
纺织材料学(双语教材),刘妍,熊磊,PDF。普通高等教育“十一五”国家级规划教材(本科),纺织工程专业双语教材,电子目录,14M。5 }* ^4 X9 h# i
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内容提要" l- ?" M: A# w4 i9 P" m# ?
本书讨论了纤维、纱线与织物(包括机织物、针织物及非织造布)的结构、机械性能、物理性能及使用性能。涉及的纤维势括天然纤维(如棉、毛、麻、丝等)、传统化学纤维及新型化学纤维。本书同时介绍了纤维、纱线和织物的各种标准测试方法(包括国际上常用的ASTM, AATCC及GB等方法),并讨论了与各种测试方法有关的测试原理及对测试结果的影响因素。
c6 N7 k( E4 d4 |( o5 u本书可供高等纺织院校纺织、服装相关专业的本科生及研究生作为《纺织材料学》的双语教材或专业英语教材,也可供其他专业师生、纺织贸易专业人员和科研及生产单位的技术人员参考。
3 M6 G- w1 E$ Z. }6 f7 U目录" `" k0 O. U6 N0 i
Part Ⅰ An Introduction to Textiles/纺织入门 18) Y0 \6 x) D \
Chapter 1 Introduction/介绍 18& e, D8 S2 k8 k' }" S
1.1 ASTM Standard Terminology Relating to Textiles/ASTM纺织标准术语 18
' E. y0 L$ T6 A! y3 H 1.2 Fiber history/纤维历史 26$ W' |! L% n$ {
1.2.1 Natural fibers/天然纤维 26
# l O5 l- S. ^# R7 G/ D 1.2.2 Man-made fibers/化学纤维 27
6 d1 Y9 X% ], Z6 B" L Questions/思考题 30. h- U6 h1 B u3 b- F' l
Part Ⅱ Textile Fibers/纺织纤维 32* a; }4 F5 ` v
Chapter 2 Natural Cellulosic Fibers/天然纤维素纤维 32) R' [ x6 k. |) |3 H
2.1 Cotton/棉 339 I/ o* A6 C( R8 L8 K+ \6 B( e
2.1.1 Nature of cotton/棉花的种类 33! w& x+ P) I4 X6 n6 m/ ]; I+ s
2.1.2 Classification/分类 34
6 @0 t; ^4 }* o. b" y 2.1.3 Growth and structure of cotton/棉纤维的生长与结构 34
/ w" q0 E" D X$ r- j 2.1.4 Maturity/成熟度 365 n3 h+ n, c- s8 U) O" c, Q! _
2.1.5 Cotton properties/棉纤维的性能 38* M5 P0 o% t; N1 j; X
2.1.6 Cotton classification/棉花分级 399 B- y' {) D9 r# `9 W S) \
2.2 Bast fibers/韧皮纤维 406 G5 D- y& R7 T* g: d
2.2.1 Flax (linen)/亚麻,亚麻织物 416 b I4 y+ j5 [
2.2.2 Ramie/苎麻 43, F: N5 I( n6 E5 L
2.2.3 Hemp/汉麻 44
5 A& _7 W: F! h 2.2.4 Jute/黄麻 440 t3 R1 q- u- c2 m5 {& b
Questions/思考题 45
3 s8 |, ]3 w* Q1 Y8 Q. Z1 B Chapter 3 Natural Protein Fibers/天然蛋白质纤维 46( }% a+ B# f3 _! e
3.1 Wool/绵羊毛 464 E' N3 G) f" T7 h' W2 n |+ w5 s
3.1.1 Wool production and history/羊毛生产和历史 46" K! E; B0 K" M& ^% p0 c6 ~& m
3.1.2 Wool grading/羊毛分级 47, N( ]& V1 { i
3.1.3 Wool structure/羊毛结构 476 W$ `) m! n- G0 u+ i- r( U- ^
3.1.4 Wool properties/羊毛性能 48
0 W# h+ _/ j1 o9 F* W/ g( P l9 Y5 e 3.2 Specialty animal fibers/特种动物毛 512 n2 l/ B$ Z9 k' t$ `
3.3 Silk/丝 52# z3 V, o% }1 c3 @) ^# k, z* H
Questions/思考题 54$ Z4 M7 r p- |( [* [; l- X
Chapter 4 Man-made Fibers/化学纤维 552 ^5 B# E) G) A6 d) _( M( z( h
