
纺织材料学(双语教材),刘妍,熊磊,PDF。普通高等教育“十一五”国家级规划教材(本科),纺织工程专业双语教材,电子目录,14M。
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内容提要
' `7 B N( z% Q7 x' ?0 |$ l6 J本书讨论了纤维、纱线与织物(包括机织物、针织物及非织造布)的结构、机械性能、物理性能及使用性能。涉及的纤维势括天然纤维(如棉、毛、麻、丝等)、传统化学纤维及新型化学纤维。本书同时介绍了纤维、纱线和织物的各种标准测试方法(包括国际上常用的ASTM, AATCC及GB等方法),并讨论了与各种测试方法有关的测试原理及对测试结果的影响因素。2 n! q6 V- h( G8 H
本书可供高等纺织院校纺织、服装相关专业的本科生及研究生作为《纺织材料学》的双语教材或专业英语教材,也可供其他专业师生、纺织贸易专业人员和科研及生产单位的技术人员参考。! E+ U, n9 _6 }' A
目录: g5 `1 `7 c; V) D1 Y% ]
Part Ⅰ An Introduction to Textiles/纺织入门 18
2 s1 A+ J* i+ t) I% W0 Y Chapter 1 Introduction/介绍 18
' W3 Z& r1 l3 p- ^0 b8 E5 O( } 1.1 ASTM Standard Terminology Relating to Textiles/ASTM纺织标准术语 18
" x5 m; d0 y5 t% Z2 y 1.2 Fiber history/纤维历史 26
. c& E2 S; s; U% Q 1.2.1 Natural fibers/天然纤维 26
8 I) B4 K# o# h8 x( L 1.2.2 Man-made fibers/化学纤维 27
+ o1 K! Q$ D% s, q+ V! } Questions/思考题 30+ w+ \2 f8 c! c p4 y
Part Ⅱ Textile Fibers/纺织纤维 327 \3 ]5 a$ f! z6 s% q
Chapter 2 Natural Cellulosic Fibers/天然纤维素纤维 32
S3 Z% ]2 g3 T/ x- h" k 2.1 Cotton/棉 33
: r7 \! c% Q R+ |, b! } 2.1.1 Nature of cotton/棉花的种类 33
" c% n" S! @: @' i0 I$ v0 D( y 2.1.2 Classification/分类 34% n3 L* C" `6 b# C* Y5 e
2.1.3 Growth and structure of cotton/棉纤维的生长与结构 34
' g9 _- L# A' Q: G4 J 2.1.4 Maturity/成熟度 36 y8 a. \7 K3 K7 U& Q7 n; ]' e
2.1.5 Cotton properties/棉纤维的性能 38/ e* ]8 B' j, h& x9 X# y
2.1.6 Cotton classification/棉花分级 393 @8 r: o( ^, [- }4 Q3 c" R
2.2 Bast fibers/韧皮纤维 40
( Q# Y/ t, T/ d( r* ~8 m 2.2.1 Flax (linen)/亚麻,亚麻织物 41; p. R( f$ D% M5 w' O/ Y+ k
2.2.2 Ramie/苎麻 43+ l7 u, M0 i8 _
2.2.3 Hemp/汉麻 44
) W7 m4 K7 ` }9 K+ e; g 2.2.4 Jute/黄麻 445 E. k% B6 Y* s- `
Questions/思考题 45
+ J) t: Y! {- Q, R Chapter 3 Natural Protein Fibers/天然蛋白质纤维 46
# ?( ]( ]0 |3 L: ^7 @* U( V) N6 s7 m 3.1 Wool/绵羊毛 468 ~ P, A6 n. f6 Q
3.1.1 Wool production and history/羊毛生产和历史 46
* c3 G6 X' m+ c 3.1.2 Wool grading/羊毛分级 47. t1 `4 M8 ^. J0 `8 `
3.1.3 Wool structure/羊毛结构 47
/ f" n) [: R& A" Q. n) S o2 N 3.1.4 Wool properties/羊毛性能 48' e" H6 }) b$ D% {& ?; T9 X
3.2 Specialty animal fibers/特种动物毛 51
7 d# k% v% P- ?% n/ \$ B; l) z, V 3.3 Silk/丝 527 `* Z# y0 O' K: W. U: j1 I
Questions/思考题 544 Q% \! E5 f- ~2 N( [7 d( d: ?
