
纺织材料学(双语教材),刘妍,熊磊,PDF。普通高等教育“十一五”国家级规划教材(本科),纺织工程专业双语教材,电子目录,14M。, c$ z7 }6 f; Q$ b" r+ P
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内容提要
! J4 P( h! A# n6 y本书讨论了纤维、纱线与织物(包括机织物、针织物及非织造布)的结构、机械性能、物理性能及使用性能。涉及的纤维势括天然纤维(如棉、毛、麻、丝等)、传统化学纤维及新型化学纤维。本书同时介绍了纤维、纱线和织物的各种标准测试方法(包括国际上常用的ASTM, AATCC及GB等方法),并讨论了与各种测试方法有关的测试原理及对测试结果的影响因素。
4 q: p! F3 B* X0 e. _% ~本书可供高等纺织院校纺织、服装相关专业的本科生及研究生作为《纺织材料学》的双语教材或专业英语教材,也可供其他专业师生、纺织贸易专业人员和科研及生产单位的技术人员参考。
% _! q9 ]# L* h+ e9 Z5 A( z目录% a; q3 y% y# T' [$ h
Part Ⅰ An Introduction to Textiles/纺织入门 188 K5 w& n/ ?4 {7 u9 f
Chapter 1 Introduction/介绍 18
/ v' R' m# b1 K: U! I- Q# }+ r( | 1.1 ASTM Standard Terminology Relating to Textiles/ASTM纺织标准术语 187 S) m$ `6 K" w! I% a
1.2 Fiber history/纤维历史 26
) O6 P5 R9 O% S0 x 1.2.1 Natural fibers/天然纤维 265 M+ E7 [* F5 h& Q- s# F" S: j
1.2.2 Man-made fibers/化学纤维 27
% {- S+ }. f) z/ g. g Questions/思考题 30. U1 \% k, ^% m8 y. y+ d5 S8 S
Part Ⅱ Textile Fibers/纺织纤维 32- x: V% {, w4 [1 l6 J
Chapter 2 Natural Cellulosic Fibers/天然纤维素纤维 32
6 W9 \1 N k1 Y 2.1 Cotton/棉 33" s- g, B5 n* X: c
2.1.1 Nature of cotton/棉花的种类 33
5 O, _! g: X9 l1 m( @ 2.1.2 Classification/分类 34, U* r- o2 N5 m1 n" J1 C* b% ?
2.1.3 Growth and structure of cotton/棉纤维的生长与结构 34
2 h1 X- `9 H& B1 e8 c& h 2.1.4 Maturity/成熟度 365 s7 E, q% R5 Z
2.1.5 Cotton properties/棉纤维的性能 38& o: Q' g% O9 [+ O3 ^
2.1.6 Cotton classification/棉花分级 39
7 d3 M4 _. h, Y% O$ ~ ^8 ? 2.2 Bast fibers/韧皮纤维 40
+ v6 |) F _& f, i1 _ 2.2.1 Flax (linen)/亚麻,亚麻织物 41) D7 {& r" G8 E# |' h
2.2.2 Ramie/苎麻 43
' X; a" n& C8 a- m 2.2.3 Hemp/汉麻 44
* l6 |% G3 Q! x3 {$ s 2.2.4 Jute/黄麻 44
d1 c2 j. R! j! T Questions/思考题 45
0 v. a5 ~* O9 v7 n+ U8 I' L Chapter 3 Natural Protein Fibers/天然蛋白质纤维 46
3 Y; A1 ^/ |' @& Z( y0 T L# A 3.1 Wool/绵羊毛 46( ~' }8 M- r9 L( ~
3.1.1 Wool production and history/羊毛生产和历史 46
! d J6 M7 g5 `% X3 t! p 3.1.2 Wool grading/羊毛分级 47 [% A3 j! \# a9 d) W
3.1.3 Wool structure/羊毛结构 47$ `- p- y5 q+ k6 G; i8 @& K3 `
3.1.4 Wool properties/羊毛性能 48/ {8 ?$ O7 y6 V. N! C: T) F
3.2 Specialty animal fibers/特种动物毛 51; Q9 ?( g0 p4 w- {
3.3 Silk/丝 52
6 U- M' Z/ b. B! ^' Q Questions/思考题 54. G- \: R* g% ?/ _6 d$ c1 C
Chapter 4 Man-made Fibers/化学纤维 55; h9 T+ p2 n4 C( X
4.1 Manufacturing processing of fiber/纤维生产工艺 55
3 w7 H0 Y$ K/ P/ O 4.1.1 Wet spinning/湿法纺丝 56
5 G! r/ m, }# y8 S 4.1.2 Dry spinning/干法纺丝 56
6 p! U6 {" m+ e" d/ ^& G1 Z# j0 x 4.1.3 Melt spinning/熔体法纺丝 56
G0 ^4 j. T% a 4.1.4 Gel spinning/凝胶纺丝 57& k5 Q' Q% V* k, V) V
4.2 Regenerated fibers/再生纤维 577 {- L5 }5 P, y' o. r u
4.2.1 Acetate/醋酯纤维 57; C+ |6 [1 B* U
