
纺织材料学(双语教材),刘妍,熊磊,PDF。普通高等教育“十一五”国家级规划教材(本科),纺织工程专业双语教材,电子目录,14M。
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- k% J) d7 G; i3 m! Z+ d8 O1 X2 K1 V内容提要
" ^( j; l4 i7 W y- A* R6 |& T7 n本书讨论了纤维、纱线与织物(包括机织物、针织物及非织造布)的结构、机械性能、物理性能及使用性能。涉及的纤维势括天然纤维(如棉、毛、麻、丝等)、传统化学纤维及新型化学纤维。本书同时介绍了纤维、纱线和织物的各种标准测试方法(包括国际上常用的ASTM, AATCC及GB等方法),并讨论了与各种测试方法有关的测试原理及对测试结果的影响因素。& S) q4 s. a0 Y: f) U
本书可供高等纺织院校纺织、服装相关专业的本科生及研究生作为《纺织材料学》的双语教材或专业英语教材,也可供其他专业师生、纺织贸易专业人员和科研及生产单位的技术人员参考。
9 O! a3 }- b+ t/ h% Q目录( t; c" t! H9 T6 v E" {4 r& G
Part Ⅰ An Introduction to Textiles/纺织入门 186 n/ M' q- a' j- ~/ j1 @5 z) Y. h
Chapter 1 Introduction/介绍 18
' M: \! s: M) k5 Z& A) O5 O' O 1.1 ASTM Standard Terminology Relating to Textiles/ASTM纺织标准术语 18: O, o" T: C. }3 `0 m
1.2 Fiber history/纤维历史 262 q0 H3 N# z5 ^) r' s# p' Q
1.2.1 Natural fibers/天然纤维 265 y; m( z; E, R& _
1.2.2 Man-made fibers/化学纤维 27
; d4 C3 V" T: d6 @, a Questions/思考题 30
- e) B( Y8 L; v, OPart Ⅱ Textile Fibers/纺织纤维 32- }" Z2 H& H9 j9 z5 A, A9 G1 k* f i
Chapter 2 Natural Cellulosic Fibers/天然纤维素纤维 32! ]" p9 i" Q0 K" h- V
2.1 Cotton/棉 33
+ I3 c8 a. U6 X, j 2.1.1 Nature of cotton/棉花的种类 33
# N- Y. F. K8 X) q3 S: Z 2.1.2 Classification/分类 34& f. w2 R- W$ s& r( l( y1 I* e! o
2.1.3 Growth and structure of cotton/棉纤维的生长与结构 34
* H" H: Y2 u8 j; S, Y- d" T 2.1.4 Maturity/成熟度 368 q3 N1 P- S' ?* U& Z
2.1.5 Cotton properties/棉纤维的性能 388 a- y( t+ ~7 V3 m. y4 l
2.1.6 Cotton classification/棉花分级 39
5 j" M' {% y3 n. j' @: } 2.2 Bast fibers/韧皮纤维 401 d! _ [$ f! `& h
2.2.1 Flax (linen)/亚麻,亚麻织物 41
' u$ o6 `9 O8 A9 c3 n 2.2.2 Ramie/苎麻 434 r9 H2 ]6 T. Z$ s9 e
2.2.3 Hemp/汉麻 44+ c! N$ `6 W/ L+ m, \
2.2.4 Jute/黄麻 445 H6 Z( p/ e- W# S* B
Questions/思考题 45
' k; y9 K4 ~$ [$ G/ u% b Chapter 3 Natural Protein Fibers/天然蛋白质纤维 464 G/ |3 m2 s: w5 ~# L, M3 D
3.1 Wool/绵羊毛 46
7 o( ]* x) P7 k' c 3.1.1 Wool production and history/羊毛生产和历史 46! ]+ h6 ~4 V) u' O! g; i0 r2 a
3.1.2 Wool grading/羊毛分级 47" o' y7 k: R# [7 y) g" U% b' x) }( b
3.1.3 Wool structure/羊毛结构 471 d5 T5 M1 t. @$ {7 z
3.1.4 Wool properties/羊毛性能 48
+ }* A6 F( Z& S. i7 P+ \2 }) f 3.2 Specialty animal fibers/特种动物毛 51! |" z. l6 x! x) M- {
3.3 Silk/丝 52
: N/ W* `) m) Z7 Y" E/ y' `: u Questions/思考题 54
, E- @) V6 V; A7 u Chapter 4 Man-made Fibers/化学纤维 55# P }$ B# r) D$ G' O% }' ?* a/ B
4.1 Manufacturing processing of fiber/纤维生产工艺 55
0 j3 s# R0 a! I, h& N8 @ 4.1.1 Wet spinning/湿法纺丝 56
- v5 j& |6 G1 V4 f, _8 P0 I5 @ 4.1.2 Dry spinning/干法纺丝 56
! f5 f9 `8 V5 i! A$ v6 m0 f 4.1.3 Melt spinning/熔体法纺丝 568 W. C B) A7 q" F! S" @& f7 T$ ?( V3 i
