
纺织材料学(双语教材),刘妍,熊磊,PDF。普通高等教育“十一五”国家级规划教材(本科),纺织工程专业双语教材,电子目录,14M。3 d) i l3 H2 K" L5 r6 |
& c- p+ M, j! L' \3 X3 y4 ?内容提要
! M1 A/ L7 G7 f- h本书讨论了纤维、纱线与织物(包括机织物、针织物及非织造布)的结构、机械性能、物理性能及使用性能。涉及的纤维势括天然纤维(如棉、毛、麻、丝等)、传统化学纤维及新型化学纤维。本书同时介绍了纤维、纱线和织物的各种标准测试方法(包括国际上常用的ASTM, AATCC及GB等方法),并讨论了与各种测试方法有关的测试原理及对测试结果的影响因素。1 _" Q4 e. l: t9 K \4 Z
本书可供高等纺织院校纺织、服装相关专业的本科生及研究生作为《纺织材料学》的双语教材或专业英语教材,也可供其他专业师生、纺织贸易专业人员和科研及生产单位的技术人员参考。! a7 g8 E7 `' w0 R" k1 f
目录
/ f) x( j! z% W$ k( ~4 ^6 z' qPart Ⅰ An Introduction to Textiles/纺织入门 18
( F$ U7 r; i" k8 e' w: r3 ] Chapter 1 Introduction/介绍 18
d9 \' c( a6 c0 ] 1.1 ASTM Standard Terminology Relating to Textiles/ASTM纺织标准术语 18: n+ Y4 b4 B" x
1.2 Fiber history/纤维历史 26' V2 ^. o0 S: _$ j4 B+ k7 a* b
1.2.1 Natural fibers/天然纤维 26
1 e2 e4 t4 ]6 A) M, }) T 1.2.2 Man-made fibers/化学纤维 27; ~* q+ f, E# v) q5 p- [7 G' _
Questions/思考题 306 X* c. T5 G; j# b. [
Part Ⅱ Textile Fibers/纺织纤维 32
' i \( Z: j8 l: g Chapter 2 Natural Cellulosic Fibers/天然纤维素纤维 32, h; i6 [4 \) `/ L" j% t" Z
2.1 Cotton/棉 33$ \) c- b6 m' i/ R
2.1.1 Nature of cotton/棉花的种类 33
/ D% H; Y) H; u9 a6 Q$ b4 I 2.1.2 Classification/分类 34) g" n9 {8 H0 T+ z V/ h( d
2.1.3 Growth and structure of cotton/棉纤维的生长与结构 34
) N' f9 z" C! `! \% @, b } 2.1.4 Maturity/成熟度 36
6 f- I3 C( s) L! { s; r& h( c- e n% l 2.1.5 Cotton properties/棉纤维的性能 38
7 _4 w* Z5 ~# x6 T 2.1.6 Cotton classification/棉花分级 39
2 U: K! |1 i2 a0 C# I- \ 2.2 Bast fibers/韧皮纤维 40
- r# B( c& @4 m8 o/ P5 Z2 J6 p 2.2.1 Flax (linen)/亚麻,亚麻织物 41
! _' R! @) G% |: A, P" F! Y 2.2.2 Ramie/苎麻 43* |, Z/ W7 q; x
2.2.3 Hemp/汉麻 441 \- u) _' `3 T1 n1 m
2.2.4 Jute/黄麻 44, Z* w3 V% h% [4 _1 J7 [
Questions/思考题 45
/ _3 C9 g3 u" W/ R Chapter 3 Natural Protein Fibers/天然蛋白质纤维 46
; ^2 v: [/ |9 z" O0 ` 3.1 Wool/绵羊毛 46
/ _/ p, h8 l1 [6 _: t9 z 3.1.1 Wool production and history/羊毛生产和历史 46
5 `: I1 b4 X8 y6 ^ j2 x1 k$ \ 3.1.2 Wool grading/羊毛分级 47
2 m) U+ K( D. a% r1 I- R$ f* {8 C 3.1.3 Wool structure/羊毛结构 47
% R/ s" ]7 M/ ^6 r 3.1.4 Wool properties/羊毛性能 48
& n/ A0 W+ V! g/ a# [) F 3.2 Specialty animal fibers/特种动物毛 51
7 W5 j1 {- L( D: T3 z8 _ 3.3 Silk/丝 52
$ v' `3 g3 u/ V" W4 l& d, f Questions/思考题 546 Y; ?" i: H# z E9 }! y( Y
