
纺织材料学(双语教材),刘妍,熊磊,PDF。普通高等教育“十一五”国家级规划教材(本科),纺织工程专业双语教材,电子目录,14M。. t# Q' `3 ]5 ?6 j
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内容提要
' z# y; \! I- T5 v本书讨论了纤维、纱线与织物(包括机织物、针织物及非织造布)的结构、机械性能、物理性能及使用性能。涉及的纤维势括天然纤维(如棉、毛、麻、丝等)、传统化学纤维及新型化学纤维。本书同时介绍了纤维、纱线和织物的各种标准测试方法(包括国际上常用的ASTM, AATCC及GB等方法),并讨论了与各种测试方法有关的测试原理及对测试结果的影响因素。
, o8 e: e' a6 c" k+ d" j本书可供高等纺织院校纺织、服装相关专业的本科生及研究生作为《纺织材料学》的双语教材或专业英语教材,也可供其他专业师生、纺织贸易专业人员和科研及生产单位的技术人员参考。8 w8 d2 d, ?, i
目录8 M! b0 n) [: h- `9 t! ^
Part Ⅰ An Introduction to Textiles/纺织入门 182 [! U* q* |# x% \* J
Chapter 1 Introduction/介绍 18) t* i/ [6 B; C' I* T5 w
1.1 ASTM Standard Terminology Relating to Textiles/ASTM纺织标准术语 183 v2 w. t+ B; Y4 ^) \
1.2 Fiber history/纤维历史 26( k# \! o" W5 k- e( H
1.2.1 Natural fibers/天然纤维 26
2 o. h9 L2 ]3 K: A6 D& [7 I3 H 1.2.2 Man-made fibers/化学纤维 271 T( ^1 A: b V( Q9 U, u& K/ c
Questions/思考题 30
3 W7 C8 l* h7 R2 b S" ZPart Ⅱ Textile Fibers/纺织纤维 32& ^% V9 l4 Z( M( H. H
Chapter 2 Natural Cellulosic Fibers/天然纤维素纤维 32
( V! ^" {& R4 a1 o 2.1 Cotton/棉 33
* ]- R. H. Q& p+ G2 H 2.1.1 Nature of cotton/棉花的种类 33
2 f$ J f/ Y( ]! Z$ N5 v, O, l# o 2.1.2 Classification/分类 341 `: A( z. G& p( V. {3 }
2.1.3 Growth and structure of cotton/棉纤维的生长与结构 34
/ I9 s/ W9 Z+ N8 U! V 2.1.4 Maturity/成熟度 369 K8 \. i3 P7 r3 }) d
2.1.5 Cotton properties/棉纤维的性能 382 s+ y# D$ c) n5 ?+ P
2.1.6 Cotton classification/棉花分级 39
0 y0 L# L# w7 W t& X) x 2.2 Bast fibers/韧皮纤维 40! C7 J9 Q, z1 k( P6 @5 N
2.2.1 Flax (linen)/亚麻,亚麻织物 41" p0 H: I. S& X# [* b% V0 N
2.2.2 Ramie/苎麻 43; h# t s; `, m1 c) u% U
2.2.3 Hemp/汉麻 446 ^, ^9 Q- R2 h, E; |
2.2.4 Jute/黄麻 44" x: ]0 c, `5 Q# C4 k0 T
Questions/思考题 45& k& q3 m9 {! S* f$ Y
Chapter 3 Natural Protein Fibers/天然蛋白质纤维 462 b j0 Q" L# q6 F' h1 A& S' D
3.1 Wool/绵羊毛 46
4 X. J9 V2 v3 d# c( }% J 3.1.1 Wool production and history/羊毛生产和历史 465 d5 V4 u+ a% x, {% t! |1 c
3.1.2 Wool grading/羊毛分级 47
3 Y, r/ @6 j f6 {6 u+ } 3.1.3 Wool structure/羊毛结构 47
% e6 d* e0 Y- @! F" C* q% j# @; Y 3.1.4 Wool properties/羊毛性能 48+ {; [0 V5 n$ W O( l+ ]) U; e
3.2 Specialty animal fibers/特种动物毛 51
% @- I4 t9 g; Q% N+ i 3.3 Silk/丝 52
+ B- h; n' E# h4 d& L: g; R. M: V Questions/思考题 546 I6 u/ t3 T/ F! z
