
纺织材料学(双语教材),刘妍,熊磊,PDF。普通高等教育“十一五”国家级规划教材(本科),纺织工程专业双语教材,电子目录,14M。9 w. G# V+ c' ?7 d+ t0 q4 D
0 A1 _! v9 N& H4 b内容提要
8 w/ h7 v2 k) F: K! m本书讨论了纤维、纱线与织物(包括机织物、针织物及非织造布)的结构、机械性能、物理性能及使用性能。涉及的纤维势括天然纤维(如棉、毛、麻、丝等)、传统化学纤维及新型化学纤维。本书同时介绍了纤维、纱线和织物的各种标准测试方法(包括国际上常用的ASTM, AATCC及GB等方法),并讨论了与各种测试方法有关的测试原理及对测试结果的影响因素。, o: C3 l" T }: D& S- O, i
本书可供高等纺织院校纺织、服装相关专业的本科生及研究生作为《纺织材料学》的双语教材或专业英语教材,也可供其他专业师生、纺织贸易专业人员和科研及生产单位的技术人员参考。/ O8 k, B/ v2 w) r' g' t$ v- J
目录* T5 ?: |$ U2 `2 M: O9 [" z0 R; R
Part Ⅰ An Introduction to Textiles/纺织入门 18- L9 V V% o7 g, }" h, ]5 J* r5 n
Chapter 1 Introduction/介绍 18
8 F- g+ o; U% @$ ^% a. b 1.1 ASTM Standard Terminology Relating to Textiles/ASTM纺织标准术语 18
) a* F( }4 M- ]' i 1.2 Fiber history/纤维历史 26) ^+ m) m! `% P/ G4 T
1.2.1 Natural fibers/天然纤维 26) y1 k; {! Y% {) H5 a
1.2.2 Man-made fibers/化学纤维 27( ]/ L; M- ]/ p9 h
Questions/思考题 30! c. S/ Q+ O( u& ~# p0 \$ h
Part Ⅱ Textile Fibers/纺织纤维 32
! k/ L7 q6 m9 q Chapter 2 Natural Cellulosic Fibers/天然纤维素纤维 32
9 L$ M8 j v* W: L6 e- N 2.1 Cotton/棉 33
" G$ k' ~1 O3 g2 q: D5 Q. M 2.1.1 Nature of cotton/棉花的种类 33
( t% t. U- B9 S3 M w 2.1.2 Classification/分类 34
* M. a7 V5 j/ J$ _3 { 2.1.3 Growth and structure of cotton/棉纤维的生长与结构 344 P( v. M- z" S! v$ u
2.1.4 Maturity/成熟度 36( k" Y8 C, L/ B) b. q* f
2.1.5 Cotton properties/棉纤维的性能 38( l5 x. D1 r/ b6 I) m. D6 i
2.1.6 Cotton classification/棉花分级 39& S8 b5 R0 N, M( I3 T" ]
2.2 Bast fibers/韧皮纤维 405 U% f/ ^4 f( E! ?- n& z. m
2.2.1 Flax (linen)/亚麻,亚麻织物 41% E/ b9 R& U t6 D3 j
2.2.2 Ramie/苎麻 43! x0 V( t2 B" Y9 z+ }8 E
2.2.3 Hemp/汉麻 44" j: I; ?! y/ \4 B: P$ @& Y2 |
2.2.4 Jute/黄麻 44
9 O. q% _- v. f5 \* j v t* G Questions/思考题 45
2 n' N3 L6 i7 n+ q( V Chapter 3 Natural Protein Fibers/天然蛋白质纤维 46
4 a3 W' X% H6 ]8 u/ ?/ j( S2 \ 3.1 Wool/绵羊毛 46
0 O9 ~5 `, q; @4 o 3.1.1 Wool production and history/羊毛生产和历史 46- O% k* y" Q. n
3.1.2 Wool grading/羊毛分级 47- }& l+ P y. _1 Y$ W ?% }0 t
3.1.3 Wool structure/羊毛结构 47
9 h& Q$ S* E5 G, ]3 N J; ^ 3.1.4 Wool properties/羊毛性能 48
: D! U2 c- P& i 3.2 Specialty animal fibers/特种动物毛 51; s6 W6 s$ u2 W; c1 t: q
3.3 Silk/丝 52/ l- J8 d# q/ ^+ s1 o
Questions/思考题 54
