
纺织材料学(双语教材),刘妍,熊磊,PDF。普通高等教育“十一五”国家级规划教材(本科),纺织工程专业双语教材,电子目录,14M。3 b7 v+ \9 W" ^% S+ a* f+ z7 w
0 z2 z+ K$ \3 R$ ~5 B- x内容提要 _3 a+ t& s. W, Z" _! ^8 u
本书讨论了纤维、纱线与织物(包括机织物、针织物及非织造布)的结构、机械性能、物理性能及使用性能。涉及的纤维势括天然纤维(如棉、毛、麻、丝等)、传统化学纤维及新型化学纤维。本书同时介绍了纤维、纱线和织物的各种标准测试方法(包括国际上常用的ASTM, AATCC及GB等方法),并讨论了与各种测试方法有关的测试原理及对测试结果的影响因素。
) f% X/ I4 E2 W i' S0 k. p本书可供高等纺织院校纺织、服装相关专业的本科生及研究生作为《纺织材料学》的双语教材或专业英语教材,也可供其他专业师生、纺织贸易专业人员和科研及生产单位的技术人员参考。1 X# a9 O0 P$ }
目录* `; K0 ?" C. D' b6 i, o* q
Part Ⅰ An Introduction to Textiles/纺织入门 189 r2 y( p: c1 u/ o: L
Chapter 1 Introduction/介绍 18
( B B3 f/ M$ S8 T. ? 1.1 ASTM Standard Terminology Relating to Textiles/ASTM纺织标准术语 18
/ A5 `1 Q1 {0 z9 _0 Y) k. V y 1.2 Fiber history/纤维历史 265 x1 F2 ?8 e) ^5 s0 Z
1.2.1 Natural fibers/天然纤维 267 }7 \$ g. D- H, B9 _2 n
1.2.2 Man-made fibers/化学纤维 27. F+ Y7 @2 r( m$ ?1 v1 l
Questions/思考题 30) n; B8 U8 I* H
Part Ⅱ Textile Fibers/纺织纤维 32
( Q% m& i* N9 v* t1 U- t: x9 G Chapter 2 Natural Cellulosic Fibers/天然纤维素纤维 32+ k6 I3 O7 F* k3 R8 ^
2.1 Cotton/棉 33+ m" `6 F# x. O) l" s7 S
2.1.1 Nature of cotton/棉花的种类 33
6 Q( u; s2 s8 O& E9 l 2.1.2 Classification/分类 34
6 Q& Q) M& w/ u 2.1.3 Growth and structure of cotton/棉纤维的生长与结构 34
2 p& i. C+ r6 Q! X2 h 2.1.4 Maturity/成熟度 36
4 w5 l3 ?+ x i- z9 d: I( a 2.1.5 Cotton properties/棉纤维的性能 38
; r% |" h" F: _+ u+ Y- n9 Y 2.1.6 Cotton classification/棉花分级 399 ^) ~# p- }9 M; N1 ~) J; O
2.2 Bast fibers/韧皮纤维 40
+ d% k& E( |" _ |, H 2.2.1 Flax (linen)/亚麻,亚麻织物 41
- Z/ V$ U4 q' e 2.2.2 Ramie/苎麻 43- d4 T% ~- @; A) ^! _) o
2.2.3 Hemp/汉麻 444 F( x3 e) a4 K( g& {
2.2.4 Jute/黄麻 44
( K* Z7 V/ s* p$ [' f1 z4 c) ? Questions/思考题 45
b* Y! e, x- \3 A6 d Chapter 3 Natural Protein Fibers/天然蛋白质纤维 46
3 c' k9 e. \" s% n( s 3.1 Wool/绵羊毛 46 T. U. ]4 X4 W
3.1.1 Wool production and history/羊毛生产和历史 46
- d# c; d: @" Z6 r( `: m G$ x 3.1.2 Wool grading/羊毛分级 479 {1 Y# q* T! J4 M9 ?$ o8 x
3.1.3 Wool structure/羊毛结构 47
6 O0 C: N) O8 g( S# A: ] 3.1.4 Wool properties/羊毛性能 48
! a9 W0 a1 l T1 F. Q# d) N 3.2 Specialty animal fibers/特种动物毛 51
( q( V' }( @ j' Z 3.3 Silk/丝 52. H7 @4 ?+ i! k% q' R
Questions/思考题 54
; B# l3 c$ y$ K: } Chapter 4 Man-made Fibers/化学纤维 55
7 _6 m7 w# x5 u 4.1 Manufacturing processing of fiber/纤维生产工艺 55. }' U2 g, ?: N- h9 P$ N$ O
4.1.1 Wet spinning/湿法纺丝 56; q$ n* T3 _* O7 h
4.1.2 Dry spinning/干法纺丝 56
