
纺织材料学(双语教材),刘妍,熊磊,PDF。普通高等教育“十一五”国家级规划教材(本科),纺织工程专业双语教材,电子目录,14M。
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$ a$ ], u/ N6 t% v内容提要
) I: ^* z; |: O5 Y5 A0 x: @9 w本书讨论了纤维、纱线与织物(包括机织物、针织物及非织造布)的结构、机械性能、物理性能及使用性能。涉及的纤维势括天然纤维(如棉、毛、麻、丝等)、传统化学纤维及新型化学纤维。本书同时介绍了纤维、纱线和织物的各种标准测试方法(包括国际上常用的ASTM, AATCC及GB等方法),并讨论了与各种测试方法有关的测试原理及对测试结果的影响因素。
! r, x1 g7 w7 `$ K8 N- i' z本书可供高等纺织院校纺织、服装相关专业的本科生及研究生作为《纺织材料学》的双语教材或专业英语教材,也可供其他专业师生、纺织贸易专业人员和科研及生产单位的技术人员参考。
- Y$ k* x% H5 \) A3 C' o* L目录
4 d3 \7 K6 S9 T& f( @5 B4 nPart Ⅰ An Introduction to Textiles/纺织入门 18
$ E2 L8 k3 z* ~* V' z' F Chapter 1 Introduction/介绍 18
' i8 i2 g( y6 l1 b" S 1.1 ASTM Standard Terminology Relating to Textiles/ASTM纺织标准术语 186 e9 }! E! p2 w) C2 ]
1.2 Fiber history/纤维历史 26
D9 F/ R( q! I 1.2.1 Natural fibers/天然纤维 26
! t7 n5 J/ `$ s8 k 1.2.2 Man-made fibers/化学纤维 27! `8 \1 D' Q$ d1 @. {
Questions/思考题 30
+ L0 j, p5 T5 q; PPart Ⅱ Textile Fibers/纺织纤维 32
% N& M- m S6 w x' x8 W5 x0 z Chapter 2 Natural Cellulosic Fibers/天然纤维素纤维 32
9 o2 a# y) `( e# b 2.1 Cotton/棉 33
+ Z/ J1 u* Q$ N' y6 x6 l 2.1.1 Nature of cotton/棉花的种类 33
" [* ]/ ]4 m3 i 2.1.2 Classification/分类 34
7 g# p. j, y6 _! b* g 2.1.3 Growth and structure of cotton/棉纤维的生长与结构 34" d, T+ R3 a( k1 @- F3 }
2.1.4 Maturity/成熟度 36/ n: p5 S+ V7 }% l0 l l; ~! s
2.1.5 Cotton properties/棉纤维的性能 38* ~/ J/ L$ A& t4 V1 F- j+ V: m, w! Q
2.1.6 Cotton classification/棉花分级 39
7 l; p+ d, Q9 F 2.2 Bast fibers/韧皮纤维 40. {' d; t0 T A1 e! G& I
2.2.1 Flax (linen)/亚麻,亚麻织物 41/ u6 H! J% w! G0 ]. R1 G( | J7 \
2.2.2 Ramie/苎麻 43
3 T5 Q6 k0 O4 i5 x 2.2.3 Hemp/汉麻 44
9 b, K& J* [" p# g& L1 Y: g 2.2.4 Jute/黄麻 44+ l2 x: V" h+ c- g, s* s
Questions/思考题 45
! i! }; D% N9 a* Z Chapter 3 Natural Protein Fibers/天然蛋白质纤维 464 B' ^$ ?* H, f$ @2 M$ c
3.1 Wool/绵羊毛 461 V& r# q( T" H
3.1.1 Wool production and history/羊毛生产和历史 46
- D, S" Q6 ?; J# [ 3.1.2 Wool grading/羊毛分级 47
3 @5 C2 v: O4 ^/ J 3.1.3 Wool structure/羊毛结构 47* Z5 l4 Y7 S/ H* z
3.1.4 Wool properties/羊毛性能 48
x% x ?; _7 I$ E/ V0 c 3.2 Specialty animal fibers/特种动物毛 51/ Q2 B3 t5 Q4 E- h
3.3 Silk/丝 52
. p, X3 i6 U6 x5 K Questions/思考题 54
7 V4 C8 i2 S% H7 t$ Z Chapter 4 Man-made Fibers/化学纤维 55$ M+ J( Y2 o) r0 a% w
4.1 Manufacturing processing of fiber/纤维生产工艺 55/ A' \9 j ?9 n) T8 Y& @& m; d
4.1.1 Wet spinning/湿法纺丝 566 r6 {2 H# X- j
