
纺织材料学(双语教材),刘妍,熊磊,PDF。普通高等教育“十一五”国家级规划教材(本科),纺织工程专业双语教材,电子目录,14M。( W# \6 `8 w# m2 K
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内容提要# F6 a3 B& u8 m1 S0 _ W m, Z! }8 r
本书讨论了纤维、纱线与织物(包括机织物、针织物及非织造布)的结构、机械性能、物理性能及使用性能。涉及的纤维势括天然纤维(如棉、毛、麻、丝等)、传统化学纤维及新型化学纤维。本书同时介绍了纤维、纱线和织物的各种标准测试方法(包括国际上常用的ASTM, AATCC及GB等方法),并讨论了与各种测试方法有关的测试原理及对测试结果的影响因素。
. a9 ]7 v, h0 B& _" w( \3 E本书可供高等纺织院校纺织、服装相关专业的本科生及研究生作为《纺织材料学》的双语教材或专业英语教材,也可供其他专业师生、纺织贸易专业人员和科研及生产单位的技术人员参考。
' ?3 P$ {$ {1 n目录5 i$ C8 i- L' G# }9 W
Part Ⅰ An Introduction to Textiles/纺织入门 18
- |# n3 b& t7 h/ f, g9 t+ { Chapter 1 Introduction/介绍 18
8 p8 b& k( b B3 |0 V* Y4 k 1.1 ASTM Standard Terminology Relating to Textiles/ASTM纺织标准术语 18
2 k) R9 ]9 [. F& ? 1.2 Fiber history/纤维历史 26
+ d, N9 i+ n/ {! X! U* ]- N 1.2.1 Natural fibers/天然纤维 266 {. M. W* V* [; k b) D% S
1.2.2 Man-made fibers/化学纤维 27
: Y/ p/ g- l4 `0 B Questions/思考题 30! i, Z& G4 J7 f% W- a
Part Ⅱ Textile Fibers/纺织纤维 326 H; Q7 p5 C" r* ^0 ]
Chapter 2 Natural Cellulosic Fibers/天然纤维素纤维 32
! f: g) I$ T0 Y! t' G' R# D 2.1 Cotton/棉 33
' i# \8 d2 P& K. o- u 2.1.1 Nature of cotton/棉花的种类 331 o) L5 P3 j* T; Q4 {. M
2.1.2 Classification/分类 34
0 B U K" i* S( f 2.1.3 Growth and structure of cotton/棉纤维的生长与结构 34
8 a) t# m/ R3 I- e7 V 2.1.4 Maturity/成熟度 36
0 O( R4 v) G& b# c* ]1 F 2.1.5 Cotton properties/棉纤维的性能 38
( R: N% k+ R4 T% a' d; B; | 2.1.6 Cotton classification/棉花分级 397 t0 o/ R& T% s( L ~+ I+ M
2.2 Bast fibers/韧皮纤维 40+ x( Z: e% q$ L; t6 T
2.2.1 Flax (linen)/亚麻,亚麻织物 41
! D& C2 o' n% e0 R/ P! |- _ 2.2.2 Ramie/苎麻 43
, w; R( \0 ?0 g) [ 2.2.3 Hemp/汉麻 44# s; t" P1 d$ T6 `3 c. |
2.2.4 Jute/黄麻 44
/ M. _* G7 c1 |+ W: C9 Z Questions/思考题 45. `( O9 V3 [) P+ J- V/ S/ G7 `- }6 t$ f
Chapter 3 Natural Protein Fibers/天然蛋白质纤维 46 P E2 B* s( ^; W
3.1 Wool/绵羊毛 46
6 C7 H) g9 a4 ]3 d3 O8 v1 a! ? 3.1.1 Wool production and history/羊毛生产和历史 46
( D U, [! ]9 A 3.1.2 Wool grading/羊毛分级 47& o( j9 ]" V1 b7 v; I7 B) r
3.1.3 Wool structure/羊毛结构 479 I. k" e B2 u: w3 F
3.1.4 Wool properties/羊毛性能 489 h/ {* x: X8 j& V' k; }6 c6 y
3.2 Specialty animal fibers/特种动物毛 51 k! M/ ~7 y2 G3 S0 J7 m6 s
3.3 Silk/丝 52. [' i* b. d! e2 W5 V2 S% Z/ ^6 b
Questions/思考题 54( R" E5 [& j& i/ f, B
Chapter 4 Man-made Fibers/化学纤维 55* I, Q: ?* |8 A0 g1 H2 f
4.1 Manufacturing processing of fiber/纤维生产工艺 55