# C- I7 i& |! O( S/ M( w5 p) Y 4.1.3 Melt spinning/熔体法纺丝 56# N* K7 l1 w! w6 r8 J. e/ z
4.1.4 Gel spinning/凝胶纺丝 57% @. |$ l n; g7 z
4.2 Regenerated fibers/再生纤维 57
. u5 M: @( o2 h7 Q( z0 u 4.2.1 Acetate/醋酯纤维 570 F |5 w* ?- ?/ ~( i# J
4.2.2 Triacetate/三醋酯纤维 59
, [! s5 d H0 E 4.2.3 Viscose fibers/粘胶纤维 593 m& i; A- I- g8 G9 g1 e, q# h8 r+ U
4.3 Synthetic fibers/合成纤维 60- p2 D9 T0 u4 \- n
4.3.1 Acrylic/腈纶 60
& B- V5 a+ v$ v! O 4.3.2 Modacrylic/改性腈纶 615 _+ x5 J, h7 l" P2 B
4.3.3 Nylon/锦纶 61/ t* A9 i' s3 |
4.3.4 Polyester/涤纶 62
3 [1 h8 V* y a% @: i; o 4.3.5 PBI/聚苯并咪唑纤维 63* `3 G0 b" U: j7 V
4.3.6 Vinal/聚乙烯醇纤维 63* D3 G, z" l% p/ P8 u& A4 E
4.3.7 Olefin/聚烯烃纤维 63
4 h t1 N3 o" P! G 4.3.8 Aramid/芳纶 645 R( e- z# S9 O& Q4 |' G- d5 g- O! C* z
4.3.9 Lycra/莱卡 64
0 ^3 |, i; Y/ @, p+ {% c 4.4 Other man-made fibers/其他化学纤维 66
. o) `5 X7 J% s% t4 o F7 } 4.4.1 Glass/玻璃纤维 66' `+ _% L9 U& K9 a$ r2 V: l2 v- w
4.4.2 Metallic/金属纤维 67
6 N O2 O. P1 j0 S8 j2 e1 n Questions/思考题 67
* Q( H7 i% `) s P7 H; t, ] Chapter 5 New Fibers/新型纤维 687 ~1 |5 U4 e& C5 r" ~! [
5.1 Carbon fibers/碳纤维 68
5 ?7 I" m5 H: X4 } 5.2 Fluorocarbon/氟碳纤维 68! N4 R- o9 X# u) ?* x* r0 I
5.3 Lyocell fibers(Tencel)/莱塞尔纤维 68
! V& E' X' w6 Q7 X" W$ ^* b 5.4 High-wet-modulus fibers/高湿模量纤维 69! @7 w) F" M0 o& j2 R) _; I
5.4.1 Modal fibers/莫代尔纤维 69% n1 }" }% I4 A; v, A
5.4.2 Richcel/丽赛纤维 70/ F' f; b# c3 t: V7 M- K& J
5.5 Soybean protein composite fibers/大豆蛋白复合纤维 702 Q! ]4 Q( V: R( X' {
5.6 PLA fiber/聚左旋乳酸纤维 71
4 P( `! F' N) U% y- ~ 5.7 Heterogenous fibers/复合纤维 71
8 q0 Q2 n. c( D' B8 q6 W 5.7.1 Bicomponent or multicomponent/双组分或多组分 725 W& u- _2 p4 A5 r2 g2 X, Z1 A
5.7.2 Biconstituent or multiconstituent/双成分或多成分 73 |! E! T4 I1 j# S
5.7.3 Matrix or matrix-fibril/基质型纤维 73
6 S# k3 k- s% z( ^ 5.8 Differential fibers/差别化纤维 74
8 \$ c `+ P: e; a* s 5.9 Functional fibers/功能性纤维 74
3 b- {1 b" f) i+ \$ j+ ` 5.10 High performance fibers/高性能纤维 74
4 C) _. ~8 I ~3 y Questions/思考题 74* o5 N: `4 Q% ] I$ h' x
Chapter 6 The Property of Absorbing Moisture/吸湿性 75
. N5 [4 W$ K/ Z& g0 J8 B 6.1 Orientation and crystallization/取向与结晶 75
; P4 R7 v; u7 Z S 6.2 Moisture sorption/吸湿性 75
0 w, s7 C0 e) m% l2 z 6.2.1 Regain and moisture content/回潮率与含水率 75- x& u) S2 W& J& Q5 f- m V q
6.2.2 Relation between regain and relative humidity/回潮率与相对湿度的关系 757 b$ v; d1 p4 V) v' B+ r3 x: z% M
