
纺织材料学(双语教材),刘妍,熊磊,PDF。普通高等教育“十一五”国家级规划教材(本科),纺织工程专业双语教材,电子目录,14M。2 A9 w! a# I( e l) K) a P; u
4 q+ G8 \7 l# s: L1 g内容提要6 Z. _7 w: ?& t: C% P+ C4 r' T
本书讨论了纤维、纱线与织物(包括机织物、针织物及非织造布)的结构、机械性能、物理性能及使用性能。涉及的纤维势括天然纤维(如棉、毛、麻、丝等)、传统化学纤维及新型化学纤维。本书同时介绍了纤维、纱线和织物的各种标准测试方法(包括国际上常用的ASTM, AATCC及GB等方法),并讨论了与各种测试方法有关的测试原理及对测试结果的影响因素。1 s& H% P. @( W- \
本书可供高等纺织院校纺织、服装相关专业的本科生及研究生作为《纺织材料学》的双语教材或专业英语教材,也可供其他专业师生、纺织贸易专业人员和科研及生产单位的技术人员参考。
9 a. O2 i8 A. G) i) f d6 u& w目录
2 N6 I$ ~- M7 O3 Q. _Part Ⅰ An Introduction to Textiles/纺织入门 18
! r8 {# z+ J. L Chapter 1 Introduction/介绍 18
7 ?% E7 |6 k/ @) [0 I 1.1 ASTM Standard Terminology Relating to Textiles/ASTM纺织标准术语 18
/ A+ d6 b7 ~1 Z) Q* U% }8 ~# L1 e 1.2 Fiber history/纤维历史 26$ W5 w: b1 W0 M2 {8 x
1.2.1 Natural fibers/天然纤维 264 r9 d, O6 `* u* v
1.2.2 Man-made fibers/化学纤维 27( v( O* U4 s2 m0 N3 s& {, J
Questions/思考题 30- B0 ` L$ t' e
Part Ⅱ Textile Fibers/纺织纤维 32
7 j6 o5 H# E1 W3 M9 L* W9 S Chapter 2 Natural Cellulosic Fibers/天然纤维素纤维 32
, r: h: [/ s& y! }5 ^# T. B 2.1 Cotton/棉 33
5 X# c0 Y3 e* f 2.1.1 Nature of cotton/棉花的种类 33
7 j+ y- E0 N2 |! X4 B. _" {: | 2.1.2 Classification/分类 34
- u) B+ {. _& {* W7 E' ~ 2.1.3 Growth and structure of cotton/棉纤维的生长与结构 341 [3 C+ @: Y8 l5 e
2.1.4 Maturity/成熟度 36
1 h7 W( Z/ n3 f2 W: _9 ^6 K9 M/ T' c, ^ 2.1.5 Cotton properties/棉纤维的性能 38, v: p. P: i4 H: y$ Y3 C. F
2.1.6 Cotton classification/棉花分级 39! t+ T) e! J/ m4 I* k$ B" @
2.2 Bast fibers/韧皮纤维 40+ E( J: O1 Z3 P) ^2 L
2.2.1 Flax (linen)/亚麻,亚麻织物 41
* h3 e2 a3 N6 d 2.2.2 Ramie/苎麻 43
. M* }2 P& g6 W- a 2.2.3 Hemp/汉麻 44
9 E, J$ @' e2 T" D1 S: ^) i 2.2.4 Jute/黄麻 440 C6 n# [# w1 j* I+ ]$ Y0 b
Questions/思考题 452 j. i% B$ |& I. W3 U, h* f6 O% X
Chapter 3 Natural Protein Fibers/天然蛋白质纤维 46; O1 ]- P: ~: U2 }7 o
3.1 Wool/绵羊毛 46
$ a/ M7 i2 t' F3 \ N9 i) l4 q; { 3.1.1 Wool production and history/羊毛生产和历史 46# }5 s' V; i5 Z+ S0 i4 K
3.1.2 Wool grading/羊毛分级 472 f8 y; I! h1 k6 k& t( q& g
3.1.3 Wool structure/羊毛结构 47
- O# G+ R% I% K4 d 3.1.4 Wool properties/羊毛性能 48
& f: V* O, y, s2 W+ C( E5 ? 3.2 Specialty animal fibers/特种动物毛 51
# A. w4 M0 y, S9 T5 R 3.3 Silk/丝 52
& P$ \- \' H9 M+ ` Questions/思考题 54
$ U& T8 ?9 V; d4 ~ ^; u: K5 x3 p; Q Chapter 4 Man-made Fibers/化学纤维 558 I$ \& B$ W) E H
