
纺织材料学(双语教材),刘妍,熊磊,PDF。普通高等教育“十一五”国家级规划教材(本科),纺织工程专业双语教材,电子目录,14M。! g3 G! q! n5 s2 D1 B5 x* N
# {* e" {6 n$ ]内容提要$ j! ~7 w; T S+ K) p
本书讨论了纤维、纱线与织物(包括机织物、针织物及非织造布)的结构、机械性能、物理性能及使用性能。涉及的纤维势括天然纤维(如棉、毛、麻、丝等)、传统化学纤维及新型化学纤维。本书同时介绍了纤维、纱线和织物的各种标准测试方法(包括国际上常用的ASTM, AATCC及GB等方法),并讨论了与各种测试方法有关的测试原理及对测试结果的影响因素。9 ~; Y% ^/ v! b- k! m
本书可供高等纺织院校纺织、服装相关专业的本科生及研究生作为《纺织材料学》的双语教材或专业英语教材,也可供其他专业师生、纺织贸易专业人员和科研及生产单位的技术人员参考。' N) C: H6 [7 F8 N5 |; P. K
目录8 a. K" H8 j2 I
Part Ⅰ An Introduction to Textiles/纺织入门 184 g+ L$ _/ O: J+ T$ ]
Chapter 1 Introduction/介绍 18
H) I" U8 i- Q. P. @/ H 1.1 ASTM Standard Terminology Relating to Textiles/ASTM纺织标准术语 18
7 P% O% ^5 M. \ 1.2 Fiber history/纤维历史 263 m/ ~ B( L3 z5 L# K" @
1.2.1 Natural fibers/天然纤维 265 L1 x, W8 |# X3 q. [
1.2.2 Man-made fibers/化学纤维 27
4 l2 `' c0 {- [0 T- j! k# R Questions/思考题 30, O4 |$ O( i3 H4 f$ F
Part Ⅱ Textile Fibers/纺织纤维 32
: P8 _( d* v# E. e0 D Chapter 2 Natural Cellulosic Fibers/天然纤维素纤维 32
* G7 q+ Q! ]# D- l1 L 2.1 Cotton/棉 33
8 j7 [8 W1 B% M* F. Z7 C 2.1.1 Nature of cotton/棉花的种类 33
. g1 z1 |8 U2 u3 R8 n3 ~ 2.1.2 Classification/分类 34: A3 f. @9 z/ _
2.1.3 Growth and structure of cotton/棉纤维的生长与结构 344 p" Y& Y3 Y0 |# Q( b7 k0 c) M5 w1 p3 }
2.1.4 Maturity/成熟度 366 y8 t8 j/ G0 I
2.1.5 Cotton properties/棉纤维的性能 383 G* o4 c% T1 m7 O. n
2.1.6 Cotton classification/棉花分级 39
0 I1 e6 M E2 Q2 _ 2.2 Bast fibers/韧皮纤维 400 D8 f$ n, N" q$ A( v U
2.2.1 Flax (linen)/亚麻,亚麻织物 41& z# m- g1 |4 p1 s
2.2.2 Ramie/苎麻 43. p" B1 ? I/ N Z+ l# P- N3 L
2.2.3 Hemp/汉麻 44& Q# m' `/ c) }" q
2.2.4 Jute/黄麻 44
4 f# X" }1 t) S6 P; P. x4 _. k Questions/思考题 45
2 V$ s" _5 w3 E, ]0 `9 H Chapter 3 Natural Protein Fibers/天然蛋白质纤维 46
. c6 S- a- A4 x8 t2 p9 r6 ] 3.1 Wool/绵羊毛 467 v" D7 i+ _7 G- C4 ?( y$ m
3.1.1 Wool production and history/羊毛生产和历史 46$ Z& i1 a/ M: o3 R ?1 e, q
3.1.2 Wool grading/羊毛分级 47) i( s |/ [" s$ t
3.1.3 Wool structure/羊毛结构 47
# j0 p# i4 w, A) g* c; T: ~ 3.1.4 Wool properties/羊毛性能 48: L# s* }# s+ y ]6 t
3.2 Specialty animal fibers/特种动物毛 51
$ i! [+ Z A* @0 ? j% X6 J 3.3 Silk/丝 52* ]* C" n: m/ ^! _; _8 K
Questions/思考题 54, s% O6 j) s: [! F9 b
Chapter 4 Man-made Fibers/化学纤维 55
. `( H, S# n, U0 s6 v& b' l 4.1 Manufacturing processing of fiber/纤维生产工艺 55/ `$ ~, b; \8 g: N j0 N
