
纺织材料学(双语教材),刘妍,熊磊,PDF。普通高等教育“十一五”国家级规划教材(本科),纺织工程专业双语教材,电子目录,14M。9 H/ q0 i* [* \5 k7 E3 E
0 e7 [6 h0 N* @3 p ?. T内容提要
2 I' I. ]+ n; K本书讨论了纤维、纱线与织物(包括机织物、针织物及非织造布)的结构、机械性能、物理性能及使用性能。涉及的纤维势括天然纤维(如棉、毛、麻、丝等)、传统化学纤维及新型化学纤维。本书同时介绍了纤维、纱线和织物的各种标准测试方法(包括国际上常用的ASTM, AATCC及GB等方法),并讨论了与各种测试方法有关的测试原理及对测试结果的影响因素。- i5 n ]: ?& i z7 Y# c; p) V
本书可供高等纺织院校纺织、服装相关专业的本科生及研究生作为《纺织材料学》的双语教材或专业英语教材,也可供其他专业师生、纺织贸易专业人员和科研及生产单位的技术人员参考。
1 W0 Y( L; s- p/ t! f目录) W+ w3 m9 A5 r6 X5 P
Part Ⅰ An Introduction to Textiles/纺织入门 18* v) b: d6 i6 y# k# g
Chapter 1 Introduction/介绍 18! ]3 q0 }& _; x6 L! ~+ j/ s6 X
1.1 ASTM Standard Terminology Relating to Textiles/ASTM纺织标准术语 18$ p m: h# I' ?
1.2 Fiber history/纤维历史 26; G* ]/ V. r+ {
1.2.1 Natural fibers/天然纤维 26
% j( o5 R" @: y; w8 s3 s 1.2.2 Man-made fibers/化学纤维 272 @' A9 i( ?: k
Questions/思考题 30
Z) C2 q8 @$ C0 b" j3 w' k6 SPart Ⅱ Textile Fibers/纺织纤维 32& }/ l4 m+ T5 P: L
Chapter 2 Natural Cellulosic Fibers/天然纤维素纤维 32( m- c( b2 F$ B4 A9 U3 \
2.1 Cotton/棉 33
- w: w4 d' C; z 2.1.1 Nature of cotton/棉花的种类 334 v5 p' f% X- S r- f" T
2.1.2 Classification/分类 342 Q4 o U. G) }9 X5 @# L) Y5 f6 a
2.1.3 Growth and structure of cotton/棉纤维的生长与结构 34
l5 {) B; D9 i! ^" o) i3 o 2.1.4 Maturity/成熟度 36
. B, S" C2 Q& S& P; {: R 2.1.5 Cotton properties/棉纤维的性能 38
! n9 B% j8 }! E 2.1.6 Cotton classification/棉花分级 39
% i. ?# a3 L* b3 \; Y8 E- R, [) s 2.2 Bast fibers/韧皮纤维 40
- i% p A: |2 H. _1 J 2.2.1 Flax (linen)/亚麻,亚麻织物 41, t) Z) { v0 O2 z/ L- U5 T
2.2.2 Ramie/苎麻 43* J, H" D# m- {" t
2.2.3 Hemp/汉麻 44
{$ T+ T1 l6 {. ?# r% ?0 X' D 2.2.4 Jute/黄麻 44
5 }9 q+ X6 B9 {/ P. x2 _ Questions/思考题 45
+ l' z" m5 _' d, M( ? a Chapter 3 Natural Protein Fibers/天然蛋白质纤维 46* N! X8 \+ U( ~" Q# h* f' h' g
3.1 Wool/绵羊毛 46
/ x2 W2 U8 z. [' f 3.1.1 Wool production and history/羊毛生产和历史 464 Q; f5 H7 N" O9 C/ `$ t7 w
3.1.2 Wool grading/羊毛分级 47
! L, D/ i) H2 N: Q 3.1.3 Wool structure/羊毛结构 47- k# q4 `0 j, t$ U9 A- r$ f
3.1.4 Wool properties/羊毛性能 487 L7 q1 `! F& @- f8 g% D8 P
3.2 Specialty animal fibers/特种动物毛 51# B6 X; \& B4 f4 s4 H
3.3 Silk/丝 529 J9 T' }( m; B) b
Questions/思考题 54) @! n/ A9 L+ y" G- l, k8 q# V& R
Chapter 4 Man-made Fibers/化学纤维 55+ l3 D7 e! B) O& ` D! B
4.1 Manufacturing processing of fiber/纤维生产工艺 55
8 I! d. x! [* O5 |' K 4.1.1 Wet spinning/湿法纺丝 56
" {6 n! t s( w, ]/ D 4.1.2 Dry spinning/干法纺丝 56. r/ E+ Y$ D0 x2 v