4.1.4 Gel spinning/凝胶纺丝 571 b' Z5 g# h( R& I& t9 n' t
4.2 Regenerated fibers/再生纤维 57
1 I+ Y0 i; R T2 s' f 4.2.1 Acetate/醋酯纤维 573 X6 p* R! M) B
4.2.2 Triacetate/三醋酯纤维 59& M0 H8 j7 q( U
4.2.3 Viscose fibers/粘胶纤维 59# R, { N: J. R: H$ l5 h8 \7 N7 e
4.3 Synthetic fibers/合成纤维 60$ |. I/ \( k0 v/ R, B- z
4.3.1 Acrylic/腈纶 60
' i7 U4 D7 c' y' ?) c 4.3.2 Modacrylic/改性腈纶 61
* L; r t. f6 e 4.3.3 Nylon/锦纶 61
! _* c5 c @4 O2 K w# q 4.3.4 Polyester/涤纶 62
( t& _, n7 L7 q7 s) I 4.3.5 PBI/聚苯并咪唑纤维 63
8 v5 L$ i0 e# d& u% {5 W, e7 G 4.3.6 Vinal/聚乙烯醇纤维 635 i5 z. j' \0 f
4.3.7 Olefin/聚烯烃纤维 63! x" f$ e/ w% ?5 R/ d! ^4 `
4.3.8 Aramid/芳纶 64
& `/ W9 I0 N4 `: y" q3 d; _7 q 4.3.9 Lycra/莱卡 64
! h0 ?/ m) g( N5 X 4.4 Other man-made fibers/其他化学纤维 66$ \; |% R+ I5 s! @9 ^
4.4.1 Glass/玻璃纤维 66
8 Z: d8 T' v8 ~( r# e( t q$ S7 j/ L 4.4.2 Metallic/金属纤维 67
8 c% ^2 K# e4 q0 q. \ Questions/思考题 67
6 S+ g i* k5 O) o% e6 o; Q Chapter 5 New Fibers/新型纤维 684 [! p& p3 r" R9 Z* R# k' `3 |7 u
5.1 Carbon fibers/碳纤维 68( C. G$ {) `1 E
5.2 Fluorocarbon/氟碳纤维 688 L6 i# Q8 M7 j- ?
5.3 Lyocell fibers(Tencel)/莱塞尔纤维 68: D! Z i( h" }% O L0 U
5.4 High-wet-modulus fibers/高湿模量纤维 69
9 x$ Y+ o5 `- \1 ?5 P 5.4.1 Modal fibers/莫代尔纤维 69
. j3 {& W6 m/ i* K1 d 5.4.2 Richcel/丽赛纤维 70
0 f$ s. b3 j, Q7 P1 z8 i 5.5 Soybean protein composite fibers/大豆蛋白复合纤维 70/ \7 V! Z. b7 {; B( H# Q
5.6 PLA fiber/聚左旋乳酸纤维 71: R9 R/ I3 p6 Z! ?: T1 b
5.7 Heterogenous fibers/复合纤维 71( b. B. J5 \: U" O/ r) e
5.7.1 Bicomponent or multicomponent/双组分或多组分 72
, t: [1 D% z v9 l( u 5.7.2 Biconstituent or multiconstituent/双成分或多成分 730 i9 m9 `! B# w$ a) t
5.7.3 Matrix or matrix-fibril/基质型纤维 73
) \5 {- L: Y! {4 K, K: u8 ]! K 5.8 Differential fibers/差别化纤维 74
( N& b8 d- ~- z9 U 5.9 Functional fibers/功能性纤维 74 a" [8 ~* Q# P( H: c* u O$ c
5.10 High performance fibers/高性能纤维 74
+ s! E9 L; D" V L; o0 r7 \5 S3 | Questions/思考题 74- @" K3 t1 \5 { ^
Chapter 6 The Property of Absorbing Moisture/吸湿性 75
- c) z y; X* b' k9 h, T x9 @; U 6.1 Orientation and crystallization/取向与结晶 75
4 p% s6 ^% K8 ^1 L 6.2 Moisture sorption/吸湿性 75" \8 H5 e* D* }7 y) W7 F% D
6.2.1 Regain and moisture content/回潮率与含水率 75
9 T+ S) p5 ` A$ ^ 6.2.2 Relation between regain and relative humidity/回潮率与相对湿度的关系 75
