
纺织材料学(双语教材),刘妍,熊磊,PDF。普通高等教育“十一五”国家级规划教材(本科),纺织工程专业双语教材,电子目录,14M。
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内容提要( \- ^; A9 Z) U' K$ ^
本书讨论了纤维、纱线与织物(包括机织物、针织物及非织造布)的结构、机械性能、物理性能及使用性能。涉及的纤维势括天然纤维(如棉、毛、麻、丝等)、传统化学纤维及新型化学纤维。本书同时介绍了纤维、纱线和织物的各种标准测试方法(包括国际上常用的ASTM, AATCC及GB等方法),并讨论了与各种测试方法有关的测试原理及对测试结果的影响因素。
/ Q- E5 }+ H! _) P( W% |4 }本书可供高等纺织院校纺织、服装相关专业的本科生及研究生作为《纺织材料学》的双语教材或专业英语教材,也可供其他专业师生、纺织贸易专业人员和科研及生产单位的技术人员参考。
5 V6 y. c& C6 T' ?5 t) g+ X目录/ k: d B# S5 J, r( r
Part Ⅰ An Introduction to Textiles/纺织入门 18
" Y+ I( L: ^5 `- L4 t3 K; n( s Chapter 1 Introduction/介绍 18
4 K4 V- ]( l8 o5 z 1.1 ASTM Standard Terminology Relating to Textiles/ASTM纺织标准术语 18* k" h# z; g8 w; }, I3 L* G5 R
1.2 Fiber history/纤维历史 26
% T+ ?6 F) z) b3 |9 g; c 1.2.1 Natural fibers/天然纤维 264 j9 n; t* j$ P: \ J2 N
1.2.2 Man-made fibers/化学纤维 279 J. X/ P1 w+ r: J" D* d
Questions/思考题 30* H5 M* Q" o; u% z/ S
Part Ⅱ Textile Fibers/纺织纤维 32
7 Z9 J+ j) F8 H. I: Y Chapter 2 Natural Cellulosic Fibers/天然纤维素纤维 32
) M# G- S2 C* G% F 2.1 Cotton/棉 33- B# @! p+ ^' [, j% \, U" o
2.1.1 Nature of cotton/棉花的种类 330 W$ v: \4 a" u, v: X
2.1.2 Classification/分类 34+ b9 p e5 x( h/ K; D
2.1.3 Growth and structure of cotton/棉纤维的生长与结构 345 F. D) P& s7 }0 v
2.1.4 Maturity/成熟度 36
# Z0 G# `8 t1 w" p: S 2.1.5 Cotton properties/棉纤维的性能 386 ]- [# t& X: g' r8 b1 b" V" {
2.1.6 Cotton classification/棉花分级 39
# T: S2 M; m5 H8 Z5 @) ~; x 2.2 Bast fibers/韧皮纤维 40, F5 @, {( x0 s& m5 K( D4 P) i
2.2.1 Flax (linen)/亚麻,亚麻织物 419 a K" p' u. }* u a
2.2.2 Ramie/苎麻 43
# p9 _# i! X6 m+ T 2.2.3 Hemp/汉麻 44) N5 L/ R, q; y1 k
2.2.4 Jute/黄麻 44
- |: n4 D/ s F9 e Questions/思考题 451 d7 d8 C5 I! f- |) y m0 p0 z1 h
Chapter 3 Natural Protein Fibers/天然蛋白质纤维 46" i, Y$ W' o V3 ]8 t1 B
3.1 Wool/绵羊毛 46$ t7 @4 {( l" [
3.1.1 Wool production and history/羊毛生产和历史 46
8 l! W& V; y0 [9 a8 [3 G% k 3.1.2 Wool grading/羊毛分级 47
+ s: `! z0 V( b* K& Z1 M5 {- i 3.1.3 Wool structure/羊毛结构 47
5 {$ q" P9 E) |. ]5 _9 B 3.1.4 Wool properties/羊毛性能 48
1 J0 W8 l4 P# \0 g- | 3.2 Specialty animal fibers/特种动物毛 51
! i6 `. y% h8 l* Z4 Z- Y. \ 3.3 Silk/丝 52
! K1 ]% z! h& H5 H. w Questions/思考题 54% z& u( d- V5 n- m; h) m
Chapter 4 Man-made Fibers/化学纤维 55
9 \$ H5 r: R& D) P% f 4.1 Manufacturing processing of fiber/纤维生产工艺 557 }' ?% s* C! j1 _/ N/ [
4.1.1 Wet spinning/湿法纺丝 56" y! {) c) R M' v w: Z c+ }4 M
