
纺织材料学(双语教材),刘妍,熊磊,PDF。普通高等教育“十一五”国家级规划教材(本科),纺织工程专业双语教材,电子目录,14M。/ t. m8 Y# d! D* {( o
1 [9 e7 M; `4 D* @. m内容提要
9 v6 b9 `8 [: k7 d9 |: y本书讨论了纤维、纱线与织物(包括机织物、针织物及非织造布)的结构、机械性能、物理性能及使用性能。涉及的纤维势括天然纤维(如棉、毛、麻、丝等)、传统化学纤维及新型化学纤维。本书同时介绍了纤维、纱线和织物的各种标准测试方法(包括国际上常用的ASTM, AATCC及GB等方法),并讨论了与各种测试方法有关的测试原理及对测试结果的影响因素。5 d, w- \8 P& {( H( R5 J
本书可供高等纺织院校纺织、服装相关专业的本科生及研究生作为《纺织材料学》的双语教材或专业英语教材,也可供其他专业师生、纺织贸易专业人员和科研及生产单位的技术人员参考。: r8 |# @" p; [ T) ?2 w
目录/ q: L. c0 [2 g" Z9 C- V
Part Ⅰ An Introduction to Textiles/纺织入门 18
0 a9 o1 j/ c1 R' q) ? Chapter 1 Introduction/介绍 18" X9 k' j' Q, M; i0 ?, c
1.1 ASTM Standard Terminology Relating to Textiles/ASTM纺织标准术语 18 \2 [- p, T1 [ ~9 c8 h
1.2 Fiber history/纤维历史 26
* c" C( e L8 P3 A 1.2.1 Natural fibers/天然纤维 26 a1 i: \7 ?, Q7 D5 n: ]' D' u; p: p
1.2.2 Man-made fibers/化学纤维 27/ h* M) k x, f) X6 |# n
Questions/思考题 30
9 F4 f2 _6 f2 N9 H+ bPart Ⅱ Textile Fibers/纺织纤维 32
! b% Z f$ @% L Chapter 2 Natural Cellulosic Fibers/天然纤维素纤维 32& l; m$ z% _1 {5 c: n+ v, t" f9 v: E
2.1 Cotton/棉 33
1 {8 k# C) B, K0 F7 B. p) f 2.1.1 Nature of cotton/棉花的种类 33- f5 s" s9 J0 G+ m, R! m$ W9 e. M/ s
2.1.2 Classification/分类 344 F, y+ y0 k: a4 }; r8 g
2.1.3 Growth and structure of cotton/棉纤维的生长与结构 34
, U; z. a" Z, A8 x, q* L 2.1.4 Maturity/成熟度 361 x! ?% o* s( V3 Z5 N
2.1.5 Cotton properties/棉纤维的性能 38
1 X. Z) K0 S8 R4 J) a 2.1.6 Cotton classification/棉花分级 39/ [" a" Q9 Q" o1 h
2.2 Bast fibers/韧皮纤维 401 \2 Z Q k/ Q0 H, V
2.2.1 Flax (linen)/亚麻,亚麻织物 41
9 F5 P+ A1 d, a) x6 A 2.2.2 Ramie/苎麻 439 r0 c# b% H t8 N% P9 M
2.2.3 Hemp/汉麻 44
. r) A' n5 K8 j% z" V 2.2.4 Jute/黄麻 44
6 _4 H; D/ z6 a: U! n( c Questions/思考题 45
) K. J$ _6 Y8 g* M( k9 K) D Chapter 3 Natural Protein Fibers/天然蛋白质纤维 46, Y9 t8 k ^% \) G9 [4 `' J
3.1 Wool/绵羊毛 46
% @2 B3 K' E8 b0 H) O 3.1.1 Wool production and history/羊毛生产和历史 46
/ S! L/ j: `7 f; L6 a* {) m 3.1.2 Wool grading/羊毛分级 475 }7 Y* f. F x* K% \4 R9 g+ j# H
3.1.3 Wool structure/羊毛结构 47" j/ F7 G8 |* x# Q0 `
3.1.4 Wool properties/羊毛性能 487 U4 z" m& S2 \" ~0 {0 `! R
3.2 Specialty animal fibers/特种动物毛 51
& p# g' X* r# k 3.3 Silk/丝 52; C% K1 r( c" K: c
Questions/思考题 54
9 h- {, ?, [$ [$ e Chapter 4 Man-made Fibers/化学纤维 55
# G9 E, G- A }8 c7 ^ 4.1 Manufacturing processing of fiber/纤维生产工艺 55# F, |2 l- {9 E% n" A% @
4.1.1 Wet spinning/湿法纺丝 56: R% Q$ i- ]! o- t1 S5 S" E* _) T
