
纺织材料学(双语教材),刘妍,熊磊,PDF。普通高等教育“十一五”国家级规划教材(本科),纺织工程专业双语教材,电子目录,14M。2 M: O! q. | p5 O
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内容提要
; v5 C0 ^2 G+ L7 E' J: E- x本书讨论了纤维、纱线与织物(包括机织物、针织物及非织造布)的结构、机械性能、物理性能及使用性能。涉及的纤维势括天然纤维(如棉、毛、麻、丝等)、传统化学纤维及新型化学纤维。本书同时介绍了纤维、纱线和织物的各种标准测试方法(包括国际上常用的ASTM, AATCC及GB等方法),并讨论了与各种测试方法有关的测试原理及对测试结果的影响因素。
2 `9 i: f+ G4 t/ r本书可供高等纺织院校纺织、服装相关专业的本科生及研究生作为《纺织材料学》的双语教材或专业英语教材,也可供其他专业师生、纺织贸易专业人员和科研及生产单位的技术人员参考。% Y) [9 Q+ q' V2 Q: x
目录3 H1 p# y' R. ^
Part Ⅰ An Introduction to Textiles/纺织入门 18
6 _! X# R1 k& g, I A. V Chapter 1 Introduction/介绍 18
! U' p: r# r* q4 \. U 1.1 ASTM Standard Terminology Relating to Textiles/ASTM纺织标准术语 18 ^, H' C3 z' T/ u9 O. \; X
1.2 Fiber history/纤维历史 268 b8 q$ Q/ u, b: I# a$ D
1.2.1 Natural fibers/天然纤维 26' u# B8 b6 G/ L9 D
1.2.2 Man-made fibers/化学纤维 27 ^" O D% ^* T. H# _' Y
Questions/思考题 30
8 S4 i- `- j) I0 b& a* }. R" dPart Ⅱ Textile Fibers/纺织纤维 32" s; j3 [6 R5 K- m
Chapter 2 Natural Cellulosic Fibers/天然纤维素纤维 32! t- N4 F1 |3 g0 u/ \
2.1 Cotton/棉 338 E$ O4 Z: l4 s* q9 B
2.1.1 Nature of cotton/棉花的种类 33+ c7 n: f. k3 E
2.1.2 Classification/分类 34
% s: x# |. w6 r' P 2.1.3 Growth and structure of cotton/棉纤维的生长与结构 341 E5 E2 f( ~* V5 \3 ~
2.1.4 Maturity/成熟度 36
) r7 P* {3 S# L- B3 B% Y 2.1.5 Cotton properties/棉纤维的性能 38
, L; W9 f7 q' f! |7 e! _/ Q: i* { 2.1.6 Cotton classification/棉花分级 39. C0 o% `/ D- A/ _/ ^
2.2 Bast fibers/韧皮纤维 40
9 X4 F5 L; U% \8 j+ f 2.2.1 Flax (linen)/亚麻,亚麻织物 41 ^) l2 C- W* f9 a% v. n
2.2.2 Ramie/苎麻 43
4 I& @# w& l) P, J0 e 2.2.3 Hemp/汉麻 44
' l* v" U7 t% d9 w0 _ 2.2.4 Jute/黄麻 44
4 z- ~' n n1 r/ @; H( J7 x- s Questions/思考题 45( i5 q8 T4 ~! I# }5 T' L7 Z; P( G1 q
Chapter 3 Natural Protein Fibers/天然蛋白质纤维 462 A7 x9 |) H9 s' C* X& t# s
3.1 Wool/绵羊毛 46
( ]1 W# W- O" X! T) V 3.1.1 Wool production and history/羊毛生产和历史 46
4 V; F' Z. |3 R3 Q 3.1.2 Wool grading/羊毛分级 47
9 U* g9 _- b, \: F6 \ 3.1.3 Wool structure/羊毛结构 471 N; _- x* ^3 i4 G) X
3.1.4 Wool properties/羊毛性能 48
! b! b1 n) w7 S d: b5 Z 3.2 Specialty animal fibers/特种动物毛 51- H/ v/ c6 c6 `: E. z: P
3.3 Silk/丝 52# b7 o- T+ z" P0 i
Questions/思考题 54/ d7 m) ]% z T5 ?