Chapter 4 Man-made Fibers/化学纤维 55* \( ?) U# d; C& @
4.1 Manufacturing processing of fiber/纤维生产工艺 55+ Y' l) s$ t3 H! e
4.1.1 Wet spinning/湿法纺丝 563 Z% n" K. x8 J& t
4.1.2 Dry spinning/干法纺丝 56
! G$ F$ @1 G3 ?( A9 N2 N 4.1.3 Melt spinning/熔体法纺丝 56. q- V( f, i% h' \0 e' N
4.1.4 Gel spinning/凝胶纺丝 574 a. v3 U' p3 O& C& M
4.2 Regenerated fibers/再生纤维 57" L# p" C; H" K: w
4.2.1 Acetate/醋酯纤维 57* B, e+ d/ W$ D0 q5 C
4.2.2 Triacetate/三醋酯纤维 59& i; m' z3 @$ |9 \1 f4 F8 K
4.2.3 Viscose fibers/粘胶纤维 59$ T/ }/ n0 H* H- |" H, m: l' i( _
4.3 Synthetic fibers/合成纤维 60
, _- G9 d/ Z" p 4.3.1 Acrylic/腈纶 60: y. ]6 ]' P9 }+ _% Q
4.3.2 Modacrylic/改性腈纶 611 V3 R) F# y' f- s
4.3.3 Nylon/锦纶 61
; g4 \- n- Q9 q$ } 4.3.4 Polyester/涤纶 62
5 i2 g% {7 F" C 4.3.5 PBI/聚苯并咪唑纤维 63
% z- y) {* O6 S& N" V 4.3.6 Vinal/聚乙烯醇纤维 63/ |! j8 c+ R! y2 Z/ e
4.3.7 Olefin/聚烯烃纤维 63
2 o0 Q! T' k! `* ^ 4.3.8 Aramid/芳纶 64
0 i0 U6 [7 y0 ^& i0 O! L 4.3.9 Lycra/莱卡 64
9 ~3 Z5 z1 v) v, X 4.4 Other man-made fibers/其他化学纤维 66% `4 [1 O- x+ Z8 x1 ]
4.4.1 Glass/玻璃纤维 66* R* l9 w1 R( L' C' U# ^; H+ O1 C
4.4.2 Metallic/金属纤维 67
; q, j$ h, a9 R& V9 k# v Questions/思考题 67 }1 w( z6 G3 Z7 y& ~
Chapter 5 New Fibers/新型纤维 684 W1 l2 y8 b% G0 m* U3 P! S
5.1 Carbon fibers/碳纤维 68
% m8 g7 Z/ j0 a) W7 w 5.2 Fluorocarbon/氟碳纤维 68
6 b3 @; r% _3 i6 M* E! _) n 5.3 Lyocell fibers(Tencel)/莱塞尔纤维 681 w: w7 Y( a( v' ?$ f
5.4 High-wet-modulus fibers/高湿模量纤维 69" n0 O E$ s! z+ I9 J8 j Z8 C
5.4.1 Modal fibers/莫代尔纤维 69
9 }( D& q) f: t 5.4.2 Richcel/丽赛纤维 70! L8 R5 O6 R @
5.5 Soybean protein composite fibers/大豆蛋白复合纤维 70
. J1 i+ [3 A' A, @. r {) B 5.6 PLA fiber/聚左旋乳酸纤维 71
& W2 }0 V; h ]* h$ U7 r2 e7 h 5.7 Heterogenous fibers/复合纤维 71
6 L8 e+ v+ {; r$ R5 N. y 5.7.1 Bicomponent or multicomponent/双组分或多组分 720 q# c/ F6 O5 ^
5.7.2 Biconstituent or multiconstituent/双成分或多成分 73! U% X/ _6 @+ a' Q& ^% y
5.7.3 Matrix or matrix-fibril/基质型纤维 73
, g' G( g7 F* M/ @$ v( z 5.8 Differential fibers/差别化纤维 74
9 G5 s$ X. r3 Q) h 5.9 Functional fibers/功能性纤维 74$ I3 a# E8 n) T" w9 Z' I, [
5.10 High performance fibers/高性能纤维 74
& ?) j$ z9 s4 U( R6 u! t Questions/思考题 74
) B: k, o5 x, K4 W Chapter 6 The Property of Absorbing Moisture/吸湿性 75