; f3 z4 I: q6 P* L, V; O- Y, M Chapter 4 Man-made Fibers/化学纤维 55
% `4 Q: S+ C7 x- g9 p 4.1 Manufacturing processing of fiber/纤维生产工艺 55
& U& I, N" F# g; q$ G# g, F- ?5 f% | 4.1.1 Wet spinning/湿法纺丝 56# I$ j% u# ~, @' E( M" d" g
4.1.2 Dry spinning/干法纺丝 56
$ h2 L# m# _4 X5 X 4.1.3 Melt spinning/熔体法纺丝 56' j7 r3 v m# k6 Q
4.1.4 Gel spinning/凝胶纺丝 579 S$ d4 w- A J2 z' K4 ?) j; u6 c
4.2 Regenerated fibers/再生纤维 57
% A$ Z; @" a5 _4 h3 B+ A; X 4.2.1 Acetate/醋酯纤维 57
; l) T' T- \2 j3 c. w/ B 4.2.2 Triacetate/三醋酯纤维 592 a+ y$ s# h9 h
4.2.3 Viscose fibers/粘胶纤维 59, {+ w, F- @6 b
4.3 Synthetic fibers/合成纤维 60
) r+ |! f2 G- ^9 p5 J7 j1 X" ^7 @ 4.3.1 Acrylic/腈纶 60
" U+ B& u# |; k( N% R7 i7 j 4.3.2 Modacrylic/改性腈纶 61! f& P+ V+ m; k; z$ O z3 f
4.3.3 Nylon/锦纶 61
1 G# _/ P& E7 _$ y" w 4.3.4 Polyester/涤纶 62
, c7 @, Q' ?7 Y( v' R2 t 4.3.5 PBI/聚苯并咪唑纤维 63" t2 l2 u! V. I* A) s" Z
4.3.6 Vinal/聚乙烯醇纤维 63
- e0 i. b6 r9 K* b3 S6 Y+ [ 4.3.7 Olefin/聚烯烃纤维 634 c3 s# S- A7 P3 v. R
4.3.8 Aramid/芳纶 64
5 W- F6 Q# s" B- z 4.3.9 Lycra/莱卡 64
; _: K) @$ V0 I, H; v; s 4.4 Other man-made fibers/其他化学纤维 663 `% ^: B: h, s& `
4.4.1 Glass/玻璃纤维 66. w. U2 |: _) ?7 T/ {& W( Q# p0 P
4.4.2 Metallic/金属纤维 67/ {$ n% ~" p J' {: s1 |3 K* [
Questions/思考题 672 L7 p% x. i) X% r
Chapter 5 New Fibers/新型纤维 68
! _2 q! Z2 T7 x& { 5.1 Carbon fibers/碳纤维 68
9 v, W' h) k% c+ |9 M 5.2 Fluorocarbon/氟碳纤维 687 u$ A+ w% P1 B$ e! N/ P3 N& r
5.3 Lyocell fibers(Tencel)/莱塞尔纤维 68
0 S8 Z! B3 l. ~' L 5.4 High-wet-modulus fibers/高湿模量纤维 69
0 c: `- ]) ^3 V* t/ r 5.4.1 Modal fibers/莫代尔纤维 69% b! C. b6 O; w4 C3 n
5.4.2 Richcel/丽赛纤维 70# \, m0 C1 I1 |0 w1 }( h
5.5 Soybean protein composite fibers/大豆蛋白复合纤维 70! q+ K# `% x: c; C( q/ m7 S' p2 C) ]
5.6 PLA fiber/聚左旋乳酸纤维 71
8 y8 H6 V! |; G 5.7 Heterogenous fibers/复合纤维 718 Q& I* E1 O$ _% h
5.7.1 Bicomponent or multicomponent/双组分或多组分 72
+ ]/ v8 R) v- H+ {5 _, M9 q 5.7.2 Biconstituent or multiconstituent/双成分或多成分 73
1 C" b: t% t3 t" A& Q$ n 5.7.3 Matrix or matrix-fibril/基质型纤维 73
% {; O+ ] l1 ] 5.8 Differential fibers/差别化纤维 749 [* `. o7 |$ P
5.9 Functional fibers/功能性纤维 74: ?) l. A$ s7 Z2 ?+ Y5 q7 L
5.10 High performance fibers/高性能纤维 748 |) c& Q7 U$ s, z, u+ b- Q ~% j