4.1 Manufacturing processing of fiber/纤维生产工艺 55
% O$ u1 A: o4 ]; Z. F0 n! X 4.1.1 Wet spinning/湿法纺丝 569 E/ p3 |# Z" S' k# R! p0 o
4.1.2 Dry spinning/干法纺丝 56) n, i) ^5 j, U/ @) m3 U6 `( z3 j
4.1.3 Melt spinning/熔体法纺丝 56
1 R Y8 _2 m) e; h( H+ T 4.1.4 Gel spinning/凝胶纺丝 57' Y7 Z* R% E. G! q" {1 N: ^$ h
4.2 Regenerated fibers/再生纤维 57
, c5 |0 h$ G0 Q$ H) W 4.2.1 Acetate/醋酯纤维 57
; c3 y8 e( w7 Q7 v 4.2.2 Triacetate/三醋酯纤维 595 M2 y6 k9 t) v! G- u
4.2.3 Viscose fibers/粘胶纤维 59. V$ B J8 P4 K* O
4.3 Synthetic fibers/合成纤维 60
8 S. E& @! S; C 4.3.1 Acrylic/腈纶 60: x- `$ m2 [. x v' N& \/ ]" Q
4.3.2 Modacrylic/改性腈纶 61
5 ?8 f8 Y6 s0 K, y! ~6 q* l 4.3.3 Nylon/锦纶 61
2 b) C" a$ M% Z 4.3.4 Polyester/涤纶 62
# Q% Y8 T3 a8 w( y+ m: X3 V' B 4.3.5 PBI/聚苯并咪唑纤维 63
1 ~4 U4 a- L" w+ t. [ 4.3.6 Vinal/聚乙烯醇纤维 63
3 L& n# z# z1 p+ }0 N1 l8 m 4.3.7 Olefin/聚烯烃纤维 633 u( X' t/ q. [; F x
4.3.8 Aramid/芳纶 64) \( H/ n3 F' b. u
4.3.9 Lycra/莱卡 64
; C+ g* r; J# U- T$ V* k2 T 4.4 Other man-made fibers/其他化学纤维 66
+ Z" t" r5 _# ^) [7 K 4.4.1 Glass/玻璃纤维 667 ?! G; q$ n9 j( c' C9 q
4.4.2 Metallic/金属纤维 67 w' P' X6 P ?- Y2 v2 B) a; T
Questions/思考题 67
' U9 R2 c: ^, G Chapter 5 New Fibers/新型纤维 680 z1 [6 h! u3 X$ f2 M# ] }
5.1 Carbon fibers/碳纤维 68# c. h) V8 `' A+ |8 ?0 V( E( ^" \5 N2 R
5.2 Fluorocarbon/氟碳纤维 68" S/ i6 I; `/ G7 b) h- w$ V
5.3 Lyocell fibers(Tencel)/莱塞尔纤维 68: M! ]! P5 b! ^! p8 e
5.4 High-wet-modulus fibers/高湿模量纤维 69
" X$ h& B1 e' K2 d& c4 x7 j: }5 e 5.4.1 Modal fibers/莫代尔纤维 69
# `0 b$ I. L( X; K. D2 g- h 5.4.2 Richcel/丽赛纤维 70/ Q& |2 d- B$ f+ u3 x8 n
5.5 Soybean protein composite fibers/大豆蛋白复合纤维 70' }0 j; [& c+ X4 b
5.6 PLA fiber/聚左旋乳酸纤维 71
! r2 E2 L8 _3 }+ h, L% F% H 5.7 Heterogenous fibers/复合纤维 71* ?; J# n; m7 Q& J* J4 v1 \* _0 `
5.7.1 Bicomponent or multicomponent/双组分或多组分 72
* T4 y3 m0 U# ^3 a* a" ^( q+ G 5.7.2 Biconstituent or multiconstituent/双成分或多成分 73" M4 \* q$ ~! i6 ]
5.7.3 Matrix or matrix-fibril/基质型纤维 73( p2 ~) B+ [: ` @# j2 L9 ?: Q
5.8 Differential fibers/差别化纤维 748 m2 o9 _) u& i: m) ^0 u
5.9 Functional fibers/功能性纤维 74
* S/ e5 G( r' f4 U! p 5.10 High performance fibers/高性能纤维 740 } h' D/ `+ ?- }0 P
Questions/思考题 74
, N" Q3 Q8 y0 C# {9 n3 I Chapter 6 The Property of Absorbing Moisture/吸湿性 75
