
纺织材料学(双语教材),刘妍,熊磊,PDF。普通高等教育“十一五”国家级规划教材(本科),纺织工程专业双语教材,电子目录,14M。. j1 G2 W5 L0 j# U8 [& O& R
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内容提要
& p. c' ]( @% H( C* ~) H本书讨论了纤维、纱线与织物(包括机织物、针织物及非织造布)的结构、机械性能、物理性能及使用性能。涉及的纤维势括天然纤维(如棉、毛、麻、丝等)、传统化学纤维及新型化学纤维。本书同时介绍了纤维、纱线和织物的各种标准测试方法(包括国际上常用的ASTM, AATCC及GB等方法),并讨论了与各种测试方法有关的测试原理及对测试结果的影响因素。
2 I5 a. M- k S; O% `9 J本书可供高等纺织院校纺织、服装相关专业的本科生及研究生作为《纺织材料学》的双语教材或专业英语教材,也可供其他专业师生、纺织贸易专业人员和科研及生产单位的技术人员参考。4 B# F- F( R# H* w
目录
1 y2 Y9 A7 a5 h8 d$ J2 {' aPart Ⅰ An Introduction to Textiles/纺织入门 18
; L; b; D! B8 n: V2 Z Chapter 1 Introduction/介绍 189 U+ w4 ~$ s5 W" b+ g. I
1.1 ASTM Standard Terminology Relating to Textiles/ASTM纺织标准术语 18
N5 O+ ^: `4 e9 a 1.2 Fiber history/纤维历史 26
, G+ v$ K: j8 A! b G, P4 P 1.2.1 Natural fibers/天然纤维 26
' X+ X m( O I+ U& l8 E 1.2.2 Man-made fibers/化学纤维 27( b, D* }0 K& _( g3 _, a
Questions/思考题 30
. r" Z" D+ l/ r9 ^$ U' K, W HPart Ⅱ Textile Fibers/纺织纤维 32) {$ Z% I$ c. C7 m6 T2 F+ p; `' s
Chapter 2 Natural Cellulosic Fibers/天然纤维素纤维 32) j& @# u$ }- r& q7 {$ h: e+ d' k4 g
2.1 Cotton/棉 33! Z: e D* O; C7 z
2.1.1 Nature of cotton/棉花的种类 33
* G- O$ {/ l& {' w# f/ F @# i 2.1.2 Classification/分类 34
' y& E; i. }* [/ j; q( Q* P 2.1.3 Growth and structure of cotton/棉纤维的生长与结构 34! n5 b; T. X& w2 m' h
2.1.4 Maturity/成熟度 36- v( M" I1 B4 b# ~ l
2.1.5 Cotton properties/棉纤维的性能 38
2 k% R& k9 W' U/ h. ]0 E 2.1.6 Cotton classification/棉花分级 39' m1 y2 @+ e3 K' c1 Q
2.2 Bast fibers/韧皮纤维 40
% b) f) G* T* T6 ]; q 2.2.1 Flax (linen)/亚麻,亚麻织物 41
% W$ p5 D5 ~3 ` 2.2.2 Ramie/苎麻 43+ u; x# S w5 e+ r/ f0 b; ~' r6 r5 |$ [
2.2.3 Hemp/汉麻 442 h% T+ [) B/ Y8 I9 i' c
2.2.4 Jute/黄麻 449 z& Z; {$ e* P/ b/ g
Questions/思考题 45
9 O$ D% k& H3 ]" H, q" U+ c @ Chapter 3 Natural Protein Fibers/天然蛋白质纤维 462 C! Z3 e' F$ F# R
3.1 Wool/绵羊毛 463 u8 g% ]5 _2 w; D5 Z: l8 `: o5 R
3.1.1 Wool production and history/羊毛生产和历史 46
8 u% U. F( _2 d0 |8 o4 a& r$ b5 e 3.1.2 Wool grading/羊毛分级 478 Y, ^5 `$ B$ y1 s( {$ t6 M; o
3.1.3 Wool structure/羊毛结构 47* U5 _: \7 b5 c" D
3.1.4 Wool properties/羊毛性能 48" Q2 ]5 s c' u; M8 b3 F% q% _
3.2 Specialty animal fibers/特种动物毛 514 Y+ ?% p( ^2 s! |: h$ s
