
纺织材料学(双语教材),刘妍,熊磊,PDF。普通高等教育“十一五”国家级规划教材(本科),纺织工程专业双语教材,电子目录,14M。
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内容提要! D2 K" y' l1 [
本书讨论了纤维、纱线与织物(包括机织物、针织物及非织造布)的结构、机械性能、物理性能及使用性能。涉及的纤维势括天然纤维(如棉、毛、麻、丝等)、传统化学纤维及新型化学纤维。本书同时介绍了纤维、纱线和织物的各种标准测试方法(包括国际上常用的ASTM, AATCC及GB等方法),并讨论了与各种测试方法有关的测试原理及对测试结果的影响因素。
1 B, m! L, \1 \% ]本书可供高等纺织院校纺织、服装相关专业的本科生及研究生作为《纺织材料学》的双语教材或专业英语教材,也可供其他专业师生、纺织贸易专业人员和科研及生产单位的技术人员参考。1 w5 B( a Y; g
目录
% X4 `7 ?& A1 T/ u8 B9 v. bPart Ⅰ An Introduction to Textiles/纺织入门 18/ x# i, J+ B* {7 M
Chapter 1 Introduction/介绍 18
. d3 k( h% U& y 1.1 ASTM Standard Terminology Relating to Textiles/ASTM纺织标准术语 18# o7 A8 A: l4 ~/ H/ c
1.2 Fiber history/纤维历史 26* S0 z$ h6 J" ^# J, Z% m. |3 c& ^
1.2.1 Natural fibers/天然纤维 265 {6 h2 E# r0 o4 j; j
1.2.2 Man-made fibers/化学纤维 27
9 d6 B* G4 K3 N% }/ B* A6 o Questions/思考题 30
+ o3 u8 k8 t6 a; u2 o7 UPart Ⅱ Textile Fibers/纺织纤维 32
+ a; u2 m: Q B" I( h: s; @ Chapter 2 Natural Cellulosic Fibers/天然纤维素纤维 32
i- Y1 A3 D" Y) a; U+ g" k/ @( G 2.1 Cotton/棉 33
$ I! ^6 f4 F: H5 z3 J 2.1.1 Nature of cotton/棉花的种类 336 T: D8 T; o$ |+ J1 r' S5 o8 d" U
2.1.2 Classification/分类 34
4 m, x E5 o+ G- P( E 2.1.3 Growth and structure of cotton/棉纤维的生长与结构 34 E& Q) F0 o+ n5 `2 C
2.1.4 Maturity/成熟度 36
5 }) T$ A' b) y* i$ J( o 2.1.5 Cotton properties/棉纤维的性能 38
4 F9 S" C9 P- a" } 2.1.6 Cotton classification/棉花分级 39
3 ^6 g0 d5 z: A6 u3 _2 p' H 2.2 Bast fibers/韧皮纤维 40
. U8 _7 S, ^. n6 ~" K6 Z7 \/ m 2.2.1 Flax (linen)/亚麻,亚麻织物 41" k4 {7 l% j3 `
2.2.2 Ramie/苎麻 43
$ U* _2 Q% z t. C' T 2.2.3 Hemp/汉麻 44
3 ^* E5 K( B" V& S/ l& a8 n! b 2.2.4 Jute/黄麻 443 @: ?& L6 D% V& E' @
Questions/思考题 45
. g# u, H5 q# L; v5 W; ^2 y Chapter 3 Natural Protein Fibers/天然蛋白质纤维 46
( `8 q/ B! j" Z( K# C) k 3.1 Wool/绵羊毛 46
3 \2 F# N0 r$ z: C* x8 l7 w 3.1.1 Wool production and history/羊毛生产和历史 46
9 F7 y7 g- I1 ~/ u% b; `+ ] 3.1.2 Wool grading/羊毛分级 47
# W0 d# d! d0 m) I0 b 3.1.3 Wool structure/羊毛结构 470 S1 w$ y T; A) y$ E
3.1.4 Wool properties/羊毛性能 48) k2 y7 x; A5 B5 ]' O, H! i! c! Z& E
3.2 Specialty animal fibers/特种动物毛 51
" f* l+ t% u' v" v6 W4 Q 3.3 Silk/丝 52
; i& V: L- g7 I# u3 H' G Questions/思考题 54
+ Y7 R0 x m$ H6 A5 b Chapter 4 Man-made Fibers/化学纤维 55- l u( v }- H. g" \. ]
4.1 Manufacturing processing of fiber/纤维生产工艺 55
, w9 X$ ^4 i$ ^5 d$ G( a 4.1.1 Wet spinning/湿法纺丝 56
