
纺织材料学(双语教材),刘妍,熊磊,PDF。普通高等教育“十一五”国家级规划教材(本科),纺织工程专业双语教材,电子目录,14M。9 Q3 Q4 k6 w6 j. l6 v# p
( {6 {& d. s9 r- |# [- L( z' p内容提要& J, j2 H* p, S" }/ V& z! h) E
本书讨论了纤维、纱线与织物(包括机织物、针织物及非织造布)的结构、机械性能、物理性能及使用性能。涉及的纤维势括天然纤维(如棉、毛、麻、丝等)、传统化学纤维及新型化学纤维。本书同时介绍了纤维、纱线和织物的各种标准测试方法(包括国际上常用的ASTM, AATCC及GB等方法),并讨论了与各种测试方法有关的测试原理及对测试结果的影响因素。8 S( t9 C/ {$ ^4 p! M( ^( J
本书可供高等纺织院校纺织、服装相关专业的本科生及研究生作为《纺织材料学》的双语教材或专业英语教材,也可供其他专业师生、纺织贸易专业人员和科研及生产单位的技术人员参考。
' o4 r+ Z- Q/ q% G- p! n& j" W2 z/ X目录7 e, _3 V! r" u
Part Ⅰ An Introduction to Textiles/纺织入门 18
+ ?3 L( {' ^7 c$ d% X, \" z" ^9 F Chapter 1 Introduction/介绍 18
) B/ F. J K X# ] 1.1 ASTM Standard Terminology Relating to Textiles/ASTM纺织标准术语 18
* o1 P& m+ u4 o" Y7 W1 } T 1.2 Fiber history/纤维历史 26
. x$ J5 Z4 ]9 e$ M4 t+ E2 E+ t 1.2.1 Natural fibers/天然纤维 26
- H1 e+ N6 m+ ` o 1.2.2 Man-made fibers/化学纤维 27
: N% @& y: E) O4 {3 m Questions/思考题 30
6 `: N% x& g1 N% ]Part Ⅱ Textile Fibers/纺织纤维 32
3 ?1 j( O; @; @: o Chapter 2 Natural Cellulosic Fibers/天然纤维素纤维 32
: z/ s; H1 g: @4 f7 R6 T; d: }! h 2.1 Cotton/棉 33
T: o! k8 R3 x4 U# ~$ ~ 2.1.1 Nature of cotton/棉花的种类 33' D; L, { B5 P
2.1.2 Classification/分类 34
( s$ q' w/ s& J/ @' a" L# m' s4 {5 a7 U 2.1.3 Growth and structure of cotton/棉纤维的生长与结构 34
; d$ R" _# Y% M8 b* @ 2.1.4 Maturity/成熟度 36
1 j, F5 z( x9 a- ^6 P 2.1.5 Cotton properties/棉纤维的性能 38
& d' U( r$ ]5 ~* I0 W: | 2.1.6 Cotton classification/棉花分级 39
. N. @. O! L6 C! N" x6 T( y 2.2 Bast fibers/韧皮纤维 40
! ?( K' t9 ~0 S: E1 q! y/ }6 ~. N" H 2.2.1 Flax (linen)/亚麻,亚麻织物 41" U& i% ?" \! A' C9 c, x y
2.2.2 Ramie/苎麻 43
% A+ u9 R6 M# t6 J7 D 2.2.3 Hemp/汉麻 44
5 g6 X7 ?6 ^2 t- v# B/ B/ W 2.2.4 Jute/黄麻 44! }% ]+ F7 X: N. H/ n
Questions/思考题 45
4 g: T. {; z8 ?3 Z. A Chapter 3 Natural Protein Fibers/天然蛋白质纤维 46+ z, b/ r! }5 D) F0 Q4 _
3.1 Wool/绵羊毛 46" s) Y* C; n# R3 c0 _3 T* E0 w
3.1.1 Wool production and history/羊毛生产和历史 46- n7 r: d& a; j
3.1.2 Wool grading/羊毛分级 478 O! R2 h: C' s/ B/ P% i
3.1.3 Wool structure/羊毛结构 47
$ n0 j3 d9 B' X% J3 F" I( n$ c 3.1.4 Wool properties/羊毛性能 48
( x' S. _1 B' b) R4 V) p 3.2 Specialty animal fibers/特种动物毛 51+ J& Z9 C0 C* i- {
3.3 Silk/丝 52
( ~; m/ }. P0 ?9 | Questions/思考题 544 }1 I" `: @' U
Chapter 4 Man-made Fibers/化学纤维 55
) N' A8 |/ N% H& Z 4.1 Manufacturing processing of fiber/纤维生产工艺 55