3.3 Silk/丝 52
4 {! }" m' {! W- T* G W! r Questions/思考题 54
' W9 l! J, ~) a Chapter 4 Man-made Fibers/化学纤维 55
# Y% \- Q* J! N$ k7 I5 A 4.1 Manufacturing processing of fiber/纤维生产工艺 55
# {( A& |! e9 ?# R% Q/ T% B3 N 4.1.1 Wet spinning/湿法纺丝 56
# Z2 W5 w% K2 \4 \" X 4.1.2 Dry spinning/干法纺丝 56
7 Y8 l& x, M/ Y+ X2 d; u- }8 u 4.1.3 Melt spinning/熔体法纺丝 56: e' w* H$ p+ |+ Q2 P
4.1.4 Gel spinning/凝胶纺丝 576 {- g# X1 A' t4 J2 T! `+ Q' J
4.2 Regenerated fibers/再生纤维 57& w8 p0 _# j' z* K# Z3 B9 Q. N
4.2.1 Acetate/醋酯纤维 57
6 Y# v) X1 J- A7 [) u! t 4.2.2 Triacetate/三醋酯纤维 59( x& Q( j9 U! ]: n9 o Q5 o; W
4.2.3 Viscose fibers/粘胶纤维 59/ r1 h, d d7 ?2 K+ x/ ~
4.3 Synthetic fibers/合成纤维 60
% l5 Y$ \4 K) H3 W* l% w 4.3.1 Acrylic/腈纶 60
& k$ ?% q0 g! D8 x4 X, x 4.3.2 Modacrylic/改性腈纶 61& v+ Y! s0 i7 K* ^" z" H8 t0 l3 L. `9 S
4.3.3 Nylon/锦纶 61* L1 i7 ^( u0 E7 M) s9 M7 D
4.3.4 Polyester/涤纶 62; C; c1 E+ \8 Q; b+ w9 s
4.3.5 PBI/聚苯并咪唑纤维 63 w- A8 ~7 x- j4 o9 q7 E0 A
4.3.6 Vinal/聚乙烯醇纤维 636 w+ W: a: r1 F+ ^ X
4.3.7 Olefin/聚烯烃纤维 63
3 _. W2 J8 v8 U/ e 4.3.8 Aramid/芳纶 64
D# N! d5 c. Y2 s0 P 4.3.9 Lycra/莱卡 64
% N- `' R" f+ ?1 h9 Q! ~8 {$ a3 D, p 4.4 Other man-made fibers/其他化学纤维 66) w5 g: c: g- b" o) P `
4.4.1 Glass/玻璃纤维 66! Q9 U ]2 Z3 V! ]7 y+ k
4.4.2 Metallic/金属纤维 67
9 p( d4 l' q: E& [ Questions/思考题 67# q2 r, D5 N |/ @) z5 b' `1 A( L. ~
Chapter 5 New Fibers/新型纤维 68
8 p7 o- m |) N! q0 f 5.1 Carbon fibers/碳纤维 68
: @+ N x& O! V' {: ^ 5.2 Fluorocarbon/氟碳纤维 68) z( f8 D+ t" p G5 ]
5.3 Lyocell fibers(Tencel)/莱塞尔纤维 68
/ L5 m) F: j- n% L 5.4 High-wet-modulus fibers/高湿模量纤维 693 w1 u1 k) ^$ U& i$ b: H- Q1 f6 D
5.4.1 Modal fibers/莫代尔纤维 69
& X$ V( x" L4 B& Y2 }8 } 5.4.2 Richcel/丽赛纤维 70$ @- q3 i4 X4 V/ d
5.5 Soybean protein composite fibers/大豆蛋白复合纤维 70# T8 O3 g/ ]/ l: l# H* P
5.6 PLA fiber/聚左旋乳酸纤维 716 V$ B. H& s& M$ w* s) k
5.7 Heterogenous fibers/复合纤维 714 V5 J4 ~( V! x F5 U4 m) y
5.7.1 Bicomponent or multicomponent/双组分或多组分 72
% ]4 i" o8 q7 _) w6 S 5.7.2 Biconstituent or multiconstituent/双成分或多成分 73' J/ O, |, L$ f6 s- `
5.7.3 Matrix or matrix-fibril/基质型纤维 73+ H' y4 ?1 x, z
5.8 Differential fibers/差别化纤维 74