4.1.2 Dry spinning/干法纺丝 56* g; D" l8 k3 m1 u; H$ P
4.1.3 Melt spinning/熔体法纺丝 564 r" ?# C9 b3 @8 e) V
4.1.4 Gel spinning/凝胶纺丝 57 J9 S/ j: ^0 R
4.2 Regenerated fibers/再生纤维 57) Q+ A# ]1 ^5 _3 S3 Z; r
4.2.1 Acetate/醋酯纤维 572 _* ~$ y4 F3 L3 r) `3 f2 N7 @6 \
4.2.2 Triacetate/三醋酯纤维 59- z' v8 S1 r; y- O) |
4.2.3 Viscose fibers/粘胶纤维 597 }4 \; o. B5 H
4.3 Synthetic fibers/合成纤维 60
1 d5 Y+ [) X! x& M 4.3.1 Acrylic/腈纶 601 C3 U) @" q- e# g/ t# h3 H
4.3.2 Modacrylic/改性腈纶 61
: a+ N+ Q9 }5 ?6 l, | 4.3.3 Nylon/锦纶 616 z2 ]& O) s( y' F$ D
4.3.4 Polyester/涤纶 62
]* Z' L [+ Q) W9 L" F& w. V 4.3.5 PBI/聚苯并咪唑纤维 63+ |( X9 @6 W% c
4.3.6 Vinal/聚乙烯醇纤维 637 q$ v6 L% i, q& l* u: M
4.3.7 Olefin/聚烯烃纤维 630 r. \6 T5 E/ N
4.3.8 Aramid/芳纶 64
( U0 P+ J, K" L4 U/ t 4.3.9 Lycra/莱卡 64
! U8 Q/ _; Y7 G, o- |1 ^/ V& {: I 4.4 Other man-made fibers/其他化学纤维 66- l( m# D* J2 A9 E
4.4.1 Glass/玻璃纤维 66) t. |$ Q0 o( G1 l$ e( a7 }( n
4.4.2 Metallic/金属纤维 678 @2 w6 I! l3 V2 N7 p6 v* @7 u- z
Questions/思考题 67( R2 i& g' u, k C- ^/ C
Chapter 5 New Fibers/新型纤维 68
6 [3 P" j7 K% u2 y 5.1 Carbon fibers/碳纤维 68" \7 n4 Y" O- Q+ T
5.2 Fluorocarbon/氟碳纤维 68% u) P8 b- C; Y
5.3 Lyocell fibers(Tencel)/莱塞尔纤维 68 } o* o: a' K4 F r1 D
5.4 High-wet-modulus fibers/高湿模量纤维 69" Y; B) x& V# }* I7 X" Y) M+ q
5.4.1 Modal fibers/莫代尔纤维 69
% V8 X, e% o3 p/ l* C" _2 P 5.4.2 Richcel/丽赛纤维 70
: j% z; r+ T- l) x$ A7 H: g/ c 5.5 Soybean protein composite fibers/大豆蛋白复合纤维 70; O4 j8 k! a" g& k% ^
5.6 PLA fiber/聚左旋乳酸纤维 71
2 I5 e$ P! D* U6 W; a& P( x5 l 5.7 Heterogenous fibers/复合纤维 719 _" x" F A4 a
5.7.1 Bicomponent or multicomponent/双组分或多组分 72! D) N: L( ]0 n) s- `* ]
5.7.2 Biconstituent or multiconstituent/双成分或多成分 73
0 L6 e- B5 O, e 5.7.3 Matrix or matrix-fibril/基质型纤维 737 g. Q H- v( t+ G9 {
5.8 Differential fibers/差别化纤维 74" K. m4 q/ q5 D' i
5.9 Functional fibers/功能性纤维 744 M0 s: T8 p0 R3 M1 ^) H
5.10 High performance fibers/高性能纤维 74
6 a. i P' U- B1 \6 u Questions/思考题 74: L; i. k, \8 ~. b- Y# p7 r$ c7 q
Chapter 6 The Property of Absorbing Moisture/吸湿性 75% {# o. Q' T N. F
6.1 Orientation and crystallization/取向与结晶 75' \1 {. C" u J( ~! i
6.2 Moisture sorption/吸湿性 75& P, O, z7 w/ m5 o5 v
6.2.1 Regain and moisture content/回潮率与含水率 75) `) ^7 k' |6 k: B ?- l8 V
6.2.2 Relation between regain and relative humidity/回潮率与相对湿度的关系 75* c* H7 K8 y; j8 n