4.2.2 Triacetate/三醋酯纤维 59
. }/ i* q S* X* u 4.2.3 Viscose fibers/粘胶纤维 59- e% F7 f( _) r" j3 l# n2 t
4.3 Synthetic fibers/合成纤维 60& C2 N7 [( [ q* s7 h7 @4 J
4.3.1 Acrylic/腈纶 60
7 u: s0 Z$ P! [ 4.3.2 Modacrylic/改性腈纶 61
5 E: [& B0 _; j$ R 4.3.3 Nylon/锦纶 61
% x" N4 ?5 ~/ v- O; ?7 X# V G 4.3.4 Polyester/涤纶 62" w4 g h1 j4 m1 u8 Z6 M7 e( N
4.3.5 PBI/聚苯并咪唑纤维 63
) w& k. n, V! p" G2 s 4.3.6 Vinal/聚乙烯醇纤维 63
4 q0 A2 l& K) p$ v- } 4.3.7 Olefin/聚烯烃纤维 632 ]7 g9 h$ \1 g6 F8 N
4.3.8 Aramid/芳纶 64
1 ?* y9 _+ y) F 4.3.9 Lycra/莱卡 64( ?5 w/ M8 M2 {
4.4 Other man-made fibers/其他化学纤维 66
/ j3 @$ h! g! g0 ^1 ]$ T5 Q 4.4.1 Glass/玻璃纤维 66
9 i7 p' D, \% L/ M 4.4.2 Metallic/金属纤维 67& G; X) [0 Z0 [6 u5 @" v
Questions/思考题 67
# d" S$ i; R9 K' W8 q7 C; U- S Chapter 5 New Fibers/新型纤维 68
% I& g% I2 Q/ x* T$ h! u; p+ d9 u5 C 5.1 Carbon fibers/碳纤维 68
3 }! [" p3 Z v' q4 q2 U 5.2 Fluorocarbon/氟碳纤维 68
( C- W5 a [7 h5 b 5.3 Lyocell fibers(Tencel)/莱塞尔纤维 68
3 w6 |' n& ~/ f |" f) d( N8 b" v1 _6 O 5.4 High-wet-modulus fibers/高湿模量纤维 694 a5 _) R. m( S; Q
5.4.1 Modal fibers/莫代尔纤维 69
, x# g# B# r- w" y5 |7 [* t/ _ 5.4.2 Richcel/丽赛纤维 70
9 u9 E2 V6 S) v. A! j 5.5 Soybean protein composite fibers/大豆蛋白复合纤维 70
E% t" s, n5 p7 F( H' _ 5.6 PLA fiber/聚左旋乳酸纤维 71
2 \9 O0 l$ l$ T. S" z) s; o1 d4 Y* v 5.7 Heterogenous fibers/复合纤维 71
$ \% u) v; O: W' M 5.7.1 Bicomponent or multicomponent/双组分或多组分 72
; H' Z ?4 [$ s( j+ B: _+ S 5.7.2 Biconstituent or multiconstituent/双成分或多成分 73" X- M9 [0 L+ p. a0 t
5.7.3 Matrix or matrix-fibril/基质型纤维 73
% E, g: r9 \: `7 K' ` 5.8 Differential fibers/差别化纤维 74
& L% `6 J% u# O' o( {1 r: _ 5.9 Functional fibers/功能性纤维 74, l% y" y( K- I
5.10 High performance fibers/高性能纤维 74/ r* c/ a. B% `' S/ U0 Y; P6 o
Questions/思考题 74
- ~, ^/ t q; z* X Chapter 6 The Property of Absorbing Moisture/吸湿性 75
% ]8 j* G; L. l( d9 l! N 6.1 Orientation and crystallization/取向与结晶 75, t e2 L8 H: X) o8 e6 }
6.2 Moisture sorption/吸湿性 752 f I; T9 ^9 ?5 a- ?4 p
6.2.1 Regain and moisture content/回潮率与含水率 75- K; ^9 K# z+ ]0 v, \$ g5 i
6.2.2 Relation between regain and relative humidity/回潮率与相对湿度的关系 75% o* n! H1 M9 u& i2 D1 A# G
6.2.3 Comparison of various materials/不同材料吸湿性的对比 762 Q Z ^9 s9 ]" v! P/ ~
6.2.4 Theories of moisture sorption/吸湿理论 78
* u( p# J G, A8 d( x Questions/思考题 80, v* k2 \8 Y. p$ n
Chapter 7 Other Physical Properties of Textile Fibers/纤维的其他物理性能 81
/ K+ y4 t3 Q1 ^2 i/ {. B) U 7.1 Electronic properties/电学性能 812 j0 @; U( E: C+ t: s9 J# y: B# L
7.1.1 Definitions/定义 81
( ~1 N* ~. f: b) W' U% H0 D8 s9 d" m 7.2 Optical properties/光学性能 82
