
纺织材料学(双语教材),刘妍,熊磊,PDF。普通高等教育“十一五”国家级规划教材(本科),纺织工程专业双语教材,电子目录,14M。5 C f7 D$ e' h# ~" u: f
8 |& ?" h* m7 P8 @" ~" S6 {7 W内容提要
; P2 R' v4 b0 y" O, O本书讨论了纤维、纱线与织物(包括机织物、针织物及非织造布)的结构、机械性能、物理性能及使用性能。涉及的纤维势括天然纤维(如棉、毛、麻、丝等)、传统化学纤维及新型化学纤维。本书同时介绍了纤维、纱线和织物的各种标准测试方法(包括国际上常用的ASTM, AATCC及GB等方法),并讨论了与各种测试方法有关的测试原理及对测试结果的影响因素。
. k+ z6 w& g8 m1 @) h本书可供高等纺织院校纺织、服装相关专业的本科生及研究生作为《纺织材料学》的双语教材或专业英语教材,也可供其他专业师生、纺织贸易专业人员和科研及生产单位的技术人员参考。
5 ]. ^: @+ O0 Q9 p目录" b$ D4 h) b( o9 I! L9 s# i
Part Ⅰ An Introduction to Textiles/纺织入门 18: }; d; M( t5 Q0 Z6 z Z, Y
Chapter 1 Introduction/介绍 18+ O. ~( R- @! U* y: e5 G9 |, u8 `
1.1 ASTM Standard Terminology Relating to Textiles/ASTM纺织标准术语 18
. U8 I3 K$ ^" _9 P" v4 m 1.2 Fiber history/纤维历史 26* Q0 M! E) G( r" r) f% w; W5 |1 u
1.2.1 Natural fibers/天然纤维 262 i9 ^& T7 `, H
1.2.2 Man-made fibers/化学纤维 27
- `7 a8 ~! F1 d" p" {" Q Questions/思考题 30
3 ?: z d o3 ZPart Ⅱ Textile Fibers/纺织纤维 32
2 ^- }; O) v: R2 Z6 W6 {3 h5 z Chapter 2 Natural Cellulosic Fibers/天然纤维素纤维 329 i: x6 D. [- ]2 \, u9 _$ Z% A
2.1 Cotton/棉 339 R% T+ Z( o8 T1 |; M: n
2.1.1 Nature of cotton/棉花的种类 33 X. q- a6 ~/ a6 W% ~- x
2.1.2 Classification/分类 34
! I* Z: P% y: s" \- l1 @. u& q 2.1.3 Growth and structure of cotton/棉纤维的生长与结构 34
/ d" e E( J4 e( p. r 2.1.4 Maturity/成熟度 362 }. ~1 B E0 p, e
2.1.5 Cotton properties/棉纤维的性能 381 k, L0 l7 a( _0 M) m& P
2.1.6 Cotton classification/棉花分级 39
7 u1 C" T+ h9 s3 y0 r8 w. q 2.2 Bast fibers/韧皮纤维 40
: h. Z- |. E+ J8 c& J 2.2.1 Flax (linen)/亚麻,亚麻织物 41
& w, S4 @, Q" E: u% u. u* X 2.2.2 Ramie/苎麻 43/ W( R* T* i8 o; m4 Y) Y
2.2.3 Hemp/汉麻 44
: o; u) H* S# J: q 2.2.4 Jute/黄麻 44 o+ |; K& v9 N2 q0 P' y
Questions/思考题 45
* _) c3 _& d, N# `* r Chapter 3 Natural Protein Fibers/天然蛋白质纤维 46
1 d( B- P2 T+ z 3.1 Wool/绵羊毛 46
% X/ c; b- O$ F) F) }& h. Z" i 3.1.1 Wool production and history/羊毛生产和历史 46
: Q. t7 L4 b1 X, D. n; Q& C+ Y 3.1.2 Wool grading/羊毛分级 47
) ^4 i" ~; u2 M! s3 R; | 3.1.3 Wool structure/羊毛结构 47. m _! O; r. P/ K5 o2 m
3.1.4 Wool properties/羊毛性能 48
$ Y+ V8 d$ a7 j; l, \5 r 3.2 Specialty animal fibers/特种动物毛 51
