
纺织材料学(双语教材),刘妍,熊磊,PDF。普通高等教育“十一五”国家级规划教材(本科),纺织工程专业双语教材,电子目录,14M。* R/ p8 h. A$ A5 k" p% X: u/ O
+ Q2 w% h9 k# E: j3 C1 ]) g* q内容提要4 D/ x! {8 q( L
本书讨论了纤维、纱线与织物(包括机织物、针织物及非织造布)的结构、机械性能、物理性能及使用性能。涉及的纤维势括天然纤维(如棉、毛、麻、丝等)、传统化学纤维及新型化学纤维。本书同时介绍了纤维、纱线和织物的各种标准测试方法(包括国际上常用的ASTM, AATCC及GB等方法),并讨论了与各种测试方法有关的测试原理及对测试结果的影响因素。
# @; k( m( i. g4 R本书可供高等纺织院校纺织、服装相关专业的本科生及研究生作为《纺织材料学》的双语教材或专业英语教材,也可供其他专业师生、纺织贸易专业人员和科研及生产单位的技术人员参考。
- x3 O% Q% Z0 K+ [: \2 V! w目录
/ ]- S( g* v9 |4 r! ePart Ⅰ An Introduction to Textiles/纺织入门 18
+ L, d0 J. E5 B% d; {0 @ Chapter 1 Introduction/介绍 18( X. \7 F/ F( _
1.1 ASTM Standard Terminology Relating to Textiles/ASTM纺织标准术语 187 P! k3 s2 D4 Y* J
1.2 Fiber history/纤维历史 26
9 ?$ H5 |) P1 \' b 1.2.1 Natural fibers/天然纤维 26
( G6 ]! ? X' g% E3 T% s2 g. m 1.2.2 Man-made fibers/化学纤维 27+ t( Q! {. `: i# k! J
Questions/思考题 30
! q: U, v$ f5 y, q6 `Part Ⅱ Textile Fibers/纺织纤维 323 ]* B! ?: [! Q4 y
Chapter 2 Natural Cellulosic Fibers/天然纤维素纤维 32" p9 A+ u: A G2 t9 T' O
2.1 Cotton/棉 33% ~- V1 U9 \! Z1 m. ~
2.1.1 Nature of cotton/棉花的种类 33
$ J2 L: \& h1 c, f" d" T 2.1.2 Classification/分类 34
; N$ g. z7 @3 e2 ~ 2.1.3 Growth and structure of cotton/棉纤维的生长与结构 34
" X( W) N5 `: F 2.1.4 Maturity/成熟度 364 J+ t: H! Y2 X) |2 j: R4 G1 G% ^6 X
2.1.5 Cotton properties/棉纤维的性能 38. J9 p9 _8 Z) i7 y& w
2.1.6 Cotton classification/棉花分级 396 A% S7 D; l1 b0 n R
2.2 Bast fibers/韧皮纤维 408 w" U$ S% l; P8 x3 D2 S
2.2.1 Flax (linen)/亚麻,亚麻织物 41! u" q& p4 ~9 ~1 g! \
2.2.2 Ramie/苎麻 435 Q2 n- ?0 N( M( w; o
2.2.3 Hemp/汉麻 44 W9 P1 z3 J! ]5 ^2 q( q( P
2.2.4 Jute/黄麻 44
7 w. ^2 F1 H: q1 l0 G3 A Questions/思考题 45- ?% d1 b3 M& S1 T$ H
Chapter 3 Natural Protein Fibers/天然蛋白质纤维 46
# v L" F9 N+ H! n' d 3.1 Wool/绵羊毛 468 _/ n: n5 r. K$ U# }
3.1.1 Wool production and history/羊毛生产和历史 46
7 y' d4 F8 ~' i6 { 3.1.2 Wool grading/羊毛分级 47
8 {) P' P- f9 b# e, w 3.1.3 Wool structure/羊毛结构 47( R6 X& G {2 T6 R' B2 @2 h2 ^
3.1.4 Wool properties/羊毛性能 48
% y- K# y. K1 [* ?- L 3.2 Specialty animal fibers/特种动物毛 51: u- E& S4 `( E- @
3.3 Silk/丝 52
0 K5 [+ b- j' ?, u Questions/思考题 548 m" W2 e- y" v9 B0 [
Chapter 4 Man-made Fibers/化学纤维 55
3 F/ g% N8 s9 _5 X) P" z2 t& _ 4.1 Manufacturing processing of fiber/纤维生产工艺 55
4 p0 s% R% h R$ t- h 4.1.1 Wet spinning/湿法纺丝 56+ v+ j7 I8 H! q7 w5 X1 D
4.1.2 Dry spinning/干法纺丝 564 H) B- m. A) w( s1 n
4.1.3 Melt spinning/熔体法纺丝 56