! _0 E7 g$ }' m$ M$ X 7.3 Thermal properties/热学性能 83
" t% H3 T. l% Q( ~+ X1 i3 {8 A 7.3.1 Thermal parameters/热力学参数 83; G, _9 n$ n$ e ?4 H
7.3.2 A comparison of temperature effects/温度效应比较 83# j/ s: }" o3 x* b* r+ p& }
Questions/思考题 83
6 q' j. ?8 H% H4 M6 bPart Ⅲ Textile Yarns/纺织纱线 84
9 y K9 G2 E* r0 ]! k4 e q Chapter 8 Yarn Processing and Construction/纱线制造与结构 84
5 d0 \* z# G" p- | B# \$ s 8.1 Spun yarns/短纤纱 85
3 z; H; f- `0 U+ a1 u 8.2 Filament yarns/长丝纱 85
; t' w* N9 W3 i2 g6 y 8.3 Methods of yarn processing/纺纱方法 855 ]. Q. v1 N6 ]9 X6 ^. \
8.3.1 Ring-spinning/环锭纺 86
9 m' z- c T3 p" x 8.3.2 New methods of yarn processing/新型纺纱方法 86
( S( ?: T1 G4 w* c* l5 b 8.4 Single and ply yarns/单纱和股线 89
' Z2 O. B# o6 p$ f Z" `4 h i 8.5 Special types of yarn/特种纱线 90' l* {. a( [- g: s
8.5.1 Fancy yarns/花式纱 90, m- R4 O* w8 d
8.5.2 Stretch yarns/弹力纱 910 o( ? p. F. {. `2 B- E
8.5.3 Textured yarns 变形纱线 91
1 N: C1 q6 S1 R# n% R+ A) i' A 8.6 Blends and mixtures yarns/纱线混纺与混用 92
$ _. _* @$ B3 F0 Y3 f- ?9 h R: E Questions/思考题 93
+ ~6 j2 |. U3 P) X6 U Chapter 9 Yarn Properties/纱线性能 94
) s8 }: z0 {; k* n7 _8 O* X" d$ Y 9.1 Yarn number/纱线细度 94" J! m3 Y+ ~; Y' i& E. p! G
9.1.1 Denier system/旦数 94
9 L9 q6 x( k2 A+ n, Y 9.1.2 Yarn count system/纱线英制支数 94
! I7 n$ F* N! l" U* p* f 9.1.3 Tex system/线密度 95
2 J# n! }$ D/ L- b O! v 9.1.4 Metric numbering system/公制支数 95; G5 n9 Y7 ]7 [
9.1.5 Conversion in different systems/不同系统之间的换算 95) ?+ `- n N5 }
9.2 Ply yarn counts and singles equivalent/股线支数与单纱支数 95
: N8 ?) T7 Z9 ?" I2 v, ~% ^7 [ 9.3 Yarn twist/纱线捻度 96$ L) T! C; q- b# C) ]
9.4 Yarn hairiness/纱线毛羽 97' a+ r9 h4 C: N6 x* y7 D" y0 o3 E
9.4.1 Hairiness test method/毛羽测试方法 98
" L5 j/ v x0 a3 v$ P, E# ] 9.4.2 Factors affecting hairiness/影响毛羽的因素 98
2 h5 x6 J C; y/ j/ z2 J6 c 9.5 Yarn unevenness/纱线不匀 99
1 K$ I/ r9 f u 9.5.1 Test of yarn unevenness/纱线不匀的测试 99# R" Z V1 G& [# q3 y
9.5.2 Reasons for yarn unevenness/纱线不匀的原因 100
9 \+ j3 I0 W# B. @/ ` 9.6 Classification of yarn quality/纱线质量分析 100
) N3 y( Y( ^, i Questions/思考题 100
! Y3 X' C3 m3 U9 BPart Ⅳ Textile Fabrics/织物 102
: k/ d7 L. O* r( L. f/ @ Chapter 10 Woven Fabrics/机织物 102- f; p% `4 v9 B; O
10.1 Making woven fabrics/织制机织物 102
) R, V4 O) ^0 W( ?7 n: A0 v 10.1.1 The loom/织机 102
5 n! n% Q" n# P$ N 10.1.2 Loom type/织机类型 104
. N X3 l; G" S% i 10.1.3 Loom motions/织机运动 1043 V" K! \! C# \+ }& T& y3 ]
10.1.4 Electronics in weaving/电子技术在织机中的应用 105
) d! l" O, @5 p- P4 U 10.1.5 The selvage/布边 105
5 f' E" _: B: M S1 l/ D3 b 10.2 Warp yarns and filling yarns/经纱和纬纱 1056 M1 K/ V% X2 I