Chapter 4 Man-made Fibers/化学纤维 55% A( p+ w/ u! B7 p4 c7 x
4.1 Manufacturing processing of fiber/纤维生产工艺 554 e2 |" ?* S# E N! H1 {/ M- L! L% p
4.1.1 Wet spinning/湿法纺丝 56
8 }& N: E5 _- k8 s8 ] 4.1.2 Dry spinning/干法纺丝 56
7 M& H1 j7 ~: |" ~9 q2 b3 k 4.1.3 Melt spinning/熔体法纺丝 56
* r, r8 @: k( }' D6 Q% y# X 4.1.4 Gel spinning/凝胶纺丝 57+ w( i' e) H i5 |; F! t, t
4.2 Regenerated fibers/再生纤维 57
1 R; Y! c+ v n2 I- A# H _ 4.2.1 Acetate/醋酯纤维 57
5 d% { z# s* A- e 4.2.2 Triacetate/三醋酯纤维 59
" b7 K( }6 o# @, | R2 q. d/ d 4.2.3 Viscose fibers/粘胶纤维 59
. j M' k# b7 x3 Z 4.3 Synthetic fibers/合成纤维 600 g- T. X7 A* T; c
4.3.1 Acrylic/腈纶 60
7 r$ q5 X. J+ i' c! ? 4.3.2 Modacrylic/改性腈纶 61% Q1 x4 e8 B; f8 f! |
4.3.3 Nylon/锦纶 61, q: S/ [& L% j4 y: ?1 d
4.3.4 Polyester/涤纶 62
6 B- U5 k- _) P9 ?' y" m4 _9 G3 e1 |9 C 4.3.5 PBI/聚苯并咪唑纤维 63: _$ D3 ^2 F8 I: g4 O3 }; T4 F$ G
4.3.6 Vinal/聚乙烯醇纤维 63
b ]! | F1 N: K 4.3.7 Olefin/聚烯烃纤维 63
( k( L7 Q ^6 Q% Z' }" D0 g. G* o 4.3.8 Aramid/芳纶 64$ u" t+ p; E( {. t" U
4.3.9 Lycra/莱卡 64
$ k. A2 J @: x! ~: Y& i' w 4.4 Other man-made fibers/其他化学纤维 66 k; B- h3 B: ~) i
4.4.1 Glass/玻璃纤维 66
2 c: _* l$ |9 U9 k7 V/ i 4.4.2 Metallic/金属纤维 67
! [' M; }6 S1 g; a- p+ U# c2 P Questions/思考题 67; ^- ]3 \# [5 e& q% J" R+ V
Chapter 5 New Fibers/新型纤维 68
# w5 ]) Z$ {3 ]7 [6 x6 n 5.1 Carbon fibers/碳纤维 68
5 Y9 A, H8 D/ _$ B 5.2 Fluorocarbon/氟碳纤维 688 G" B! \7 w, z+ B+ O
5.3 Lyocell fibers(Tencel)/莱塞尔纤维 68
; w9 s' ?- t8 n, H( { 5.4 High-wet-modulus fibers/高湿模量纤维 69
- b3 g- M3 U- @ 5.4.1 Modal fibers/莫代尔纤维 69
- D; o" q. N( q( Z c, Q" H. X0 V& ? 5.4.2 Richcel/丽赛纤维 70
6 @8 U* ]. K; B2 n 5.5 Soybean protein composite fibers/大豆蛋白复合纤维 702 r6 c! A' Z8 ]* I; ^
5.6 PLA fiber/聚左旋乳酸纤维 71
2 }8 S7 d5 k; r" f: J( N9 | 5.7 Heterogenous fibers/复合纤维 71. b9 @& P% R" X5 b& N( X: R
5.7.1 Bicomponent or multicomponent/双组分或多组分 72" T6 A6 {: Q2 [3 z/ v
5.7.2 Biconstituent or multiconstituent/双成分或多成分 73
% }: z) j/ B0 A1 ^* l0 B 5.7.3 Matrix or matrix-fibril/基质型纤维 73
" j# F, Q" }5 {$ h5 E9 H4 X 5.8 Differential fibers/差别化纤维 74- B* ?2 C. ?8 u2 i6 w4 _
5.9 Functional fibers/功能性纤维 74# X3 e4 Y& L B p$ N9 V O
5.10 High performance fibers/高性能纤维 74! Y8 p6 R) _: R5 B
Questions/思考题 74
; ^, i: l% G+ G+ y& S# s Chapter 6 The Property of Absorbing Moisture/吸湿性 75' q" c$ \$ Y' E% U
6.1 Orientation and crystallization/取向与结晶 75
. F6 j) O/ S P7 A 6.2 Moisture sorption/吸湿性 75