; n7 R* l) p( k/ b& W/ E+ l 4.1.1 Wet spinning/湿法纺丝 56% `; x" h. M1 u8 E6 o( l2 N/ c3 A" G
4.1.2 Dry spinning/干法纺丝 562 O, B1 J: g5 }" a5 f9 w/ {
4.1.3 Melt spinning/熔体法纺丝 56
/ S* o0 ?% [" _ 4.1.4 Gel spinning/凝胶纺丝 57- H: [: z2 h" ?5 b" ~" T
4.2 Regenerated fibers/再生纤维 57
3 a0 _* @9 E, T+ e 4.2.1 Acetate/醋酯纤维 579 k/ z- t- W$ O8 Y; Y
4.2.2 Triacetate/三醋酯纤维 59
: a ?. e1 A3 c6 W a 4.2.3 Viscose fibers/粘胶纤维 59- [' w6 M! K* h$ Y- P
4.3 Synthetic fibers/合成纤维 60( n- _% z9 Y* o- W1 W* L
4.3.1 Acrylic/腈纶 60
0 j( M. F& M3 I% m2 R/ f; o$ K3 Q 4.3.2 Modacrylic/改性腈纶 61
. M4 }8 O: F! I1 |/ m, l! ` 4.3.3 Nylon/锦纶 61% R% c6 [" D7 j
4.3.4 Polyester/涤纶 62$ Y% |9 ~ n0 u" p0 t
4.3.5 PBI/聚苯并咪唑纤维 63
3 T! k0 Y8 C k 4.3.6 Vinal/聚乙烯醇纤维 63
N; R0 t$ S2 E9 u) x' V$ B, J 4.3.7 Olefin/聚烯烃纤维 633 t" F; }! v: A9 S, j
4.3.8 Aramid/芳纶 64* w% b2 e8 J% V& h4 R
4.3.9 Lycra/莱卡 64
( D2 ]. R" @' E+ `) d6 t$ l* B 4.4 Other man-made fibers/其他化学纤维 663 c' n' J# C& E E; y: i
4.4.1 Glass/玻璃纤维 66
0 S# a8 V' T7 d- ]4 i 4.4.2 Metallic/金属纤维 67
3 u/ t$ x# C* `& ~8 w+ } Questions/思考题 67* k; m0 Y9 A! k- w# r6 g' o
Chapter 5 New Fibers/新型纤维 68+ p P. n0 l9 S- Q
5.1 Carbon fibers/碳纤维 68% C0 i, X, k% b4 G
5.2 Fluorocarbon/氟碳纤维 68
, i& d' S) h2 R: ` 5.3 Lyocell fibers(Tencel)/莱塞尔纤维 68
/ [; B" T& g" J: ]4 A 5.4 High-wet-modulus fibers/高湿模量纤维 69
# F6 l3 u3 }4 t/ g 5.4.1 Modal fibers/莫代尔纤维 696 W3 g9 f, J8 z' U4 K
5.4.2 Richcel/丽赛纤维 70
- A6 _" j' O. o% a; a8 B 5.5 Soybean protein composite fibers/大豆蛋白复合纤维 70' F; s9 V3 E7 v- M1 |6 |4 ~' r
5.6 PLA fiber/聚左旋乳酸纤维 71+ P4 `9 h0 o7 H
5.7 Heterogenous fibers/复合纤维 71" Z+ }4 `3 u# @, C8 e; n, F6 a
5.7.1 Bicomponent or multicomponent/双组分或多组分 72' X( Q0 M# S" S5 ]2 U- P" t" W
5.7.2 Biconstituent or multiconstituent/双成分或多成分 735 U( q7 S( R. U, S( P+ e2 u
5.7.3 Matrix or matrix-fibril/基质型纤维 73
$ m* x5 Q5 v4 c; k9 h 5.8 Differential fibers/差别化纤维 74% j. m& _* ~: b* X K) J4 \& r
5.9 Functional fibers/功能性纤维 74
) h8 Y" r, B, I 5.10 High performance fibers/高性能纤维 74; c( ]% n* Q- @( ]2 v$ |' o1 q
Questions/思考题 74
4 |( C1 K3 y; O3 c8 w# l0 B' G Chapter 6 The Property of Absorbing Moisture/吸湿性 75% X* Z4 T) c8 S2 J* U
6.1 Orientation and crystallization/取向与结晶 75
7 h ~$ t1 W9 s" D/ ^2 f 6.2 Moisture sorption/吸湿性 75
3 `/ z4 o( G: y! U B 6.2.1 Regain and moisture content/回潮率与含水率 753 c6 I9 m6 @) B* j' g! T; Q7 L7 E+ V