Chapter 4 Man-made Fibers/化学纤维 556 \! T: ^' i/ Z1 r* s
4.1 Manufacturing processing of fiber/纤维生产工艺 55- m8 Z" I# B9 s7 t
4.1.1 Wet spinning/湿法纺丝 56
# P: _* O3 S# g D/ h 4.1.2 Dry spinning/干法纺丝 56. B1 |' w# k$ ^. `
4.1.3 Melt spinning/熔体法纺丝 56
1 a* Z; t( O2 H( k. b% r) c7 E7 T# P+ V 4.1.4 Gel spinning/凝胶纺丝 57
) x$ W4 F7 _( ^' @1 m' L 4.2 Regenerated fibers/再生纤维 57- `) t4 k4 Z! N# C3 @# m2 B
4.2.1 Acetate/醋酯纤维 57
' P1 q; m' f: @0 Z: R( A 4.2.2 Triacetate/三醋酯纤维 593 C* i5 J' B/ Y! c' K/ A k6 d: i
4.2.3 Viscose fibers/粘胶纤维 59& ~& b- S/ Y' B7 O3 Z. J
4.3 Synthetic fibers/合成纤维 60
0 R+ R' B2 R3 Q/ Y 4.3.1 Acrylic/腈纶 60
$ W3 ~ Q1 f4 _1 \2 f" p 4.3.2 Modacrylic/改性腈纶 61) x1 F0 Y2 j8 P( o9 |9 Y
4.3.3 Nylon/锦纶 61: y. J8 f0 B0 X1 d# N) p" ^8 Q( I2 g# n
4.3.4 Polyester/涤纶 628 T6 A1 w* [" R3 H
4.3.5 PBI/聚苯并咪唑纤维 63' k/ \: t! p7 Q1 g, ?4 f
4.3.6 Vinal/聚乙烯醇纤维 630 g C8 t7 q/ {7 O' g/ y
4.3.7 Olefin/聚烯烃纤维 63
, n8 |8 E) D+ j) _ 4.3.8 Aramid/芳纶 64/ r: Y( K @! G; v# F* H
4.3.9 Lycra/莱卡 64- O8 R* E) p, X( c
4.4 Other man-made fibers/其他化学纤维 66
& n* g# | |: z1 ^4 Q 4.4.1 Glass/玻璃纤维 66
* O7 _+ M% b" z' l l! w$ Q 4.4.2 Metallic/金属纤维 67
% W6 f; b/ H# ^* a2 f* @2 _ ?6 V, U$ D Questions/思考题 67! g `/ X H0 ^3 A3 Q
Chapter 5 New Fibers/新型纤维 68
4 L& d- i+ {9 K+ ~- G2 L 5.1 Carbon fibers/碳纤维 68
( l( I- X3 e9 O! b% h4 ~ 5.2 Fluorocarbon/氟碳纤维 68
& O: E) Z8 H; L& ?6 X* }) n" m 5.3 Lyocell fibers(Tencel)/莱塞尔纤维 68
, b" k' V: |9 v f4 x( l 5.4 High-wet-modulus fibers/高湿模量纤维 69
# W, ^& p& e/ A% X; |- u( T: M7 K1 j 5.4.1 Modal fibers/莫代尔纤维 69
4 ?( l* t o6 t$ b 5.4.2 Richcel/丽赛纤维 70) `3 R' k" J# i4 S/ Y2 @% E* d
5.5 Soybean protein composite fibers/大豆蛋白复合纤维 70 g3 ]$ q- b3 m+ l0 i
5.6 PLA fiber/聚左旋乳酸纤维 71
! F" g; o. G6 m. e2 h- F: ? 5.7 Heterogenous fibers/复合纤维 71: Z7 C: F; X1 w6 Z) x: A" [+ l
5.7.1 Bicomponent or multicomponent/双组分或多组分 720 P8 T$ r1 [ W
5.7.2 Biconstituent or multiconstituent/双成分或多成分 732 h5 V3 h6 H+ V6 p
5.7.3 Matrix or matrix-fibril/基质型纤维 73
j) D/ E+ q4 n6 _$ _7 L4 \3 b2 }; m/ f 5.8 Differential fibers/差别化纤维 74
/ Z! i, N% V! N2 X) o& k 5.9 Functional fibers/功能性纤维 742 I" O2 Y- `8 f6 i
5.10 High performance fibers/高性能纤维 74
2 \9 n/ v) Y5 R- J Questions/思考题 74+ {6 {3 b" n2 P2 h
Chapter 6 The Property of Absorbing Moisture/吸湿性 75
* M/ ^8 e/ m' c9 Q# {& @: ^ 6.1 Orientation and crystallization/取向与结晶 75; B/ t' ]* P9 ^! Y$ Z0 ~9 V