0 t3 X4 M1 o0 e5 h2 U 6.1 Orientation and crystallization/取向与结晶 75# M$ |$ _3 }+ x) H; z% S* h
6.2 Moisture sorption/吸湿性 75, N8 d# c" K7 A; M# E
6.2.1 Regain and moisture content/回潮率与含水率 757 V) a! a8 K5 K {! }
6.2.2 Relation between regain and relative humidity/回潮率与相对湿度的关系 75
8 w/ i0 n6 N. Z0 A3 V 6.2.3 Comparison of various materials/不同材料吸湿性的对比 76# ]7 {1 |- w8 R7 c
6.2.4 Theories of moisture sorption/吸湿理论 78
! H6 \8 j+ ?- p2 I* S# N; S Questions/思考题 809 y1 s u) s" b% R2 u
Chapter 7 Other Physical Properties of Textile Fibers/纤维的其他物理性能 81
5 e! P0 K7 i9 ], r: M" K 7.1 Electronic properties/电学性能 81
- o1 H" D6 r! H7 U% ? 7.1.1 Definitions/定义 81
4 \, O9 m3 U6 T' d1 X# e& \6 G 7.2 Optical properties/光学性能 82: o: m, n9 Z9 V& ?, M# f
7.3 Thermal properties/热学性能 83
5 o D3 r$ B1 ^; O 7.3.1 Thermal parameters/热力学参数 832 r* ]; P$ I9 Y# x+ Z7 k3 O
7.3.2 A comparison of temperature effects/温度效应比较 83+ k- o, I# t3 \# D
Questions/思考题 83
4 a& \& R7 \) \1 d0 JPart Ⅲ Textile Yarns/纺织纱线 84
8 n3 D" J! m7 M0 N3 ~8 E Chapter 8 Yarn Processing and Construction/纱线制造与结构 84
8 Y7 Z8 G W% N6 @' o4 |8 M 8.1 Spun yarns/短纤纱 85; e; ^4 v+ K& z& Z7 X% E3 \. M- D
8.2 Filament yarns/长丝纱 85
5 o6 i- ?2 H, P( ]- c 8.3 Methods of yarn processing/纺纱方法 85
8 c' X* p) ]- M* l# U4 r) s 8.3.1 Ring-spinning/环锭纺 86
6 Q( |7 r- _6 C( B/ [ 8.3.2 New methods of yarn processing/新型纺纱方法 86
$ ?/ F# T" W. S0 C8 n 8.4 Single and ply yarns/单纱和股线 89
. z- D1 \: X& r# z& Y 8.5 Special types of yarn/特种纱线 90
* \ g% \: l q3 _) E 8.5.1 Fancy yarns/花式纱 90
+ m- `" \* ^7 G5 R 8.5.2 Stretch yarns/弹力纱 91/ N2 t9 }) }% E! ?
8.5.3 Textured yarns 变形纱线 91
, h; h9 k! P2 F; ~9 I, P 8.6 Blends and mixtures yarns/纱线混纺与混用 923 z- T. W! M% J7 o; E' \7 h2 a
Questions/思考题 93
, D2 b) B. t3 ~4 l4 h Chapter 9 Yarn Properties/纱线性能 94( ~# Y' d6 `, {1 j3 X
9.1 Yarn number/纱线细度 943 e" x* z3 j' {/ L9 x! G
9.1.1 Denier system/旦数 94
% `/ B- F; t k" T 9.1.2 Yarn count system/纱线英制支数 94( ?0 ^6 U# f: k- p" D/ {
9.1.3 Tex system/线密度 95
; a7 |% y# O$ f# ?- d0 q 9.1.4 Metric numbering system/公制支数 95
% Q4 P8 ]/ u1 ]& t, D 9.1.5 Conversion in different systems/不同系统之间的换算 956 M' r U& m+ Y1 t3 }8 Q" y- {3 e; h