4.1 Manufacturing processing of fiber/纤维生产工艺 55- B g7 j* f0 A c! e( v' b
4.1.1 Wet spinning/湿法纺丝 56
% R4 L0 A# J1 d9 N& Z 4.1.2 Dry spinning/干法纺丝 56
: M# C7 P! k9 f' M4 ?( o0 w+ m 4.1.3 Melt spinning/熔体法纺丝 56. p$ [/ n2 c1 S
4.1.4 Gel spinning/凝胶纺丝 57
. A3 G, _& c0 ~* Y; q6 x4 G 4.2 Regenerated fibers/再生纤维 57
l) `4 k: z! ? 4.2.1 Acetate/醋酯纤维 57
; H3 f! J* ?9 w) C Y. \/ \ 4.2.2 Triacetate/三醋酯纤维 59
/ J' ]' r6 O# X+ @6 l: z- r) M8 o- U, K6 b 4.2.3 Viscose fibers/粘胶纤维 59
( N6 \6 o4 v2 Z9 u9 Q5 T 4.3 Synthetic fibers/合成纤维 60% l) x @5 K# p4 ^) `0 u
4.3.1 Acrylic/腈纶 600 Y- R1 o7 R! d/ H# }* ]8 j
4.3.2 Modacrylic/改性腈纶 616 V z- z+ K3 r% d! G" H" j" Q
4.3.3 Nylon/锦纶 615 r9 v- Z! W4 H
4.3.4 Polyester/涤纶 62' X! C0 m6 _! p* _9 |0 m0 L. _
4.3.5 PBI/聚苯并咪唑纤维 63
+ u; x7 T2 Z. U7 G6 h 4.3.6 Vinal/聚乙烯醇纤维 63) b$ S2 V0 ~+ P }
4.3.7 Olefin/聚烯烃纤维 63
' v4 z" B6 A0 [( w0 ?- `# I9 Y7 l2 q 4.3.8 Aramid/芳纶 64
" R! R. u7 ]! w; b# f* [1 n% ~( \, Q 4.3.9 Lycra/莱卡 64
5 i8 M. f& {) v7 {0 K" m! d9 b 4.4 Other man-made fibers/其他化学纤维 66& Z) [0 Z/ ^8 b5 t$ ?
4.4.1 Glass/玻璃纤维 66
4 w9 g# I/ t- X$ j9 N( ? 4.4.2 Metallic/金属纤维 67
! I3 X, k) ]2 X' x Questions/思考题 67! x! ~6 z0 y# _) C
Chapter 5 New Fibers/新型纤维 68
% L( O, x- _ Y/ Q+ c/ ^6 ~ 5.1 Carbon fibers/碳纤维 68. G, u2 y# h. w$ m1 |/ X! h6 b
5.2 Fluorocarbon/氟碳纤维 68
/ S1 }3 e$ t. J; N 5.3 Lyocell fibers(Tencel)/莱塞尔纤维 68
. f$ ]& ]3 d8 \3 Z7 i 5.4 High-wet-modulus fibers/高湿模量纤维 69. z* Y% [) {9 O- n) Z5 }+ C
5.4.1 Modal fibers/莫代尔纤维 69
0 ?$ l- W, g. r6 N9 p4 A8 M4 D$ [8 X: r 5.4.2 Richcel/丽赛纤维 70
" J& p2 P9 }' l, v 5.5 Soybean protein composite fibers/大豆蛋白复合纤维 70; M0 O$ }. U9 E, T2 _ ]
5.6 PLA fiber/聚左旋乳酸纤维 71
/ z! Y$ G: g9 m% D# s$ i 5.7 Heterogenous fibers/复合纤维 712 V& u! L1 Z* I. a" I+ w) B! m
5.7.1 Bicomponent or multicomponent/双组分或多组分 72
6 c* s: F4 E) D! L0 R 5.7.2 Biconstituent or multiconstituent/双成分或多成分 73# H1 @; ?/ p, W* n y1 M
5.7.3 Matrix or matrix-fibril/基质型纤维 73
# |0 Y8 |( y* ]7 N: k 5.8 Differential fibers/差别化纤维 744 u4 w0 b g$ O3 H4 @
5.9 Functional fibers/功能性纤维 74+ b3 W# x! X7 ]' n$ f% i
5.10 High performance fibers/高性能纤维 74
& @$ }& A7 ]4 N' F4 M5 A Questions/思考题 74
, L. q1 K) n0 w) ]+ V" ? Chapter 6 The Property of Absorbing Moisture/吸湿性 75, r# ]+ C; C4 M; p" D2 M
6.1 Orientation and crystallization/取向与结晶 75) H/ y% B3 `* m, }, k
