
纺织材料学(双语教材),刘妍,熊磊,PDF。普通高等教育“十一五”国家级规划教材(本科),纺织工程专业双语教材,电子目录,14M。
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# i8 _0 }0 }$ Z4 u内容提要 W5 I0 N0 { o# }+ }0 }+ i
本书讨论了纤维、纱线与织物(包括机织物、针织物及非织造布)的结构、机械性能、物理性能及使用性能。涉及的纤维势括天然纤维(如棉、毛、麻、丝等)、传统化学纤维及新型化学纤维。本书同时介绍了纤维、纱线和织物的各种标准测试方法(包括国际上常用的ASTM, AATCC及GB等方法),并讨论了与各种测试方法有关的测试原理及对测试结果的影响因素。
: ]2 D) n# i+ J本书可供高等纺织院校纺织、服装相关专业的本科生及研究生作为《纺织材料学》的双语教材或专业英语教材,也可供其他专业师生、纺织贸易专业人员和科研及生产单位的技术人员参考。
& k. W) l, x. a目录- v6 @2 _2 z' m% g# B: X
Part Ⅰ An Introduction to Textiles/纺织入门 18" z: K" s$ r y1 l0 I0 Q
Chapter 1 Introduction/介绍 18/ ~( W4 v9 I- g/ j) y7 r2 |
1.1 ASTM Standard Terminology Relating to Textiles/ASTM纺织标准术语 18! F" K/ k4 f- h: _& O8 ]
1.2 Fiber history/纤维历史 26; G; k5 F& @: G6 x% V* n
1.2.1 Natural fibers/天然纤维 26
+ p0 z( a m) M$ W2 r- w 1.2.2 Man-made fibers/化学纤维 27
3 u4 j4 S. Z2 J! u# { Questions/思考题 30) o7 P) n8 K( n& t5 C
Part Ⅱ Textile Fibers/纺织纤维 32" w! @) i4 U \
Chapter 2 Natural Cellulosic Fibers/天然纤维素纤维 32% k/ M9 I: D$ E
2.1 Cotton/棉 337 H# l& e \) D% q$ S& T' l! i
2.1.1 Nature of cotton/棉花的种类 33
. k" d1 F4 W! C; j7 ^ 2.1.2 Classification/分类 34
8 a8 {4 g' p/ v" L [; B 2.1.3 Growth and structure of cotton/棉纤维的生长与结构 34
9 ?# Z( h: u @ m/ H 2.1.4 Maturity/成熟度 36, K: D: b9 n% C$ h) |* N3 e3 F
2.1.5 Cotton properties/棉纤维的性能 38
, _, i( Z8 W2 k% j' e5 s1 U 2.1.6 Cotton classification/棉花分级 39
0 ^! X' h# r+ ~. q! r" w. j/ H 2.2 Bast fibers/韧皮纤维 40$ R) X9 I9 `) p, H$ r
2.2.1 Flax (linen)/亚麻,亚麻织物 41
8 [/ L5 i+ I6 r5 h* f: R6 G* d 2.2.2 Ramie/苎麻 43
! ~# H- T! O H' ^, L: M8 o 2.2.3 Hemp/汉麻 44+ J$ ^# a* N- L8 K5 J$ p
2.2.4 Jute/黄麻 44
0 S; s' A) C5 m) p Questions/思考题 45
& I. ^' W3 v z. d+ y& I4 e Chapter 3 Natural Protein Fibers/天然蛋白质纤维 463 {: c2 j# O }; S- `
3.1 Wool/绵羊毛 467 B' H+ A- B8 O; {8 E( B
3.1.1 Wool production and history/羊毛生产和历史 469 I- g$ F# _: r$ s0 I- [2 {
3.1.2 Wool grading/羊毛分级 47" Q; S$ j; n; h; e# o% w) G
3.1.3 Wool structure/羊毛结构 479 p6 J1 ^ n' Z" [+ C7 h$ p, J
3.1.4 Wool properties/羊毛性能 48
8 r( Q% A/ {$ I3 d" g 3.2 Specialty animal fibers/特种动物毛 51( U# M' | Z. X7 f
3.3 Silk/丝 529 R! I! v1 _! W- q5 t
Questions/思考题 54" r. }6 L3 J9 B$ ^0 } ^) U
Chapter 4 Man-made Fibers/化学纤维 556 f- x- _' C* h! u0 w0 S" L
4.1 Manufacturing processing of fiber/纤维生产工艺 555 Q( O* k# X1 }3 d. h
4.1.1 Wet spinning/湿法纺丝 56# C2 M. v* q u% y# b