$ L) e @5 t4 e( W2 V* j% Z 4.1.2 Dry spinning/干法纺丝 56, d: U- Z6 S3 u. h
4.1.3 Melt spinning/熔体法纺丝 56
& A1 i; v( s/ o. S# S+ Q 4.1.4 Gel spinning/凝胶纺丝 57& Z- V ^' y% ~+ [( ~: L
4.2 Regenerated fibers/再生纤维 57+ S9 b0 Z6 a: a1 }. k4 H% h( i
4.2.1 Acetate/醋酯纤维 57
9 X3 c; C( p4 _0 C2 L 4.2.2 Triacetate/三醋酯纤维 59
/ ]" D4 p/ Z4 Z 4.2.3 Viscose fibers/粘胶纤维 59
, ^; `1 g2 c& u& _/ y 4.3 Synthetic fibers/合成纤维 60' N o I* H: }( L
4.3.1 Acrylic/腈纶 60
3 H6 {' q, n. |6 n 4.3.2 Modacrylic/改性腈纶 61: d' f9 n3 E1 T+ a- d0 D
4.3.3 Nylon/锦纶 61# p. k/ B' U1 a. }# M
4.3.4 Polyester/涤纶 62& i, D& }4 Y" ~! H9 X: ]! F
4.3.5 PBI/聚苯并咪唑纤维 63
5 { d% v f1 S; _ 4.3.6 Vinal/聚乙烯醇纤维 637 f6 L v3 T- [: I) _0 D1 X
4.3.7 Olefin/聚烯烃纤维 63
" H6 C+ [7 K, M; B 4.3.8 Aramid/芳纶 64# S1 G8 b+ K% d$ K: f
4.3.9 Lycra/莱卡 64
" p% p* C5 E& Q3 {2 N 4.4 Other man-made fibers/其他化学纤维 66
3 L2 {- d8 n4 J0 ?% X, f: Y* q8 x 4.4.1 Glass/玻璃纤维 66
& [. T) h: ^$ ~7 e6 N" a 4.4.2 Metallic/金属纤维 67
/ ?4 x$ Z; [ u/ Z, A- D* l1 P Questions/思考题 67
9 v4 A' ~$ b8 i A Chapter 5 New Fibers/新型纤维 68" a( g) b, y9 z* T) l3 E
5.1 Carbon fibers/碳纤维 688 y" i' K6 z" t1 S5 l) e' h% ~! @
5.2 Fluorocarbon/氟碳纤维 68- D% }5 [. j" G2 o0 R' j$ h
5.3 Lyocell fibers(Tencel)/莱塞尔纤维 68$ k8 S0 p/ b! u/ @4 i ^
5.4 High-wet-modulus fibers/高湿模量纤维 69
' e- p3 f, p( r! n3 T( g 5.4.1 Modal fibers/莫代尔纤维 69% D' l/ B8 o$ {3 X# E# T2 G7 _" w
5.4.2 Richcel/丽赛纤维 70
7 ^& Y- }# @+ y, ~ 5.5 Soybean protein composite fibers/大豆蛋白复合纤维 70
1 J( y! T7 |8 F4 N, z9 M 5.6 PLA fiber/聚左旋乳酸纤维 71
5 c6 v/ {2 b- x N1 C 5.7 Heterogenous fibers/复合纤维 71# w& @& G7 B/ ~/ R7 q7 z: G
5.7.1 Bicomponent or multicomponent/双组分或多组分 72 P1 v6 T- E) R6 G
5.7.2 Biconstituent or multiconstituent/双成分或多成分 73
2 D2 ]; r3 w, u8 ?) L" U 5.7.3 Matrix or matrix-fibril/基质型纤维 733 g5 a: G! P' t+ V1 N
5.8 Differential fibers/差别化纤维 74* |- ?' J" `( o% r1 D: ]% H5 S$ V# H
5.9 Functional fibers/功能性纤维 745 \; q3 N% c; I$ V ]
5.10 High performance fibers/高性能纤维 74! c, ]+ ~1 f$ X! |: m
Questions/思考题 74, @5 n. {1 D3 [$ O8 z" f
Chapter 6 The Property of Absorbing Moisture/吸湿性 75' z- [ M; Z, d U
6.1 Orientation and crystallization/取向与结晶 75, D) n: Y2 x5 L% ^7 L- O
6.2 Moisture sorption/吸湿性 75
0 e2 w3 Q( W8 o* ]# W0 e: a" D 6.2.1 Regain and moisture content/回潮率与含水率 75, K7 H$ p# K& V