10.2.1 Identification/鉴别 106
- c, }$ b* H$ N Z 10.3 Face and back/正面与反面 106( U2 H# ` K G1 R0 d+ b7 O
10.3.1 Reasons for differenee/存在差异的原因 107# r7 K6 K+ Y N
10.3.2 Caution/应用的要点 107
6 }! @+ q$ q: _1 \9 x$ E 10.4 Top and bottom/顶端和底端 107 j0 A( ?* e4 Y) @1 M
10.4.1 Reasons for difference/存在差异的原因 107
1 Q- K0 J! x4 `+ g8 y& h1 @' a& }$ U9 K$ W 10.5 Weave floats/组织浮线 108
$ Y$ U7 g3 a4 |2 A8 ^2 p) ] 10.6 Basic weaves/基本组织 108
4 o1 K. f% H/ r. l5 Y 10.6.1 Plain weave/平纹组织 108+ M' ]" k+ D: l" i! N8 u
10.6.2 Twill weave/斜纹组织 109. \8 j) v" @, G
10.6.3 Satin weave/缎纹组织 111: X4 x9 |8 Q: K$ K' Z4 [7 T
10.7 Fabric performance and characteristics/织物性能和参数 112
3 G+ p' ]/ l& i, H0 u- @" D 10.7.1 Fabric width/幅宽 112+ {) O& A5 ]7 R; J4 ?
10.7.2 Fabric weight/织物重量 112" V: s4 h( }* N$ H& E, U0 i, P+ Z
10.7.3 Fabric thickness/织物厚度 113
% {+ G0 P/ @5 u% h 10.7.4 Fabric density/织物密度 113: G: I( Y- V/ Y/ d
10.7.5 Fabric count/织物经纬密度 1138 @ n5 Z: W% u3 m; s
10.7.6 Fabric defects/织物疵点 1131 i) A/ _' \, {9 Q7 H7 E
Questions/思考题 113* P: Y% g, \" ~. F& r" k4 v
Chapter 11 Knitted Fabrics/针织物 114
. U3 j0 D4 `0 P. Z2 ? 11.1 Making of knitted fabric/针织物形成 114
+ N% t( H" Y+ K6 u( d5 C/ Q 11.1.1 The forming of knitted stitches/线圈的形成 114
0 _' s. R' U+ q( B 11.1.2 Types of knitted stitches/线圈的种类 1161 B) J" w; R# F3 ^9 {
11.2 Weft knits/纬编针织物 117& I0 n- l; p# ~7 m
11.2.1 Jersey knit fabric/纬平针织物 117, y4 V! y( E1 [& } \: N( Q
11.2.2 Rib knit fabric/罗纹针织物 1184 t6 t/ L- W. h& i6 ~ n
11.2.3 Purl knit fabric/双反面针织物 119
& r0 c9 i4 t! H 11.2.4 Double knits/双面针织物 120& t5 v8 N' ]# u7 v$ b6 ~8 T
11.2.5 Full-fashioned knits/全成形针织物 120
& {5 X! S2 V/ Z" o, Y 11.3 Warp knits/经编针织物 1213 a# I& C5 l0 o6 ]+ g& R Z5 i- o
11.3.1 Tricot fabrics/特里科经编针织物 121
3 ]* f2 O9 A8 X1 v2 h 11.3.2 Raschel fabrics/拉舍尔经编针织物 1228 F- z' S. K, \: a f9 m, C
11.4 Performance and characteristics/性能和参数 122 P" H3 }' D7 B1 @# z' E8 ~
Questions/思考题 123. p0 ?, Z2 I. b* _8 D; j& D" \
Chapter 12 Nonwoven Fabrics/非织造布 124: R3 C9 ^: F6 J6 r( L2 p
12.1 Introduction/导论 124
6 L3 P% E5 s) s4 [4 t% Q$ `2 a) p- @( H 12.2 Manufacturing methods/生产方法 125