4.1.2 Dry spinning/干法纺丝 562 K7 e) f3 x( @6 A8 E, K% A9 Z
4.1.3 Melt spinning/熔体法纺丝 569 s$ A- O z! g/ }. N- ~, A+ \4 y0 S* m$ ~
4.1.4 Gel spinning/凝胶纺丝 572 z b3 U# _1 J2 s
4.2 Regenerated fibers/再生纤维 57
, B5 t0 `& O& K( \. p8 z9 w$ \6 S 4.2.1 Acetate/醋酯纤维 57
$ i# L+ i. n. L c 4.2.2 Triacetate/三醋酯纤维 59. a. h/ r4 m/ R
4.2.3 Viscose fibers/粘胶纤维 590 C0 _: h3 r6 R" @# e- w8 V
4.3 Synthetic fibers/合成纤维 60+ ]8 H* {- b! }" S
4.3.1 Acrylic/腈纶 60 n/ ?- I6 \8 g: F
4.3.2 Modacrylic/改性腈纶 61; Q: H! `# T. J% E$ i6 B, ]
4.3.3 Nylon/锦纶 61/ h% E3 R: y0 O
4.3.4 Polyester/涤纶 62
# A$ f/ ]+ u! U- r& V 4.3.5 PBI/聚苯并咪唑纤维 63
3 d9 \/ H1 f& K, b 4.3.6 Vinal/聚乙烯醇纤维 63
. F" |% G( X4 a; B( k7 L 4.3.7 Olefin/聚烯烃纤维 63
, V# t. N" h {' z 4.3.8 Aramid/芳纶 64
# d" N9 M) ?5 o: s 4.3.9 Lycra/莱卡 64
1 a3 L7 i7 O- i' ] 4.4 Other man-made fibers/其他化学纤维 66
* G- ^ D- X* N! D4 d% g$ j/ q 4.4.1 Glass/玻璃纤维 66
7 D8 {: ^* ]- B- L; o, ^ 4.4.2 Metallic/金属纤维 67
1 s4 M: d& p2 V# B Questions/思考题 67
$ ^% Y' d% H: S% E Chapter 5 New Fibers/新型纤维 68 t" Z" t: r, y5 l" g4 R+ `% g
5.1 Carbon fibers/碳纤维 681 [/ D8 N+ y7 @( r3 X, V
5.2 Fluorocarbon/氟碳纤维 68' Q) _& n8 z9 H- w# }# O, F6 Y1 C
5.3 Lyocell fibers(Tencel)/莱塞尔纤维 68
* t9 m; Y% `, N; t 5.4 High-wet-modulus fibers/高湿模量纤维 69
! M+ O. {( y6 X; v$ n* x 5.4.1 Modal fibers/莫代尔纤维 69
; `+ ?+ [. V- I9 A+ { 5.4.2 Richcel/丽赛纤维 70
7 {* P/ v& f- e1 u 5.5 Soybean protein composite fibers/大豆蛋白复合纤维 70
$ B5 E7 ]' Q' M' H% _ 5.6 PLA fiber/聚左旋乳酸纤维 71: |1 ^6 P5 p, \* c: N& X, W! p
5.7 Heterogenous fibers/复合纤维 71, u, k/ ]( q0 ?- y7 Q0 ~
5.7.1 Bicomponent or multicomponent/双组分或多组分 726 d* `" O. |0 Y$ {& \: P9 |, V
5.7.2 Biconstituent or multiconstituent/双成分或多成分 73" X5 P J/ W \
5.7.3 Matrix or matrix-fibril/基质型纤维 736 Z* j6 P$ b( ^# h7 \1 x: X
5.8 Differential fibers/差别化纤维 74
3 `( o/ q Y# l! I, R9 ?" } 5.9 Functional fibers/功能性纤维 74
( w" M5 E9 H9 I' f( L) T 5.10 High performance fibers/高性能纤维 74) E; c f2 G- a. d$ e
Questions/思考题 740 ]0 c& P4 V3 s
Chapter 6 The Property of Absorbing Moisture/吸湿性 75
& ~( }. r% a3 s/ H( ]+ U 6.1 Orientation and crystallization/取向与结晶 75' G- \* `$ G# C+ N/ s
6.2 Moisture sorption/吸湿性 75& W1 R2 n1 @/ K
6.2.1 Regain and moisture content/回潮率与含水率 75
) F7 A" @6 N' o8 K( S 6.2.2 Relation between regain and relative humidity/回潮率与相对湿度的关系 75' T& u# Z6 a: ^. m$ P7 L' A& m
