
纺织材料学(双语教材),刘妍,熊磊,PDF。普通高等教育“十一五”国家级规划教材(本科),纺织工程专业双语教材,电子目录,14M。& g. c W2 L3 Z7 q
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内容提要/ V% f2 i2 v# w2 o1 V, [
本书讨论了纤维、纱线与织物(包括机织物、针织物及非织造布)的结构、机械性能、物理性能及使用性能。涉及的纤维势括天然纤维(如棉、毛、麻、丝等)、传统化学纤维及新型化学纤维。本书同时介绍了纤维、纱线和织物的各种标准测试方法(包括国际上常用的ASTM, AATCC及GB等方法),并讨论了与各种测试方法有关的测试原理及对测试结果的影响因素。
% c( J7 t9 {- Z. }: a2 G本书可供高等纺织院校纺织、服装相关专业的本科生及研究生作为《纺织材料学》的双语教材或专业英语教材,也可供其他专业师生、纺织贸易专业人员和科研及生产单位的技术人员参考。
& S4 i6 Y% Y1 r) q9 b' B目录5 E- I# K& N4 L* e9 `9 K0 ]
Part Ⅰ An Introduction to Textiles/纺织入门 184 @# G2 v" |& ]
Chapter 1 Introduction/介绍 182 [7 y/ g# l( k2 I) V
1.1 ASTM Standard Terminology Relating to Textiles/ASTM纺织标准术语 18
) n3 f5 j. b; b2 H- F' K# Z 1.2 Fiber history/纤维历史 26; |4 i& `: E1 c# S. q3 ~
1.2.1 Natural fibers/天然纤维 26
) ?& N3 S% w) f" r6 \ 1.2.2 Man-made fibers/化学纤维 276 q! j; A8 e# N. ?* C8 A
Questions/思考题 30
9 m3 C( G7 x8 B' {- t QPart Ⅱ Textile Fibers/纺织纤维 32 M2 K/ f3 _' x1 }
Chapter 2 Natural Cellulosic Fibers/天然纤维素纤维 32
. k3 H: A9 H( I; [$ u 2.1 Cotton/棉 33
" q8 g& L3 z( T$ I m3 z' M! ^ 2.1.1 Nature of cotton/棉花的种类 33$ H8 [. z/ s1 T1 y
2.1.2 Classification/分类 34
3 P/ P n) T" k# \# J 2.1.3 Growth and structure of cotton/棉纤维的生长与结构 34& ~" u2 _5 W+ o5 S2 M
2.1.4 Maturity/成熟度 36% f1 T. P+ I) G: s; t/ ~1 c
2.1.5 Cotton properties/棉纤维的性能 38
6 i; g, X- c! b6 Y: S 2.1.6 Cotton classification/棉花分级 39
, ^, n ~/ { r- O$ e& a 2.2 Bast fibers/韧皮纤维 409 ?8 h7 _) k. R+ K& r
2.2.1 Flax (linen)/亚麻,亚麻织物 41& c- {; ]' T) g
2.2.2 Ramie/苎麻 432 H3 M: J! L7 n1 n# h0 q7 ~4 a
2.2.3 Hemp/汉麻 44
0 _% d4 x9 o- x. u: a! y. E" k 2.2.4 Jute/黄麻 441 u8 m8 r$ y% A4 y7 t
Questions/思考题 45 q/ q( W, `3 @- p
Chapter 3 Natural Protein Fibers/天然蛋白质纤维 46
; k+ K" k/ d4 T8 D2 } 3.1 Wool/绵羊毛 46
5 I. \& D% U0 ~' Y# [+ e 3.1.1 Wool production and history/羊毛生产和历史 46
- G/ B6 [" F' c' m- ]( w3 T 3.1.2 Wool grading/羊毛分级 470 h, a% D! D0 O1 B; h# A
3.1.3 Wool structure/羊毛结构 47
0 e6 n, I; T0 M! { 3.1.4 Wool properties/羊毛性能 48
4 @. r H4 o8 |* a/ z 3.2 Specialty animal fibers/特种动物毛 51& ]. j) z3 S# a! p& k7 v' a. Z
3.3 Silk/丝 52
/ C R9 @7 b4 o2 S7 ]) D' F+ X" C2 O: g Questions/思考题 547 r3 A$ z) N& d
Chapter 4 Man-made Fibers/化学纤维 55
5 C& s7 B0 d; D- S0 { e/ I: E) y 4.1 Manufacturing processing of fiber/纤维生产工艺 558 W1 h0 J$ E8 V( U7 z, m
4.1.1 Wet spinning/湿法纺丝 56