4.1.1 Wet spinning/湿法纺丝 56% W2 D6 f. w s# i0 t6 v
4.1.2 Dry spinning/干法纺丝 56
# U- G6 T; e% ?! T/ R 4.1.3 Melt spinning/熔体法纺丝 56
( Z, T6 S Z, y& m 4.1.4 Gel spinning/凝胶纺丝 57
, q" T. l# |8 R2 u+ _# u, e 4.2 Regenerated fibers/再生纤维 57( \0 |2 O1 e9 Z7 g0 x( ~% r
4.2.1 Acetate/醋酯纤维 57
3 v6 g# I0 I* ^* C% C 4.2.2 Triacetate/三醋酯纤维 59
( A" G2 j$ P7 x+ G 4.2.3 Viscose fibers/粘胶纤维 59
$ b. M$ y7 R1 Y; N! g3 f+ h7 \7 R 4.3 Synthetic fibers/合成纤维 606 K% k8 G4 t8 m R
4.3.1 Acrylic/腈纶 603 F; C5 e# w& _# O0 o: C4 g7 T; `
4.3.2 Modacrylic/改性腈纶 61% a( e, A# D4 {9 C% ]! U# s; I9 N/ {
4.3.3 Nylon/锦纶 611 X I7 `+ b; r7 d8 o) l' O j
4.3.4 Polyester/涤纶 62, w. j+ u: q2 }8 @( F
4.3.5 PBI/聚苯并咪唑纤维 63, V Q' |" M( t6 y
4.3.6 Vinal/聚乙烯醇纤维 63
' j' U7 |3 ]; p7 G 4.3.7 Olefin/聚烯烃纤维 63! ?6 a$ q( _! O! N/ ^
4.3.8 Aramid/芳纶 64
" r0 M" l6 w! o 4.3.9 Lycra/莱卡 64
; ~' Z# M- B8 `5 i6 |7 O 4.4 Other man-made fibers/其他化学纤维 66
4 B$ k0 y! Q, a* z. ?: E- N 4.4.1 Glass/玻璃纤维 66
6 L4 S" n$ c7 C; K 4.4.2 Metallic/金属纤维 67
; f0 t0 z* }5 W( y2 O" l" d* i Questions/思考题 672 x& e: `5 o& C- j
Chapter 5 New Fibers/新型纤维 68
8 w( D$ R: C1 d! {: a 5.1 Carbon fibers/碳纤维 68! D/ B6 B0 q( s; l# U1 d4 R% c/ ~
5.2 Fluorocarbon/氟碳纤维 68
4 r& u, J! v) i 5.3 Lyocell fibers(Tencel)/莱塞尔纤维 68
0 P# J6 ?3 D5 N; y1 ^* e 5.4 High-wet-modulus fibers/高湿模量纤维 69
V/ v2 F$ ]/ q3 @ 5.4.1 Modal fibers/莫代尔纤维 69! A6 Z; m2 i; f$ Q
5.4.2 Richcel/丽赛纤维 70
+ M H' [6 d: v( L- Y 5.5 Soybean protein composite fibers/大豆蛋白复合纤维 708 u3 G( {7 r, T. I4 J
5.6 PLA fiber/聚左旋乳酸纤维 71) m r- U" a/ ^8 L0 w$ q3 D* k
5.7 Heterogenous fibers/复合纤维 71
8 ^) \- c2 m% N 5.7.1 Bicomponent or multicomponent/双组分或多组分 72' J# s r2 k# i. Q6 Z* \0 H+ {
5.7.2 Biconstituent or multiconstituent/双成分或多成分 73
6 E1 w R# }! Z- a; z8 p. k3 S 5.7.3 Matrix or matrix-fibril/基质型纤维 73
4 l7 @' d8 a) V, F' C$ p 5.8 Differential fibers/差别化纤维 74
% N9 w5 ?- }: l: s8 B 5.9 Functional fibers/功能性纤维 74
' [' m2 p7 S; J2 S7 B m3 v 5.10 High performance fibers/高性能纤维 74
7 s4 P Y' r8 |8 y6 W* j, j7 H; u Questions/思考题 74; U7 i) P( y6 S
Chapter 6 The Property of Absorbing Moisture/吸湿性 75. Y: B- g& g. e% b) `; u
6.1 Orientation and crystallization/取向与结晶 754 T6 W4 b5 q* e! o% Z/ e
6.2 Moisture sorption/吸湿性 75
, e6 P0 \: q* N/ }! q) E 6.2.1 Regain and moisture content/回潮率与含水率 75
