
纺织材料学(双语教材),刘妍,熊磊,PDF。普通高等教育“十一五”国家级规划教材(本科),纺织工程专业双语教材,电子目录,14M。: T5 N0 B% S9 W, k& ~* o: b* K4 f
. V1 P0 s' l% B内容提要
6 h1 ~- B2 K+ ~: o本书讨论了纤维、纱线与织物(包括机织物、针织物及非织造布)的结构、机械性能、物理性能及使用性能。涉及的纤维势括天然纤维(如棉、毛、麻、丝等)、传统化学纤维及新型化学纤维。本书同时介绍了纤维、纱线和织物的各种标准测试方法(包括国际上常用的ASTM, AATCC及GB等方法),并讨论了与各种测试方法有关的测试原理及对测试结果的影响因素。
' R" Z3 A3 ^, s( G( Z# h本书可供高等纺织院校纺织、服装相关专业的本科生及研究生作为《纺织材料学》的双语教材或专业英语教材,也可供其他专业师生、纺织贸易专业人员和科研及生产单位的技术人员参考。
, L3 X# y, F" O目录! ?6 }, o/ h1 g$ C" t; w( r
Part Ⅰ An Introduction to Textiles/纺织入门 181 r- k/ c, B* m& p: E; d2 |& _+ W W
Chapter 1 Introduction/介绍 18
7 J' \$ G d( B, \( a8 M 1.1 ASTM Standard Terminology Relating to Textiles/ASTM纺织标准术语 18* x& _1 v9 L: V2 G( J1 ?4 X7 k
1.2 Fiber history/纤维历史 26
7 E+ p" f% H7 d, L& _ 1.2.1 Natural fibers/天然纤维 26, [5 _7 ^, i* k! ^
1.2.2 Man-made fibers/化学纤维 27( k& w& s$ E; X! n" D2 S* h
Questions/思考题 308 L) C$ @; _( X M/ ]) i! l
Part Ⅱ Textile Fibers/纺织纤维 32: H) I8 L: ?* \4 i Q o
Chapter 2 Natural Cellulosic Fibers/天然纤维素纤维 32
3 T ?) U5 I4 r; I/ D* l6 E 2.1 Cotton/棉 33
$ F: R/ j% [5 f9 j1 } 2.1.1 Nature of cotton/棉花的种类 33
4 K+ [4 n0 s& ]: J6 L 2.1.2 Classification/分类 34
3 A$ U' m) [' `7 }6 T4 n' W 2.1.3 Growth and structure of cotton/棉纤维的生长与结构 34' W& V- C- h7 [5 ]& ]
2.1.4 Maturity/成熟度 36
" w2 Q/ F; O6 { S; ?6 W 2.1.5 Cotton properties/棉纤维的性能 38
- x/ {4 w+ Y9 E( s& X& } 2.1.6 Cotton classification/棉花分级 398 F* R; K- E ?6 `# j& I
2.2 Bast fibers/韧皮纤维 403 n4 g5 a0 j' E, H+ g; J$ \
2.2.1 Flax (linen)/亚麻,亚麻织物 41& G' q ~/ e, q7 M
2.2.2 Ramie/苎麻 43
u! g; J6 t( Z# Y" @' a8 O) C# B8 S1 ` 2.2.3 Hemp/汉麻 44
6 b) S3 Z$ Y0 p$ u' Q) N 2.2.4 Jute/黄麻 44
" ~6 A7 q1 f2 }" I) B9 l; C Questions/思考题 45
: k+ O* z6 r* u+ J Chapter 3 Natural Protein Fibers/天然蛋白质纤维 463 c5 H! F0 i" Q
3.1 Wool/绵羊毛 46
. h+ g B9 w/ G 3.1.1 Wool production and history/羊毛生产和历史 468 O( F5 v% B) J
3.1.2 Wool grading/羊毛分级 47. C: \$ ]+ f; `1 e
3.1.3 Wool structure/羊毛结构 47# E' [% T+ b: h, s: e% k
3.1.4 Wool properties/羊毛性能 48$ f, A* D' s+ U0 |+ e$ C# [
3.2 Specialty animal fibers/特种动物毛 51
6 c M7 P3 \, u- R9 p 3.3 Silk/丝 52/ m* r" y, s. Y
Questions/思考题 546 s2 H( q, e A' g
Chapter 4 Man-made Fibers/化学纤维 55( @9 k6 m- \$ \6 W+ g
4.1 Manufacturing processing of fiber/纤维生产工艺 55
$ Z( k3 R% M% ^. D6 U 4.1.1 Wet spinning/湿法纺丝 569 p8 u$ a( D5 j
