
纺织材料学(双语教材),刘妍,熊磊,PDF。普通高等教育“十一五”国家级规划教材(本科),纺织工程专业双语教材,电子目录,14M。/ [; j5 X1 U) T* S& {
4 q3 T/ [5 h6 n. G6 t3 q0 n- r内容提要' L, o, h* u, j: W5 c
本书讨论了纤维、纱线与织物(包括机织物、针织物及非织造布)的结构、机械性能、物理性能及使用性能。涉及的纤维势括天然纤维(如棉、毛、麻、丝等)、传统化学纤维及新型化学纤维。本书同时介绍了纤维、纱线和织物的各种标准测试方法(包括国际上常用的ASTM, AATCC及GB等方法),并讨论了与各种测试方法有关的测试原理及对测试结果的影响因素。
$ v/ o5 K! |5 D本书可供高等纺织院校纺织、服装相关专业的本科生及研究生作为《纺织材料学》的双语教材或专业英语教材,也可供其他专业师生、纺织贸易专业人员和科研及生产单位的技术人员参考。
) c8 Z" w, W h目录1 s; n, B! L" ?) T
Part Ⅰ An Introduction to Textiles/纺织入门 18
1 ^1 e" b$ L5 N9 V* C! b Chapter 1 Introduction/介绍 18
9 j7 s& |8 q2 j. K4 E7 L( X9 l 1.1 ASTM Standard Terminology Relating to Textiles/ASTM纺织标准术语 18, z3 D- O2 A4 |
1.2 Fiber history/纤维历史 26
( d* [$ H/ M- D, @1 o 1.2.1 Natural fibers/天然纤维 26
% l; P; o) R4 L. x& { 1.2.2 Man-made fibers/化学纤维 27( g) ~5 ]" \2 g: D
Questions/思考题 30- J0 z# h7 X& [
Part Ⅱ Textile Fibers/纺织纤维 32
/ W7 E( f7 h2 g3 ^; d# _ Chapter 2 Natural Cellulosic Fibers/天然纤维素纤维 322 h$ X! Y7 Q) t; x
2.1 Cotton/棉 33
! W$ B: v/ c% p# N/ B3 |% m1 x 2.1.1 Nature of cotton/棉花的种类 33- g* G; c9 [% w A
2.1.2 Classification/分类 34
8 q) A# x; G# u6 d' ~$ V5 P 2.1.3 Growth and structure of cotton/棉纤维的生长与结构 342 m0 m+ T' c) y. N n% v" M; M d6 }
2.1.4 Maturity/成熟度 368 g F' W' `! ]) d+ u; e' c& M' ?
2.1.5 Cotton properties/棉纤维的性能 389 C7 |3 Q8 q' J; M
2.1.6 Cotton classification/棉花分级 39
6 ]# z' N* u0 q0 h+ [# {# y 2.2 Bast fibers/韧皮纤维 40
5 Z- j8 G$ L0 B m 2.2.1 Flax (linen)/亚麻,亚麻织物 41
: p& |) |) }$ c 2.2.2 Ramie/苎麻 438 W1 V7 c5 w+ B
2.2.3 Hemp/汉麻 44
! U' |. p! x8 c+ p9 r 2.2.4 Jute/黄麻 44
: ?0 h/ E ~9 \ ~" R Questions/思考题 45( E7 ]2 @: Y& f& c: n
Chapter 3 Natural Protein Fibers/天然蛋白质纤维 46
) E7 i: J# ~, t- l; c 3.1 Wool/绵羊毛 46
+ R4 ]- x' f' o# H, u8 D7 } 3.1.1 Wool production and history/羊毛生产和历史 46
2 M9 X2 g9 t4 ~) k5 j0 T 3.1.2 Wool grading/羊毛分级 47
H7 K; D1 V3 h6 F. M1 r 3.1.3 Wool structure/羊毛结构 47
1 ?8 A- H b/ W0 ^ E* e. R% } 3.1.4 Wool properties/羊毛性能 482 x3 W; d9 C/ v, k% l* E3 [9 G! I4 s$ K
3.2 Specialty animal fibers/特种动物毛 51
0 i! t! _3 r0 ~& x: I# {% M 3.3 Silk/丝 52! O2 y: S4 X) Q( L4 ^0 p. `
Questions/思考题 54
/ Z; L( k9 y7 K2 ^% ?% Z5 a4 B4 [0 s Chapter 4 Man-made Fibers/化学纤维 55
) b! r$ M; G" ^, O8 m( `3 ^5 K9 T 4.1 Manufacturing processing of fiber/纤维生产工艺 55
- U2 u6 w# [, O c4 ] 4.1.1 Wet spinning/湿法纺丝 56