Questions/思考题 74; W6 }( V. o) x% }" g9 K
Chapter 6 The Property of Absorbing Moisture/吸湿性 75
7 a: x% a/ Y% }5 |/ s ^1 T 6.1 Orientation and crystallization/取向与结晶 75
3 o7 O _2 I9 x. g, K 6.2 Moisture sorption/吸湿性 75) M% r4 A% i& N! r( N, R
6.2.1 Regain and moisture content/回潮率与含水率 75
/ J$ ^8 Z- |$ u* J5 t' U: a0 I 6.2.2 Relation between regain and relative humidity/回潮率与相对湿度的关系 756 X/ o+ j r j! @# y
6.2.3 Comparison of various materials/不同材料吸湿性的对比 76
- E4 q# u6 `* P; z 6.2.4 Theories of moisture sorption/吸湿理论 78
3 M6 Y4 C1 ~; e: Y Questions/思考题 80
4 N6 a. y6 G% S6 I Chapter 7 Other Physical Properties of Textile Fibers/纤维的其他物理性能 814 u1 l. Y: ?# L- x* n! [" P: k
7.1 Electronic properties/电学性能 81
\3 T+ t9 _( [4 R. i7 `4 R/ M& s 7.1.1 Definitions/定义 81
9 ~9 j# r, u5 R& C. w% i( ` 7.2 Optical properties/光学性能 82 l; S6 v* I: o% u
7.3 Thermal properties/热学性能 83$ m0 i7 {9 m1 L+ p" s1 o6 R
7.3.1 Thermal parameters/热力学参数 83
* R1 ~# m/ t& K/ i 7.3.2 A comparison of temperature effects/温度效应比较 835 V7 B+ S6 q% U; Q. e
Questions/思考题 83& z) D2 _7 K/ R% T3 X; [
Part Ⅲ Textile Yarns/纺织纱线 84
. l% a: k a5 h* U% e Chapter 8 Yarn Processing and Construction/纱线制造与结构 84
: k, k; A* g8 N' G- t, [ l 8.1 Spun yarns/短纤纱 853 Y, ?% V( T m0 d5 E3 L+ `
8.2 Filament yarns/长丝纱 85
; z* F: t: } y& K 8.3 Methods of yarn processing/纺纱方法 85 ~. S* x% m" A$ c, z. \9 r' k
8.3.1 Ring-spinning/环锭纺 86
: I- J P3 @; ^' C) R( A 8.3.2 New methods of yarn processing/新型纺纱方法 86
$ Q2 B6 R9 p4 \: a 8.4 Single and ply yarns/单纱和股线 896 j8 s# u7 V7 F9 E
8.5 Special types of yarn/特种纱线 90
! O1 r8 t: h8 g! y( e6 `: t 8.5.1 Fancy yarns/花式纱 90) Q: @& {$ d- M5 s5 M, f$ y P9 y
8.5.2 Stretch yarns/弹力纱 912 @4 Y: A: k- Y _7 h, E2 Q' S
8.5.3 Textured yarns 变形纱线 91, x9 H6 `& B. V) }
8.6 Blends and mixtures yarns/纱线混纺与混用 92" j( W' q/ a/ H: E6 U
Questions/思考题 93; Q: M5 K: I) p! u# ?7 f2 R' K
Chapter 9 Yarn Properties/纱线性能 94$ R4 K+ Q4 t& Q( x( u/ P
9.1 Yarn number/纱线细度 94
0 x# q1 Q& ~2 j 9.1.1 Denier system/旦数 94
( A, j3 @, ]: A8 u: c( s 9.1.2 Yarn count system/纱线英制支数 94 D6 j$ ^0 l5 M" r% C
9.1.3 Tex system/线密度 95% |8 [7 y5 p5 L. ]9 E9 L4 h5 Q* e4 K6 e
9.1.4 Metric numbering system/公制支数 95
