fabric Abrasion and Pilling/织物磨损与起球 1503 Y4 z6 j, y+ N: [2 J+ {, _
14.1 Types of abrasion/磨损的类型 150+ X1 i( W, K6 I1 B
14.1.1 Abrasion between fabrics/织物间的磨损 1501 A b3 I" O; z: k# l/ x
14.1.2 Abrasion between fabric and a nontextile surface/织物与非纤维制品表面磨损 150
* b- l; B0 A! f8 E6 c | 14.1.3 Abrasion within fabric/织物内部磨损 151
% ~3 B$ ?8 H L; S. b7 y 14.1.4 Abrasion by foreign materials within the fabric/与织物内部其他材料的磨损 151
, c3 w9 c' r$ d7 [+ q6 m: p! D 14.2 Factors affecting fabric abrasion resistance/影响耐磨性能的因素 151& S. X. K. c" Z; p* d- s
14.2.1 Fabric properties/织物性能 1512 X( U9 O: P1 M9 S
14.2.2 Other factors/其他因素 153
- n7 E `6 S0 ]7 n8 t2 C, ]& p) E# ~ 14.3 Abrasion testing/磨损测试 154
8 w* M1 H/ R# M, O6 K! F 14.3.1 Visual comparison with an unabraded specimen/与未磨损样品视觉对比 154( `8 [/ W* V& V+ J. e& B% R! `
14.3.2 Number of cycles to produce a hole/产生磨损破洞需要的摩擦圈数 154
% @ X% g: i( u8 L' K 14.3.3 Change in a physical property/物理性能的变化 154/ s9 X4 F, l6 q9 \6 [ c
14.3.4 Microscopic examination/显微镜观测 155
$ T9 H2 j& {5 i: B- t 14.4 Aesthetics of abrasion and wear/穿着和磨损对美感的影响 155( n5 X* x7 F! y \/ g
14.4.1 Color changes caused by abrasion/磨损引起的颜色变化 155! a" Q& f* W; A: }* U
14.4.2 Pilling/起球 156
1 I( s4 j( ^3 q9 i2 H( j6 W! y Questions/思考题 1572 x/ Q4 G9 Q. y
Chapter 15 Fabric Hand and Drape/织物手感与悬垂 1583 L. w8 j$ L4 E+ }0 D4 B1 J
15.1 Fabric hand/织物手感 158 W0 m% n3 w1 ?+ V+ v3 V |9 a
15.2 Fabric drape/织物悬垂 159/ w/ v1 ~+ }+ D/ ^- W/ p
15.3 Measurement of hand and drape/手感与悬垂的评价 161
5 W0 e( p5 h/ a+ c* o 15.3.1 Subjective evaluation/主观评定法 1616 a5 r5 g D* k7 E, v" n
15.3.2 Quantitative measurement/定量评定法 1620 e1 ?6 _/ u5 m T5 B5 J5 k
15.3.3 Kawabata evaluation system/KES评定法 163
3 |9 e {( H9 Z Questions/思考题 1631 _: \4 F4 h& l/ d: u
Chapter 16 Fabric Colorfastness/织物染色牢度 164$ y, S: i! e- u) T# |
16.1 Evaluation of color and colorfastness/颜色和染色牢度评定方法 164
3 p, I0 X$ f# X8 R0 A, R- H% H 16.2 Colorfastness tests/染色牢度测试 164( Y0 k) c0 O& @: ]/ p$ ~$ s4 @
16.2.1 Colorfastness to crocking/耐摩擦色牢度 164# I/ c2 m) V$ _2 Y8 I8 u6 f
16.2.2 Colorfastness to laundering and bleaching/耐洗涤和耐漂白色牢 165
/ N* w: y2 c: t$ Q' O8 p7 {% w* p 16.2.3 Colorfastness to drycleaning/耐干洗色牢度 166" [4 e7 w+ {) v. O6 H% d3 t5 l
16.2.4 Colorfastness to perspiration/耐汗渍色牢度 166
# V$ a" M& x6 z. b* K: @ 16.2.5 Colorfastness to water/耐水浸色牢度 166
: R1 a5 _& O/ i; \3 t, {. w 16.2.6 Colorfastness to light/耐光照色牢度 167
p+ j$ c7 D5 j3 | 16.2.7 Colorfastness to atmospheric contaminants/耐空气污染色牢度 168
: v8 c( P& d5 M! a Questions/思考题 1684 h$ w0 I8 B, \: Y
Chapter 17 Fabric Flammability/织物可燃性 169
w2 M$ Q7 G! l" V& c3 _0 a e 17.1 Flammability standards/可燃性标准 1691 `* V. \* D* {% U3 t. a6 l& x
17.2 Properties affecting flammability/影响可燃性的因素 169
- k! H4 ^- R% [ [/ U* l- z+ H 17.3 Flammability testing/可燃性测试 171. L$ G, [) k/ h# t
17.3.1 Forty-five degree angle test/45°燃烧测试法 171
2 v- N' S2 g. J7 T5 z+ {) G: x 17.3.2 Vertical flame tests/垂直燃烧测试法 172& {5 K8 ~/ q+ \7 k F. W
17.3.3 Carpet testing/地毯测试 172
. `- m. a9 q8 p 17.3.4 Cigarette tests/卷烟点燃测试 172
1 V* F/ N/ P/ D5 J8 Z 17.3.5 Other standard flammability tests/其他可燃性测试 173- ~ W5 z/ B$ F4 o
Questions/思考题 173
+ m4 ~9 W) V* [ Chapter 18 Comfort of Textiles/纺织品舒适性 174. ], q3 ?) _! a! O2 |$ I8 s/ b
18.1 Physical phenomena affecting thermal comfort/影响热舒适性能的物理现象 174
9 M; |- q* F. n: M 18.1.1 Heat transfer/热传递 174/ v" w7 ~0 [' i8 {
18.1.2 Moisture transfer/湿传递 175
4 [9 u/ S8 E0 S7 V+ P* l8 l; a( y# p3 S 18.1.3 Water resistance/抗水性 175/ K- G; `8 Q2 |7 t- K
18.1.4 Air transfer/透气性 176
8 f7 g/ b: V3 f) L" Q, |$ G 18.1.5 Porosity and cover factor/多孔性和覆盖系数 176- `$ j9 {. K w) @
18.1.6 Electrostatic propensity/静电 177
. Y$ {; s5 I5 U# Q( \ 18.2 Evaluations of textile properties related to comfort/与舒适性相关的纺织品性能评价 177
! n; C6 R* F7 V( N 18.2.1 Heat transfer/热传递 178! L$ ?8 ]' ~7 u
18.2.2 Moisture properties/湿传递性能 179; ?6 o- y. J7 o5 x6 @* B
18.2.3 Air permeability/透气性 1795 S, z+ N1 X; u- w( o
18.2.4 Porosity/孔隙率 1801 c1 M( k. g) W5 y' ]
18.2.5 Electrostatic tests/静电测试 180
9 z8 h2 j# K, Y; I; f- q; U/ c- v5 g Questions/思考题 180
& L1 }* w& x( R9 w$ TAppendix/附录 181
+ a+ {8 K4 y8 i2 q: L0 Q AATCC:AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS/美国纺织化学家与染色家协会 181
" o3 c b% A1 o ASTM:AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR TESTING AND MATERIALS/美国材料试验学会 184
" _( o& J- q y6 ]9 dVocabulary/词汇表 1898 v3 f$ J- r/ B) \( a8 ]9 E
References/参考文献 197/ v. c1 w% q5 d2 N4 d
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