/ j6 H* x: _" n! e8 b! M 6.2.2 Relation between regain and relative humidity/回潮率与相对湿度的关系 758 \; ] k+ ? J1 F, ^, m
6.2.3 Comparison of various materials/不同材料吸湿性的对比 76: ]4 F# z% E4 K0 \# Q/ Q
6.2.4 Theories of moisture sorption/吸湿理论 78
/ Z1 }6 j( w4 } Questions/思考题 80, n8 F3 D; }! A% x9 @- ]
Chapter 7 Other Physical Properties of Textile Fibers/纤维的其他物理性能 81
+ `9 `9 b! L( L9 m3 q 7.1 Electronic properties/电学性能 81
) A6 Y+ M9 U& O. |+ h; D: I' t 7.1.1 Definitions/定义 81. k: e* E3 }# t
7.2 Optical properties/光学性能 825 |# R$ S9 C2 p
7.3 Thermal properties/热学性能 83
0 R2 F4 f! z# I; D 7.3.1 Thermal parameters/热力学参数 83- @( x, Y* p2 O
7.3.2 A comparison of temperature effects/温度效应比较 831 a1 `9 _3 c7 b7 e. I
Questions/思考题 83
' c+ R0 C+ L" v1 uPart Ⅲ Textile Yarns/纺织纱线 84) S: _* P5 f2 |; O
Chapter 8 Yarn Processing and Construction/纱线制造与结构 84' N# _4 t, I ~8 ]5 L: R
8.1 Spun yarns/短纤纱 85
* Z% x2 I! L/ @0 @0 | 8.2 Filament yarns/长丝纱 85
- n' b- ~" j( g2 `: v 8.3 Methods of yarn processing/纺纱方法 85
* a& n& f5 [0 I 8.3.1 Ring-spinning/环锭纺 86( {- B0 ~6 L3 G
8.3.2 New methods of yarn processing/新型纺纱方法 86
& U+ ?' I4 p p P$ N# j 8.4 Single and ply yarns/单纱和股线 89) z2 ?6 p% @3 d8 s: q
8.5 Special types of yarn/特种纱线 90" ~4 D" Y$ C1 e
8.5.1 Fancy yarns/花式纱 90
* F6 z7 p2 ]2 z 8.5.2 Stretch yarns/弹力纱 91
2 q; {. \5 K& y3 Q8 @" L$ X. ] 8.5.3 Textured yarns 变形纱线 913 ^, c x, V# G
8.6 Blends and mixtures yarns/纱线混纺与混用 92" X @1 r2 P( N9 K# Z6 A" e
Questions/思考题 93
R$ ^" y- d* d6 m Chapter 9 Yarn Properties/纱线性能 94$ J1 z# ^1 k! I
9.1 Yarn number/纱线细度 94
1 R% Z6 S. O3 l" t9 \% s( }4 w 9.1.1 Denier system/旦数 949 ?+ K% k- W/ m. ]$ L5 W7 t( T
9.1.2 Yarn count system/纱线英制支数 94
2 y y4 \5 e6 |* L 9.1.3 Tex system/线密度 954 x8 d- T+ c* r4 }$ A7 V+ o
9.1.4 Metric numbering system/公制支数 95
2 A' n. F' E2 @2 }7 b' K 9.1.5 Conversion in different systems/不同系统之间的换算 955 Y$ i; s5 C& ]! p
9.2 Ply yarn counts and singles equivalent/股线支数与单纱支数 959 Q1 T5 D0 B$ v4 r( L
9.3 Yarn twist/纱线捻度 96
, U2 o6 B& j. [( \ 9.4 Yarn hairiness/纱线毛羽 97
% W5 `; {2 z( {1 I, e0 A 9.4.1 Hairiness test method/毛羽测试方法 98
& `8 O1 a) W" u$ {4 i$ o j* H 9.4.2 Factors affecting hairiness/影响毛羽的因素 98. v$ d. V1 \1 e! ~, W
9.5 Yarn unevenness/纱线不匀 99
