
纺织材料学(双语教材),刘妍,熊磊,PDF。普通高等教育“十一五”国家级规划教材(本科),纺织工程专业双语教材,电子目录,14M。
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内容提要# w3 d$ E: p# y1 F. T0 ~
本书讨论了纤维、纱线与织物(包括机织物、针织物及非织造布)的结构、机械性能、物理性能及使用性能。涉及的纤维势括天然纤维(如棉、毛、麻、丝等)、传统化学纤维及新型化学纤维。本书同时介绍了纤维、纱线和织物的各种标准测试方法(包括国际上常用的ASTM, AATCC及GB等方法),并讨论了与各种测试方法有关的测试原理及对测试结果的影响因素。
( I$ d/ G# X, A" L" Z本书可供高等纺织院校纺织、服装相关专业的本科生及研究生作为《纺织材料学》的双语教材或专业英语教材,也可供其他专业师生、纺织贸易专业人员和科研及生产单位的技术人员参考。8 h/ p5 l" M. _1 N2 l) S
目录. U( I1 L0 _. h8 n7 |2 |
Part Ⅰ An Introduction to Textiles/纺织入门 18) `6 k0 p' h. b9 a* X6 i
Chapter 1 Introduction/介绍 18* |1 k! w0 a+ D+ o
1.1 ASTM Standard Terminology Relating to Textiles/ASTM纺织标准术语 18
8 a2 Q4 {! w: r/ @4 E1 d& W 1.2 Fiber history/纤维历史 26
" G+ i. w' Y$ r# ~ ~ 1.2.1 Natural fibers/天然纤维 26
- P& L' J& O5 }3 ^- F2 S# l5 b 1.2.2 Man-made fibers/化学纤维 27
- P1 k- B4 `7 N U) f. @' f Questions/思考题 30
9 a+ N* Y6 [; ]; v' E* `! G- rPart Ⅱ Textile Fibers/纺织纤维 32
+ T# |9 g1 g; @% j Chapter 2 Natural Cellulosic Fibers/天然纤维素纤维 327 h; k* P6 s9 Z3 E" x
2.1 Cotton/棉 332 C( A' I* ^. [ Y$ ]0 {3 D' [
2.1.1 Nature of cotton/棉花的种类 33
! z* u1 ?/ R1 b" F( v 2.1.2 Classification/分类 34# s: j& p3 |6 a0 i; {
2.1.3 Growth and structure of cotton/棉纤维的生长与结构 34% s( K+ R/ P2 l. ~; L; y
2.1.4 Maturity/成熟度 36( k, j0 _! {& W
2.1.5 Cotton properties/棉纤维的性能 38
4 u8 }/ I# W' i 2.1.6 Cotton classification/棉花分级 39
: C6 X9 Y6 W' A/ ~9 @ f) s 2.2 Bast fibers/韧皮纤维 40
6 p5 w8 m% V5 {$ N 2.2.1 Flax (linen)/亚麻,亚麻织物 41 }9 Z( U1 e% Q9 G
2.2.2 Ramie/苎麻 43: B7 m3 y8 _* z& X9 s
2.2.3 Hemp/汉麻 44) D1 `2 i$ m3 D& ?/ d
2.2.4 Jute/黄麻 44
' k: U. T3 @5 j8 D Questions/思考题 45
: O% c+ Z. ^$ U- b) }+ i; R2 A Chapter 3 Natural Protein Fibers/天然蛋白质纤维 463 |4 f& {# k9 k: j3 G( |+ }
3.1 Wool/绵羊毛 46
; w8 H" _+ |$ w7 e1 ]# q, [ 3.1.1 Wool production and history/羊毛生产和历史 46: i6 C+ J. K) ~
3.1.2 Wool grading/羊毛分级 47+ u/ P v- O: h4 D+ t& M" i+ \
3.1.3 Wool structure/羊毛结构 473 z* I* w( o! h: N$ v1 v9 q
3.1.4 Wool properties/羊毛性能 48. Q7 o: Q# `1 K$ z4 m! X, r; ]
3.2 Specialty animal fibers/特种动物毛 51. g* n4 d+ P4 {+ X$ c& r! j
3.3 Silk/丝 52
r( s8 |$ M0 o5 y4 W' J Questions/思考题 54+ e; s; H) ~; d
Chapter 4 Man-made Fibers/化学纤维 553 ]+ H2 H6 m4 d0 e# V1 @2 A
4.1 Manufacturing processing of fiber/纤维生产工艺 55* @: d7 t2 Y! p9 u" G6 ?) s