) W% X+ H8 U( e& | ]. E 4.1.2 Dry spinning/干法纺丝 561 L2 p1 C5 b# H4 T) o1 I& \
4.1.3 Melt spinning/熔体法纺丝 56
$ @- v# D5 k0 D; L3 W4 |' W 4.1.4 Gel spinning/凝胶纺丝 57
o2 s1 Z/ w/ G' ~ 4.2 Regenerated fibers/再生纤维 57
, d/ t& [8 j( ^ 4.2.1 Acetate/醋酯纤维 57
7 P$ E F5 J5 J# E' q 4.2.2 Triacetate/三醋酯纤维 59
. R( h; X+ U3 c0 b H y+ l7 m 4.2.3 Viscose fibers/粘胶纤维 59
/ ^# i( I& ^' `* y7 w 4.3 Synthetic fibers/合成纤维 60
0 U% p; L) E+ n' C* N/ D5 n* s 4.3.1 Acrylic/腈纶 60
7 ?; u; S/ ?8 n2 W# _ 4.3.2 Modacrylic/改性腈纶 614 F, V @! n6 L; o
4.3.3 Nylon/锦纶 618 H- K& M% T4 }- Z5 ]+ U q
4.3.4 Polyester/涤纶 62
9 Y! Q; M; ~% H9 X$ ? m, \6 A 4.3.5 PBI/聚苯并咪唑纤维 63" L: e; e7 r, Z6 e1 ]: E
4.3.6 Vinal/聚乙烯醇纤维 63 O& D. {: B* Y6 E) T2 V
4.3.7 Olefin/聚烯烃纤维 632 r: O% X. N" g" i% _8 q
4.3.8 Aramid/芳纶 64& U1 k3 U- l5 n4 j& L# i
4.3.9 Lycra/莱卡 64; G: f4 ^9 }8 m. E f! _$ u) c
4.4 Other man-made fibers/其他化学纤维 66
& Y& H* Q# t8 Z; n% z 4.4.1 Glass/玻璃纤维 66
w8 X( P* J6 H% U" }2 g: T 4.4.2 Metallic/金属纤维 67
8 s9 g$ A9 R/ G* `- @ Questions/思考题 67
1 u1 W+ T5 h' t! }9 s$ M9 U Chapter 5 New Fibers/新型纤维 68
- a/ H" m! N' H 5.1 Carbon fibers/碳纤维 68
& E b/ S3 J$ y! K) f: s X1 O 5.2 Fluorocarbon/氟碳纤维 68
* K9 p5 @% D/ ~( B# f7 h 5.3 Lyocell fibers(Tencel)/莱塞尔纤维 68! C( e: K& n: A y
5.4 High-wet-modulus fibers/高湿模量纤维 69) k5 G( P; {8 w k
5.4.1 Modal fibers/莫代尔纤维 69
, y- m) W' e6 F) b" i; L 5.4.2 Richcel/丽赛纤维 70: T0 n+ L; @/ Y4 v! a
5.5 Soybean protein composite fibers/大豆蛋白复合纤维 70
* Z; v$ w$ T1 R 5.6 PLA fiber/聚左旋乳酸纤维 71
# L* E4 r# [6 }) s) q/ m 5.7 Heterogenous fibers/复合纤维 71
! m7 q" m7 Y$ ?/ h4 \ 5.7.1 Bicomponent or multicomponent/双组分或多组分 721 y) }; ~8 `4 v
5.7.2 Biconstituent or multiconstituent/双成分或多成分 732 B8 K4 b8 P' u7 \% z+ e- {
5.7.3 Matrix or matrix-fibril/基质型纤维 73
; W& x6 s* ?: J/ q# W& G# H, M 5.8 Differential fibers/差别化纤维 74
$ S: X) }6 r# H W# x0 ^4 Q 5.9 Functional fibers/功能性纤维 747 K: G$ ~2 B. m
5.10 High performance fibers/高性能纤维 74
) z( ^# Z2 C! n) ^# V V Questions/思考题 74+ J' C7 Y7 q0 O
Chapter 6 The Property of Absorbing Moisture/吸湿性 75
+ K; h- k: r1 B 6.1 Orientation and crystallization/取向与结晶 75) F4 I% d4 r* X) o# g
6.2 Moisture sorption/吸湿性 75
* g6 h! r* B7 Y$ t8 n2 } 6.2.1 Regain and moisture content/回潮率与含水率 75( h* U4 G* y# i" C+ f h4 f