5 a3 p; T, r' x$ d 4.1.1 Wet spinning/湿法纺丝 56
1 Q5 B# F. n5 R" x6 |+ o, s 4.1.2 Dry spinning/干法纺丝 562 t' f6 y7 [6 o
4.1.3 Melt spinning/熔体法纺丝 56
. |9 h2 H, J# ~( I) S: ~ 4.1.4 Gel spinning/凝胶纺丝 57
6 j% X* P0 C! Q0 W 4.2 Regenerated fibers/再生纤维 577 |, t" M1 ]& h% J# O- J- O
4.2.1 Acetate/醋酯纤维 57
" X) |' Q$ v7 E/ R 4.2.2 Triacetate/三醋酯纤维 59
- _8 v4 [; A( @ 4.2.3 Viscose fibers/粘胶纤维 593 s' Q4 `$ Y# ]5 ]$ g. l8 T
4.3 Synthetic fibers/合成纤维 600 f& b, @, O! X1 u
4.3.1 Acrylic/腈纶 60
9 D' y$ H9 E0 R- F 4.3.2 Modacrylic/改性腈纶 61& x" N( Q; r5 U+ r9 ?( @
4.3.3 Nylon/锦纶 61
. J8 Y+ L+ P& w. [6 G 4.3.4 Polyester/涤纶 62
+ M- B, c2 S% S6 Z 4.3.5 PBI/聚苯并咪唑纤维 630 {5 ^6 r) f! t: R* e3 O" q
4.3.6 Vinal/聚乙烯醇纤维 63
& d9 x4 p+ F1 ~% L! w 4.3.7 Olefin/聚烯烃纤维 63+ z9 c: K; ` w' l7 [# Y1 P
4.3.8 Aramid/芳纶 646 N0 ]: |: q& p* U9 {$ s
4.3.9 Lycra/莱卡 645 R% m. [/ W, x3 p& L6 n7 ?3 L
4.4 Other man-made fibers/其他化学纤维 668 s" [0 c3 {# R2 j" j% x ?
4.4.1 Glass/玻璃纤维 66
$ L9 ^$ T: F# a 4.4.2 Metallic/金属纤维 67 f# T" h0 m1 ^" F9 l( f
Questions/思考题 67
& k J6 h$ }) Y! Q Chapter 5 New Fibers/新型纤维 68
+ z/ ?9 d+ ?6 D9 D/ N8 W 5.1 Carbon fibers/碳纤维 688 E# w; \5 c% c
5.2 Fluorocarbon/氟碳纤维 68$ K! R5 [7 ^' j5 F
5.3 Lyocell fibers(Tencel)/莱塞尔纤维 68. `; G$ _# o" X% I8 F. Z
5.4 High-wet-modulus fibers/高湿模量纤维 69
: a. J5 o0 ~- \' \" j 5.4.1 Modal fibers/莫代尔纤维 69
; r/ `5 D1 J0 k4 Y O5 e5 h$ P 5.4.2 Richcel/丽赛纤维 70+ `9 o' x$ x ?- t: g" v
5.5 Soybean protein composite fibers/大豆蛋白复合纤维 703 T+ t; S4 j& t J) a5 b
5.6 PLA fiber/聚左旋乳酸纤维 71
8 h0 V9 E. d$ A 5.7 Heterogenous fibers/复合纤维 71* \3 B8 `" f5 J" y. y2 f4 }' h
5.7.1 Bicomponent or multicomponent/双组分或多组分 728 W* b/ X A' T' d/ S1 p1 y4 z# s
5.7.2 Biconstituent or multiconstituent/双成分或多成分 73
% _$ C- I' T( K4 W 5.7.3 Matrix or matrix-fibril/基质型纤维 73
3 a) x5 T7 ^" \" p1 y/ B 5.8 Differential fibers/差别化纤维 749 C% f/ Y; `* |
5.9 Functional fibers/功能性纤维 74& E: _9 A# J3 b M
5.10 High performance fibers/高性能纤维 74
, d I! K; d: k Questions/思考题 74
+ x( y0 u' }7 o8 s7 W Chapter 6 The Property of Absorbing Moisture/吸湿性 75. h3 S7 s' |: X$ g
6.1 Orientation and crystallization/取向与结晶 755 k* T8 _- E0 K' r! f M
6.2 Moisture sorption/吸湿性 75
6 v) H9 R& A+ Q 6.2.1 Regain and moisture content/回潮率与含水率 75
/ c& O$ u4 O" d) h1 J/ }. k3 L5 O# F 6.2.2 Relation between regain and relative humidity/回潮率与相对湿度的关系 75% I% X* Q/ g9 r9 I/ r# J