2 U' {6 X8 O5 r' X9 T9 Z) J9 H3 W 4.1.4 Gel spinning/凝胶纺丝 57
0 ^, d9 Y$ F- U2 s2 C) w/ _ 4.2 Regenerated fibers/再生纤维 57" }- E; d$ v7 p1 K- x2 ^9 j7 u
4.2.1 Acetate/醋酯纤维 577 K1 \7 n( X5 d7 d
4.2.2 Triacetate/三醋酯纤维 59% N+ H' ?) ^! u! p2 g& { n! l
4.2.3 Viscose fibers/粘胶纤维 59
* `7 g* q' L! a; m6 n5 J5 y. h' E 4.3 Synthetic fibers/合成纤维 60! n* j5 r5 `8 ?9 L5 S" Y
4.3.1 Acrylic/腈纶 60
- a( b& D0 P/ `: O& w+ F1 _ 4.3.2 Modacrylic/改性腈纶 61
7 y' L' b5 L' I3 C( t 4.3.3 Nylon/锦纶 61
8 p; |: h" ?; Q: K4 W4 Z 4.3.4 Polyester/涤纶 62
" J8 @1 o6 N$ L# @: ], o 4.3.5 PBI/聚苯并咪唑纤维 63# r6 x7 I* S* L, ?# p' Z
4.3.6 Vinal/聚乙烯醇纤维 63
. d' l4 B# `. Z 4.3.7 Olefin/聚烯烃纤维 63
; i$ C% X0 |/ z5 s5 W K7 x( x 4.3.8 Aramid/芳纶 64% B2 T$ S& Z# {/ B
4.3.9 Lycra/莱卡 64
+ M( B( x, |9 u- k0 E1 F4 J 4.4 Other man-made fibers/其他化学纤维 66& O4 i0 j4 h) E8 E. z$ v: ?
4.4.1 Glass/玻璃纤维 669 g( R+ i6 n2 `& }- }
4.4.2 Metallic/金属纤维 67
' Q+ c1 @, P* D, a4 i* T, W- N; z Questions/思考题 67- a. O4 u. F" @$ z- v7 ^
Chapter 5 New Fibers/新型纤维 68
, a- Z9 n' d" l& u6 I7 _ 5.1 Carbon fibers/碳纤维 68- v- \% |2 {' _6 c, ]- W( T3 ]
5.2 Fluorocarbon/氟碳纤维 68 P) a+ d! p2 t& c3 }* H
5.3 Lyocell fibers(Tencel)/莱塞尔纤维 68
6 j, T' v3 r0 I2 H* a$ R 5.4 High-wet-modulus fibers/高湿模量纤维 69( q9 R: _; i2 N: ^! C' I
5.4.1 Modal fibers/莫代尔纤维 69
' O8 D/ h4 u$ [0 ^! k$ G 5.4.2 Richcel/丽赛纤维 70
6 b# L1 `# t" b+ x8 T( ` 5.5 Soybean protein composite fibers/大豆蛋白复合纤维 70
* @8 v& I" X# i9 H: d% T% ?. a' ?! h 5.6 PLA fiber/聚左旋乳酸纤维 71
- g. m8 T' b- _7 z2 p& M 5.7 Heterogenous fibers/复合纤维 71) O) X# _. ^) {" O# y4 B3 e
5.7.1 Bicomponent or multicomponent/双组分或多组分 720 S$ `: C7 i" Z
5.7.2 Biconstituent or multiconstituent/双成分或多成分 73; U+ Q4 ^4 M" @) Q7 H4 f& V
5.7.3 Matrix or matrix-fibril/基质型纤维 73
% f$ \7 _ t% p3 _( | 5.8 Differential fibers/差别化纤维 74
5 K; `9 H* @! ? t% ?7 D# A% d5 A; G- p 5.9 Functional fibers/功能性纤维 74
' S0 k0 m8 E& t t: C3 _ 5.10 High performance fibers/高性能纤维 74* n5 x9 y: \) [( c2 z
Questions/思考题 74
& B0 A+ Q, d* X3 I Chapter 6 The Property of Absorbing Moisture/吸湿性 755 u3 D1 W1 j$ b
6.1 Orientation and crystallization/取向与结晶 755 f8 W# O/ l) f* r. B; ^
6.2 Moisture sorption/吸湿性 75" G% G$ ^! \1 C
6.2.1 Regain and moisture content/回潮率与含水率 75
6 E; I& H# B4 }; S 6.2.2 Relation between regain and relative humidity/回潮率与相对湿度的关系 758 v; ]0 E! r+ d4 o" H# Y2 p# ?3 s4 p
6.2.3 Comparison of various materials/不同材料吸湿性的对比 766 E, E! @5 d6 P, Z. C