6.2.2 Relation between regain and relative humidity/回潮率与相对湿度的关系 75$ h' f! F) |) M( z8 c( f: t D0 X" Q3 X
6.2.3 Comparison of various materials/不同材料吸湿性的对比 76
2 u [$ a, [0 h& D/ _8 N6 f 6.2.4 Theories of moisture sorption/吸湿理论 78. t- D4 Z1 x- q: K/ b" q
Questions/思考题 80
2 e9 F5 }% y0 z9 b1 M Chapter 7 Other Physical Properties of Textile Fibers/纤维的其他物理性能 81) h* K- B1 H2 y
7.1 Electronic properties/电学性能 81# \ }5 y f3 h g: |
7.1.1 Definitions/定义 81% l8 d; L9 r) c T; W
7.2 Optical properties/光学性能 82( l+ v8 C- T5 b! b u
7.3 Thermal properties/热学性能 83( H9 }/ L6 q; j/ k4 n
7.3.1 Thermal parameters/热力学参数 83( p8 V6 ?! A5 D9 L
7.3.2 A comparison of temperature effects/温度效应比较 839 R) w" ^, ]& p1 Z$ c
Questions/思考题 839 R, g/ h! k. r$ H( P: }( q
Part Ⅲ Textile Yarns/纺织纱线 84: O7 m$ U2 F' X9 Z* ]8 o0 P
Chapter 8 Yarn Processing and Construction/纱线制造与结构 84* x, J; D' d' n4 o/ H2 S
8.1 Spun yarns/短纤纱 854 u; W" Q; M! Y0 R
8.2 Filament yarns/长丝纱 85
9 x/ `& P( ?) h3 C 8.3 Methods of yarn processing/纺纱方法 854 e/ u7 s' g2 N( W
8.3.1 Ring-spinning/环锭纺 86
/ _! Y3 j- U( j: P% K- c 8.3.2 New methods of yarn processing/新型纺纱方法 86
2 K+ E% L* w. p" _& q 8.4 Single and ply yarns/单纱和股线 89 B5 C: ^" ^. _7 y; c H
8.5 Special types of yarn/特种纱线 90
) A+ F$ C1 z2 q3 X c9 m 8.5.1 Fancy yarns/花式纱 90
% k6 Q2 ~6 R h8 i# d8 O8 B 8.5.2 Stretch yarns/弹力纱 91
* W) j! ^1 [5 ^5 V3 ` S |3 T 8.5.3 Textured yarns 变形纱线 91. }; Z& `5 X& m- `2 B
8.6 Blends and mixtures yarns/纱线混纺与混用 92( g/ z7 ^5 m6 e( H
Questions/思考题 931 P* I* a/ T6 ~% @4 }5 _- j
Chapter 9 Yarn Properties/纱线性能 94: a% M: N; A- D7 m4 y% g1 z& l
9.1 Yarn number/纱线细度 94
4 o& ~, ^ i( `7 T! F; x 9.1.1 Denier system/旦数 94
6 J6 `2 J) e0 w$ n* q7 z1 R 9.1.2 Yarn count system/纱线英制支数 94
- R5 L6 h8 t% A# u 9.1.3 Tex system/线密度 95
7 b& F1 s5 u: B3 O$ t! d+ e6 o 9.1.4 Metric numbering system/公制支数 95
+ N5 }& X2 ^( J+ V& J/ R0 | 9.1.5 Conversion in different systems/不同系统之间的换算 95( O Q/ @* y, p: N& [
9.2 Ply yarn counts and singles equivalent/股线支数与单纱支数 95
% R" x' v Q) I 9.3 Yarn twist/纱线捻度 96
1 w+ R% l9 c0 |2 o* } 9.4 Yarn hairiness/纱线毛羽 97- w* U7 h, h- Y& [2 r7 u
9.4.1 Hairiness test method/毛羽测试方法 98& ^6 l N/ R8 ]: x
9.4.2 Factors affecting hairiness/影响毛羽的因素 983 h9 Z9 G, z! T' m
9.5 Yarn unevenness/纱线不匀 99$ ^& _0 T; o4 m; }1 \1 a
9.5.1 Test of yarn unevenness/纱线不匀的测试 99! g2 E7 g: Q8 y) s