# K R% e" |5 f1 j! M 5.9 Functional fibers/功能性纤维 74
^' T! [: l3 ^/ i/ n7 T 5.10 High performance fibers/高性能纤维 74' K# N4 k/ h) d- a+ X, R$ {9 E
Questions/思考题 74
! p4 E5 W5 f" v' N, b8 z4 A" j Chapter 6 The Property of Absorbing Moisture/吸湿性 75
" x' w7 }! \5 u ^" O" Y+ k- k 6.1 Orientation and crystallization/取向与结晶 75
, t* s+ M! S! H 6.2 Moisture sorption/吸湿性 750 _, [: w2 p! [9 G9 R' t, O
6.2.1 Regain and moisture content/回潮率与含水率 754 D0 Y! s' h$ Z$ D
6.2.2 Relation between regain and relative humidity/回潮率与相对湿度的关系 75
( }/ S$ c; |+ V3 \# Z 6.2.3 Comparison of various materials/不同材料吸湿性的对比 76
1 ~7 f# n$ p/ ~: [1 D 6.2.4 Theories of moisture sorption/吸湿理论 78, C* @ X: R% j' w4 f2 _
Questions/思考题 80 {+ w* k0 m4 D2 Y" `
Chapter 7 Other Physical Properties of Textile Fibers/纤维的其他物理性能 81( P; \2 N* K z7 J
7.1 Electronic properties/电学性能 811 A$ h5 Y. J% G
7.1.1 Definitions/定义 81$ k$ d+ \& I: G, a( ?, U8 F
7.2 Optical properties/光学性能 82& D4 D# h( q) ]& J% t0 x
7.3 Thermal properties/热学性能 83) H; M* c @8 O# B7 Z3 b6 F& a. F* K" j
7.3.1 Thermal parameters/热力学参数 83
6 p5 B, z$ x' M3 ^7 K$ V& b" m 7.3.2 A comparison of temperature effects/温度效应比较 83# q! ~; t( S9 f( v n/ z, ^
Questions/思考题 83
( Z+ I2 ^- X+ \) @8 L" U/ T* X, pPart Ⅲ Textile Yarns/纺织纱线 84# @% g$ D6 `& G1 ]; {
Chapter 8 Yarn Processing and Construction/纱线制造与结构 84
; U! N3 L7 J) N' c' |+ e$ \8 ~ 8.1 Spun yarns/短纤纱 85! O) Z: Z# H, q( P# O% j* ^' g' B
8.2 Filament yarns/长丝纱 85
7 y! V Z+ z# S$ R q 8.3 Methods of yarn processing/纺纱方法 85+ a6 E+ j5 z& g; B( i+ b2 Y! o1 t
8.3.1 Ring-spinning/环锭纺 86
& S2 S, ]% j+ a1 q 8.3.2 New methods of yarn processing/新型纺纱方法 867 ]# j" x# U3 e
8.4 Single and ply yarns/单纱和股线 89
) {3 |$ w b6 F7 Z) z. b2 Y/ Z 8.5 Special types of yarn/特种纱线 90
8 M* ?) f2 c$ J3 _0 [ ^! B- Z! M 8.5.1 Fancy yarns/花式纱 909 H; C8 {1 X5 f$ u* e. Y
8.5.2 Stretch yarns/弹力纱 91% B/ r4 v" n3 T1 Z
8.5.3 Textured yarns 变形纱线 91- q/ R4 C H& Z( U5 h7 d2 l
8.6 Blends and mixtures yarns/纱线混纺与混用 92+ T/ D- F; `( z* I! E
Questions/思考题 93
8 F: T: M4 {# X+ v+ j Chapter 9 Yarn Properties/纱线性能 94
& V' O! t+ `1 l8 I 9.1 Yarn number/纱线细度 94# D2 j( l# Q( v% U* ?