5 I4 N1 }, f2 B2 Y 9.5.1 Test of yarn unevenness/纱线不匀的测试 99
8 E0 P% C1 e, v, ] 9.5.2 Reasons for yarn unevenness/纱线不匀的原因 100
( u$ I" K: [! L8 c6 Q5 } 9.6 Classification of yarn quality/纱线质量分析 100) ]# I5 A* L# S0 n7 h3 Y
Questions/思考题 100
$ M0 T6 A& |6 P! e, dPart Ⅳ Textile Fabrics/织物 102
3 {" ^" T3 D* z Chapter 10 Woven Fabrics/机织物 102; |- [/ Y. o; h/ Y0 _* n6 K
10.1 Making woven fabrics/织制机织物 102
) F1 Y% l, I! } 10.1.1 The loom/织机 102# Q I4 w& X: L# N4 K M/ e, |5 `
10.1.2 Loom type/织机类型 104
, W8 O0 _) A) Z ~# E 10.1.3 Loom motions/织机运动 1046 E+ l" q9 `2 `! ]) X+ y
10.1.4 Electronics in weaving/电子技术在织机中的应用 105
( D5 r, B% `7 Z! ~ 10.1.5 The selvage/布边 105
( D: y# _, |5 c4 V, S 10.2 Warp yarns and filling yarns/经纱和纬纱 105
8 ~! u* l9 u7 w 10.2.1 Identification/鉴别 106
3 N- G" D2 `# p% b6 t, j+ S, u 10.3 Face and back/正面与反面 106+ a% K, @/ N8 N
10.3.1 Reasons for differenee/存在差异的原因 1073 l4 Z8 @! |! _, m0 \# x
10.3.2 Caution/应用的要点 107
+ O$ T/ q+ m( V 10.4 Top and bottom/顶端和底端 107
" z5 |; ~/ [, q. S; ?9 G 10.4.1 Reasons for difference/存在差异的原因 107* m5 d4 B2 b7 z
10.5 Weave floats/组织浮线 1088 X. H/ I1 Z6 K, x3 h; A
10.6 Basic weaves/基本组织 108
& _, o% _/ w0 z* d K 10.6.1 Plain weave/平纹组织 108
+ R! o) y1 x) S3 [ 10.6.2 Twill weave/斜纹组织 109
$ P: H0 d' ~2 o S 10.6.3 Satin weave/缎纹组织 1119 i- U) ~) c, M% k
10.7 Fabric performance and characteristics/织物性能和参数 112# q! A6 p3 C7 q/ m" B$ v0 H' t8 U6 a
10.7.1 Fabric width/幅宽 112" D0 {, t. E* h* Y8 G; k5 d k7 f
10.7.2 Fabric weight/织物重量 112 G. U7 ~: h$ E, H7 z! l
10.7.3 Fabric thickness/织物厚度 113& }7 _& |# l: G9 Q4 D& _
10.7.4 Fabric density/织物密度 113
; q1 v: U2 `+ I- y3 J5 ] 10.7.5 Fabric count/织物经纬密度 1131 G( T' _5 S! _* m+ t V
10.7.6 Fabric defects/织物疵点 113' {& d4 Q& d* r; \3 ]
Questions/思考题 1131 p4 T+ |1 }' u. T0 F
Chapter 11 Knitted Fabrics/针织物 114. p- m; v6 E* U" ~$ ^
11.1 Making of knitted fabric/针织物形成 114
3 v* P% q- _0 P6 H0 a 11.1.1 The forming of knitted stitches/线圈的形成 114
4 H8 I" F, `8 Y3 s5 F 11.1.2 Types of knitted stitches/线圈的种类 116+ ^" }8 z, ]7 p9 d
11.2 Weft knits/纬编针织物 117+ e: ]7 z/ Z- Y+ @$ }& r
11.2.1 Jersey knit fabric/纬平针织物 117
, q. _4 [3 }+ j% P; b: g- D, d- D 11.2.2 Rib knit fabric/罗纹针织物 118" H2 l5 r7 f" t6 g
11.2.3 Purl knit fabric/双反面针织物 119
, W' A$ k! s& u5 r 11.2.4 Double knits/双面针织物 120