4.1.1 Wet spinning/湿法纺丝 56
& p s8 F, ~7 @8 X8 ?3 _* a+ b5 K, L' @ 4.1.2 Dry spinning/干法纺丝 56
# \8 @" K1 x8 e) H4 r8 H0 G 4.1.3 Melt spinning/熔体法纺丝 567 t' W% k$ B5 Y
4.1.4 Gel spinning/凝胶纺丝 57
' I# J+ @, U9 T 4.2 Regenerated fibers/再生纤维 57
8 S1 D( [8 |: }8 h/ N \8 \; n0 b c 4.2.1 Acetate/醋酯纤维 573 M0 R8 T. s9 K- I$ Q. Z. [
4.2.2 Triacetate/三醋酯纤维 59* Q! r* `8 a' R& |5 X9 V
4.2.3 Viscose fibers/粘胶纤维 59; L( ?- R/ X% r$ @, E* D9 n
4.3 Synthetic fibers/合成纤维 60
, \) a& x0 ]# f- H0 H) M# ^3 I 4.3.1 Acrylic/腈纶 601 Z( ?" r$ T, {) ?; i+ W# A' H9 S
4.3.2 Modacrylic/改性腈纶 61
/ c. {1 k5 ~0 Y5 {1 \) m 4.3.3 Nylon/锦纶 61/ z3 i2 t3 m) y+ B6 d" r
4.3.4 Polyester/涤纶 62
& o. d: h( k5 p) v 4.3.5 PBI/聚苯并咪唑纤维 63) _9 P2 E e8 S1 V8 {" s; K1 c
4.3.6 Vinal/聚乙烯醇纤维 63
: a. t, J5 h7 x R 4.3.7 Olefin/聚烯烃纤维 63
A( B7 l; }; P7 Q2 o6 S 4.3.8 Aramid/芳纶 64$ [; [8 P/ V! o2 g
4.3.9 Lycra/莱卡 645 T1 m' `8 l% U# i1 h
4.4 Other man-made fibers/其他化学纤维 66
- B. k8 V0 ]8 k& i; i( f1 x 4.4.1 Glass/玻璃纤维 662 @) G: M* J" {( t% y9 w4 H
4.4.2 Metallic/金属纤维 67, ~' U, v8 w: ~/ E8 t3 m
Questions/思考题 67. j5 T5 ^$ H. y/ X: w4 i
Chapter 5 New Fibers/新型纤维 689 H% F M; l! q3 u+ ]( a; V5 e5 B+ \
5.1 Carbon fibers/碳纤维 68
, T6 S3 m! I" a 5.2 Fluorocarbon/氟碳纤维 68
& P" s$ x$ J: \& [4 n( w9 J 5.3 Lyocell fibers(Tencel)/莱塞尔纤维 68
: C& r" g3 B2 K% ~( a" \2 Y: A2 j ] 5.4 High-wet-modulus fibers/高湿模量纤维 69
( |! y; G/ F/ n) q 5.4.1 Modal fibers/莫代尔纤维 69
; w0 E* j8 o# q. p; e/ M; `2 W 5.4.2 Richcel/丽赛纤维 70
8 r! m+ i1 q. Q W8 x9 N" U 5.5 Soybean protein composite fibers/大豆蛋白复合纤维 70
* ?9 @% f6 F9 y6 z) w 5.6 PLA fiber/聚左旋乳酸纤维 71* t7 z5 e4 e0 \5 H( F/ f
5.7 Heterogenous fibers/复合纤维 717 b2 f" r y9 e' o( C9 l
5.7.1 Bicomponent or multicomponent/双组分或多组分 721 y8 [8 ~; X( _; o2 \1 I! _
5.7.2 Biconstituent or multiconstituent/双成分或多成分 73
" v E- _( o/ }1 [, e1 M 5.7.3 Matrix or matrix-fibril/基质型纤维 731 L# y, O* c5 _# S5 S# `/ m
5.8 Differential fibers/差别化纤维 74
C# u/ H0 ~3 @6 ? 5.9 Functional fibers/功能性纤维 74
/ F$ A2 F' h% C 5.10 High performance fibers/高性能纤维 746 p+ T# ^* ], c* W! [: g
Questions/思考题 74
0 [! l( }( p- F& e* o: S Chapter 6 The Property of Absorbing Moisture/吸湿性 75
, c9 l# Y. @4 ]) b' C 6.1 Orientation and crystallization/取向与结晶 75