4.1.3 Melt spinning/熔体法纺丝 567 O* p* s3 ~# _/ _6 P8 G+ |/ B3 t
4.1.4 Gel spinning/凝胶纺丝 57# P0 i' G$ c/ d( d$ e. v
4.2 Regenerated fibers/再生纤维 57
( I* t6 f0 ^% j: D 4.2.1 Acetate/醋酯纤维 57/ `, S& g' ~1 k# x
4.2.2 Triacetate/三醋酯纤维 591 E" z2 p2 N2 S
4.2.3 Viscose fibers/粘胶纤维 59
2 v/ h: B% `) C# J 4.3 Synthetic fibers/合成纤维 608 \9 |* ]/ Y: D
4.3.1 Acrylic/腈纶 603 K1 }- o9 j2 b/ p% N5 V$ ]
4.3.2 Modacrylic/改性腈纶 619 u7 t2 g) T) Q6 W: {& |: A
4.3.3 Nylon/锦纶 61
7 C% v* V1 m3 }+ d$ G# q: c, U 4.3.4 Polyester/涤纶 62, d6 m$ @% b" }6 t9 j) f N" z. {
4.3.5 PBI/聚苯并咪唑纤维 63$ ?. |8 z7 n* U2 C( E
4.3.6 Vinal/聚乙烯醇纤维 635 m$ {/ y1 C8 v- Y
4.3.7 Olefin/聚烯烃纤维 63. N$ E. S& k9 V! K' [
4.3.8 Aramid/芳纶 64+ e# |' [% b3 [# j. b* B( w8 a
4.3.9 Lycra/莱卡 64- K1 W1 k9 p& ~. [% p5 u I% E' Q
4.4 Other man-made fibers/其他化学纤维 66% ?4 N6 o3 M8 [ U+ y
4.4.1 Glass/玻璃纤维 66, r# I% `& K* f- M& V- N5 A( k) h
4.4.2 Metallic/金属纤维 678 j4 x) E. x* |# a2 Q
Questions/思考题 67
" K7 E" {0 g+ f, o( C Chapter 5 New Fibers/新型纤维 68
+ T8 X# l" w& a4 [# r 5.1 Carbon fibers/碳纤维 68
+ U( V/ y' `5 w 5.2 Fluorocarbon/氟碳纤维 680 C: M- Q8 {+ k K! P8 W' h( C
5.3 Lyocell fibers(Tencel)/莱塞尔纤维 68
1 \2 v8 f9 e. e; v" L 5.4 High-wet-modulus fibers/高湿模量纤维 690 _' e4 Y( i8 F& u* i) P- x' R
5.4.1 Modal fibers/莫代尔纤维 69
3 B( }) u/ `3 O5 L; u0 a7 H 5.4.2 Richcel/丽赛纤维 70
0 ~$ n. y3 L7 `* a m2 [; o 5.5 Soybean protein composite fibers/大豆蛋白复合纤维 70# U; }% Q! c: i, s. W
5.6 PLA fiber/聚左旋乳酸纤维 71
' w* ?4 ]4 { A) t1 f$ _, D% u 5.7 Heterogenous fibers/复合纤维 71
7 m. h$ x9 v& _6 b& f8 f 5.7.1 Bicomponent or multicomponent/双组分或多组分 72
/ Z- Y( R6 U/ O' c 5.7.2 Biconstituent or multiconstituent/双成分或多成分 73; A* m$ o$ q" }' P+ K
5.7.3 Matrix or matrix-fibril/基质型纤维 73
; r; a$ e# Q' D ]4 f; O9 | 5.8 Differential fibers/差别化纤维 74. x% b8 o* B: V! G$ v# t
5.9 Functional fibers/功能性纤维 74# X8 I2 {7 t( w1 d5 |
5.10 High performance fibers/高性能纤维 74* K! P, Q9 Z% P$ U
Questions/思考题 74 ]: b$ r/ k( A& H/ Q* j
Chapter 6 The Property of Absorbing Moisture/吸湿性 75
: c# N$ b0 F& ~* m: d3 s 6.1 Orientation and crystallization/取向与结晶 75
7 U0 y W4 d8 I; { 6.2 Moisture sorption/吸湿性 755 H9 M& p& s, n
6.2.1 Regain and moisture content/回潮率与含水率 752 x+ ]" V% ?9 M/ o. V1 N. I+ j: f
6.2.2 Relation between regain and relative humidity/回潮率与相对湿度的关系 75: F8 ^% j; l7 j