6.2.3 Comparison of various materials/不同材料吸湿性的对比 76
. u# Y/ t2 X! g m 6.2.4 Theories of moisture sorption/吸湿理论 781 e& D: K3 @# T. c2 E. U
Questions/思考题 80( K6 s( y6 D* e" U6 O
Chapter 7 Other Physical Properties of Textile Fibers/纤维的其他物理性能 81/ C: R' c8 o' t7 ^6 _9 [
7.1 Electronic properties/电学性能 81 S" j0 p5 q. V" V6 i! ?& y8 q1 s
7.1.1 Definitions/定义 81
& G/ B% p4 Q. B1 A9 `8 w E, G; e 7.2 Optical properties/光学性能 82
' S$ V+ P. E. ?# K 7.3 Thermal properties/热学性能 83/ o6 H3 D1 C& x6 Q, K# v: l
7.3.1 Thermal parameters/热力学参数 83( j9 q# {2 F4 U2 {8 F
7.3.2 A comparison of temperature effects/温度效应比较 83( h; A+ g, f: n* J. n. U- A1 O
Questions/思考题 831 b+ y( W/ s9 P, u2 F* U4 r
Part Ⅲ Textile Yarns/纺织纱线 84
2 B7 _: @* U/ x2 L4 R8 V Chapter 8 Yarn Processing and Construction/纱线制造与结构 84
. ]' }3 x1 O* |# @4 ~: C, p 8.1 Spun yarns/短纤纱 85& ]1 ^+ {: Y- |* q" ~ |" m6 c
8.2 Filament yarns/长丝纱 85
, I) z' c% j- x |8 S 8.3 Methods of yarn processing/纺纱方法 852 X; U+ Z# I' W- U7 v4 [
8.3.1 Ring-spinning/环锭纺 86
2 a% O; w( c* ?3 @4 B( r$ O& s8 T/ U 8.3.2 New methods of yarn processing/新型纺纱方法 86. }) f, n. {' b+ m* ] E
8.4 Single and ply yarns/单纱和股线 89 n& ~9 B8 }0 \% R1 V9 z
8.5 Special types of yarn/特种纱线 901 w7 |2 l+ b; ~ i- l# P
8.5.1 Fancy yarns/花式纱 90
8 q3 O y- |8 m 8.5.2 Stretch yarns/弹力纱 91! t; H. h4 y% g
8.5.3 Textured yarns 变形纱线 91
" }! H% P$ ]8 G$ {1 a: {# y' j 8.6 Blends and mixtures yarns/纱线混纺与混用 924 T. U/ K" l% X
Questions/思考题 93
, z K+ u8 {6 n6 f1 H Chapter 9 Yarn Properties/纱线性能 94
5 r* c* p4 j8 S$ f9 }" c4 t 9.1 Yarn number/纱线细度 94
( `- N+ b/ \7 |& E: X w- U; G0 X 9.1.1 Denier system/旦数 94
' I9 P" F! v% L6 _ 9.1.2 Yarn count system/纱线英制支数 94
9 Y- }; a' J# i 9.1.3 Tex system/线密度 95$ _$ ~# @) M* m* h8 t2 q# ?; [
9.1.4 Metric numbering system/公制支数 95& o1 t: [8 _( x
9.1.5 Conversion in different systems/不同系统之间的换算 95! t5 r2 h i% L3 m3 _; ~
9.2 Ply yarn counts and singles equivalent/股线支数与单纱支数 95
* j$ Q: Y8 j) e( H* e( y. K 9.3 Yarn twist/纱线捻度 96
; ^3 m7 ?+ U7 W+ _ 9.4 Yarn hairiness/纱线毛羽 974 [1 o3 I, u8 ]0 r0 G {
9.4.1 Hairiness test method/毛羽测试方法 98) e7 e1 `1 J9 J* E8 G; V8 e& J
9.4.2 Factors affecting hairiness/影响毛羽的因素 98+ f( P3 b& M% Y9 l
9.5 Yarn unevenness/纱线不匀 99$ M6 G0 z5 c1 z- t2 }- v
9.5.1 Test of yarn unevenness/纱线不匀的测试 99
0 b5 a6 g+ M+ ]$ Q/ ` 9.5.2 Reasons for yarn unevenness/纱线不匀的原因 100