7 }; I( x* M5 x- y' P 9.1.5 Conversion in different systems/不同系统之间的换算 95, U- t( S* m9 t; y: |9 _( Q
9.2 Ply yarn counts and singles equivalent/股线支数与单纱支数 95
0 j# ?; Q4 q5 x* N( t 9.3 Yarn twist/纱线捻度 96- f0 `! |# Q4 ~
9.4 Yarn hairiness/纱线毛羽 97" Q; T$ d+ A% `4 I
9.4.1 Hairiness test method/毛羽测试方法 985 d. v2 C5 Z, s
9.4.2 Factors affecting hairiness/影响毛羽的因素 98; ]0 A7 j; N( C) N2 I
9.5 Yarn unevenness/纱线不匀 99
& |- o3 }% X+ ]* I/ | 9.5.1 Test of yarn unevenness/纱线不匀的测试 994 }6 T) ?9 E+ n$ ? j: ^5 P
9.5.2 Reasons for yarn unevenness/纱线不匀的原因 100/ ~2 ? s3 a# Y/ b, h
9.6 Classification of yarn quality/纱线质量分析 100
" u; z: j6 u5 }" Y1 E5 \ Questions/思考题 100" c0 `# E, Q8 k9 n
Part Ⅳ Textile Fabrics/织物 102
, R. p6 j3 v8 T- S, B# e; P1 T Chapter 10 Woven Fabrics/机织物 102; R6 R2 w# I5 f) x; P
10.1 Making woven fabrics/织制机织物 102
! R5 ]6 ?$ d: @# C. H 10.1.1 The loom/织机 102( s) K+ a9 h. H
10.1.2 Loom type/织机类型 104
5 u, u" r. \6 u% M: }* S( W: H& y/ Z 10.1.3 Loom motions/织机运动 104: X' P0 |2 \' O
10.1.4 Electronics in weaving/电子技术在织机中的应用 105
" v0 [: ^% @. @* \8 S) q% D9 C- @ 10.1.5 The selvage/布边 105
: A$ s9 \3 C H& S 10.2 Warp yarns and filling yarns/经纱和纬纱 105
R- L5 o$ K! f7 o- Q 10.2.1 Identification/鉴别 106" |: f' o1 v) E6 A$ g$ J* W
10.3 Face and back/正面与反面 106
I# Y9 x. N9 \+ t( W# q* ~' s 10.3.1 Reasons for differenee/存在差异的原因 107
/ Y0 d0 H5 J7 h! P 10.3.2 Caution/应用的要点 107
+ p- W5 ^1 [# w, t. i5 R, ^ 10.4 Top and bottom/顶端和底端 107! c7 l: E' I/ ?# T9 {
10.4.1 Reasons for difference/存在差异的原因 1078 X- b% v+ } d# D m+ A2 ~6 h
10.5 Weave floats/组织浮线 108
' ^* p) ^; p* O 10.6 Basic weaves/基本组织 108
( n- P$ A, H5 a8 Y 10.6.1 Plain weave/平纹组织 108 y' Y5 D" M. a' [# a% N
10.6.2 Twill weave/斜纹组织 109
+ V9 h6 K- E0 O 10.6.3 Satin weave/缎纹组织 111
) k0 x/ J# W0 b' W3 K 10.7 Fabric performance and characteristics/织物性能和参数 1124 \' A5 k! b0 K
10.7.1 Fabric width/幅宽 112
/ ^) l" o2 Q& p1 \5 X 10.7.2 Fabric weight/织物重量 112
# _& P. T M% w! k7 v! f; Y- X9 W 10.7.3 Fabric thickness/织物厚度 113
* N# T+ x# p9 x# C* s, C. i 10.7.4 Fabric density/织物密度 113
) }6 U: U" C/ b6 c/ k) X 10.7.5 Fabric count/织物经纬密度 113
+ M% x+ E1 |2 U" n3 w( B 10.7.6 Fabric defects/织物疵点 113