9.5.2 Reasons for yarn unevenness/纱线不匀的原因 100( p( W8 \$ z: D1 B. q% M+ J
9.6 Classification of yarn quality/纱线质量分析 100% s7 [4 v% Q! ~, t) m
Questions/思考题 1004 z6 ?6 s' d4 c5 k* R T4 c
Part Ⅳ Textile Fabrics/织物 1020 I" i) d6 k' U& e
Chapter 10 Woven Fabrics/机织物 102
( X$ I4 ~8 U [; e% g: W4 V, B 10.1 Making woven fabrics/织制机织物 102# C* C4 j5 d; \5 z
10.1.1 The loom/织机 102
) l3 i* l# V8 p+ S 10.1.2 Loom type/织机类型 104
) H J6 K; ^3 w- N6 I3 M 10.1.3 Loom motions/织机运动 104! v: C/ U2 G6 H* {2 j
10.1.4 Electronics in weaving/电子技术在织机中的应用 105
' {) l2 h! K' r2 y 10.1.5 The selvage/布边 1050 |' y) Z0 c# I' ]
10.2 Warp yarns and filling yarns/经纱和纬纱 105/ d; ^/ E- @8 T" a. s
10.2.1 Identification/鉴别 106
& f8 d% e! g6 g 10.3 Face and back/正面与反面 1069 ^1 }( M6 L# e* z# W" R, a
10.3.1 Reasons for differenee/存在差异的原因 107- h! v/ S. A/ r6 z
10.3.2 Caution/应用的要点 107
4 q* F( k- j8 b; W0 u2 d% z 10.4 Top and bottom/顶端和底端 107, r0 n9 \% L1 s% k. V
10.4.1 Reasons for difference/存在差异的原因 107
3 a' t) Y# ?+ Y. `& S: F" ?0 k# l 10.5 Weave floats/组织浮线 1085 z \+ H+ r! D5 `2 _4 ?! _. Y
10.6 Basic weaves/基本组织 108
8 _0 n) n/ G( V" c 10.6.1 Plain weave/平纹组织 108
$ P$ l& y4 Q4 ~5 ~8 D 10.6.2 Twill weave/斜纹组织 109
; x& ~! s: i+ Y/ ?' z 10.6.3 Satin weave/缎纹组织 111; N% o. ~$ u. {
10.7 Fabric performance and characteristics/织物性能和参数 112
% {; v% t/ Z: w$ V 10.7.1 Fabric width/幅宽 112 O7 c! r% i5 {* N5 @. Y: m
10.7.2 Fabric weight/织物重量 112
) @/ n7 Z* ]# q( Q+ b' { | 10.7.3 Fabric thickness/织物厚度 113
' |' G! Z" h s# g4 E4 A 10.7.4 Fabric density/织物密度 113+ Z, M8 L2 H2 m: E2 G- J" H
10.7.5 Fabric count/织物经纬密度 113
& D# f8 `$ O* q6 m 10.7.6 Fabric defects/织物疵点 113/ v% o5 }: w* ]( G1 r
Questions/思考题 113- Z$ v/ b9 D0 L, \0 L- T' C
Chapter 11 Knitted Fabrics/针织物 114' T3 v9 r, ^, @& g- j9 [
11.1 Making of knitted fabric/针织物形成 114
9 B4 M q% M" m2 ~5 Z" E 11.1.1 The forming of knitted stitches/线圈的形成 114. d( ], O3 D: P
11.1.2 Types of knitted stitches/线圈的种类 116; T! X6 l/ D! H- J
11.2 Weft knits/纬编针织物 117
7 `0 Q& V2 \ Y9 v" ^ 11.2.1 Jersey knit fabric/纬平针织物 117
; I; ?1 l1 e9 U. P 11.2.2 Rib knit fabric/罗纹针织物 1189 d2 ]$ P, n1 ]- j( G9 _) m' D1 ]
11.2.3 Purl knit fabric/双反面针织物 119
# Z+ G, m5 q, x4 s0 b8 U 11.2.4 Double knits/双面针织物 120$ r4 ~- z' ?2 _+ Z( y$ _
11.2.5 Full-fashioned knits/全成形针织物 120