9.2 Ply yarn counts and singles equivalent/股线支数与单纱支数 959 I1 e9 n8 x- u, Z$ _( I( t) H
9.3 Yarn twist/纱线捻度 963 c2 n" R* E3 ^4 p6 I ?
9.4 Yarn hairiness/纱线毛羽 97
, H0 K8 a1 C6 V# ^1 a8 q 9.4.1 Hairiness test method/毛羽测试方法 98
: E2 m% V) y4 F& y/ h1 X) Q: `( Z 9.4.2 Factors affecting hairiness/影响毛羽的因素 98
4 o( f; a- t/ k ^: V4 o" C 9.5 Yarn unevenness/纱线不匀 99* }/ W7 e: b! @% _
9.5.1 Test of yarn unevenness/纱线不匀的测试 99
9 J! n! y, x& ~( X 9.5.2 Reasons for yarn unevenness/纱线不匀的原因 100
; R" E1 g; C$ s. C+ Z" b 9.6 Classification of yarn quality/纱线质量分析 100
, d! s! X) ?& z7 E8 r3 Y k) S& u, ^ Questions/思考题 100
; Z$ Z6 \* L4 M" ^$ k" pPart Ⅳ Textile Fabrics/织物 102) n S8 e0 o+ Z& J: d3 P
Chapter 10 Woven Fabrics/机织物 1025 y9 h6 @2 u& z
10.1 Making woven fabrics/织制机织物 102
0 w7 |3 ]# R3 j 10.1.1 The loom/织机 102
: G. s! ~ G( ? 10.1.2 Loom type/织机类型 104# G7 p' B/ u8 ^, E' Y- C+ v
10.1.3 Loom motions/织机运动 104
7 k! n5 p8 @* g8 `) {/ S 10.1.4 Electronics in weaving/电子技术在织机中的应用 105
9 P" X, S* w- q2 B, z `/ Z 10.1.5 The selvage/布边 105
2 d6 M$ K$ F1 O9 S7 K5 ? 10.2 Warp yarns and filling yarns/经纱和纬纱 1054 j | O' u& p1 u* h, ]* A+ |
10.2.1 Identification/鉴别 1060 a5 C6 w2 l# F# [; p
10.3 Face and back/正面与反面 1060 O1 E8 t. t% `
10.3.1 Reasons for differenee/存在差异的原因 107( O: X- p+ U2 C) c8 N* L7 _; R) @' ~
10.3.2 Caution/应用的要点 107
7 L$ K8 r: ~0 [1 L8 s2 S 10.4 Top and bottom/顶端和底端 107
$ d$ f) v( ~ Y1 p 10.4.1 Reasons for difference/存在差异的原因 107
! s) ^6 J: |9 n4 ?2 v5 u& c# ~ 10.5 Weave floats/组织浮线 1083 Z5 P' Q3 p" d9 R- }/ O
10.6 Basic weaves/基本组织 1089 s$ [2 ]; V0 k( }
10.6.1 Plain weave/平纹组织 108
% ] L; M% @7 i( n I8 [* s5 s 10.6.2 Twill weave/斜纹组织 109# t y1 s- R5 ^3 A0 H$ s5 r4 b) v