4.1.2 Dry spinning/干法纺丝 564 K f5 W9 N- p5 a% w% M. V4 d4 K
4.1.3 Melt spinning/熔体法纺丝 562 R- V( h8 j* o8 e
4.1.4 Gel spinning/凝胶纺丝 57
: g* h2 N6 k0 s/ [ 4.2 Regenerated fibers/再生纤维 57/ K9 }! a9 K, g2 \
4.2.1 Acetate/醋酯纤维 57
8 R7 f3 }3 K( j 4.2.2 Triacetate/三醋酯纤维 598 I- s) f% P+ w% P
4.2.3 Viscose fibers/粘胶纤维 59
2 ^; u* S1 K7 O- y7 i' i' w7 t( B 4.3 Synthetic fibers/合成纤维 603 C" C" J) g! i# \* r# s) m
4.3.1 Acrylic/腈纶 60; V9 E5 H/ N- k. q
4.3.2 Modacrylic/改性腈纶 61
) N, }6 l: }% V# x" D 4.3.3 Nylon/锦纶 61
2 k2 P3 @! O, U% d3 {2 e 4.3.4 Polyester/涤纶 62
: m3 p7 D1 T! G5 G& k" M/ W$ }- m 4.3.5 PBI/聚苯并咪唑纤维 63
/ @+ F7 d8 ~$ b2 Z# x 4.3.6 Vinal/聚乙烯醇纤维 634 f+ N9 U. d! ?6 l$ n
4.3.7 Olefin/聚烯烃纤维 634 `6 Z9 \) V" H; c
4.3.8 Aramid/芳纶 64
6 b( q+ p4 i, C 4.3.9 Lycra/莱卡 64. _4 U$ D5 K0 b! T4 ?
4.4 Other man-made fibers/其他化学纤维 66
9 m; d* a) W1 D& u7 {% k1 S' k 4.4.1 Glass/玻璃纤维 66$ D; @( ~+ T; X6 C
4.4.2 Metallic/金属纤维 67
9 | c& I/ J. V( y& @ Questions/思考题 67# d. ~$ Q x# c
Chapter 5 New Fibers/新型纤维 68
. C% C3 t" E5 V8 ~/ ?3 m% B 5.1 Carbon fibers/碳纤维 68
j( T' U u. E6 V" V: u 5.2 Fluorocarbon/氟碳纤维 68' I; n# m I6 j4 n, C$ w
5.3 Lyocell fibers(Tencel)/莱塞尔纤维 68
# B5 I8 L1 g+ D1 f' [' Q+ Q 5.4 High-wet-modulus fibers/高湿模量纤维 69
; s V+ n1 T9 H" N" N$ U3 V 5.4.1 Modal fibers/莫代尔纤维 69
$ D) p5 T! \$ W. U- Q+ J! j 5.4.2 Richcel/丽赛纤维 70
8 Y# a! a8 L/ y; ^ 5.5 Soybean protein composite fibers/大豆蛋白复合纤维 704 x( X! K! A I- w. e
5.6 PLA fiber/聚左旋乳酸纤维 71
# D. s% i# {& A) Y* o6 \3 k6 A6 L 5.7 Heterogenous fibers/复合纤维 71
8 i% x6 x4 J# F 5.7.1 Bicomponent or multicomponent/双组分或多组分 72
$ U3 v7 I% f! a; a C 5.7.2 Biconstituent or multiconstituent/双成分或多成分 73
$ }: b% o$ W6 o; Y1 X* ~5 s! w9 {2 v 5.7.3 Matrix or matrix-fibril/基质型纤维 73
. P- q8 R5 v& z5 N& s 5.8 Differential fibers/差别化纤维 74- O. L1 V( P! ` ^% ~ e+ f
5.9 Functional fibers/功能性纤维 740 l$ U W- b$ \- w% v8 s0 N
5.10 High performance fibers/高性能纤维 74; A# L# p4 ^; Q8 k5 N
Questions/思考题 74
7 v& g6 ~0 O* `1 H7 ?5 p Chapter 6 The Property of Absorbing Moisture/吸湿性 75- s! W2 N3 v* {, U2 H, d* e5 J
6.1 Orientation and crystallization/取向与结晶 75# N Q% i% _/ m1 w& Z: \: }$ \; x2 `( @
6.2 Moisture sorption/吸湿性 75" P) U1 r+ V5 y# w4 J
6.2.1 Regain and moisture content/回潮率与含水率 75
* x$ D0 b9 i0 D! t 6.2.2 Relation between regain and relative humidity/回潮率与相对湿度的关系 759 h' k- d! ^. n& K: g& T+ m