0 {5 S, i7 Z& C! C+ A 11.3 Warp knits/经编针织物 1216 C4 c9 k# ^) u3 U& W
11.3.1 Tricot fabrics/特里科经编针织物 121& B% B5 V5 V% G0 F
11.3.2 Raschel fabrics/拉舍尔经编针织物 122
$ L: j( V+ [# S- B9 v+ e 11.4 Performance and characteristics/性能和参数 122; M% j: G0 W8 z/ f$ S" s2 E
Questions/思考题 123- |' ~# r( y, v( @
Chapter 12 Nonwoven Fabrics/非织造布 124- J6 Z H2 W3 q5 c. ^' X* v
12.1 Introduction/导论 124( k7 o( G, Z# K/ ]4 d. l8 Q
12.2 Manufacturing methods/生产方法 125
' P; m. E5 j* ]4 a# v3 [( P8 E 12.2.1 Dry laid system/干法成网 1251 h- `7 k' A' Q( Y# F" O
12.2.2 Wet laid system/湿法成网 125. @9 [% O' Z( j2 [8 C1 G7 |2 j2 i
12.2.3 Polymer laid system/聚合物挤压法 125
* ~/ }5 t' s' J! W8 S) R 12.3 Various nonwovens/各种非织造布 125
+ ^6 o3 t% [+ L t/ C' ]6 h 12.3.1 Needle punched nonwovens/针刺法非织造布 125
* \6 \" y" c3 `$ P9 C5 ~4 U( W 12.3.2 Bonded web nonwovens/黏合法非织造布 126' T# }* B6 z5 g* V8 }' K, n
12.3.3 Spunlaced nonwovens/射流喷网法非织造布 127
6 z& @% _8 p3 e' [ 12.3.4 Spunbonded nonwovens/纺粘法非织造布 1283 ]( U* S# n( c3 e* L. C% @5 }
12.3.5 Melt-blown nonwovens/熔喷法非织造布 129; o# ?. q5 a3 N
Questions/思考题 129
9 S- T" T m9 TPart Ⅴ Textile Testing/纺织品测试 130* O* M" ~! e4 z( U) E
Chapter 13 General Test Methods/常规测试方法 130: t8 y" {: a+ Y% h% g
13.1 General fiber tests/纤维常规测试 130" ]7 a" F' |2 S
13.1.1 Fiber identification/纤维鉴别 1301 d" ?* P6 w w
13.1.2 Fiber length/纤维长度 134# h) X/ j8 `! A9 E( v7 k$ l
13.1.3 Fiber fineness or linear density/纤维细度或线密度 135
6 u9 Y/ l! C, i: e: X 13.1.4 Cross-sectional shape/截面形状 1350 y. o9 z' X' f4 z9 ~: l' v1 t
13.1.5 Crimp/卷曲 135% [ Y3 W" m4 y, A1 h9 X+ t$ |
13.1.6 Regain/回潮率 1367 b- J& d, H6 K1 B$ D7 ^
13.1.7 Mechanical properties/机械性能 136. I5 M0 [! _$ ^% [
13.1.8 Chemical characteristics/化学性能 1363 L( z, `3 R/ R; Z# j$ T
13.1.9 Surface characteristics/表面性能 136
$ Y; d8 Q$ e9 O! y4 {2 i$ h 13.1.10 Density and specific gravity/密度和相对密度 137# }5 I3 o, u, f$ r' M4 t
13.2 Special tests for natural fibers/天然纤维的测试 137
. i0 c, [1 p) q! H0 M- L9 O+ h 13.2.1 Tests for cotton/棉纤维测试 137
/ `5 g: ^1 d/ O+ p; Z 13.2.2 Tests for wool/毛纤维测试 139
9 A( ]' |8 K' {5 H$ e 13.3 Testing of tensile properties/拉伸性能测试 140
& g( @0 _" V; H! U. a$ N 13.3.1 Description of tensile proprieties/拉伸性能的描述 141
s) T# Y5 x; A1 ] 13.3.2 Fiber and yarn tensile testing/纤维和纱线拉伸性能的测试 146# W" J2 c. M l. D8 r8 y