3 [1 O* i$ m* o. U! t& ]9 ^ 6.2 Moisture sorption/吸湿性 75
: w9 W3 i6 B9 l. u 6.2.1 Regain and moisture content/回潮率与含水率 75
' R1 g8 ^# ~! Z+ Q/ W. S+ _7 F 6.2.2 Relation between regain and relative humidity/回潮率与相对湿度的关系 75
1 s8 w! m h0 ^* G 6.2.3 Comparison of various materials/不同材料吸湿性的对比 76
# M) f( L' C; ~# l7 t" F* H 6.2.4 Theories of moisture sorption/吸湿理论 78
2 C% e2 C5 U- Y2 B' y% a Questions/思考题 801 @7 T8 H7 x3 h5 {! s6 u
Chapter 7 Other Physical Properties of Textile Fibers/纤维的其他物理性能 81% x: y# }: z! c0 L/ s
7.1 Electronic properties/电学性能 81
; V+ \7 z- _' @2 a) p V) E 7.1.1 Definitions/定义 81
* O: c! ]- y, Q, w( K 7.2 Optical properties/光学性能 82
; |5 ~" ?* D7 D# }" ]9 G+ G 7.3 Thermal properties/热学性能 831 k2 ?) m5 ?6 e, a
7.3.1 Thermal parameters/热力学参数 83) E o8 s6 N' q8 {5 N
7.3.2 A comparison of temperature effects/温度效应比较 83
7 |, {3 |+ ^/ d' P, e2 q& P( n Questions/思考题 83/ A' p# n' N3 l
Part Ⅲ Textile Yarns/纺织纱线 84; |8 V# \. m. T& w/ T2 \
Chapter 8 Yarn Processing and Construction/纱线制造与结构 84* U: D$ F: w) J8 `+ {/ l
8.1 Spun yarns/短纤纱 85
+ U& M" Q; u2 c2 l6 w: _ 8.2 Filament yarns/长丝纱 85
$ I7 k/ x0 i& r/ Y! ^$ j 8.3 Methods of yarn processing/纺纱方法 85
7 o! i. |* F7 X 8.3.1 Ring-spinning/环锭纺 86" _+ w) {6 j- W* ]% H
8.3.2 New methods of yarn processing/新型纺纱方法 86
* j3 c, C+ F6 O! d+ R) d% [ 8.4 Single and ply yarns/单纱和股线 89
* i9 D6 g/ K4 T! g$ s 8.5 Special types of yarn/特种纱线 90
4 t: M$ j7 R4 w4 W 8.5.1 Fancy yarns/花式纱 90
$ {' J% q7 e; H. T2 p) M( U 8.5.2 Stretch yarns/弹力纱 91& u L" h& g/ I6 C; G
8.5.3 Textured yarns 变形纱线 91
5 {: o! g3 l9 z- M+ Y7 F 8.6 Blends and mixtures yarns/纱线混纺与混用 92
i& X9 W0 B; S6 \3 K" f Questions/思考题 93
: J( ^! j4 g" l" K, ?2 \8 ] Chapter 9 Yarn Properties/纱线性能 94
% m$ s% I+ o! V% q7 }% I1 \6 u M 9.1 Yarn number/纱线细度 94
/ ~7 f7 [5 z3 V; m7 x5 U; `* r 9.1.1 Denier system/旦数 94% Z/ [6 c+ o5 @) G# X7 @( G
9.1.2 Yarn count system/纱线英制支数 941 ~' _: Y# V) E( O2 x) c& V3 y
9.1.3 Tex system/线密度 95
2 U7 G! p: N. M! W2 |2 |8 {! c8 ` 9.1.4 Metric numbering system/公制支数 95* P9 f/ s( M2 Z6 v# L
9.1.5 Conversion in different systems/不同系统之间的换算 95
, u: y$ D: D& P* z' b: D 9.2 Ply yarn counts and singles equivalent/股线支数与单纱支数 95
% h0 ~0 p. j% Z% G* J4 x 9.3 Yarn twist/纱线捻度 96& Y$ W$ p$ N% l0 }- \7 n0 T