- C; |4 V4 L/ C, ]9 T 3.3 Silk/丝 526 w7 X. ^ t2 |4 @ K3 l$ r5 V6 b
Questions/思考题 54
+ E1 l. f" t- H& L0 w$ p" B, R Chapter 4 Man-made Fibers/化学纤维 55
3 A# A% @: I* m 4.1 Manufacturing processing of fiber/纤维生产工艺 55
# c+ L/ l) Q/ p3 m2 f" w: Q) s 4.1.1 Wet spinning/湿法纺丝 56$ ~% o% I& v2 A" F% ?3 S; ^
4.1.2 Dry spinning/干法纺丝 56# A& c+ e+ f7 P& o& ]% o
4.1.3 Melt spinning/熔体法纺丝 56! M+ s6 k0 X3 l, W) U
4.1.4 Gel spinning/凝胶纺丝 575 Y& P. \! k0 c9 X9 b9 H7 Q& N0 C7 F
4.2 Regenerated fibers/再生纤维 570 J! [6 S9 d$ m3 D2 K7 P: s
4.2.1 Acetate/醋酯纤维 57
; v% {# j& _6 C5 t0 h2 l% P9 m+ r8 q 4.2.2 Triacetate/三醋酯纤维 59
: @+ q: m" N2 @& ]" V 4.2.3 Viscose fibers/粘胶纤维 59- Q' I Y" v& T K
4.3 Synthetic fibers/合成纤维 600 _( P& r% M+ F
4.3.1 Acrylic/腈纶 60
9 i: G0 L4 y9 h! [ 4.3.2 Modacrylic/改性腈纶 61 Q; \3 X; a" N/ L
4.3.3 Nylon/锦纶 61/ f- }8 L& W& p- k; h) i
4.3.4 Polyester/涤纶 62+ u2 }, m2 c% @3 \, g
4.3.5 PBI/聚苯并咪唑纤维 63
' n% h* m5 C( C; q 4.3.6 Vinal/聚乙烯醇纤维 63" o: N- }9 U/ g( X
4.3.7 Olefin/聚烯烃纤维 63
9 b! r: O( Y9 Z* N% e$ J, O; C/ q 4.3.8 Aramid/芳纶 64
. h+ \8 x4 w4 o6 I 4.3.9 Lycra/莱卡 641 |" ]# Q* T% I- y
4.4 Other man-made fibers/其他化学纤维 66
, W" g6 n& m4 T 4.4.1 Glass/玻璃纤维 66
4 e9 z3 i R( W2 ~ 4.4.2 Metallic/金属纤维 67
' _( H1 i9 \- L, Q+ v$ e3 V9 b Questions/思考题 67
* S! w0 m6 p% j& l3 I9 E0 j4 M Chapter 5 New Fibers/新型纤维 68$ @( o' V1 v2 B( |- L2 H
5.1 Carbon fibers/碳纤维 686 X5 h! B8 |& l
5.2 Fluorocarbon/氟碳纤维 682 l# N8 t" i* C4 p
5.3 Lyocell fibers(Tencel)/莱塞尔纤维 68
$ g5 O" [& P9 K6 k 5.4 High-wet-modulus fibers/高湿模量纤维 695 ?& q2 ?7 w2 f, O, b
5.4.1 Modal fibers/莫代尔纤维 69
- ]1 m% Y8 i0 x 5.4.2 Richcel/丽赛纤维 70 F- {& w- `. f) u3 u1 l& Z
5.5 Soybean protein composite fibers/大豆蛋白复合纤维 70
3 O5 H6 z% f7 D* \ 5.6 PLA fiber/聚左旋乳酸纤维 715 U) n; R2 i/ K ^ `
5.7 Heterogenous fibers/复合纤维 71
) T$ ^! `& J+ r5 R 5.7.1 Bicomponent or multicomponent/双组分或多组分 72
% u8 ~7 D: G: A% u/ L( i/ b# O+ g 5.7.2 Biconstituent or multiconstituent/双成分或多成分 73
0 k2 y/ ]9 ?% h0 \0 E: z 5.7.3 Matrix or matrix-fibril/基质型纤维 738 l, ], m/ T5 d% s
5.8 Differential fibers/差别化纤维 74