/ E' v2 ^( @9 b( E' v; k 6.1 Orientation and crystallization/取向与结晶 75
5 f% P5 g$ \5 D( x; U B 6.2 Moisture sorption/吸湿性 75
+ j0 o, @1 Y- I v+ f 6.2.1 Regain and moisture content/回潮率与含水率 75) j0 Q$ w3 I, t+ u) K' m
6.2.2 Relation between regain and relative humidity/回潮率与相对湿度的关系 75, E8 `* R1 A7 E3 w# f/ N
6.2.3 Comparison of various materials/不同材料吸湿性的对比 76, h8 f3 ` e' w) Z) t' {6 @- \
6.2.4 Theories of moisture sorption/吸湿理论 78' X4 g6 S7 n) Q6 H/ ]2 b3 s
Questions/思考题 80
# F: V a$ e" T/ q- w/ L- z Chapter 7 Other Physical Properties of Textile Fibers/纤维的其他物理性能 812 z4 l3 K- \- k& @, j% a) }1 ]
7.1 Electronic properties/电学性能 816 X7 {# K- l2 q: c6 o
7.1.1 Definitions/定义 81
2 I' I0 M. l: P( c 7.2 Optical properties/光学性能 82% y W6 p8 y) N7 L& v
7.3 Thermal properties/热学性能 83! B: E6 S! O8 n5 \9 G' U; Z, {" ]/ y
7.3.1 Thermal parameters/热力学参数 83
6 ~7 N" X( P6 S K 7.3.2 A comparison of temperature effects/温度效应比较 83
* h7 r$ E3 n' Y, A: n$ J) Q Questions/思考题 83
" a0 a. p0 g8 Y/ [6 N+ r/ tPart Ⅲ Textile Yarns/纺织纱线 84/ X& X# V5 }5 L" l. U3 C- i
Chapter 8 Yarn Processing and Construction/纱线制造与结构 842 V, B, {- u# E! }" p, A* ]
8.1 Spun yarns/短纤纱 85
) V& g+ U3 z% z* f; H: Z 8.2 Filament yarns/长丝纱 85" x$ t$ C# X. n1 E* \
8.3 Methods of yarn processing/纺纱方法 85
) k% Z+ M; x6 |4 O3 h" y: A 8.3.1 Ring-spinning/环锭纺 86
; o% x3 h7 B3 \ 8.3.2 New methods of yarn processing/新型纺纱方法 86
, v8 V+ d7 N" Z7 R! h4 r 8.4 Single and ply yarns/单纱和股线 89& n) a7 j6 |) x0 [8 x
8.5 Special types of yarn/特种纱线 90
0 U4 N- Y5 x, g6 b& x, G 8.5.1 Fancy yarns/花式纱 90. O0 b" ~# K$ h
8.5.2 Stretch yarns/弹力纱 91
1 G ] J$ c+ d6 z- F: j 8.5.3 Textured yarns 变形纱线 91
+ L4 P. m; v0 u0 @5 [% I3 G 8.6 Blends and mixtures yarns/纱线混纺与混用 92 |" R0 R7 K$ C _2 V
Questions/思考题 93$ b/ ~* s* }/ N5 r v% X
Chapter 9 Yarn Properties/纱线性能 94
0 i+ H5 }/ D8 f$ j 9.1 Yarn number/纱线细度 94
( Y: b6 k' j5 J9 {' J 9.1.1 Denier system/旦数 94
- M) W5 M' X9 U& E$ f+ y* O* }. ? 9.1.2 Yarn count system/纱线英制支数 94' T# Q. V: n; N- P. n
9.1.3 Tex system/线密度 95
1 b, d4 K3 J) P5 q# T% K# u/ x 9.1.4 Metric numbering system/公制支数 95
! ^* m4 _! q k, z% E/ M0 ~' X& L& h 9.1.5 Conversion in different systems/不同系统之间的换算 95: m6 C. j0 `2 r1 ~( n