1 `, w% x+ A1 s) {$ _8 f! q 4.1.2 Dry spinning/干法纺丝 564 c) ~* N: v/ V9 w
4.1.3 Melt spinning/熔体法纺丝 56
h2 I# A. h4 I' d+ }/ E 4.1.4 Gel spinning/凝胶纺丝 57! ?; X, K1 b* K
4.2 Regenerated fibers/再生纤维 57
; I( F0 s2 s0 m, g8 ?5 @$ i 4.2.1 Acetate/醋酯纤维 573 |6 B% Y5 d: ]3 a8 R: ^/ H; `
4.2.2 Triacetate/三醋酯纤维 59
) f& Y- Y4 G/ U! [$ M& O9 z; V 4.2.3 Viscose fibers/粘胶纤维 59
- {. E2 o9 _1 Z1 ?" ^ 4.3 Synthetic fibers/合成纤维 60! u& V, v1 m" L
4.3.1 Acrylic/腈纶 600 j/ Z& S! q+ \- \
4.3.2 Modacrylic/改性腈纶 61- A- }: F5 t$ ^, \
4.3.3 Nylon/锦纶 61: g$ p& `, e g$ O: L9 F2 O0 E
4.3.4 Polyester/涤纶 62/ k' o, c! e v5 i0 @7 g \
4.3.5 PBI/聚苯并咪唑纤维 631 t/ ~9 d( b2 l- {: A( `
4.3.6 Vinal/聚乙烯醇纤维 63
/ D- J+ j2 q# J3 o) J; l5 r 4.3.7 Olefin/聚烯烃纤维 63
{0 n$ F# U" l 4.3.8 Aramid/芳纶 64
; d- \ A, f4 t& w 4.3.9 Lycra/莱卡 64
5 q5 _' G* z3 R! o 4.4 Other man-made fibers/其他化学纤维 66
) O% D1 c. n6 j% ], y 4.4.1 Glass/玻璃纤维 66
# ]* i0 S: D- F' B 4.4.2 Metallic/金属纤维 67
! N* C( P. d9 k7 m* [3 t Questions/思考题 67
3 y& A& U, Y# J1 e, K) x* u Chapter 5 New Fibers/新型纤维 68/ u; p# ~. p( L1 Z
5.1 Carbon fibers/碳纤维 68
+ B" U: Z' `2 s$ h% a* Q* h) l 5.2 Fluorocarbon/氟碳纤维 68
4 J. ~$ t9 U) I 5.3 Lyocell fibers(Tencel)/莱塞尔纤维 68
7 ]* L) N% M" k7 ~1 _" E$ F2 F% e) M 5.4 High-wet-modulus fibers/高湿模量纤维 69
' j( A9 z$ J& d, [7 J6 q 5.4.1 Modal fibers/莫代尔纤维 69
) a% c1 T4 h- [, T 5.4.2 Richcel/丽赛纤维 70
4 C7 d ^/ F+ g& P2 D# q 5.5 Soybean protein composite fibers/大豆蛋白复合纤维 70
0 j! D+ l1 n+ Y3 y6 B 5.6 PLA fiber/聚左旋乳酸纤维 71
/ I( ^, @& O& O3 s 5.7 Heterogenous fibers/复合纤维 71
9 x1 H. Q7 r( d% _ 5.7.1 Bicomponent or multicomponent/双组分或多组分 72! W$ S, }% a: F3 B% M5 P- w
5.7.2 Biconstituent or multiconstituent/双成分或多成分 73* F4 V) R) W6 p( h
5.7.3 Matrix or matrix-fibril/基质型纤维 732 f ]0 O1 z1 ? A
5.8 Differential fibers/差别化纤维 74- m, ]: Z* w$ q, F$ P
5.9 Functional fibers/功能性纤维 74+ Y! }& F; e! V# R9 T
5.10 High performance fibers/高性能纤维 74
1 F/ X. p# |, e6 U. y Questions/思考题 74
7 a) K V6 L) q5 J6 c8 P$ H8 x Chapter 6 The Property of Absorbing Moisture/吸湿性 75. `6 Y2 v! u. y
6.1 Orientation and crystallization/取向与结晶 75
( F0 P4 \$ e8 P) V( ]7 w7 J6 v1 o 6.2 Moisture sorption/吸湿性 75% P o4 H. N8 Q2 e2 P* `) s/ z
6.2.1 Regain and moisture content/回潮率与含水率 75
/ I* h. w7 K( o4 y 6.2.2 Relation between regain and relative humidity/回潮率与相对湿度的关系 75" M8 f0 @' g) H% O9 h" B