4.1.2 Dry spinning/干法纺丝 56. J1 z9 S! e5 Q i: g
4.1.3 Melt spinning/熔体法纺丝 56
5 J8 f0 @3 U! S7 A& E 4.1.4 Gel spinning/凝胶纺丝 575 H5 k3 c: [: ` p/ h. R
4.2 Regenerated fibers/再生纤维 57
1 y$ h; p* z0 u' b: ^ 4.2.1 Acetate/醋酯纤维 57
/ t6 [0 O8 _ k- P: f+ h 4.2.2 Triacetate/三醋酯纤维 59
% ^; Z- t1 \3 i* V# p 4.2.3 Viscose fibers/粘胶纤维 59
' ?3 p1 n8 l( s' R" Q' F/ u6 S& g 4.3 Synthetic fibers/合成纤维 602 I- p# w& r0 _9 d. v
4.3.1 Acrylic/腈纶 60+ u2 y/ {$ N# \1 N- ]' Z! R
4.3.2 Modacrylic/改性腈纶 61% h0 x! B2 k% B, x
4.3.3 Nylon/锦纶 61! X9 A6 M, t. i* R9 [
4.3.4 Polyester/涤纶 62& P B3 w. Z. v+ t0 c
4.3.5 PBI/聚苯并咪唑纤维 63& l2 D2 _2 l9 r* k
4.3.6 Vinal/聚乙烯醇纤维 63
9 C- Q3 J; C. M- P/ }1 A 4.3.7 Olefin/聚烯烃纤维 63
. W4 Y1 P E; P& J/ V; C 4.3.8 Aramid/芳纶 642 B& R" G. [0 Y2 r4 k* k
4.3.9 Lycra/莱卡 64: T8 C& M+ k( l4 S6 J+ k
4.4 Other man-made fibers/其他化学纤维 66
9 A5 J' }& q. i2 V6 L* z 4.4.1 Glass/玻璃纤维 66
3 I' q! @, G" W% \* s1 ]+ w. h 4.4.2 Metallic/金属纤维 67- f3 a5 C' I4 E, s3 I2 i; R
Questions/思考题 67
( u2 G+ o* U* B3 m' p Chapter 5 New Fibers/新型纤维 68
* q4 ^, ~/ \; W p 5.1 Carbon fibers/碳纤维 68
* |+ a& w; L, f5 t8 V6 V9 u" E 5.2 Fluorocarbon/氟碳纤维 68
/ T \! f% b6 b6 D: Q" R 5.3 Lyocell fibers(Tencel)/莱塞尔纤维 685 m0 E# s2 f6 V( _ _
5.4 High-wet-modulus fibers/高湿模量纤维 69$ L% D5 t" ~) H* a* X3 z- g- q
5.4.1 Modal fibers/莫代尔纤维 69
/ L% t f2 E7 {5 j 5.4.2 Richcel/丽赛纤维 70# p) V4 j# `5 h
5.5 Soybean protein composite fibers/大豆蛋白复合纤维 70
/ q! H7 a2 D" g8 z. L 5.6 PLA fiber/聚左旋乳酸纤维 71% o, {5 T# }! Y( T# R1 D4 ?5 P/ g
5.7 Heterogenous fibers/复合纤维 71
; @$ Y* q" h' L/ X/ T 5.7.1 Bicomponent or multicomponent/双组分或多组分 72
% h- [$ A5 _- S' u; ?" y% W 5.7.2 Biconstituent or multiconstituent/双成分或多成分 73
# V+ j3 S8 j' o7 ~$ l7 K 5.7.3 Matrix or matrix-fibril/基质型纤维 73
! n0 p# i8 n& P$ Q9 ^$ V 5.8 Differential fibers/差别化纤维 74
4 \& S% Q' Z1 p# \" Y4 \- e 5.9 Functional fibers/功能性纤维 74- P; h9 K, R7 W2 \" J# `: T! \
5.10 High performance fibers/高性能纤维 74
# Y8 X( S, J* q; ]( E Questions/思考题 74
. N% e: B4 _. V Chapter 6 The Property of Absorbing Moisture/吸湿性 75+ i: c* Z2 ~2 L. J7 ?/ Q
6.1 Orientation and crystallization/取向与结晶 75
- a# b/ s+ z! c5 Q+ o7 Z 6.2 Moisture sorption/吸湿性 75+ X# v, m. g5 C: C9 ~: |
6.2.1 Regain and moisture content/回潮率与含水率 75
! E* o. D" ?( F/ h: V$ J6 B 6.2.2 Relation between regain and relative humidity/回潮率与相对湿度的关系 75