9.2 Ply yarn counts and singles equivalent/股线支数与单纱支数 95
; I; n) ]1 T2 B' a: ? 9.3 Yarn twist/纱线捻度 964 F' D2 H, v& F& E! C
9.4 Yarn hairiness/纱线毛羽 97' u( e8 V& `# C% c$ t( U8 i2 X2 `
9.4.1 Hairiness test method/毛羽测试方法 98: c* v: A! m& u: f* ?
9.4.2 Factors affecting hairiness/影响毛羽的因素 98
% n9 q% ] d" U$ G8 ^: S3 q 9.5 Yarn unevenness/纱线不匀 99
4 X9 L# Z0 c9 [) @6 t# j6 T$ M 9.5.1 Test of yarn unevenness/纱线不匀的测试 99# n# c4 I1 \* U' K. u$ j1 e; \
9.5.2 Reasons for yarn unevenness/纱线不匀的原因 100
8 x3 b1 R# k* q' a, C 9.6 Classification of yarn quality/纱线质量分析 100
2 b! e+ @1 Z- t: ?7 c' V4 n K( G) ` Questions/思考题 100
3 D# n- k: }+ c( j" Y5 RPart Ⅳ Textile Fabrics/织物 102
6 b, N/ h+ a$ |* C4 ?5 r, O8 M4 T4 O Chapter 10 Woven Fabrics/机织物 102
( g3 R, u# F# \8 `/ E: V- C0 \9 g$ y 10.1 Making woven fabrics/织制机织物 102$ W( H: b! n2 C( v+ P" E' j/ v; M
10.1.1 The loom/织机 102
7 M: z# \" Y' l% V, _( D 10.1.2 Loom type/织机类型 104
- j _0 k2 u! C/ T 10.1.3 Loom motions/织机运动 104
. g2 ]$ x( {2 g* H' w 10.1.4 Electronics in weaving/电子技术在织机中的应用 105# M; w9 K) U/ j+ o
10.1.5 The selvage/布边 105
% j/ z. K" G, V) Z) a/ Y7 }$ C 10.2 Warp yarns and filling yarns/经纱和纬纱 105' f( Q$ a1 y& n
10.2.1 Identification/鉴别 106
% ~2 X/ G( b$ m5 K 10.3 Face and back/正面与反面 106
: s& P# ?- H1 C% ~8 D* G9 X4 f 10.3.1 Reasons for differenee/存在差异的原因 107: N4 [, M% n4 m& Z! W3 { r0 t
10.3.2 Caution/应用的要点 107
g5 J( ?/ L) F0 a6 z6 S* ` 10.4 Top and bottom/顶端和底端 107
. r! r; {2 T( D5 G3 [$ a3 U 10.4.1 Reasons for difference/存在差异的原因 107
i/ m) A+ P0 R# E 10.5 Weave floats/组织浮线 108
# O2 ?: Z2 ^9 s1 K 10.6 Basic weaves/基本组织 108% \( \: E2 p6 h5 j9 B
10.6.1 Plain weave/平纹组织 1088 _% M4 S8 W, [! T1 j" `5 @
10.6.2 Twill weave/斜纹组织 109: k/ s, C) t0 V
10.6.3 Satin weave/缎纹组织 111
& [4 e, e1 o, r; y4 P% X4 g3 m 10.7 Fabric performance and characteristics/织物性能和参数 112 p' Y6 l6 D" h+ Z3 Z