6.2.3 Comparison of various materials/不同材料吸湿性的对比 76
0 m6 A0 F7 A+ D7 Y" w4 p& k0 [ 6.2.4 Theories of moisture sorption/吸湿理论 78- n" m: {/ g, i% R% v! r: \
Questions/思考题 80
5 ^/ s/ t# G2 ^& U3 }! ~, S Chapter 7 Other Physical Properties of Textile Fibers/纤维的其他物理性能 81* O7 }8 ^9 y8 D# o+ |
7.1 Electronic properties/电学性能 81
( D) A o* I6 G4 B' r% f) k2 v6 U 7.1.1 Definitions/定义 81
3 J8 f1 i# m* l; s$ _* L 7.2 Optical properties/光学性能 82# Q( W' y( j$ l
7.3 Thermal properties/热学性能 83
/ Q" P7 N0 X7 F* _2 ] 7.3.1 Thermal parameters/热力学参数 83
- F! Y' o* j m# T; `) |! g 7.3.2 A comparison of temperature effects/温度效应比较 83
' a6 B# F# c( f! Y" |- {( ~ Questions/思考题 83
/ l' G3 y) t n! ?- hPart Ⅲ Textile Yarns/纺织纱线 848 G8 D- p6 S7 I4 Q, c" @0 I% Q
Chapter 8 Yarn Processing and Construction/纱线制造与结构 84
: `) R- d, R; I9 R6 h 8.1 Spun yarns/短纤纱 855 @% M2 [1 S8 J/ A h1 E* r
8.2 Filament yarns/长丝纱 85( l6 M# P; s( M) W& J8 w3 f
8.3 Methods of yarn processing/纺纱方法 85$ C5 ], P- o! X( O( a2 z
8.3.1 Ring-spinning/环锭纺 865 A& ?2 D) z' h/ E8 V p
8.3.2 New methods of yarn processing/新型纺纱方法 86
; L9 y5 U7 N0 M) z2 A( @- j8 Y, b 8.4 Single and ply yarns/单纱和股线 898 n6 E5 {$ d1 G& Z
8.5 Special types of yarn/特种纱线 903 c8 n; Z$ ?7 B
8.5.1 Fancy yarns/花式纱 900 R4 p. h2 K# h2 b" w' L
8.5.2 Stretch yarns/弹力纱 918 W; |# ]1 J; ?8 t
8.5.3 Textured yarns 变形纱线 910 H9 r6 l" J; h
8.6 Blends and mixtures yarns/纱线混纺与混用 928 D5 ]- {& V3 S
Questions/思考题 93! E; R% m |9 E- |6 [8 A
Chapter 9 Yarn Properties/纱线性能 94# e+ o( N+ @0 v/ U( [( h% m* H
9.1 Yarn number/纱线细度 94! s+ i, F+ y1 {+ p# T; G3 z' X4 ?8 s+ o b
9.1.1 Denier system/旦数 947 p( X/ [+ r" `
9.1.2 Yarn count system/纱线英制支数 94/ U+ v1 v+ C0 a- V$ u& _6 F* X
9.1.3 Tex system/线密度 95% H; m1 d) Z& A* I
9.1.4 Metric numbering system/公制支数 95
, o. S8 O. ?- G. R& k 9.1.5 Conversion in different systems/不同系统之间的换算 95
" @. m0 b- T2 l/ M B5 ^7 | 9.2 Ply yarn counts and singles equivalent/股线支数与单纱支数 95) f; G; R! h; o) h8 V
9.3 Yarn twist/纱线捻度 96" N: P9 h, n p" A) s5 O, Y
9.4 Yarn hairiness/纱线毛羽 97! z7 w% [+ V+ I1 f5 j2 l k
9.4.1 Hairiness test method/毛羽测试方法 98
1 C+ K! L5 A5 \/ }. R- @: J 9.4.2 Factors affecting hairiness/影响毛羽的因素 98
% w c4 W6 G- v3 L 9.5 Yarn unevenness/纱线不匀 99
7 i, _* R* e2 i0 R% _" N9 r 9.5.1 Test of yarn unevenness/纱线不匀的测试 99