1 x4 i8 C& r7 ?( l0 w 6.2.3 Comparison of various materials/不同材料吸湿性的对比 76$ A3 Q+ `: N a2 Q0 d" r
6.2.4 Theories of moisture sorption/吸湿理论 78/ F' k% z ^- D' u8 g: E
Questions/思考题 80
$ R( U" _$ }* T! Z# n2 H Chapter 7 Other Physical Properties of Textile Fibers/纤维的其他物理性能 81, j7 c1 i @" V6 h/ g& a
7.1 Electronic properties/电学性能 81
; B, Q0 c& R; e! U% }5 j 7.1.1 Definitions/定义 81& V2 N1 P4 _; y. j# t' I
7.2 Optical properties/光学性能 82
) t2 m! f# R& P- l, n 7.3 Thermal properties/热学性能 83
- M L; ]+ I3 _ X$ ]/ } 7.3.1 Thermal parameters/热力学参数 83" }+ b. Z2 a5 S6 B# _
7.3.2 A comparison of temperature effects/温度效应比较 838 v( K) O n& F3 \5 C2 ?1 E2 T
Questions/思考题 83
& p1 s9 b1 `: t! p# YPart Ⅲ Textile Yarns/纺织纱线 84
% V9 }6 s. S; b/ x- ]- |: n9 n3 P Chapter 8 Yarn Processing and Construction/纱线制造与结构 84
! R- S) f7 {, Y/ N& D, {8 R 8.1 Spun yarns/短纤纱 85* x( k* c1 u8 m+ W. [3 F/ X$ E. x% ?( M, W
8.2 Filament yarns/长丝纱 85, ?0 n! f) ^, d+ ~( g& f
8.3 Methods of yarn processing/纺纱方法 855 ^3 i8 Z) P+ H
8.3.1 Ring-spinning/环锭纺 86
: r1 y% E2 _! i0 a7 ` 8.3.2 New methods of yarn processing/新型纺纱方法 86. g! i( z) E7 D* z% l& Q4 S# O
8.4 Single and ply yarns/单纱和股线 897 x- w, d% ~+ X9 W. X7 l+ L! j4 |
8.5 Special types of yarn/特种纱线 90' M. @" C6 U8 g& g" _8 T; `
8.5.1 Fancy yarns/花式纱 90' T1 s, F& B& a% h5 H- ^
8.5.2 Stretch yarns/弹力纱 912 u) W9 Q. h" ]" q# G* i' m% A: b, J
8.5.3 Textured yarns 变形纱线 912 {6 c( b3 F& k( E, f
8.6 Blends and mixtures yarns/纱线混纺与混用 92
5 g$ e: e. U& W4 |, q: w Questions/思考题 93
/ U. A0 ~. X2 k) o8 y Chapter 9 Yarn Properties/纱线性能 94% g" z. [# F; P$ \
9.1 Yarn number/纱线细度 94! [7 u. p/ R, g3 v
9.1.1 Denier system/旦数 94
( ?8 v4 n b; r# G# |' h3 T 9.1.2 Yarn count system/纱线英制支数 94) h& W, j/ J9 |& i5 p
9.1.3 Tex system/线密度 95
3 h, p8 z& y& P7 y W0 g1 _1 f 9.1.4 Metric numbering system/公制支数 95* x0 Q: l# p1 w' y! K. `* N S( h+ y
9.1.5 Conversion in different systems/不同系统之间的换算 95
7 Q- k) i( C8 `( t0 c 9.2 Ply yarn counts and singles equivalent/股线支数与单纱支数 955 }$ X$ D: T" h; K: ]5 {# ?8 E
9.3 Yarn twist/纱线捻度 96
6 F# j( `; {6 H& q5 G 9.4 Yarn hairiness/纱线毛羽 97
' Y; ]1 K, F1 v 9.4.1 Hairiness test method/毛羽测试方法 98
3 l N1 z! F5 Y) h 9.4.2 Factors affecting hairiness/影响毛羽的因素 98- `& @2 e! ~; S* ^) q9 c0 [2 i: F
9.5 Yarn unevenness/纱线不匀 99
/ n; W2 I: `# L4 ^+ H% c 9.5.1 Test of yarn unevenness/纱线不匀的测试 99: G5 |' j* M9 a; J& i0 p ?