6.2.3 Comparison of various materials/不同材料吸湿性的对比 764 l% N8 Y7 T( ~/ |+ h }) W u2 m% ~
6.2.4 Theories of moisture sorption/吸湿理论 78* }+ O& W" Q1 b# P4 K
Questions/思考题 80
! l8 P6 e4 ^1 g$ x0 o Chapter 7 Other Physical Properties of Textile Fibers/纤维的其他物理性能 81
$ y2 R' B. k: t ~$ Z$ _ 7.1 Electronic properties/电学性能 81, w. z% X8 T. s* v$ U2 z
7.1.1 Definitions/定义 81! d) `* Q5 N: ~
7.2 Optical properties/光学性能 82) q- ^4 N8 @. o4 B P/ |
7.3 Thermal properties/热学性能 83! M a0 b/ p$ d; N, Z5 f* k' S- t5 r
7.3.1 Thermal parameters/热力学参数 83
# D# R) j: @7 s- W- H7 k 7.3.2 A comparison of temperature effects/温度效应比较 83
- Q( o2 u1 j! i4 w* n9 @: V' ^ Questions/思考题 83
1 Y. I p# \6 }. o' a! s9 {* S* ~Part Ⅲ Textile Yarns/纺织纱线 84% [3 m" w' u! i( ]# v4 @
Chapter 8 Yarn Processing and Construction/纱线制造与结构 84 F" V& V J: r% V5 h) t
8.1 Spun yarns/短纤纱 85/ ^7 A0 F- p" |
8.2 Filament yarns/长丝纱 85
9 }1 |8 i5 d1 b j' Y; }* y 8.3 Methods of yarn processing/纺纱方法 85
2 A; v6 I: o: e: ~- N/ I* |9 g 8.3.1 Ring-spinning/环锭纺 86
$ I* M6 K A6 g$ \: y) N, ~* w 8.3.2 New methods of yarn processing/新型纺纱方法 86
& Y9 ?# m6 a: U/ D0 S% ^* ^ 8.4 Single and ply yarns/单纱和股线 89
9 M0 ^# C! O& n* v' B6 V 8.5 Special types of yarn/特种纱线 908 z d# R7 r4 I: W& O. J4 }% e
8.5.1 Fancy yarns/花式纱 90# m! ?& z l( N3 t5 A8 N
8.5.2 Stretch yarns/弹力纱 91- Z: b& ^0 z" J* B1 b
8.5.3 Textured yarns 变形纱线 91
2 c k2 j) i$ [* a! Y7 G4 F 8.6 Blends and mixtures yarns/纱线混纺与混用 923 u! C- w$ X/ I% ?$ \ T5 D
Questions/思考题 93
1 ?/ O9 x4 x+ y$ e" f, @ Chapter 9 Yarn Properties/纱线性能 94
& u( \6 t$ y' A 9.1 Yarn number/纱线细度 94
; Y: q) [* c/ H0 M 9.1.1 Denier system/旦数 94) b& _% Z! E, E, v9 X
9.1.2 Yarn count system/纱线英制支数 94
- A) @$ o# {7 m 9.1.3 Tex system/线密度 95
' v# Q2 l# j+ [6 b% { 9.1.4 Metric numbering system/公制支数 95' F; H7 ?* \/ R
9.1.5 Conversion in different systems/不同系统之间的换算 95
9 R) L7 @" T5 W# d0 C 9.2 Ply yarn counts and singles equivalent/股线支数与单纱支数 95' y+ g! T* p( F" `$ u% v
9.3 Yarn twist/纱线捻度 96* o5 M1 A5 Q8 D' }$ M% P
9.4 Yarn hairiness/纱线毛羽 97
% S; Y4 w' x# M 9.4.1 Hairiness test method/毛羽测试方法 98" @8 r. }$ e& s4 Z$ ]
9.4.2 Factors affecting hairiness/影响毛羽的因素 989 v. |5 n1 R* n- B7 ^; w* x+ L
9.5 Yarn unevenness/纱线不匀 99
3 O3 U+ c5 g* ?$ L 9.5.1 Test of yarn unevenness/纱线不匀的测试 99! a4 D/ o8 l, I
9.5.2 Reasons for yarn unevenness/纱线不匀的原因 100