4 ^0 I, ?$ @& p 9.6 Classification of yarn quality/纱线质量分析 100: s' z( C0 k0 d( u1 U. }
Questions/思考题 100% b: b( |2 f" y- g3 g1 G
Part Ⅳ Textile Fabrics/织物 1025 x4 c/ \0 W& M7 o' t+ I% G
Chapter 10 Woven Fabrics/机织物 102
1 O( E( F4 M7 |8 @8 e ?2 z- c 10.1 Making woven fabrics/织制机织物 102* K U: y) B& e
10.1.1 The loom/织机 102
: I. U) L# c8 C7 c1 V 10.1.2 Loom type/织机类型 1042 j5 o+ v* s6 M5 I+ o w' r$ C
10.1.3 Loom motions/织机运动 104
1 [: h! `* @7 p1 \/ K8 O2 d& v) L 10.1.4 Electronics in weaving/电子技术在织机中的应用 1054 P M0 r1 F$ P
10.1.5 The selvage/布边 105
$ B. B* ? `% C% X0 { 10.2 Warp yarns and filling yarns/经纱和纬纱 1058 n$ A0 e) I/ J# i2 f* V
10.2.1 Identification/鉴别 106& {5 B+ o/ F8 e( o
10.3 Face and back/正面与反面 1060 T2 u5 j3 z O$ f
10.3.1 Reasons for differenee/存在差异的原因 107
1 Q; g1 x4 i" e* h" g+ S 10.3.2 Caution/应用的要点 1070 r' y1 r E. K; I8 u
10.4 Top and bottom/顶端和底端 1071 A& M; i0 w, a6 j, p2 {0 }, s$ y
10.4.1 Reasons for difference/存在差异的原因 107+ p* t, i" x" r
10.5 Weave floats/组织浮线 108 |( o4 C. K- j+ P* q
10.6 Basic weaves/基本组织 108
. J A) \; s C1 q2 | 10.6.1 Plain weave/平纹组织 108
& G# L+ }3 {# O* d( u2 f- p 10.6.2 Twill weave/斜纹组织 109# Q7 }& U( Z8 C- @6 x
10.6.3 Satin weave/缎纹组织 111
, p4 C. \; r, ~0 Y! v 10.7 Fabric performance and characteristics/织物性能和参数 112" ^4 B2 f5 ]4 Q# e$ m# ]6 {1 ^3 E6 g2 a
10.7.1 Fabric width/幅宽 112
" ?. H1 b2 C' J1 T 10.7.2 Fabric weight/织物重量 112' R+ K, F% B0 s# @, p6 x9 y3 _
10.7.3 Fabric thickness/织物厚度 113
. O& k. p5 r+ S9 j0 U3 a 10.7.4 Fabric density/织物密度 113
0 T, U* p# y O$ [3 x; b- [; F 10.7.5 Fabric count/织物经纬密度 113
# N3 d2 q' y+ j6 Y1 v 10.7.6 Fabric defects/织物疵点 113) W7 c* L/ a9 T4 H) Q. b, Z
Questions/思考题 1132 \+ P9 ^6 }; d% b+ l' |
Chapter 11 Knitted Fabrics/针织物 1148 ~/ @/ Y. m( L& q- Z {' J0 Z: y
11.1 Making of knitted fabric/针织物形成 114
# _$ e- N0 W4 y6 T9 H7 T 11.1.1 The forming of knitted stitches/线圈的形成 114& L# j8 J% s' j. c" q& x
11.1.2 Types of knitted stitches/线圈的种类 116
% i" Q9 e8 R3 `7 C) A$ ]/ J 11.2 Weft knits/纬编针织物 117
3 {- M! B, c2 V! i8 y: A 11.2.1 Jersey knit fabric/纬平针织物 1179 w) y4 X! Y7 a& x% J, M1 |3 f
11.2.2 Rib knit fabric/罗纹针织物 118
$ m' q$ F9 R- j3 y z; L( j 11.2.3 Purl knit fabric/双反面针织物 119
2 }# O3 A- S2 j/ `' Q: B 11.2.4 Double knits/双面针织物 120/ q$ P# Y+ `, v }7 f