10.6.3 Satin weave/缎纹组织 111) ?" _( C& _* \* b) ?
10.7 Fabric performance and characteristics/织物性能和参数 112* A1 }* F1 M# X* H. P6 X/ [
10.7.1 Fabric width/幅宽 112
0 O, k" ?- a, J6 x Z. {0 w5 I 10.7.2 Fabric weight/织物重量 112
' T. Y: b! r' D# K/ q2 r% g) U' } 10.7.3 Fabric thickness/织物厚度 113, u$ ]+ t+ L& s
10.7.4 Fabric density/织物密度 1130 @2 p& W3 F, E& \- s- T
10.7.5 Fabric count/织物经纬密度 113
3 e3 T: H/ ~3 i* E 10.7.6 Fabric defects/织物疵点 1137 I% v4 F0 E) [ A. J* `2 u
Questions/思考题 113! m8 X* j- r, B9 P- s
Chapter 11 Knitted Fabrics/针织物 114
1 a8 m9 V- T/ y3 O 11.1 Making of knitted fabric/针织物形成 114
& n" M" f3 b: c" q 11.1.1 The forming of knitted stitches/线圈的形成 1141 l$ O, V1 N! { W) a3 \
11.1.2 Types of knitted stitches/线圈的种类 1165 F6 t& Y+ W) }) }/ s$ L. p
11.2 Weft knits/纬编针织物 117
& u* D/ g. O: w4 R) T# B; d 11.2.1 Jersey knit fabric/纬平针织物 117! [6 E) Z7 T; u9 G1 D" J
11.2.2 Rib knit fabric/罗纹针织物 118
# D% `. g- E1 R( _0 A4 I: K 11.2.3 Purl knit fabric/双反面针织物 119
1 l3 r' z* l- X* s, m5 D3 z9 ~ 11.2.4 Double knits/双面针织物 120
. r3 `$ b! `% P R1 d7 L1 b7 Z2 [. j 11.2.5 Full-fashioned knits/全成形针织物 1200 z c4 e9 \9 ^( D+ F
11.3 Warp knits/经编针织物 121! h2 o" d* O0 ?# y# I; [
11.3.1 Tricot fabrics/特里科经编针织物 121
: B8 ]3 Q0 k1 x a* L T- X 11.3.2 Raschel fabrics/拉舍尔经编针织物 1227 m) }! e8 z$ w: ]
11.4 Performance and characteristics/性能和参数 122
/ r* m R1 Z* J Questions/思考题 123
. I0 h0 |+ I) i# {, ~; l, |1 @ Chapter 12 Nonwoven Fabrics/非织造布 124
. J" s2 U, m) K' C" t 12.1 Introduction/导论 124
+ G O6 ?/ y5 C. G, z# e7 T 12.2 Manufacturing methods/生产方法 125* G( {" p' Y% Q8 [
12.2.1 Dry laid system/干法成网 125; k$ n, X# g- q F
12.2.2 Wet laid system/湿法成网 1257 Z0 k& q9 m' P ?
12.2.3 Polymer laid system/聚合物挤压法 125
& {* @( h {: [' d( f; m, t8 H 12.3 Various nonwovens/各种非织造布 125
% d" ^0 p7 @# h$ `( ^, X8 l 12.3.1 Needle punched nonwovens/针刺法非织造布 1253 N$ V" v8 P, @2 i' O
12.3.2 Bonded web nonwovens/黏合法非织造布 126* N1 f3 \2 x; t; N2 c, N* Q
12.3.3 Spunlaced nonwovens/射流喷网法非织造布 127, r3 k, ?7 H" q% N8 {" L
12.3.4 Spunbonded nonwovens/纺粘法非织造布 1287 I3 e: L2 D( h& ^& H/ T2 m2 u- W0 s; ~/ a
12.3.5 Melt-blown nonwovens/熔喷法非织造布 129# [ ]! h% w/ w: |6 r2 Z
Questions/思考题 129
2 s4 H/ y3 J3 _9 b2 v; n. h+ ~* h7 PPart Ⅴ Textile Testing/纺织品测试 1302 Z b5 a& i' i! q* I+ \1 B5 w6 p5 E) l
Chapter 13 General Test Methods/常规测试方法 130$ l" c9 ^9 V$ t, t9 O. L
13.1 General fiber tests/纤维常规测试 130
7 r7 x V3 V9 z* v 13.1.1 Fiber identification/纤维鉴别 130
5 O7 R$ u4 X* ]1 `" M, X! ] 13.1.2 Fiber length/纤维长度 134
8 v, [1 [7 y7 [ 13.1.3 Fiber fineness or linear density/纤维细度或线密度 135
3 N w) ?" T* d; C 13.1.4 Cross-sectional shape/截面形状 135" F4 `9 p4 s- n: z5 G8 u4 F! U/ [, R: ^
13.1.5 Crimp/卷曲 135