) G, D! H" A' x9 c" q# b9 E h* W% o 9.5.2 Reasons for yarn unevenness/纱线不匀的原因 100) C$ u z* U9 X# |+ ?: ]$ q [
9.6 Classification of yarn quality/纱线质量分析 1002 p) {. a' ~; V( g6 t4 i; X
Questions/思考题 100
$ `$ c0 p b5 g0 z( }9 K( \$ H ^+ mPart Ⅳ Textile Fabrics/织物 1027 v. t- ]7 a6 a
Chapter 10 Woven Fabrics/机织物 102
% X M' P& W+ |9 [ 10.1 Making woven fabrics/织制机织物 102
, i9 u" z) w( N1 j& b+ X! ?" | 10.1.1 The loom/织机 102( A* k" A5 ^/ O! M2 v+ e8 p8 D
10.1.2 Loom type/织机类型 104
9 S$ J9 z& f- V 10.1.3 Loom motions/织机运动 104
* B& z5 \6 V- [: U$ C 10.1.4 Electronics in weaving/电子技术在织机中的应用 105
9 J8 X ]8 s) {+ u0 Q2 @0 t 10.1.5 The selvage/布边 1059 h: P; P* D6 [! h" k& g" i
10.2 Warp yarns and filling yarns/经纱和纬纱 105: }8 S% q6 V5 K% R! ~- c+ V4 O
10.2.1 Identification/鉴别 1064 g/ Q; P4 q: j7 r
10.3 Face and back/正面与反面 106; ~6 W2 i; D; V$ l% @2 H
10.3.1 Reasons for differenee/存在差异的原因 107
* z1 h+ m4 i N3 W4 T 10.3.2 Caution/应用的要点 107. i8 {- h3 g2 U5 s ~
10.4 Top and bottom/顶端和底端 107
9 x% ^. h& ~' h/ J( f3 B1 j 10.4.1 Reasons for difference/存在差异的原因 107; k6 ?" q; V$ D2 X% t
10.5 Weave floats/组织浮线 108
7 Y! o8 p+ O k2 O0 h 10.6 Basic weaves/基本组织 108
7 Q7 R4 p6 ~- N3 q0 \1 I( @% ? 10.6.1 Plain weave/平纹组织 108
9 \- K" r+ a2 Q% ~8 r9 X- T 10.6.2 Twill weave/斜纹组织 109( |; j W1 N' R# H' u* z
10.6.3 Satin weave/缎纹组织 111
0 Z3 a! K- J" k s" A 10.7 Fabric performance and characteristics/织物性能和参数 112% [% F8 o* z5 ~6 Q( l1 p# h
10.7.1 Fabric width/幅宽 112
0 s& \6 B: z4 Z 10.7.2 Fabric weight/织物重量 112' S1 i) l4 Y( [& H7 ?( H
10.7.3 Fabric thickness/织物厚度 113
- w. {" u! f6 ^0 Y) t" m 10.7.4 Fabric density/织物密度 1136 L5 }* C2 r: _% Q. U1 L: \
10.7.5 Fabric count/织物经纬密度 113
( m& U, a9 g: ~ h 10.7.6 Fabric defects/织物疵点 113
2 c0 I2 f" r6 K' ^1 x/ N6 [* r3 m' i: v Questions/思考题 113
) |: k, }' ?8 p; ?4 ] F* Z j Chapter 11 Knitted Fabrics/针织物 114
3 c2 p Y! [' R: R. M 11.1 Making of knitted fabric/针织物形成 1143 r% Y" N4 p! c- ]
11.1.1 The forming of knitted stitches/线圈的形成 114
4 f- x& t. n6 R3 R% s/ o# L 11.1.2 Types of knitted stitches/线圈的种类 116; U e. J# F$ g! ~, R9 c4 d9 G
11.2 Weft knits/纬编针织物 117
2 j+ D& N! ]; Z5 t/ F: V; O4 y1 ~, E 11.2.1 Jersey knit fabric/纬平针织物 117
6 G/ m! [. I' j+ \* X' H& D 11.2.2 Rib knit fabric/罗纹针织物 118. l: V: R8 Z" v3 L) }
11.2.3 Purl knit fabric/双反面针织物 119
. h4 v8 F* J: [- y 11.2.4 Double knits/双面针织物 120