% E1 Z8 p7 y4 v2 d9 i 9.6 Classification of yarn quality/纱线质量分析 100' s( \% Y& f% U! s3 s
Questions/思考题 100- b2 ~; A1 [5 b4 }0 ]% e
Part Ⅳ Textile Fabrics/织物 102" m% s* J8 P4 Y0 M
Chapter 10 Woven Fabrics/机织物 102: _& n% _4 \* _5 x* c& P' j/ q
10.1 Making woven fabrics/织制机织物 102$ r" v- r- A/ Z# x
10.1.1 The loom/织机 102
& u* ^% ^. B5 S; b 10.1.2 Loom type/织机类型 1048 v0 e3 m& B, D6 t) r! k
10.1.3 Loom motions/织机运动 104
' B2 k: U. K) d( S) P 10.1.4 Electronics in weaving/电子技术在织机中的应用 105& r. f3 j% ^4 m2 f& r8 k. q0 }7 k# m
10.1.5 The selvage/布边 1051 |+ l6 O _) @2 h- c7 Q
10.2 Warp yarns and filling yarns/经纱和纬纱 105
! W* c+ \' t9 u. w& p+ C! i7 W 10.2.1 Identification/鉴别 1061 r* Z3 {" f3 Z! } G" H
10.3 Face and back/正面与反面 106
' P! @* W( R. o1 Q) s) o3 k$ j 10.3.1 Reasons for differenee/存在差异的原因 107
- |: `& x/ T" K6 S6 V 10.3.2 Caution/应用的要点 107
8 b4 ?" M! I0 t0 _. J* O 10.4 Top and bottom/顶端和底端 1071 g* T0 i! o, y# ?
10.4.1 Reasons for difference/存在差异的原因 107! p1 n# A$ ]$ W5 c" `
10.5 Weave floats/组织浮线 108
) I6 \' l. I7 }& {! j 10.6 Basic weaves/基本组织 1087 A! r, G8 V7 ? P8 G( }/ Z
10.6.1 Plain weave/平纹组织 1081 M6 k$ X6 C% J i
10.6.2 Twill weave/斜纹组织 109& U# L7 ^$ y7 h" Y) R, C
10.6.3 Satin weave/缎纹组织 111
L7 j- a1 l: I8 O N6 H$ \ 10.7 Fabric performance and characteristics/织物性能和参数 112+ e$ }* G( c" x
10.7.1 Fabric width/幅宽 112& I+ z9 |2 X8 f. ?' ~5 ^6 b5 {' W
10.7.2 Fabric weight/织物重量 1127 w2 Q+ s1 D; I8 |- d6 o8 T
10.7.3 Fabric thickness/织物厚度 113
4 I h) F# H1 a5 r 10.7.4 Fabric density/织物密度 1134 k8 G! [# ? ~
10.7.5 Fabric count/织物经纬密度 113
1 G% ], v2 J: \! e+ }" Q' P 10.7.6 Fabric defects/织物疵点 113
6 k6 O/ y& T8 l6 ^ Questions/思考题 113 K: N$ x% `& E X6 Y+ J- H, N
Chapter 11 Knitted Fabrics/针织物 114) D* u- a4 b7 s6 v
11.1 Making of knitted fabric/针织物形成 114
% R4 H- r4 c1 {2 G 11.1.1 The forming of knitted stitches/线圈的形成 114
9 w2 ~' [. }( ?& b 11.1.2 Types of knitted stitches/线圈的种类 116& V$ o: }' G. T
11.2 Weft knits/纬编针织物 117
; B4 K& A$ v) r( H+ A* f2 H# q 11.2.1 Jersey knit fabric/纬平针织物 117
2 K4 \+ z+ ^4 K ^2 q- L6 v- l 11.2.2 Rib knit fabric/罗纹针织物 118
/ o* Q ]. d1 j3 l0 ~' Y4 Z1 ] 11.2.3 Purl knit fabric/双反面针织物 1193 \5 `, Y2 _" ^! i: i
11.2.4 Double knits/双面针织物 120. L( I! X9 n$ u) {
11.2.5 Full-fashioned knits/全成形针织物 120+ [: D; C M* s3 a& d3 b
11.3 Warp knits/经编针织物 121