4.1.2 Dry spinning/干法纺丝 56- A+ |0 y1 B9 ?/ G1 Q2 K, P
4.1.3 Melt spinning/熔体法纺丝 56
! Z c0 W. k7 x+ C 4.1.4 Gel spinning/凝胶纺丝 57/ D* R1 T! g; Y0 _( A5 [, ]
4.2 Regenerated fibers/再生纤维 577 z& F2 p9 R8 R6 i
4.2.1 Acetate/醋酯纤维 575 s; c5 _5 O [9 f4 a: L9 P
4.2.2 Triacetate/三醋酯纤维 59 A# Y& k% Y ]* w( t/ `* {
4.2.3 Viscose fibers/粘胶纤维 59/ V$ Y; [# `( s3 `
4.3 Synthetic fibers/合成纤维 60' U5 k5 K6 A- A/ F6 f' ~
4.3.1 Acrylic/腈纶 60
( g! ? F- c) Z: g. p u! Q+ N 4.3.2 Modacrylic/改性腈纶 61+ u, N: _, ^5 Z. l3 ^9 v1 g! K
4.3.3 Nylon/锦纶 61
+ v$ }) L" ^+ f; D6 f 4.3.4 Polyester/涤纶 627 {4 {) K. k% t9 _
4.3.5 PBI/聚苯并咪唑纤维 63
/ a) O" h6 Y" ]* Y- R6 u% K 4.3.6 Vinal/聚乙烯醇纤维 63
& Q; D, q! B' b. ~, N 4.3.7 Olefin/聚烯烃纤维 63
% M" v% O% p% x0 B 4.3.8 Aramid/芳纶 64( @. n4 b: T o9 X' E6 A+ _: H7 o
4.3.9 Lycra/莱卡 64& S3 n3 U' Q2 B+ X
4.4 Other man-made fibers/其他化学纤维 66
9 L8 X( m9 V k$ m ~& h" Z. n1 x 4.4.1 Glass/玻璃纤维 66
x! V6 ~9 w" s: U 4.4.2 Metallic/金属纤维 67; G$ i% [7 _1 t6 s7 h% h
Questions/思考题 67
0 F% d. i: V4 U8 d3 U2 [ Chapter 5 New Fibers/新型纤维 68+ E h4 P' [) K0 k1 N+ H* ~
5.1 Carbon fibers/碳纤维 68
& P1 H' }3 G9 W. b 5.2 Fluorocarbon/氟碳纤维 68
3 ?6 H3 Q1 r) s5 B' h) i. t( ~& j3 _ 5.3 Lyocell fibers(Tencel)/莱塞尔纤维 680 `0 o# `; }' I5 j9 G. F
5.4 High-wet-modulus fibers/高湿模量纤维 69" ?, T) \; U% Z- e2 h
5.4.1 Modal fibers/莫代尔纤维 69: ~* O" j9 n7 d0 ?" W' K6 m
5.4.2 Richcel/丽赛纤维 70
4 c2 A) A+ \8 [# W 5.5 Soybean protein composite fibers/大豆蛋白复合纤维 706 _# x/ v# D- l" V" M+ _
5.6 PLA fiber/聚左旋乳酸纤维 71
4 B: T# o4 _( q! _ 5.7 Heterogenous fibers/复合纤维 71
! T# |- K, w" P 5.7.1 Bicomponent or multicomponent/双组分或多组分 72: _- F" b. U& m4 X8 E2 {
5.7.2 Biconstituent or multiconstituent/双成分或多成分 73: N: f; Y7 g6 {
5.7.3 Matrix or matrix-fibril/基质型纤维 73
' Y# y* j8 @2 z" h3 Z$ ` 5.8 Differential fibers/差别化纤维 74$ h) p" Z! t5 |5 @7 Q9 o2 t
5.9 Functional fibers/功能性纤维 74
# J# y" q+ Z9 m" f5 u 5.10 High performance fibers/高性能纤维 74
1 T6 [4 }4 G, t6 p Questions/思考题 74
/ c$ _' }# x# [1 o9 z5 ?6 P8 ]+ S Chapter 6 The Property of Absorbing Moisture/吸湿性 75
% [8 A' C, s& A 6.1 Orientation and crystallization/取向与结晶 75
3 N+ I( f' |( ^6 Y+ x0 G) J 6.2 Moisture sorption/吸湿性 75: m) ?" m5 A" Y( _% J2 T: u7 J
6.2.1 Regain and moisture content/回潮率与含水率 75
5 o3 o/ ], @. P& p! {% Q2 x 6.2.2 Relation between regain and relative humidity/回潮率与相对湿度的关系 75