6.2.3 Comparison of various materials/不同材料吸湿性的对比 76% x W) t5 U' a( W4 F
6.2.4 Theories of moisture sorption/吸湿理论 78
; w+ w1 f, P! u8 V* @ Questions/思考题 80) g- y3 l0 P: y$ t$ q
Chapter 7 Other Physical Properties of Textile Fibers/纤维的其他物理性能 81$ M0 D5 V- S8 Q; O1 b
7.1 Electronic properties/电学性能 81
& Z, l e. p A 7.1.1 Definitions/定义 81) ~* W8 D. K0 p0 g8 j
7.2 Optical properties/光学性能 82
/ z7 d& e9 Q1 [( I! I) {& t: K 7.3 Thermal properties/热学性能 839 B8 n3 X+ }9 C! j7 ]" ?/ S( R/ \
7.3.1 Thermal parameters/热力学参数 83
) ?) _5 u# ] h; |3 C# s 7.3.2 A comparison of temperature effects/温度效应比较 83
- @+ S! R* S) Z Questions/思考题 833 g) o+ R: ~; }& W5 m
Part Ⅲ Textile Yarns/纺织纱线 84
' C7 J: w3 k) p1 W* i4 o8 H2 [0 u Chapter 8 Yarn Processing and Construction/纱线制造与结构 84/ U& Q& ~2 Y9 Z# P
8.1 Spun yarns/短纤纱 851 o. M, |4 X+ j' u
8.2 Filament yarns/长丝纱 85: |4 {- G) W% P+ W0 [& _
8.3 Methods of yarn processing/纺纱方法 85* \6 m8 c- q9 u: H7 q8 n* M
8.3.1 Ring-spinning/环锭纺 86' a/ u J1 P4 c8 H$ @$ N/ _0 B
8.3.2 New methods of yarn processing/新型纺纱方法 86
) {1 o5 c/ X5 _# _- R 8.4 Single and ply yarns/单纱和股线 89
) P2 ]' M9 k- J# Z& Q. l 8.5 Special types of yarn/特种纱线 90
2 _. N0 r& C* X7 T9 H 8.5.1 Fancy yarns/花式纱 901 @% u9 _/ j* U* s1 h1 z5 \( |
8.5.2 Stretch yarns/弹力纱 91
. u8 L$ F9 M# r6 E/ t. }1 a 8.5.3 Textured yarns 变形纱线 915 p$ Q* v2 T! S
8.6 Blends and mixtures yarns/纱线混纺与混用 92
3 `9 W0 z" L8 j5 ]0 z Questions/思考题 939 b1 S+ I% s8 x. F7 W/ v) Z* {
Chapter 9 Yarn Properties/纱线性能 94( s0 E) {: q; o# k m2 U
9.1 Yarn number/纱线细度 94
* ]5 w' k( K- [* ] 9.1.1 Denier system/旦数 941 ~& u$ W+ v; b) ?1 b
9.1.2 Yarn count system/纱线英制支数 94
: _" S. T1 ]1 ]6 U 9.1.3 Tex system/线密度 958 d! m) \8 N: T
9.1.4 Metric numbering system/公制支数 95
* ^* | s9 u+ D% {8 x 9.1.5 Conversion in different systems/不同系统之间的换算 95
+ N" b* K0 r, a; U, R5 p 9.2 Ply yarn counts and singles equivalent/股线支数与单纱支数 95 y8 ]' Q# Z+ ]' }
9.3 Yarn twist/纱线捻度 96; ]0 b+ H7 Q$ z0 F5 b' K) F. W. j8 L
9.4 Yarn hairiness/纱线毛羽 97
, {4 |0 p* j: E: J) W 9.4.1 Hairiness test method/毛羽测试方法 98
2 |: l4 n( e2 C+ ? 9.4.2 Factors affecting hairiness/影响毛羽的因素 98
9 U' D) Q' i5 W7 s" O 9.5 Yarn unevenness/纱线不匀 99
% z/ Y' }' O" R) ?& S 9.5.1 Test of yarn unevenness/纱线不匀的测试 99
$ q' D- @: o+ J6 d& m 9.5.2 Reasons for yarn unevenness/纱线不匀的原因 100