9.4 Yarn hairiness/纱线毛羽 97
# j3 p1 t7 ]6 ^- g2 U 9.4.1 Hairiness test method/毛羽测试方法 98 ]/ V9 `4 ^$ C+ ? N+ U
9.4.2 Factors affecting hairiness/影响毛羽的因素 98
% f' {0 }' c% V+ T 9.5 Yarn unevenness/纱线不匀 99& ~4 n n+ j8 n# w t6 }
9.5.1 Test of yarn unevenness/纱线不匀的测试 991 q/ ~* ?5 |3 ~" P0 e
9.5.2 Reasons for yarn unevenness/纱线不匀的原因 100( w1 o; I6 s) v
9.6 Classification of yarn quality/纱线质量分析 100( b- t! f. j4 q. g) T0 ~( K; d
Questions/思考题 100/ m) W& ^1 p: ]; ~& p& L, U/ B
Part Ⅳ Textile Fabrics/织物 102. | Z% p! a9 n+ n
Chapter 10 Woven Fabrics/机织物 1028 M2 k( a) q5 t1 C2 Q& b, n5 q" N# M( F
10.1 Making woven fabrics/织制机织物 1020 f; P( \2 v( ?3 a* E
10.1.1 The loom/织机 1029 s* D3 N. z( D5 C5 C" \+ B
10.1.2 Loom type/织机类型 104
p/ N, Y; G# Z4 W. H: U5 l 10.1.3 Loom motions/织机运动 104( b, j/ S" c$ G4 ^' S
10.1.4 Electronics in weaving/电子技术在织机中的应用 105
- ~& G( a0 q/ {9 n" W; o( Q 10.1.5 The selvage/布边 105
$ ]3 t8 C1 D( m7 L 10.2 Warp yarns and filling yarns/经纱和纬纱 105
2 |4 T7 Z" r& Y, l1 z' q) N 10.2.1 Identification/鉴别 106
6 a; g3 _! V* l3 T1 p- E6 w5 S 10.3 Face and back/正面与反面 106
7 ~% B6 v$ ]7 V% o 10.3.1 Reasons for differenee/存在差异的原因 107$ D( ~ \" h/ s( }' L! n
10.3.2 Caution/应用的要点 107; J8 C( \! z7 j; D( v" v+ t C
10.4 Top and bottom/顶端和底端 107
' a( f0 s; t" t4 I; G: K0 G# U5 }9 M* ? 10.4.1 Reasons for difference/存在差异的原因 107
( e9 V- A* q; D# U$ ~( {& u6 W) m- M 10.5 Weave floats/组织浮线 108
( d( b; e* @* z5 A: j' s* Z9 U 10.6 Basic weaves/基本组织 108
3 ? r: r; t% L# O9 Y 10.6.1 Plain weave/平纹组织 1080 e/ V+ c7 I- h7 a: j5 u1 |
10.6.2 Twill weave/斜纹组织 1095 y. ~8 ]. p/ v$ p5 H7 X$ \
10.6.3 Satin weave/缎纹组织 1110 n: Y: b) K6 k, U9 g
10.7 Fabric performance and characteristics/织物性能和参数 112
2 ?3 v" h* G' g1 p3 o4 d4 Q 10.7.1 Fabric width/幅宽 112" k+ {( Y! X7 M, y
10.7.2 Fabric weight/织物重量 112
* f$ Z3 g1 E5 l% B6 w! S5 Q 10.7.3 Fabric thickness/织物厚度 113
$ i0 O8 a3 H* a6 J$ S q7 B$ S 10.7.4 Fabric density/织物密度 1134 |6 T* @: R) ?1 k* O
10.7.5 Fabric count/织物经纬密度 113& o8 V$ W; h% b! u5 j9 p
10.7.6 Fabric defects/织物疵点 113
, G5 _2 ]( b1 E, B# G, ^ W% h! ~ Questions/思考题 113
7 z2 U4 _9 c! v/ e7 \ Chapter 11 Knitted Fabrics/针织物 1140 ]% j' \4 i4 I3 L9 g
11.1 Making of knitted fabric/针织物形成 1146 W3 r9 `. G* n