6.2 Moisture sorption/吸湿性 75
/ j8 @! a* k: R- Z 6.2.1 Regain and moisture content/回潮率与含水率 759 t: h; P. k- V) v" w5 o: U
6.2.2 Relation between regain and relative humidity/回潮率与相对湿度的关系 75 `# [! y6 m f4 L% _4 U9 ^6 u
6.2.3 Comparison of various materials/不同材料吸湿性的对比 76
7 R0 m9 p9 F) q' x 6.2.4 Theories of moisture sorption/吸湿理论 78# n L- q G- f' ]3 v) j
Questions/思考题 80
1 {( S- H+ D5 T, m3 g( c: q Chapter 7 Other Physical Properties of Textile Fibers/纤维的其他物理性能 814 M g7 Y1 Z# _/ t
7.1 Electronic properties/电学性能 81, l8 H( v( O& H% ]
7.1.1 Definitions/定义 81/ h& p' ] T9 I8 e
7.2 Optical properties/光学性能 82: g8 Z3 d: i6 I' |! T
7.3 Thermal properties/热学性能 83$ @2 j. h0 F- z1 r& j3 K
7.3.1 Thermal parameters/热力学参数 83) O' f, w/ U9 o L' k' Q! r
7.3.2 A comparison of temperature effects/温度效应比较 83
5 L6 A5 y6 Z2 V! a0 \+ L Questions/思考题 836 O5 C3 ]# s7 p |
Part Ⅲ Textile Yarns/纺织纱线 84
! F2 H8 j4 N! }! P l Chapter 8 Yarn Processing and Construction/纱线制造与结构 84" m1 y& R! K4 t* h
8.1 Spun yarns/短纤纱 85; S3 J) x) n' J- H" L: |
8.2 Filament yarns/长丝纱 851 X9 `' ]- }# p0 [8 T
8.3 Methods of yarn processing/纺纱方法 854 a" Y. g4 f) k; h# q2 ?
8.3.1 Ring-spinning/环锭纺 869 _3 v9 C6 p3 ]+ r: @) ] \0 Z7 f
8.3.2 New methods of yarn processing/新型纺纱方法 863 {3 h2 K/ G" s0 G- Q' y: i: F7 }
8.4 Single and ply yarns/单纱和股线 89
9 \# d: x2 Z( ]8 a 8.5 Special types of yarn/特种纱线 90
% ~4 v5 e1 \9 H5 i' y 8.5.1 Fancy yarns/花式纱 90$ Q& }7 X( u+ e# u3 ]
8.5.2 Stretch yarns/弹力纱 91
1 W6 L q/ V; }' w+ ^7 k) H 8.5.3 Textured yarns 变形纱线 91
3 A8 I$ [) v7 |/ @ 8.6 Blends and mixtures yarns/纱线混纺与混用 92 ]$ x& J+ q6 d/ Q4 t' Z' @4 ~6 P
Questions/思考题 93
% o; _$ y* I! S" u/ F: P1 ~ Chapter 9 Yarn Properties/纱线性能 94
* I8 \- F# g9 e" ` 9.1 Yarn number/纱线细度 94
& E! g1 n. z0 E. C5 A1 b 9.1.1 Denier system/旦数 94% D- a/ O: J: V4 [5 m H% D8 X* d
9.1.2 Yarn count system/纱线英制支数 94" J5 Z+ i/ v0 x# c8 E; H
9.1.3 Tex system/线密度 95: s& C4 x/ q4 r* I1 L! A! a! d0 ^
9.1.4 Metric numbering system/公制支数 95+ Z. G5 r- y1 w9 I) S
9.1.5 Conversion in different systems/不同系统之间的换算 95
# E, @/ X: y4 ~ |9 d s 9.2 Ply yarn counts and singles equivalent/股线支数与单纱支数 95
+ E" g) p: H+ J9 M' @( ^ 9.3 Yarn twist/纱线捻度 96
( C& E; x! A. a3 {& ` 9.4 Yarn hairiness/纱线毛羽 97
6 f% } s5 }7 H/ |! k 9.4.1 Hairiness test method/毛羽测试方法 98
( O& D9 V l. h5 M 9.4.2 Factors affecting hairiness/影响毛羽的因素 98