2 t% l& I9 h# p+ }2 V" D 6.2.3 Comparison of various materials/不同材料吸湿性的对比 763 B. \' O- C1 U
6.2.4 Theories of moisture sorption/吸湿理论 78
4 K) n. K, n. F, U3 D3 q Questions/思考题 80% \! z: }9 a, c4 J6 i& E' o/ C
Chapter 7 Other Physical Properties of Textile Fibers/纤维的其他物理性能 81
( ^) @2 e0 L" z7 u" c 7.1 Electronic properties/电学性能 81: H) F1 F( {/ U2 ?
7.1.1 Definitions/定义 81
3 H/ M8 E4 Q9 j9 Z 7.2 Optical properties/光学性能 82
/ R* ]; F+ p# Z8 l$ S 7.3 Thermal properties/热学性能 83
3 g( S: y7 F- N 7.3.1 Thermal parameters/热力学参数 83
: @1 k/ q) g8 L: \8 e: F 7.3.2 A comparison of temperature effects/温度效应比较 83
' E0 \% K3 F7 F Questions/思考题 83- B" K+ n% W) \
Part Ⅲ Textile Yarns/纺织纱线 846 k3 a, p2 g6 F5 b
Chapter 8 Yarn Processing and Construction/纱线制造与结构 84
+ z0 ]* X$ s- q9 n6 d" \$ x- l5 y 8.1 Spun yarns/短纤纱 85
5 q3 L( U/ Y3 Q1 w2 y9 m# \; S* o 8.2 Filament yarns/长丝纱 85
$ Q8 V$ ]/ Q2 D. F9 u 8.3 Methods of yarn processing/纺纱方法 854 f {" O* q2 l
8.3.1 Ring-spinning/环锭纺 86
, A; `& B4 R& o$ G9 r 8.3.2 New methods of yarn processing/新型纺纱方法 86* S5 d( ~/ D q7 Z2 f" c2 O+ n
8.4 Single and ply yarns/单纱和股线 89
+ P3 ]! M0 |4 w4 t0 Y 8.5 Special types of yarn/特种纱线 90
) r8 ]; e! C2 t5 o 8.5.1 Fancy yarns/花式纱 90
9 n/ C+ c4 I- A+ z- t 8.5.2 Stretch yarns/弹力纱 91# |7 b8 \, ~) K1 _" o
8.5.3 Textured yarns 变形纱线 91
; U( N s6 x+ ^( N+ [4 T- G0 _ 8.6 Blends and mixtures yarns/纱线混纺与混用 92
8 _5 A& n( g: X1 p/ y Questions/思考题 93( x% G2 b w7 K% e
Chapter 9 Yarn Properties/纱线性能 94
$ M$ @6 {* A: R+ Z: j: p 9.1 Yarn number/纱线细度 94! B3 \7 x5 l8 O6 w* v
9.1.1 Denier system/旦数 94
3 N( T/ j, {% z 9.1.2 Yarn count system/纱线英制支数 94
; i) H- H9 U( W. {% e: S0 k2 s 9.1.3 Tex system/线密度 95
! H- n' [/ W. V% C/ V, Y 9.1.4 Metric numbering system/公制支数 95
_4 Q3 c9 V, N3 n( ] 9.1.5 Conversion in different systems/不同系统之间的换算 95& f x, A! ]% P' F% ?4 l
9.2 Ply yarn counts and singles equivalent/股线支数与单纱支数 95
6 P$ i% {1 K8 l* R* N/ i7 N z* M 9.3 Yarn twist/纱线捻度 96 m7 m2 O4 b1 ?0 r; z( P8 Z! {
9.4 Yarn hairiness/纱线毛羽 97, U# V* k! h& O2 ]
9.4.1 Hairiness test method/毛羽测试方法 98( R; q4 e& B5 ]" s
9.4.2 Factors affecting hairiness/影响毛羽的因素 982 ~2 W' w; G7 s, X' F! [