6.2.3 Comparison of various materials/不同材料吸湿性的对比 76
7 q A' [6 ]+ S( y! Q" x 6.2.4 Theories of moisture sorption/吸湿理论 78
5 }2 [# h* G1 g+ J: K Questions/思考题 80
2 z9 c% C$ u6 P* J5 B. H Chapter 7 Other Physical Properties of Textile Fibers/纤维的其他物理性能 813 g/ r% D7 O: N
7.1 Electronic properties/电学性能 81
: ^! _% q+ D( P" k( B1 T( x+ h 7.1.1 Definitions/定义 81 @0 r. o7 p: t# @/ P
7.2 Optical properties/光学性能 821 t2 b( z' a. V
7.3 Thermal properties/热学性能 83
5 L3 U1 Z9 a( I9 z 7.3.1 Thermal parameters/热力学参数 83* d X+ u/ V! \* F8 F
7.3.2 A comparison of temperature effects/温度效应比较 83
9 B! s) k# j# w }* y( i Questions/思考题 832 m1 k3 G6 A: e1 e+ i% D
Part Ⅲ Textile Yarns/纺织纱线 84* r+ F% {3 x9 p6 z+ l( Y
Chapter 8 Yarn Processing and Construction/纱线制造与结构 84
( C# [* g4 P& g0 K4 l 8.1 Spun yarns/短纤纱 85" Z7 v. e1 u6 z% Z0 k7 O
8.2 Filament yarns/长丝纱 85
7 {8 }" @; [7 J3 w) Z9 k 8.3 Methods of yarn processing/纺纱方法 85% I) N. F/ I7 y
8.3.1 Ring-spinning/环锭纺 86
& Z0 X/ p, \8 Y 8.3.2 New methods of yarn processing/新型纺纱方法 86- T, K% Z9 G A9 y1 Q
8.4 Single and ply yarns/单纱和股线 89
( E9 j! E: N" c* ~8 x 8.5 Special types of yarn/特种纱线 90
) F: i9 R9 l& M- z$ {2 d 8.5.1 Fancy yarns/花式纱 90! ~: w5 A9 C- Q3 P/ G B
8.5.2 Stretch yarns/弹力纱 91
8 o1 c# ?0 m! R1 @; i# I( p' t 8.5.3 Textured yarns 变形纱线 91- ^/ |# i1 x# i0 Z
8.6 Blends and mixtures yarns/纱线混纺与混用 92. s" w8 p0 c* G/ y" c
Questions/思考题 93
) @. t9 E' |; |5 k8 E Chapter 9 Yarn Properties/纱线性能 94
3 a/ e, ?1 g8 B4 F* @3 k: k# u% v 9.1 Yarn number/纱线细度 94
" G+ `( {7 c8 b9 Z 9.1.1 Denier system/旦数 94
6 F! r- c, R: [" S o$ _2 K9 d D 9.1.2 Yarn count system/纱线英制支数 94( R: \) ]0 c i1 j
9.1.3 Tex system/线密度 953 G8 r8 B; E8 |) S" m
9.1.4 Metric numbering system/公制支数 95
" ?* v- U+ C+ m2 S) {! H 9.1.5 Conversion in different systems/不同系统之间的换算 95
$ P$ U% t! v/ j! U: b" }; R 9.2 Ply yarn counts and singles equivalent/股线支数与单纱支数 950 G; p" a" `! Z/ w% l' x( N
9.3 Yarn twist/纱线捻度 96
6 m$ b6 w" ?4 {6 N% g 9.4 Yarn hairiness/纱线毛羽 97* O5 E/ l! I0 ^$ v9 w
9.4.1 Hairiness test method/毛羽测试方法 98
& L2 ]8 ?3 t6 w0 G: H) t 9.4.2 Factors affecting hairiness/影响毛羽的因素 98
& u4 Z( A7 w+ i" f+ ?, }! n 9.5 Yarn unevenness/纱线不匀 99: Z2 ?" c1 H# h; _% w' l
9.5.1 Test of yarn unevenness/纱线不匀的测试 99( a( b2 r% |7 T+ Z( L