6.2.2 Relation between regain and relative humidity/回潮率与相对湿度的关系 75
5 Q, \# C/ Y! Z; {# i. s- l 6.2.3 Comparison of various materials/不同材料吸湿性的对比 763 g% h/ [+ S0 J
6.2.4 Theories of moisture sorption/吸湿理论 78
7 H4 ?1 u* w1 _" G9 i Questions/思考题 80; C/ @$ t6 }( i; R/ Q( x, h. A
Chapter 7 Other Physical Properties of Textile Fibers/纤维的其他物理性能 81
: H, g+ G% F$ `, O f 7.1 Electronic properties/电学性能 81
: w( ?# U; i8 i/ g3 `# ?9 @, B8 E6 P4 l 7.1.1 Definitions/定义 81) F5 {, G8 P; Y
7.2 Optical properties/光学性能 82$ N/ X* f/ Y# V, q7 g
7.3 Thermal properties/热学性能 83
' ?6 d' N" y/ t9 _% O. F$ N. {# W 7.3.1 Thermal parameters/热力学参数 83
, A, i; i J1 P( A 7.3.2 A comparison of temperature effects/温度效应比较 834 \6 }$ j. Z7 q
Questions/思考题 83! Z# N- `) A/ f- q( l
Part Ⅲ Textile Yarns/纺织纱线 841 C9 B: Y6 J& c9 p' x, Y0 }4 }
Chapter 8 Yarn Processing and Construction/纱线制造与结构 84
$ @& _! k5 R( v/ U+ @8 Q& m$ z 8.1 Spun yarns/短纤纱 85
8 b) I3 F: s2 H1 Y* P0 b% ` 8.2 Filament yarns/长丝纱 85' S3 t6 E. k, G* c
8.3 Methods of yarn processing/纺纱方法 85
/ e; E; J4 B8 W+ P! K& A4 R 8.3.1 Ring-spinning/环锭纺 86
& e9 ?% S5 y) _9 K$ _8 Q 8.3.2 New methods of yarn processing/新型纺纱方法 86% o. y3 T3 b. k. H( c8 [3 D
8.4 Single and ply yarns/单纱和股线 89
4 S2 j; Q/ o: C# p" c; c9 D* J 8.5 Special types of yarn/特种纱线 90
: [; W- U( w7 C- ~6 N, ~ 8.5.1 Fancy yarns/花式纱 90& V& ?' }0 ~' a0 x% O3 C$ @
8.5.2 Stretch yarns/弹力纱 91
5 ^; F, {8 b* { 8.5.3 Textured yarns 变形纱线 91
. u- k/ @9 L& L, f* R9 V7 d) ? 8.6 Blends and mixtures yarns/纱线混纺与混用 92
, P. d8 `! I8 [( f: j9 J; a" m4 N! z Questions/思考题 93$ ~4 c; x# i$ q9 y% q5 k
Chapter 9 Yarn Properties/纱线性能 94. X* l9 d5 b9 N; g
9.1 Yarn number/纱线细度 94
( p7 E: |5 s7 I6 [9 ^7 r# L4 O# q. ~ 9.1.1 Denier system/旦数 94" A# q3 |; L9 t8 {
9.1.2 Yarn count system/纱线英制支数 94& e, S. c+ u" \, y+ U
9.1.3 Tex system/线密度 95" G' B9 Y1 U% z. T
9.1.4 Metric numbering system/公制支数 95
0 X) t* L! q7 z 9.1.5 Conversion in different systems/不同系统之间的换算 95" j. ]% E. v- \! o* f# k
9.2 Ply yarn counts and singles equivalent/股线支数与单纱支数 95
' d( A3 c h( v8 q/ v! t+ b 9.3 Yarn twist/纱线捻度 96' ^4 X6 e% O; o& P$ I. h! P6 @
9.4 Yarn hairiness/纱线毛羽 97" X; S; r% q. y
9.4.1 Hairiness test method/毛羽测试方法 981 {1 O4 A- z& e9 U6 |) H, C
9.4.2 Factors affecting hairiness/影响毛羽的因素 98; h& W5 \" z1 u; J