* u" c& Y( K. S8 V% D7 r8 D 6.2.1 Regain and moisture content/回潮率与含水率 75
4 n5 ~$ C" n" s0 F7 F 6.2.2 Relation between regain and relative humidity/回潮率与相对湿度的关系 75" R6 C, ]5 | C6 q6 d
6.2.3 Comparison of various materials/不同材料吸湿性的对比 76
6 |9 i7 H3 O2 Z$ m+ V, c/ [8 c 6.2.4 Theories of moisture sorption/吸湿理论 78
S0 D/ X: w, t2 o. ~ Questions/思考题 80
0 L) V% g6 N0 w% p# o4 P9 p Chapter 7 Other Physical Properties of Textile Fibers/纤维的其他物理性能 81
9 i# V# j- h9 n; _6 `0 O" [ 7.1 Electronic properties/电学性能 815 X' V8 Q A% ~( W( C4 Z
7.1.1 Definitions/定义 81
+ f1 B" p; X5 |7 Q" r% B 7.2 Optical properties/光学性能 82
4 B! K5 x' K1 g, y 7.3 Thermal properties/热学性能 83# J( V- a; u9 G) Q8 ?8 A2 d# U
7.3.1 Thermal parameters/热力学参数 83
' }* Y& b4 o! r3 q2 J, W! s 7.3.2 A comparison of temperature effects/温度效应比较 83
4 g8 c1 H; K: |0 P0 X4 a7 U Questions/思考题 83- X1 ^7 D8 @# k" Q7 E
Part Ⅲ Textile Yarns/纺织纱线 84
! L* r4 e7 ]& ]- l+ F$ l% y3 W$ L Chapter 8 Yarn Processing and Construction/纱线制造与结构 84) o- o! q( S/ v. n0 k' N. o
8.1 Spun yarns/短纤纱 85
' W) n* K/ u; P9 H 8.2 Filament yarns/长丝纱 85
. K1 S2 T& d/ q5 Q! s2 ` 8.3 Methods of yarn processing/纺纱方法 85: s2 p* v$ W! }! n r' I! p' k& T
8.3.1 Ring-spinning/环锭纺 86
! E f9 e. `1 ?0 ]7 v 8.3.2 New methods of yarn processing/新型纺纱方法 86* b! i7 {0 _* A: Q7 F }
8.4 Single and ply yarns/单纱和股线 898 p; B2 e+ b3 _ C
8.5 Special types of yarn/特种纱线 903 ]* L% a0 z, F# t# P9 G. q+ M" t
8.5.1 Fancy yarns/花式纱 90/ f" Y( d5 z3 M6 u h
8.5.2 Stretch yarns/弹力纱 91
. v& n9 s" C6 X! f( K1 @% f 8.5.3 Textured yarns 变形纱线 914 {2 N/ F6 A: H. ?" L5 T( @
8.6 Blends and mixtures yarns/纱线混纺与混用 92
( M" q/ T1 j' l! Z3 H4 x6 D1 W Questions/思考题 93
% C- W j! K0 N+ Y* H/ Q' k Chapter 9 Yarn Properties/纱线性能 946 u, Y l& |# S8 _; q+ w, Y
9.1 Yarn number/纱线细度 946 B4 \) m1 Q. C0 |# ]: g0 b* F0 Y
9.1.1 Denier system/旦数 943 E, x6 E/ K' T+ J# c6 ~3 Z
9.1.2 Yarn count system/纱线英制支数 94
7 ?1 n- \& j/ w 9.1.3 Tex system/线密度 95
6 n( w$ z5 |2 K) I4 U% \5 G 9.1.4 Metric numbering system/公制支数 952 p2 K; e. S# H' T# k
9.1.5 Conversion in different systems/不同系统之间的换算 959 { L2 }* _6 R& X9 t/ I
9.2 Ply yarn counts and singles equivalent/股线支数与单纱支数 95# B+ l! P# f7 S! z" W" p1 z- w
9.3 Yarn twist/纱线捻度 96
7 g! k& Q7 t, r3 S 9.4 Yarn hairiness/纱线毛羽 97: U# C4 c' _8 r9 i
9.4.1 Hairiness test method/毛羽测试方法 986 |( H" }% \ W
9.4.2 Factors affecting hairiness/影响毛羽的因素 98