9.5 Yarn unevenness/纱线不匀 999 V6 N; n! X# u' O9 C
9.5.1 Test of yarn unevenness/纱线不匀的测试 997 ]! i7 p8 a, u0 C
9.5.2 Reasons for yarn unevenness/纱线不匀的原因 100
% A/ o/ @/ H( K& Q, V 9.6 Classification of yarn quality/纱线质量分析 100' z6 Z; y/ Z# y7 h/ R; e" n
Questions/思考题 1005 k/ i6 ^0 m, D
Part Ⅳ Textile Fabrics/织物 1028 a4 d. E+ t3 q, S+ G* L
Chapter 10 Woven Fabrics/机织物 1020 M$ V' k- c \
10.1 Making woven fabrics/织制机织物 102# n9 T) H g4 \( ~
10.1.1 The loom/织机 102/ `, T& H$ d* g3 z. _' T3 [& W
10.1.2 Loom type/织机类型 104- \% V+ r, F" B
10.1.3 Loom motions/织机运动 104
) C' A+ Y$ G$ C" @; x) Q 10.1.4 Electronics in weaving/电子技术在织机中的应用 105
- }+ L* k- D$ n" }7 s 10.1.5 The selvage/布边 105
" L# j8 E! _. q& [, G 10.2 Warp yarns and filling yarns/经纱和纬纱 105
. @% O- b2 x+ v4 S$ U+ `& @ 10.2.1 Identification/鉴别 106; l# y, o# z: p! `3 K
10.3 Face and back/正面与反面 1067 R/ e7 K; v5 g- t' p3 |; p; U7 R
10.3.1 Reasons for differenee/存在差异的原因 107
7 _% h7 U( D3 r8 ?: S; U 10.3.2 Caution/应用的要点 107
7 S0 i8 P& e6 ^2 l 10.4 Top and bottom/顶端和底端 107, ]" y7 |% A, x" C: P; F0 z
10.4.1 Reasons for difference/存在差异的原因 1073 X5 B: T6 Y1 ~
10.5 Weave floats/组织浮线 108
$ t0 S# k7 b* B; ?0 A 10.6 Basic weaves/基本组织 108+ e% y% e8 b4 X
10.6.1 Plain weave/平纹组织 108
# D( T/ J6 e' n! W. O& C* `. Q 10.6.2 Twill weave/斜纹组织 1090 }3 U8 x9 M3 ^+ Z/ q" z4 r
10.6.3 Satin weave/缎纹组织 111
L! j* M3 ^7 |3 G9 ~, b 10.7 Fabric performance and characteristics/织物性能和参数 112- |, T9 D2 g G+ A A
10.7.1 Fabric width/幅宽 1128 J- P9 e2 c4 B" c# {
10.7.2 Fabric weight/织物重量 112: d5 r5 b- F. v3 I. J
10.7.3 Fabric thickness/织物厚度 113
8 K. \/ y# |/ Q+ O1 m4 l) q 10.7.4 Fabric density/织物密度 113
* c" R1 `& `, ~& P3 N/ ?8 T 10.7.5 Fabric count/织物经纬密度 1131 A4 c1 i3 Y; _. i; \4 _
10.7.6 Fabric defects/织物疵点 113
% ^5 @" Z. b* A& K7 T" K. p Questions/思考题 113
# ?8 G. g$ i3 J$ ~: g$ b' ]$ { Chapter 11 Knitted Fabrics/针织物 1148 [; ^: C' \% n2 Y- d' X" a0 ]
11.1 Making of knitted fabric/针织物形成 114
, M0 I3 i1 L j3 G! R 11.1.1 The forming of knitted stitches/线圈的形成 114
* T- {8 d9 N# q0 Z5 i2 N& z. l 11.1.2 Types of knitted stitches/线圈的种类 116
0 r; J d v' _& y! [8 p2 a/ ] 11.2 Weft knits/纬编针织物 117: G7 t! T: w/ t- `/ ]' Q, K