9.5.2 Reasons for yarn unevenness/纱线不匀的原因 100
7 ~0 O& U6 Q: M0 g' M 9.6 Classification of yarn quality/纱线质量分析 100
% s8 ~! ~( ]6 n3 j4 g Questions/思考题 100. I9 u: ^8 t* Q7 O7 F- N3 c
Part Ⅳ Textile Fabrics/织物 102
' q U& a: h7 F0 L Chapter 10 Woven Fabrics/机织物 1023 l* V: C' f! r7 O
10.1 Making woven fabrics/织制机织物 102
9 z* T! F" ?% C5 s/ N, @' U) x5 A 10.1.1 The loom/织机 102& {9 ~7 ]% J, C
10.1.2 Loom type/织机类型 104
* y! q" o. g1 s3 _. D+ F 10.1.3 Loom motions/织机运动 104
3 H, z) R0 M: X$ H6 M+ U 10.1.4 Electronics in weaving/电子技术在织机中的应用 105
. Q k* B2 C; z8 O- \5 C 10.1.5 The selvage/布边 1059 ^/ a5 o- d1 d! p* d7 h
10.2 Warp yarns and filling yarns/经纱和纬纱 105
0 z0 y; i8 b2 T$ Z 10.2.1 Identification/鉴别 1067 c9 l" T( Z" v# V) F, y2 ]
10.3 Face and back/正面与反面 106
. {* @. K! h5 R- j3 g9 _ h: o$ M5 I 10.3.1 Reasons for differenee/存在差异的原因 107* j0 W& W) F0 [: `, u. r+ M' }/ }% h
10.3.2 Caution/应用的要点 107. H3 v* P% ~" L" O& `( F
10.4 Top and bottom/顶端和底端 1072 R# K: C& w; X# @5 S1 N y
10.4.1 Reasons for difference/存在差异的原因 107. n* l5 M' }. Y) k B
10.5 Weave floats/组织浮线 108) x) ?. _, h6 A# u
10.6 Basic weaves/基本组织 108 x+ f/ x+ F. X* C; U
10.6.1 Plain weave/平纹组织 108
@5 h4 P. x" ?; f. L3 x4 W& X! z 10.6.2 Twill weave/斜纹组织 109& z* r1 Z i* D' I( g [3 V
10.6.3 Satin weave/缎纹组织 111
5 q d: P8 U6 c6 w/ N' \ 10.7 Fabric performance and characteristics/织物性能和参数 1124 f) x* P X; U" s( R
10.7.1 Fabric width/幅宽 1128 t( f& \( q9 @0 }, {. I
10.7.2 Fabric weight/织物重量 112
; b+ \7 ~; B9 Q1 Y, T4 V7 i+ m; B 10.7.3 Fabric thickness/织物厚度 113! T( p5 R4 w* H: ^4 Q: b8 d8 P
10.7.4 Fabric density/织物密度 113
) Y2 g l% e4 R# l. n7 v 10.7.5 Fabric count/织物经纬密度 113
! D) {6 f+ e! z( ~ 10.7.6 Fabric defects/织物疵点 113
) V: ~0 D8 `0 f% K" C; c Questions/思考题 113- e9 D8 [+ e* u7 K3 k8 }7 k( H0 u
Chapter 11 Knitted Fabrics/针织物 114 t* w3 J& A( s& z! ~4 u
11.1 Making of knitted fabric/针织物形成 114
& |% U2 b$ Q7 M* Z4 f- K 11.1.1 The forming of knitted stitches/线圈的形成 1147 q# T$ k0 T8 F3 {& ?' ~+ v( E
11.1.2 Types of knitted stitches/线圈的种类 1169 T. j% `5 s: I7 y- T
11.2 Weft knits/纬编针织物 117
; J7 A4 i( \1 T7 x1 J7 u7 e- |* }( ] 11.2.1 Jersey knit fabric/纬平针织物 117' C4 _. G" S6 e, s7 a. n
11.2.2 Rib knit fabric/罗纹针织物 118
F0 j6 h& Z" q$ y) f 11.2.3 Purl knit fabric/双反面针织物 1192 o2 Z4 o/ b! B9 I% x4 D- Y