/ l h* I! Y* `, F 13.1.6 Regain/回潮率 1367 C& N$ Q9 ^# s6 J( `5 K" r' O
13.1.7 Mechanical properties/机械性能 136
% @# f. q* [, ~9 v9 d8 _/ j( [ 13.1.8 Chemical characteristics/化学性能 136
7 {3 n) G2 f+ i" c9 {; m 13.1.9 Surface characteristics/表面性能 136
' Z( ~+ O4 g/ _% l# B3 G 13.1.10 Density and specific gravity/密度和相对密度 137 C3 ?( C: Z% z% G5 g5 Z. m* |$ w
13.2 Special tests for natural fibers/天然纤维的测试 137
0 C7 Q) l* p5 x& i* B7 t 13.2.1 Tests for cotton/棉纤维测试 137
* ~) j3 G# p1 [ 13.2.2 Tests for wool/毛纤维测试 1397 n5 z! i8 D) R2 R% \5 L
13.3 Testing of tensile properties/拉伸性能测试 140* ?$ z9 z) D |% h
13.3.1 Description of tensile proprieties/拉伸性能的描述 141) Q; j2 y' V- ]" M/ w4 S0 U9 T$ @- i* ~
13.3.2 Fiber and yarn tensile testing/纤维和纱线拉伸性能的测试 146
2 [3 K( D; X) n 13.3.3 Fabric tensile testing/织物拉伸性能测试方法 147
1 C4 y5 u7 X1 T' @* c. ]9 P Questions/思考题 149, ~/ a$ k+ I: Q( J2 {
Chapter 14 Fabric Abrasion and Pilling/织物磨损与起球 1504 T1 Y$ J% P+ X l1 [6 I
14.1 Types of abrasion/磨损的类型 150
# L. }9 L; g9 X) G/ v 14.1.1 Abrasion between fabrics/织物间的磨损 150
9 k. G6 _. ^! e! g( T 14.1.2 Abrasion between fabric and a nontextile surface/织物与非纤维制品表面磨损 150
) G a* o; w; u 14.1.3 Abrasion within fabric/织物内部磨损 151$ E/ t2 p) j: S, _3 \
14.1.4 Abrasion by foreign materials within the fabric/与织物内部其他材料的磨损 151 N+ o6 ^0 i* _4 {. V6 e7 X" ?" u
14.2 Factors affecting fabric abrasion resistance/影响耐磨性能的因素 151
% d: u$ N8 O) _% y( X( ]6 C% Q 14.2.1 Fabric properties/织物性能 151
0 X3 ?2 D- Q& A% m: l# a 14.2.2 Other factors/其他因素 1532 W p% b! D+ l! r. U
14.3 Abrasion testing/磨损测试 154' `* y" c6 q9 N9 i- ]3 r$ o
14.3.1 Visual comparison with an unabraded specimen/与未磨损样品视觉对比 154
' P( |* y6 W2 ]* p/ i 14.3.2 Number of cycles to produce a hole/产生磨损破洞需要的摩擦圈数 154
% H/ W% `& a: {1 ^ 14.3.3 Change in a physical property/物理性能的变化 154- t5 `2 u# \" x2 l" {; y/ n+ c
14.3.4 Microscopic examination/显微镜观测 155
/ \/ t- s# T- B$ C, }2 k 14.4 Aesthetics of abrasion and wear/穿着和磨损对美感的影响 155
6 h$ _4 D1 S$ {# }; P, x1 ?: g7 E 14.4.1 Color changes caused by abrasion/磨损引起的颜色变化 1551 c+ P9 y2 ^ p5 {1 `* Z- {
14.4.2 Pilling/起球 1562 a! g. Q% A2 g5 c
Questions/思考题 157! | A6 P4 P' G4 n, Z
Chapter 15 Fabric Hand and Drape/织物手感与悬垂 158
; K$ J) s7 ?6 ]5 z& e0 \ 15.1 Fabric hand/织物手感 158# O" W0 O; \( T/ B
15.2 Fabric drape/织物悬垂 159& j+ U( I5 w Z0 ~7 u+ s
15.3 Measurement of hand and drape/手感与悬垂的评价 161" T$ q O! J- I7 t. W# T
15.3.1 Subjective evaluation/主观评定法 161
Z( _4 n% f1 w5 j4 b 15.3.2 Quantitative measurement/定量评定法 162
% d& C% \+ s8 S* m' ^% A7 z 15.3.3 Kawabata evaluation system/KES评定法 163) Q. n+ r4 B6 [4 k- H, ]2 E
Questions/思考题 163
' A- }& k5 X* v+ {; B2 X. r8 S Chapter 16 Fabric Colorfastness/织物染色牢度 164