11.1.1 The forming of knitted stitches/线圈的形成 1143 ?2 ?6 O+ n* `$ b; I9 U7 H7 |5 j
11.1.2 Types of knitted stitches/线圈的种类 116
6 `0 f6 {" L. y! [6 p: _; o0 h! V$ V% \6 ~ 11.2 Weft knits/纬编针织物 117
+ H' W7 h1 F, a, B4 a 11.2.1 Jersey knit fabric/纬平针织物 117
9 |% N! W* P! [6 ^+ U8 q! q 11.2.2 Rib knit fabric/罗纹针织物 118
2 \9 F8 N4 r7 j: S; F6 O6 _ 11.2.3 Purl knit fabric/双反面针织物 1199 k5 F0 S$ t+ a) Q5 Q$ @8 u
11.2.4 Double knits/双面针织物 120+ H3 C' a7 J! x
11.2.5 Full-fashioned knits/全成形针织物 120" j4 ?# k M: m. o" R" j
11.3 Warp knits/经编针织物 121
1 k6 \* r2 M$ Y/ j 11.3.1 Tricot fabrics/特里科经编针织物 121
9 |" s. F/ A/ p/ x 11.3.2 Raschel fabrics/拉舍尔经编针织物 122! H6 t3 {) H7 K
11.4 Performance and characteristics/性能和参数 122
0 }9 t+ f7 U" ^) z$ e8 W Questions/思考题 123
3 C& g1 e! O) @8 t Chapter 12 Nonwoven Fabrics/非织造布 1247 u7 J7 Z5 x6 E" w
12.1 Introduction/导论 124
8 f6 h/ r/ p5 {8 R 12.2 Manufacturing methods/生产方法 125
2 K. Y) x# {( N* s. W9 x+ l3 B 12.2.1 Dry laid system/干法成网 125
" n8 ]0 j& Z( {. p, w) P: [( L 12.2.2 Wet laid system/湿法成网 125; v9 R; O/ P7 Y4 f" O& c
12.2.3 Polymer laid system/聚合物挤压法 125
5 |5 U2 v1 S- f 12.3 Various nonwovens/各种非织造布 125) S, V3 P( D' O$ _, h9 l2 B
12.3.1 Needle punched nonwovens/针刺法非织造布 1250 u! p" w, K# Q' ^, i) R8 i5 K
12.3.2 Bonded web nonwovens/黏合法非织造布 126 t4 P, W* N' G4 H: y% A) S: O! }
12.3.3 Spunlaced nonwovens/射流喷网法非织造布 127$ O9 }! W6 [+ F! ^) }
12.3.4 Spunbonded nonwovens/纺粘法非织造布 128. Z( H; K9 K5 f) o9 U/ H$ ~5 |
12.3.5 Melt-blown nonwovens/熔喷法非织造布 1294 b0 J, ~$ w6 y7 L
Questions/思考题 1296 u8 l+ {: ^$ l& N7 g
Part Ⅴ Textile Testing/纺织品测试 130
+ v. g; h2 F/ V4 z0 q% ?. `8 O Chapter 13 General Test Methods/常规测试方法 130: {) }: _4 ^- I7 X3 O4 ^& J# r
13.1 General fiber tests/纤维常规测试 130
( z& H! X, u5 x/ t( j5 r( [4 [ 13.1.1 Fiber identification/纤维鉴别 130
- x1 K+ m9 w- t! M1 b3 h8 t 13.1.2 Fiber length/纤维长度 134
' |6 |2 i( Z& [- \ 13.1.3 Fiber fineness or linear density/纤维细度或线密度 135 O! e' }$ w7 z0 B& d! d
13.1.4 Cross-sectional shape/截面形状 1354 q/ v' M! p2 W/ `, Z
13.1.5 Crimp/卷曲 135
# M/ \- _1 R R$ A. X6 n. c% _ 13.1.6 Regain/回潮率 136! f( M8 K! x( }2 p8 ?3 H9 P
13.1.7 Mechanical properties/机械性能 136
* t% I# n& y1 ]' I9 t1 ~ 13.1.8 Chemical characteristics/化学性能 136
/ r K( |4 [7 d2 ^: k 13.1.9 Surface characteristics/表面性能 136( s P8 Q! G: S: T# h# f/ h- g3 c) [