11.2.5 Full-fashioned knits/全成形针织物 120 n5 Z2 C% _2 X
11.3 Warp knits/经编针织物 1211 M8 W1 n8 {, b' N9 c; X2 K
11.3.1 Tricot fabrics/特里科经编针织物 121
6 }/ ~3 W5 r# ^- `1 [# ~( } 11.3.2 Raschel fabrics/拉舍尔经编针织物 122, Y; J' [: \ y- n- u
11.4 Performance and characteristics/性能和参数 122) q$ Z! Y, ^5 ~! O* I
Questions/思考题 1232 n: V7 M+ p. ~& {7 b( h) _$ e
Chapter 12 Nonwoven Fabrics/非织造布 124
- }0 b1 P/ }1 Y& V& b [3 n \" ?! w 12.1 Introduction/导论 124. p3 {- i9 D! a$ g
12.2 Manufacturing methods/生产方法 125
" ?8 @/ y4 l' L2 ?+ \ 12.2.1 Dry laid system/干法成网 125% u; C1 u0 ~ u. w' P5 e% k
12.2.2 Wet laid system/湿法成网 125
- h& F: S) U# o: r( J 12.2.3 Polymer laid system/聚合物挤压法 125
7 R+ M. q$ I* z5 ]- P 12.3 Various nonwovens/各种非织造布 1251 g C2 e3 a U# v' K
12.3.1 Needle punched nonwovens/针刺法非织造布 1256 F: f: x/ P1 e$ [: C7 r( z
12.3.2 Bonded web nonwovens/黏合法非织造布 126
# a0 p2 f% W* l V 12.3.3 Spunlaced nonwovens/射流喷网法非织造布 127
; r- j" O* Q. O 12.3.4 Spunbonded nonwovens/纺粘法非织造布 128/ v5 L" I3 F3 C% `6 @
12.3.5 Melt-blown nonwovens/熔喷法非织造布 129 f8 I* g# [/ m* @) Z
Questions/思考题 129
8 M6 |. K5 N( ^# m/ C$ e' pPart Ⅴ Textile Testing/纺织品测试 130
; I e, ~ y; d6 d5 R* I1 E% M: H5 w& s Chapter 13 General Test Methods/常规测试方法 130
& X- O r, Z! Q1 a' t1 W- N7 ` ^ 13.1 General fiber tests/纤维常规测试 130
+ g# r) ]! f! ?; U 13.1.1 Fiber identification/纤维鉴别 1302 O' s7 q3 m' t$ p
13.1.2 Fiber length/纤维长度 1343 w5 G1 m4 V7 c0 V
13.1.3 Fiber fineness or linear density/纤维细度或线密度 135
" w8 o+ @3 e% R- a; y5 ^ 13.1.4 Cross-sectional shape/截面形状 135) x: M5 K$ f4 z) e- c
13.1.5 Crimp/卷曲 135/ G) }1 I( K- [
13.1.6 Regain/回潮率 136, Z- p7 u, d2 _2 ~
13.1.7 Mechanical properties/机械性能 1362 @$ F" }5 H7 G
13.1.8 Chemical characteristics/化学性能 136$ ], a' x8 i$ i- w: S# L$ i
13.1.9 Surface characteristics/表面性能 1367 G: O9 J7 @% {3 L0 U! [
13.1.10 Density and specific gravity/密度和相对密度 137
. J( d5 V) }& M9 d 13.2 Special tests for natural fibers/天然纤维的测试 137/ ~7 D. K' M8 O! S k! l2 f9 u
13.2.1 Tests for cotton/棉纤维测试 1376 X' `* `0 G6 [: F! |/ B3 k( _1 d
13.2.2 Tests for wool/毛纤维测试 139
7 \5 A; P% J! w$ I+ C" f 13.3 Testing of tensile properties/拉伸性能测试 140
. p% a3 `$ r0 H3 C& w) v/ @8 T 13.3.1 Description of tensile proprieties/拉伸性能的描述 141
0 y. w% S: r, R+ p4 H8 Z+ l- i$ [ 13.3.2 Fiber and yarn tensile testing/纤维和纱线拉伸性能的测试 146