2 l7 \5 e6 a6 @9 A( K 11.2.5 Full-fashioned knits/全成形针织物 120
0 m( d. \2 b+ p2 C" v6 O 11.3 Warp knits/经编针织物 121. @! v! i( {. r, x& ]0 I! M4 U
11.3.1 Tricot fabrics/特里科经编针织物 121
) S$ c1 D, M$ J, q, |) i: A+ F7 { 11.3.2 Raschel fabrics/拉舍尔经编针织物 122
5 H o5 T& I$ {4 D% r 11.4 Performance and characteristics/性能和参数 122. Z* E S; ^& J! O6 w/ u+ q
Questions/思考题 123( d" q/ ^7 B) p0 Y6 F( C* w. g
Chapter 12 Nonwoven Fabrics/非织造布 124/ [9 m' t9 T0 N2 |: A( R
12.1 Introduction/导论 124
0 T2 a; O% p- J4 J' E m9 y 12.2 Manufacturing methods/生产方法 125
/ \+ i9 L! G3 i- o3 c 12.2.1 Dry laid system/干法成网 125( i0 l4 ~& x/ h# ^& ^& v
12.2.2 Wet laid system/湿法成网 1254 P, ^3 C/ k/ x
12.2.3 Polymer laid system/聚合物挤压法 1252 f! l0 p0 U: u7 {0 q, {. ?5 H" m( ?
12.3 Various nonwovens/各种非织造布 125
) |) L+ _: O; ~/ c j) P! \, p 12.3.1 Needle punched nonwovens/针刺法非织造布 125
1 N* _$ |4 [2 u5 P0 |1 U 12.3.2 Bonded web nonwovens/黏合法非织造布 126+ P R+ B L2 y
12.3.3 Spunlaced nonwovens/射流喷网法非织造布 127" F% [) S }( p" W# z, O. X
12.3.4 Spunbonded nonwovens/纺粘法非织造布 128
- t. t/ k$ n2 h& H0 D$ r6 i, Y 12.3.5 Melt-blown nonwovens/熔喷法非织造布 1291 {3 f) B* O- p5 A& l
Questions/思考题 129
- Q3 k: t- ]2 N: q9 N- gPart Ⅴ Textile Testing/纺织品测试 130
% z! W+ w6 Z! S. v Chapter 13 General Test Methods/常规测试方法 130
' s# K" [5 o# k( t1 ~5 I 13.1 General fiber tests/纤维常规测试 130 R' { S" d: h$ |$ t
13.1.1 Fiber identification/纤维鉴别 130
- @, [3 _" u; K' I 13.1.2 Fiber length/纤维长度 1341 h. L& O2 u+ n$ \' K
13.1.3 Fiber fineness or linear density/纤维细度或线密度 135
% u# @1 ~- \) t2 g5 p 13.1.4 Cross-sectional shape/截面形状 135
) p p) V U# ?2 h 13.1.5 Crimp/卷曲 135
; v* `" {, O3 I: \ 13.1.6 Regain/回潮率 136% F4 w2 U1 v, Y$ Z) @8 ^
13.1.7 Mechanical properties/机械性能 1365 C3 u& D) L& x
13.1.8 Chemical characteristics/化学性能 136
# g7 @5 ?+ P- d 13.1.9 Surface characteristics/表面性能 136& I4 _# S0 X0 d( l- _( d8 {
13.1.10 Density and specific gravity/密度和相对密度 137
4 ^4 h! T9 y0 i, @ 13.2 Special tests for natural fibers/天然纤维的测试 137
% F( y- j4 b; Z, V5 F6 c) ^ 13.2.1 Tests for cotton/棉纤维测试 137" ]. q1 r4 a9 _" G9 k5 h
13.2.2 Tests for wool/毛纤维测试 139
6 n( a* f$ _1 G l7 A% o 13.3 Testing of tensile properties/拉伸性能测试 1401 x9 I3 \8 B+ a# Y+ q
13.3.1 Description of tensile proprieties/拉伸性能的描述 141