6.2.3 Comparison of various materials/不同材料吸湿性的对比 76
" w9 I. F B7 O+ }# g7 Y" l) ] 6.2.4 Theories of moisture sorption/吸湿理论 785 O, d, x8 C9 u# Y# b2 }
Questions/思考题 80
8 x/ d6 \" x8 e' v, E5 |% h Chapter 7 Other Physical Properties of Textile Fibers/纤维的其他物理性能 811 V) w) g. _ U0 R. x1 [6 ]
7.1 Electronic properties/电学性能 81
$ b: m7 ?1 W2 \6 s9 H9 ]5 p; l 7.1.1 Definitions/定义 81: }" P5 }3 [6 c! C7 [& l1 f
7.2 Optical properties/光学性能 82" A) |- y) s1 v) z0 _
7.3 Thermal properties/热学性能 83& n# f3 w' C2 K9 X
7.3.1 Thermal parameters/热力学参数 83
- n+ u" W, Y6 D6 ^! f; B) d3 a2 D, |4 P 7.3.2 A comparison of temperature effects/温度效应比较 83. L* y% P% m$ N1 ~: Y( A' L8 o ]" Y
Questions/思考题 83
; S5 ?8 _! s- J5 Q; K, Z2 jPart Ⅲ Textile Yarns/纺织纱线 84
( f! e3 H) L0 W" [ Chapter 8 Yarn Processing and Construction/纱线制造与结构 849 h, I- } h9 s- ]3 E: Z$ _
8.1 Spun yarns/短纤纱 853 k2 U# d+ C+ T4 C- o
8.2 Filament yarns/长丝纱 85
2 q+ R: d+ U& X& Q6 x! r 8.3 Methods of yarn processing/纺纱方法 85% O5 W* b6 | \0 ~# h
8.3.1 Ring-spinning/环锭纺 86
- Y& B+ e4 R1 z2 W1 _ 8.3.2 New methods of yarn processing/新型纺纱方法 86
2 R; F9 r% B9 q& E. r4 i 8.4 Single and ply yarns/单纱和股线 89
* h5 I$ ^6 _) i, v+ w 8.5 Special types of yarn/特种纱线 90: H! u3 q! |6 v1 n! z
8.5.1 Fancy yarns/花式纱 90
`7 }% e7 v+ I1 e9 M5 f9 r 8.5.2 Stretch yarns/弹力纱 91
+ M- {9 t8 h7 `) j G( Q 8.5.3 Textured yarns 变形纱线 91# o* k0 t9 l2 P& [4 }8 N
8.6 Blends and mixtures yarns/纱线混纺与混用 92
# c \8 T e, x) r6 z& O9 Z4 ?: l8 U Questions/思考题 93
9 x* ?/ g3 v& {# T: a Chapter 9 Yarn Properties/纱线性能 94
* w) v* U* d$ b/ T$ _. ]6 Z6 B% o2 F8 k 9.1 Yarn number/纱线细度 94$ v+ m w C/ Z" j. L8 Q
9.1.1 Denier system/旦数 94- o% A9 x8 p1 ^+ ?/ _/ m8 l
9.1.2 Yarn count system/纱线英制支数 945 a+ L% ~( B2 e( f
9.1.3 Tex system/线密度 957 Y Y- C. G% Q
9.1.4 Metric numbering system/公制支数 95% W, d. G3 Y! P8 y* d
9.1.5 Conversion in different systems/不同系统之间的换算 95
8 @$ N6 T$ z, y4 G; C 9.2 Ply yarn counts and singles equivalent/股线支数与单纱支数 95: Z1 F6 a% u& y8 _
9.3 Yarn twist/纱线捻度 96
4 R' R' }5 j; u% e3 t! R( } 9.4 Yarn hairiness/纱线毛羽 979 G( E B6 p( u# _
9.4.1 Hairiness test method/毛羽测试方法 98+ d" b: G, g# I* |" p
9.4.2 Factors affecting hairiness/影响毛羽的因素 98. j# O. l+ A. u% E
9.5 Yarn unevenness/纱线不匀 990 n5 m, H( s0 Z2 ?& s
9.5.1 Test of yarn unevenness/纱线不匀的测试 99