Chapter 4 Man-made Fibers/化学纤维 55
# b2 v8 {% C0 H; b 4.1 Manufacturing processing of fiber/纤维生产工艺 55
( C- q& c2 v4 ]: J 4.1.1 Wet spinning/湿法纺丝 56
- ?) ?2 O6 P3 S 4.1.2 Dry spinning/干法纺丝 565 K3 i$ P! o9 f# p) J2 t( I3 [( v
4.1.3 Melt spinning/熔体法纺丝 56( ^/ ?- E0 g) B, s+ X* |
4.1.4 Gel spinning/凝胶纺丝 57
/ B# s" n- P+ \8 ]- d 4.2 Regenerated fibers/再生纤维 57. [! N' m8 h4 ?2 k6 u x5 `
4.2.1 Acetate/醋酯纤维 57
4 a& v& ]" ^0 j/ p 4.2.2 Triacetate/三醋酯纤维 59
) G( j# U) A2 z9 c1 R, E1 [ 4.2.3 Viscose fibers/粘胶纤维 59
+ {3 A* I2 t) z 4.3 Synthetic fibers/合成纤维 60
2 n# g& N; \0 ^; m* F/ w& S4 N- f 4.3.1 Acrylic/腈纶 605 ?+ Y1 M7 F1 ~! Q
4.3.2 Modacrylic/改性腈纶 61
$ q( I+ v$ J( C4 B# b/ b4 W) r 4.3.3 Nylon/锦纶 61( a" \& d9 y$ [9 f" e% q$ j% I4 B
4.3.4 Polyester/涤纶 62" a# s' A6 x" \) f
4.3.5 PBI/聚苯并咪唑纤维 63
* ~/ @7 F# l% M0 U! M* ~4 T! d 4.3.6 Vinal/聚乙烯醇纤维 63
% `( E+ F% a* \! K2 ?- n/ n 4.3.7 Olefin/聚烯烃纤维 630 Q- k0 X+ T3 I. ]8 T
4.3.8 Aramid/芳纶 64+ F4 z8 L- G5 @
4.3.9 Lycra/莱卡 64
+ \6 {. r* b( n, k: c# Y 4.4 Other man-made fibers/其他化学纤维 66" L/ ~% e5 P& }- m2 Y( H+ O
4.4.1 Glass/玻璃纤维 66$ d" \9 }1 N3 [: \, u5 |( }
4.4.2 Metallic/金属纤维 67; R, V* o1 P/ G3 y5 X/ O
Questions/思考题 67; E! p0 a. r: U8 ~9 D$ I _. e/ ~7 }
Chapter 5 New Fibers/新型纤维 68$ W5 ~1 `" I7 Q' B& c% K" A
5.1 Carbon fibers/碳纤维 681 K: X# R1 x5 ]5 g0 x: h, ?
5.2 Fluorocarbon/氟碳纤维 68
; s( J( l, l: m4 q+ b3 f6 W; M 5.3 Lyocell fibers(Tencel)/莱塞尔纤维 68
' @/ V* _0 t0 S' u- O! F 5.4 High-wet-modulus fibers/高湿模量纤维 69" k- n3 H$ s& m" X$ |
5.4.1 Modal fibers/莫代尔纤维 69
( Q1 j3 N$ `; V6 }" c 5.4.2 Richcel/丽赛纤维 70
c; g7 @7 F; _! T' I0 }: x7 F& F3 w. r 5.5 Soybean protein composite fibers/大豆蛋白复合纤维 70/ s2 A+ z7 k r1 x2 x0 U4 ^$ ^- v, m
5.6 PLA fiber/聚左旋乳酸纤维 71
+ L# c; {+ m/ ^1 {9 p7 a1 m( f. `% w+ u 5.7 Heterogenous fibers/复合纤维 71
$ {: n; _4 C6 {# g5 [; F 5.7.1 Bicomponent or multicomponent/双组分或多组分 72
" A# i: p3 ]- [: @ 5.7.2 Biconstituent or multiconstituent/双成分或多成分 73
& o5 `/ p% a# e 5.7.3 Matrix or matrix-fibril/基质型纤维 73: l* L& I8 F2 X& h1 y7 f* r: B
5.8 Differential fibers/差别化纤维 743 A) m5 P% L H
5.9 Functional fibers/功能性纤维 74
6 r9 O; c+ j/ l' ^% Y6 V6 v 5.10 High performance fibers/高性能纤维 74% ]0 [% s5 ~$ j! w2 A, B4 }