6.2.4 Theories of moisture sorption/吸湿理论 78/ o& w; Z+ j C6 k/ d
Questions/思考题 80# z$ R, M" t" n. @/ i
Chapter 7 Other Physical Properties of Textile Fibers/纤维的其他物理性能 81
9 Q8 M! y: J% o 7.1 Electronic properties/电学性能 81- \0 e$ g$ p8 D9 J6 _8 l2 H
7.1.1 Definitions/定义 812 P% t: i- Q% i9 d
7.2 Optical properties/光学性能 82% S1 a, w" H7 l
7.3 Thermal properties/热学性能 83
3 Q; q% g" M$ \ 7.3.1 Thermal parameters/热力学参数 83
1 X$ H! D9 g% a1 y, k" n 7.3.2 A comparison of temperature effects/温度效应比较 83% Q5 s1 Z# Z/ \ W5 t
Questions/思考题 83
' S+ R) m7 |7 ]0 F/ K, X, nPart Ⅲ Textile Yarns/纺织纱线 84- G) B* M/ D1 X0 p1 z% n
Chapter 8 Yarn Processing and Construction/纱线制造与结构 84
3 V& }* z4 c& j) C- p/ @ 8.1 Spun yarns/短纤纱 85" R* b# l- E/ O; M0 u. m- T
8.2 Filament yarns/长丝纱 85" a } L! O4 @* N4 G, \
8.3 Methods of yarn processing/纺纱方法 85
6 O% \8 ~* G* h& b) w 8.3.1 Ring-spinning/环锭纺 86
[$ Q+ _- s! F% r! R S5 e$ _ 8.3.2 New methods of yarn processing/新型纺纱方法 864 T6 r. V; A9 M) {' | j
8.4 Single and ply yarns/单纱和股线 89
* p5 y0 c @) g s 8.5 Special types of yarn/特种纱线 90
! R9 h9 S4 h. h( U( z/ d3 Z8 y 8.5.1 Fancy yarns/花式纱 90
- O- l8 j9 J1 N# z 8.5.2 Stretch yarns/弹力纱 91; L. U) |) O' k8 _
8.5.3 Textured yarns 变形纱线 91" G- E B9 D4 `6 [
8.6 Blends and mixtures yarns/纱线混纺与混用 92- D( _; t# j% ]* P+ C$ ^5 u7 E& E
Questions/思考题 93! r, ~0 t) X- s' U& P9 g3 {# f
Chapter 9 Yarn Properties/纱线性能 944 ~+ L' A/ a' G' F; r
9.1 Yarn number/纱线细度 94
; I8 l' B: c' T5 W1 ] 9.1.1 Denier system/旦数 94
7 V9 o5 D. L0 z' d$ p0 G, Q! o 9.1.2 Yarn count system/纱线英制支数 94
0 D: p) X! A# S3 h5 b 9.1.3 Tex system/线密度 95
' L/ x6 P1 A3 \1 [ 9.1.4 Metric numbering system/公制支数 95
6 [# c) \+ w+ W 9.1.5 Conversion in different systems/不同系统之间的换算 95! a3 W! `. B2 c4 m3 J( Y
9.2 Ply yarn counts and singles equivalent/股线支数与单纱支数 95
! ~8 L) Q U, T 9.3 Yarn twist/纱线捻度 96" Q* T$ a* G; {5 r
9.4 Yarn hairiness/纱线毛羽 97
9 V9 d' ^" j! X( B- X5 ?/ I' \9 l# ? 9.4.1 Hairiness test method/毛羽测试方法 985 k3 t: V0 ^$ `3 v; Y1 r! {; E. s
9.4.2 Factors affecting hairiness/影响毛羽的因素 98
: z6 [% p, e4 Y* i8 T; H6 _+ Z2 R) @5 m 9.5 Yarn unevenness/纱线不匀 99
2 W3 W" C% r z5 v- w. Q 9.5.1 Test of yarn unevenness/纱线不匀的测试 99
4 a2 C I; ^$ A m' J. |7 | 9.5.2 Reasons for yarn unevenness/纱线不匀的原因 100
7 ?3 j9 {; C6 O, M, w& O+ ^ 9.6 Classification of yarn quality/纱线质量分析 100
; J6 Y ~) x$ X- N1 N Questions/思考题 100& {( P- X( `1 G