& J6 C0 h' l0 P& ]" t# s+ g O 9.5.2 Reasons for yarn unevenness/纱线不匀的原因 100
' q% ]# z7 v, u/ k 9.6 Classification of yarn quality/纱线质量分析 100$ D0 ?3 s1 `5 v3 E e& G
Questions/思考题 100* W- ~' e. x0 ^
Part Ⅳ Textile Fabrics/织物 102. L. G2 ?+ u2 ?5 u+ U. ]5 z
Chapter 10 Woven Fabrics/机织物 102
; ~0 q- b5 G2 ^; u) m' X 10.1 Making woven fabrics/织制机织物 102
2 W5 g4 h# h o* s3 B; U4 M. g0 U 10.1.1 The loom/织机 1026 Z4 W1 }* K: q+ q% D2 W# Z# {% }
10.1.2 Loom type/织机类型 104
, o& {% ^( B! _+ ` 10.1.3 Loom motions/织机运动 104" Y9 ?$ B9 y! f! P
10.1.4 Electronics in weaving/电子技术在织机中的应用 105& p0 B2 \) K/ g. n" W2 x
10.1.5 The selvage/布边 105
3 v2 y) }! Y: h6 K 10.2 Warp yarns and filling yarns/经纱和纬纱 105
6 C( T& @- a$ Q' g0 h" Q0 S 10.2.1 Identification/鉴别 106
% B. l/ L1 Z( @1 F8 T- M8 n+ `, p 10.3 Face and back/正面与反面 106" D0 [. t# d, X, x6 \
10.3.1 Reasons for differenee/存在差异的原因 107
$ y4 G- I0 }+ ?7 T 10.3.2 Caution/应用的要点 107
0 y ?' @; n+ B3 q) l 10.4 Top and bottom/顶端和底端 1075 |4 y$ K" o9 V- A4 N* E
10.4.1 Reasons for difference/存在差异的原因 107
* B) N* t* P: l* D 10.5 Weave floats/组织浮线 108
8 `. g2 [ [9 |' x. e h8 ]* ~5 S 10.6 Basic weaves/基本组织 1085 `/ [9 g% t- ~- a2 p+ G4 S) W
10.6.1 Plain weave/平纹组织 108
# |' U/ q2 Z& c; m 10.6.2 Twill weave/斜纹组织 109
/ n3 g5 @! y- w 10.6.3 Satin weave/缎纹组织 111, W( Z0 o$ O h! R$ W6 q
10.7 Fabric performance and characteristics/织物性能和参数 1124 \( ^) n+ w: `1 X1 p- a
10.7.1 Fabric width/幅宽 112
' b+ z. V; }2 j9 W1 T: `1 o6 w) T F 10.7.2 Fabric weight/织物重量 1120 ~8 J2 c0 P7 ]- ^! G/ `
10.7.3 Fabric thickness/织物厚度 1137 t/ v, b& v" [% T. N5 d( M0 U4 p
10.7.4 Fabric density/织物密度 113
5 o) _" |! X$ Q* s( S( N 10.7.5 Fabric count/织物经纬密度 113
' H2 q2 v! D) N 10.7.6 Fabric defects/织物疵点 113
! P& ?+ F% ^; R Q# @! I Questions/思考题 113( J+ i; }2 m; Y' J, t
Chapter 11 Knitted Fabrics/针织物 114, |+ B# a! m# K0 z5 R4 B& l; I
11.1 Making of knitted fabric/针织物形成 1141 `2 I9 l% N- H" |4 L& e
11.1.1 The forming of knitted stitches/线圈的形成 114
7 c8 e' Y4 [% b0 L 11.1.2 Types of knitted stitches/线圈的种类 1165 Z( {# u" L }" G
11.2 Weft knits/纬编针织物 1170 {! A5 m; K4 l7 Y( u5 Y
11.2.1 Jersey knit fabric/纬平针织物 117+ ?* j" `4 c8 {. _! E
11.2.2 Rib knit fabric/罗纹针织物 118
6 Y* d6 n" p ^7 R$ K 11.2.3 Purl knit fabric/双反面针织物 119
* @! t2 W: K2 }& t- M* N, _ 11.2.4 Double knits/双面针织物 120" d, X n6 J& e: @; Q