$ g& X% j# B; K7 [2 O( [ 9.5 Yarn unevenness/纱线不匀 99
7 A( l3 E3 A" P3 a 9.5.1 Test of yarn unevenness/纱线不匀的测试 99) }4 B& n* u) Q6 f* s; @( r
9.5.2 Reasons for yarn unevenness/纱线不匀的原因 100
6 f) s. W# E0 w- T. A; i, V 9.6 Classification of yarn quality/纱线质量分析 100
5 e( C- v6 `) T1 n' P Questions/思考题 100
+ ^5 o( _9 N) [- _Part Ⅳ Textile Fabrics/织物 102
: ]# x2 b( X. K Chapter 10 Woven Fabrics/机织物 102
* P% v7 N2 N+ ~* c' U 10.1 Making woven fabrics/织制机织物 102' l, n- a( b6 d7 X I6 h: i
10.1.1 The loom/织机 102 ?5 ^7 v, H- l2 T" Z: Z9 U0 }, C
10.1.2 Loom type/织机类型 104! T+ ~9 A* q0 z v
10.1.3 Loom motions/织机运动 1042 d- o7 N4 Y: H( v% ~
10.1.4 Electronics in weaving/电子技术在织机中的应用 105
8 P( i% h& _2 J7 ^: u 10.1.5 The selvage/布边 105+ w7 J. |$ L( Y6 F
10.2 Warp yarns and filling yarns/经纱和纬纱 1055 ~- ^: g, o- M% G" a
10.2.1 Identification/鉴别 106
8 C$ r, O h3 D$ _ 10.3 Face and back/正面与反面 106
3 H, ]8 _7 b( h* ~* E 10.3.1 Reasons for differenee/存在差异的原因 107
$ d O4 }8 |" D" t% J$ f 10.3.2 Caution/应用的要点 107. k4 L$ \' d* p" ^5 M- f5 t. V. u- }1 ?$ E& _
10.4 Top and bottom/顶端和底端 107* d7 T4 U1 g0 y1 }& l, J# c
10.4.1 Reasons for difference/存在差异的原因 107
! y) y4 s( G2 c 10.5 Weave floats/组织浮线 108
. ^2 m* v, h% e) v8 ] 10.6 Basic weaves/基本组织 108" m: R5 _, _+ S% x: }3 i" R$ U
10.6.1 Plain weave/平纹组织 1080 ?! o$ R0 L( y
10.6.2 Twill weave/斜纹组织 109
- L- y( L4 Y; _% f. V# m 10.6.3 Satin weave/缎纹组织 111
, A: |7 P0 }/ q+ Z 10.7 Fabric performance and characteristics/织物性能和参数 1123 X4 l% |7 H7 K" s M* K7 |
10.7.1 Fabric width/幅宽 112
. ?' d( O1 f+ i9 \0 h 10.7.2 Fabric weight/织物重量 112
7 I. x$ Y: K( @ 10.7.3 Fabric thickness/织物厚度 113
+ c0 u: q6 Q8 B7 b8 R4 L4 V 10.7.4 Fabric density/织物密度 113, [# C' O6 c+ }/ ^
10.7.5 Fabric count/织物经纬密度 1131 s) m, v$ A1 d- i
10.7.6 Fabric defects/织物疵点 113. E, Y5 `1 G6 F
Questions/思考题 1138 B2 @ U0 m" i ]; V8 B
Chapter 11 Knitted Fabrics/针织物 114
4 j0 W. y* _- [# X$ o 11.1 Making of knitted fabric/针织物形成 1140 _ v9 @) U+ g: S
11.1.1 The forming of knitted stitches/线圈的形成 114! e, j) S1 H0 ?. Z9 l* s% g
11.1.2 Types of knitted stitches/线圈的种类 116
) ?7 @% T- ?7 }0 \& @" N! g# p( g 11.2 Weft knits/纬编针织物 117" i. y7 M& `, e+ {, [
11.2.1 Jersey knit fabric/纬平针织物 117$ W) A5 W9 @# w0 F9 A; c2 K9 @
11.2.2 Rib knit fabric/罗纹针织物 118
8 A B E7 u6 B7 n 11.2.3 Purl knit fabric/双反面针织物 119 |: j) A$ e" i9 T) @
11.2.4 Double knits/双面针织物 120. o* b, w3 \& J- h5 B
11.2.5 Full-fashioned knits/全成形针织物 120