10.7.1 Fabric width/幅宽 112; N7 W8 R6 j4 k7 h
10.7.2 Fabric weight/织物重量 112
. G9 J0 V7 x! Q, q# d# C 10.7.3 Fabric thickness/织物厚度 113
3 t0 p) N0 \2 N6 Y8 }! @ 10.7.4 Fabric density/织物密度 113
; ~7 l5 \1 b6 v, _8 j ? 10.7.5 Fabric count/织物经纬密度 113
# X8 ^9 `6 | o" V$ n* v' ~4 y 10.7.6 Fabric defects/织物疵点 1132 K' C8 T3 N4 {1 u; L) N
Questions/思考题 113! L6 q7 }; @; s- e
Chapter 11 Knitted Fabrics/针织物 114; j$ ?& Y0 t. Z2 i% ^8 c8 z
11.1 Making of knitted fabric/针织物形成 114+ }8 ]" h6 R! U+ @+ P3 N( c3 n- ?
11.1.1 The forming of knitted stitches/线圈的形成 114
, z6 ^4 ]$ E# ~5 l8 r2 [* {3 w 11.1.2 Types of knitted stitches/线圈的种类 116
# @8 N+ S I2 U$ V( ] 11.2 Weft knits/纬编针织物 117
7 n/ S0 _# N/ J2 a 11.2.1 Jersey knit fabric/纬平针织物 117
& W& ^8 k! n" X' J- G1 D9 n, l 11.2.2 Rib knit fabric/罗纹针织物 118, Q: i. d7 W' d; G% d {4 t$ P2 n
11.2.3 Purl knit fabric/双反面针织物 119
, L8 J- @/ p% { 11.2.4 Double knits/双面针织物 120, V& Q. m+ S) ?4 C$ Y8 t, C
11.2.5 Full-fashioned knits/全成形针织物 120: }0 T( N2 c6 r# H' u
11.3 Warp knits/经编针织物 121) o7 b+ `; ^; ~, b: S4 o
11.3.1 Tricot fabrics/特里科经编针织物 121
9 v/ w$ U2 h4 q/ `1 ^0 e 11.3.2 Raschel fabrics/拉舍尔经编针织物 122
0 H# _$ g" j5 e, j' \ 11.4 Performance and characteristics/性能和参数 1228 U" R& U& H' g: ?- [( C1 [ Z
Questions/思考题 123/ x- [ t4 i9 S
Chapter 12 Nonwoven Fabrics/非织造布 124( L1 j& z: n0 D+ ^
12.1 Introduction/导论 124
5 W; K. Z6 s7 q$ N 12.2 Manufacturing methods/生产方法 125
9 N4 M& {8 d; K 12.2.1 Dry laid system/干法成网 125 Q; V5 b2 X* h5 ^5 \
12.2.2 Wet laid system/湿法成网 125/ s: {) B" q4 k
12.2.3 Polymer laid system/聚合物挤压法 125
! u" ^- i! s5 z* | t5 Z" c 12.3 Various nonwovens/各种非织造布 125
" j% R6 t3 f$ O0 }6 C' c/ | 12.3.1 Needle punched nonwovens/针刺法非织造布 125
: @3 @9 z3 }7 O( b 12.3.2 Bonded web nonwovens/黏合法非织造布 126
; j1 i6 J! W! W' O 12.3.3 Spunlaced nonwovens/射流喷网法非织造布 1278 ~$ n" E& u j1 T- i# q! ~; K! G! o
12.3.4 Spunbonded nonwovens/纺粘法非织造布 128
. v( O) U+ ^- r1 k+ n. P, _ _' J c 12.3.5 Melt-blown nonwovens/熔喷法非织造布 129
, r; d2 g+ q& r% {) H4 |8 [ Questions/思考题 129; D; K9 [0 \7 x+ b4 [8 ~8 x
Part Ⅴ Textile Testing/纺织品测试 130* o$ Z8 Z" Z0 {' _3 K% P. q2 t
Chapter 13 General Test Methods/常规测试方法 130
& b1 d2 W) i7 \: Z6 o- q 13.1 General fiber tests/纤维常规测试 130' M# o8 z# C) \( Z$ F% p0 a
13.1.1 Fiber identification/纤维鉴别 1305 ^/ R1 m# G) Y' F9 `+ f
13.1.2 Fiber length/纤维长度 134
2 }, d4 [7 _( w% H3 W% S! E 13.1.3 Fiber fineness or linear density/纤维细度或线密度 135) A' s1 [6 C! e3 S( X
13.1.4 Cross-sectional shape/截面形状 135- h, I5 p6 ^6 U
13.1.5 Crimp/卷曲 135
. X9 _/ k9 a+ h/ X/ G9 D. z 13.1.6 Regain/回潮率 136
1 B+ A! K, m0 L# m 13.1.7 Mechanical properties/机械性能 1361 N; B# q% C+ A' r3 b! i
13.1.8 Chemical characteristics/化学性能 136
7 M9 {7 e( A4 x1 y6 a1 [ 13.1.9 Surface characteristics/表面性能 136
, L( [ W+ J, S5 b { i, l 13.1.10 Density and specific gravity/密度和相对密度 137
: I& L! f. v/ F* A6 x 13.2 Special tests for natural fibers/天然纤维的测试 137. B" M% E; V. `6 n' v9 A. w
13.2.1 Tests for cotton/棉纤维测试 137
+ z5 t. Q$ ?4 \" A8 _3 ` 13.2.2 Tests for wool/毛纤维测试 139
4 b2 }, @ a& k; `, |& A 13.3 Testing of tensile properties/拉伸性能测试 140
$ y" ~9 j7 u, B$ I# N$ l 13.3.1 Description of tensile proprieties/拉伸性能的描述 141
% I' _( q% y0 M4 ~* G7 U4 L/ n9 w 13.3.2 Fiber and yarn tensile testing/纤维和纱线拉伸性能的测试 146