11.2.5 Full-fashioned knits/全成形针织物 120
. V8 Q: v4 p- c$ z' e# N' ] 11.3 Warp knits/经编针织物 121& K' C' X) @& L! ^7 p8 f* \2 f
11.3.1 Tricot fabrics/特里科经编针织物 121
' D7 I- f) J" Z 11.3.2 Raschel fabrics/拉舍尔经编针织物 122
5 c1 P; p5 h% y7 @5 q \. V, K7 O% } 11.4 Performance and characteristics/性能和参数 122
+ I" c8 f7 M5 q5 Z- X: Q- { g/ x* y Questions/思考题 123- S2 A6 A/ R: E) B) R! J; x
Chapter 12 Nonwoven Fabrics/非织造布 1248 E+ Z* B2 C5 M3 `" T0 {
12.1 Introduction/导论 124
2 c, r7 X/ c" T 12.2 Manufacturing methods/生产方法 125
2 ^7 z5 _! {1 V; K/ v" h 12.2.1 Dry laid system/干法成网 125. E8 T! T2 k" f2 W3 ^
12.2.2 Wet laid system/湿法成网 125
- y' [& C: S2 b, D3 i" ~* } 12.2.3 Polymer laid system/聚合物挤压法 125
/ ~4 y, p& H* u# X 12.3 Various nonwovens/各种非织造布 125
8 `, j- r' x9 b, D2 ?5 p 12.3.1 Needle punched nonwovens/针刺法非织造布 125
6 ^5 x! X* |% f7 f. d0 H) `' s s0 }1 L 12.3.2 Bonded web nonwovens/黏合法非织造布 126
) O3 r# [$ {' R) m% I 12.3.3 Spunlaced nonwovens/射流喷网法非织造布 127
" N( d D' s1 y1 r$ @ 12.3.4 Spunbonded nonwovens/纺粘法非织造布 128* c( V2 c3 K, L
12.3.5 Melt-blown nonwovens/熔喷法非织造布 129
" W2 M' Z h% O/ E' l Questions/思考题 129
, ]9 F3 N: j$ t! J) l6 cPart Ⅴ Textile Testing/纺织品测试 130
& {! x( r. ^/ \% e# L) Q: D5 N) h Chapter 13 General Test Methods/常规测试方法 1301 d" K3 ~7 u p
13.1 General fiber tests/纤维常规测试 1309 M/ \) q. @3 x% _
13.1.1 Fiber identification/纤维鉴别 1300 E2 ~+ E" @2 T. Q2 C( D
13.1.2 Fiber length/纤维长度 134
$ b) N7 l1 B; @ 13.1.3 Fiber fineness or linear density/纤维细度或线密度 135+ j$ g) N+ F5 b7 n1 u) \ m b
13.1.4 Cross-sectional shape/截面形状 135* j! A2 u' w& _* h
13.1.5 Crimp/卷曲 135
! s% W1 k7 \; D" r$ g) _) ^4 C& z 13.1.6 Regain/回潮率 136
* @$ l" l9 t# F$ G9 J# r; _ 13.1.7 Mechanical properties/机械性能 136# U- r6 X% S T* J7 A+ g% U( p
13.1.8 Chemical characteristics/化学性能 136) z. ~/ v% C, W* ^
13.1.9 Surface characteristics/表面性能 136% t2 o. M: t$ ? f0 [. q1 k
13.1.10 Density and specific gravity/密度和相对密度 137: ]+ @* h8 O: ~# A9 P3 y, r
13.2 Special tests for natural fibers/天然纤维的测试 137
+ }. M2 a2 H3 M# h- v( d 13.2.1 Tests for cotton/棉纤维测试 137
8 \/ O' d# z: K* F( l 13.2.2 Tests for wool/毛纤维测试 139
; m9 H5 H4 ~& M 13.3 Testing of tensile properties/拉伸性能测试 140" s% v' R; O( N; }! S+ H- m* |, s
13.3.1 Description of tensile proprieties/拉伸性能的描述 141$ L2 z5 X. ]: z