Questions/思考题 742 f6 P; b1 a" ]3 K' a
Chapter 6 The Property of Absorbing Moisture/吸湿性 75
4 w/ a& V5 @4 b2 ] E$ p 6.1 Orientation and crystallization/取向与结晶 75
f) ~% @2 B: E% E1 q6 R5 E 6.2 Moisture sorption/吸湿性 75
# n, d3 x3 E% |7 M5 O 6.2.1 Regain and moisture content/回潮率与含水率 756 ^* ^& j6 I' R* C
6.2.2 Relation between regain and relative humidity/回潮率与相对湿度的关系 75' `/ P9 r) Q! M8 d% l0 U. o6 X0 f
6.2.3 Comparison of various materials/不同材料吸湿性的对比 765 j ^5 K- F+ r! {# A6 `
6.2.4 Theories of moisture sorption/吸湿理论 78( ^5 K- O8 t. ]2 o) g
Questions/思考题 80
3 C3 t" ~5 ?0 v Chapter 7 Other Physical Properties of Textile Fibers/纤维的其他物理性能 81/ F: H( E( U4 W5 r$ d
7.1 Electronic properties/电学性能 81( d- s2 V) g* [ v
7.1.1 Definitions/定义 81& j2 e8 Z* q+ q4 u& |
7.2 Optical properties/光学性能 82
K% M6 Y8 x6 e! e" F0 ]5 j( _ 7.3 Thermal properties/热学性能 83
2 ?6 `* N# q$ q- N3 Y9 f& Y& d 7.3.1 Thermal parameters/热力学参数 83
" ?+ i4 J% Y) {% p9 A 7.3.2 A comparison of temperature effects/温度效应比较 83. P7 ^' N) V# j; F' M% Q, K1 f; \! v" @
Questions/思考题 83
! ]3 M% C6 X- Z/ I; WPart Ⅲ Textile Yarns/纺织纱线 847 S0 W7 s3 x5 f1 ?$ o( [) V- o
Chapter 8 Yarn Processing and Construction/纱线制造与结构 84
$ ^+ D: [( [7 m5 ` 8.1 Spun yarns/短纤纱 85% b9 a& i. v2 F! M
8.2 Filament yarns/长丝纱 85
6 A8 O5 k) }9 u) `% v6 z- U 8.3 Methods of yarn processing/纺纱方法 85
H0 H- g2 r- C3 L 8.3.1 Ring-spinning/环锭纺 86
! t+ ~; o! \' P1 o- M! S5 r 8.3.2 New methods of yarn processing/新型纺纱方法 86
9 |! [; a: }; c3 |, t: f 8.4 Single and ply yarns/单纱和股线 89
: o- z. r: r( ~ 8.5 Special types of yarn/特种纱线 906 `! S6 l6 U ^0 v- a' U! k! b! \" R
8.5.1 Fancy yarns/花式纱 90! \" {3 s3 a3 ^# e
8.5.2 Stretch yarns/弹力纱 91( Z/ w4 P. q) N5 h' N; }& [6 B
8.5.3 Textured yarns 变形纱线 91
& N3 |. Z6 @& i: ^; t X 8.6 Blends and mixtures yarns/纱线混纺与混用 92
) W- ?0 n& K$ I! t( }- N Questions/思考题 932 ~( H0 n+ I. A( y( S
Chapter 9 Yarn Properties/纱线性能 946 F8 S1 l3 P: `2 m
9.1 Yarn number/纱线细度 949 R2 K/ @3 {1 [, j! [/ [- B& W
9.1.1 Denier system/旦数 94
0 Y1 O/ ^$ ^; M8 F. w5 [1 ~' g 9.1.2 Yarn count system/纱线英制支数 94
1 U- `: l) r: f2 H 9.1.3 Tex system/线密度 959 B, ~: n( h( @% h
9.1.4 Metric numbering system/公制支数 954 ]3 [$ H- \6 D& Y- Z6 d6 t