; n* `9 @" L. m) ^* w 6.2.3 Comparison of various materials/不同材料吸湿性的对比 76
( \; }! |1 B0 ~: E$ { 6.2.4 Theories of moisture sorption/吸湿理论 78
# t( ~; i9 f; [! `2 j" Y. G: G Questions/思考题 80. h0 p' Y6 U$ Q5 z) B& K9 m1 A
Chapter 7 Other Physical Properties of Textile Fibers/纤维的其他物理性能 81
+ A& Y; H. f: s4 r( S; ^9 j5 L0 A 7.1 Electronic properties/电学性能 81% W" A; |( b. x
7.1.1 Definitions/定义 81
7 h j# c. D0 s( P 7.2 Optical properties/光学性能 82* `/ l# j. t$ q7 ]3 W
7.3 Thermal properties/热学性能 83) j3 g9 V' v/ Z4 C
7.3.1 Thermal parameters/热力学参数 83: _ ?- u3 v& Y" W
7.3.2 A comparison of temperature effects/温度效应比较 831 z1 `+ `$ s* P% E0 C
Questions/思考题 83
' ?: K! b0 t5 B7 H1 T3 ]: f& I$ EPart Ⅲ Textile Yarns/纺织纱线 84. h5 U$ z5 B1 C- l0 ^
Chapter 8 Yarn Processing and Construction/纱线制造与结构 84, [+ g: l! Q" W2 K1 I- [) [
8.1 Spun yarns/短纤纱 856 g/ e: w5 C$ z
8.2 Filament yarns/长丝纱 853 j7 f# I5 L2 e k7 {1 x
8.3 Methods of yarn processing/纺纱方法 85
2 m- ^- _5 m! g. k 8.3.1 Ring-spinning/环锭纺 86) w$ v& c; ^/ `: b g
8.3.2 New methods of yarn processing/新型纺纱方法 86
+ \5 W- z# q$ O0 ?5 F: z 8.4 Single and ply yarns/单纱和股线 89
( _% R/ I7 A3 G$ m: f 8.5 Special types of yarn/特种纱线 90
/ f( D: A1 b7 Q0 J- T x+ Y 8.5.1 Fancy yarns/花式纱 909 n0 r. O0 Q$ x, W
8.5.2 Stretch yarns/弹力纱 91
% g8 ?7 b `/ @0 S' d( `9 M 8.5.3 Textured yarns 变形纱线 91
( n- o, T% q3 K' i: a) J' S: c3 [/ [ 8.6 Blends and mixtures yarns/纱线混纺与混用 928 t$ h6 P# ?4 r2 q. `, e! Y# ~
Questions/思考题 93
3 [# m$ ]8 ?2 V( a+ a Chapter 9 Yarn Properties/纱线性能 94
8 E, Q8 J* n! T 9.1 Yarn number/纱线细度 94) O" }: ]0 O4 T2 |9 J
9.1.1 Denier system/旦数 94$ R( k) L1 v& Y
9.1.2 Yarn count system/纱线英制支数 94
4 `( r; |& p. G4 w 9.1.3 Tex system/线密度 955 R# t j# i! J' L( k
9.1.4 Metric numbering system/公制支数 95& `1 R; O6 p' i3 D% e/ O
9.1.5 Conversion in different systems/不同系统之间的换算 95
' m' K8 g9 H+ G 9.2 Ply yarn counts and singles equivalent/股线支数与单纱支数 95
8 h! O3 m6 w# H' Q) u 9.3 Yarn twist/纱线捻度 96. I: M5 ~$ Y* n% h1 B
9.4 Yarn hairiness/纱线毛羽 97- s8 ~ J7 w- R# _4 L3 Q! y
9.4.1 Hairiness test method/毛羽测试方法 98( X3 @$ P* a' I3 C9 N2 g6 Y
9.4.2 Factors affecting hairiness/影响毛羽的因素 98
2 B) K8 M' t/ b4 M 9.5 Yarn unevenness/纱线不匀 99 _+ p$ `' r' t6 ~7 p! m) j2 A
9.5.1 Test of yarn unevenness/纱线不匀的测试 99