1 N6 U; ^8 V* n$ C/ F 11.3 Warp knits/经编针织物 121- `. x- j9 e5 ~3 G3 [
11.3.1 Tricot fabrics/特里科经编针织物 121
' O; o: x8 S, U 11.3.2 Raschel fabrics/拉舍尔经编针织物 122
! p" ? X& u! A% n# r, K- a. \: J# ` 11.4 Performance and characteristics/性能和参数 122
7 S) F$ y$ J- h( v5 }* t% q1 x! H Questions/思考题 123
* B# E' @1 }, L" G) }' b6 P Chapter 12 Nonwoven Fabrics/非织造布 124% b1 s. I2 a9 x+ n0 G. R
12.1 Introduction/导论 124
0 ?" ` [7 n. S* [ 12.2 Manufacturing methods/生产方法 125
" o* b t: x5 z+ P e: z+ D 12.2.1 Dry laid system/干法成网 125
+ `6 E- a( j" {8 k0 t 12.2.2 Wet laid system/湿法成网 125
( G. `+ {' w# M" G' E3 Y, ? 12.2.3 Polymer laid system/聚合物挤压法 125( j. V5 P7 z4 s3 r
12.3 Various nonwovens/各种非织造布 125% I$ W- p8 s- H2 c' g
12.3.1 Needle punched nonwovens/针刺法非织造布 125
# M0 ]5 b! A& t/ x @ 12.3.2 Bonded web nonwovens/黏合法非织造布 1266 Y y$ ]8 X f- f. s# N
12.3.3 Spunlaced nonwovens/射流喷网法非织造布 127
" N f! T% X+ _$ w' g# _ 12.3.4 Spunbonded nonwovens/纺粘法非织造布 128
4 N/ m! I$ a3 {# |# z; J. p 12.3.5 Melt-blown nonwovens/熔喷法非织造布 1299 u/ u8 w8 [+ X$ ]6 Y- [; b
Questions/思考题 129
% g3 W$ R I' yPart Ⅴ Textile Testing/纺织品测试 130
' J/ ^) r) n2 I1 g Chapter 13 General Test Methods/常规测试方法 1308 y5 N/ X: R1 I ]( ]" N
13.1 General fiber tests/纤维常规测试 1300 W" h" F, ~1 G# ]6 T+ H7 C* o
13.1.1 Fiber identification/纤维鉴别 1307 O( w3 y" R8 j; Q
13.1.2 Fiber length/纤维长度 134 Q, ^8 `7 B6 K+ B1 N: |! [- K$ |
13.1.3 Fiber fineness or linear density/纤维细度或线密度 135
) T# f0 `& p/ |, U9 d7 f- U2 B 13.1.4 Cross-sectional shape/截面形状 135( b: V' }5 W7 i" ]: w: G3 u
13.1.5 Crimp/卷曲 135
# x+ v V' E! ] p; R 13.1.6 Regain/回潮率 1368 C |7 a: v2 y) d+ G. j+ s
13.1.7 Mechanical properties/机械性能 136
1 B6 b/ z% s }4 v' K, U% ~& n/ m! j 13.1.8 Chemical characteristics/化学性能 136
9 @/ B' A! Z( T/ G# m4 ` 13.1.9 Surface characteristics/表面性能 136" m$ H, ^- z! {9 e0 `0 @
13.1.10 Density and specific gravity/密度和相对密度 137" g2 o Y5 \8 w1 y) K* b4 w
13.2 Special tests for natural fibers/天然纤维的测试 1378 c5 `6 h4 c9 q2 t6 e- k% Q; v2 T
13.2.1 Tests for cotton/棉纤维测试 1373 N. i" L/ @6 n% O) R f. y
13.2.2 Tests for wool/毛纤维测试 139& Z- G- T& l5 [, u S# C" i q
13.3 Testing of tensile properties/拉伸性能测试 140
5 M% R, t1 v8 `# D X8 q 13.3.1 Description of tensile proprieties/拉伸性能的描述 1415 u Z7 } q5 ^2 h! U1 X
13.3.2 Fiber and yarn tensile testing/纤维和纱线拉伸性能的测试 1460 F1 `$ u' l- V& l9 G) ~$ M5 ]
13.3.3 Fabric tensile testing/织物拉伸性能测试方法 147