5 Q; ^, @' n% Q# Q8 L 5.9 Functional fibers/功能性纤维 74
0 A0 b; W$ w# C- W$ n! } 5.10 High performance fibers/高性能纤维 74
; C0 h( _" g9 f* E# K; e% p Questions/思考题 74
7 f; S; U% Y% P5 w) p& n: C Chapter 6 The Property of Absorbing Moisture/吸湿性 750 Y7 p4 a, t1 @& [7 Q7 u
6.1 Orientation and crystallization/取向与结晶 75* \- W3 }$ ~ B' D0 ]9 S
6.2 Moisture sorption/吸湿性 75
# _- l! q5 q. y+ y# z( x; V# J 6.2.1 Regain and moisture content/回潮率与含水率 75
8 I; [+ w! Q/ k1 e 6.2.2 Relation between regain and relative humidity/回潮率与相对湿度的关系 75
/ \2 [ m% L- ^' J+ K 6.2.3 Comparison of various materials/不同材料吸湿性的对比 766 P$ P1 M9 O( `) X$ H& x
6.2.4 Theories of moisture sorption/吸湿理论 78- O) F Z }7 x' [- s
Questions/思考题 80+ D' E' G* M2 k+ }# A+ |
Chapter 7 Other Physical Properties of Textile Fibers/纤维的其他物理性能 81
/ O* d% t: g8 L( F/ s 7.1 Electronic properties/电学性能 814 S6 @5 n2 S7 E- o0 f- [- w
7.1.1 Definitions/定义 81: q( M( C5 d7 Y7 Z& P6 k" \6 f2 P
7.2 Optical properties/光学性能 82' K* g: ~7 o& J0 O( U
7.3 Thermal properties/热学性能 83
; F x* o- @8 o4 e: s J( D 7.3.1 Thermal parameters/热力学参数 83
) k `" o g$ m3 {6 @2 W) I, P, O 7.3.2 A comparison of temperature effects/温度效应比较 83
: x2 V* g* t+ Y9 h1 l2 k" z/ o$ h Questions/思考题 83+ a" f+ E. Q7 v) G% }4 Y8 [4 r% |
Part Ⅲ Textile Yarns/纺织纱线 84
- X& Q( m; \8 j. i" ]1 [ [ Chapter 8 Yarn Processing and Construction/纱线制造与结构 84% [* \! k$ o- b9 U1 M4 M& s0 c
8.1 Spun yarns/短纤纱 85
+ H1 Z9 e1 ^6 }/ h8 v& d 8.2 Filament yarns/长丝纱 85" |2 A! g7 @. o
8.3 Methods of yarn processing/纺纱方法 85
+ X- I2 b/ d6 k6 ^8 H6 ?/ A 8.3.1 Ring-spinning/环锭纺 86
& `" \( A1 B9 ]) _& ?/ _4 D7 s 8.3.2 New methods of yarn processing/新型纺纱方法 865 l& _9 P' |0 o9 J
8.4 Single and ply yarns/单纱和股线 89
" R( s$ p/ G+ i1 Q5 C 8.5 Special types of yarn/特种纱线 90
4 z% D: C: a# R 8.5.1 Fancy yarns/花式纱 90
. l; y! l6 w* o# d- k 8.5.2 Stretch yarns/弹力纱 91, }7 U& W0 M2 _( P% {
8.5.3 Textured yarns 变形纱线 91! Z( I% l( d# g. J
8.6 Blends and mixtures yarns/纱线混纺与混用 92* V8 I- P @& x2 v6 L
Questions/思考题 93
6 w! K- E' D3 t Chapter 9 Yarn Properties/纱线性能 94' L/ N2 d$ d% e9 h0 ~, Q& M