. k' N+ U# p1 q0 w; r) |( `. X' t 9.5 Yarn unevenness/纱线不匀 99) f/ [* p5 D4 P0 Q5 f
9.5.1 Test of yarn unevenness/纱线不匀的测试 99! ^3 O8 B$ R; K) r* }2 o& g
9.5.2 Reasons for yarn unevenness/纱线不匀的原因 100
) L% f5 J8 o7 [0 I7 ` q' t 9.6 Classification of yarn quality/纱线质量分析 100
* ^" x9 a2 ~# p Questions/思考题 100
& E2 h$ d5 F; z/ iPart Ⅳ Textile Fabrics/织物 1021 q8 @; a1 G S7 J. i) }
Chapter 10 Woven Fabrics/机织物 102/ O! v0 q8 W& ]5 J) k8 O- c; V1 H
10.1 Making woven fabrics/织制机织物 102
0 O4 F6 F6 b: n 10.1.1 The loom/织机 102
. g. L: e# u' v: q" M 10.1.2 Loom type/织机类型 104; m: n9 p! ?' I4 T5 u- g
10.1.3 Loom motions/织机运动 104$ e4 x6 i" G0 L8 D
10.1.4 Electronics in weaving/电子技术在织机中的应用 105) T+ e% Y1 E) ~4 g( J
10.1.5 The selvage/布边 105
2 m+ E4 |% @# c+ w 10.2 Warp yarns and filling yarns/经纱和纬纱 105; B' i! [1 k# o- I6 u: O' x0 R
10.2.1 Identification/鉴别 106
$ o* a0 [+ R( [1 p+ @7 c 10.3 Face and back/正面与反面 106
" F2 U j) u* A 10.3.1 Reasons for differenee/存在差异的原因 107 m+ K5 |6 g5 A ~ n5 J. }4 q- \
10.3.2 Caution/应用的要点 107
, D; _. r! X6 s$ |4 X- T+ x/ F 10.4 Top and bottom/顶端和底端 107
1 x/ O% B- _! N$ w ] 10.4.1 Reasons for difference/存在差异的原因 107
" v( b; `/ s2 g' K. B 10.5 Weave floats/组织浮线 108
4 n( X& W z& o- x/ N 10.6 Basic weaves/基本组织 1083 _1 L4 ?6 A9 S% X
10.6.1 Plain weave/平纹组织 108- v9 F3 i% g3 M& p1 J% ~
10.6.2 Twill weave/斜纹组织 1090 Q6 i: L* R( \ R" G* y
10.6.3 Satin weave/缎纹组织 111
0 u- P" u- N0 z; M; E5 w* A2 a 10.7 Fabric performance and characteristics/织物性能和参数 112
4 b* k6 |# P0 v$ M 10.7.1 Fabric width/幅宽 112" n' v& x+ F N& e9 ~, M2 u
10.7.2 Fabric weight/织物重量 112: b6 g! q. n3 s4 G
10.7.3 Fabric thickness/织物厚度 113
; C3 {% X0 M! N4 C6 T; v 10.7.4 Fabric density/织物密度 113' [6 e: W+ f8 M
10.7.5 Fabric count/织物经纬密度 113% C$ W# g" `9 E1 C! G
10.7.6 Fabric defects/织物疵点 113
# |; U2 S [3 K5 U Questions/思考题 113
) y4 B; Y0 T6 g: x! t' {: a Chapter 11 Knitted Fabrics/针织物 114
9 u& }; o1 }+ x 11.1 Making of knitted fabric/针织物形成 114
& s+ @6 E r m* X% n( r 11.1.1 The forming of knitted stitches/线圈的形成 114
* j/ A& S$ y+ }* W5 R/ [ 11.1.2 Types of knitted stitches/线圈的种类 116) p% a5 U V: x+ t7 g4 D( h
11.2 Weft knits/纬编针织物 117& m' o5 N9 j/ j: O
11.2.1 Jersey knit fabric/纬平针织物 117+ \$ B1 E+ v( |: l7 O4 E
11.2.2 Rib knit fabric/罗纹针织物 118# j2 A6 q e: g* O5 {$ j
11.2.3 Purl knit fabric/双反面针织物 1190 m% ~: W, C6 J5 H& ~
11.2.4 Double knits/双面针织物 120& p- J5 E. t4 V% R$ g. |