13.1.10 Density and specific gravity/密度和相对密度 137
9 n4 _0 F b2 |& r. p: J* p 13.2 Special tests for natural fibers/天然纤维的测试 137
' U+ D: J0 x& X( B2 {0 | 13.2.1 Tests for cotton/棉纤维测试 1372 b* I F& x, w: U2 a3 j
13.2.2 Tests for wool/毛纤维测试 1390 u Q) Z" E; s( O
13.3 Testing of tensile properties/拉伸性能测试 140 w+ Q* U* s7 G$ D. M% N/ I
13.3.1 Description of tensile proprieties/拉伸性能的描述 141# \% I- ]1 z, y' C$ e! G% P
13.3.2 Fiber and yarn tensile testing/纤维和纱线拉伸性能的测试 146
$ m: h5 L U; L! F5 x 13.3.3 Fabric tensile testing/织物拉伸性能测试方法 147
( [- k2 k( S. i: v8 r! J/ R4 _ Questions/思考题 149$ @; r( D. {8 h
Chapter 14 Fabric Abrasion and Pilling/织物磨损与起球 150
4 Z2 c! ^0 q3 {' n 14.1 Types of abrasion/磨损的类型 150# I' O2 s7 I) q1 ~
14.1.1 Abrasion between fabrics/织物间的磨损 150
: B- v g9 D8 z6 N 14.1.2 Abrasion between fabric and a nontextile surface/织物与非纤维制品表面磨损 150
- Y0 }" q6 v* O& v* c# I 14.1.3 Abrasion within fabric/织物内部磨损 1515 R0 o1 a" X" m* q( g# D
14.1.4 Abrasion by foreign materials within the fabric/与织物内部其他材料的磨损 1514 o& q: W/ n& q
14.2 Factors affecting fabric abrasion resistance/影响耐磨性能的因素 151. |/ D3 ?9 S+ K g3 W/ y
14.2.1 Fabric properties/织物性能 1514 ^& B p; N( S8 G+ G2 @
14.2.2 Other factors/其他因素 153
$ }7 G9 g$ m& J9 [2 O# G( O 14.3 Abrasion testing/磨损测试 154# y0 Y% O$ R4 u3 }3 j
14.3.1 Visual comparison with an unabraded specimen/与未磨损样品视觉对比 1540 n$ u0 h! r5 Q) V
14.3.2 Number of cycles to produce a hole/产生磨损破洞需要的摩擦圈数 154( k+ o& e3 z5 B0 s
14.3.3 Change in a physical property/物理性能的变化 154
/ R8 P( Q t3 M$ q 14.3.4 Microscopic examination/显微镜观测 155
: c G9 T4 ^5 V, N, M. @! e6 R 14.4 Aesthetics of abrasion and wear/穿着和磨损对美感的影响 1557 y% i+ I2 i* `( {+ R6 D
14.4.1 Color changes caused by abrasion/磨损引起的颜色变化 155# \$ h1 ?; T' {: t# I
14.4.2 Pilling/起球 156
- j3 A1 ?( A3 C Questions/思考题 157
. Z% U _: d, |" @ Chapter 15 Fabric Hand and Drape/织物手感与悬垂 158
: P& |3 D. ] Z5 c8 u# r3 s5 b 15.1 Fabric hand/织物手感 158+ \* C6 V }4 v: d p7 w
15.2 Fabric drape/织物悬垂 1593 V' N+ `( v5 v7 i& q
15.3 Measurement of hand and drape/手感与悬垂的评价 1619 B; l8 [7 f- l9 n. g+ i6 D( M
15.3.1 Subjective evaluation/主观评定法 161
9 c- [7 w' u9 O, t' V# G1 \" `$ U 15.3.2 Quantitative measurement/定量评定法 162: `4 S. z f$ ?