11.2.1 Jersey knit fabric/纬平针织物 1177 S' K# l4 }# ]* A: ?
11.2.2 Rib knit fabric/罗纹针织物 118
) \9 }9 X$ j' h+ O 11.2.3 Purl knit fabric/双反面针织物 119& V$ g( k$ U! V- |! L: m
11.2.4 Double knits/双面针织物 120
' N F8 g7 v/ i( W0 d; E9 o 11.2.5 Full-fashioned knits/全成形针织物 120- z! U+ x2 X& ]0 D
11.3 Warp knits/经编针织物 1215 ~# E0 m6 B* s: i/ Q5 M
11.3.1 Tricot fabrics/特里科经编针织物 121
0 U" D" j: D& ~# ^2 w6 [ 11.3.2 Raschel fabrics/拉舍尔经编针织物 122
% [- g, d" x# ~ 11.4 Performance and characteristics/性能和参数 122, b/ f5 f4 R9 E2 h+ R) m+ y% |1 I
Questions/思考题 1237 {2 ]( Y X0 t2 V/ w9 H8 B
Chapter 12 Nonwoven Fabrics/非织造布 1247 ?/ x- J* X, b
12.1 Introduction/导论 124
% l1 z' [1 C9 n0 x4 f 12.2 Manufacturing methods/生产方法 1259 _( _: W5 G2 t2 u3 D7 u: m2 F
12.2.1 Dry laid system/干法成网 125
, T. j% K" \! D3 v' v1 q) H 12.2.2 Wet laid system/湿法成网 125
2 L5 c; l4 ^0 `1 ]1 ?! E 12.2.3 Polymer laid system/聚合物挤压法 125
# i- ~/ {. y! w. ^$ i @2 i 12.3 Various nonwovens/各种非织造布 125
) M* F5 V6 I X# h q4 a% |9 b 12.3.1 Needle punched nonwovens/针刺法非织造布 125$ j+ k& S, r% X0 ?. ?( m& V
12.3.2 Bonded web nonwovens/黏合法非织造布 126
) Z' L2 q) W7 K1 v( ^/ A0 h* n 12.3.3 Spunlaced nonwovens/射流喷网法非织造布 127* G- l; u% U, x3 E& J3 R
12.3.4 Spunbonded nonwovens/纺粘法非织造布 128- z9 S7 L4 q3 C5 t' r8 @/ d
12.3.5 Melt-blown nonwovens/熔喷法非织造布 1293 h5 V5 k6 [. n0 H, R
Questions/思考题 129# _; }8 q6 S" L* c7 r
Part Ⅴ Textile Testing/纺织品测试 130
% [3 u8 A* z5 Z) ] Chapter 13 General Test Methods/常规测试方法 130
0 m l, S2 Q2 x- W 13.1 General fiber tests/纤维常规测试 130
1 Z' ^ O# g9 T( A( ^ 13.1.1 Fiber identification/纤维鉴别 130
x" o7 O% F) K, I6 ~9 k 13.1.2 Fiber length/纤维长度 134
1 u8 F K: S( N5 |7 ]& @7 V 13.1.3 Fiber fineness or linear density/纤维细度或线密度 135
+ B! z* y" A8 L4 w, h- u- M 13.1.4 Cross-sectional shape/截面形状 1359 x6 p% ]% C7 \& X
13.1.5 Crimp/卷曲 135
; q1 W7 r6 ]4 A9 Z 13.1.6 Regain/回潮率 136
2 N" Z/ @' b& X: R1 P: ^2 O) w! h 13.1.7 Mechanical properties/机械性能 136
) u5 ] ^5 t% _1 n" T# C, o0 [ 13.1.8 Chemical characteristics/化学性能 136
. m7 T( x$ t( G 13.1.9 Surface characteristics/表面性能 1365 p2 ^* f7 E0 e) {1 Z8 |6 f
13.1.10 Density and specific gravity/密度和相对密度 137
$ N. |% b- A; A 13.2 Special tests for natural fibers/天然纤维的测试 1372 U+ q- d, E& c0 L
13.2.1 Tests for cotton/棉纤维测试 137
5 D6 J& z5 [! r! @: `- K8 j 13.2.2 Tests for wool/毛纤维测试 1391 ~" U# ]) v# p1 z+ I8 v; F
13.3 Testing of tensile properties/拉伸性能测试 140