Part Ⅳ Textile Fabrics/织物 102
6 q# k* y% w/ U4 U& y O6 E Chapter 10 Woven Fabrics/机织物 102* U3 ^4 g# k! ~; d; J% L! R8 I
10.1 Making woven fabrics/织制机织物 1027 h2 O5 w& F$ S# _# y
10.1.1 The loom/织机 102! [3 h$ f2 Q9 N+ u
10.1.2 Loom type/织机类型 104
8 ?& R6 a- y: F# q 10.1.3 Loom motions/织机运动 104
; R9 v1 _# v0 ? z 10.1.4 Electronics in weaving/电子技术在织机中的应用 105$ w$ c5 a1 E# e- a- |* S" C$ j
10.1.5 The selvage/布边 105
: f+ I8 {9 d5 p, j7 }4 c4 B 10.2 Warp yarns and filling yarns/经纱和纬纱 105
/ B! Z5 {2 [5 f 10.2.1 Identification/鉴别 1061 y4 @# e+ Y# i3 E0 g
10.3 Face and back/正面与反面 106/ X: C! f& A9 E* q
10.3.1 Reasons for differenee/存在差异的原因 107
# A# o7 E T( Z! V. l* Y 10.3.2 Caution/应用的要点 107
. d+ |8 A: U0 G" E( D3 y! \ 10.4 Top and bottom/顶端和底端 107
: w+ {' U2 i. P U; J 10.4.1 Reasons for difference/存在差异的原因 107
# c1 z1 ^) b: S2 H2 z 10.5 Weave floats/组织浮线 108
, q4 P; i( k! c6 N" v) q) H' M 10.6 Basic weaves/基本组织 108
+ j1 h) ] ]7 [1 q- U# Y 10.6.1 Plain weave/平纹组织 108" y( @2 f) }0 e7 H# o' S0 s8 O
10.6.2 Twill weave/斜纹组织 109
8 j8 A5 O5 \: o& T% w6 g 10.6.3 Satin weave/缎纹组织 1113 F z& Q, a: @
10.7 Fabric performance and characteristics/织物性能和参数 112
8 b5 w5 t& d4 @ 10.7.1 Fabric width/幅宽 112& z" D+ a. i% t6 g" W
10.7.2 Fabric weight/织物重量 112
, H. ~; A6 e8 j- O8 ~5 k J, ^5 a7 J 10.7.3 Fabric thickness/织物厚度 113' c- X8 [5 d- ^' B$ w' L, u
10.7.4 Fabric density/织物密度 113
9 Q% k5 e, W$ K# A 10.7.5 Fabric count/织物经纬密度 113
+ N6 x0 k( ^; n/ s6 G 10.7.6 Fabric defects/织物疵点 113
! Z# j2 I# T# V: k# e: b& V Questions/思考题 1132 H1 s" \& O) C" ^5 @
Chapter 11 Knitted Fabrics/针织物 114( e& P# g6 i. p N/ ?+ j
11.1 Making of knitted fabric/针织物形成 114. d# Z* A( C+ Z$ H9 E, z
11.1.1 The forming of knitted stitches/线圈的形成 114
^" F6 |. [; ]. L 11.1.2 Types of knitted stitches/线圈的种类 116
1 ~9 p5 Z6 u9 p: R1 P( S5 ?" U# b( { 11.2 Weft knits/纬编针织物 117
6 I- t- @3 u( |& j. B9 s 11.2.1 Jersey knit fabric/纬平针织物 117+ k! U X* ^% Q2 H, k
11.2.2 Rib knit fabric/罗纹针织物 118$ l5 A6 ~& _1 R/ q4 p
11.2.3 Purl knit fabric/双反面针织物 119+ v1 z: L# F# N3 S0 W
11.2.4 Double knits/双面针织物 120 p% o+ O. w! T+ a5 K" X# e# k
11.2.5 Full-fashioned knits/全成形针织物 1203 I2 [* s9 T1 o: G
11.3 Warp knits/经编针织物 121
: K1 C5 A9 X5 e! K" K2 G 11.3.1 Tricot fabrics/特里科经编针织物 121
. E* h! J. O' n" ]0 W( W" D/ k/ T 11.3.2 Raschel fabrics/拉舍尔经编针织物 1226 r) e( ]! W6 @( [1 i s% l' Q
11.4 Performance and characteristics/性能和参数 122