5 s5 x. C! }9 z p$ | 13.3.3 Fabric tensile testing/织物拉伸性能测试方法 147
! q/ u: p, Q8 R. ^4 m$ X; h Questions/思考题 149
/ o$ E) u7 u$ ]' X; g Chapter 14 Fabric Abrasion and Pilling/织物磨损与起球 150
1 S" p; n5 I# P' i; F# l 14.1 Types of abrasion/磨损的类型 1507 M ^! B5 B; j* D1 a9 X0 A. i3 W* ?
14.1.1 Abrasion between fabrics/织物间的磨损 150
7 [- O* h( H7 Y. F* u/ u7 O9 f 14.1.2 Abrasion between fabric and a nontextile surface/织物与非纤维制品表面磨损 150* e/ E2 ~5 f9 x( ]7 L
14.1.3 Abrasion within fabric/织物内部磨损 151& Z. N+ ?5 _: [
14.1.4 Abrasion by foreign materials within the fabric/与织物内部其他材料的磨损 151' B P( `: Q& @4 f8 ?1 J- X3 N- A( ?
14.2 Factors affecting fabric abrasion resistance/影响耐磨性能的因素 1519 w0 {5 L, h" O3 i8 d: D) \
14.2.1 Fabric properties/织物性能 151
# P" G! x+ I4 I8 I: I. c5 Z 14.2.2 Other factors/其他因素 153
- ~5 V/ ]* F4 p7 h* w 14.3 Abrasion testing/磨损测试 154 m6 n% q& B$ M5 `' J
14.3.1 Visual comparison with an unabraded specimen/与未磨损样品视觉对比 154; w& ^, k, z( y
14.3.2 Number of cycles to produce a hole/产生磨损破洞需要的摩擦圈数 154
) Z9 N1 x Z: o/ R; D; }# J7 D% t 14.3.3 Change in a physical property/物理性能的变化 1544 Y+ M$ g& B0 u# t$ _
14.3.4 Microscopic examination/显微镜观测 155
) U1 w, z" f9 b& s8 G) P 14.4 Aesthetics of abrasion and wear/穿着和磨损对美感的影响 1558 P R a8 N. R5 a9 H6 }
14.4.1 Color changes caused by abrasion/磨损引起的颜色变化 155# p4 ?0 S' R+ h, m/ C0 P
14.4.2 Pilling/起球 1568 h) d; L5 N0 J3 c
Questions/思考题 1570 \5 O/ }/ P" r( g
Chapter 15 Fabric Hand and Drape/织物手感与悬垂 158
" P2 y6 a1 k C 15.1 Fabric hand/织物手感 158
# `" y0 v# |" f8 L4 C 15.2 Fabric drape/织物悬垂 159
1 x' ?$ }6 U3 ?4 F1 G+ n3 G3 A 15.3 Measurement of hand and drape/手感与悬垂的评价 161/ r, k* @8 x# i y" K+ @
15.3.1 Subjective evaluation/主观评定法 161 m J+ d& ^# U3 ]- Z, L/ B
15.3.2 Quantitative measurement/定量评定法 1628 t% \- \3 ^: v( x
15.3.3 Kawabata evaluation system/KES评定法 163
. S# T# E6 z$ l Questions/思考题 163& i g$ \1 d$ b( R, r
Chapter 16 Fabric Colorfastness/织物染色牢度 164
% m/ z9 p' |6 [1 h' ~" y 16.1 Evaluation of color and colorfastness/颜色和染色牢度评定方法 164& s$ E; D1 [8 h% E* \
16.2 Colorfastness tests/染色牢度测试 164' M6 \. [8 U5 l O' B( R- q8 y
16.2.1 Colorfastness to crocking/耐摩擦色牢度 164
- G- u( u8 k: Q8 R 16.2.2 Colorfastness to laundering and bleaching/耐洗涤和耐漂白色牢 165# f- i) j* Y! ~8 }9 H' Z1 Z% f) ~
16.2.3 Colorfastness to drycleaning/耐干洗色牢度 166