13.3.3 Fabric tensile testing/织物拉伸性能测试方法 147- f( t3 k% d# [4 |1 Q. `4 O" ]
Questions/思考题 149, O/ }6 ?1 E3 W$ G+ M& p3 d
Chapter 14 Fabric Abrasion and Pilling/织物磨损与起球 150
9 L* h5 x5 L: }4 A 14.1 Types of abrasion/磨损的类型 1502 y9 w# i" T' n3 h- E( m: J
14.1.1 Abrasion between fabrics/织物间的磨损 150
3 E, Z; \7 Y! ^& h; @. n: o* [/ S4 f6 T 14.1.2 Abrasion between fabric and a nontextile surface/织物与非纤维制品表面磨损 150
7 V9 \ H. ` [# W& f 14.1.3 Abrasion within fabric/织物内部磨损 151
. A H2 h/ @3 ] ^8 ]8 v) k8 X 14.1.4 Abrasion by foreign materials within the fabric/与织物内部其他材料的磨损 151
5 m- {- s) L% O" Z 14.2 Factors affecting fabric abrasion resistance/影响耐磨性能的因素 151; k8 m4 p! E& o/ f/ g7 Q( o9 h0 G
14.2.1 Fabric properties/织物性能 151" P2 N' t5 D( u" b( t( y% ~
14.2.2 Other factors/其他因素 153. e; r3 `# G% k* A
14.3 Abrasion testing/磨损测试 154# f0 b- f0 r3 a3 i t3 ?% _/ N, f( l
14.3.1 Visual comparison with an unabraded specimen/与未磨损样品视觉对比 154
2 _9 q& I/ \) G* C+ D+ e9 v8 y 14.3.2 Number of cycles to produce a hole/产生磨损破洞需要的摩擦圈数 154
7 G$ b7 J$ Q( r 14.3.3 Change in a physical property/物理性能的变化 1545 k) ], S+ I0 u0 M' t
14.3.4 Microscopic examination/显微镜观测 155; }( c: s$ H/ k1 M$ _+ L" D* y
14.4 Aesthetics of abrasion and wear/穿着和磨损对美感的影响 155! |$ [: N8 H* C) C
14.4.1 Color changes caused by abrasion/磨损引起的颜色变化 155
& X- ]3 Q- ]0 |; u3 {% O2 u 14.4.2 Pilling/起球 1564 e8 |# n; u; m5 O5 C
Questions/思考题 157, _9 a- L8 `, t
Chapter 15 Fabric Hand and Drape/织物手感与悬垂 158( a1 K$ m3 G; A" L2 i
15.1 Fabric hand/织物手感 1582 j0 O* L* n' n* _4 Z' W
15.2 Fabric drape/织物悬垂 159
2 e1 [* f% l2 ]5 |: r7 D 15.3 Measurement of hand and drape/手感与悬垂的评价 161
h& b: L j! U+ A8 _# f L% B& z 15.3.1 Subjective evaluation/主观评定法 161' V: |4 E0 w1 E# f; c
15.3.2 Quantitative measurement/定量评定法 162
, j, w: p3 i" ?/ X 15.3.3 Kawabata evaluation system/KES评定法 1635 \( F( l; \ `, e
Questions/思考题 163
) }* u1 N @3 {6 L) [ Chapter 16 Fabric Colorfastness/织物染色牢度 1647 }" s7 k; m/ i7 ]' B2 d% R
16.1 Evaluation of color and colorfastness/颜色和染色牢度评定方法 1649 b+ W8 P& W: \. o; E
16.2 Colorfastness tests/染色牢度测试 1640 a4 x6 D/ d: l) @ M
16.2.1 Colorfastness to crocking/耐摩擦色牢度 164! Q3 _% s& o: O2 _' [! l
16.2.2 Colorfastness to laundering and bleaching/耐洗涤和耐漂白色牢 165