) E4 z! `( @3 r6 ], K 9.5.2 Reasons for yarn unevenness/纱线不匀的原因 100
0 t! b k) m) }$ [6 N% m- ~ 9.6 Classification of yarn quality/纱线质量分析 100
- c$ ~! z3 O! G( R) k) Q" K Questions/思考题 100
8 [7 v$ K& |8 Q2 A+ z, DPart Ⅳ Textile Fabrics/织物 102
# E1 I' Z9 r0 U( I) l# ]/ W2 f Chapter 10 Woven Fabrics/机织物 102. w+ w q5 _4 s' @% |8 _% z
10.1 Making woven fabrics/织制机织物 1027 T- W3 I8 A) i; b& f% O
10.1.1 The loom/织机 102
" l/ k* i: w7 g% `& W5 v/ C 10.1.2 Loom type/织机类型 104
5 y3 M8 L" f5 |: S' O 10.1.3 Loom motions/织机运动 1045 H( e5 @. D- F3 U* G7 @
10.1.4 Electronics in weaving/电子技术在织机中的应用 105+ x# r {$ K0 [( q
10.1.5 The selvage/布边 105
+ ]6 k5 x7 U4 ^ b5 O 10.2 Warp yarns and filling yarns/经纱和纬纱 105
/ S+ I! z# K0 _( l- \/ v! E; a4 f5 X 10.2.1 Identification/鉴别 106# W: `/ d/ ?) C$ S r0 n# H1 {
10.3 Face and back/正面与反面 106
* d6 m4 ?% D( l8 V0 Q3 D8 I 10.3.1 Reasons for differenee/存在差异的原因 107( ]( G/ F7 g1 @ e2 n
10.3.2 Caution/应用的要点 107
" Z! E9 u/ _" M: N. I 10.4 Top and bottom/顶端和底端 107
" c* r6 C+ N9 n D' W& ?/ e 10.4.1 Reasons for difference/存在差异的原因 107
; `: I7 e2 j4 h7 ^ 10.5 Weave floats/组织浮线 108: S! ?! G9 I. k6 t4 O# K1 P! B& t! i
10.6 Basic weaves/基本组织 1087 @! ~7 C+ O* d& t: ~
10.6.1 Plain weave/平纹组织 108$ s$ w; }2 L4 z' ?' }! v4 K: i
10.6.2 Twill weave/斜纹组织 109
! A" R6 V2 z3 B0 U 10.6.3 Satin weave/缎纹组织 111" J% B0 l9 P9 L( ?' [$ F
10.7 Fabric performance and characteristics/织物性能和参数 112) G2 e' R0 ?- \: y
10.7.1 Fabric width/幅宽 112
! H5 N, N; {* Y0 a3 K5 B0 l 10.7.2 Fabric weight/织物重量 1124 `& Z/ F5 c9 p- E
10.7.3 Fabric thickness/织物厚度 113
+ }. a, I! Y, ^% d0 e( p 10.7.4 Fabric density/织物密度 113% S5 F6 R1 [4 `( v$ D2 N
10.7.5 Fabric count/织物经纬密度 113
0 T& O, L5 g- ~7 } 10.7.6 Fabric defects/织物疵点 113
3 {! e! ]2 v/ E2 R- ] Questions/思考题 113
0 D$ K( u" h; m I O* a, j5 p' P Chapter 11 Knitted Fabrics/针织物 1142 D! v n5 a' d' |- ~
11.1 Making of knitted fabric/针织物形成 114/ h( w7 b' X7 b
11.1.1 The forming of knitted stitches/线圈的形成 1145 z- j( o; k5 `$ I( N8 z
11.1.2 Types of knitted stitches/线圈的种类 116
( Z! o( m; N% X! ~) k 11.2 Weft knits/纬编针织物 117
3 n6 C, T1 l0 Z 11.2.1 Jersey knit fabric/纬平针织物 117
. h: r5 Y4 n- M; Q4 g- p# c3 z$ g2 s 11.2.2 Rib knit fabric/罗纹针织物 118) D& _1 \: D4 f1 N4 m
11.2.3 Purl knit fabric/双反面针织物 119