6.2.3 Comparison of various materials/不同材料吸湿性的对比 76
5 {# _& ^: F& r 6.2.4 Theories of moisture sorption/吸湿理论 78
5 n$ n5 J9 t( O4 n: _( F Questions/思考题 80* A2 q5 {/ J0 u6 F
Chapter 7 Other Physical Properties of Textile Fibers/纤维的其他物理性能 81
2 h% X* t8 o4 G4 i 7.1 Electronic properties/电学性能 810 K( l( g; I6 u1 P- A" k
7.1.1 Definitions/定义 819 n" |( k1 ?0 ~, p0 a* m! e
7.2 Optical properties/光学性能 828 g* X: D: j; G, @: Y, {5 a" s
7.3 Thermal properties/热学性能 83
" ? \# ?0 T4 y3 M 7.3.1 Thermal parameters/热力学参数 83
, L$ `/ w( q% w# k3 l5 P }% h 7.3.2 A comparison of temperature effects/温度效应比较 83/ _. d! J+ A' ]! x3 f {6 L
Questions/思考题 836 J- f5 g9 q, J& c
Part Ⅲ Textile Yarns/纺织纱线 84) N7 I6 r6 @ j/ J
Chapter 8 Yarn Processing and Construction/纱线制造与结构 847 E) I: O2 s( d# J* v4 o7 ~
8.1 Spun yarns/短纤纱 85& |$ u# v3 r# h9 N
8.2 Filament yarns/长丝纱 85
6 ~5 {6 W! q$ q' Y( { 8.3 Methods of yarn processing/纺纱方法 85* T- u- S( h2 Y7 i/ j8 e
8.3.1 Ring-spinning/环锭纺 865 k5 X3 h! Q4 N; i% w& G
8.3.2 New methods of yarn processing/新型纺纱方法 867 q7 d* Y/ d1 x, [$ R4 @4 ~8 T
8.4 Single and ply yarns/单纱和股线 89& U2 U% E T+ h& r( F( Z
8.5 Special types of yarn/特种纱线 90! O6 @; D5 A; X% X" @
8.5.1 Fancy yarns/花式纱 90
+ n, N1 E# p5 ^9 S 8.5.2 Stretch yarns/弹力纱 91
! D1 g# W2 X& _* O' O7 p& b) t* l6 h; ~% I 8.5.3 Textured yarns 变形纱线 91
" m. g( R7 R: O4 h7 b* { 8.6 Blends and mixtures yarns/纱线混纺与混用 92( `. x0 e$ ?7 ?. f- D! k8 h
Questions/思考题 93
$ E# y/ O; Z2 U; ?3 E# I Chapter 9 Yarn Properties/纱线性能 94) U4 b& N) }; e- z
9.1 Yarn number/纱线细度 94
" S) s, b9 ]* o% h0 R 9.1.1 Denier system/旦数 94. W4 Q1 `3 B0 ~ c
9.1.2 Yarn count system/纱线英制支数 94
" i( Z* d3 a: {/ `2 [) _1 T( o7 l 9.1.3 Tex system/线密度 95
* @$ K' a% ] @7 J$ R+ G 9.1.4 Metric numbering system/公制支数 95
9 b$ K8 R. P. \% P$ s- w: D( o 9.1.5 Conversion in different systems/不同系统之间的换算 95
5 n0 R7 u6 S: j5 | 9.2 Ply yarn counts and singles equivalent/股线支数与单纱支数 95
/ F2 x2 S8 W/ N9 }" |2 \ 9.3 Yarn twist/纱线捻度 96, r' } B+ E N! J
9.4 Yarn hairiness/纱线毛羽 97. b2 T1 F) k `. m7 t! X, k J# }
9.4.1 Hairiness test method/毛羽测试方法 98, n3 m1 m% @! g. p
9.4.2 Factors affecting hairiness/影响毛羽的因素 98
7 r* n$ r; U0 l; P. y 9.5 Yarn unevenness/纱线不匀 99* W4 o- M. ]0 R" @: M2 [* \. H
9.5.1 Test of yarn unevenness/纱线不匀的测试 99