6.2 Moisture sorption/吸湿性 75
2 a0 Q. G4 L- {) {8 X 6.2.1 Regain and moisture content/回潮率与含水率 750 e n- A. I$ N6 c3 a# \) |
6.2.2 Relation between regain and relative humidity/回潮率与相对湿度的关系 75$ g7 z/ l' U/ m+ ~" X0 _; q
6.2.3 Comparison of various materials/不同材料吸湿性的对比 76
5 i: X" M& g% R) c+ ^ v) T 6.2.4 Theories of moisture sorption/吸湿理论 78
; @$ n- F# d1 v+ B: X7 M Questions/思考题 80- S; M8 Q; P, \% O% e
Chapter 7 Other Physical Properties of Textile Fibers/纤维的其他物理性能 81
, h5 l0 `0 ~7 v3 m 7.1 Electronic properties/电学性能 818 f5 p% a$ s+ |. g2 {2 x/ C I
7.1.1 Definitions/定义 81 H* D5 x! a! K! f
7.2 Optical properties/光学性能 82
4 Q; }6 E4 c# h4 b9 ~- H% f 7.3 Thermal properties/热学性能 83
/ T9 w1 A* B6 J! y7 k" k 7.3.1 Thermal parameters/热力学参数 83
" m1 T. |+ b3 a3 G6 q 7.3.2 A comparison of temperature effects/温度效应比较 83
y$ K9 c, [# s; }% d Questions/思考题 83$ r5 T5 [ L/ O( c; h
Part Ⅲ Textile Yarns/纺织纱线 84
: T5 b& i# u6 H Chapter 8 Yarn Processing and Construction/纱线制造与结构 84
; u+ e* L- O H( p' t/ K 8.1 Spun yarns/短纤纱 85, P; `" ?9 l% _3 H8 v+ C4 R0 W
8.2 Filament yarns/长丝纱 85: [. s- h) F1 L1 d$ Q l( p) T
8.3 Methods of yarn processing/纺纱方法 85
3 G/ G; L8 X) W 8.3.1 Ring-spinning/环锭纺 86
4 F; E0 \# [" g$ ?1 ? 8.3.2 New methods of yarn processing/新型纺纱方法 86
: u0 P! m( C2 q+ f% ]8 W 8.4 Single and ply yarns/单纱和股线 89
) M5 k$ V- I0 [8 |# K9 | 8.5 Special types of yarn/特种纱线 90
& Y; b9 B: j( _7 b$ i 8.5.1 Fancy yarns/花式纱 90
& b* a7 b0 [$ P4 l% V2 w 8.5.2 Stretch yarns/弹力纱 911 W4 h" u8 h- l- f w$ o* `* e
8.5.3 Textured yarns 变形纱线 91) N3 R' M; I4 ~. Y8 u1 c
8.6 Blends and mixtures yarns/纱线混纺与混用 924 S. g4 u2 A, m3 n4 O
Questions/思考题 93
/ X$ M3 B% T9 A7 }, M/ m r. ~/ D Chapter 9 Yarn Properties/纱线性能 942 n- q1 ]: R( @9 k% {
9.1 Yarn number/纱线细度 943 y# G! B" u9 N$ J8 s; S& o: R
9.1.1 Denier system/旦数 94
6 |" l3 b P* ?0 Y B/ L; P1 T 9.1.2 Yarn count system/纱线英制支数 94
' |9 J! x o* Y 9.1.3 Tex system/线密度 95
0 r& E2 K8 U7 W, w 9.1.4 Metric numbering system/公制支数 956 b/ s3 d$ A+ B, c" \. C& T, ~
9.1.5 Conversion in different systems/不同系统之间的换算 955 }( |. z$ f! B9 M" S$ o) N
9.2 Ply yarn counts and singles equivalent/股线支数与单纱支数 95
# N3 N+ W1 R% r6 `; L. f 9.3 Yarn twist/纱线捻度 96# Q% Z4 O* g0 m7 N1 P
9.4 Yarn hairiness/纱线毛羽 97; L$ L- {( H' }9 S9 E