1 U/ W F1 x1 p: P7 Z. { Questions/思考题 123
2 } n9 R W6 j# e M0 H; c Chapter 12 Nonwoven Fabrics/非织造布 124
8 {; E b: @6 S; s& V 12.1 Introduction/导论 124
2 \4 |4 ?' |* |6 B5 g5 S 12.2 Manufacturing methods/生产方法 125
- x+ q5 ~) Q8 d9 z" s( g' H* J 12.2.1 Dry laid system/干法成网 1251 N6 y: o3 i9 ^" \
12.2.2 Wet laid system/湿法成网 125
" e& q+ i: ^1 K' a: S4 s/ D 12.2.3 Polymer laid system/聚合物挤压法 125$ u c9 j$ K4 r- Q' c
12.3 Various nonwovens/各种非织造布 125" E. Z. W4 o: V
12.3.1 Needle punched nonwovens/针刺法非织造布 1253 U7 r: a8 m3 h
12.3.2 Bonded web nonwovens/黏合法非织造布 126
' Q+ U' J$ Q/ k B1 i! d, z 12.3.3 Spunlaced nonwovens/射流喷网法非织造布 127
. W) m; c6 g0 ?9 g' O/ {+ g' P 12.3.4 Spunbonded nonwovens/纺粘法非织造布 128" L: g7 d, N+ {. e
12.3.5 Melt-blown nonwovens/熔喷法非织造布 129
9 S/ ^9 ~; |' a+ P! q5 Z7 y Questions/思考题 129
' o, B: z9 g, n: gPart Ⅴ Textile Testing/纺织品测试 130
3 Z0 ^; [* E; Q* W5 G8 P) v Chapter 13 General Test Methods/常规测试方法 130
" R# H/ _6 q7 _7 A( B8 L7 i% } 13.1 General fiber tests/纤维常规测试 130- F3 ]# X0 Y, E- P4 J0 p& c
13.1.1 Fiber identification/纤维鉴别 130
# q9 T0 H# A- ?, t% u/ E ?) C- I 13.1.2 Fiber length/纤维长度 134
) b+ |8 W4 w# [6 u 13.1.3 Fiber fineness or linear density/纤维细度或线密度 135% r" J- V+ d9 y3 j5 C$ e
13.1.4 Cross-sectional shape/截面形状 135" I& ^2 N/ l& Z
13.1.5 Crimp/卷曲 135
6 J- y6 G/ G0 R* I$ O% @ 13.1.6 Regain/回潮率 1365 b( W+ y" }( e& D0 W& U
13.1.7 Mechanical properties/机械性能 136
9 n& e1 [2 P& e3 x# B 13.1.8 Chemical characteristics/化学性能 136
5 q: d0 R; I2 k; S* C/ y 13.1.9 Surface characteristics/表面性能 136# n6 m; U7 v! \" h/ C
13.1.10 Density and specific gravity/密度和相对密度 137( P# K$ F& [& d& J5 w: M
13.2 Special tests for natural fibers/天然纤维的测试 137
; r# s2 {$ C6 Y! x0 b/ d0 u 13.2.1 Tests for cotton/棉纤维测试 137/ P; x) a: q) V. F9 ^( o% K# o7 A
13.2.2 Tests for wool/毛纤维测试 139
. s3 i7 O& [* W, D7 T) {" k' { 13.3 Testing of tensile properties/拉伸性能测试 140" T3 e5 r6 h; z; `3 J
13.3.1 Description of tensile proprieties/拉伸性能的描述 141. P- v b0 A2 x- q* l9 b: C+ ~
13.3.2 Fiber and yarn tensile testing/纤维和纱线拉伸性能的测试 146$ x' m& E6 x8 @) r1 B, u/ K+ g S/ x
13.3.3 Fabric tensile testing/织物拉伸性能测试方法 147
" g" l2 R+ d o Questions/思考题 1491 K0 |: O, C7 F: I' B: P
Chapter 14 Fabric Abrasion and Pilling/织物磨损与起球 1508 j; I- J+ w# x4 m! @! U
14.1 Types of abrasion/磨损的类型 1503 f' R+ Z; t2 a( d" X/ y