9.1 Yarn number/纱线细度 94
5 `5 j0 P6 I6 \7 d: O3 ?. P 9.1.1 Denier system/旦数 94- t- W8 k$ i( ~: Y1 Z9 M
9.1.2 Yarn count system/纱线英制支数 945 l3 z* C" x9 B2 ]" K+ c* {
9.1.3 Tex system/线密度 95& g O; \0 d) ]) I: M
9.1.4 Metric numbering system/公制支数 956 I5 i. S. @* {# f
9.1.5 Conversion in different systems/不同系统之间的换算 95& D- c) J y$ u+ q3 L
9.2 Ply yarn counts and singles equivalent/股线支数与单纱支数 95
/ A+ h' I+ h" r( Q l& m 9.3 Yarn twist/纱线捻度 96
: I) r: v+ C) b5 {! D5 f O/ { 9.4 Yarn hairiness/纱线毛羽 97
/ g9 u; y4 m- N. p 9.4.1 Hairiness test method/毛羽测试方法 98) p! B# P# ]2 x0 \- z3 M
9.4.2 Factors affecting hairiness/影响毛羽的因素 989 z( \' `5 c: v
9.5 Yarn unevenness/纱线不匀 99
8 @, Q0 Y6 `3 D/ _3 j' U& C, T9 a 9.5.1 Test of yarn unevenness/纱线不匀的测试 992 }; A/ s; x8 j7 |8 D+ e
9.5.2 Reasons for yarn unevenness/纱线不匀的原因 100
; r! X; U R+ F4 C) H4 f/ B5 {( k# \+ O; A 9.6 Classification of yarn quality/纱线质量分析 100
$ w% }! z3 x0 Q5 Y: E5 u1 }: F& S* ? Questions/思考题 100
1 V# ~2 Z b% P5 EPart Ⅳ Textile Fabrics/织物 102& d0 ?% E t4 x
Chapter 10 Woven Fabrics/机织物 102
) Y8 Y1 c0 w! Z* B* J) x 10.1 Making woven fabrics/织制机织物 1027 z$ F H! v6 V( ^4 ?
10.1.1 The loom/织机 102
! @# N: ^9 g4 x9 w% k; V 10.1.2 Loom type/织机类型 104
; m& Y7 z5 P4 m$ m! N 10.1.3 Loom motions/织机运动 104
$ l- j$ ?7 T; o) G: I: A 10.1.4 Electronics in weaving/电子技术在织机中的应用 1056 j2 s$ r3 I5 N
10.1.5 The selvage/布边 105
) e6 m! `6 F: o/ N 10.2 Warp yarns and filling yarns/经纱和纬纱 105 ^- q% M- m- h. _3 q( k
10.2.1 Identification/鉴别 106
* F) p M, }, k 10.3 Face and back/正面与反面 106
- Q2 Q0 o: O7 T5 E0 X' D* `+ F 10.3.1 Reasons for differenee/存在差异的原因 107
3 ]2 U% W; _6 s! [+ G0 U7 f 10.3.2 Caution/应用的要点 107" D2 J1 ]+ }/ D% b, t$ d! ~& f
10.4 Top and bottom/顶端和底端 1074 u. i8 G" E |
10.4.1 Reasons for difference/存在差异的原因 107
0 F; ^! ]' w- l 10.5 Weave floats/组织浮线 108! k# _* |' a; q
10.6 Basic weaves/基本组织 108
$ q: O' L8 q+ X" [* N 10.6.1 Plain weave/平纹组织 1080 l# r4 M0 h( K6 ^9 }
10.6.2 Twill weave/斜纹组织 1091 A) _4 ^/ N! [9 |7 Y7 F
10.6.3 Satin weave/缎纹组织 111" a, d7 N [! n8 r7 q5 I3 r