# u0 N! t E. q3 V 11.2.4 Double knits/双面针织物 120
% d3 c. {& C" }, w6 v! i 11.2.5 Full-fashioned knits/全成形针织物 120
2 ^9 L* v. l# J7 p 11.3 Warp knits/经编针织物 121. j. A7 j6 C) B* X' w
11.3.1 Tricot fabrics/特里科经编针织物 121+ @. }9 w+ w. |
11.3.2 Raschel fabrics/拉舍尔经编针织物 1226 U* e- b) B& j; X8 ]3 j
11.4 Performance and characteristics/性能和参数 122
" G% ~+ n0 I q: G" v Questions/思考题 123& d/ J, d9 y, ~2 o' A4 [
Chapter 12 Nonwoven Fabrics/非织造布 124# R! K0 b2 a3 l5 c- `2 M0 `# C
12.1 Introduction/导论 124 _/ C8 C2 i3 t3 @- l2 `9 j5 a+ i
12.2 Manufacturing methods/生产方法 125. \2 A( t9 X9 Q2 x
12.2.1 Dry laid system/干法成网 125
2 G- _3 Q7 w" c, o; L 12.2.2 Wet laid system/湿法成网 125
$ I7 f9 i: [# O% F7 ~% M8 w 12.2.3 Polymer laid system/聚合物挤压法 1251 z' i$ W. L0 i& P
12.3 Various nonwovens/各种非织造布 125& I% r) Q/ ~5 j4 b8 i$ {; \5 |- ]
12.3.1 Needle punched nonwovens/针刺法非织造布 125# V+ Q; b4 u' D2 z# U! c
12.3.2 Bonded web nonwovens/黏合法非织造布 126. w; ~8 C/ Q" h9 O5 U0 f7 b% [6 s
12.3.3 Spunlaced nonwovens/射流喷网法非织造布 127/ z4 t4 e: P1 F7 N6 M
12.3.4 Spunbonded nonwovens/纺粘法非织造布 128 E/ C o$ p2 V' }) r
12.3.5 Melt-blown nonwovens/熔喷法非织造布 129
% H) O4 D2 X o" \7 ~( o/ f: F( ^# i Questions/思考题 129
9 H0 y# B: @( tPart Ⅴ Textile Testing/纺织品测试 130
: P5 v/ T6 L8 C& V8 n Chapter 13 General Test Methods/常规测试方法 130
5 v: |: ~: x, O' ] 13.1 General fiber tests/纤维常规测试 130# y( H9 u! u* ]1 a5 Q
13.1.1 Fiber identification/纤维鉴别 130
) }7 F6 o' m' B: _& A2 P* l 13.1.2 Fiber length/纤维长度 1344 ` d: r' z1 c$ D2 \3 ^
13.1.3 Fiber fineness or linear density/纤维细度或线密度 135
2 g. y5 G: b5 L" e' L8 c4 J3 V8 N( p 13.1.4 Cross-sectional shape/截面形状 135 h" f) N2 f4 [. g, K4 L
13.1.5 Crimp/卷曲 135
: L1 p/ p! N( N/ K$ i* {. S) b 13.1.6 Regain/回潮率 136% N1 x( K6 g- i+ a" h* x& `7 W
13.1.7 Mechanical properties/机械性能 136
9 O8 \% I2 U5 [. u% U0 m/ M8 W+ p 13.1.8 Chemical characteristics/化学性能 1364 f& W1 `( G5 |& r& @# s3 s1 Y
13.1.9 Surface characteristics/表面性能 136% v2 n7 w. Y# r5 @% P \1 d
13.1.10 Density and specific gravity/密度和相对密度 137- B0 Y/ y' J% `7 |( L
13.2 Special tests for natural fibers/天然纤维的测试 137
: I7 X: a9 b0 x- V( P3 C8 F/ T 13.2.1 Tests for cotton/棉纤维测试 137
" x- n3 x. C: N' m( ^5 R 13.2.2 Tests for wool/毛纤维测试 139
! H1 I2 x/ w; o5 T; U 13.3 Testing of tensile properties/拉伸性能测试 140" }! C4 d5 H6 ?6 W" R% p8 H* R4 ?