: q$ b9 H8 N% T+ V7 b# L 9.6 Classification of yarn quality/纱线质量分析 100
1 d' R7 N9 Z/ \ M8 }/ b6 [ Questions/思考题 100; T$ X8 x; E2 M/ O' V
Part Ⅳ Textile Fabrics/织物 102( G g' o) U$ G: U9 B
Chapter 10 Woven Fabrics/机织物 102
$ m' j' |! Z1 C- w. ^1 Z 10.1 Making woven fabrics/织制机织物 102
: g1 _$ @ j, F0 t. }! N) _ 10.1.1 The loom/织机 102
2 c9 I* `/ h9 w Q# W+ M3 `9 N, H( a 10.1.2 Loom type/织机类型 104
, j- f7 K! q c; \8 _5 G 10.1.3 Loom motions/织机运动 104" W; O- i% }' |) m3 c% W1 C$ y
10.1.4 Electronics in weaving/电子技术在织机中的应用 105; r# C& l& G$ F* A# ]( d/ m
10.1.5 The selvage/布边 105
4 D% T% T7 H& w5 L8 q- b 10.2 Warp yarns and filling yarns/经纱和纬纱 105
4 L* K/ l! J% H; s+ g 10.2.1 Identification/鉴别 106
$ Q" S, I) z* q 10.3 Face and back/正面与反面 106
1 m t, B) T! G' h S f: G 10.3.1 Reasons for differenee/存在差异的原因 107
' P4 @4 r6 D+ G: f 10.3.2 Caution/应用的要点 107
$ x! }8 ]1 J/ T r 10.4 Top and bottom/顶端和底端 107
2 @' B! Z4 ^2 w. N" ? 10.4.1 Reasons for difference/存在差异的原因 1073 M3 L( n, K t/ X( K2 Q# L
10.5 Weave floats/组织浮线 108
' V, u- T( v, `5 F4 J4 o 10.6 Basic weaves/基本组织 108- d' B4 P/ e6 r6 m6 w
10.6.1 Plain weave/平纹组织 108
" I/ @. z) p2 B7 z9 s 10.6.2 Twill weave/斜纹组织 109
2 h& R7 a5 b4 C: {, A5 z I 10.6.3 Satin weave/缎纹组织 111. A3 [3 r- U* D; j
10.7 Fabric performance and characteristics/织物性能和参数 112
6 ~% _- \6 a. k' X2 g* M& |3 `2 ]+ H 10.7.1 Fabric width/幅宽 112
) o- Q* G: b4 Q/ D: N 10.7.2 Fabric weight/织物重量 112
. E7 z7 d' T4 H8 c4 a# ^% g& E 10.7.3 Fabric thickness/织物厚度 1133 t; H5 _* p2 F. _/ n5 Y
10.7.4 Fabric density/织物密度 113
0 P# Z& u# J5 [6 M- i4 y" Q 10.7.5 Fabric count/织物经纬密度 113
( v0 }( w6 v% v1 W- M t# W 10.7.6 Fabric defects/织物疵点 113
5 {* |, X4 S1 }5 P! j Questions/思考题 1130 ?8 W- W9 A$ m- c9 w. c% N. c& D
Chapter 11 Knitted Fabrics/针织物 114
R: {4 G1 n' }' z) k 11.1 Making of knitted fabric/针织物形成 1142 ~- P9 \: x" m3 X+ t4 \5 a
11.1.1 The forming of knitted stitches/线圈的形成 114
1 |/ i' _ [) |0 N 11.1.2 Types of knitted stitches/线圈的种类 1166 l; _7 a G: `4 n9 `2 I
11.2 Weft knits/纬编针织物 1177 ]4 a3 g6 z1 x& N# e0 z2 x( S
11.2.1 Jersey knit fabric/纬平针织物 117
' r. Q" {- Y8 Z: J 11.2.2 Rib knit fabric/罗纹针织物 118: C. ?2 T4 A& D2 W
11.2.3 Purl knit fabric/双反面针织物 1194 c" f5 z' E+ j6 K4 ]
11.2.4 Double knits/双面针织物 1204 W0 z$ |% H. S J' p
11.2.5 Full-fashioned knits/全成形针织物 120