11.2.5 Full-fashioned knits/全成形针织物 120
. P' C6 K* e# {+ b: u 11.3 Warp knits/经编针织物 1218 q6 R' I* Y6 m3 z8 Q9 G( G3 m
11.3.1 Tricot fabrics/特里科经编针织物 121
! q* ^2 j, x6 H/ V7 L h0 Y3 V# }; N 11.3.2 Raschel fabrics/拉舍尔经编针织物 122
4 A+ ^( q5 ^ h; G1 \; R+ i, q 11.4 Performance and characteristics/性能和参数 122& y1 |9 t# E( [% T( ?9 L V
Questions/思考题 123' V& t9 U6 |. [; x! t
Chapter 12 Nonwoven Fabrics/非织造布 124
- a {) L9 F# s! H& \& d 12.1 Introduction/导论 1243 F% X5 Q3 r+ U7 s: M. ?. [; a
12.2 Manufacturing methods/生产方法 125
m; w! k" @6 T! K# H 12.2.1 Dry laid system/干法成网 1250 K( G$ [6 J7 R, a2 _) `
12.2.2 Wet laid system/湿法成网 125
' c P2 }+ z0 [' T3 a* R 12.2.3 Polymer laid system/聚合物挤压法 125
6 Y. ~3 b5 i$ o$ `0 _ 12.3 Various nonwovens/各种非织造布 125
' k; c0 J* b% E* {) y% W0 Q 12.3.1 Needle punched nonwovens/针刺法非织造布 1251 f, O3 N$ G2 j$ `% d
12.3.2 Bonded web nonwovens/黏合法非织造布 126
, y( P" m5 o! ^" x; _0 i U$ O( U& s; i2 ? 12.3.3 Spunlaced nonwovens/射流喷网法非织造布 127
& z5 x; e3 e1 e. Z, ?7 ] 12.3.4 Spunbonded nonwovens/纺粘法非织造布 128
- ]6 E7 }9 z( l4 U+ a4 n" D 12.3.5 Melt-blown nonwovens/熔喷法非织造布 129
# X0 d. O' s. R! W, C Questions/思考题 1296 \/ h! P0 `, _+ Y
Part Ⅴ Textile Testing/纺织品测试 130
$ S k* W( k. \3 X, I+ J. _ Chapter 13 General Test Methods/常规测试方法 130/ L; a8 U" ?- z" w y& d2 J
13.1 General fiber tests/纤维常规测试 130
, ^& a1 }0 R/ h) _. N% d 13.1.1 Fiber identification/纤维鉴别 130
% M+ t! W% m- ~% D) g/ Z/ s 13.1.2 Fiber length/纤维长度 134! q6 k& U7 q7 e3 B" R& m
13.1.3 Fiber fineness or linear density/纤维细度或线密度 135
: l4 @( b# i( y, d 13.1.4 Cross-sectional shape/截面形状 135
0 x. R; d- r1 t 13.1.5 Crimp/卷曲 135
5 L5 u; Q" j. `% f' v7 t. U/ C 13.1.6 Regain/回潮率 136% q' Q# k( j3 @, A
13.1.7 Mechanical properties/机械性能 136
L. Q% \+ t1 A0 U2 Q 13.1.8 Chemical characteristics/化学性能 136, A3 y/ Q7 u7 C% ?, X/ y9 e
13.1.9 Surface characteristics/表面性能 136( n6 W5 M9 h+ }
13.1.10 Density and specific gravity/密度和相对密度 137
; c- }9 ~) M* d+ A 13.2 Special tests for natural fibers/天然纤维的测试 137
8 c. S2 p% }' a, T, [ 13.2.1 Tests for cotton/棉纤维测试 137/ n) \% s: }# s& d; x, J6 X+ x; }
13.2.2 Tests for wool/毛纤维测试 1392 u2 [' @* D' Q0 l& _
13.3 Testing of tensile properties/拉伸性能测试 140
1 _7 `. q2 k' a: s M 13.3.1 Description of tensile proprieties/拉伸性能的描述 141
5 M% g3 I4 |! t/ z& M0 h K. @1 [ 13.3.2 Fiber and yarn tensile testing/纤维和纱线拉伸性能的测试 146