: c! `$ z0 ^/ [! f7 E% @3 b. C 11.3.1 Tricot fabrics/特里科经编针织物 1214 a8 J2 Q& M) d: S0 [
11.3.2 Raschel fabrics/拉舍尔经编针织物 122/ [! `4 Y/ j( k5 m- z4 e- M9 x7 V
11.4 Performance and characteristics/性能和参数 122
# E, k! K- j, t5 n% u Questions/思考题 123
. m O1 E# L5 T1 k5 W Chapter 12 Nonwoven Fabrics/非织造布 124) Y- @* e! {* M0 y' S# q8 p
12.1 Introduction/导论 124
# i; m9 G# \- ^" N# N/ z' b 12.2 Manufacturing methods/生产方法 125% j- q1 ]! t; p* _8 ?. D& e
12.2.1 Dry laid system/干法成网 125, _% C- v+ m Y0 y, E7 |+ g* R
12.2.2 Wet laid system/湿法成网 125
$ V7 v$ P# [- f 12.2.3 Polymer laid system/聚合物挤压法 1252 V. ^! _# l4 K% u6 c) f0 c( N- i+ b
12.3 Various nonwovens/各种非织造布 125$ T) a2 T& n) i" n
12.3.1 Needle punched nonwovens/针刺法非织造布 125
) I' j$ w! I' X7 j 12.3.2 Bonded web nonwovens/黏合法非织造布 126- K4 h l1 _& {3 E% E( ]
12.3.3 Spunlaced nonwovens/射流喷网法非织造布 127) A; V9 B1 e7 o3 F s, ~
12.3.4 Spunbonded nonwovens/纺粘法非织造布 128# v7 z! F5 R3 }( I5 }! Z; i7 D! G g- J0 \
12.3.5 Melt-blown nonwovens/熔喷法非织造布 129' H* E) b. A) u- E( U
Questions/思考题 129
; t3 ?" _" z9 k! x/ O! B b! [Part Ⅴ Textile Testing/纺织品测试 1306 A( _, w- |1 [
Chapter 13 General Test Methods/常规测试方法 130' z& |, d4 T! Y; g2 J7 X: `3 d/ b
13.1 General fiber tests/纤维常规测试 130
8 A( `5 A' f+ J& s, U8 @$ |+ J, t 13.1.1 Fiber identification/纤维鉴别 130/ ^ P/ i) Q N7 A# R3 ~6 r
13.1.2 Fiber length/纤维长度 134) x6 U$ t2 v$ R% M
13.1.3 Fiber fineness or linear density/纤维细度或线密度 135+ \7 m, F1 Z% O5 w
13.1.4 Cross-sectional shape/截面形状 135) z4 q5 x! U. n. f" _' B
13.1.5 Crimp/卷曲 135
7 m3 f5 k4 Y$ }$ O 13.1.6 Regain/回潮率 136/ P; y8 W+ Z3 t' g
13.1.7 Mechanical properties/机械性能 136( y# ]3 ^2 F# k5 n! `
13.1.8 Chemical characteristics/化学性能 136
$ t" J$ F' T2 y/ J 13.1.9 Surface characteristics/表面性能 136& D3 B% e0 F# d6 @6 Q
13.1.10 Density and specific gravity/密度和相对密度 137
, J# e+ w- X8 e! X3 |) o8 Z 13.2 Special tests for natural fibers/天然纤维的测试 137, S7 ]* n- T1 D* M* i9 M
13.2.1 Tests for cotton/棉纤维测试 137
( \0 h: g1 I; u* r9 C( @% A" Y 13.2.2 Tests for wool/毛纤维测试 139+ G9 \: B: v6 e! W7 L8 @
13.3 Testing of tensile properties/拉伸性能测试 140
) y1 w$ l! u r' R" @ 13.3.1 Description of tensile proprieties/拉伸性能的描述 141
7 d" u7 C9 y! h 13.3.2 Fiber and yarn tensile testing/纤维和纱线拉伸性能的测试 146- b; y2 T# I& ~2 G2 Y, Z
13.3.3 Fabric tensile testing/织物拉伸性能测试方法 1476 ]4 U# c# K4 F/ d