! k7 y- h" `) l# v 11.2.5 Full-fashioned knits/全成形针织物 120
* U' T0 J/ T) l3 q 11.3 Warp knits/经编针织物 121, o7 i7 n/ i! ~+ k" ]" T1 h+ A
11.3.1 Tricot fabrics/特里科经编针织物 121
6 a: ^8 U& V% I5 }+ Q7 C 11.3.2 Raschel fabrics/拉舍尔经编针织物 122+ X! \( L- b5 u3 N: q
11.4 Performance and characteristics/性能和参数 122; U! X0 D( N' a, u1 P$ k, t
Questions/思考题 1234 @% {. R' U7 z. t; B9 _
Chapter 12 Nonwoven Fabrics/非织造布 124/ P5 x8 }8 L5 F% ^# U2 r
12.1 Introduction/导论 124
+ O+ c* x; T; r$ ]9 d; F 12.2 Manufacturing methods/生产方法 125' ^3 g6 S4 D- u& O9 j# B' x
12.2.1 Dry laid system/干法成网 125
# d/ |/ s, C" G* i% q 12.2.2 Wet laid system/湿法成网 125
6 g! y( Z* ]8 \+ f 12.2.3 Polymer laid system/聚合物挤压法 125
2 f; o& Y( Q; V& I* r3 x$ J 12.3 Various nonwovens/各种非织造布 125
7 {6 q+ I0 x0 M& I9 y) V | 12.3.1 Needle punched nonwovens/针刺法非织造布 125
$ p+ [ S& y! D7 U" V! N 12.3.2 Bonded web nonwovens/黏合法非织造布 126
1 I7 G$ B4 x: K. S. `1 q5 R 12.3.3 Spunlaced nonwovens/射流喷网法非织造布 127
8 ]; ~! {/ O. |5 D 12.3.4 Spunbonded nonwovens/纺粘法非织造布 128( n a) T0 p" m
12.3.5 Melt-blown nonwovens/熔喷法非织造布 129& {6 Q/ i' p1 c
Questions/思考题 129
+ e, K9 f7 `7 V' OPart Ⅴ Textile Testing/纺织品测试 130
* F3 i3 f! G4 m Chapter 13 General Test Methods/常规测试方法 1301 N0 ?* ?- Z, r
13.1 General fiber tests/纤维常规测试 130 [7 G: ?3 r# ?( H& r" y6 O! D+ B. U7 |
13.1.1 Fiber identification/纤维鉴别 130
" x+ A% A" R8 a& j 13.1.2 Fiber length/纤维长度 134
8 p J/ |7 o! _: w2 m) | 13.1.3 Fiber fineness or linear density/纤维细度或线密度 135
) s! O8 U. v+ ] 13.1.4 Cross-sectional shape/截面形状 135* G3 o b1 v: N
13.1.5 Crimp/卷曲 135
. H. X# q5 ~# ~! g% k: Y) R# N- S 13.1.6 Regain/回潮率 1365 S0 l0 C4 z' E0 k1 z
13.1.7 Mechanical properties/机械性能 136
( p2 t X* s( u5 c1 T 13.1.8 Chemical characteristics/化学性能 136( K7 P7 ^1 u2 T) ]" c
13.1.9 Surface characteristics/表面性能 136, R; J2 J" V1 V/ I5 `4 V8 ~- i7 v
13.1.10 Density and specific gravity/密度和相对密度 1372 V, X7 T- }) K
13.2 Special tests for natural fibers/天然纤维的测试 1377 b4 L+ H: o7 f. s9 t% h
13.2.1 Tests for cotton/棉纤维测试 1374 f$ |" W" J' ~5 |
13.2.2 Tests for wool/毛纤维测试 139
( t( g0 K" d, {- I- w1 ~ 13.3 Testing of tensile properties/拉伸性能测试 140
; ?' K6 r2 f2 U$ {3 S1 N 13.3.1 Description of tensile proprieties/拉伸性能的描述 141
" }1 k4 V+ x2 c9 C0 o$ C6 g 13.3.2 Fiber and yarn tensile testing/纤维和纱线拉伸性能的测试 146$ p% E2 G5 X# W+ l+ V4 _# ^