6 N0 e$ N6 T; w 12.2.1 Dry laid system/干法成网 1255 A6 I7 @) d W! @
12.2.2 Wet laid system/湿法成网 125
+ m# S/ q+ ^. `8 W& R1 J7 f# X 12.2.3 Polymer laid system/聚合物挤压法 1250 G0 A! j* v; J4 w
12.3 Various nonwovens/各种非织造布 125
/ u0 A4 B4 z, N# J" R 12.3.1 Needle punched nonwovens/针刺法非织造布 1252 @# ]7 u4 M1 S& i7 i
12.3.2 Bonded web nonwovens/黏合法非织造布 1265 C2 ?3 E/ |+ u8 m: \
12.3.3 Spunlaced nonwovens/射流喷网法非织造布 1279 N; p+ P& H1 O7 S
12.3.4 Spunbonded nonwovens/纺粘法非织造布 128
6 W/ J. s: x& S4 j; l 12.3.5 Melt-blown nonwovens/熔喷法非织造布 129
# k. G" l. G2 T6 x* L0 e1 c4 ` Questions/思考题 1295 b- z4 o( R) b: F
Part Ⅴ Textile Testing/纺织品测试 1302 ]8 T/ a/ ~2 s" \/ X/ u
Chapter 13 General Test Methods/常规测试方法 130& m2 h; _1 b& |, T. @
13.1 General fiber tests/纤维常规测试 130
: c/ p$ J6 d7 L$ ^2 d' a 13.1.1 Fiber identification/纤维鉴别 130
2 i+ ~3 H6 D+ L4 @" H 13.1.2 Fiber length/纤维长度 134; ^, n0 W& P. u; Q. k
13.1.3 Fiber fineness or linear density/纤维细度或线密度 1352 {$ l/ R' f, y1 W% k' s5 \
13.1.4 Cross-sectional shape/截面形状 135
0 e& q# s( m# r9 l7 B3 M* Q3 j 13.1.5 Crimp/卷曲 1356 o. u* p" w/ p5 r* b! }+ M8 i4 E
13.1.6 Regain/回潮率 136
- L- C: q# Z4 g u9 A; f 13.1.7 Mechanical properties/机械性能 1365 [. ^) q" I& L& b" ^+ R/ P
13.1.8 Chemical characteristics/化学性能 136
~1 Q+ i4 i8 |4 l 13.1.9 Surface characteristics/表面性能 136- W. Y8 c7 T: q2 r D
13.1.10 Density and specific gravity/密度和相对密度 1373 m& J5 p4 t0 f( }9 k1 B+ C/ u" i
13.2 Special tests for natural fibers/天然纤维的测试 1373 u1 `1 B* u% {5 b) K
13.2.1 Tests for cotton/棉纤维测试 137 R/ A0 c: R0 a9 e2 ~
13.2.2 Tests for wool/毛纤维测试 139
. l, x: X* n4 |: F5 e C 13.3 Testing of tensile properties/拉伸性能测试 140* f7 ?7 \' X+ Y0 G
13.3.1 Description of tensile proprieties/拉伸性能的描述 141
/ ?* R$ N$ U/ @ 13.3.2 Fiber and yarn tensile testing/纤维和纱线拉伸性能的测试 146
9 W7 _# N; z& u; ?. _& \ 13.3.3 Fabric tensile testing/织物拉伸性能测试方法 147
2 o3 t8 {, `$ C Questions/思考题 149
. f3 V9 k& t! p% G2 q6 _: U, @ Chapter 14 Fabric Abrasion and Pilling/织物磨损与起球 1500 I( X+ F9 _+ S' g G
14.1 Types of abrasion/磨损的类型 1509 A0 k; ]: }9 V
14.1.1 Abrasion between fabrics/织物间的磨损 150