4 b" R$ a* V! d' { j- c, X& W 13.3.3 Fabric tensile testing/织物拉伸性能测试方法 147% I2 {& ?' N- p u# Q9 ]
Questions/思考题 149
3 a( Z" |! |' U, f" U6 I Chapter 14 Fabric Abrasion and Pilling/织物磨损与起球 150
; z5 u& s- P% X1 M 14.1 Types of abrasion/磨损的类型 150
# I3 n4 C# O. U3 Z! m% X+ Z$ { 14.1.1 Abrasion between fabrics/织物间的磨损 150
+ X* N5 W* N, }9 z( m8 Q* v 14.1.2 Abrasion between fabric and a nontextile surface/织物与非纤维制品表面磨损 1503 {8 m/ H$ o8 p) l% X
14.1.3 Abrasion within fabric/织物内部磨损 151
2 z# f. O! z9 ^4 `. d4 I7 P) w g 14.1.4 Abrasion by foreign materials within the fabric/与织物内部其他材料的磨损 151
d5 t; T5 W u3 o4 h5 F 14.2 Factors affecting fabric abrasion resistance/影响耐磨性能的因素 151
% T/ q/ n; H; w 14.2.1 Fabric properties/织物性能 151
: H8 e% s4 c3 r0 \6 s, `0 L 14.2.2 Other factors/其他因素 153
1 j; [! h+ Y S4 ? 14.3 Abrasion testing/磨损测试 154
& g+ u$ [; I6 e8 q 14.3.1 Visual comparison with an unabraded specimen/与未磨损样品视觉对比 154
% j- R+ n, A8 D8 l m 14.3.2 Number of cycles to produce a hole/产生磨损破洞需要的摩擦圈数 154. r2 F! S2 B; I6 j8 K2 e
14.3.3 Change in a physical property/物理性能的变化 154
# b$ [% }' z6 q! E4 E 14.3.4 Microscopic examination/显微镜观测 155( o6 M) X) e# r% E4 T
14.4 Aesthetics of abrasion and wear/穿着和磨损对美感的影响 155; K" r* f; W+ E! X9 i9 F
14.4.1 Color changes caused by abrasion/磨损引起的颜色变化 155" J+ p8 k- J$ v5 ]
14.4.2 Pilling/起球 156
' }; J: N4 X2 U' Z2 b9 v Questions/思考题 157% i( [7 T( b+ P0 d0 u, t* i2 y& a5 `
Chapter 15 Fabric Hand and Drape/织物手感与悬垂 158
1 G6 q, ^, P3 a7 ~5 b9 u ?$ m 15.1 Fabric hand/织物手感 158 P5 K% j1 ~. l3 |8 y7 B
15.2 Fabric drape/织物悬垂 159
7 i6 S" u+ D% T6 v 15.3 Measurement of hand and drape/手感与悬垂的评价 1612 ~ g. J8 n5 l! A
15.3.1 Subjective evaluation/主观评定法 161
6 z& f; m# Z$ @ 15.3.2 Quantitative measurement/定量评定法 162
3 i; W7 ?$ ]# Q) H3 t 15.3.3 Kawabata evaluation system/KES评定法 163; o8 x' e! G! _& x; _
Questions/思考题 163
4 m- [% B, u. V {) u/ @2 }8 a8 J Chapter 16 Fabric Colorfastness/织物染色牢度 1644 e6 q6 q, P9 c! x
16.1 Evaluation of color and colorfastness/颜色和染色牢度评定方法 164
3 _ j% i3 B. @: O" b8 o' U! p 16.2 Colorfastness tests/染色牢度测试 164# ~1 _6 c* e5 E( f; E
16.2.1 Colorfastness to crocking/耐摩擦色牢度 164: l) Y" D/ n! i4 W- k+ R
16.2.2 Colorfastness to laundering and bleaching/耐洗涤和耐漂白色牢 165- [) `& r, O2 p( }; q) A2 ?2 _
16.2.3 Colorfastness to drycleaning/耐干洗色牢度 166: E1 @6 M" Z" q1 k' t" W( Z- ~- s