9.1.5 Conversion in different systems/不同系统之间的换算 95# P+ D' R- u# K0 I' g% O, m( {
9.2 Ply yarn counts and singles equivalent/股线支数与单纱支数 95
) v+ u; G" I m# ]8 O 9.3 Yarn twist/纱线捻度 963 t. A) v, P' l2 h$ k3 K
9.4 Yarn hairiness/纱线毛羽 974 \, U8 N" t5 L+ U8 C, j& K$ [
9.4.1 Hairiness test method/毛羽测试方法 98
4 b4 F4 Z% E0 Q, U( o5 q 9.4.2 Factors affecting hairiness/影响毛羽的因素 984 [/ l$ O" a: c7 E- l
9.5 Yarn unevenness/纱线不匀 99
$ f! n4 I- y/ j8 a$ }; } 9.5.1 Test of yarn unevenness/纱线不匀的测试 99
. L, a# y- i Q' r 9.5.2 Reasons for yarn unevenness/纱线不匀的原因 100
( R x% W) p: H# q% _$ ` 9.6 Classification of yarn quality/纱线质量分析 100
9 M) y. \5 Y% @) q0 x" P, f Questions/思考题 100
8 _% J3 s9 |3 U: N' w, P8 tPart Ⅳ Textile Fabrics/织物 102
4 R6 S0 h1 L$ [' E& z$ d/ | Chapter 10 Woven Fabrics/机织物 1022 O9 `) D. `- @5 j
10.1 Making woven fabrics/织制机织物 102, V1 E8 q1 e2 `" D$ [
10.1.1 The loom/织机 102
1 F7 ?6 Z' ]/ s% f 10.1.2 Loom type/织机类型 1042 e/ P8 D5 Y0 T. N
10.1.3 Loom motions/织机运动 104& C8 ^7 k; w9 r& f6 c7 B( k2 h
10.1.4 Electronics in weaving/电子技术在织机中的应用 105
, g/ I B# H* B# q* t7 W) b) V 10.1.5 The selvage/布边 105
2 J2 E1 g8 I/ v# t4 K" K 10.2 Warp yarns and filling yarns/经纱和纬纱 105
( ?3 y- Y$ k: p F6 U2 e0 t 10.2.1 Identification/鉴别 106
$ h9 {9 K0 @" G: w4 P 10.3 Face and back/正面与反面 1069 V9 E( Y9 Z* K9 i8 z, p
10.3.1 Reasons for differenee/存在差异的原因 107
9 ?* g$ X5 B$ R2 S6 r4 R0 d 10.3.2 Caution/应用的要点 107
: {- d2 k1 ^" C( u' |5 U9 H% w 10.4 Top and bottom/顶端和底端 107: T- X. B" N" }1 t8 r. n4 D3 y
10.4.1 Reasons for difference/存在差异的原因 107
" y! x9 [" t+ @; V 10.5 Weave floats/组织浮线 108
. I2 }; ~; y# F r5 ~* l 10.6 Basic weaves/基本组织 108 Z6 R6 U4 p! h I$ Z0 b
10.6.1 Plain weave/平纹组织 1081 x, i0 M* P' _! O# m" K# i
10.6.2 Twill weave/斜纹组织 109
2 }! R5 @! S- O- h6 H1 Q# `; }( X% x% O9 [" m 10.6.3 Satin weave/缎纹组织 111
4 r4 P5 Z7 c3 M& L0 \4 M. N 10.7 Fabric performance and characteristics/织物性能和参数 112* w: @1 }$ {- S7 X2 a1 p# |& x
10.7.1 Fabric width/幅宽 1122 L% g8 y9 R) _# Y: o
10.7.2 Fabric weight/织物重量 112
) Y' K6 Y, [2 m 10.7.3 Fabric thickness/织物厚度 113; P- o# V, X6 [5 e7 ?7 [
10.7.4 Fabric density/织物密度 113
) B6 X) ]% y9 ^+ W( { 10.7.5 Fabric count/织物经纬密度 113: [1 Z" i# @: s! b, k