9.4.1 Hairiness test method/毛羽测试方法 98
6 H4 c! h3 w; ^$ h; o 9.4.2 Factors affecting hairiness/影响毛羽的因素 98
. A3 B( [' c, S ~; l: f 9.5 Yarn unevenness/纱线不匀 99, l# Z! D( s9 A$ n! ]" j6 {" M3 @1 S* O& E
9.5.1 Test of yarn unevenness/纱线不匀的测试 99
) o8 [ b9 R5 J6 f3 z/ s | 9.5.2 Reasons for yarn unevenness/纱线不匀的原因 100
9 D6 ^/ J9 k7 N" J 9.6 Classification of yarn quality/纱线质量分析 100: q! F' g# w- a7 w4 S1 u9 G: x
Questions/思考题 100
1 N' D9 k/ W# ^/ WPart Ⅳ Textile Fabrics/织物 102# r7 u7 X) c: a4 {
Chapter 10 Woven Fabrics/机织物 102
8 s+ L8 i9 e3 R" Y. N6 G- n) S 10.1 Making woven fabrics/织制机织物 102
$ O' }0 `/ ^% o X! j$ ^4 _ 10.1.1 The loom/织机 102
4 G1 _5 Q* s5 @& T& K. X" K 10.1.2 Loom type/织机类型 1048 K8 _4 R+ C$ L( G9 k4 g
10.1.3 Loom motions/织机运动 104
( ^0 k" t4 K8 W8 m% L a 10.1.4 Electronics in weaving/电子技术在织机中的应用 1050 N* k+ {# }3 b* {0 p
10.1.5 The selvage/布边 105
9 X. e$ p* J4 ~3 o5 u! I; @ 10.2 Warp yarns and filling yarns/经纱和纬纱 105# v3 t+ y) K8 b$ G( c
10.2.1 Identification/鉴别 106
# U( f3 I' H; M0 p! _! V3 n# A# t 10.3 Face and back/正面与反面 106, l5 C0 n4 J( g/ W0 m7 q1 [
10.3.1 Reasons for differenee/存在差异的原因 1073 r2 b. C2 m4 O9 A: k( F. I3 L9 G: V
10.3.2 Caution/应用的要点 107* ?* V4 s2 j3 \! k2 f. U
10.4 Top and bottom/顶端和底端 107. C7 t9 \5 f* S- ~7 e9 K, o+ z
10.4.1 Reasons for difference/存在差异的原因 107$ m/ l: E$ b' y* k6 L. N2 Y
10.5 Weave floats/组织浮线 108
8 G7 h( m7 V s 10.6 Basic weaves/基本组织 108
h6 C$ E3 p% n: b& `6 v6 h3 z 10.6.1 Plain weave/平纹组织 108: d, `' o# ?8 o6 E5 l* {8 T
10.6.2 Twill weave/斜纹组织 109; l+ G1 N2 C( A+ Z! Q% }" D& ~
10.6.3 Satin weave/缎纹组织 111) O) ]% N$ S; M1 ]5 }. A
10.7 Fabric performance and characteristics/织物性能和参数 1129 h! w9 A n( X- j% K
10.7.1 Fabric width/幅宽 112
# [2 C! V" a8 i5 C 10.7.2 Fabric weight/织物重量 112
$ h* {3 [+ n- e: I) z 10.7.3 Fabric thickness/织物厚度 1131 w# V' A5 K# R4 J4 N
10.7.4 Fabric density/织物密度 113! k$ L& Q$ t) A5 u$ G4 W# `% v
10.7.5 Fabric count/织物经纬密度 113& e4 W% k) _/ ?7 c% j; @& O d: ^
10.7.6 Fabric defects/织物疵点 113* }, M1 P V( @; M! Y3 A* x# X
Questions/思考题 113
* G. B7 m) K/ A- U2 x/ Z9 A Chapter 11 Knitted Fabrics/针织物 114' r9 t1 @2 b: q8 e
11.1 Making of knitted fabric/针织物形成 114
4 q8 t, e+ | s: A" ~7 Y 11.1.1 The forming of knitted stitches/线圈的形成 114