11.2.4 Double knits/双面针织物 120' g, F1 T6 k7 C6 j
11.2.5 Full-fashioned knits/全成形针织物 120: A, i& F( F9 v& H$ v7 H8 `
11.3 Warp knits/经编针织物 121# e0 _; G) b3 ~2 O+ w: s: M$ U# ^+ ] ?
11.3.1 Tricot fabrics/特里科经编针织物 121. I# y* N# Z, z6 _+ E' r( \' v1 \ N4 e
11.3.2 Raschel fabrics/拉舍尔经编针织物 122
( l$ d: C4 ~+ j9 I" ]3 s 11.4 Performance and characteristics/性能和参数 122% F- N- @5 y1 f
Questions/思考题 1235 o4 T% W F6 P1 ^8 Z
Chapter 12 Nonwoven Fabrics/非织造布 124
; d7 P, X; ], e5 ` 12.1 Introduction/导论 124* u/ G. R& ^& h# I# j- Q
12.2 Manufacturing methods/生产方法 1251 G# y5 ^1 V6 m. v3 [
12.2.1 Dry laid system/干法成网 1255 \- g1 H: [0 N, f
12.2.2 Wet laid system/湿法成网 125* G% e7 f; _7 W
12.2.3 Polymer laid system/聚合物挤压法 125; x# ~+ M! O( j. A3 ^
12.3 Various nonwovens/各种非织造布 125
* V0 e1 n% T# U7 d4 Q6 P* t 12.3.1 Needle punched nonwovens/针刺法非织造布 125
5 E7 I; d9 ?5 M) W& F% r! S5 p 12.3.2 Bonded web nonwovens/黏合法非织造布 126- r3 U* n; {2 w) k( ^6 T2 P9 L
12.3.3 Spunlaced nonwovens/射流喷网法非织造布 127/ b, y4 A; r+ s% X
12.3.4 Spunbonded nonwovens/纺粘法非织造布 1287 A" s. W/ S7 f, [
12.3.5 Melt-blown nonwovens/熔喷法非织造布 129
3 }4 N: L1 T5 B* w# P. B- d6 H Questions/思考题 129
, b6 {( L% ?6 D q* n! }5 Q+ p' i3 T7 nPart Ⅴ Textile Testing/纺织品测试 1302 Q% f5 w0 u/ ^6 d5 a8 K
Chapter 13 General Test Methods/常规测试方法 130
- k% {$ U9 f$ j |( v5 ^9 d8 J& `5 q% b 13.1 General fiber tests/纤维常规测试 130
2 i0 W- ~' m. C) L& W% T5 W. T 13.1.1 Fiber identification/纤维鉴别 1301 A, R! K, O3 c0 L; s0 t$ }
13.1.2 Fiber length/纤维长度 134, O" c$ B& {. w- R! c) ` Y8 O8 n
13.1.3 Fiber fineness or linear density/纤维细度或线密度 135
3 \( Y. I+ k J9 [1 R4 Q3 ^ 13.1.4 Cross-sectional shape/截面形状 135
1 h; k7 h5 U7 \! [' C e( q 13.1.5 Crimp/卷曲 135' c* Q6 v# k+ b% @$ B( K* W' V- O
13.1.6 Regain/回潮率 136
0 ^; I# ?2 D4 _) y* p 13.1.7 Mechanical properties/机械性能 136) q" Z7 `+ x9 m4 [4 D
13.1.8 Chemical characteristics/化学性能 1362 B O+ H9 g/ ]# F' u8 E* M
13.1.9 Surface characteristics/表面性能 1360 `4 r B; m6 ^2 h& e9 `5 E- I
13.1.10 Density and specific gravity/密度和相对密度 137
9 t; J7 { k! d& p2 \ 13.2 Special tests for natural fibers/天然纤维的测试 137
4 U2 G' n# X; w2 H% B 13.2.1 Tests for cotton/棉纤维测试 137, s* d! K6 c, [/ Y3 i1 j
13.2.2 Tests for wool/毛纤维测试 139
, e5 l d1 N% c ?4 w8 F 13.3 Testing of tensile properties/拉伸性能测试 140