6 S7 ?2 k1 _" k5 V0 b) p 13.3.1 Description of tensile proprieties/拉伸性能的描述 141
( g6 ~) s( a* u6 E/ \' C$ L6 f 13.3.2 Fiber and yarn tensile testing/纤维和纱线拉伸性能的测试 146
# V0 a/ f. b0 X; Y+ } 13.3.3 Fabric tensile testing/织物拉伸性能测试方法 147) ~( _9 d' s+ [8 t% V
Questions/思考题 149
' S- U; @4 P7 q" F3 k( o' X Chapter 14 Fabric Abrasion and Pilling/织物磨损与起球 1509 T2 f, k B$ {( n+ y: u" V
14.1 Types of abrasion/磨损的类型 150
8 `& t- M3 }0 M% H3 c% \9 z 14.1.1 Abrasion between fabrics/织物间的磨损 150& l8 J8 R: t5 N/ s
14.1.2 Abrasion between fabric and a nontextile surface/织物与非纤维制品表面磨损 1505 W- k2 {9 M$ X4 C" U, t
14.1.3 Abrasion within fabric/织物内部磨损 151& V% E$ |( Y. ^
14.1.4 Abrasion by foreign materials within the fabric/与织物内部其他材料的磨损 151
- o- z f& e5 [0 y0 m {6 H 14.2 Factors affecting fabric abrasion resistance/影响耐磨性能的因素 1510 q1 K/ @' J& y' c, P
14.2.1 Fabric properties/织物性能 151
1 a8 T: L" W V+ s6 O+ E+ B 14.2.2 Other factors/其他因素 1531 g5 M1 A; f& Q( D3 }! {: L$ c+ i0 `
14.3 Abrasion testing/磨损测试 154+ J m! p' S, ^6 R8 h+ _3 o% \& p
14.3.1 Visual comparison with an unabraded specimen/与未磨损样品视觉对比 154
7 @% `: P8 n+ e# O8 o0 _) j P7 \ 14.3.2 Number of cycles to produce a hole/产生磨损破洞需要的摩擦圈数 154/ b3 Y, a/ ^- K. y, E
14.3.3 Change in a physical property/物理性能的变化 1540 X- M/ |8 V2 `/ d0 n" j P6 R3 @
14.3.4 Microscopic examination/显微镜观测 155
" ~% c9 b$ u' w) Y9 S: S/ E 14.4 Aesthetics of abrasion and wear/穿着和磨损对美感的影响 155
9 ^( Z8 R, f3 d2 K+ E8 s5 f' o 14.4.1 Color changes caused by abrasion/磨损引起的颜色变化 155
. u; G% a3 ^/ W1 S. Y1 B. P 14.4.2 Pilling/起球 156
P& h# L7 j3 k Questions/思考题 157# g5 _" W% s4 E& w4 [
Chapter 15 Fabric Hand and Drape/织物手感与悬垂 1586 Q+ @2 ^8 _( f* x$ X v6 Z
15.1 Fabric hand/织物手感 158
: d2 W, c- c; p* c 15.2 Fabric drape/织物悬垂 159 |2 l/ G/ ^- s
15.3 Measurement of hand and drape/手感与悬垂的评价 161( {" e; T1 N( @3 Z& p8 p5 R5 n
15.3.1 Subjective evaluation/主观评定法 161
8 E( R! x, j; F7 j4 p8 p$ J+ @6 B 15.3.2 Quantitative measurement/定量评定法 1624 D' R) `: U! s; y5 L& c2 t
15.3.3 Kawabata evaluation system/KES评定法 163
- c+ k* u: W' B5 s Questions/思考题 163
M8 I6 N* f+ R. M. n; H V Chapter 16 Fabric Colorfastness/织物染色牢度 164
$ i) Z4 E1 E. J% {- r 16.1 Evaluation of color and colorfastness/颜色和染色牢度评定方法 164
- [* f' r2 x4 E/ G9 ~ 16.2 Colorfastness tests/染色牢度测试 164
9 R% h9 h& o+ C; r" g# U" T! Z. M# H( X 16.2.1 Colorfastness to crocking/耐摩擦色牢度 164
6 V- b8 P% @+ h3 s( Y 16.2.2 Colorfastness to laundering and bleaching/耐洗涤和耐漂白色牢 165