16.2.4 Colorfastness to perspiration/耐汗渍色牢度 166
' M. h# p) n% t. G1 F 16.2.5 Colorfastness to water/耐水浸色牢度 166
+ X9 q! ?; \) H% O1 E! d6 { 16.2.6 Colorfastness to light/耐光照色牢度 167) a" b" r% w h7 N8 A$ Y) E
16.2.7 Colorfastness to atmospheric contaminants/耐空气污染色牢度 1680 m* p4 {, y( g8 J( o7 s# m( Q. H
Questions/思考题 168
: Q% O! {/ V/ d! U1 X$ ~1 z6 k Chapter 17 Fabric Flammability/织物可燃性 169* D: e+ ]$ B2 P" q! j0 W) O& L
17.1 Flammability standards/可燃性标准 169/ b9 A1 o- k. B/ J7 S+ M
17.2 Properties affecting flammability/影响可燃性的因素 1695 n3 C: a7 V# H. n `
17.3 Flammability testing/可燃性测试 171
) N# n- S9 m: s1 H/ f0 z/ J/ Q 17.3.1 Forty-five degree angle test/45°燃烧测试法 171
/ i, B5 m g7 T0 i" f! o 17.3.2 Vertical flame tests/垂直燃烧测试法 172
0 T. s: a0 i( l- l# ?& u7 { 17.3.3 Carpet testing/地毯测试 172
; D8 U+ \8 i2 E 17.3.4 Cigarette tests/卷烟点燃测试 172
. w* w4 @6 G5 Z G I 17.3.5 Other standard flammability tests/其他可燃性测试 173, x4 L* i4 j% S
Questions/思考题 173
0 v2 d# _: u0 ?; M( p% w Chapter 18 Comfort of Textiles/纺织品舒适性 174
$ l2 x$ L4 J- K$ _ 18.1 Physical phenomena affecting thermal comfort/影响热舒适性能的物理现象 174
$ ?( z& N8 G+ F7 G: Z3 f. M 18.1.1 Heat transfer/热传递 174! a6 r" d+ q6 Y7 Q' r/ ^% x3 H
18.1.2 Moisture transfer/湿传递 175
$ D4 J7 C/ V: e/ k# |3 W" C 18.1.3 Water resistance/抗水性 175
. v1 T, Y( f' M7 f: s7 L O( O 18.1.4 Air transfer/透气性 176
* S5 I6 P+ s0 g7 W" n9 Z- `1 Q8 w b 18.1.5 Porosity and cover factor/多孔性和覆盖系数 176) K& p' F8 X6 ~$ ]' _- B
18.1.6 Electrostatic propensity/静电 177
9 l0 m. `1 I4 a" ^% t+ `; u 18.2 Evaluations of textile properties related to comfort/与舒适性相关的纺织品性能评价 177: }9 ?$ c7 y! G9 C" h
18.2.1 Heat transfer/热传递 178( E6 z4 C" @; K" [, L
18.2.2 Moisture properties/湿传递性能 179
4 C/ C( R# F ]% z8 g G2 A 18.2.3 Air permeability/透气性 179 Y8 D3 R/ v% k: N- n
18.2.4 Porosity/孔隙率 1806 n. E/ x! G: V% v9 E' R
18.2.5 Electrostatic tests/静电测试 180
6 T& i8 M2 t: k$ L Questions/思考题 180
1 [5 i' C: y% ^+ S) nAppendix/附录 181
2 G4 ~4 C3 n, ^# ] AATCC:AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS/美国纺织化学家与染色家协会 1817 w+ r" Z4 g; ~( D# ` v
ASTM:AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR TESTING AND MATERIALS/美国材料试验学会 184
0 Y8 ~& | J9 H+ B; f" JVocabulary/词汇表 189- J/ J, m/ `( K: J+ x w4 H- }
References/参考文献 1972 x$ G3 q$ L9 ~/ t: \
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