$ G/ u* Z! z7 x' ]- n 13.3.3 Fabric tensile testing/织物拉伸性能测试方法 147 ~* B3 N1 ?8 t7 u5 R
Questions/思考题 149+ y+ q5 z' v' `( u+ s- }
Chapter 14 Fabric Abrasion and Pilling/织物磨损与起球 150
- |1 R* c* q" \& h7 {% Q' e 14.1 Types of abrasion/磨损的类型 1504 J1 Q! B9 G3 O# f
14.1.1 Abrasion between fabrics/织物间的磨损 150
2 u; C/ u* y6 a2 ~; O$ R 14.1.2 Abrasion between fabric and a nontextile surface/织物与非纤维制品表面磨损 150+ C u, r+ g; o9 w( i7 ]) W
14.1.3 Abrasion within fabric/织物内部磨损 151
+ ~9 V' Q- m! c) k 14.1.4 Abrasion by foreign materials within the fabric/与织物内部其他材料的磨损 1517 V' c% v: G+ t8 N4 G. T
14.2 Factors affecting fabric abrasion resistance/影响耐磨性能的因素 151
& m2 d$ Z. u/ s+ R 14.2.1 Fabric properties/织物性能 1517 O2 d& N6 g: M% {! U( ] C' B
14.2.2 Other factors/其他因素 153) R/ f& Q3 i+ Y$ D
14.3 Abrasion testing/磨损测试 154
5 P4 i# Q# d6 F# {1 ~, j, L9 o 14.3.1 Visual comparison with an unabraded specimen/与未磨损样品视觉对比 154
% }" `1 D1 j: Z8 ^5 c% W 14.3.2 Number of cycles to produce a hole/产生磨损破洞需要的摩擦圈数 1546 G7 N$ Z; F3 V4 y; S. ]
14.3.3 Change in a physical property/物理性能的变化 154. D% h5 h& T( }7 p
14.3.4 Microscopic examination/显微镜观测 155
8 p) V) M) L6 S4 T; ~* v6 [7 d' P 14.4 Aesthetics of abrasion and wear/穿着和磨损对美感的影响 155
/ R, u; d( I P- o 14.4.1 Color changes caused by abrasion/磨损引起的颜色变化 1558 e0 e( e1 k1 U7 d. W8 I. j) Y
14.4.2 Pilling/起球 156& r& _1 V- M w4 b5 ~) @1 ^" C9 i
Questions/思考题 1579 l/ B' e8 i, d* h- f3 L% {
Chapter 15 Fabric Hand and Drape/织物手感与悬垂 158
' X9 y. @1 V% [" h 15.1 Fabric hand/织物手感 158
' W( ]4 z3 C4 r r3 W1 W- ~# R# [) B- M 15.2 Fabric drape/织物悬垂 159
# X0 t2 r# g0 R) K! |1 t$ g. ]6 t+ o 15.3 Measurement of hand and drape/手感与悬垂的评价 161
- I" Y+ @* X2 P6 h; r4 {0 H& o; A 15.3.1 Subjective evaluation/主观评定法 161
/ V1 }3 K$ }. n+ H/ v' h 15.3.2 Quantitative measurement/定量评定法 162/ k0 u C1 x5 V. l
15.3.3 Kawabata evaluation system/KES评定法 163
, O9 Y: h3 R d! ?6 j3 P! t Questions/思考题 163: K8 T; f! s( l* K4 l- U
Chapter 16 Fabric Colorfastness/织物染色牢度 1642 b7 f$ _& J1 d8 O, F& M
16.1 Evaluation of color and colorfastness/颜色和染色牢度评定方法 164
! k# M1 I& @" j) {( m8 O 16.2 Colorfastness tests/染色牢度测试 164
, i, t1 d; [" j, {+ i8 x8 `9 ? 16.2.1 Colorfastness to crocking/耐摩擦色牢度 164( R$ H( y5 p+ @) o+ t5 p0 C/ u0 e- d$ @
16.2.2 Colorfastness to laundering and bleaching/耐洗涤和耐漂白色牢 165
% h) e7 |+ a# c0 d* M! Z 16.2.3 Colorfastness to drycleaning/耐干洗色牢度 166