15.3.3 Kawabata evaluation system/KES评定法 163
1 m$ |' t( v! A- M4 Q Questions/思考题 163
& ]0 p/ Z' N, M8 ^3 h% D Chapter 16 Fabric Colorfastness/织物染色牢度 1640 S0 F( C2 X. W' y' w) I' j, J
16.1 Evaluation of color and colorfastness/颜色和染色牢度评定方法 164
5 R* M; M7 h$ v& z; H 16.2 Colorfastness tests/染色牢度测试 164
# S) N7 a# t, ]$ C4 d- c 16.2.1 Colorfastness to crocking/耐摩擦色牢度 164
0 m7 w2 q C: m# g 16.2.2 Colorfastness to laundering and bleaching/耐洗涤和耐漂白色牢 165" Q: b+ d {+ B3 m9 R7 r, z
16.2.3 Colorfastness to drycleaning/耐干洗色牢度 166
! e/ v+ s4 A) U; Q" z 16.2.4 Colorfastness to perspiration/耐汗渍色牢度 1663 D8 L: L* a5 l5 I" h6 U2 p6 i
16.2.5 Colorfastness to water/耐水浸色牢度 166/ G7 K& V) Y; Q4 X# H3 w* W0 H' K
16.2.6 Colorfastness to light/耐光照色牢度 167, z* R+ ^9 N' s C& W, m0 h+ }; Q" s
16.2.7 Colorfastness to atmospheric contaminants/耐空气污染色牢度 168
% ]8 l' `4 |2 |' [2 e Questions/思考题 1688 U, ]1 f1 P3 x. ^! D
Chapter 17 Fabric Flammability/织物可燃性 169
9 M4 ^, x' I J+ J$ }6 J# x 17.1 Flammability standards/可燃性标准 169# u- B. N, J1 X. H6 W3 g) V- M
17.2 Properties affecting flammability/影响可燃性的因素 169
$ V/ ?3 w" n0 F! M d+ X- X 17.3 Flammability testing/可燃性测试 171
+ B; L1 w. s/ o 17.3.1 Forty-five degree angle test/45°燃烧测试法 171& u: Y! [) u0 |5 a3 y
17.3.2 Vertical flame tests/垂直燃烧测试法 1726 |% p. [# k8 U4 P$ ~3 x/ _. t u9 x5 o
17.3.3 Carpet testing/地毯测试 172
. V, n* D1 _' I/ n5 ^* f 17.3.4 Cigarette tests/卷烟点燃测试 172( ~& T! W/ ?( f( B, u
17.3.5 Other standard flammability tests/其他可燃性测试 1735 y( e) ~: B# U0 y" V
Questions/思考题 173
2 q" g$ j4 {1 b7 `" Y+ ]- p1 g Chapter 18 Comfort of Textiles/纺织品舒适性 174
, [$ h3 B. L6 |5 O0 P& a 18.1 Physical phenomena affecting thermal comfort/影响热舒适性能的物理现象 174
+ B; W4 r# B: [2 a! Z, z% }* R% ` 18.1.1 Heat transfer/热传递 1742 Y0 p/ N9 P- K( p6 ^2 {0 T0 t& w
18.1.2 Moisture transfer/湿传递 175
' b! k* J; r& P& B/ T3 I1 v* _" O' R( r 18.1.3 Water resistance/抗水性 175
9 V- [4 V1 u8 O8 S" x8 K 18.1.4 Air transfer/透气性 176! O9 L) ~: J- B) }$ y, g
18.1.5 Porosity and cover factor/多孔性和覆盖系数 176
+ ?0 d9 \. [% ]% {8 [6 H3 C9 w 18.1.6 Electrostatic propensity/静电 177+ P+ N( \9 q5 W
18.2 Evaluations of textile properties related to comfort/与舒适性相关的纺织品性能评价 177
/ }6 q% L1 Z( @2 V+ _& P 18.2.1 Heat transfer/热传递 178! s$ _, W- c+ f' W' U
18.2.2 Moisture properties/湿传递性能 179
! k/ @+ g" v6 {' ^ 18.2.3 Air permeability/透气性 1792 D l& V/ g$ i1 P
18.2.4 Porosity/孔隙率 180
* z0 G. L5 J v6 ^ 18.2.5 Electrostatic tests/静电测试 1804 i% e; `5 O0 A' s7 r, i) N1 ^
Questions/思考题 180( q/ y' {$ S# T* q! z0 o, K
Appendix/附录 181. X# M g: Q. q* }; {3 w9 U( ? [: _
AATCC:AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS/美国纺织化学家与染色家协会 181! @$ Y: N7 \2 M+ O! d( h
ASTM:AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR TESTING AND MATERIALS/美国材料试验学会 184
/ t& P6 S7 l% o( R# BVocabulary/词汇表 189
- T0 C) t; j6 O+ d3 M/ p# UReferences/参考文献 197
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