9.1.1 Denier system/旦数 944 {- l: W* }# V; I7 U8 j1 |
9.1.2 Yarn count system/纱线英制支数 94' z) Z, N9 `& Z |5 p- Q6 ]
9.1.3 Tex system/线密度 95
' n. \4 c$ z4 W5 L( c v& o- | 9.1.4 Metric numbering system/公制支数 95
0 ^/ W" N0 t9 i. T, X* c 9.1.5 Conversion in different systems/不同系统之间的换算 95
" W" ]+ i+ p9 P. K( r- t 9.2 Ply yarn counts and singles equivalent/股线支数与单纱支数 953 F# E- G1 b, Z0 |/ y+ t
9.3 Yarn twist/纱线捻度 96
! s1 y( Z# Y0 z" P) m 9.4 Yarn hairiness/纱线毛羽 97 f% n" l4 x) ~( q" e5 t
9.4.1 Hairiness test method/毛羽测试方法 98
2 d1 j* c6 p2 T" E( I 9.4.2 Factors affecting hairiness/影响毛羽的因素 98( y& j* m- K% F) X' o0 e
9.5 Yarn unevenness/纱线不匀 99
$ u/ w$ ?9 W7 b# R 9.5.1 Test of yarn unevenness/纱线不匀的测试 99+ Q, n) j. `. J0 k# b) O% K
9.5.2 Reasons for yarn unevenness/纱线不匀的原因 100+ H9 _* v( m) w3 x
9.6 Classification of yarn quality/纱线质量分析 100
9 E# v) d* k% w3 r Questions/思考题 100& l q, R& L7 ?0 J
Part Ⅳ Textile Fabrics/织物 102& V+ l& {0 k, D. H1 O& u
Chapter 10 Woven Fabrics/机织物 102, j1 a \5 I$ ~
10.1 Making woven fabrics/织制机织物 102
: j8 F3 i7 b& J* L- B; [ 10.1.1 The loom/织机 102. g. c$ M5 u. r( W; U9 q H$ \( z
10.1.2 Loom type/织机类型 104
: P/ O( f+ j" ?$ ` m, L2 C* G& c 10.1.3 Loom motions/织机运动 104
8 {# w: o/ _/ H; _0 u# a2 y# w" H 10.1.4 Electronics in weaving/电子技术在织机中的应用 105
' w) F, \! o$ l3 ]( o! k 10.1.5 The selvage/布边 105/ C) n8 ~( {# {1 K
10.2 Warp yarns and filling yarns/经纱和纬纱 1052 X4 Q# T: n9 K% o' {
10.2.1 Identification/鉴别 106
" [8 f( y) a( Y( p 10.3 Face and back/正面与反面 1067 M7 C" H6 |* K% o2 {# c5 H; n
10.3.1 Reasons for differenee/存在差异的原因 1073 H9 T8 Y: h- g r8 P K
10.3.2 Caution/应用的要点 107
7 T6 _" p9 U0 C5 e 10.4 Top and bottom/顶端和底端 107( U, m. Y* f+ E e
10.4.1 Reasons for difference/存在差异的原因 1075 v; z+ G2 U( Y! l0 x+ c0 [
10.5 Weave floats/组织浮线 108
' n6 R7 Z5 m6 R- Z- O. \+ { 10.6 Basic weaves/基本组织 108
% _/ N. f; O! ?1 e* X; K, C- ? 10.6.1 Plain weave/平纹组织 108
, ~9 E, n; M( v1 U, q( o* g; | 10.6.2 Twill weave/斜纹组织 109) |$ F+ h2 ^8 V' l2 I6 G6 M, k
10.6.3 Satin weave/缎纹组织 111' j" Z8 u$ o- C" o# ]( R( }* [
10.7 Fabric performance and characteristics/织物性能和参数 112
* q; l0 F0 f: H( S- } 10.7.1 Fabric width/幅宽 112# E& `8 ?1 c( i9 i1 L
10.7.2 Fabric weight/织物重量 112
- o9 K% k4 G2 q8 {' Z4 g 10.7.3 Fabric thickness/织物厚度 113
- A: s' I1 c0 r9 P9 e% G+ H7 B# a 10.7.4 Fabric density/织物密度 113
2 Q% B% x4 j5 P$ E. o4 Z4 | 10.7.5 Fabric count/织物经纬密度 113
6 z" `# O$ v# U3 ^6 J 10.7.6 Fabric defects/织物疵点 113; P- ^5 d% M6 c) y% Y