10.7.6 Fabric defects/织物疵点 113
+ r8 m J: A. I! D' q/ y Questions/思考题 113$ b3 H6 K/ ?5 ^% K
Chapter 11 Knitted Fabrics/针织物 114
/ ?$ j( F5 M% }1 H. O 11.1 Making of knitted fabric/针织物形成 114
# V/ H& H7 i4 ` 11.1.1 The forming of knitted stitches/线圈的形成 114
; w3 l+ M6 L0 A+ r1 T6 ^4 k! N 11.1.2 Types of knitted stitches/线圈的种类 116
9 r! a3 t1 E0 ^$ h; g& @ 11.2 Weft knits/纬编针织物 117; P$ X. q; \4 ^) F H' U
11.2.1 Jersey knit fabric/纬平针织物 117
6 l: w/ W+ _, I( K, n 11.2.2 Rib knit fabric/罗纹针织物 118" _9 {. A% e! u- t- }
11.2.3 Purl knit fabric/双反面针织物 119
3 B# R! M2 H; Y# i. C 11.2.4 Double knits/双面针织物 120& h" ^3 p+ l" S! y9 r6 v
11.2.5 Full-fashioned knits/全成形针织物 1203 Z! |+ ?6 A* E& S
11.3 Warp knits/经编针织物 121& C1 z$ ]3 ?$ B/ f. Z5 J! n7 O8 ~
11.3.1 Tricot fabrics/特里科经编针织物 1218 [9 c5 A) M! V! E+ t+ r
11.3.2 Raschel fabrics/拉舍尔经编针织物 122 |; g, n9 ]1 l7 o+ d! |5 z2 v
11.4 Performance and characteristics/性能和参数 1220 I0 B) h1 \: {0 g6 }( F. k/ U+ \, `
Questions/思考题 123* \$ e% e' B8 i% ]) N3 [
Chapter 12 Nonwoven Fabrics/非织造布 124& T' r% U; F* j0 c/ q* k, e
12.1 Introduction/导论 124
( @* ]2 ]. C* Z1 @& b; V3 R 12.2 Manufacturing methods/生产方法 125
" E, ? B' h' S' _ 12.2.1 Dry laid system/干法成网 125
( x- T* o5 [0 R4 M) d% m9 y. V; c 12.2.2 Wet laid system/湿法成网 125
d. U' e# Z" k: K4 e) ], ?1 C7 j 12.2.3 Polymer laid system/聚合物挤压法 125% }; W) D) j ~* W% A
12.3 Various nonwovens/各种非织造布 125
' J* M- h ?/ U! u' | 12.3.1 Needle punched nonwovens/针刺法非织造布 125) c6 N' W, H$ ~5 k: @( f
12.3.2 Bonded web nonwovens/黏合法非织造布 126' O9 v& N$ t. e L8 Q1 F
12.3.3 Spunlaced nonwovens/射流喷网法非织造布 127
' h& x }* A6 j6 Q) |5 a+ P1 e2 N$ w 12.3.4 Spunbonded nonwovens/纺粘法非织造布 128
/ D! v9 c$ n: Z+ Q' q9 X9 I+ M6 n g 12.3.5 Melt-blown nonwovens/熔喷法非织造布 129
% ^7 n7 U3 B9 ~ Questions/思考题 1297 _+ K7 B: l% f
Part Ⅴ Textile Testing/纺织品测试 130
: b8 U" p* k& \+ l) S Chapter 13 General Test Methods/常规测试方法 130" r; P/ {, o# H& h
13.1 General fiber tests/纤维常规测试 130* u- U x% R) E
13.1.1 Fiber identification/纤维鉴别 130
6 R4 M* W- V) x6 U3 y4 g 13.1.2 Fiber length/纤维长度 134
$ [- T; w' T0 r H2 o 13.1.3 Fiber fineness or linear density/纤维细度或线密度 135( f' j% i* C0 j; L