" g5 d$ G* w/ z- J! b. o; w 11.1.2 Types of knitted stitches/线圈的种类 1161 B$ `" j. E0 V+ p8 b. [
11.2 Weft knits/纬编针织物 117
# V: J8 e* [* M9 H 11.2.1 Jersey knit fabric/纬平针织物 117) r* p- G7 V1 \
11.2.2 Rib knit fabric/罗纹针织物 118
4 f6 v4 L0 `2 x( j9 D# Q: B 11.2.3 Purl knit fabric/双反面针织物 119; a v5 X, L$ W9 r/ Z6 Z
11.2.4 Double knits/双面针织物 120. e, Y; w( i; o6 H& V" t7 A" [
11.2.5 Full-fashioned knits/全成形针织物 120
3 Y+ p2 o7 u" L 11.3 Warp knits/经编针织物 121; }( j5 k9 t( u3 F& B9 [
11.3.1 Tricot fabrics/特里科经编针织物 121" n a2 ]6 a" A3 D6 w6 `" H
11.3.2 Raschel fabrics/拉舍尔经编针织物 122
! x/ @! }$ y$ Z 11.4 Performance and characteristics/性能和参数 1223 j0 L/ v5 g7 f: d% Z8 |- @
Questions/思考题 123; S! p9 M7 J F8 L5 g" v+ j6 O
Chapter 12 Nonwoven Fabrics/非织造布 1243 ?: ?7 w3 W3 _" I% g8 v+ s' O
12.1 Introduction/导论 124; S* m# v0 Y) |2 g
12.2 Manufacturing methods/生产方法 125
0 Z1 _7 u" g, m" M G: E4 s) l; [0 q) Y 12.2.1 Dry laid system/干法成网 125- x; O% _ @' V4 B$ r" I
12.2.2 Wet laid system/湿法成网 125
( v/ N- S% ` w! U i( D 12.2.3 Polymer laid system/聚合物挤压法 125
& j* {, O* k. \' j% S+ M' `0 ^ 12.3 Various nonwovens/各种非织造布 125
* a: M. v: k# [% }. G 12.3.1 Needle punched nonwovens/针刺法非织造布 1250 l9 ^7 |- W# ^6 e) p' G z3 ^& p" k
12.3.2 Bonded web nonwovens/黏合法非织造布 126
: P9 T6 D" W& h& r 12.3.3 Spunlaced nonwovens/射流喷网法非织造布 127
! _" S% p) h0 G* Y0 f9 C$ Z 12.3.4 Spunbonded nonwovens/纺粘法非织造布 128. u5 c) G* h2 j) w
12.3.5 Melt-blown nonwovens/熔喷法非织造布 129# }# T! ?4 {1 `% Q* B9 ~
Questions/思考题 129, h: m0 t- F; p6 h" a
Part Ⅴ Textile Testing/纺织品测试 130
6 m. S/ ~" w, B, w8 D1 Q Chapter 13 General Test Methods/常规测试方法 130
x. Q( Q2 N& M$ o' h7 O2 h& ^& k, X 13.1 General fiber tests/纤维常规测试 130" S% F3 c" u& x8 p+ H
13.1.1 Fiber identification/纤维鉴别 130% `+ A$ y& p, y( x: s
13.1.2 Fiber length/纤维长度 134% d# J6 s0 _5 f' k; J1 c7 P x
13.1.3 Fiber fineness or linear density/纤维细度或线密度 135" c8 L. j% _( k( K+ G5 F
13.1.4 Cross-sectional shape/截面形状 1359 y4 b J4 J$ x
13.1.5 Crimp/卷曲 135' V& G3 i: S6 ~/ ^9 y- G- u
13.1.6 Regain/回潮率 136
/ b7 o4 u. s+ x& [ 13.1.7 Mechanical properties/机械性能 1368 _1 v6 x- X" k+ ?. _0 k0 B
13.1.8 Chemical characteristics/化学性能 136
& }/ l& b$ S& v* C 13.1.9 Surface characteristics/表面性能 136