Questions/思考题 113+ j' L2 R# x% T
Chapter 11 Knitted Fabrics/针织物 1144 F+ [( J6 b. i; ^% ]
11.1 Making of knitted fabric/针织物形成 114
: |* H9 @. D! \( }4 ^ 11.1.1 The forming of knitted stitches/线圈的形成 1140 ]2 Z$ c3 e1 G/ p+ D
11.1.2 Types of knitted stitches/线圈的种类 116
: L6 P. l8 m c# X3 k. b 11.2 Weft knits/纬编针织物 117* c9 g$ Y2 |# Z) `" p$ X( z
11.2.1 Jersey knit fabric/纬平针织物 117
$ N1 d0 M/ Q9 A9 G. H 11.2.2 Rib knit fabric/罗纹针织物 118
" Y$ ]4 |/ Z- A/ {0 L 11.2.3 Purl knit fabric/双反面针织物 119
3 Y0 }* v- `) Y: D+ d+ w7 U 11.2.4 Double knits/双面针织物 120
3 }- d" V% b* h2 D 11.2.5 Full-fashioned knits/全成形针织物 120
) j: V4 }2 `, m, |3 O @: n 11.3 Warp knits/经编针织物 121
9 y8 h; k( J! S8 ~+ e2 f' ^ 11.3.1 Tricot fabrics/特里科经编针织物 121
! z: v* a b3 M2 Z% W 11.3.2 Raschel fabrics/拉舍尔经编针织物 122, e; s" X0 T' W0 d% {$ ^8 `5 W5 s! }
11.4 Performance and characteristics/性能和参数 122) G; D; B8 V) b- e0 \
Questions/思考题 123
. S6 `: A2 S2 {! m9 u+ S) i1 o& S Chapter 12 Nonwoven Fabrics/非织造布 124' V+ i- K0 s2 h/ l0 D/ z+ C* t
12.1 Introduction/导论 124
0 x" E5 l. N- O 12.2 Manufacturing methods/生产方法 1254 J2 w/ x: X; E% e% b b
12.2.1 Dry laid system/干法成网 125& Z& h7 @: q# x- n: r3 i8 f' h
12.2.2 Wet laid system/湿法成网 125' K+ ]) w: @. s6 }% @, T: s( I; a
12.2.3 Polymer laid system/聚合物挤压法 125
3 m$ ~- I2 K3 ~+ g6 X& u 12.3 Various nonwovens/各种非织造布 125
& @$ j2 P) M% S! y0 ~3 r& W, M( c 12.3.1 Needle punched nonwovens/针刺法非织造布 125
/ R) U$ H. V& o3 z/ c1 Y, l. n 12.3.2 Bonded web nonwovens/黏合法非织造布 126# W3 ? k9 I1 r0 u& f G" D
12.3.3 Spunlaced nonwovens/射流喷网法非织造布 1273 F6 E! c8 I$ R2 _7 \
12.3.4 Spunbonded nonwovens/纺粘法非织造布 128- o: r( M8 M6 Z
12.3.5 Melt-blown nonwovens/熔喷法非织造布 129
- k% S7 N) @% y- H Questions/思考题 129
* M( n$ m# p6 C' c% I# t \Part Ⅴ Textile Testing/纺织品测试 130
: S$ Z; } E1 u2 p' O$ c: j: A* v Chapter 13 General Test Methods/常规测试方法 130
; l9 N$ }9 f$ V5 f 13.1 General fiber tests/纤维常规测试 1300 F! l' W( q: |5 t: T4 ] X/ K3 ^6 D: Q
13.1.1 Fiber identification/纤维鉴别 1309 ~$ Y' o( K' v9 Y4 Y4 Z9 {' F
13.1.2 Fiber length/纤维长度 134
" j/ @& ]1 N) @2 V0 v' e- x; H 13.1.3 Fiber fineness or linear density/纤维细度或线密度 1353 n' P! Y6 P' i5 B4 L
13.1.4 Cross-sectional shape/截面形状 135
* `0 l. Z0 ]! D" {; Z" `* o 13.1.5 Crimp/卷曲 135
3 x) y, d! Q5 q0 t 13.1.6 Regain/回潮率 136
2 G( U3 a# T4 A8 p 13.1.7 Mechanical properties/机械性能 136
2 J+ P" Y5 Z( K. W( e' h+ I 13.1.8 Chemical characteristics/化学性能 1369 v& ~. q- y+ @. x* \9 ]
13.1.9 Surface characteristics/表面性能 136