10.7 Fabric performance and characteristics/织物性能和参数 112
% i& `6 K1 z# o4 Q 10.7.1 Fabric width/幅宽 112
+ B) h2 b4 c& D. {3 f& k 10.7.2 Fabric weight/织物重量 112
- c9 n% Z4 c: g. ]+ ?/ j 10.7.3 Fabric thickness/织物厚度 1131 \1 U2 w8 W7 n9 S5 p' G. B0 [: f7 b
10.7.4 Fabric density/织物密度 113; f* N! v! v8 X! b( ~ ~' B
10.7.5 Fabric count/织物经纬密度 1138 `8 Z$ V8 s& |* ]- x" t
10.7.6 Fabric defects/织物疵点 113
3 I4 \/ m0 P5 {# k Questions/思考题 1139 @- I4 [* `$ M; Y8 s2 B
Chapter 11 Knitted Fabrics/针织物 114: K) k5 l- M T+ @# e% I
11.1 Making of knitted fabric/针织物形成 1143 ^0 Y- o6 d0 h, \: B4 [
11.1.1 The forming of knitted stitches/线圈的形成 114
$ W7 F# z3 Y; f/ A B& Q! S! k) s 11.1.2 Types of knitted stitches/线圈的种类 116' \. \3 ^; F# e
11.2 Weft knits/纬编针织物 117
1 G+ }: z0 q1 {% k& u2 u 11.2.1 Jersey knit fabric/纬平针织物 1179 ]6 \# Q# r) P4 N! s1 q9 s5 q
11.2.2 Rib knit fabric/罗纹针织物 118
2 r4 Q# U$ K. d" n 11.2.3 Purl knit fabric/双反面针织物 119) o" \/ X. b# }8 Y3 x3 P! n
11.2.4 Double knits/双面针织物 1204 c4 Y" L: l5 h- j$ E# p$ I0 i/ I
11.2.5 Full-fashioned knits/全成形针织物 120
. \( e" j }1 l6 N6 X 11.3 Warp knits/经编针织物 121: B& y$ u6 `% I0 e, Z
11.3.1 Tricot fabrics/特里科经编针织物 121
9 t5 O' h5 C' |; w7 h 11.3.2 Raschel fabrics/拉舍尔经编针织物 122- i- E Y+ [3 l- V
11.4 Performance and characteristics/性能和参数 1228 ^# \! X( L' `; m1 E
Questions/思考题 123
9 d- d: M- c9 n) D6 S% W" _ Chapter 12 Nonwoven Fabrics/非织造布 124' R9 s# R& G& z4 ~2 p6 v
12.1 Introduction/导论 1243 K1 y6 r1 R$ R2 G
12.2 Manufacturing methods/生产方法 125
; ?. O- z; J. [ 12.2.1 Dry laid system/干法成网 125! [* w4 F% o, I% e# M3 y8 M
12.2.2 Wet laid system/湿法成网 125+ d' `4 E% g6 z4 R W
12.2.3 Polymer laid system/聚合物挤压法 125
8 e$ J$ ~( V; s& a& A" V 12.3 Various nonwovens/各种非织造布 125# T8 F8 ~4 r/ H- z" L+ \" j c* d2 i
12.3.1 Needle punched nonwovens/针刺法非织造布 125
7 i2 p2 J8 X9 a% z% L! V 12.3.2 Bonded web nonwovens/黏合法非织造布 126
4 w$ S$ ]9 c3 N% X9 M# ^ 12.3.3 Spunlaced nonwovens/射流喷网法非织造布 127
, P+ J) v5 f/ t4 I- j- R 12.3.4 Spunbonded nonwovens/纺粘法非织造布 128. X! r5 r$ c/ W% ]0 d; h7 v