Q U1 E& [! n- Q3 h: s 16.2.4 Colorfastness to perspiration/耐汗渍色牢度 166
! }3 A' i3 e+ S2 X8 _( B. H$ l. b2 v 16.2.5 Colorfastness to water/耐水浸色牢度 1668 o2 n& M$ ]/ u: M
16.2.6 Colorfastness to light/耐光照色牢度 167
V( e; g+ f9 y2 `2 c7 i9 l! T 16.2.7 Colorfastness to atmospheric contaminants/耐空气污染色牢度 168* G X" y6 L! U( V0 X* |
Questions/思考题 168
% b' P' z' U; w; t. S Chapter 17 Fabric Flammability/织物可燃性 169
# C8 ~$ G- j. ^1 y4 G8 b. r 17.1 Flammability standards/可燃性标准 169
9 k( Z& ~5 u) I5 G$ M6 u 17.2 Properties affecting flammability/影响可燃性的因素 169, l8 `; }8 A# v. ]) U
17.3 Flammability testing/可燃性测试 171
6 X! y8 V( O8 n5 Q* {# e1 W 17.3.1 Forty-five degree angle test/45°燃烧测试法 171
3 A' X, [8 P& H4 x/ v) u 17.3.2 Vertical flame tests/垂直燃烧测试法 172
4 J0 G9 ~5 o1 d4 S% P9 f 17.3.3 Carpet testing/地毯测试 172
. H/ K- Z0 v* l' s, v' K k; t5 n$ e 17.3.4 Cigarette tests/卷烟点燃测试 172+ e5 I% |+ F M! F
17.3.5 Other standard flammability tests/其他可燃性测试 173
4 @% V C* O# n* j3 ^ Questions/思考题 173; I* ] Q# J3 t+ _
Chapter 18 Comfort of Textiles/纺织品舒适性 174! k+ l; E3 s3 G; d
18.1 Physical phenomena affecting thermal comfort/影响热舒适性能的物理现象 174 F, h4 e) f$ u7 Y0 ]
18.1.1 Heat transfer/热传递 174. q1 c3 A( R3 i+ E8 W
18.1.2 Moisture transfer/湿传递 175
9 I: d2 l7 Z3 c3 z( g9 N* D 18.1.3 Water resistance/抗水性 175! v0 d% z$ R4 N+ }( ?
18.1.4 Air transfer/透气性 176
! M4 z% b6 o7 A 18.1.5 Porosity and cover factor/多孔性和覆盖系数 176
; Y/ [' r/ @$ L0 A. p 18.1.6 Electrostatic propensity/静电 177
# ?& } d: d) D6 ] 18.2 Evaluations of textile properties related to comfort/与舒适性相关的纺织品性能评价 177 W& W2 B. V( N3 R9 n2 }, U. w
18.2.1 Heat transfer/热传递 1786 a- w" m% A5 M; G) ] |4 P
18.2.2 Moisture properties/湿传递性能 179; ?3 k0 w3 V! O5 V+ w. g! I
18.2.3 Air permeability/透气性 179
' c# z3 c: S, E 18.2.4 Porosity/孔隙率 1802 k: `- v: A- a; E- f
18.2.5 Electrostatic tests/静电测试 180
4 g: `5 X( x$ k Questions/思考题 180
0 ^" o6 B/ H, c$ R9 D8 A _Appendix/附录 181
& N2 y3 C- Y F+ u, G AATCC:AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS/美国纺织化学家与染色家协会 181
; F; U& r: K4 N# s& m ASTM:AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR TESTING AND MATERIALS/美国材料试验学会 184
, n& f& L; r7 L ~Vocabulary/词汇表 189
7 b& A4 V9 f2 T2 Y2 l# t2 D5 AReferences/参考文献 197* x0 `; F* ]1 w, H" O
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