2 {3 t0 H, ]8 c" r A 13.3.2 Fiber and yarn tensile testing/纤维和纱线拉伸性能的测试 146
/ C2 R. c5 r7 e) s6 x2 h* }$ t 13.3.3 Fabric tensile testing/织物拉伸性能测试方法 147% c7 s" _- E0 ]9 N1 o1 O
Questions/思考题 149# r8 w- q" ~: p$ ?( I- Q
Chapter 14 Fabric Abrasion and Pilling/织物磨损与起球 150
( e. v v c! }% p* @ 14.1 Types of abrasion/磨损的类型 150) H- y' M! n& p$ i1 v
14.1.1 Abrasion between fabrics/织物间的磨损 1502 z" {: ~* F, V4 Z
14.1.2 Abrasion between fabric and a nontextile surface/织物与非纤维制品表面磨损 150
. r% f/ Y$ u; E5 A* ^/ i 14.1.3 Abrasion within fabric/织物内部磨损 1513 E" I" E% O# h; }
14.1.4 Abrasion by foreign materials within the fabric/与织物内部其他材料的磨损 151
! }/ c: j- G% U0 { 14.2 Factors affecting fabric abrasion resistance/影响耐磨性能的因素 151. x1 q: s/ Q! k, c# _2 h5 t
14.2.1 Fabric properties/织物性能 1517 z& T2 u o# ?. e ?# [& T
14.2.2 Other factors/其他因素 153
$ ]+ ?3 i! n$ o; X 14.3 Abrasion testing/磨损测试 154" i* |& o2 p& @) G
14.3.1 Visual comparison with an unabraded specimen/与未磨损样品视觉对比 154
3 E4 T+ [ X9 ^0 N/ x, \! V% O 14.3.2 Number of cycles to produce a hole/产生磨损破洞需要的摩擦圈数 154 b% e% i% g+ _7 h7 ]
14.3.3 Change in a physical property/物理性能的变化 154
9 r8 j2 [3 z. I& S# a' G 14.3.4 Microscopic examination/显微镜观测 155: k) Z9 b$ ]0 q! ^: `
14.4 Aesthetics of abrasion and wear/穿着和磨损对美感的影响 155
$ R1 R3 t4 K6 E 14.4.1 Color changes caused by abrasion/磨损引起的颜色变化 155
w/ Z. S$ ~! u% f' P" o/ F- d7 B# ~ 14.4.2 Pilling/起球 156
9 C: f5 S3 |9 g9 {4 @ Questions/思考题 157
6 \3 s! w2 H+ A+ h' W Chapter 15 Fabric Hand and Drape/织物手感与悬垂 158
8 \# [- s7 f( [; a! L 15.1 Fabric hand/织物手感 1583 o' Z+ ?1 R/ u
15.2 Fabric drape/织物悬垂 1593 ~: f8 U. @0 v; ]
15.3 Measurement of hand and drape/手感与悬垂的评价 161
8 b% c! a, g5 g3 q: \: x! Y( ~& p 15.3.1 Subjective evaluation/主观评定法 161
6 J, c- c6 y9 f* I 15.3.2 Quantitative measurement/定量评定法 162# a2 n9 p, R8 b3 a4 e# }
15.3.3 Kawabata evaluation system/KES评定法 163
# w$ F8 m, X/ E: o; e1 ?8 c+ [ Questions/思考题 163: c! W4 V, h( G0 S- c$ w! L
Chapter 16 Fabric Colorfastness/织物染色牢度 164( o! s0 Y" K, @& f% v
16.1 Evaluation of color and colorfastness/颜色和染色牢度评定方法 164; _- E @! Q; X. [2 q4 M' Z
16.2 Colorfastness tests/染色牢度测试 164
+ z2 _5 o! M; v9 s: P1 w9 f. C 16.2.1 Colorfastness to crocking/耐摩擦色牢度 164 P I6 ]2 X3 z7 d% y! ?