13.1.4 Cross-sectional shape/截面形状 135( N$ W8 f5 v2 I c4 t0 G
13.1.5 Crimp/卷曲 135
- J* t7 S# q- A6 ]' J& a 13.1.6 Regain/回潮率 136. F7 C5 }; e8 @0 O
13.1.7 Mechanical properties/机械性能 1368 N$ B. W: \( O1 n& I
13.1.8 Chemical characteristics/化学性能 136
8 v! ^7 E( D9 C4 W. w 13.1.9 Surface characteristics/表面性能 136
% R8 ^& X( R4 }! I. c 13.1.10 Density and specific gravity/密度和相对密度 137
) j3 r* w% H5 ?2 A" G 13.2 Special tests for natural fibers/天然纤维的测试 137- ~) z: e. Q0 ?# V) g
13.2.1 Tests for cotton/棉纤维测试 137
( g" i5 d5 @! q7 n% N% [2 {3 b 13.2.2 Tests for wool/毛纤维测试 139
" Y! [( R% ]; B: } 13.3 Testing of tensile properties/拉伸性能测试 140
* j* K4 @; w; u/ H( q 13.3.1 Description of tensile proprieties/拉伸性能的描述 141
) {$ j, `$ U6 V$ n2 p( g3 a 13.3.2 Fiber and yarn tensile testing/纤维和纱线拉伸性能的测试 146+ o3 t/ ]/ s$ C/ ?1 B/ l7 r) p
13.3.3 Fabric tensile testing/织物拉伸性能测试方法 147
$ x7 n* x4 O6 A0 u* ? Questions/思考题 1497 A* g2 e2 ]) D' R0 L
Chapter 14 Fabric Abrasion and Pilling/织物磨损与起球 150# g) a- d# n( v$ t8 @1 u
14.1 Types of abrasion/磨损的类型 150
; t2 ]' |6 S- |* ?/ _( } 14.1.1 Abrasion between fabrics/织物间的磨损 150- O Q4 N1 U- i p: g* G+ n1 z
14.1.2 Abrasion between fabric and a nontextile surface/织物与非纤维制品表面磨损 150# m! B+ l p v9 v1 j. C& q
14.1.3 Abrasion within fabric/织物内部磨损 151- s/ d1 |1 _5 a8 ~* D
14.1.4 Abrasion by foreign materials within the fabric/与织物内部其他材料的磨损 151
* C9 U0 q5 U& N% A8 e 14.2 Factors affecting fabric abrasion resistance/影响耐磨性能的因素 151% d8 N- Q- n- g; n8 v' l! s
14.2.1 Fabric properties/织物性能 151
u& r6 |3 l5 B& [1 u i 14.2.2 Other factors/其他因素 153
0 c. f8 s% S0 o 14.3 Abrasion testing/磨损测试 154! }3 N. P% \/ z2 k( ~2 D- s
14.3.1 Visual comparison with an unabraded specimen/与未磨损样品视觉对比 154
$ C) n( F8 t. S; n 14.3.2 Number of cycles to produce a hole/产生磨损破洞需要的摩擦圈数 1544 L% F2 C% U$ p5 x" e3 m
14.3.3 Change in a physical property/物理性能的变化 154# ?& P" L3 W& g3 p% ?* _
14.3.4 Microscopic examination/显微镜观测 155
1 o" U9 U$ ^, u# f 14.4 Aesthetics of abrasion and wear/穿着和磨损对美感的影响 1558 n2 W- l) T( `
14.4.1 Color changes caused by abrasion/磨损引起的颜色变化 155" k/ X& C v7 {1 W/ Y Q9 l
14.4.2 Pilling/起球 1568 R* H+ |8 ?3 ^, u+ @: Y6 n, r
Questions/思考题 157" h n) F3 o2 ?