Questions/思考题 149
0 R/ ` } I8 } l. C) K `) H+ P Chapter 14 Fabric Abrasion and Pilling/织物磨损与起球 1500 a8 I \- R# |3 W1 X9 Z% W2 {& ?; Q
14.1 Types of abrasion/磨损的类型 150( @! u' M; e% i
14.1.1 Abrasion between fabrics/织物间的磨损 150/ D4 @$ D! n k. Z
14.1.2 Abrasion between fabric and a nontextile surface/织物与非纤维制品表面磨损 1505 r' J: @ l$ w& Z) e
14.1.3 Abrasion within fabric/织物内部磨损 1514 v, U8 k" V! R/ R# H; c; J
14.1.4 Abrasion by foreign materials within the fabric/与织物内部其他材料的磨损 1512 z; }* Y! ~: g0 b$ p [5 d2 U
14.2 Factors affecting fabric abrasion resistance/影响耐磨性能的因素 151/ W8 G; K' _) P2 H3 X& f
14.2.1 Fabric properties/织物性能 151
( I5 ~' ]' G, d$ G# U; a0 q 14.2.2 Other factors/其他因素 153/ l* v$ S8 w; Z3 b
14.3 Abrasion testing/磨损测试 154
8 E3 }, f4 ]% W& e6 J 14.3.1 Visual comparison with an unabraded specimen/与未磨损样品视觉对比 154
3 w4 d* X- M' ` N- o4 {$ c3 C9 F 14.3.2 Number of cycles to produce a hole/产生磨损破洞需要的摩擦圈数 154
3 R) N: b+ e B/ Z3 E c6 l 14.3.3 Change in a physical property/物理性能的变化 1543 v8 U- q. w9 ?' e: C. `$ o
14.3.4 Microscopic examination/显微镜观测 155
4 Q0 g4 n9 T9 { 14.4 Aesthetics of abrasion and wear/穿着和磨损对美感的影响 155$ b) v9 e$ K# i* L6 B$ V1 C0 I
14.4.1 Color changes caused by abrasion/磨损引起的颜色变化 155
* ^' q" ~1 C' g8 O }1 L% d4 f) d 14.4.2 Pilling/起球 156
) I7 z( c( B" U& z, k% j9 P1 J Questions/思考题 157
( t2 i' \" d; l' d: _+ J* l/ q Chapter 15 Fabric Hand and Drape/织物手感与悬垂 1584 x. ]; A3 R$ ^; |) }: L$ e
15.1 Fabric hand/织物手感 158$ V o2 M. H% A* l7 U9 t
15.2 Fabric drape/织物悬垂 159
; r1 n0 E9 {& n0 y5 E& Q 15.3 Measurement of hand and drape/手感与悬垂的评价 1614 b6 ~7 v B, k( L% `) L
15.3.1 Subjective evaluation/主观评定法 161, ~3 ]+ j* y3 `2 H! m: j
15.3.2 Quantitative measurement/定量评定法 162& X. I T% _) n l3 W7 @3 O: I W
15.3.3 Kawabata evaluation system/KES评定法 163
8 h. t0 u7 T' Y7 K6 \) a+ y" L" p Questions/思考题 163
+ j+ ?/ y& e8 m% Z, u, I7 X' D Chapter 16 Fabric Colorfastness/织物染色牢度 164/ @$ x( W& d# ?8 i5 Q$ Y& n
16.1 Evaluation of color and colorfastness/颜色和染色牢度评定方法 164
( Q! c2 h/ w" F9 k) _/ n1 Y$ f, n 16.2 Colorfastness tests/染色牢度测试 164# ]0 H( l4 n) A7 z3 c
16.2.1 Colorfastness to crocking/耐摩擦色牢度 164
1 a9 {3 ?, M7 P! L 16.2.2 Colorfastness to laundering and bleaching/耐洗涤和耐漂白色牢 1658 B+ e, l( R( [: v W$ D
16.2.3 Colorfastness to drycleaning/耐干洗色牢度 1663 ?8 u. Q9 x5 b8 K