12.3.5 Melt-blown nonwovens/熔喷法非织造布 129
0 v- M4 V, u8 p7 z( \- V Questions/思考题 129, x1 g# ?9 V. G. w
Part Ⅴ Textile Testing/纺织品测试 130
% |% O! Z* \1 o Chapter 13 General Test Methods/常规测试方法 130
! r# ?# B: c6 i+ S( k. v 13.1 General fiber tests/纤维常规测试 130
r- v/ P, G' ` 13.1.1 Fiber identification/纤维鉴别 130
6 S2 E. D! ^* Z# M" x( K% W9 Y# Y 13.1.2 Fiber length/纤维长度 1346 @ B. y2 J2 W o$ f% _, D
13.1.3 Fiber fineness or linear density/纤维细度或线密度 135) s/ ~! o6 L4 c" S
13.1.4 Cross-sectional shape/截面形状 1353 m3 n5 t0 N" h0 I0 ?
13.1.5 Crimp/卷曲 135! P! l7 G' q* @' N- k5 V: h6 X
13.1.6 Regain/回潮率 136& `! @" b- e) ^$ D5 P
13.1.7 Mechanical properties/机械性能 136
" K0 l2 F! T( k+ h' X 13.1.8 Chemical characteristics/化学性能 136
) p, [. d9 y: c- u+ b) w 13.1.9 Surface characteristics/表面性能 136. K5 |9 ]+ J. \7 b1 H* p
13.1.10 Density and specific gravity/密度和相对密度 137 |+ W" j7 _- ~4 H! q
13.2 Special tests for natural fibers/天然纤维的测试 137$ q; \- L9 N2 C* C$ H
13.2.1 Tests for cotton/棉纤维测试 137# N4 S( T! F3 U9 d
13.2.2 Tests for wool/毛纤维测试 1394 I' U7 S% z6 T$ A; `
13.3 Testing of tensile properties/拉伸性能测试 140
3 a6 r* x+ g" ?0 ?2 e7 z 13.3.1 Description of tensile proprieties/拉伸性能的描述 141
+ Y3 U! t/ |- J6 H) d# h8 P7 V0 ^ 13.3.2 Fiber and yarn tensile testing/纤维和纱线拉伸性能的测试 146% P" E0 t7 J L% S/ v3 P$ ^
13.3.3 Fabric tensile testing/织物拉伸性能测试方法 147
3 |5 O, U, ^! ^5 d- g; \; }: j Questions/思考题 149
2 w# j1 s' i5 l7 e3 ]$ a. e Chapter 14 Fabric Abrasion and Pilling/织物磨损与起球 1505 r c' h9 z/ T$ u7 J' f
14.1 Types of abrasion/磨损的类型 150
7 r( ~$ p' H4 e. N! [# ] 14.1.1 Abrasion between fabrics/织物间的磨损 150- P3 j/ M2 e. Z- u# b1 Q8 Z5 `) x
14.1.2 Abrasion between fabric and a nontextile surface/织物与非纤维制品表面磨损 1501 L* o7 W+ \; H9 s
14.1.3 Abrasion within fabric/织物内部磨损 151
# m- w2 f5 V% f( Z7 Q 14.1.4 Abrasion by foreign materials within the fabric/与织物内部其他材料的磨损 1518 @& i: c# }* Z4 N4 ^
14.2 Factors affecting fabric abrasion resistance/影响耐磨性能的因素 151
; S9 S0 E* z7 S$ w$ q7 V 14.2.1 Fabric properties/织物性能 151
* p8 @# T* S) I' C 14.2.2 Other factors/其他因素 153
5 j8 c/ b+ Y" Y. Z/ H' A$ o& j 14.3 Abrasion testing/磨损测试 154
( t& F% Y5 D( n) u 14.3.1 Visual comparison with an unabraded specimen/与未磨损样品视觉对比 154
S [) ]# Y! u- ^* j 14.3.2 Number of cycles to produce a hole/产生磨损破洞需要的摩擦圈数 154! L/ @: q# ~# @9 L4 t& z# r
14.3.3 Change in a physical property/物理性能的变化 1548 R& O% b% B' {) o
14.3.4 Microscopic examination/显微镜观测 155
, C) X: N" L5 W. U& e, I* b4 B 14.4 Aesthetics of abrasion and wear/穿着和磨损对美感的影响 155
* a, Y8 V1 g, _7 s1 N 14.4.1 Color changes caused by abrasion/磨损引起的颜色变化 155
+ P0 n% s3 T) x; Q4 k$ A 14.4.2 Pilling/起球 156' x8 r2 C: g# m
Questions/思考题 157
}: e- V; C( V W' g; | Chapter 15 Fabric Hand and Drape/织物手感与悬垂 158
. {$ @5 a+ p$ d1 g1 ?, u# }! E( h 15.1 Fabric hand/织物手感 158
0 _# S2 T0 g( t) Z8 S# k- l 15.2 Fabric drape/织物悬垂 159
+ @7 }; I1 @' C. Q% ]1 ` 15.3 Measurement of hand and drape/手感与悬垂的评价 1610 H, v1 L6 ~8 ^; r0 H1 ]: a