9.5 Yarn unevenness/纱线不匀 99
: [/ Y6 K& l3 C2 G4 A8 T0 A7 [ 9.5.1 Test of yarn unevenness/纱线不匀的测试 99; \. L# f( H$ z1 f
9.5.2 Reasons for yarn unevenness/纱线不匀的原因 100
1 v; @5 l" P3 {* \- O7 [ 9.6 Classification of yarn quality/纱线质量分析 100
% Y8 G. g: X5 V$ K/ ` Z Questions/思考题 1005 O7 a% `( v# f
Part Ⅳ Textile Fabrics/织物 102% d& h/ J# e% A: U7 z, k
Chapter 10 Woven Fabrics/机织物 1028 f6 R6 U+ A/ }- A
10.1 Making woven fabrics/织制机织物 102
0 G% q, \0 A' T6 O: z; Y: \- A8 F 10.1.1 The loom/织机 102. o) M" ?7 G2 ^! b
10.1.2 Loom type/织机类型 1043 `5 p3 C: ^+ n% Y5 I- Y( x
10.1.3 Loom motions/织机运动 104
$ C6 Q. r+ K7 g6 y 10.1.4 Electronics in weaving/电子技术在织机中的应用 105
; i: y5 } @* d8 H# `8 ^" b* X1 g 10.1.5 The selvage/布边 1051 J/ d8 x, P. v) {# b
10.2 Warp yarns and filling yarns/经纱和纬纱 1051 a7 F: e0 T8 N6 ]. D4 ]! j$ D
10.2.1 Identification/鉴别 106
7 p5 X$ W, I$ I0 L& P 10.3 Face and back/正面与反面 106
: F7 V' P0 a: A6 N, t# ] 10.3.1 Reasons for differenee/存在差异的原因 1070 g R( M! g8 T# r1 V& n9 [9 n9 R) e
10.3.2 Caution/应用的要点 107
% ^3 d; h" j) B: E- ^7 w 10.4 Top and bottom/顶端和底端 107
* z1 x( ]" {+ n! B" x1 P 10.4.1 Reasons for difference/存在差异的原因 107
6 R1 Z, c2 b% E: d( L2 T 10.5 Weave floats/组织浮线 108
" X: A8 U$ V$ U) z4 Q$ X 10.6 Basic weaves/基本组织 108) n" m6 I9 d5 ^1 I! T- V: I
10.6.1 Plain weave/平纹组织 108
8 @# Q4 E" N. q5 j* o$ Q$ j 10.6.2 Twill weave/斜纹组织 109
4 b: f, K8 g0 z3 X/ [ 10.6.3 Satin weave/缎纹组织 111
( k" a$ G' X" o4 N5 h j- m/ e, H 10.7 Fabric performance and characteristics/织物性能和参数 112! ^0 q4 ~, U \) ?/ `
10.7.1 Fabric width/幅宽 112# ~- p/ D" o+ _% y
10.7.2 Fabric weight/织物重量 112
" [; R7 G+ t$ t) V" _. p 10.7.3 Fabric thickness/织物厚度 1134 y1 {1 L! J# k7 D
10.7.4 Fabric density/织物密度 113
% U: v" j- p8 [' z( e9 Q 10.7.5 Fabric count/织物经纬密度 113% O+ ^7 n3 m, w# r- l1 }
10.7.6 Fabric defects/织物疵点 113
7 l4 ^& l. X+ s& M9 x Questions/思考题 113% p" v5 Y3 O5 p
Chapter 11 Knitted Fabrics/针织物 114
- ^' [! M' i$ p9 [ 11.1 Making of knitted fabric/针织物形成 1144 R. K: q; u) J4 h2 ^0 p! Q
11.1.1 The forming of knitted stitches/线圈的形成 114& C) I O# t# ]* N# e- L
11.1.2 Types of knitted stitches/线圈的种类 116
7 Z+ Q. a0 k1 [* G 11.2 Weft knits/纬编针织物 117! m* Q! c2 X. s9 @2 W T0 _& g- r
11.2.1 Jersey knit fabric/纬平针织物 117
: o. g. @$ \) |* `/ R2 \* ?4 N, S 11.2.2 Rib knit fabric/罗纹针织物 118+ R! ^1 h3 z; Q