2 c x& T) S% c; y Questions/思考题 113
2 Z0 o& I# k$ T. y7 b6 ]0 ^, ?7 Z6 b Chapter 11 Knitted Fabrics/针织物 114# A. N9 S3 H1 n j' h
11.1 Making of knitted fabric/针织物形成 114
( l' r/ K$ ~3 Z# A 11.1.1 The forming of knitted stitches/线圈的形成 114
6 d: a( R( `% Y9 M 11.1.2 Types of knitted stitches/线圈的种类 116
. W" P6 u8 L q ~4 b [5 [# F 11.2 Weft knits/纬编针织物 117
: C" N) Q! h) Z% {7 A$ l 11.2.1 Jersey knit fabric/纬平针织物 117. C+ G" b4 O5 }, P9 ?4 N. w- ^
11.2.2 Rib knit fabric/罗纹针织物 118
$ G R$ U, T7 a- P$ Y6 H5 q 11.2.3 Purl knit fabric/双反面针织物 1199 K1 @# J z/ F0 x
11.2.4 Double knits/双面针织物 120
6 V. K* |" j/ f: g. i 11.2.5 Full-fashioned knits/全成形针织物 1200 n H l& q* z) w: C
11.3 Warp knits/经编针织物 1210 X+ G7 X6 b$ A" N# g. ^0 t/ |" e# N
11.3.1 Tricot fabrics/特里科经编针织物 121
# p& H+ E2 h2 E* g 11.3.2 Raschel fabrics/拉舍尔经编针织物 122
0 s" r/ x1 |' ?9 M' ]! X' @* i9 o* _ 11.4 Performance and characteristics/性能和参数 122
6 I e- X2 @8 [7 h, ^3 S Questions/思考题 123
[+ ?+ T; Z' {% q- d, d m# q Chapter 12 Nonwoven Fabrics/非织造布 124
7 x( }( J7 ~4 H" v 12.1 Introduction/导论 124
$ E4 I" R3 C' b" T+ I% G2 U 12.2 Manufacturing methods/生产方法 125. B4 H. Q- `. A4 w) t
12.2.1 Dry laid system/干法成网 125
+ i; g t4 \$ m4 r* I" K, W 12.2.2 Wet laid system/湿法成网 125( D: E L5 f4 ]2 k% l1 U
12.2.3 Polymer laid system/聚合物挤压法 125: h+ p$ c8 P5 J0 M V- x5 n
12.3 Various nonwovens/各种非织造布 125
% t8 M, l* u5 c; D P2 n. M 12.3.1 Needle punched nonwovens/针刺法非织造布 125
1 U" B' ]- \2 I- c+ U: c 12.3.2 Bonded web nonwovens/黏合法非织造布 126/ ~# J, [ T4 v
12.3.3 Spunlaced nonwovens/射流喷网法非织造布 1271 G5 b h1 n9 p [
12.3.4 Spunbonded nonwovens/纺粘法非织造布 1280 i6 L$ s/ S0 K4 i4 ^) k& E
12.3.5 Melt-blown nonwovens/熔喷法非织造布 129
5 X2 j% S* P! z9 e* p7 c Questions/思考题 129
1 B+ z" Z1 D$ e; x1 ZPart Ⅴ Textile Testing/纺织品测试 130
) x' L) @9 q( j% m$ i7 j Chapter 13 General Test Methods/常规测试方法 130+ k: c' r! }7 X3 u2 P
13.1 General fiber tests/纤维常规测试 130
/ t1 K0 P1 Q# }4 O, }1 s 13.1.1 Fiber identification/纤维鉴别 130" I, W/ e1 V# u( r" `4 M y) i
13.1.2 Fiber length/纤维长度 134
+ R; L& s. u1 r j7 r# n2 M 13.1.3 Fiber fineness or linear density/纤维细度或线密度 135( P9 @/ H- Y; T. \; K