4 t8 i) E2 m% E# h+ w* a 13.1.10 Density and specific gravity/密度和相对密度 137! ]7 s4 u, L! y& w$ x% a0 ^
13.2 Special tests for natural fibers/天然纤维的测试 137
6 l% n1 d q1 V" z ^) {& v1 z 13.2.1 Tests for cotton/棉纤维测试 137
- x+ y' V6 D( ?( U% Q; U! A, J 13.2.2 Tests for wool/毛纤维测试 139( g0 x2 ^, z' G: t8 T
13.3 Testing of tensile properties/拉伸性能测试 140
$ f2 v6 a' ]/ y3 ~* E$ C$ H- x. M0 l 13.3.1 Description of tensile proprieties/拉伸性能的描述 141
9 i6 K7 _0 f {8 H 13.3.2 Fiber and yarn tensile testing/纤维和纱线拉伸性能的测试 1463 k4 S: ]1 k* U3 J9 e: ^+ n
13.3.3 Fabric tensile testing/织物拉伸性能测试方法 147
" w0 a7 X" l6 Q5 P) n; _ Questions/思考题 1491 o) z" M9 v' [& W
Chapter 14 Fabric Abrasion and Pilling/织物磨损与起球 150
# V3 P7 c' x% U* s& F/ n! H 14.1 Types of abrasion/磨损的类型 150# |) C9 F, L5 l2 _
14.1.1 Abrasion between fabrics/织物间的磨损 1506 E# e- Y a' v- Q. ?
14.1.2 Abrasion between fabric and a nontextile surface/织物与非纤维制品表面磨损 150
) D# M8 j2 x/ S' q7 k7 b: U 14.1.3 Abrasion within fabric/织物内部磨损 151
& v* R. |; W7 I% F/ S 14.1.4 Abrasion by foreign materials within the fabric/与织物内部其他材料的磨损 151
9 _ T: T: u( g' E2 g 14.2 Factors affecting fabric abrasion resistance/影响耐磨性能的因素 151
1 m* y; P: i* m: N3 m 14.2.1 Fabric properties/织物性能 151' K9 `" h; p& A: ^ C: m" Z; v
14.2.2 Other factors/其他因素 153
8 q. r( \/ d/ P9 a8 W; j7 a 14.3 Abrasion testing/磨损测试 154
0 ]" I0 y; B( X Y M- y l" _8 o 14.3.1 Visual comparison with an unabraded specimen/与未磨损样品视觉对比 154
7 `) R0 E" P n, r8 ^; ~ 14.3.2 Number of cycles to produce a hole/产生磨损破洞需要的摩擦圈数 154' E& M: M$ d, O) u o$ h3 R
14.3.3 Change in a physical property/物理性能的变化 154
' I1 r L1 V4 O9 X# j$ ^6 w 14.3.4 Microscopic examination/显微镜观测 155! } S3 Q! ^% t( Q6 N4 h7 T
14.4 Aesthetics of abrasion and wear/穿着和磨损对美感的影响 1551 E# ?3 \, X- L; W
14.4.1 Color changes caused by abrasion/磨损引起的颜色变化 155, d, |+ c( ^0 {- p: t+ D# B
14.4.2 Pilling/起球 1560 P' A2 k9 _, d( }4 _8 r" \
Questions/思考题 157
4 Q$ g D9 b/ _2 J; [ Chapter 15 Fabric Hand and Drape/织物手感与悬垂 158
& P( s H/ O/ c: X' K 15.1 Fabric hand/织物手感 158
7 K% ?7 Y' _. A/ q 15.2 Fabric drape/织物悬垂 159
* W1 B4 }- n1 ]' j 15.3 Measurement of hand and drape/手感与悬垂的评价 161
* }/ y( F: | t, r3 m* m4 q 15.3.1 Subjective evaluation/主观评定法 161
( W5 n2 p {, n 15.3.2 Quantitative measurement/定量评定法 1620 s6 D! B( f/ ?