16.2.2 Colorfastness to laundering and bleaching/耐洗涤和耐漂白色牢 165
% O$ b( E1 ]6 O% S! I 16.2.3 Colorfastness to drycleaning/耐干洗色牢度 166
: V( U# F% T& r- L) ^; T 16.2.4 Colorfastness to perspiration/耐汗渍色牢度 166
8 k: V: o( [' z% ]6 O) T2 H 16.2.5 Colorfastness to water/耐水浸色牢度 166
, S6 k/ S! ?" B 16.2.6 Colorfastness to light/耐光照色牢度 167
. A7 {9 ]9 u. I( u 16.2.7 Colorfastness to atmospheric contaminants/耐空气污染色牢度 168% L3 Y5 x7 R8 i0 Z# u
Questions/思考题 168
. t% @4 z! G$ N. I a Chapter 17 Fabric Flammability/织物可燃性 169( l( {) y' `0 x1 M% Z2 @
17.1 Flammability standards/可燃性标准 169: U7 \4 a5 c5 n q- J2 p/ [! S
17.2 Properties affecting flammability/影响可燃性的因素 169+ R- a8 u6 s2 e( ?7 }3 N& e9 P& p
17.3 Flammability testing/可燃性测试 171
" {6 K$ {) m$ Z: v 17.3.1 Forty-five degree angle test/45°燃烧测试法 1711 m9 T' E- N9 ]6 y( X
17.3.2 Vertical flame tests/垂直燃烧测试法 172
$ r# f% q! f( |- P 17.3.3 Carpet testing/地毯测试 172( ?3 o2 m. T) M# j( w. O; I
17.3.4 Cigarette tests/卷烟点燃测试 1725 @* `% }# J1 o, v0 C
17.3.5 Other standard flammability tests/其他可燃性测试 173
, z5 J% I5 \& z2 W6 v8 S$ F Questions/思考题 173- M+ c M6 z0 A) q
Chapter 18 Comfort of Textiles/纺织品舒适性 174( X. ]( \- L6 e! K
18.1 Physical phenomena affecting thermal comfort/影响热舒适性能的物理现象 174
N+ ^# h' l" c8 B" t 18.1.1 Heat transfer/热传递 174
4 I' T+ q6 E8 ~! C5 V 18.1.2 Moisture transfer/湿传递 175
J! i, g5 E- e+ m d: h/ H 18.1.3 Water resistance/抗水性 175
) p3 Z& [( P' @0 k% _/ E 18.1.4 Air transfer/透气性 176
$ V9 R/ e6 D6 V* a 18.1.5 Porosity and cover factor/多孔性和覆盖系数 176- k( P% i8 P9 N/ B0 P
18.1.6 Electrostatic propensity/静电 177
' T0 Y! k! ~7 l5 K 18.2 Evaluations of textile properties related to comfort/与舒适性相关的纺织品性能评价 177
9 l0 w- n5 t1 ^5 X5 C 18.2.1 Heat transfer/热传递 178
2 I) |* m E. z8 t: G, O# ?$ s: H 18.2.2 Moisture properties/湿传递性能 179% _0 M( }9 R! n. s; l
18.2.3 Air permeability/透气性 179
_ p4 S( `+ K+ m: l 18.2.4 Porosity/孔隙率 1806 } `" c; v% T& `7 m- h( Q
18.2.5 Electrostatic tests/静电测试 180 \+ D7 m" ]" i ?
Questions/思考题 180
' l: }! [* q& OAppendix/附录 181" @4 n/ T1 K- n
AATCC:AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS/美国纺织化学家与染色家协会 181- F9 B8 Q) v9 |. l
ASTM:AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR TESTING AND MATERIALS/美国材料试验学会 184
: W. I0 E# g7 U+ n; B9 f7 JVocabulary/词汇表 189
* x6 f9 v& w) C7 n, |: z. ~References/参考文献 197" i. H5 T) z4 T$ K0 C8 I
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