( i# {% r2 f8 `9 |% o9 ? 11.3 Warp knits/经编针织物 121
$ I i7 T+ Y3 s' A 11.3.1 Tricot fabrics/特里科经编针织物 121
9 M# X7 ~* j4 D0 f. F 11.3.2 Raschel fabrics/拉舍尔经编针织物 1222 E+ m% c U, X
11.4 Performance and characteristics/性能和参数 122
% z8 K! i- w2 I9 ?1 r/ m; z Questions/思考题 123
$ u+ _4 W( [, U3 Y9 U# c: @ Chapter 12 Nonwoven Fabrics/非织造布 1247 t( X! G0 E, P* {2 ~4 I4 q: x, ]
12.1 Introduction/导论 124
* ^7 A$ U" b* Q6 E. C 12.2 Manufacturing methods/生产方法 125
* k, p/ R; O8 |. X( ^. ^ 12.2.1 Dry laid system/干法成网 125
6 @, [* f4 o1 W7 w; d 12.2.2 Wet laid system/湿法成网 125! B# `- o$ [0 K4 v. a: { j$ E
12.2.3 Polymer laid system/聚合物挤压法 125
: h6 ]' R0 s0 X% i 12.3 Various nonwovens/各种非织造布 125: `2 P9 P8 H6 d( q8 N M( N. r
12.3.1 Needle punched nonwovens/针刺法非织造布 125
; T' f" I3 @# T( z4 K 12.3.2 Bonded web nonwovens/黏合法非织造布 126
& w4 t5 N7 S% f) n, }5 P; B' ^- c- y8 d 12.3.3 Spunlaced nonwovens/射流喷网法非织造布 127
: C0 N [9 L/ D: i 12.3.4 Spunbonded nonwovens/纺粘法非织造布 128
0 V' g# r$ f, I6 _% G* M 12.3.5 Melt-blown nonwovens/熔喷法非织造布 129
" D$ l/ {1 _- @2 B0 B: F Questions/思考题 1294 S' D7 x3 ~& Q3 v$ W
Part Ⅴ Textile Testing/纺织品测试 130
0 e, b! B2 x* j" R A7 o2 P8 V Chapter 13 General Test Methods/常规测试方法 1305 G$ F: U5 o I; V
13.1 General fiber tests/纤维常规测试 130
, p, X+ g$ ?" Z8 e0 K 13.1.1 Fiber identification/纤维鉴别 130
8 Q0 c6 l* v6 P0 O 13.1.2 Fiber length/纤维长度 134; n3 O5 [( n1 U, s
13.1.3 Fiber fineness or linear density/纤维细度或线密度 135
5 ^$ M" g+ }8 O* N8 n @: Z B 13.1.4 Cross-sectional shape/截面形状 135
) C u8 @+ G- ]1 h 13.1.5 Crimp/卷曲 135, p! L ]) p" ~% _. D
13.1.6 Regain/回潮率 136& H9 L" K+ ~9 Y
13.1.7 Mechanical properties/机械性能 1368 d/ g; r& L9 i4 V1 r! K0 s
13.1.8 Chemical characteristics/化学性能 136
) \3 u7 X4 ?4 K: H4 c4 e 13.1.9 Surface characteristics/表面性能 136 J% [ P4 A& j$ V% G+ z
13.1.10 Density and specific gravity/密度和相对密度 137
6 i4 ~4 t w8 }, L3 D2 u9 @ 13.2 Special tests for natural fibers/天然纤维的测试 1372 V; z" }5 W) d5 ` Y2 J) f, r
13.2.1 Tests for cotton/棉纤维测试 137& K; f1 \4 E! C d: A# K0 L
13.2.2 Tests for wool/毛纤维测试 139$ J4 F! ^5 I4 ]+ g: j
13.3 Testing of tensile properties/拉伸性能测试 1406 L) w t$ Y: @3 p1 l
13.3.1 Description of tensile proprieties/拉伸性能的描述 1414 o3 p, n( A) e$ _, a1 R/ z
13.3.2 Fiber and yarn tensile testing/纤维和纱线拉伸性能的测试 1468 c2 m) w3 y3 C& i4 q7 N0 c