9.5.2 Reasons for yarn unevenness/纱线不匀的原因 100
$ f I- C8 c# Y1 ]9 j2 O 9.6 Classification of yarn quality/纱线质量分析 100
9 x% y0 @! N$ L, ^, } Questions/思考题 100
6 `, y# X8 [0 K9 lPart Ⅳ Textile Fabrics/织物 1024 K) n: k+ ? E4 e0 O8 \
Chapter 10 Woven Fabrics/机织物 102
3 z2 r z# T+ B8 W3 o 10.1 Making woven fabrics/织制机织物 102
% J$ ]- ^6 t+ T8 l4 s8 F( [7 o 10.1.1 The loom/织机 1022 e. B: J' q" Q
10.1.2 Loom type/织机类型 104
w- V/ s; X% U, m) o/ m0 N* J 10.1.3 Loom motions/织机运动 104
' _5 m' y9 k" k h 10.1.4 Electronics in weaving/电子技术在织机中的应用 105) I6 [: Q& ]7 }' r9 d# y
10.1.5 The selvage/布边 105 D* h; ~3 \1 b6 T3 C' z
10.2 Warp yarns and filling yarns/经纱和纬纱 105
$ o9 S) ]" b1 T* y1 e! c 10.2.1 Identification/鉴别 106
& |# q0 K# @0 L# j5 I 10.3 Face and back/正面与反面 106
# I* e7 p3 g: {# M* m 10.3.1 Reasons for differenee/存在差异的原因 107
B7 i3 Z2 u8 {2 }1 Z 10.3.2 Caution/应用的要点 107
, _2 T3 A- k8 g; ^: j/ N9 d 10.4 Top and bottom/顶端和底端 107 \' w0 o7 h) W% R- `# @5 L
10.4.1 Reasons for difference/存在差异的原因 107
& x% A. t1 k6 @, g! Z4 ?# b 10.5 Weave floats/组织浮线 108
1 C1 F7 {0 f7 c 10.6 Basic weaves/基本组织 108
6 ]: B4 [0 s2 N7 |$ O) V 10.6.1 Plain weave/平纹组织 108
( [3 K, K1 o4 ]0 U& q: L { 10.6.2 Twill weave/斜纹组织 1096 W( ?/ i& f; ^4 k0 q" [# r6 ]
10.6.3 Satin weave/缎纹组织 111% _4 `, G4 _3 ]2 K
10.7 Fabric performance and characteristics/织物性能和参数 112" {# v) a- D3 x
10.7.1 Fabric width/幅宽 112
% i* N6 T- u4 G+ v 10.7.2 Fabric weight/织物重量 112
) ^. h) w/ n! S2 w- ^ Q 10.7.3 Fabric thickness/织物厚度 113
4 v2 l5 \( K9 d7 n 10.7.4 Fabric density/织物密度 113
; Z$ V* M) V( V6 M8 D7 _ 10.7.5 Fabric count/织物经纬密度 113
" P* R1 F9 q4 c( } t5 l( }0 m+ r 10.7.6 Fabric defects/织物疵点 113
+ M j. e* w* l& V Questions/思考题 113
* D) t/ r0 t8 f; `$ p; \7 _ Chapter 11 Knitted Fabrics/针织物 114
. b% m5 t* j0 i5 y8 k* z. a) L; o 11.1 Making of knitted fabric/针织物形成 114
9 J- L0 ^6 i7 h' n 11.1.1 The forming of knitted stitches/线圈的形成 114% m( g0 }1 I( W5 X
11.1.2 Types of knitted stitches/线圈的种类 116
$ i- _0 @% p2 u 11.2 Weft knits/纬编针织物 1172 U- h c. `4 q$ B
11.2.1 Jersey knit fabric/纬平针织物 117
% i; z) C8 ^# u. l# a) Y4 T 11.2.2 Rib knit fabric/罗纹针织物 118$ |* H3 _; S9 |, w+ W; f, E9 }: D
11.2.3 Purl knit fabric/双反面针织物 119
3 V; \& Z6 I1 n. Q8 ?& \0 Z) u( a! V 11.2.4 Double knits/双面针织物 120
6 v6 e/ b D" } 11.2.5 Full-fashioned knits/全成形针织物 1205 w: G8 F6 e6 O