15.3.1 Subjective evaluation/主观评定法 1611 j) O+ n. u# X; M+ q
15.3.2 Quantitative measurement/定量评定法 162
* }8 q; f" R; W 15.3.3 Kawabata evaluation system/KES评定法 163: |& w) i0 \; p) X! P% f
Questions/思考题 163/ w" m7 }9 G9 w6 T/ x/ q3 _' s1 i7 k
Chapter 16 Fabric Colorfastness/织物染色牢度 164
1 M! G; ]. I7 I9 p; Q2 M- F 16.1 Evaluation of color and colorfastness/颜色和染色牢度评定方法 164
+ ?3 W2 A. u+ \" D! ? 16.2 Colorfastness tests/染色牢度测试 164. i7 g u, P' z* G: a
16.2.1 Colorfastness to crocking/耐摩擦色牢度 164
b5 a+ x$ [: t9 k. a 16.2.2 Colorfastness to laundering and bleaching/耐洗涤和耐漂白色牢 165
2 ?. n, z! w0 j+ Z 16.2.3 Colorfastness to drycleaning/耐干洗色牢度 1661 b+ W; ]+ K+ ?" Z( e- ~% G
16.2.4 Colorfastness to perspiration/耐汗渍色牢度 166
# H3 S, P; ^" ^: i 16.2.5 Colorfastness to water/耐水浸色牢度 166
# G0 S- ^7 `- O6 L- K: M; R 16.2.6 Colorfastness to light/耐光照色牢度 167
# G2 o6 n" J A% f 16.2.7 Colorfastness to atmospheric contaminants/耐空气污染色牢度 168
7 N/ r" _# a9 ]3 |/ p9 ^* i Questions/思考题 168
* `% H$ g0 f# c' J! Z% K+ { Chapter 17 Fabric Flammability/织物可燃性 169( t* |. h$ v1 y# X, s
17.1 Flammability standards/可燃性标准 169. R* }3 Q( v$ Y# [6 {6 L
17.2 Properties affecting flammability/影响可燃性的因素 169
$ @* B( u* a. O* v. _ 17.3 Flammability testing/可燃性测试 171
7 [, N# Q- I$ C1 [' K" U: l, K 17.3.1 Forty-five degree angle test/45°燃烧测试法 171
/ S+ @4 j& p- @# G: p c 17.3.2 Vertical flame tests/垂直燃烧测试法 172
4 ?& n) }& R( k9 P: r/ a2 _ 17.3.3 Carpet testing/地毯测试 172
; N9 v8 w+ C1 f9 ~# u1 k# _ 17.3.4 Cigarette tests/卷烟点燃测试 1729 |; C2 p V6 _2 X7 `" g
17.3.5 Other standard flammability tests/其他可燃性测试 173( u( A' u. s" _. K' B
Questions/思考题 173
2 @/ E" s+ X- g Chapter 18 Comfort of Textiles/纺织品舒适性 1745 W! w8 Y& u4 v m4 ^% d# k
18.1 Physical phenomena affecting thermal comfort/影响热舒适性能的物理现象 174' _; w8 f! R* h! B. D
18.1.1 Heat transfer/热传递 1742 I) U( a/ T* _" [% \
18.1.2 Moisture transfer/湿传递 1753 t: w* `- f/ K' q. c
18.1.3 Water resistance/抗水性 175
# ~( X5 D' X. d5 q' s* y 18.1.4 Air transfer/透气性 176/ i X8 K% W+ z0 F4 Z
18.1.5 Porosity and cover factor/多孔性和覆盖系数 176
0 s' P6 K# t2 F/ e 18.1.6 Electrostatic propensity/静电 1775 f/ N% F8 t3 @; y) n
18.2 Evaluations of textile properties related to comfort/与舒适性相关的纺织品性能评价 177
: @: Z3 @4 F8 \, O& Q 18.2.1 Heat transfer/热传递 178/ v4 \9 H5 P) Z8 K* I
18.2.2 Moisture properties/湿传递性能 179: Q% b& } v# |5 J; J
18.2.3 Air permeability/透气性 179
* _: X5 p4 X4 k' D+ @* S% X i5 k U 18.2.4 Porosity/孔隙率 180" F# r: t8 C4 T* Y" A
18.2.5 Electrostatic tests/静电测试 180
( Y# B9 [* U3 [+ r; E/ m Questions/思考题 180$ E+ A& f, r% E: o" z
Appendix/附录 1814 T2 g2 w9 v' ]$ K% |; T
AATCC:AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS/美国纺织化学家与染色家协会 181
3 W8 A& Y0 @' q$ W7 x- h" m ASTM:AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR TESTING AND MATERIALS/美国材料试验学会 184
2 N ?6 |1 ?0 D! u9 w, mVocabulary/词汇表 189% v! i0 p7 d/ l6 @; F+ e/ E' f6 n
References/参考文献 197# o; Q3 J+ K3 S" ]1 r
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