16.2.4 Colorfastness to perspiration/耐汗渍色牢度 166
7 t/ x! H- D0 k- q5 O" i 16.2.5 Colorfastness to water/耐水浸色牢度 166
0 {- V8 J4 P6 o8 ~5 G 16.2.6 Colorfastness to light/耐光照色牢度 167: {& y7 _+ f R( Q3 v+ U
16.2.7 Colorfastness to atmospheric contaminants/耐空气污染色牢度 168
: K3 }. k1 v8 T1 s9 k Questions/思考题 168+ G" }# |" T) A$ V% I4 Q; I5 B& z7 \
Chapter 17 Fabric Flammability/织物可燃性 169
8 Z/ P, |+ V& a% j4 N 17.1 Flammability standards/可燃性标准 169
+ b8 a% d0 K# R1 w: T } 17.2 Properties affecting flammability/影响可燃性的因素 169
. `5 |* i/ U4 w( x8 G, R 17.3 Flammability testing/可燃性测试 171( O- G- P! x s
17.3.1 Forty-five degree angle test/45°燃烧测试法 171
l) q8 I, o, l/ W% N 17.3.2 Vertical flame tests/垂直燃烧测试法 172# V2 i2 v |0 c. a1 Y; {, |1 D
17.3.3 Carpet testing/地毯测试 172. `8 Z2 |- \( G+ U" J0 E( i
17.3.4 Cigarette tests/卷烟点燃测试 1726 Y1 a7 v$ v% c1 E w
17.3.5 Other standard flammability tests/其他可燃性测试 173
' M6 J3 t# r0 P F; M9 [* r Questions/思考题 173
+ w& L) q* b" I; d4 @% j Chapter 18 Comfort of Textiles/纺织品舒适性 174' |. p' c e7 ?, Y
18.1 Physical phenomena affecting thermal comfort/影响热舒适性能的物理现象 174, U; X/ a( u/ f8 I1 u* ^
18.1.1 Heat transfer/热传递 174
8 L7 c+ A! H% ^ 18.1.2 Moisture transfer/湿传递 175
: k% c( [7 \; G7 h 18.1.3 Water resistance/抗水性 175
4 L& Z9 G7 y& d9 n6 l 18.1.4 Air transfer/透气性 176
9 J' S7 N6 b- F: Z U8 P. ^( a9 |. R8 m 18.1.5 Porosity and cover factor/多孔性和覆盖系数 1766 z' k" K- F5 H d5 y
18.1.6 Electrostatic propensity/静电 177
+ I; R0 S- Z2 d; ` }8 W+ ` 18.2 Evaluations of textile properties related to comfort/与舒适性相关的纺织品性能评价 1775 k5 K+ ?- o ^8 A
18.2.1 Heat transfer/热传递 178
! m2 f6 E* R# J# x, s 18.2.2 Moisture properties/湿传递性能 179! d' L( U) d$ X7 b2 k/ X
18.2.3 Air permeability/透气性 179
: q R e" {3 R# g& j7 B9 M5 ~ 18.2.4 Porosity/孔隙率 180
1 k9 }% {2 \4 Z5 G3 w1 ~. ` 18.2.5 Electrostatic tests/静电测试 180, D$ P" I6 U, E9 W
Questions/思考题 1806 J8 V# e, U, E9 N3 }2 l) X9 G
Appendix/附录 181# t) y: u3 L: f* v
AATCC:AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS/美国纺织化学家与染色家协会 181 F" i* Y" v. L% e
ASTM:AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR TESTING AND MATERIALS/美国材料试验学会 184
; o' H5 ^! ]$ u- J2 n2 P5 @- k- Y5 EVocabulary/词汇表 189
; m. i/ |5 H. A3 t: qReferences/参考文献 197: r9 r7 ^1 P$ V+ J8 y7 ?6 f/ _; O
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