; b3 k% |1 D$ ~6 z0 H 13.1.10 Density and specific gravity/密度和相对密度 137; N4 @. P- z0 f4 B3 f
13.2 Special tests for natural fibers/天然纤维的测试 137
6 Z. ]; D7 S: L/ l3 O: B9 x# N 13.2.1 Tests for cotton/棉纤维测试 137 e) V4 t2 @6 y
13.2.2 Tests for wool/毛纤维测试 139# P7 ?0 U: ]# U4 u9 F
13.3 Testing of tensile properties/拉伸性能测试 140
. x2 m" I: H' c% S% f) Y 13.3.1 Description of tensile proprieties/拉伸性能的描述 141
2 a/ v3 o. K' E' M 13.3.2 Fiber and yarn tensile testing/纤维和纱线拉伸性能的测试 146
! E8 M( `, z" a 13.3.3 Fabric tensile testing/织物拉伸性能测试方法 147& g) d( u" c ]/ k
Questions/思考题 1497 A0 u F3 D& V i% a" J4 ]; _
Chapter 14 Fabric Abrasion and Pilling/织物磨损与起球 150
1 Q# d0 Q# S% ^& o 14.1 Types of abrasion/磨损的类型 1505 Q6 Q$ l# Y$ d: O# w! `" q' M! e
14.1.1 Abrasion between fabrics/织物间的磨损 1504 a. K! f% M2 U
14.1.2 Abrasion between fabric and a nontextile surface/织物与非纤维制品表面磨损 1508 d( Q) p2 w5 E( H$ T* A* V& ^% L
14.1.3 Abrasion within fabric/织物内部磨损 151
, i' x2 d1 |$ ~2 l4 W% j( U 14.1.4 Abrasion by foreign materials within the fabric/与织物内部其他材料的磨损 151
) t9 Q+ S, x$ j$ _/ E 14.2 Factors affecting fabric abrasion resistance/影响耐磨性能的因素 1510 b1 v. ^ V. x# X) m8 _% X
14.2.1 Fabric properties/织物性能 151$ F2 ]# h* i4 ?" u; s+ r. r
14.2.2 Other factors/其他因素 153
% V" R' S6 y) C! J/ s 14.3 Abrasion testing/磨损测试 154/ W" }! n" j$ i1 [/ b
14.3.1 Visual comparison with an unabraded specimen/与未磨损样品视觉对比 154& a# m& @" _1 F' |- Q
14.3.2 Number of cycles to produce a hole/产生磨损破洞需要的摩擦圈数 1541 {8 c) b" E& T- s
14.3.3 Change in a physical property/物理性能的变化 154
' q7 J- k8 v( A' p' T1 Y0 B 14.3.4 Microscopic examination/显微镜观测 155
# { \' x! E3 ^/ q 14.4 Aesthetics of abrasion and wear/穿着和磨损对美感的影响 155
5 g6 }$ z! l, o, M7 x 14.4.1 Color changes caused by abrasion/磨损引起的颜色变化 155
' ]. {+ f, B- ^: d( r( R0 G 14.4.2 Pilling/起球 1562 c! d: T# i7 g/ _7 i( ^: y
Questions/思考题 157
2 {$ g4 r% `2 \" \+ ? Chapter 15 Fabric Hand and Drape/织物手感与悬垂 158
0 _0 S: k `. I7 z, U. m 15.1 Fabric hand/织物手感 158
! Q/ {* l1 [/ `6 {! s- ^ 15.2 Fabric drape/织物悬垂 159! }% x6 Y k2 b- U' C9 Q& Z3 P
15.3 Measurement of hand and drape/手感与悬垂的评价 1610 Y5 w b% K$ }5 T$ b9 T! R
15.3.1 Subjective evaluation/主观评定法 161+ O7 C6 d0 N, Z5 f4 P3 t# n; N) J
15.3.2 Quantitative measurement/定量评定法 162
, ~( b& c2 A4 b9 t& y/ [ 15.3.3 Kawabata evaluation system/KES评定法 163
6 o" ^; ^3 n3 m( T0 X: e; U. X Questions/思考题 163
; m# G( o! s; ~0 a% I! A Chapter 16 Fabric Colorfastness/织物染色牢度 1643 _' X* e6 C* b' ]) ?