13.3.1 Description of tensile proprieties/拉伸性能的描述 141
, z+ H) D+ t7 \+ H 13.3.2 Fiber and yarn tensile testing/纤维和纱线拉伸性能的测试 1461 B3 m& D7 A c7 Q- U3 \
13.3.3 Fabric tensile testing/织物拉伸性能测试方法 147
1 Z1 j2 r2 t$ Y1 q- M4 p1 L; l! g Questions/思考题 149
+ ], X5 i4 R8 T5 _0 W Chapter 14 Fabric Abrasion and Pilling/织物磨损与起球 150
+ ^2 J! M1 C7 P: ? 14.1 Types of abrasion/磨损的类型 150
2 ]) |1 R6 W0 ?2 m/ c 14.1.1 Abrasion between fabrics/织物间的磨损 150
" D/ K9 j) c! A 14.1.2 Abrasion between fabric and a nontextile surface/织物与非纤维制品表面磨损 150 q, Z" O5 }, t: h' J& o
14.1.3 Abrasion within fabric/织物内部磨损 151
& k4 a9 i; {3 |+ ^ 14.1.4 Abrasion by foreign materials within the fabric/与织物内部其他材料的磨损 151
^/ K! r& ]0 E4 c 14.2 Factors affecting fabric abrasion resistance/影响耐磨性能的因素 151
' s/ c" L* F( \ B0 ~ 14.2.1 Fabric properties/织物性能 151
$ S$ {4 b- T: U6 z+ M9 H 14.2.2 Other factors/其他因素 1538 T P5 w3 i7 k$ _
14.3 Abrasion testing/磨损测试 154! X! w6 b# i+ u( U$ Z5 D& p5 T9 E
14.3.1 Visual comparison with an unabraded specimen/与未磨损样品视觉对比 154. m9 G1 W, n/ k- W" C
14.3.2 Number of cycles to produce a hole/产生磨损破洞需要的摩擦圈数 1542 i4 ]( t+ ~& ~% O" q
14.3.3 Change in a physical property/物理性能的变化 154
% d1 j6 v e* y 14.3.4 Microscopic examination/显微镜观测 155
5 v: d) y; \$ q: V# Z% a 14.4 Aesthetics of abrasion and wear/穿着和磨损对美感的影响 1559 U: @. {2 r1 k3 F N
14.4.1 Color changes caused by abrasion/磨损引起的颜色变化 1555 `( _7 v c9 t! H& z D0 r/ Y
14.4.2 Pilling/起球 156
! ]9 h7 M) \8 I8 I) u Questions/思考题 157! F: w8 d5 s2 d, D' r7 Z
Chapter 15 Fabric Hand and Drape/织物手感与悬垂 158
& T* ?, ~* i2 e$ a4 C 15.1 Fabric hand/织物手感 158
V& |% C B. Y& O0 ]" y) } 15.2 Fabric drape/织物悬垂 159! q3 v3 A1 p. O) c
15.3 Measurement of hand and drape/手感与悬垂的评价 161' T9 {; q; A$ A9 o3 ]2 O+ W9 c
15.3.1 Subjective evaluation/主观评定法 1614 H0 |( |9 V! ~9 k
15.3.2 Quantitative measurement/定量评定法 162" X7 S$ i6 ^5 P" S% H! g* {
15.3.3 Kawabata evaluation system/KES评定法 163
: d W9 D7 X$ t/ w" G& _ Questions/思考题 163% v* Z: \. G+ C- L7 u! ?