" T7 i( x2 d: X" ] 13.3.1 Description of tensile proprieties/拉伸性能的描述 141: Z; j* D) s, D* f
13.3.2 Fiber and yarn tensile testing/纤维和纱线拉伸性能的测试 1464 C" R( X/ y [& x6 @- d
13.3.3 Fabric tensile testing/织物拉伸性能测试方法 147
0 ]! T: o2 T# A# F7 D" S Questions/思考题 149
7 e- o! |! Y- x( G) q4 c# c Chapter 14 Fabric Abrasion and Pilling/织物磨损与起球 1504 L: K) f' j& l, w$ `
14.1 Types of abrasion/磨损的类型 1500 N+ I% ?; |5 j4 L! p
14.1.1 Abrasion between fabrics/织物间的磨损 150
& K3 d8 J$ _0 ~8 V9 M9 P5 Y 14.1.2 Abrasion between fabric and a nontextile surface/织物与非纤维制品表面磨损 150
% Y7 e2 b, I3 e' F; M7 K2 K 14.1.3 Abrasion within fabric/织物内部磨损 151
/ \; t5 f" k( q' T 14.1.4 Abrasion by foreign materials within the fabric/与织物内部其他材料的磨损 151
* M& d; ~. K$ D( h 14.2 Factors affecting fabric abrasion resistance/影响耐磨性能的因素 1518 A& C0 s5 N4 `+ E6 S
14.2.1 Fabric properties/织物性能 151
! p& n1 r" u7 i+ k$ c1 S; K 14.2.2 Other factors/其他因素 153
) x% ?$ P, u# U4 \$ h 14.3 Abrasion testing/磨损测试 154
1 d w! ?8 G T# e/ J 14.3.1 Visual comparison with an unabraded specimen/与未磨损样品视觉对比 154
$ x% w w1 S2 q8 B4 _1 j 14.3.2 Number of cycles to produce a hole/产生磨损破洞需要的摩擦圈数 154& T H8 Z4 x2 s/ j3 [5 ]
14.3.3 Change in a physical property/物理性能的变化 154
h, f7 ^" |1 A4 D6 V. u 14.3.4 Microscopic examination/显微镜观测 155
9 f) o! Z4 k2 @3 Z' O7 T 14.4 Aesthetics of abrasion and wear/穿着和磨损对美感的影响 155
* ~7 s0 f2 p+ C+ m 14.4.1 Color changes caused by abrasion/磨损引起的颜色变化 155/ w; ]$ t- q# x
14.4.2 Pilling/起球 156
! B3 y2 O* K* K3 Q, a: `: m$ {0 y Questions/思考题 157- ]1 K( {5 s" }1 V3 m& R
Chapter 15 Fabric Hand and Drape/织物手感与悬垂 158' L8 s& u1 W; s2 R5 C
15.1 Fabric hand/织物手感 1583 ^) i; m1 s& G* @0 |. Z8 y
15.2 Fabric drape/织物悬垂 159- z/ f G8 x8 X
15.3 Measurement of hand and drape/手感与悬垂的评价 161' M% w! h" K% F8 V- v6 ]9 R
15.3.1 Subjective evaluation/主观评定法 161
5 Z& B! J. d6 y3 g' t; y8 Y9 c$ @ 15.3.2 Quantitative measurement/定量评定法 162
# V' D0 H; |: l2 O( ` 15.3.3 Kawabata evaluation system/KES评定法 163% W6 V' S& B: @7 v* [) e. `
Questions/思考题 1636 ^; u h. {, ^) L4 g8 C
Chapter 16 Fabric Colorfastness/织物染色牢度 164
( A$ U+ q$ Q) L8 s1 v! M( T 16.1 Evaluation of color and colorfastness/颜色和染色牢度评定方法 164- \- _3 q. _' Z* n5 G. V) G6 _, x8 |