13.3.2 Fiber and yarn tensile testing/纤维和纱线拉伸性能的测试 1469 m, F( _' v1 O& C
13.3.3 Fabric tensile testing/织物拉伸性能测试方法 147/ p+ B+ G/ U: @2 L7 a( l
Questions/思考题 149: v! K' z2 D4 z& t# P9 A( s
Chapter 14 Fabric Abrasion and Pilling/织物磨损与起球 150
! Y' _6 B) B4 R6 z2 U 14.1 Types of abrasion/磨损的类型 150
( } b3 y/ [$ j M 14.1.1 Abrasion between fabrics/织物间的磨损 150
* x+ ^0 }6 k' \' y1 j 14.1.2 Abrasion between fabric and a nontextile surface/织物与非纤维制品表面磨损 150
, l; U+ V* M2 ^+ ~6 w! n' i 14.1.3 Abrasion within fabric/织物内部磨损 151
0 ~: s8 h1 K H2 V4 E 14.1.4 Abrasion by foreign materials within the fabric/与织物内部其他材料的磨损 151% a: C& c! ?) ~; y3 T% G
14.2 Factors affecting fabric abrasion resistance/影响耐磨性能的因素 151
, K. e; h3 u% N$ s/ n+ o& F 14.2.1 Fabric properties/织物性能 1517 u* i/ g9 o6 r* X
14.2.2 Other factors/其他因素 153
9 e0 X+ A4 u5 S! y1 f# D" n f' t/ g 14.3 Abrasion testing/磨损测试 154; [. w4 a, N: u, o. c0 }6 n
14.3.1 Visual comparison with an unabraded specimen/与未磨损样品视觉对比 154& z. H1 m# B _; Q0 I# ?
14.3.2 Number of cycles to produce a hole/产生磨损破洞需要的摩擦圈数 154
! p* n; D/ Q) d! `' \" E1 Z 14.3.3 Change in a physical property/物理性能的变化 154& s# k+ v/ R! [1 B
14.3.4 Microscopic examination/显微镜观测 155( Z" N& l! m* f, w# B8 s
14.4 Aesthetics of abrasion and wear/穿着和磨损对美感的影响 155& m9 [3 E5 U9 j4 x, w! l& N
14.4.1 Color changes caused by abrasion/磨损引起的颜色变化 155
# L+ b! f7 z# `3 S4 C* G 14.4.2 Pilling/起球 156
+ |& r* R, _$ ]$ c6 ? Questions/思考题 157
3 h, ]& m* |/ @3 X3 _ Chapter 15 Fabric Hand and Drape/织物手感与悬垂 158
% C/ u6 L* g1 \) B4 N 15.1 Fabric hand/织物手感 158
6 F. R- Q. B8 b+ p; N" I 15.2 Fabric drape/织物悬垂 159
& m- g0 M0 h. B' x 15.3 Measurement of hand and drape/手感与悬垂的评价 161
0 M4 `) Y: a: o7 v: \3 y5 n9 { 15.3.1 Subjective evaluation/主观评定法 161
, a" r7 l/ o+ x4 [, o 15.3.2 Quantitative measurement/定量评定法 162 D, n% t1 u. U1 N: O) S0 M
15.3.3 Kawabata evaluation system/KES评定法 1633 _8 c; g& [3 D
Questions/思考题 163' N1 Z- Y6 ]9 p5 ^
Chapter 16 Fabric Colorfastness/织物染色牢度 164
1 k- I' w! P& S# {0 s 16.1 Evaluation of color and colorfastness/颜色和染色牢度评定方法 164( t1 } I; F3 `* w
16.2 Colorfastness tests/染色牢度测试 164
% v9 R. v9 Z( _ 16.2.1 Colorfastness to crocking/耐摩擦色牢度 164
% {# K2 a' U' p/ J 16.2.2 Colorfastness to laundering and bleaching/耐洗涤和耐漂白色牢 165
% k- @0 ?. Y( I; J3 U 16.2.3 Colorfastness to drycleaning/耐干洗色牢度 166