Chapter 16 Fabric Colorfastness/织物染色牢度 164
5 w& A5 ~% Z( s' O1 L0 S 16.1 Evaluation of color and colorfastness/颜色和染色牢度评定方法 1644 K0 v$ k$ M8 w. C* E" R: g
16.2 Colorfastness tests/染色牢度测试 1640 e M1 p1 c' r
16.2.1 Colorfastness to crocking/耐摩擦色牢度 164
9 [8 q& u/ ?) O' ]) @8 i# i 16.2.2 Colorfastness to laundering and bleaching/耐洗涤和耐漂白色牢 165
* f1 V9 s8 W5 s7 D( g 16.2.3 Colorfastness to drycleaning/耐干洗色牢度 166
2 w% R- q+ v( ?, z* p" ~% J 16.2.4 Colorfastness to perspiration/耐汗渍色牢度 166) x: T5 J2 l d, j/ V
16.2.5 Colorfastness to water/耐水浸色牢度 166
( d. \. t) \) U2 s1 n0 q5 E: Q# c, C$ u 16.2.6 Colorfastness to light/耐光照色牢度 167
% ~% e" i F: r, ~9 B3 P 16.2.7 Colorfastness to atmospheric contaminants/耐空气污染色牢度 168
2 i% _. O6 g g) j5 K Questions/思考题 1680 C" H! H( H. j' x" @6 D& W! ?7 s
Chapter 17 Fabric Flammability/织物可燃性 169% y4 ~* A/ y7 w. o
17.1 Flammability standards/可燃性标准 169- m3 p3 F7 a* }1 R* H
17.2 Properties affecting flammability/影响可燃性的因素 1693 Q9 Q5 q; y4 z$ f/ z
17.3 Flammability testing/可燃性测试 171# ~! u: ]# G. e7 q( t3 ?1 o
17.3.1 Forty-five degree angle test/45°燃烧测试法 1718 V; l+ C" M+ V/ T9 m- b
17.3.2 Vertical flame tests/垂直燃烧测试法 1722 b I- ~1 Y# H
17.3.3 Carpet testing/地毯测试 172/ S. X/ Y1 `4 C1 G; ], J6 t
17.3.4 Cigarette tests/卷烟点燃测试 172
; H$ d" H6 y/ \$ J$ h 17.3.5 Other standard flammability tests/其他可燃性测试 173
O. d. [. A3 x* ? Questions/思考题 1732 K( x5 v) c3 W, c. p
Chapter 18 Comfort of Textiles/纺织品舒适性 174: h& a5 c4 Q, f* w6 ]2 a
18.1 Physical phenomena affecting thermal comfort/影响热舒适性能的物理现象 174
% d) ^$ [ U s1 x5 A% Q% s; P, F0 r 18.1.1 Heat transfer/热传递 174
# Z4 t3 ~2 j, _7 N" } 18.1.2 Moisture transfer/湿传递 175
6 f( R( G# w" O, B5 F3 y 18.1.3 Water resistance/抗水性 175
- d$ }* S0 D! L* G8 W 18.1.4 Air transfer/透气性 176
1 D8 [2 x8 ?: [ 18.1.5 Porosity and cover factor/多孔性和覆盖系数 176
& G8 V: P9 {1 U8 v6 }) B 18.1.6 Electrostatic propensity/静电 177
) S- h# x: f( D7 b7 W1 B 18.2 Evaluations of textile properties related to comfort/与舒适性相关的纺织品性能评价 177: i- [- x' Q- B/ P) J& P. ?
18.2.1 Heat transfer/热传递 178
3 K' m7 m8 y. p; j1 f 18.2.2 Moisture properties/湿传递性能 1790 A0 r. W( O) z/ W6 v& F
18.2.3 Air permeability/透气性 179
1 c. f- t) H, L8 Q! y& p 18.2.4 Porosity/孔隙率 180
: m7 z4 q M4 ~ 18.2.5 Electrostatic tests/静电测试 180
4 b6 a l6 }" O: G Questions/思考题 180% ?1 n& \8 c, y; g( t7 H( t
Appendix/附录 181/ i0 k. ^" U1 N: G: r) f! C
AATCC:AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS/美国纺织化学家与染色家协会 181
& r2 p2 J7 W, Q$ r ASTM:AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR TESTING AND MATERIALS/美国材料试验学会 184/ T+ \! v4 e( z0 O% l) b
Vocabulary/词汇表 189
$ x) j: \" C/ D( {References/参考文献 1979 Q# e4 p: o" V
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