13.3.3 Fabric tensile testing/织物拉伸性能测试方法 147
6 U. F5 F0 i a' T1 ^6 } Questions/思考题 149
& H. F% g5 F5 y Chapter 14 Fabric Abrasion and Pilling/织物磨损与起球 150$ ~( M( e( T% j1 f6 G/ L
14.1 Types of abrasion/磨损的类型 1502 r5 a9 D; O$ C9 U6 N! F
14.1.1 Abrasion between fabrics/织物间的磨损 150 T$ y% z) a" g3 y! \: p
14.1.2 Abrasion between fabric and a nontextile surface/织物与非纤维制品表面磨损 150
' \# w) ^/ O. ^# f$ Y* n+ K: ? 14.1.3 Abrasion within fabric/织物内部磨损 151
8 h* r: j$ |$ L; P1 @# r; ?- _ 14.1.4 Abrasion by foreign materials within the fabric/与织物内部其他材料的磨损 151
6 a1 y; ?0 X: d& q) m0 d; Q, r% n$ S 14.2 Factors affecting fabric abrasion resistance/影响耐磨性能的因素 151; h/ _; W5 w- f2 p9 [5 d
14.2.1 Fabric properties/织物性能 151: k+ j- k* s! y8 Z
14.2.2 Other factors/其他因素 153
& B% t# y+ j; A! ~7 s. z 14.3 Abrasion testing/磨损测试 154
" }! D! f9 x# q4 x; H, U2 Q 14.3.1 Visual comparison with an unabraded specimen/与未磨损样品视觉对比 154
m" b1 d3 ^0 v3 I 14.3.2 Number of cycles to produce a hole/产生磨损破洞需要的摩擦圈数 154! n& ~( q6 z5 o3 D2 I
14.3.3 Change in a physical property/物理性能的变化 1541 X& E/ u N9 r" w0 f' {
14.3.4 Microscopic examination/显微镜观测 1557 h' `, ?" r4 F2 E5 X5 ]
14.4 Aesthetics of abrasion and wear/穿着和磨损对美感的影响 155
" M4 I# o$ K3 H 14.4.1 Color changes caused by abrasion/磨损引起的颜色变化 155: [9 C2 o5 _: B! o
14.4.2 Pilling/起球 156
( Y: | ?1 O9 k/ ^* Q2 D6 p# L+ d8 E Questions/思考题 157- W, j' @. {- M+ @) L+ q7 L
Chapter 15 Fabric Hand and Drape/织物手感与悬垂 158
, ?& \* e: Z4 i% i" } 15.1 Fabric hand/织物手感 1589 p3 B) T5 |1 a* h! N
15.2 Fabric drape/织物悬垂 159, b( H% J; O% Q
15.3 Measurement of hand and drape/手感与悬垂的评价 161
% S" J0 |) t# H, y O 15.3.1 Subjective evaluation/主观评定法 161- v# P2 O; R5 J; S: a& E @& I5 [% d
15.3.2 Quantitative measurement/定量评定法 1624 T0 b f) l; _. k! `2 s
15.3.3 Kawabata evaluation system/KES评定法 163% @, ^5 J$ u6 o8 ~4 b8 ^
Questions/思考题 163) p/ U' A9 e2 }* g4 i, S
Chapter 16 Fabric Colorfastness/织物染色牢度 164
" j8 t3 x) W! _; t2 g @ 16.1 Evaluation of color and colorfastness/颜色和染色牢度评定方法 1642 X% D. b8 [1 g: _& `2 w2 q
16.2 Colorfastness tests/染色牢度测试 164
( I" ]' _- A9 D/ z$ h* F1 l$ u) H 16.2.1 Colorfastness to crocking/耐摩擦色牢度 164
$ u& u% z1 m' a, ~: p% U 16.2.2 Colorfastness to laundering and bleaching/耐洗涤和耐漂白色牢 1655 U" h5 M$ N7 a3 k3 M# e: D
16.2.3 Colorfastness to drycleaning/耐干洗色牢度 166