1 G! W! Y8 x; y" V1 T: [ Questions/思考题 1493 Y0 G+ t5 |8 t; T) a7 o
Chapter 14 Fabric Abrasion and Pilling/织物磨损与起球 150
6 P# ?( G; K% d0 @: B+ H3 ? 14.1 Types of abrasion/磨损的类型 150
( z, s5 n- x ~; @" \ 14.1.1 Abrasion between fabrics/织物间的磨损 150) y, B8 f; k; M& R3 O1 ]
14.1.2 Abrasion between fabric and a nontextile surface/织物与非纤维制品表面磨损 150
& K" f& g% Z2 A3 |" w- B* R/ q 14.1.3 Abrasion within fabric/织物内部磨损 1511 f9 ~" w8 I/ h( ?/ i4 I, R# A
14.1.4 Abrasion by foreign materials within the fabric/与织物内部其他材料的磨损 151
4 ^% |% s* f- {- { 14.2 Factors affecting fabric abrasion resistance/影响耐磨性能的因素 151
7 l6 x7 q$ g1 A& s% o8 C, a+ L 14.2.1 Fabric properties/织物性能 151
M8 ]* n$ _ H4 l2 N) u# Z) ~: W9 @ 14.2.2 Other factors/其他因素 1534 \5 [0 Q# z: d4 h# g# h
14.3 Abrasion testing/磨损测试 154, l6 I. a, S! \' \* n
14.3.1 Visual comparison with an unabraded specimen/与未磨损样品视觉对比 154 x2 J; a0 @ K
14.3.2 Number of cycles to produce a hole/产生磨损破洞需要的摩擦圈数 154
! T8 t0 C4 x. n* g/ r6 P" @- N 14.3.3 Change in a physical property/物理性能的变化 154$ F8 `/ e# K2 }' w& g( s
14.3.4 Microscopic examination/显微镜观测 155
8 r6 W2 u4 I" c4 `$ U 14.4 Aesthetics of abrasion and wear/穿着和磨损对美感的影响 155
: Y) b! l5 K4 {' {9 a3 ] 14.4.1 Color changes caused by abrasion/磨损引起的颜色变化 1551 W# C. d0 p, v7 `9 ?
14.4.2 Pilling/起球 156
- _2 R, P0 P: V. s8 B2 Q* I J Questions/思考题 157, l! I1 o5 [7 M( u$ U
Chapter 15 Fabric Hand and Drape/织物手感与悬垂 1586 a ?; N/ U' h6 K5 z
15.1 Fabric hand/织物手感 158
1 b$ w3 [( a& [: x 15.2 Fabric drape/织物悬垂 1599 U; k5 h4 P+ j4 K
15.3 Measurement of hand and drape/手感与悬垂的评价 161
, e) m/ N, W# C3 b; {( H: P 15.3.1 Subjective evaluation/主观评定法 161
" P9 t0 M8 D) C9 a3 o7 Z2 ? 15.3.2 Quantitative measurement/定量评定法 162' R1 |/ B4 z3 c4 X! x. e# i8 ~
15.3.3 Kawabata evaluation system/KES评定法 1639 N4 w' P5 [( v: o I8 @: s& k
Questions/思考题 163
, R/ N4 V5 Q7 O4 l \! E# P Chapter 16 Fabric Colorfastness/织物染色牢度 1645 l3 P' C: y0 w ?) X; G8 R
16.1 Evaluation of color and colorfastness/颜色和染色牢度评定方法 164
5 ]+ b: H4 P; w8 e! { 16.2 Colorfastness tests/染色牢度测试 164
/ c4 W% P- y6 h+ G! F 16.2.1 Colorfastness to crocking/耐摩擦色牢度 164
7 z7 Q+ A/ N3 t+ Y) e* b" O 16.2.2 Colorfastness to laundering and bleaching/耐洗涤和耐漂白色牢 165
3 ]# {5 [0 M$ n 16.2.3 Colorfastness to drycleaning/耐干洗色牢度 166
1 ^' Z+ c7 f+ I; {' [) F0 V 16.2.4 Colorfastness to perspiration/耐汗渍色牢度 166$ E! j8 f. ]' m3 {