11.3 Warp knits/经编针织物 121
7 N5 x* K; E0 e, q$ ?% d! T 11.3.1 Tricot fabrics/特里科经编针织物 121* V* U& N- T/ K/ {+ `% n* [) l# B! t
11.3.2 Raschel fabrics/拉舍尔经编针织物 122' C* E; O/ M, I2 F! W1 J* u
11.4 Performance and characteristics/性能和参数 122
9 l' I6 F% M' o" Z4 c9 R Questions/思考题 1234 s/ Q# z, z4 l* Y4 e
Chapter 12 Nonwoven Fabrics/非织造布 124
( w2 p& a: P9 b6 V1 Q 12.1 Introduction/导论 124
' a& ?- t$ P; z% v0 ~% Q* Q 12.2 Manufacturing methods/生产方法 125& E U: D) X4 n5 B/ W) N+ E, l
12.2.1 Dry laid system/干法成网 125
7 z: K- F! s5 r& t% D: c3 J 12.2.2 Wet laid system/湿法成网 125
- v$ y! n0 @) P( Y# ^; f) d: e 12.2.3 Polymer laid system/聚合物挤压法 125
5 i% K% `$ k. u7 [, J4 Z 12.3 Various nonwovens/各种非织造布 125, H# z( q0 r! j* ?) p1 w- V
12.3.1 Needle punched nonwovens/针刺法非织造布 1259 c4 E8 |! T; ~! ]1 I! F
12.3.2 Bonded web nonwovens/黏合法非织造布 126; s7 ~/ w7 t" K! A9 z" d! t
12.3.3 Spunlaced nonwovens/射流喷网法非织造布 127
# O4 o5 [7 F2 E: S' n# b 12.3.4 Spunbonded nonwovens/纺粘法非织造布 128& V( X. ?$ ]' ~
12.3.5 Melt-blown nonwovens/熔喷法非织造布 129
$ ?7 L* S# c2 m# o- i3 V; @ Questions/思考题 129
- t& K1 H* ^/ g6 L, E, a# ~5 gPart Ⅴ Textile Testing/纺织品测试 130 p# N9 T6 P- F7 j: e
Chapter 13 General Test Methods/常规测试方法 130
) N' ?: B! M( m% j- o, g 13.1 General fiber tests/纤维常规测试 130
: ^3 e5 M, R) L& w9 w# F+ N: S6 C 13.1.1 Fiber identification/纤维鉴别 130! M( J8 a) i. D5 l1 o) c
13.1.2 Fiber length/纤维长度 134
0 i7 S0 d( B" \. J! e& d, ` 13.1.3 Fiber fineness or linear density/纤维细度或线密度 135( P$ c/ ^5 _; D& T
13.1.4 Cross-sectional shape/截面形状 135. D; o v4 m8 [7 W) C; S& {
13.1.5 Crimp/卷曲 1350 v0 V$ e4 X( w( X
13.1.6 Regain/回潮率 136
( W" T. k" A( K& l 13.1.7 Mechanical properties/机械性能 136$ N) f6 T7 k/ |9 Y" g3 \. E% c
13.1.8 Chemical characteristics/化学性能 136
% D( \" ]4 d8 o9 v( \& X 13.1.9 Surface characteristics/表面性能 136; U: L3 I. O5 e. U: a
13.1.10 Density and specific gravity/密度和相对密度 137
3 X/ `* m: S* w" n 13.2 Special tests for natural fibers/天然纤维的测试 137" _; D }- N, _/ E
13.2.1 Tests for cotton/棉纤维测试 137
6 z6 ?. B" y. @5 \7 g! Z# v- @ 13.2.2 Tests for wool/毛纤维测试 139# K; }2 o2 u: |8 p/ i6 M0 s7 ]
13.3 Testing of tensile properties/拉伸性能测试 140
2 u. D) Z8 C, n" g6 Z" _2 E 13.3.1 Description of tensile proprieties/拉伸性能的描述 141/ A5 Z% |$ @+ M1 G2 x3 \+ [