. m/ }2 ? \* z' Y+ O 16.2.4 Colorfastness to perspiration/耐汗渍色牢度 1668 b3 |3 C" k+ ^+ ]& \; o4 d1 G
16.2.5 Colorfastness to water/耐水浸色牢度 1661 e1 U+ l: b& p$ H
16.2.6 Colorfastness to light/耐光照色牢度 167, i$ W3 M9 A3 w M/ X
16.2.7 Colorfastness to atmospheric contaminants/耐空气污染色牢度 1686 r# H/ @7 \: D9 j3 c3 G6 \+ Z
Questions/思考题 168% ~2 X0 q O) S+ y' x+ G
Chapter 17 Fabric Flammability/织物可燃性 169( F7 m% \/ l0 O/ b
17.1 Flammability standards/可燃性标准 169! ^: G$ K* J* M, y$ L' Y4 }, Z
17.2 Properties affecting flammability/影响可燃性的因素 169
+ u" ~+ {' z% r' D5 v# ]: x 17.3 Flammability testing/可燃性测试 1715 p, V" \/ r& K w, h
17.3.1 Forty-five degree angle test/45°燃烧测试法 171
5 g( G. b9 B" ^9 H3 ]; D7 }1 n 17.3.2 Vertical flame tests/垂直燃烧测试法 1726 Y( b. D& H6 f* G; H( h0 o3 k
17.3.3 Carpet testing/地毯测试 172
! Y" m: ^0 r r7 h 17.3.4 Cigarette tests/卷烟点燃测试 172
% j: S5 [ C5 t8 b$ {$ [ 17.3.5 Other standard flammability tests/其他可燃性测试 173
4 V, K' n$ s* y$ R Questions/思考题 173# E* i+ J* \7 K$ s1 H! O
Chapter 18 Comfort of Textiles/纺织品舒适性 174$ X: {2 e3 K, T/ H: k% t
18.1 Physical phenomena affecting thermal comfort/影响热舒适性能的物理现象 174
% c3 s, ^% |% x Q% @, ~: J* ] 18.1.1 Heat transfer/热传递 174
8 Q9 Z" m8 I# j- ]# X 18.1.2 Moisture transfer/湿传递 1756 h, c+ N1 G1 G$ U
18.1.3 Water resistance/抗水性 175
* R4 W( @- N! Y 18.1.4 Air transfer/透气性 176
7 a; L4 P( ]% N$ ~% Y/ c 18.1.5 Porosity and cover factor/多孔性和覆盖系数 176
3 @. s$ [) x2 I* N! g2 @. N5 D 18.1.6 Electrostatic propensity/静电 177, p! O% f1 ?7 [ e$ K
18.2 Evaluations of textile properties related to comfort/与舒适性相关的纺织品性能评价 177
5 w, p- x- f" B; `/ d, M, L U 18.2.1 Heat transfer/热传递 178) f. z* }4 A0 B* N! K
18.2.2 Moisture properties/湿传递性能 179/ Y/ n- f- h( f/ w: q- T/ F
18.2.3 Air permeability/透气性 179
' y1 l$ H3 I* A0 G0 C 18.2.4 Porosity/孔隙率 1803 @& L2 j2 r1 o* ~ W$ C" \8 H! T
18.2.5 Electrostatic tests/静电测试 1807 [9 M1 F( S) W( k6 G
Questions/思考题 180
% X$ | E' L2 a/ ^8 t' _( p( \Appendix/附录 181
8 L- E+ O: I0 O4 l AATCC:AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS/美国纺织化学家与染色家协会 181
. h. w; h: k8 l |; ~% Q1 ^3 ` ASTM:AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR TESTING AND MATERIALS/美国材料试验学会 184
/ J, r0 E/ g3 Z, B2 E' ~6 \' O$ P* fVocabulary/词汇表 189+ h# U; i$ i% d
References/参考文献 197
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