13.3.3 Fabric tensile testing/织物拉伸性能测试方法 147
8 E Q- R! x% d& x, E& h Questions/思考题 149 R, t) e3 N5 L5 Z! ^1 Z( D5 t
Chapter 14 Fabric Abrasion and Pilling/织物磨损与起球 150
8 ~- h- g: L/ y; l 14.1 Types of abrasion/磨损的类型 1507 t/ B$ _1 v- }+ O& }9 H
14.1.1 Abrasion between fabrics/织物间的磨损 150
" b6 m0 Z# Z* j. r 14.1.2 Abrasion between fabric and a nontextile surface/织物与非纤维制品表面磨损 1503 G- |7 [7 y' J" q! j$ z# u
14.1.3 Abrasion within fabric/织物内部磨损 151
) R2 q6 `$ f3 d# p 14.1.4 Abrasion by foreign materials within the fabric/与织物内部其他材料的磨损 151
: c5 p2 ^' G2 n/ U# N7 c5 G( G% i 14.2 Factors affecting fabric abrasion resistance/影响耐磨性能的因素 151
) K. l* [3 K) @( ]* M: h( ~ 14.2.1 Fabric properties/织物性能 151 }" }) B. Y: N: M; Q) ?
14.2.2 Other factors/其他因素 153% _8 ?8 W2 |3 }* W* v! a
14.3 Abrasion testing/磨损测试 154
' z& b3 E+ O' l i2 c 14.3.1 Visual comparison with an unabraded specimen/与未磨损样品视觉对比 154 }* I# S& T- ?/ a/ b8 e9 K3 l
14.3.2 Number of cycles to produce a hole/产生磨损破洞需要的摩擦圈数 154
9 l F: E9 h3 Y3 V 14.3.3 Change in a physical property/物理性能的变化 154' l, g/ _+ [, C+ m9 o2 p
14.3.4 Microscopic examination/显微镜观测 1550 W- h7 g( n, d( L8 q+ T, I1 e0 A* x
14.4 Aesthetics of abrasion and wear/穿着和磨损对美感的影响 155
, s/ V! l1 {) V+ l7 E X 14.4.1 Color changes caused by abrasion/磨损引起的颜色变化 155
. g1 n, M8 N- J& H, P" q 14.4.2 Pilling/起球 156, z5 r3 f; x( i8 ?+ q
Questions/思考题 157: ]2 t( [+ s& B+ _
Chapter 15 Fabric Hand and Drape/织物手感与悬垂 158
7 i/ \( b+ e+ t4 E 15.1 Fabric hand/织物手感 1587 @: M) g5 O) D
15.2 Fabric drape/织物悬垂 159$ a! D* W+ l; a
15.3 Measurement of hand and drape/手感与悬垂的评价 161
+ p) l- _5 l7 @( X" }; k 15.3.1 Subjective evaluation/主观评定法 1615 z4 z# [5 u& ~/ ^, w! `
15.3.2 Quantitative measurement/定量评定法 162
1 }9 |2 h$ c/ h! T, q( E' x 15.3.3 Kawabata evaluation system/KES评定法 1631 L$ j! ~. S9 S
Questions/思考题 163
# z( {/ i+ B2 G1 b- M6 k( E Chapter 16 Fabric Colorfastness/织物染色牢度 164
6 B+ S4 ?7 v8 c- S 16.1 Evaluation of color and colorfastness/颜色和染色牢度评定方法 164
( S$ ~; ]9 w- n0 B 16.2 Colorfastness tests/染色牢度测试 164
1 B) g' _! B: K+ ]0 a( r% {4 v4 Y 16.2.1 Colorfastness to crocking/耐摩擦色牢度 164+ _4 `; ~5 v) u- a
16.2.2 Colorfastness to laundering and bleaching/耐洗涤和耐漂白色牢 165% q3 v! P- T/ |* K: S4 o$ d
16.2.3 Colorfastness to drycleaning/耐干洗色牢度 166