16.2 Colorfastness tests/染色牢度测试 164& H# v, S" v" }) B+ b7 [9 D7 |5 s; o
16.2.1 Colorfastness to crocking/耐摩擦色牢度 164
9 Y/ F6 G3 n l5 h 16.2.2 Colorfastness to laundering and bleaching/耐洗涤和耐漂白色牢 165% ^. j7 [7 ^% Q9 I M9 ~7 ?
16.2.3 Colorfastness to drycleaning/耐干洗色牢度 1665 w& F# W* b8 W! R; P! l
16.2.4 Colorfastness to perspiration/耐汗渍色牢度 166
& W5 O9 \5 g; v1 J3 I& F 16.2.5 Colorfastness to water/耐水浸色牢度 1668 Q5 {0 ^( o/ h
16.2.6 Colorfastness to light/耐光照色牢度 167
$ b( N" C' M" ~, X: s, i7 G 16.2.7 Colorfastness to atmospheric contaminants/耐空气污染色牢度 1681 f7 H8 O% v8 H: n
Questions/思考题 168
. V9 _3 m0 ~( ^5 C% a Chapter 17 Fabric Flammability/织物可燃性 169. S# R7 j# U. l! S7 Y' I
17.1 Flammability standards/可燃性标准 1698 ]/ L" s- Z! Q1 g9 ]9 A
17.2 Properties affecting flammability/影响可燃性的因素 169
& y/ M2 X6 h; M8 v, v 17.3 Flammability testing/可燃性测试 171
. t. M) [, N8 F 17.3.1 Forty-five degree angle test/45°燃烧测试法 171
( C( s' _) w0 @ 17.3.2 Vertical flame tests/垂直燃烧测试法 172
/ K5 H. e8 I$ Q, h% ^ 17.3.3 Carpet testing/地毯测试 172
1 [2 \- a$ @- q7 j1 q8 b4 j! | 17.3.4 Cigarette tests/卷烟点燃测试 172 r: l/ F# [8 B* L9 P' w( B
17.3.5 Other standard flammability tests/其他可燃性测试 173
9 B7 |! i# B! y Questions/思考题 173
# r8 l k8 G4 ~- }* h! | Chapter 18 Comfort of Textiles/纺织品舒适性 174 y n& {) k1 Y8 Q0 R6 f
18.1 Physical phenomena affecting thermal comfort/影响热舒适性能的物理现象 174
z4 m5 h+ {, O; I9 W, a 18.1.1 Heat transfer/热传递 174/ ~ [5 ^( x5 S9 h( W
18.1.2 Moisture transfer/湿传递 175* }8 B# j& L% |1 T
18.1.3 Water resistance/抗水性 175
- {. T$ q8 t* I 18.1.4 Air transfer/透气性 176
8 A7 U1 z% h( V9 [ 18.1.5 Porosity and cover factor/多孔性和覆盖系数 176' C; Y: R3 U) E; o2 `2 r
18.1.6 Electrostatic propensity/静电 177
3 w2 s( G+ g$ Z- Z* E! m 18.2 Evaluations of textile properties related to comfort/与舒适性相关的纺织品性能评价 177) T% ]- o" l9 M3 l2 o7 ~
18.2.1 Heat transfer/热传递 1788 Q i5 |% ]7 V2 @, X
18.2.2 Moisture properties/湿传递性能 179% Z# [. k7 t$ `' i3 W" c
18.2.3 Air permeability/透气性 179
$ p' z2 [( Z1 `9 S# X! N3 ?1 q 18.2.4 Porosity/孔隙率 180; l9 q/ ~8 M% p3 A r
18.2.5 Electrostatic tests/静电测试 180- W/ a# m: C. }, ]: t
Questions/思考题 180
! z, z4 @* u8 b% ^; r4 YAppendix/附录 181
8 Q3 m1 ]; Z& P* G' W AATCC:AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS/美国纺织化学家与染色家协会 181% l( n1 M" ? @, ~: s. E7 R% L
ASTM:AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR TESTING AND MATERIALS/美国材料试验学会 184
. W6 [1 p" I( \- OVocabulary/词汇表 189' {% k; U- d* E ~' m2 Y5 J W
References/参考文献 1973 V: I+ P0 k! a3 H
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