$ w. k" u( T# v7 |2 r- S 16.1 Evaluation of color and colorfastness/颜色和染色牢度评定方法 164$ T+ ?; Q, D# t% u w3 _( C
16.2 Colorfastness tests/染色牢度测试 164; \: Q' X$ x: C8 d. B
16.2.1 Colorfastness to crocking/耐摩擦色牢度 164- c. l* K, E# z
16.2.2 Colorfastness to laundering and bleaching/耐洗涤和耐漂白色牢 1653 |& P; M1 f; P
16.2.3 Colorfastness to drycleaning/耐干洗色牢度 166
+ [$ }8 ~9 R Y 16.2.4 Colorfastness to perspiration/耐汗渍色牢度 166 z; l, J8 r) d7 i+ e
16.2.5 Colorfastness to water/耐水浸色牢度 166! S/ O5 f4 n2 Q, N
16.2.6 Colorfastness to light/耐光照色牢度 167
2 X! g+ y& L! V+ V1 h/ d4 c, [ 16.2.7 Colorfastness to atmospheric contaminants/耐空气污染色牢度 168
7 n. N( T& n' R; f R5 ^, ` Questions/思考题 168
7 u; g: ^6 @/ L/ |. l) X Chapter 17 Fabric Flammability/织物可燃性 169. P* ~# Q5 q6 y. j: T
17.1 Flammability standards/可燃性标准 169
- X; K4 p+ T4 { a 17.2 Properties affecting flammability/影响可燃性的因素 169
* v- \3 I0 l6 I c- r 17.3 Flammability testing/可燃性测试 171& \& ~ N$ D: Z) S, `% y- _% Y
17.3.1 Forty-five degree angle test/45°燃烧测试法 171
, M n( F2 e0 A& i1 z+ f$ b 17.3.2 Vertical flame tests/垂直燃烧测试法 1727 n& Z: @, N* g: F
17.3.3 Carpet testing/地毯测试 172: @9 d3 h) w5 }( g6 \
17.3.4 Cigarette tests/卷烟点燃测试 172
" @1 r+ k* L! ]& A4 A5 @ 17.3.5 Other standard flammability tests/其他可燃性测试 1737 G( r( e1 _4 z3 n7 u- y& q+ b
Questions/思考题 173% F$ k" Y1 i. h& I: f" x4 r
Chapter 18 Comfort of Textiles/纺织品舒适性 174
% m& ?1 ~- \* x& i: i: c 18.1 Physical phenomena affecting thermal comfort/影响热舒适性能的物理现象 174" h& O5 f8 ^. q3 H
18.1.1 Heat transfer/热传递 174% r$ `" w$ l5 V# E7 V Q
18.1.2 Moisture transfer/湿传递 175- e! J* r* `$ ]* n: x# p
18.1.3 Water resistance/抗水性 175
C# Y) D/ k7 K2 z1 Z 18.1.4 Air transfer/透气性 1767 D& E3 b* f* G8 F2 i
18.1.5 Porosity and cover factor/多孔性和覆盖系数 176& n9 p: D* K8 q" @6 X
18.1.6 Electrostatic propensity/静电 177
" x" f. S h& a; S- K) _. X; M 18.2 Evaluations of textile properties related to comfort/与舒适性相关的纺织品性能评价 177
( k: R) }* X+ M( P9 j; ] 18.2.1 Heat transfer/热传递 178
" y# T( p3 W5 _' G+ ~ 18.2.2 Moisture properties/湿传递性能 179
" n) R6 B4 S' D* I" w# j 18.2.3 Air permeability/透气性 1793 q7 y3 |4 `$ y+ R4 D H
18.2.4 Porosity/孔隙率 180
% H9 [, L# O% T9 _) v6 \8 b! q 18.2.5 Electrostatic tests/静电测试 180
, n( q- X" g/ M; h Questions/思考题 1803 A y! `! i0 a U2 w: X5 `% I" P
Appendix/附录 181; u& Y/ A2 g" r8 A+ f
AATCC:AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS/美国纺织化学家与染色家协会 181* [% T$ D* q0 c% n: g5 D
ASTM:AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR TESTING AND MATERIALS/美国材料试验学会 1844 t( J" _; z `5 \: ^9 J4 }
Vocabulary/词汇表 189
2 [5 z: G& Q) |6 s* v6 s, IReferences/参考文献 197$ a! L3 ?& S5 I
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