16.1 Evaluation of color and colorfastness/颜色和染色牢度评定方法 164
1 E: |" [2 w. l, B6 f 16.2 Colorfastness tests/染色牢度测试 164
; W3 T0 V, w- s( F# m4 ^ 16.2.1 Colorfastness to crocking/耐摩擦色牢度 164& s2 s# d0 _- A1 T; q
16.2.2 Colorfastness to laundering and bleaching/耐洗涤和耐漂白色牢 165
! P, G1 a2 T0 P l! |) | 16.2.3 Colorfastness to drycleaning/耐干洗色牢度 166% x) O/ Z- ]" c; S" m( b. V
16.2.4 Colorfastness to perspiration/耐汗渍色牢度 166
: g! L2 h' X9 e0 g( g 16.2.5 Colorfastness to water/耐水浸色牢度 166
- n2 S! e+ o+ ]8 ~/ h9 G 16.2.6 Colorfastness to light/耐光照色牢度 167
* }# k9 A7 F% G 16.2.7 Colorfastness to atmospheric contaminants/耐空气污染色牢度 168# [% n7 A4 f( k& V3 H; W) K
Questions/思考题 168
! |. L: g. u0 W% Q2 h# \ Chapter 17 Fabric Flammability/织物可燃性 1693 r- b6 u3 _5 h- u2 ?! q+ @9 I
17.1 Flammability standards/可燃性标准 169, E- y1 ~/ r; \
17.2 Properties affecting flammability/影响可燃性的因素 169
j/ W, j' x' ~- ?' v* g 17.3 Flammability testing/可燃性测试 171: M5 `! |+ N, Q0 ^9 g! X
17.3.1 Forty-five degree angle test/45°燃烧测试法 171
: l X6 ]- a( A0 u 17.3.2 Vertical flame tests/垂直燃烧测试法 172
. M7 H) X+ q( u; @, _6 k$ N1 E 17.3.3 Carpet testing/地毯测试 172. N; W. W5 z' {0 W$ T
17.3.4 Cigarette tests/卷烟点燃测试 172! X4 V8 F" ?% e9 ^4 J: b
17.3.5 Other standard flammability tests/其他可燃性测试 173
& P: q7 i2 f6 M6 s! v# |) z Questions/思考题 173- ~" K) T9 q8 w
Chapter 18 Comfort of Textiles/纺织品舒适性 174
3 I P1 P$ {. t6 U5 G+ X 18.1 Physical phenomena affecting thermal comfort/影响热舒适性能的物理现象 174
0 Y. L! d% [3 w$ W: M6 ^ 18.1.1 Heat transfer/热传递 174
) O E* M4 `8 b1 }& r 18.1.2 Moisture transfer/湿传递 175
6 q) T% r& k# n 18.1.3 Water resistance/抗水性 175
+ \% x+ | c9 W! \ 18.1.4 Air transfer/透气性 176) P5 d+ r. c s. y/ D( k2 j
18.1.5 Porosity and cover factor/多孔性和覆盖系数 176
2 G1 z2 R* `8 i$ K0 F% U; D5 G& E 18.1.6 Electrostatic propensity/静电 177
8 H% _' {& G' P ~+ W0 L( C" k5 s' h 18.2 Evaluations of textile properties related to comfort/与舒适性相关的纺织品性能评价 177
% ?( H B3 ` S7 z) k$ v1 C8 ] 18.2.1 Heat transfer/热传递 178' M$ d4 Q" l$ r
18.2.2 Moisture properties/湿传递性能 1797 Y& |' N% a- _, w y5 W X
18.2.3 Air permeability/透气性 1790 v7 u8 n- w% s# O& x7 j8 e7 a
18.2.4 Porosity/孔隙率 180: p. }% p4 }* j" x6 G
18.2.5 Electrostatic tests/静电测试 180
2 H" W9 m7 E( d- Q Questions/思考题 180( s: e' B. b) o
Appendix/附录 181
$ w+ M, V5 s7 B V AATCC:AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS/美国纺织化学家与染色家协会 181
4 K- v! n) x0 ~! F" A- ^ ASTM:AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR TESTING AND MATERIALS/美国材料试验学会 184
, v3 |) ?; {5 L- m2 |8 {Vocabulary/词汇表 189
6 f1 w3 m- j$ {! nReferences/参考文献 197
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