13.1.4 Cross-sectional shape/截面形状 135% ^; M! n, I( _% `" ?
13.1.5 Crimp/卷曲 135. n2 v" l) `8 U0 p7 H4 p
13.1.6 Regain/回潮率 136- L* I: R& p( g! e, {# X) j3 q, P
13.1.7 Mechanical properties/机械性能 136
5 v' d- c5 `* y+ a: _! f 13.1.8 Chemical characteristics/化学性能 136
7 h+ D2 R; o9 ^$ m# \+ w* W 13.1.9 Surface characteristics/表面性能 136
2 [( q8 ^5 c0 c$ k+ w; V1 D 13.1.10 Density and specific gravity/密度和相对密度 137
5 Y9 _5 R" g2 T. h. F- p2 w; p 13.2 Special tests for natural fibers/天然纤维的测试 1374 Z& O9 q; D" Y% g3 }
13.2.1 Tests for cotton/棉纤维测试 137- i/ r" N" Z3 K
13.2.2 Tests for wool/毛纤维测试 139 V! v0 k5 G' l# m) t/ ~
13.3 Testing of tensile properties/拉伸性能测试 140
$ {' f3 r3 s6 v( Y# I2 x 13.3.1 Description of tensile proprieties/拉伸性能的描述 141: ^5 ]' n& f) n5 m% F; U/ X( [
13.3.2 Fiber and yarn tensile testing/纤维和纱线拉伸性能的测试 146
( @0 U2 _! b u) N; w' u Z 13.3.3 Fabric tensile testing/织物拉伸性能测试方法 147) l& w3 x( @. Z6 G1 J# c
Questions/思考题 149
& O1 V, e* I E Chapter 14 Fabric Abrasion and Pilling/织物磨损与起球 150
/ r4 e6 m( }3 t$ Y6 B6 m2 o! u 14.1 Types of abrasion/磨损的类型 1504 _" r$ ~+ X n% d0 F
14.1.1 Abrasion between fabrics/织物间的磨损 150, m6 M1 P5 W9 J/ M. n/ ` o
14.1.2 Abrasion between fabric and a nontextile surface/织物与非纤维制品表面磨损 1505 W; ^6 K8 F5 q& G. r, A5 e
14.1.3 Abrasion within fabric/织物内部磨损 151
, f& a0 l8 w. d2 p* B 14.1.4 Abrasion by foreign materials within the fabric/与织物内部其他材料的磨损 151
, _' |- t) V' [. Y6 Q: V( @ k 14.2 Factors affecting fabric abrasion resistance/影响耐磨性能的因素 151
+ ?9 E7 V t3 F 14.2.1 Fabric properties/织物性能 151+ V6 p/ W# S3 K5 y8 U% ~4 \
14.2.2 Other factors/其他因素 153) T* v# L1 N; y' E: D: `
14.3 Abrasion testing/磨损测试 1544 L3 g2 o: x0 U; f
14.3.1 Visual comparison with an unabraded specimen/与未磨损样品视觉对比 154& ] F2 P! n2 r! a0 \
14.3.2 Number of cycles to produce a hole/产生磨损破洞需要的摩擦圈数 154
( e) r* y& l' t M4 R 14.3.3 Change in a physical property/物理性能的变化 1542 j/ o' g+ I0 j+ V g' e
14.3.4 Microscopic examination/显微镜观测 155
L9 L: a5 o G3 j1 d* ~5 s 14.4 Aesthetics of abrasion and wear/穿着和磨损对美感的影响 155# ^+ ?+ c# m, O* @$ O0 ]* C& X/ o
14.4.1 Color changes caused by abrasion/磨损引起的颜色变化 155- |' V) y7 l% g
14.4.2 Pilling/起球 156+ c. T0 o1 {" z7 H4 S: x8 c' M) O
Questions/思考题 157/ g! ?1 K$ M# h. w3 c
Chapter 15 Fabric Hand and Drape/织物手感与悬垂 158
; M5 V' B& y9 F) S) j7 A$ E& j 15.1 Fabric hand/织物手感 1585 H0 [. s2 K" K
15.2 Fabric drape/织物悬垂 159
8 H. `9 P: i( o# `2 R6 N 15.3 Measurement of hand and drape/手感与悬垂的评价 161
/ y, s! m* ]9 |0 }) G* X) ~ 15.3.1 Subjective evaluation/主观评定法 161- J. ^0 S) b* l* g
15.3.2 Quantitative measurement/定量评定法 162
+ s( b y+ P4 p# E2 A; l! f# g/ X 15.3.3 Kawabata evaluation system/KES评定法 1632 u' H) D% Z9 J6 a7 V6 R
Questions/思考题 163