16.2.5 Colorfastness to water/耐水浸色牢度 166) x1 ?8 c' f+ l$ C7 p) |* n: ?
16.2.6 Colorfastness to light/耐光照色牢度 167# f0 I# V/ r# _; ]7 v1 t
16.2.7 Colorfastness to atmospheric contaminants/耐空气污染色牢度 168) K1 Q0 t. j& A: w# S% ]/ I3 B! i
Questions/思考题 168
3 H+ k; a. l& i% y/ c* y! p Chapter 17 Fabric Flammability/织物可燃性 169
8 n4 u; X+ }' v* I. v4 E6 [# n4 o 17.1 Flammability standards/可燃性标准 169
& g( i% P" T# v/ b+ l/ X) T5 y 17.2 Properties affecting flammability/影响可燃性的因素 169* {+ b/ y- a' D& O1 y6 ~
17.3 Flammability testing/可燃性测试 171
; H- S* T* U7 N0 E2 T5 v- N 17.3.1 Forty-five degree angle test/45°燃烧测试法 171
/ ^2 u; U( Z5 T9 h$ Y6 N" j 17.3.2 Vertical flame tests/垂直燃烧测试法 172- Q S L9 m$ W, K: h8 N' ^) I6 L
17.3.3 Carpet testing/地毯测试 172
/ ^* ?. G# T5 R( g( x7 q2 I( ] 17.3.4 Cigarette tests/卷烟点燃测试 172; G3 g' a* q& J7 |0 r( c; v3 E! D
17.3.5 Other standard flammability tests/其他可燃性测试 173
; m5 f2 @8 m3 [/ p( J4 T, s Questions/思考题 173
" c- O; e* m- @: w0 e {3 e Chapter 18 Comfort of Textiles/纺织品舒适性 174
9 i3 R- q4 ]8 o7 W% S 18.1 Physical phenomena affecting thermal comfort/影响热舒适性能的物理现象 174
+ P+ X4 T/ c$ j5 | 18.1.1 Heat transfer/热传递 174" w$ w; i& {: ]# V2 A1 n
18.1.2 Moisture transfer/湿传递 175# I7 T r4 _+ `: _* u; G+ I/ y I
18.1.3 Water resistance/抗水性 1755 u* }0 I5 E9 m: G8 Q. ?3 r
18.1.4 Air transfer/透气性 176. l- r- u# z. p# ~& Y' V: D
18.1.5 Porosity and cover factor/多孔性和覆盖系数 176
/ U, _) q% S4 c3 _2 B 18.1.6 Electrostatic propensity/静电 177& C9 r1 [% g5 H4 Y0 C
18.2 Evaluations of textile properties related to comfort/与舒适性相关的纺织品性能评价 177
; T. J# y" h- U7 w( A 18.2.1 Heat transfer/热传递 178% {* t4 q1 h7 I
18.2.2 Moisture properties/湿传递性能 179: J0 F, r: l& s; ^' }
18.2.3 Air permeability/透气性 179, }; @* v9 [+ P1 ]) E+ |$ ]! s5 Z
18.2.4 Porosity/孔隙率 180
7 t2 {4 P2 h& P' e: T# L1 L 18.2.5 Electrostatic tests/静电测试 180 `+ ~0 G9 H* d! u
Questions/思考题 180
5 N9 g5 K1 I4 t' G9 ]; q3 d" x0 fAppendix/附录 181
/ t$ E7 r; Y3 s$ n. b2 | AATCC:AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS/美国纺织化学家与染色家协会 181. ?: H$ _1 I, d! q
ASTM:AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR TESTING AND MATERIALS/美国材料试验学会 184
& j+ O, m) k, E/ v$ ^Vocabulary/词汇表 189
" `: z- B5 L! LReferences/参考文献 1972 d- {4 K, Z# T% X! {; u8 B: y
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