- l6 ~6 ]. B, D7 O$ `: B 9.5.2 Reasons for yarn unevenness/纱线不匀的原因 100$ [4 N+ W+ q! V1 b7 z
9.6 Classification of yarn quality/纱线质量分析 100
) V4 B5 J- @- |4 c2 n- l- n Questions/思考题 100& k+ Y; C" f* y$ R. y* t2 Y
Part Ⅳ Textile Fabrics/织物 102$ `- Y6 @( q: G6 f4 `* Y
Chapter 10 Woven Fabrics/机织物 102
. }6 I4 A7 j- W7 C 10.1 Making woven fabrics/织制机织物 102' O1 ?0 y {( \
10.1.1 The loom/织机 102- `. e$ O( i* Y0 c9 V
10.1.2 Loom type/织机类型 104 ~/ p& A/ Z+ `. ]+ a$ R% b/ g
10.1.3 Loom motions/织机运动 104
9 L2 \. Z+ c# `- I- I$ i# [0 _ 10.1.4 Electronics in weaving/电子技术在织机中的应用 1055 `* S& C3 W- w5 r m9 Y L
10.1.5 The selvage/布边 1053 \, ~; Q8 X+ t. Y
10.2 Warp yarns and filling yarns/经纱和纬纱 105
, K/ L: Z$ s$ h; Y a$ v# M 10.2.1 Identification/鉴别 1062 e4 u& }4 R6 p9 Z/ x: \# O
10.3 Face and back/正面与反面 106
+ n& y7 L( A2 s& ~0 O& V 10.3.1 Reasons for differenee/存在差异的原因 107
/ N% U: O6 Z* o. [% f3 w9 d 10.3.2 Caution/应用的要点 107
8 C' ^3 c* n8 k! i: Z6 i, Q4 ^7 X 10.4 Top and bottom/顶端和底端 107
6 \, g7 g0 c9 s) g, ] f 10.4.1 Reasons for difference/存在差异的原因 107: L1 g( L* H8 B" q
10.5 Weave floats/组织浮线 108' D3 i8 d2 V; z& d* M# E
10.6 Basic weaves/基本组织 108
7 v3 m( R8 A5 ^% O8 o$ K0 o 10.6.1 Plain weave/平纹组织 108
& \5 ?% m5 {* V1 R2 e, O0 ? 10.6.2 Twill weave/斜纹组织 109
/ s% j2 g0 `' o8 J/ P( y 10.6.3 Satin weave/缎纹组织 111
+ E+ L4 Q- T9 W, s. M 10.7 Fabric performance and characteristics/织物性能和参数 1129 |! \+ e3 _$ J
10.7.1 Fabric width/幅宽 1121 b, K0 u6 S) O% x/ i0 B0 T' A
10.7.2 Fabric weight/织物重量 112' V/ o8 H" B3 g, c2 E
10.7.3 Fabric thickness/织物厚度 113' }" P6 r% M. F
10.7.4 Fabric density/织物密度 1135 G* ]8 ] O* F
10.7.5 Fabric count/织物经纬密度 113- D- H* e2 _- Z
10.7.6 Fabric defects/织物疵点 1130 W, S+ {+ I, m* Y5 p* p' s4 g
Questions/思考题 113/ T& y B" i% J
Chapter 11 Knitted Fabrics/针织物 114
# w2 j$ C t7 V, Y2 ^ _, S+ u3 L 11.1 Making of knitted fabric/针织物形成 114
- t( H. M8 n7 F( h# f 11.1.1 The forming of knitted stitches/线圈的形成 114+ @/ X5 {: t" @, e1 c7 W! u
11.1.2 Types of knitted stitches/线圈的种类 116$ c) s$ W V: u4 b2 Y; Y" t0 j; `
11.2 Weft knits/纬编针织物 117
& }/ z# c6 n" k. M$ v& {6 V; O+ F 11.2.1 Jersey knit fabric/纬平针织物 117
% [# G& U+ i4 `6 G" V 11.2.2 Rib knit fabric/罗纹针织物 118' }+ v# }' i; X, n0 i% P4 |7 ?: D% _
11.2.3 Purl knit fabric/双反面针织物 1199 h' T8 l: l& i* [. O5 J
11.2.4 Double knits/双面针织物 120' |( o8 l h; Z- N0 s% Y% i