14.1.1 Abrasion between fabrics/织物间的磨损 150 v% W& x; v. h8 p0 O1 E) A) t
14.1.2 Abrasion between fabric and a nontextile surface/织物与非纤维制品表面磨损 1501 g9 c+ l) \, r! O
14.1.3 Abrasion within fabric/织物内部磨损 151
6 K ]9 H3 H% {. O1 \. @/ Y$ | Q S 14.1.4 Abrasion by foreign materials within the fabric/与织物内部其他材料的磨损 151
, i. e) H- Y, S# N2 I4 L0 ]* x 14.2 Factors affecting fabric abrasion resistance/影响耐磨性能的因素 151
z% I" n) q+ D" S+ f( S( D 14.2.1 Fabric properties/织物性能 1511 `5 B8 ~# f8 Q0 |
14.2.2 Other factors/其他因素 153* l& ]% s# m: u% c R8 t' ?
14.3 Abrasion testing/磨损测试 154
# ^5 u1 ^ C$ F$ c2 ?2 ]0 e+ _" }! l 14.3.1 Visual comparison with an unabraded specimen/与未磨损样品视觉对比 154
! j% F1 J- b: O/ u" D& r6 p 14.3.2 Number of cycles to produce a hole/产生磨损破洞需要的摩擦圈数 154
& l* z" g# b7 U! X6 S 14.3.3 Change in a physical property/物理性能的变化 154% D) z- d& U6 O! A/ u/ i. e
14.3.4 Microscopic examination/显微镜观测 155
: m8 u" q7 R: f+ X0 N2 b. \ i 14.4 Aesthetics of abrasion and wear/穿着和磨损对美感的影响 155* F; _' x |/ e7 n
14.4.1 Color changes caused by abrasion/磨损引起的颜色变化 155" c+ `" X( K( G2 i& x
14.4.2 Pilling/起球 156 C, n Y9 j& f& n& k0 \
Questions/思考题 157+ i8 ~9 U6 f( S) D
Chapter 15 Fabric Hand and Drape/织物手感与悬垂 158; B2 h6 X% q4 V
15.1 Fabric hand/织物手感 158
7 w# }$ I( h5 m# }! d) H 15.2 Fabric drape/织物悬垂 159
! b% f; a/ `* ]- k1 y! } 15.3 Measurement of hand and drape/手感与悬垂的评价 1619 M' k, ]/ }/ v9 `
15.3.1 Subjective evaluation/主观评定法 161
3 A t; R0 D( `5 _* e3 H 15.3.2 Quantitative measurement/定量评定法 162
: g3 K1 j. F3 D: Q/ Q. ~ 15.3.3 Kawabata evaluation system/KES评定法 163
/ A& h! d* F5 Z. \( g: c; a, e Questions/思考题 1632 T( i3 _: c/ H* \
Chapter 16 Fabric Colorfastness/织物染色牢度 164+ \& F( k1 T# i8 X5 I# s
16.1 Evaluation of color and colorfastness/颜色和染色牢度评定方法 164. Q( B; i/ k) n5 l% W
16.2 Colorfastness tests/染色牢度测试 164& F) Z1 i4 Z( | s7 f8 o7 A5 W
16.2.1 Colorfastness to crocking/耐摩擦色牢度 164( g+ H1 M6 w. y. m" `& j9 c4 U# V
16.2.2 Colorfastness to laundering and bleaching/耐洗涤和耐漂白色牢 165
; Y+ O5 X" n+ k( K, f1 A1 Q 16.2.3 Colorfastness to drycleaning/耐干洗色牢度 166
% i* s, M: Y8 K 16.2.4 Colorfastness to perspiration/耐汗渍色牢度 1662 L8 P) L3 A& [" |' h4 p# H% u Z
16.2.5 Colorfastness to water/耐水浸色牢度 166
: o) q) e: [3 T1 k5 F! o [ 16.2.6 Colorfastness to light/耐光照色牢度 167 D f4 E) F" w6 l
16.2.7 Colorfastness to atmospheric contaminants/耐空气污染色牢度 1686 i' d! g/ c& i0 Y
Questions/思考题 1683 ?, S7 M- h. ?