11.2.3 Purl knit fabric/双反面针织物 119
; w5 a& o! O* t8 t6 g 11.2.4 Double knits/双面针织物 120
3 c" [2 }0 R$ ]" d6 ?9 p 11.2.5 Full-fashioned knits/全成形针织物 120
' W' m& n( t* r5 b* A5 H 11.3 Warp knits/经编针织物 121* L6 s7 b' j% `+ `4 ~4 V
11.3.1 Tricot fabrics/特里科经编针织物 121% p, Q9 _, k. E+ S" d8 G
11.3.2 Raschel fabrics/拉舍尔经编针织物 1224 f* e/ U2 H/ O2 P
11.4 Performance and characteristics/性能和参数 122
. X2 n2 n7 v4 k: }; U Questions/思考题 123
# i8 o D2 \& I I' W Chapter 12 Nonwoven Fabrics/非织造布 124- M0 o- {7 ^/ L0 w; v
12.1 Introduction/导论 124
8 q( y* p) F4 ?; v5 t8 A 12.2 Manufacturing methods/生产方法 125
5 H+ Y2 f1 a$ t( l/ W: c. K- F 12.2.1 Dry laid system/干法成网 1257 y* K9 Z/ E: _) D. \; G
12.2.2 Wet laid system/湿法成网 125* q4 C& G1 h! d Y. K
12.2.3 Polymer laid system/聚合物挤压法 125
$ V; p. n! T4 P; Q4 n* ^: F 12.3 Various nonwovens/各种非织造布 125& ]: X" |- e# p3 Y
12.3.1 Needle punched nonwovens/针刺法非织造布 125: G9 T# ^+ U% [$ ^ Y8 t8 a8 z4 C
12.3.2 Bonded web nonwovens/黏合法非织造布 1261 K2 e: M/ X3 ^7 C3 ?# d$ v
12.3.3 Spunlaced nonwovens/射流喷网法非织造布 127
0 Q. V6 x6 l7 \8 Y- D" e) l+ r/ p 12.3.4 Spunbonded nonwovens/纺粘法非织造布 1283 R v# A' q0 E& B: ]
12.3.5 Melt-blown nonwovens/熔喷法非织造布 129
+ _/ o+ O5 t+ @2 N, ? Questions/思考题 129
9 x. b! `) r. ?* G" g9 d" rPart Ⅴ Textile Testing/纺织品测试 130. v1 [" a5 m I
Chapter 13 General Test Methods/常规测试方法 130+ J+ O+ C( n" M- O5 R& b) G
13.1 General fiber tests/纤维常规测试 130" W6 b7 _& [8 j1 m+ Z- \0 ?
13.1.1 Fiber identification/纤维鉴别 1300 a0 Z5 i ^4 y; {/ q7 N3 U6 o# c% r
13.1.2 Fiber length/纤维长度 134
M# W# [7 }* ^2 E! v8 a" ?$ ]8 ` 13.1.3 Fiber fineness or linear density/纤维细度或线密度 1354 P$ f: i7 X2 }) D* W0 v# d
13.1.4 Cross-sectional shape/截面形状 135
9 l+ W7 C( S; Y& N1 \8 w0 R$ i 13.1.5 Crimp/卷曲 135
. D! F6 B8 Q" [! D0 @ 13.1.6 Regain/回潮率 136
; ?0 D1 E' s" I. r8 \ 13.1.7 Mechanical properties/机械性能 1360 U; a+ \- R( t
13.1.8 Chemical characteristics/化学性能 136/ Q9 e% E5 H0 }8 e1 `0 c
13.1.9 Surface characteristics/表面性能 136
% m# }; [( g3 W i: i1 Z/ r 13.1.10 Density and specific gravity/密度和相对密度 137
6 d: G2 X' ?! Q' k" [. g g 13.2 Special tests for natural fibers/天然纤维的测试 1374 C( s% Q' `; i' m% {! v/ D2 C4 _
13.2.1 Tests for cotton/棉纤维测试 137
5 v: u, W5 v+ ~0 J- c 13.2.2 Tests for wool/毛纤维测试 139: z2 w% w' A/ \, d
13.3 Testing of tensile properties/拉伸性能测试 140- n) L ?- u- ? L* K# L2 K. Z