11.2.5 Full-fashioned knits/全成形针织物 120
& a1 k) _3 V# ]# g; |' W! v 11.3 Warp knits/经编针织物 121# q+ g3 n( J; Z: w ] Z; J
11.3.1 Tricot fabrics/特里科经编针织物 121
3 h7 B7 U5 S- e) F' K& K4 p 11.3.2 Raschel fabrics/拉舍尔经编针织物 122
- a8 ]3 S! N. E 11.4 Performance and characteristics/性能和参数 122
/ P9 s1 _9 V+ i Questions/思考题 123 K1 S- @, U6 |9 J' u& y, M; ?
Chapter 12 Nonwoven Fabrics/非织造布 124
j! I. s8 z% H+ D- _& s 12.1 Introduction/导论 124+ v3 s7 A* O' K" R1 P z
12.2 Manufacturing methods/生产方法 125
- M, e1 `/ [8 a/ L4 ]- @. P 12.2.1 Dry laid system/干法成网 125
/ r% j& T. x7 @! t& L 12.2.2 Wet laid system/湿法成网 125+ z4 l# g: |- K# k3 l5 K G" ~
12.2.3 Polymer laid system/聚合物挤压法 125* x( {$ t# V# A. i. r
12.3 Various nonwovens/各种非织造布 125- F- Y' Y9 i: n" A! i5 {9 Y
12.3.1 Needle punched nonwovens/针刺法非织造布 125
" J; Q) D+ h2 l" u+ A9 y) P+ A 12.3.2 Bonded web nonwovens/黏合法非织造布 126
2 S( o5 `, V9 N" M# Y1 z 12.3.3 Spunlaced nonwovens/射流喷网法非织造布 127
9 b' E* w. }% a$ c: K- ^4 O/ z 12.3.4 Spunbonded nonwovens/纺粘法非织造布 128/ \" g( Q( C! Z4 W! l
12.3.5 Melt-blown nonwovens/熔喷法非织造布 129
( X' Q7 D% M0 B4 _ Questions/思考题 129' C% [; S! K* e# g) H k3 j4 q c
Part Ⅴ Textile Testing/纺织品测试 130) K1 a; U) j3 l, Z- E9 b- N
Chapter 13 General Test Methods/常规测试方法 130
y H" t( d; @5 ` M2 ^* O4 } 13.1 General fiber tests/纤维常规测试 130
5 y) C4 H; j% g! K$ t9 y1 K 13.1.1 Fiber identification/纤维鉴别 130
; a- V1 a: @0 L 13.1.2 Fiber length/纤维长度 134 m# u* U H* f6 T) j
13.1.3 Fiber fineness or linear density/纤维细度或线密度 135
1 T! u; Z! I. }" C+ m' r 13.1.4 Cross-sectional shape/截面形状 1359 v2 {8 N, {0 c; Z$ ?* G" A! l
13.1.5 Crimp/卷曲 135
+ B, i. V- e" ~! T7 s, j! S 13.1.6 Regain/回潮率 1367 L; E. j. @. s3 u1 S
13.1.7 Mechanical properties/机械性能 136
! S% S, t1 I9 }9 P 13.1.8 Chemical characteristics/化学性能 1368 g0 R4 t/ Y" E- v" n
13.1.9 Surface characteristics/表面性能 136! v. C3 g/ F/ g
13.1.10 Density and specific gravity/密度和相对密度 137+ W: C' g4 | X6 x2 O
13.2 Special tests for natural fibers/天然纤维的测试 137
6 Q. e, [. _- O) F5 ` 13.2.1 Tests for cotton/棉纤维测试 1379 q; }# b& Z6 k( K/ J" Q
13.2.2 Tests for wool/毛纤维测试 139 ]0 N' L n/ M. c) G
13.3 Testing of tensile properties/拉伸性能测试 1404 S# b0 t9 {: T9 a4 N8 e# K. V
13.3.1 Description of tensile proprieties/拉伸性能的描述 1418 y" |6 Z: | J1 ?* ]) Z
13.3.2 Fiber and yarn tensile testing/纤维和纱线拉伸性能的测试 146