7 O! r/ s7 n% r, j 14.1.2 Abrasion between fabric and a nontextile surface/织物与非纤维制品表面磨损 150( s& r! z! U" F# J. G
14.1.3 Abrasion within fabric/织物内部磨损 151& ^- a( t4 H: G6 p% A n! P
14.1.4 Abrasion by foreign materials within the fabric/与织物内部其他材料的磨损 1516 f. W( X) w4 V0 j; R
14.2 Factors affecting fabric abrasion resistance/影响耐磨性能的因素 1516 ?1 `' P: a( R$ ]
14.2.1 Fabric properties/织物性能 151' @; C9 j6 E- a$ X& U# M! q5 b, d
14.2.2 Other factors/其他因素 153
* v' e/ ?4 h% `7 M G 14.3 Abrasion testing/磨损测试 154
5 q# ~2 j" F: F 14.3.1 Visual comparison with an unabraded specimen/与未磨损样品视觉对比 154
5 @( _' d0 R; F5 ]% M 14.3.2 Number of cycles to produce a hole/产生磨损破洞需要的摩擦圈数 154 b9 h& C, @; K% G- x6 t" T
14.3.3 Change in a physical property/物理性能的变化 1542 a7 `, m! w: h5 A* h* G; Z5 {. T
14.3.4 Microscopic examination/显微镜观测 155
1 s! Y. R; `8 x! @+ Y8 F% A% c! J 14.4 Aesthetics of abrasion and wear/穿着和磨损对美感的影响 155
4 p- {0 K' u' T$ l" @; m/ u- ] 14.4.1 Color changes caused by abrasion/磨损引起的颜色变化 155 h6 K5 e/ n" ?& T# W
14.4.2 Pilling/起球 1566 g* U: j/ y. A: m
Questions/思考题 1575 ]0 M# G& t# [' L
Chapter 15 Fabric Hand and Drape/织物手感与悬垂 158
+ P, p. ^3 c% Z, Z; u: h/ O 15.1 Fabric hand/织物手感 158
! ]# Q! l4 L9 a" P 15.2 Fabric drape/织物悬垂 159. O$ H6 a8 c9 }& R* \7 N5 n
15.3 Measurement of hand and drape/手感与悬垂的评价 161
. ~- y; f/ f4 `4 K 15.3.1 Subjective evaluation/主观评定法 161$ y8 X% F# e& }
15.3.2 Quantitative measurement/定量评定法 162
+ e1 ^ i' e1 W- F1 r3 O 15.3.3 Kawabata evaluation system/KES评定法 163
0 Y" S5 G4 F4 Q; @ |' l Questions/思考题 163
" J& U; f5 p6 U Chapter 16 Fabric Colorfastness/织物染色牢度 164
* {9 F+ B: i" m- T$ V/ `' N4 W 16.1 Evaluation of color and colorfastness/颜色和染色牢度评定方法 164
7 d( A) M3 u2 i- X 16.2 Colorfastness tests/染色牢度测试 164) L6 ]9 Z7 `* S9 i% g5 q: A- v8 e
16.2.1 Colorfastness to crocking/耐摩擦色牢度 1646 _# c3 o5 x" e3 c% L
16.2.2 Colorfastness to laundering and bleaching/耐洗涤和耐漂白色牢 165
! i- _$ c5 Z* t8 f$ B3 n# x0 e8 x 16.2.3 Colorfastness to drycleaning/耐干洗色牢度 166
* l1 L, u0 [# y 16.2.4 Colorfastness to perspiration/耐汗渍色牢度 1664 F0 ^; x, Y6 ^! P7 a; P
16.2.5 Colorfastness to water/耐水浸色牢度 166