: X- c& Y; g& ?6 u4 u 16.2.3 Colorfastness to drycleaning/耐干洗色牢度 1663 i7 P! g* i6 k; t& H" V/ K
16.2.4 Colorfastness to perspiration/耐汗渍色牢度 166/ R! Y' ^5 @! C: `
16.2.5 Colorfastness to water/耐水浸色牢度 166
5 t. [) c" _' p' `. r& ^+ D- K) j 16.2.6 Colorfastness to light/耐光照色牢度 167' E6 b: Y9 b4 ]0 ^: n4 O4 q5 b
16.2.7 Colorfastness to atmospheric contaminants/耐空气污染色牢度 168
0 `0 G7 Y/ }8 B Questions/思考题 168+ q4 U+ H( f1 X9 y o/ n! |
Chapter 17 Fabric Flammability/织物可燃性 169
4 Z, n, k) M9 W! W w# Y 17.1 Flammability standards/可燃性标准 169
, e X, D$ s( g6 K6 q# N 17.2 Properties affecting flammability/影响可燃性的因素 1692 ^8 b1 n2 {# Q/ i/ P' U# u
17.3 Flammability testing/可燃性测试 171
& R" F/ c0 z& b& E 17.3.1 Forty-five degree angle test/45°燃烧测试法 1715 w$ s. S7 f* |1 X# {
17.3.2 Vertical flame tests/垂直燃烧测试法 172! Y6 x6 g% U5 ~! G* i9 r
17.3.3 Carpet testing/地毯测试 172- ?$ ^# Q; ~8 E# h6 V
17.3.4 Cigarette tests/卷烟点燃测试 172
9 R3 f* S/ }8 Q4 i+ P$ E X. V9 T8 A, Y 17.3.5 Other standard flammability tests/其他可燃性测试 173& M1 n4 V& ]1 `/ q
Questions/思考题 173
0 w2 A' T& d# V( ^+ @ Chapter 18 Comfort of Textiles/纺织品舒适性 174* b; d6 o! x7 e% j
18.1 Physical phenomena affecting thermal comfort/影响热舒适性能的物理现象 174
0 w) P* r# ]" @+ } 18.1.1 Heat transfer/热传递 174
' S+ u" {5 q4 |: C/ U# S 18.1.2 Moisture transfer/湿传递 175. Y |7 T' U* J [$ n
18.1.3 Water resistance/抗水性 175
0 L5 T6 i! `$ `1 P7 ], X( J 18.1.4 Air transfer/透气性 176
2 b" c; I( H# z) d5 n 18.1.5 Porosity and cover factor/多孔性和覆盖系数 1761 o0 l w) G, I, p) B
18.1.6 Electrostatic propensity/静电 177* E! \& T3 e3 O. {& f
18.2 Evaluations of textile properties related to comfort/与舒适性相关的纺织品性能评价 177
! \' i7 F$ I( W- i 18.2.1 Heat transfer/热传递 1789 {6 b5 Q4 `3 ?* s* v4 Z# h
18.2.2 Moisture properties/湿传递性能 179
! S% b6 B7 l, J1 n 18.2.3 Air permeability/透气性 179
; _3 V" D; f) M6 J3 F* E" G 18.2.4 Porosity/孔隙率 1804 f! }6 K% @& X4 [+ W) m
18.2.5 Electrostatic tests/静电测试 180
" y7 ?" d0 @. b8 ?0 M& @ m Questions/思考题 180
5 B |) p9 `" ]+ tAppendix/附录 181
( R/ T5 F; D) v7 B4 V+ {+ C( @ AATCC:AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS/美国纺织化学家与染色家协会 181! T0 m6 {: z! O% ]3 d
ASTM:AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR TESTING AND MATERIALS/美国材料试验学会 184! N: h$ T$ p0 Z
Vocabulary/词汇表 1894 d4 m: `- J" c# C) h
References/参考文献 197
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