Chapter 15 Fabric Hand and Drape/织物手感与悬垂 158
: f# s2 W# Z1 I 15.1 Fabric hand/织物手感 158
1 ~: P1 m; e4 r$ e" P2 { 15.2 Fabric drape/织物悬垂 1596 X% k2 S) @, @
15.3 Measurement of hand and drape/手感与悬垂的评价 161) L& P, ~+ @6 O# S5 g* f' M! E
15.3.1 Subjective evaluation/主观评定法 161; ~$ m1 d9 V% ]. d/ y, O! I; s
15.3.2 Quantitative measurement/定量评定法 1622 W7 l3 n( e& ^+ T5 d9 o9 J
15.3.3 Kawabata evaluation system/KES评定法 1631 h, O/ p7 F- U6 Z0 F
Questions/思考题 1633 L7 V/ U1 J* _( e9 _
Chapter 16 Fabric Colorfastness/织物染色牢度 164
6 H( J \/ y: d. H 16.1 Evaluation of color and colorfastness/颜色和染色牢度评定方法 164& |! n% u0 |: [6 r! U6 H" {
16.2 Colorfastness tests/染色牢度测试 164
: a1 V7 w( r- ^. X2 H" [ 16.2.1 Colorfastness to crocking/耐摩擦色牢度 164
4 h: }" C. a5 M2 q/ @2 G# i 16.2.2 Colorfastness to laundering and bleaching/耐洗涤和耐漂白色牢 165( q0 t% T! h- W1 w, {& P
16.2.3 Colorfastness to drycleaning/耐干洗色牢度 166! K, U) g3 {4 R
16.2.4 Colorfastness to perspiration/耐汗渍色牢度 166
& S7 o8 N# f# Z 16.2.5 Colorfastness to water/耐水浸色牢度 166
! V1 ]2 p% x2 ]3 S8 @ 16.2.6 Colorfastness to light/耐光照色牢度 167
/ `+ \$ ?* O( F" E 16.2.7 Colorfastness to atmospheric contaminants/耐空气污染色牢度 1681 W2 P2 t6 E7 Q* t
Questions/思考题 1680 n# N6 n+ w+ A
Chapter 17 Fabric Flammability/织物可燃性 169
9 o' Q2 _: b) ^# ? l2 X 17.1 Flammability standards/可燃性标准 1696 @' _5 i- _/ u+ f+ @3 p( d( X
17.2 Properties affecting flammability/影响可燃性的因素 169% j( Z4 C, p% U! G2 U
17.3 Flammability testing/可燃性测试 171% S& b0 G0 I0 K+ ~8 x3 F( c' [
17.3.1 Forty-five degree angle test/45°燃烧测试法 171
: Y0 o9 q2 G2 B+ i7 @, E 17.3.2 Vertical flame tests/垂直燃烧测试法 172' k, p$ ~/ s5 @
17.3.3 Carpet testing/地毯测试 172
+ C8 j4 i; u5 x4 D3 P4 f# W2 I) c8 x- e 17.3.4 Cigarette tests/卷烟点燃测试 172
, @0 X0 E! G! ^# ~! M2 T 17.3.5 Other standard flammability tests/其他可燃性测试 1739 `3 O) _3 a" d* [9 h7 `$ y
Questions/思考题 173
3 ?. \/ P4 ^/ Y+ ?+ J0 i Chapter 18 Comfort of Textiles/纺织品舒适性 174
6 C4 g% B; ^( z. ?7 V+ j2 R% g 18.1 Physical phenomena affecting thermal comfort/影响热舒适性能的物理现象 174, i. _$ x- Z, h2 ?, `
18.1.1 Heat transfer/热传递 174" }% w n: V [$ Y1 Z
18.1.2 Moisture transfer/湿传递 175) K& ]. p5 N1 t, j
18.1.3 Water resistance/抗水性 175
# A+ H1 x& i2 z 18.1.4 Air transfer/透气性 176
/ |/ K; [& T% o! F 18.1.5 Porosity and cover factor/多孔性和覆盖系数 1762 j/ |1 f: g1 J4 ]
18.1.6 Electrostatic propensity/静电 177
5 W6 n5 D4 }, j# I7 F$ z 18.2 Evaluations of textile properties related to comfort/与舒适性相关的纺织品性能评价 177/ ^$ S i9 i2 J3 F: V4 ?* s
18.2.1 Heat transfer/热传递 178
- e4 }0 D) }! r/ R7 }2 x+ ~ 18.2.2 Moisture properties/湿传递性能 179
2 \7 }' W! N" w+ P 18.2.3 Air permeability/透气性 179
9 F" p3 f5 Z+ q- V. I! J7 T% t4 Q2 i 18.2.4 Porosity/孔隙率 180
n' R4 S( x3 T; c5 u+ | 18.2.5 Electrostatic tests/静电测试 180$ B8 G8 b! d9 e* j
Questions/思考题 180
8 V4 q5 y( F* K, j2 s, n% PAppendix/附录 181
: N j2 _: c; K) h* i AATCC:AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS/美国纺织化学家与染色家协会 181
/ ]+ ~8 m" Q8 |5 {( c ASTM:AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR TESTING AND MATERIALS/美国材料试验学会 184: W% B$ T$ J: r# U
Vocabulary/词汇表 189% r: r9 T% w, q0 ^( { ?
References/参考文献 1971 {. _! Z/ z k5 U
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