# i* }' ~/ c6 K6 |6 y 16.2.4 Colorfastness to perspiration/耐汗渍色牢度 166 y' M* e9 z* T4 I& V$ Z- c
16.2.5 Colorfastness to water/耐水浸色牢度 1664 P& w( H t+ v9 J/ J
16.2.6 Colorfastness to light/耐光照色牢度 1674 d* `% U; q3 Y' W# O7 \1 D9 A
16.2.7 Colorfastness to atmospheric contaminants/耐空气污染色牢度 168
" d2 g& n1 a6 s8 \! X# p Questions/思考题 168' _$ y! U! N1 x. J) p
Chapter 17 Fabric Flammability/织物可燃性 169# ], i a$ o4 m7 S" v& I/ o
17.1 Flammability standards/可燃性标准 1695 R1 b; \$ u g+ D7 O1 L% e: x
17.2 Properties affecting flammability/影响可燃性的因素 169$ J1 R w9 `2 z! h6 p
17.3 Flammability testing/可燃性测试 171
. t& B, z" C- `/ g8 | 17.3.1 Forty-five degree angle test/45°燃烧测试法 171
- W9 c: ^. N' ?# v& | 17.3.2 Vertical flame tests/垂直燃烧测试法 172
9 e# p0 k. `( m 17.3.3 Carpet testing/地毯测试 172
( r% d$ E% D5 J, O+ K l 17.3.4 Cigarette tests/卷烟点燃测试 172
6 j, o2 M- P8 b S. m4 U' F$ ` 17.3.5 Other standard flammability tests/其他可燃性测试 173
' S4 T& }! k+ L5 k. o) | Questions/思考题 173
, X0 ^6 [" N- G m1 B4 d, c" _ Chapter 18 Comfort of Textiles/纺织品舒适性 174
# z- w: j/ y9 s: g9 S/ ^ 18.1 Physical phenomena affecting thermal comfort/影响热舒适性能的物理现象 174# P; \" l+ D1 z/ g/ I+ |( q. H6 Y
18.1.1 Heat transfer/热传递 174
& t. Q4 F% X" ^& W5 w 18.1.2 Moisture transfer/湿传递 175
- t1 I6 b y5 ^, S9 w 18.1.3 Water resistance/抗水性 175+ r( u) d& w( K8 W
18.1.4 Air transfer/透气性 176+ x/ n c7 p3 c
18.1.5 Porosity and cover factor/多孔性和覆盖系数 176; O) s w% z& s! f K$ B7 k
18.1.6 Electrostatic propensity/静电 177
9 J1 h* Z. C6 j( f' b7 O+ [ 18.2 Evaluations of textile properties related to comfort/与舒适性相关的纺织品性能评价 177( |" w, N7 |7 d( p8 C# J
18.2.1 Heat transfer/热传递 178
0 k* ~; C5 B1 e% K9 n 18.2.2 Moisture properties/湿传递性能 179
: G. H9 j6 X/ l. n$ N) c# d 18.2.3 Air permeability/透气性 179
* Q; _% m! H% }* E \ 18.2.4 Porosity/孔隙率 180$ {) g: P( V6 u* \! Z
18.2.5 Electrostatic tests/静电测试 1800 w* O& i/ }8 {* M& C
Questions/思考题 180: M3 W8 }6 `" I9 ~& E. g" Q. R8 f0 h
Appendix/附录 181) Q7 P& ]+ e5 x$ a
AATCC:AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS/美国纺织化学家与染色家协会 181
9 W/ P3 h9 I% ~, z& z1 I: N ASTM:AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR TESTING AND MATERIALS/美国材料试验学会 184
2 l3 T9 x) y0 V8 X' c" y; s7 uVocabulary/词汇表 189# @( z/ P# k$ q$ z8 F% j; c) e
References/参考文献 197$ v+ e: C8 ^1 f) |
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