13.3.2 Fiber and yarn tensile testing/纤维和纱线拉伸性能的测试 146
& a& E/ R7 u1 X9 i/ S3 p4 v3 @5 F+ j 13.3.3 Fabric tensile testing/织物拉伸性能测试方法 147
8 v7 L* n# I- s: s$ ^ Questions/思考题 149
% \" x8 h( a4 K/ P3 `2 U! Q Chapter 14 Fabric Abrasion and Pilling/织物磨损与起球 150
; V4 P& }: P5 I* Q- M 14.1 Types of abrasion/磨损的类型 150! N. Z& ~& ~) ~" n- q" w# u
14.1.1 Abrasion between fabrics/织物间的磨损 150; w; d; v" j5 `4 ^
14.1.2 Abrasion between fabric and a nontextile surface/织物与非纤维制品表面磨损 150/ C! w: v+ T ?
14.1.3 Abrasion within fabric/织物内部磨损 151+ o4 ]) B8 l# z% o4 Z) i
14.1.4 Abrasion by foreign materials within the fabric/与织物内部其他材料的磨损 151* u! E6 ^+ x9 s4 _- @; y: q
14.2 Factors affecting fabric abrasion resistance/影响耐磨性能的因素 151" q! W$ N6 Q) U
14.2.1 Fabric properties/织物性能 151/ b6 P& t x' @5 I+ ~, s2 C
14.2.2 Other factors/其他因素 153
7 F( G* `1 |% J# d$ ~ 14.3 Abrasion testing/磨损测试 154) X8 a1 u0 w7 o) H( m8 D: u) q
14.3.1 Visual comparison with an unabraded specimen/与未磨损样品视觉对比 1541 ~! ]1 t/ N/ w. G
14.3.2 Number of cycles to produce a hole/产生磨损破洞需要的摩擦圈数 1548 P( b5 l4 f8 p; R7 U7 f* j
14.3.3 Change in a physical property/物理性能的变化 154
1 A a, M9 v- w5 x) M+ L- H8 F 14.3.4 Microscopic examination/显微镜观测 155" U6 V' p* l: ~' N
14.4 Aesthetics of abrasion and wear/穿着和磨损对美感的影响 155
% h7 x u0 T9 L( ] 14.4.1 Color changes caused by abrasion/磨损引起的颜色变化 155
8 x- k% Q) O7 I4 ~; f1 `0 w 14.4.2 Pilling/起球 156
/ S. z. e; ~, ^7 ]% x: t Questions/思考题 1572 [$ ^9 Z+ `5 A
Chapter 15 Fabric Hand and Drape/织物手感与悬垂 158# x, j4 Q" @ e/ o# l/ o
15.1 Fabric hand/织物手感 158
8 H9 o" V- t- p& O' \5 i 15.2 Fabric drape/织物悬垂 159) R0 T y, j3 H b
15.3 Measurement of hand and drape/手感与悬垂的评价 161
! c# O- e1 N+ v" i* O5 C% \ ` 15.3.1 Subjective evaluation/主观评定法 161
1 X% t6 f$ ?& E 15.3.2 Quantitative measurement/定量评定法 162
+ }; F D( X3 j; x 15.3.3 Kawabata evaluation system/KES评定法 163' u, Y7 e; V/ z" ^
Questions/思考题 163 U5 J/ I' F; C7 C' [
Chapter 16 Fabric Colorfastness/织物染色牢度 1648 A0 }2 ^& ^/ I E# S* ]- M' ~% L+ o
16.1 Evaluation of color and colorfastness/颜色和染色牢度评定方法 1645 }, [% P4 s* F1 E) Q( u! c9 I8 }/ J
16.2 Colorfastness tests/染色牢度测试 164# y% o6 \0 ^& u! ~9 D
16.2.1 Colorfastness to crocking/耐摩擦色牢度 1644 i1 _1 [! K# u Y1 g4 |
16.2.2 Colorfastness to laundering and bleaching/耐洗涤和耐漂白色牢 165+ }3 U& d4 t6 S3 d& X