1 _: a+ {1 s0 h% ]: X7 o Chapter 16 Fabric Colorfastness/织物染色牢度 164
5 _' \; L0 u* C2 @5 ] 16.1 Evaluation of color and colorfastness/颜色和染色牢度评定方法 164) x9 C l- w9 m, r
16.2 Colorfastness tests/染色牢度测试 164
8 U8 [/ _& o) G2 O8 B 16.2.1 Colorfastness to crocking/耐摩擦色牢度 1648 C" s0 v- d9 S5 R$ |, w& a+ E# L
16.2.2 Colorfastness to laundering and bleaching/耐洗涤和耐漂白色牢 165
7 [$ d Y3 ?9 j3 o* N 16.2.3 Colorfastness to drycleaning/耐干洗色牢度 166
" e7 ~- c2 D0 Q 16.2.4 Colorfastness to perspiration/耐汗渍色牢度 166
; ]/ z9 T& t. R; [1 ?6 [. E 16.2.5 Colorfastness to water/耐水浸色牢度 166
0 u6 F2 x5 X0 T) ^' a- K- z W& ? 16.2.6 Colorfastness to light/耐光照色牢度 1675 i) B8 L; ~$ j0 W
16.2.7 Colorfastness to atmospheric contaminants/耐空气污染色牢度 168
# j) S5 P8 p1 E* w Questions/思考题 168
3 E( s# Q" L; L7 m( ?9 ]" f Chapter 17 Fabric Flammability/织物可燃性 169
% N& W; V; h/ h7 M& Z$ X8 E 17.1 Flammability standards/可燃性标准 1692 }5 ~% i3 ]$ _5 H8 T8 k
17.2 Properties affecting flammability/影响可燃性的因素 1693 l- O# y% j; l/ p& \
17.3 Flammability testing/可燃性测试 171
& r$ a. E! a6 j 17.3.1 Forty-five degree angle test/45°燃烧测试法 171
: e: i w) p5 n; k" ^- _ 17.3.2 Vertical flame tests/垂直燃烧测试法 172$ ~1 X4 ~) x7 S- Q. P" F
17.3.3 Carpet testing/地毯测试 172; w/ E( T; s& u) p( D8 A# U3 ]
17.3.4 Cigarette tests/卷烟点燃测试 172
; `$ |. H: X. {6 E# P8 V! m 17.3.5 Other standard flammability tests/其他可燃性测试 173
2 t2 I F9 ]& e* | Questions/思考题 173& q! X }$ [% z! V x7 O
Chapter 18 Comfort of Textiles/纺织品舒适性 174& q! ?, ?; X8 P) i
18.1 Physical phenomena affecting thermal comfort/影响热舒适性能的物理现象 1747 O- O7 Q) _8 Q4 m4 ~
18.1.1 Heat transfer/热传递 174, U" P; l8 U! E( p
18.1.2 Moisture transfer/湿传递 175
" V2 f; O0 l, ^% ^! ` 18.1.3 Water resistance/抗水性 175
1 Q/ L8 G/ D; g7 T 18.1.4 Air transfer/透气性 1764 o5 p7 h$ n% y- k1 O
18.1.5 Porosity and cover factor/多孔性和覆盖系数 176- {7 M: S5 ~0 s8 g5 y; P
18.1.6 Electrostatic propensity/静电 1773 u+ i* w0 j- t, `: [
18.2 Evaluations of textile properties related to comfort/与舒适性相关的纺织品性能评价 177
- g4 e" W8 D. ~. P3 g) K 18.2.1 Heat transfer/热传递 178% x8 B2 j* f4 b7 r
18.2.2 Moisture properties/湿传递性能 1796 f! j8 x4 G. R$ T W
18.2.3 Air permeability/透气性 1797 V0 M2 ~4 W. F' v0 n1 L
18.2.4 Porosity/孔隙率 180
* m" _ Y: }5 Y8 L+ D8 n 18.2.5 Electrostatic tests/静电测试 180
8 K9 `" G% }$ }4 R8 r0 s Questions/思考题 180
3 Q& N! f, `. v. E8 l; @0 M2 d5 AAppendix/附录 181
) x: T3 _ `4 i6 d$ H AATCC:AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS/美国纺织化学家与染色家协会 181: x" M8 ^! ]3 b+ Y J' y
ASTM:AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR TESTING AND MATERIALS/美国材料试验学会 184
% F1 w, V- k' QVocabulary/词汇表 189
* N1 Q: H: v* X3 r! Z7 q, IReferences/参考文献 1974 x& L* q2 {1 f
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