13.3.1 Description of tensile proprieties/拉伸性能的描述 1419 S: i# z4 t2 {# w# D
13.3.2 Fiber and yarn tensile testing/纤维和纱线拉伸性能的测试 146
$ B ^, V+ P4 e 13.3.3 Fabric tensile testing/织物拉伸性能测试方法 147% ~8 i" [7 y n! o
Questions/思考题 149: T1 ]! R- [' y' _7 L
Chapter 14 Fabric Abrasion and Pilling/织物磨损与起球 150
: s' Q; @% @: _9 p; ]$ G* x9 U 14.1 Types of abrasion/磨损的类型 1503 [6 v9 H- y5 M: R+ D- l9 q# v
14.1.1 Abrasion between fabrics/织物间的磨损 150& e% D3 j% C( M
14.1.2 Abrasion between fabric and a nontextile surface/织物与非纤维制品表面磨损 150
! L- a7 P4 e, F2 S+ t 14.1.3 Abrasion within fabric/织物内部磨损 151
n/ I$ d, U3 N6 g$ E- X9 R1 s 14.1.4 Abrasion by foreign materials within the fabric/与织物内部其他材料的磨损 1518 T* c4 l9 W1 w+ O' y7 C/ ?
14.2 Factors affecting fabric abrasion resistance/影响耐磨性能的因素 151/ @6 d r: N% {, y3 S
14.2.1 Fabric properties/织物性能 151
) \* K. J' s. s! c! g 14.2.2 Other factors/其他因素 153, @2 r# i' G8 m0 s" t" n
14.3 Abrasion testing/磨损测试 154
2 u6 L) b! \/ y 14.3.1 Visual comparison with an unabraded specimen/与未磨损样品视觉对比 1540 \) e/ a% h6 \- B0 n% g0 \
14.3.2 Number of cycles to produce a hole/产生磨损破洞需要的摩擦圈数 1547 B9 E, G' l5 i# S7 {; `: g
14.3.3 Change in a physical property/物理性能的变化 154' e& U9 M/ D2 O8 F$ X' D" z
14.3.4 Microscopic examination/显微镜观测 155
! n/ Z; f% v9 s0 F 14.4 Aesthetics of abrasion and wear/穿着和磨损对美感的影响 155
% K1 b0 G9 X( R" @: m, q' M 14.4.1 Color changes caused by abrasion/磨损引起的颜色变化 155
2 B+ X0 b- [3 k4 B9 g) u7 b 14.4.2 Pilling/起球 1563 N/ e0 D6 u4 ^ |8 X; u0 f) A4 [. ]" G
Questions/思考题 157
) Y' [6 ^, z+ j ~/ F# Y: h Chapter 15 Fabric Hand and Drape/织物手感与悬垂 158
, x! |' W6 I! f4 Q# Q) S: l% p1 J 15.1 Fabric hand/织物手感 158
; V7 x* V4 s8 G6 l- L7 T 15.2 Fabric drape/织物悬垂 159
3 N) @3 L2 D4 A# N 15.3 Measurement of hand and drape/手感与悬垂的评价 161
$ i8 X1 a6 s% I 15.3.1 Subjective evaluation/主观评定法 161
* |! [( k+ {6 |; l# t$ l 15.3.2 Quantitative measurement/定量评定法 162" |, W- [* ?- |3 k- `
15.3.3 Kawabata evaluation system/KES评定法 163: l. [7 M* v+ O
Questions/思考题 163
2 {% s0 f* X( C9 E7 N2 _ Chapter 16 Fabric Colorfastness/织物染色牢度 164
7 P, |0 t5 R n% H" l [" u# n 16.1 Evaluation of color and colorfastness/颜色和染色牢度评定方法 1647 A5 X0 H- w o
16.2 Colorfastness tests/染色牢度测试 164, c) ~; l: o; u- \4 n+ }# s
16.2.1 Colorfastness to crocking/耐摩擦色牢度 1642 z, {* r& [+ X3 D( b6 Q7 Z
16.2.2 Colorfastness to laundering and bleaching/耐洗涤和耐漂白色牢 165