% J/ U& ~- [+ Q3 D/ [ 13.3.3 Fabric tensile testing/织物拉伸性能测试方法 147
4 @ o7 B3 R u. A3 H$ T: T U Questions/思考题 149
1 S, ~1 N5 G" q3 X9 D" K( {" Z/ k Chapter 14 Fabric Abrasion and Pilling/织物磨损与起球 1502 A O; ?& A _! _+ O# j$ k
14.1 Types of abrasion/磨损的类型 150+ z; Y9 |' x4 E4 e5 h
14.1.1 Abrasion between fabrics/织物间的磨损 1502 n) }% p( `0 @! v# M
14.1.2 Abrasion between fabric and a nontextile surface/织物与非纤维制品表面磨损 150! n+ E3 X7 u% P) h. h8 I
14.1.3 Abrasion within fabric/织物内部磨损 151
* i6 @7 \: @- K( z$ J$ k/ u, x 14.1.4 Abrasion by foreign materials within the fabric/与织物内部其他材料的磨损 151, f) e8 T1 i- Z
14.2 Factors affecting fabric abrasion resistance/影响耐磨性能的因素 151( A# t; D0 d5 q7 q
14.2.1 Fabric properties/织物性能 1516 S9 i$ D. @2 R* ?% g, ~" t: i/ y
14.2.2 Other factors/其他因素 153$ \% Q' ]- S) x
14.3 Abrasion testing/磨损测试 154
1 H9 n X0 {+ U% J) ~, S! \ 14.3.1 Visual comparison with an unabraded specimen/与未磨损样品视觉对比 154, Y9 y( ^8 _( r6 |/ F
14.3.2 Number of cycles to produce a hole/产生磨损破洞需要的摩擦圈数 154
7 k3 z9 S& \# O Z1 {* u( }: o 14.3.3 Change in a physical property/物理性能的变化 154
2 e! |8 Q0 G* g& A: o1 `' b `# L" { 14.3.4 Microscopic examination/显微镜观测 155
& d7 P2 i- ^$ f, A 14.4 Aesthetics of abrasion and wear/穿着和磨损对美感的影响 1550 B4 F3 g; L1 f! E+ k
14.4.1 Color changes caused by abrasion/磨损引起的颜色变化 155
' \) n D% _ o6 }2 q 14.4.2 Pilling/起球 156
" M2 c- t" a5 K" q Questions/思考题 157
0 K" \ F3 d6 |) u7 f8 A Chapter 15 Fabric Hand and Drape/织物手感与悬垂 158
: ^4 b9 f/ S9 M+ d: n" n6 D 15.1 Fabric hand/织物手感 158: D: H9 X6 H8 E1 ~; f) I% D6 g4 ~
15.2 Fabric drape/织物悬垂 159) \0 i J8 |$ U9 R5 c
15.3 Measurement of hand and drape/手感与悬垂的评价 161& [, H+ W3 Q Y O
15.3.1 Subjective evaluation/主观评定法 161+ u' I% J* y6 j$ S: \$ m; g
15.3.2 Quantitative measurement/定量评定法 1621 }- V2 |. F( R" T0 }9 Z
15.3.3 Kawabata evaluation system/KES评定法 163% M9 p4 V$ K2 P1 j& x7 X
Questions/思考题 163( l. W/ J5 j$ U8 l
Chapter 16 Fabric Colorfastness/织物染色牢度 164
' y& X0 {$ x! C3 W' O 16.1 Evaluation of color and colorfastness/颜色和染色牢度评定方法 1648 z6 T3 p1 m, z/ V7 ^
16.2 Colorfastness tests/染色牢度测试 164
2 w9 Z( t! x- a7 \( G1 | k 16.2.1 Colorfastness to crocking/耐摩擦色牢度 164
( |. b& Y P( i7 v" b 16.2.2 Colorfastness to laundering and bleaching/耐洗涤和耐漂白色牢 165
% F$ {: ?! y& ^' r% k 16.2.3 Colorfastness to drycleaning/耐干洗色牢度 166 ]) e) v4 D" S3 {8 Z) p