16.2.3 Colorfastness to drycleaning/耐干洗色牢度 166
2 d7 |1 A' D! H/ e; g 16.2.4 Colorfastness to perspiration/耐汗渍色牢度 166* k% }' o% q7 y( [7 [6 {& s2 N U
16.2.5 Colorfastness to water/耐水浸色牢度 1661 c0 D- @7 ^6 z- P1 q1 F
16.2.6 Colorfastness to light/耐光照色牢度 167+ b, x& W+ G0 a
16.2.7 Colorfastness to atmospheric contaminants/耐空气污染色牢度 168
7 K9 B' \3 I( U+ v Questions/思考题 168 y8 Z# H) j$ E
Chapter 17 Fabric Flammability/织物可燃性 169
( d# K* [& a+ j$ }& f& y% Z 17.1 Flammability standards/可燃性标准 169
" l- W) ~! f! d 17.2 Properties affecting flammability/影响可燃性的因素 169
9 D% m7 S- k* G' l0 Y4 S5 k" T 17.3 Flammability testing/可燃性测试 171
, ?7 U: T$ y6 a E/ D+ S 17.3.1 Forty-five degree angle test/45°燃烧测试法 171
) @ e3 A9 N) a, M5 S- x 17.3.2 Vertical flame tests/垂直燃烧测试法 172
/ j" P3 y+ \2 H# s 17.3.3 Carpet testing/地毯测试 172. B5 o \3 \5 K- b1 ^
17.3.4 Cigarette tests/卷烟点燃测试 172
0 A4 z' c- l z% T 17.3.5 Other standard flammability tests/其他可燃性测试 173
' I5 R) B! `6 C+ { Questions/思考题 173% v* e( I" Z' {, u; E; T
Chapter 18 Comfort of Textiles/纺织品舒适性 174. ^; Q$ H2 {) Y6 q
18.1 Physical phenomena affecting thermal comfort/影响热舒适性能的物理现象 174, S9 f- G* `5 p
18.1.1 Heat transfer/热传递 174
& L- I# G3 `: ]! E; [ 18.1.2 Moisture transfer/湿传递 175
, F3 d& ]/ ~7 m# ?, |$ o' b 18.1.3 Water resistance/抗水性 175+ ]- ~ n8 b7 B# i( g% X
18.1.4 Air transfer/透气性 176
) X: a* R6 S: b A( Q 18.1.5 Porosity and cover factor/多孔性和覆盖系数 176
" A6 l' {/ K9 p7 @1 H 18.1.6 Electrostatic propensity/静电 177! X/ F4 y, s# ?9 b. f$ x5 S9 E( N
18.2 Evaluations of textile properties related to comfort/与舒适性相关的纺织品性能评价 1774 U2 X& T' Q+ y- ~" A/ Q
18.2.1 Heat transfer/热传递 178
' u, r3 p% u+ y! P% ?0 P) k 18.2.2 Moisture properties/湿传递性能 179; J: b" b* q5 k" O
18.2.3 Air permeability/透气性 179, t8 w& o6 h$ V
18.2.4 Porosity/孔隙率 180
7 u* W# F* i' ]/ J( K3 d) r 18.2.5 Electrostatic tests/静电测试 180
3 Q0 c& q5 `, ^ Questions/思考题 180
- X3 ?! w3 ]7 P( lAppendix/附录 181% @5 S5 I$ X8 }$ u0 \
AATCC:AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS/美国纺织化学家与染色家协会 181
$ m4 a$ t" }7 E7 Q8 D% D1 h ASTM:AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR TESTING AND MATERIALS/美国材料试验学会 184 _' y+ e3 ]# u; v; l
Vocabulary/词汇表 189, W# G1 Z0 S5 J+ F7 W m, ~+ T
References/参考文献 197
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