' c, T# v/ g3 U 16.2.3 Colorfastness to drycleaning/耐干洗色牢度 166
4 A! g( p% M$ Q, _+ j9 h$ C. ] 16.2.4 Colorfastness to perspiration/耐汗渍色牢度 166
" y; C- Y5 d/ a9 N# Y0 f! U* _ 16.2.5 Colorfastness to water/耐水浸色牢度 166
4 C2 g- j% ^. P/ B9 p 16.2.6 Colorfastness to light/耐光照色牢度 167& Z5 b" @- x0 d0 z. W5 A
16.2.7 Colorfastness to atmospheric contaminants/耐空气污染色牢度 168
0 _$ ]# @0 x3 g% |1 z Questions/思考题 168
m, C5 B I) T: i Chapter 17 Fabric Flammability/织物可燃性 169- U, w8 S0 [" ^
17.1 Flammability standards/可燃性标准 169
& @( d* y. I* f6 V% X5 [5 F 17.2 Properties affecting flammability/影响可燃性的因素 169
- U8 S- q' c- f; C* ^2 T 17.3 Flammability testing/可燃性测试 1716 l5 v' C& ]9 ?
17.3.1 Forty-five degree angle test/45°燃烧测试法 171
/ e& @+ k; k' f% t4 j 17.3.2 Vertical flame tests/垂直燃烧测试法 172, C2 w8 z4 D' R8 U5 z0 z: N
17.3.3 Carpet testing/地毯测试 172
) N7 w9 g6 n, w9 x: O. d 17.3.4 Cigarette tests/卷烟点燃测试 1723 x$ C; Z" U3 ~ b* V1 [9 S
17.3.5 Other standard flammability tests/其他可燃性测试 173
& N9 l) P; ~4 [8 } Questions/思考题 173
F9 ]# k! S0 L& x Chapter 18 Comfort of Textiles/纺织品舒适性 1742 g4 C8 P8 c I, a9 N
18.1 Physical phenomena affecting thermal comfort/影响热舒适性能的物理现象 174
! A3 f9 A6 L8 Q! r0 U$ {* D' O 18.1.1 Heat transfer/热传递 174+ ^6 u4 N3 n G0 F
18.1.2 Moisture transfer/湿传递 175
+ j* f4 {* C; X' B6 s' h" D- ~# q! `( h 18.1.3 Water resistance/抗水性 175" }+ q! K4 t. i; q6 |
18.1.4 Air transfer/透气性 176
- G4 N# _* { q1 L8 Q: ~ S# @ 18.1.5 Porosity and cover factor/多孔性和覆盖系数 176
- w+ G4 V) r( t4 d }8 `% S# V: c 18.1.6 Electrostatic propensity/静电 177
0 [' q0 E0 M& x1 d" S- ` 18.2 Evaluations of textile properties related to comfort/与舒适性相关的纺织品性能评价 177. L- k X1 D; E$ w; m
18.2.1 Heat transfer/热传递 178
5 P; H0 l/ @7 f 18.2.2 Moisture properties/湿传递性能 179
1 ^- `# @* o/ B% e* U6 V 18.2.3 Air permeability/透气性 179
, Y$ V8 {' y+ `+ X; d" R$ L 18.2.4 Porosity/孔隙率 180
_9 H: M( K- O 18.2.5 Electrostatic tests/静电测试 1804 r$ \( U% B9 ^, Z! N
Questions/思考题 180; o3 ~( s: a! X/ v/ \5 i/ B
Appendix/附录 181! K' D5 _2 @1 o. X% ?" S
AATCC:AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS/美国纺织化学家与染色家协会 181& n( ?; T' B- c1 j
ASTM:AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR TESTING AND MATERIALS/美国材料试验学会 184
- ?# k! z( o aVocabulary/词汇表 189
* M+ v3 ^5 F5 _$ R. J$ dReferences/参考文献 197" l. X' g% G7 D2 ^: |$ B, b- d
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