# _) N* M; { x, Y1 W7 `. b5 N 16.2.3 Colorfastness to drycleaning/耐干洗色牢度 166
# E2 j: @( P, l; @5 U5 u* r; [ 16.2.4 Colorfastness to perspiration/耐汗渍色牢度 166
Z" f* O) C1 B: B$ Q 16.2.5 Colorfastness to water/耐水浸色牢度 166
O. r0 I/ y$ B* G 16.2.6 Colorfastness to light/耐光照色牢度 167
, Y( v& N! {! ^+ s+ `2 e9 K I 16.2.7 Colorfastness to atmospheric contaminants/耐空气污染色牢度 1683 d4 z& n0 O5 u' p7 B
Questions/思考题 168
8 l3 j. K, E2 y5 A Chapter 17 Fabric Flammability/织物可燃性 169: P2 n+ ~% d Z6 u9 |: z
17.1 Flammability standards/可燃性标准 169
: S+ |: W; _7 y+ `( a9 a 17.2 Properties affecting flammability/影响可燃性的因素 169' O8 T9 m: Z" K% D: k
17.3 Flammability testing/可燃性测试 171
( \# M5 p* s* ~: G 17.3.1 Forty-five degree angle test/45°燃烧测试法 171 N4 E& k1 e! G* Q7 `/ `
17.3.2 Vertical flame tests/垂直燃烧测试法 172( Y% C. N+ a& O
17.3.3 Carpet testing/地毯测试 172
# }; R3 r3 K6 P- } U( Y: n/ [7 F% ^ 17.3.4 Cigarette tests/卷烟点燃测试 172
1 C7 s0 r* z2 p4 |7 m 17.3.5 Other standard flammability tests/其他可燃性测试 173
% \# J- F: {. T/ { Questions/思考题 173
4 x4 e- n0 X2 C* T* d" d0 I! K Chapter 18 Comfort of Textiles/纺织品舒适性 174; f( S( v4 C0 E% X/ c% O
18.1 Physical phenomena affecting thermal comfort/影响热舒适性能的物理现象 174
2 S% o Q, H) B ? 18.1.1 Heat transfer/热传递 174# F( x. }3 h! m$ |4 X
18.1.2 Moisture transfer/湿传递 175* m- y7 n8 h5 n) Q
18.1.3 Water resistance/抗水性 175
9 E! l( B. {, P 18.1.4 Air transfer/透气性 176
1 Q) q" [7 v* K- Q 18.1.5 Porosity and cover factor/多孔性和覆盖系数 176
# x1 Y/ L/ W# {1 E6 ^' a) z 18.1.6 Electrostatic propensity/静电 177
" m/ c& V' j; ]. b ~ 18.2 Evaluations of textile properties related to comfort/与舒适性相关的纺织品性能评价 177' C/ l% o Q# a U5 V
18.2.1 Heat transfer/热传递 178& x! ?7 l5 J3 B& o9 {
18.2.2 Moisture properties/湿传递性能 179. S: t {. v/ o/ w& L" D
18.2.3 Air permeability/透气性 179
6 H" x4 j: j6 @9 v 18.2.4 Porosity/孔隙率 180
. Y, {# Z+ X* h3 K 18.2.5 Electrostatic tests/静电测试 180, Q! j, s1 _" h9 h% x
Questions/思考题 180
7 l% p" J5 c/ i, E/ a6 J: uAppendix/附录 181
' T9 z. e+ \9 Y* ` AATCC:AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS/美国纺织化学家与染色家协会 181, m/ r, y* s( Z4 W* B
ASTM:AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR TESTING AND MATERIALS/美国材料试验学会 184
0 M! B' g" B$ bVocabulary/词汇表 189: t Q. q* Q$ m: j
References/参考文献 197/ o, N& y9 C$ E d p
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