16.2.4 Colorfastness to perspiration/耐汗渍色牢度 166
& |! g# d0 S8 e A- o! p6 ^ 16.2.5 Colorfastness to water/耐水浸色牢度 166- x2 O% L% k' v9 A5 P
16.2.6 Colorfastness to light/耐光照色牢度 167
9 V- K; g6 p) O8 H6 S* Y" ~ 16.2.7 Colorfastness to atmospheric contaminants/耐空气污染色牢度 168
3 S, i/ Z$ {: g Questions/思考题 168& ^7 `/ h* d8 a! t1 _$ R
Chapter 17 Fabric Flammability/织物可燃性 169
0 }/ V* s i% B; k% u0 C J9 M 17.1 Flammability standards/可燃性标准 169
, v+ ]* t$ Y' L 17.2 Properties affecting flammability/影响可燃性的因素 169
# i1 D% u! N9 p9 y5 q; o& z# G 17.3 Flammability testing/可燃性测试 171
& e1 e5 D/ I1 l9 X( \2 i: { 17.3.1 Forty-five degree angle test/45°燃烧测试法 171
6 s# Z" W9 d& V# _ 17.3.2 Vertical flame tests/垂直燃烧测试法 1725 i4 a& }7 C8 M/ F% T4 G" n% i, p; f
17.3.3 Carpet testing/地毯测试 172
+ K" X/ j& D5 `6 }8 D! B 17.3.4 Cigarette tests/卷烟点燃测试 1723 e. |! |& ?8 d7 e2 I
17.3.5 Other standard flammability tests/其他可燃性测试 173: e# A/ o- k; r& m
Questions/思考题 173: n" {( ~9 t% ]6 |$ C* w4 w
Chapter 18 Comfort of Textiles/纺织品舒适性 174 A, _2 E, K( h1 C" \
18.1 Physical phenomena affecting thermal comfort/影响热舒适性能的物理现象 174
5 y. S4 |/ ]6 M 18.1.1 Heat transfer/热传递 174, V# T! e% I2 s; C3 a4 r7 [
18.1.2 Moisture transfer/湿传递 1750 n8 D' Y+ m. J1 l3 D& _- X9 U
18.1.3 Water resistance/抗水性 175
' B* o6 Q5 W% C! w n; z% Z5 N 18.1.4 Air transfer/透气性 1768 v* d& v& ^" V
18.1.5 Porosity and cover factor/多孔性和覆盖系数 176* S4 F! f) n5 F1 `# K0 {
18.1.6 Electrostatic propensity/静电 177
; b! Y6 B* b! J. L) G 18.2 Evaluations of textile properties related to comfort/与舒适性相关的纺织品性能评价 177
2 n/ |% j) w7 {& n. a) j2 {! |$ Z' l 18.2.1 Heat transfer/热传递 178
/ w' A& V, [4 J. T) l% l$ s! r8 B 18.2.2 Moisture properties/湿传递性能 1794 G' P( {0 M8 ]* @
18.2.3 Air permeability/透气性 179
+ ?% |/ L% A$ F 18.2.4 Porosity/孔隙率 180! A# V: b: z# v# j! v
18.2.5 Electrostatic tests/静电测试 180
5 ?9 z9 q5 Q" F. P2 J5 K$ B Questions/思考题 180
% o: L; x9 G% B7 y nAppendix/附录 181
' R2 U) j7 r! D9 x4 _ AATCC:AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS/美国纺织化学家与染色家协会 181
V" F) T; L" a: ]9 Y ASTM:AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR TESTING AND MATERIALS/美国材料试验学会 184
$ ^; L. w( E+ x# g7 x3 W6 OVocabulary/词汇表 189
2 _3 ]9 W) |1 Y8 F0 {" aReferences/参考文献 197
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