% ~9 K0 f, E0 S; p% p6 P 16.2.4 Colorfastness to perspiration/耐汗渍色牢度 166
+ A2 Y* H; I/ \ 16.2.5 Colorfastness to water/耐水浸色牢度 166
7 p* \7 C1 L5 T2 j8 R5 s7 @ 16.2.6 Colorfastness to light/耐光照色牢度 167
7 [& ?" \% J1 M! X+ F 16.2.7 Colorfastness to atmospheric contaminants/耐空气污染色牢度 168
) b9 u; N6 m. \* p5 ?6 F Questions/思考题 168/ \2 c3 Y) b& k, S4 a5 e
Chapter 17 Fabric Flammability/织物可燃性 169) V2 r( E, W0 x2 n
17.1 Flammability standards/可燃性标准 169
5 b% r: M3 y2 P, _' B% v' J: N. ]8 Y 17.2 Properties affecting flammability/影响可燃性的因素 169
- \0 g* J2 |- l 17.3 Flammability testing/可燃性测试 171
8 O" y) w7 Y& i# T0 Z 17.3.1 Forty-five degree angle test/45°燃烧测试法 1714 Q7 O7 D- V( r) U" [
17.3.2 Vertical flame tests/垂直燃烧测试法 172/ s) P) |; B0 A$ V0 J0 ~3 T
17.3.3 Carpet testing/地毯测试 172- o# b% g. E: U5 A
17.3.4 Cigarette tests/卷烟点燃测试 172% Y* l# Z; {! H: q1 x" ?1 U' E p- k
17.3.5 Other standard flammability tests/其他可燃性测试 173* O' W% h+ o8 m+ C# q9 J) n
Questions/思考题 173
6 I, d9 x/ [9 [. F Chapter 18 Comfort of Textiles/纺织品舒适性 174
* H$ f+ L* I& C' j, p 18.1 Physical phenomena affecting thermal comfort/影响热舒适性能的物理现象 174
% M- {% L* |" F; A- Q' m 18.1.1 Heat transfer/热传递 174
; A) c% O1 R% l" C5 L9 ]5 H! q* | 18.1.2 Moisture transfer/湿传递 175+ A; [6 f' e% s/ V3 a
18.1.3 Water resistance/抗水性 175
# R, n% b1 I7 b 18.1.4 Air transfer/透气性 176: L" r' s5 ~7 C8 S2 ^
18.1.5 Porosity and cover factor/多孔性和覆盖系数 176! ` f( S- o- k
18.1.6 Electrostatic propensity/静电 177+ ]0 z9 t' n' D% p
18.2 Evaluations of textile properties related to comfort/与舒适性相关的纺织品性能评价 177
; c. H/ M" y! S 18.2.1 Heat transfer/热传递 178
* _. _7 | J! M: F" I' w 18.2.2 Moisture properties/湿传递性能 179# v2 p) V4 `# U, c, M/ _$ W( h
18.2.3 Air permeability/透气性 179
; S& R9 c- V) h- P6 p/ @( V3 I/ \ 18.2.4 Porosity/孔隙率 180
) R N- |! s0 t" D% a4 h) @ 18.2.5 Electrostatic tests/静电测试 180
) i& [( b& h( ?9 e/ M Questions/思考题 180
/ v" U- L" i2 f) \ C1 XAppendix/附录 181' c7 Y8 {# d/ L
AATCC:AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS/美国纺织化学家与染色家协会 181! a5 u* P$ [# ]( l9 Q8 W0 v
ASTM:AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR TESTING AND MATERIALS/美国材料试验学会 184
0 C0 H, j+ V& W- dVocabulary/词汇表 189; `5 ~# F1 T4 f W0 ?
References/参考文献 197
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