Chapter 17 Fabric Flammability/织物可燃性 169, P- w; T2 b% j0 O+ A
17.1 Flammability standards/可燃性标准 1699 ~3 U5 Q2 `/ k$ t# Q; H5 ~5 s
17.2 Properties affecting flammability/影响可燃性的因素 1699 F" G+ `0 Z( w0 {" _8 E! u
17.3 Flammability testing/可燃性测试 171
6 ^6 n6 F2 \. Q! f1 u; L: K& j 17.3.1 Forty-five degree angle test/45°燃烧测试法 1712 N% E' s3 S! O
17.3.2 Vertical flame tests/垂直燃烧测试法 172
0 { q+ B, v3 a# F8 T 17.3.3 Carpet testing/地毯测试 172
( F# S7 s1 A' @6 O 17.3.4 Cigarette tests/卷烟点燃测试 172# B6 @" `. b% H# d7 w
17.3.5 Other standard flammability tests/其他可燃性测试 173: M) k0 ?; d$ V$ q
Questions/思考题 1739 M# l$ V$ ` D, d( ~- h
Chapter 18 Comfort of Textiles/纺织品舒适性 174
h5 o" ]2 }5 m; l& \ 18.1 Physical phenomena affecting thermal comfort/影响热舒适性能的物理现象 174
/ |# b8 I9 g, D0 R# V8 s" F 18.1.1 Heat transfer/热传递 1747 ]8 S8 N2 \9 \! }
18.1.2 Moisture transfer/湿传递 175
9 T8 }& j- \6 J/ u4 w { 18.1.3 Water resistance/抗水性 175
/ G0 n$ @7 c9 _! o _ 18.1.4 Air transfer/透气性 176
* `* ~( O3 K0 \# d8 U0 I: u; g 18.1.5 Porosity and cover factor/多孔性和覆盖系数 176# p$ |$ N2 _. J+ V
18.1.6 Electrostatic propensity/静电 177% N0 \. a0 b F$ I- t5 T
18.2 Evaluations of textile properties related to comfort/与舒适性相关的纺织品性能评价 177
4 F* b+ U& a# x& | 18.2.1 Heat transfer/热传递 178( P. Q6 ]8 |7 q. Y$ I. P6 C! r
18.2.2 Moisture properties/湿传递性能 179
9 j) X% y. ~, k/ [ 18.2.3 Air permeability/透气性 179
1 y" x/ f, `' i; i8 P3 b) g7 G1 F 18.2.4 Porosity/孔隙率 180
( X. t8 A Z5 j# r1 a9 E& j+ j 18.2.5 Electrostatic tests/静电测试 180: S# z5 Z% ]: z4 o1 i1 l4 P
Questions/思考题 180
5 t0 p- d7 v/ e0 J2 s U' ]Appendix/附录 181
6 f" A* ?" Y$ b M7 L AATCC:AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS/美国纺织化学家与染色家协会 181, J7 u; {# w) |% [3 ^
ASTM:AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR TESTING AND MATERIALS/美国材料试验学会 184- R: ^- i" l B# c+ b
Vocabulary/词汇表 189( V! O9 [+ S: n
References/参考文献 197
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