5 }$ ^/ E( L9 {; W% W 16.2.4 Colorfastness to perspiration/耐汗渍色牢度 166
' {( p- H: \: H9 ^ 16.2.5 Colorfastness to water/耐水浸色牢度 166; R( N; X. O5 Y9 I' @
16.2.6 Colorfastness to light/耐光照色牢度 167
8 D1 `% N0 T( w7 a% [3 w: V6 [ 16.2.7 Colorfastness to atmospheric contaminants/耐空气污染色牢度 168
0 V: D. \2 E3 ~6 m1 b: E Questions/思考题 168! ^' }/ [0 n5 b4 n6 F0 n6 S
Chapter 17 Fabric Flammability/织物可燃性 169
. O! Q! D! x0 V% s: F1 G1 E 17.1 Flammability standards/可燃性标准 169
' P. [' L8 J- U/ S 17.2 Properties affecting flammability/影响可燃性的因素 169" S+ q6 m9 H( U$ c: a9 t& O& U
17.3 Flammability testing/可燃性测试 171- M9 c! L+ S% `; D, x4 `
17.3.1 Forty-five degree angle test/45°燃烧测试法 171
+ ^: k8 Z7 z. ^. w7 N3 j 17.3.2 Vertical flame tests/垂直燃烧测试法 172
9 c1 R+ w& r7 X' i$ A% F 17.3.3 Carpet testing/地毯测试 172$ M. x% q: A4 p8 E
17.3.4 Cigarette tests/卷烟点燃测试 172) f8 d* `$ b# X/ x
17.3.5 Other standard flammability tests/其他可燃性测试 173
, u N4 |6 H$ I4 @* ?4 u Questions/思考题 173
% B: c0 r; U, K+ K7 D" s Chapter 18 Comfort of Textiles/纺织品舒适性 174
3 V* Y+ B# j5 k: w2 i 18.1 Physical phenomena affecting thermal comfort/影响热舒适性能的物理现象 174
) T6 u- R8 F+ L# E! C. `! A 18.1.1 Heat transfer/热传递 1740 a( I. j' B! a7 T; r7 d* ^
18.1.2 Moisture transfer/湿传递 175* x# P) I! D5 L) r7 }( M2 S% c5 M
18.1.3 Water resistance/抗水性 175
7 _) e( s" V) p) x' t 18.1.4 Air transfer/透气性 176
: Q) |4 o# H7 v+ o 18.1.5 Porosity and cover factor/多孔性和覆盖系数 176
, V/ l, g$ k) P2 @ 18.1.6 Electrostatic propensity/静电 177& [$ [; |$ {, V! z
18.2 Evaluations of textile properties related to comfort/与舒适性相关的纺织品性能评价 177
- [7 M4 L; {& s( Z4 j& Q) |2 g2 ?/ Q 18.2.1 Heat transfer/热传递 178
0 ?% E1 m7 V! G3 x; _+ ~ 18.2.2 Moisture properties/湿传递性能 179% t0 E9 E; @$ A1 ~% s. g; H
18.2.3 Air permeability/透气性 1797 |: D7 d4 J0 f& i6 Q: v
18.2.4 Porosity/孔隙率 180
$ c) N, w) H. M 18.2.5 Electrostatic tests/静电测试 180 T( X; s6 X2 \( K/ n
Questions/思考题 180
7 t6 R( m8 M# ^! W GAppendix/附录 181& Q9 C) U& ~5 q% O3 F: a) o" [) m
AATCC:AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS/美国纺织化学家与染色家协会 181* O m9 r6 w# c) G+ X" O: W& {; I
ASTM:AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR TESTING AND MATERIALS/美国材料试验学会 184! ]7 F) C2 A3 t! x, Z( P
Vocabulary/词汇表 189
* z: p2 ^. V& `References/参考文献 197; P; k8 a( u1 J9 Z
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