15.3.3 Kawabata evaluation system/KES评定法 163. u D4 [: l" u# H
Questions/思考题 1634 i4 ^5 T; q5 }# S
Chapter 16 Fabric Colorfastness/织物染色牢度 164: E+ W! a, t! K- a- a) X
16.1 Evaluation of color and colorfastness/颜色和染色牢度评定方法 164" i& e, ]) p! B( X; ~
16.2 Colorfastness tests/染色牢度测试 164; Z5 o& l) ]! y$ ?$ C
16.2.1 Colorfastness to crocking/耐摩擦色牢度 164
- O1 |$ B2 P" v: o 16.2.2 Colorfastness to laundering and bleaching/耐洗涤和耐漂白色牢 165
+ A# g- J! D) a 16.2.3 Colorfastness to drycleaning/耐干洗色牢度 166
5 j3 F3 v8 N& f3 T [& U0 f' r0 R 16.2.4 Colorfastness to perspiration/耐汗渍色牢度 166; j- N2 g( t1 Z" [
16.2.5 Colorfastness to water/耐水浸色牢度 166
+ j5 @; x2 N5 v" h/ { 16.2.6 Colorfastness to light/耐光照色牢度 167
: e2 Z4 r' l: D0 m! u7 ^ 16.2.7 Colorfastness to atmospheric contaminants/耐空气污染色牢度 168
* p/ p8 W( _3 _ |1 L Questions/思考题 168
3 E8 Z2 \5 \8 W& I; l* j1 c Chapter 17 Fabric Flammability/织物可燃性 169
* T w8 \7 Z- H: }4 w# i1 C 17.1 Flammability standards/可燃性标准 169
+ }# y6 R% Z" x2 H; F6 G 17.2 Properties affecting flammability/影响可燃性的因素 169
+ J( q; O$ r; \! \ 17.3 Flammability testing/可燃性测试 171
4 |$ E+ D8 v3 x+ k% V 17.3.1 Forty-five degree angle test/45°燃烧测试法 171
5 V" i; t7 \3 J- _' G 17.3.2 Vertical flame tests/垂直燃烧测试法 172; |( d1 B+ T7 `6 T; u
17.3.3 Carpet testing/地毯测试 172
+ S0 I) i$ O I) @2 b 17.3.4 Cigarette tests/卷烟点燃测试 172
/ m- l' S) b+ H 17.3.5 Other standard flammability tests/其他可燃性测试 1731 ^0 P7 u5 J8 V+ Y8 A& l
Questions/思考题 173
; C6 S3 `7 t( M/ Z& C5 R6 u: Z1 I Chapter 18 Comfort of Textiles/纺织品舒适性 174- f' K. a S0 }* I2 j( T( V
18.1 Physical phenomena affecting thermal comfort/影响热舒适性能的物理现象 1742 C& J9 A: L$ E
18.1.1 Heat transfer/热传递 174! W' V U& N3 h3 ^% W+ h% g
18.1.2 Moisture transfer/湿传递 175! i; f6 X: C7 W2 X; R( @' T3 }1 m* ]! j
18.1.3 Water resistance/抗水性 175
( b+ P. Z! n' G- s5 f6 F) @ 18.1.4 Air transfer/透气性 176
3 `3 S7 g7 C1 K: L) ^ O @ 18.1.5 Porosity and cover factor/多孔性和覆盖系数 176( ^2 I4 j% \: K8 m
18.1.6 Electrostatic propensity/静电 1771 e' S+ C* S0 \% R: M
18.2 Evaluations of textile properties related to comfort/与舒适性相关的纺织品性能评价 177! w+ v, T; z/ G# m' F" h0 _5 f
18.2.1 Heat transfer/热传递 178
! Z" P- c0 L0 I, p6 F0 P 18.2.2 Moisture properties/湿传递性能 179
0 h$ J$ \' Y/ ^3 @/ | 18.2.3 Air permeability/透气性 179( a- X1 B$ W. ~- p1 ~2 q/ V
18.2.4 Porosity/孔隙率 180" q( P, N9 b3 k3 g
18.2.5 Electrostatic tests/静电测试 1800 y F& d0 l7 p" c
Questions/思考题 180* ]. w$ u/ U1 X5 k
Appendix/附录 181
7 \7 @% Z7 S( N) W D; j AATCC:AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS/美国纺织化学家与染色家协会 1814 E6 b' K5 ?4 t9 o+ R" `! U
ASTM:AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR TESTING AND MATERIALS/美国材料试验学会 184
% m5 O5 \9 U+ B' ~% j1 z3 @: [Vocabulary/词汇表 189
5 H+ e: `6 f1 }) j+ s( S9 `References/参考文献 197' u+ j. v% o! M/ A8 O3 N/ O; l
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