_$ u: K& F9 _; y 16.2.6 Colorfastness to light/耐光照色牢度 167
* Z. I( q$ x4 n1 ]6 @7 O; z- z 16.2.7 Colorfastness to atmospheric contaminants/耐空气污染色牢度 1687 F3 Q3 k. i+ J
Questions/思考题 168; s! M" E3 `8 ^
Chapter 17 Fabric Flammability/织物可燃性 169
. p: X0 E4 p7 j0 I 17.1 Flammability standards/可燃性标准 169
" b/ _1 e+ ?& Y* x 17.2 Properties affecting flammability/影响可燃性的因素 169
: j1 |3 P( S" P 17.3 Flammability testing/可燃性测试 171
- y7 N' F% p5 `9 w( L 17.3.1 Forty-five degree angle test/45°燃烧测试法 171 o7 o/ g2 E& b
17.3.2 Vertical flame tests/垂直燃烧测试法 172! T* C! h3 ?+ V6 a8 Q/ S, k+ ~
17.3.3 Carpet testing/地毯测试 1728 T: ~; c/ L0 n, @, k% r
17.3.4 Cigarette tests/卷烟点燃测试 172! Y) P m' P2 c3 z e9 l6 ^
17.3.5 Other standard flammability tests/其他可燃性测试 173& X1 L( R( @( s* C2 K
Questions/思考题 173
* m% ?& m, Y" g$ A+ T* ] Chapter 18 Comfort of Textiles/纺织品舒适性 174: N: C! {) Q( j G! l. C+ _) ?
18.1 Physical phenomena affecting thermal comfort/影响热舒适性能的物理现象 174. O1 B+ v' z5 p% G
18.1.1 Heat transfer/热传递 174
P0 N. k0 G, e# a4 I. ^6 b1 f 18.1.2 Moisture transfer/湿传递 1750 O, I2 R; K* \1 ^3 V/ b# V
18.1.3 Water resistance/抗水性 175
$ n& k! O, W& u3 A* r* ^5 D/ D( | 18.1.4 Air transfer/透气性 176 s1 ]0 q, ~3 q% b) a
18.1.5 Porosity and cover factor/多孔性和覆盖系数 176
2 c8 [8 w& A% X5 k 18.1.6 Electrostatic propensity/静电 177
" l$ r8 |8 m6 p3 r& L 18.2 Evaluations of textile properties related to comfort/与舒适性相关的纺织品性能评价 1776 u9 l! o _% z% ]
18.2.1 Heat transfer/热传递 1787 i: z% {8 l" y' x8 [* i1 T
18.2.2 Moisture properties/湿传递性能 179
3 p: } {, b* }' ?% H 18.2.3 Air permeability/透气性 179
4 F$ ]8 O D/ b6 J8 m& i0 D 18.2.4 Porosity/孔隙率 180
) h; x5 H5 a# P3 G" c 18.2.5 Electrostatic tests/静电测试 180
- m9 p: F: @! v: `: ` Questions/思考题 1800 y! P T+ z8 c/ M* }2 L* J
Appendix/附录 181
# ^% N9 h F* {' N( F: | AATCC:AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS/美国纺织化学家与染色家协会 181
Y, f$ `, n$ R0 Z5 O ASTM:AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR TESTING AND MATERIALS/美国材料试验学会 184% q. n! \+ P' D& j+ [. d; f
Vocabulary/词汇表 1893 J" z9 }- Z% L4 D4 s4 c0 O
References/参考文献 197
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