6.2.2 Relation between regain and relative humidity/回潮率与相对湿度的关系 75
: z0 F8 t: F" r5 X6 z1 J0 v3 ] 6.2.3 Comparison of various materials/不同材料吸湿性的对比 763 s# F" G: J, E9 F% Q
6.2.4 Theories of moisture sorption/吸湿理论 78! J9 p) b* M# f$ e6 V
Questions/思考题 807 V' _* I% t0 |0 M! R
Chapter 7 Other Physical Properties of Textile Fibers/纤维的其他物理性能 81! p/ I3 D3 t% s: {2 n
7.1 Electronic properties/电学性能 81 S1 T' l' i! i( K) _, ^8 r
7.1.1 Definitions/定义 81
& i* P1 s) L, K; O 7.2 Optical properties/光学性能 82
, }- Q# a5 e9 J/ a# ?% [! ]! y+ b1 A 7.3 Thermal properties/热学性能 83
% a7 z9 v8 A7 _1 ~, n8 P 7.3.1 Thermal parameters/热力学参数 83
2 e7 O) P# u# z' j) e: P8 J 7.3.2 A comparison of temperature effects/温度效应比较 834 K& t; M* c( l; A8 ~, b
Questions/思考题 83
6 _) V* k z5 p9 g) l6 X& l S) \Part Ⅲ Textile Yarns/纺织纱线 84+ L- z7 }- b# }% V* W
Chapter 8 Yarn Processing and Construction/纱线制造与结构 84* V% s5 k# o( Y& l. A3 s9 O4 L/ g
8.1 Spun yarns/短纤纱 85# E, s2 X+ j* h8 I" E, J
8.2 Filament yarns/长丝纱 85
2 R, X' O& P B( P9 M' v- | 8.3 Methods of yarn processing/纺纱方法 85
. M, P( u2 G7 D% `$ K, d! j 8.3.1 Ring-spinning/环锭纺 86
' }6 y; B: w9 w* e2 K2 y; w8 e1 Y4 o 8.3.2 New methods of yarn processing/新型纺纱方法 86
8 h" N6 b' z7 d3 C 8.4 Single and ply yarns/单纱和股线 89
$ z/ {7 s: N5 b5 h3 V3 c5 y) k% s5 S 8.5 Special types of yarn/特种纱线 905 e8 ^5 a5 C1 \) D! b
8.5.1 Fancy yarns/花式纱 90
9 z4 B! A Z+ i5 ?' P/ D% s 8.5.2 Stretch yarns/弹力纱 91
( g' S7 E/ g5 { 8.5.3 Textured yarns 变形纱线 915 [0 ~+ s& ]$ @, y; _
8.6 Blends and mixtures yarns/纱线混纺与混用 924 q D2 }: c; P0 k
Questions/思考题 93
+ ~! a% G3 {2 s8 g4 O' E: Z Chapter 9 Yarn Properties/纱线性能 94
8 P* g2 Z9 f3 ~; R3 \2 [9 | 9.1 Yarn number/纱线细度 94( }- i) k1 [9 r6 E4 Z% l) W k
9.1.1 Denier system/旦数 94
* [! G) e. c2 \" y. W% p% r 9.1.2 Yarn count system/纱线英制支数 94
6 q# E9 H4 K: X 9.1.3 Tex system/线密度 95: e$ [( |& g/ T( a2 j! [
9.1.4 Metric numbering system/公制支数 95
% S! w# p! M+ D; s& @- }* k! D6 u 9.1.5 Conversion in different systems/不同系统之间的换算 958 `. V" x5 u2 s8 ?7 R
9.2 Ply yarn counts and singles equivalent/股线支数与单纱支数 957 A' t6 ? h. r( q% S
9.3 Yarn twist/纱线捻度 96
# F' B- _8 E2 {, x8 y* | 9.4 Yarn hairiness/纱线毛羽 97
- x, r& d9 c% d! _) ]/ P 9.4.1 Hairiness test method/毛羽测试方法 981 |7 w, ^+ R! S
9.4.2 Factors affecting hairiness/影响毛羽的因素 98
4 T E% I' g, L ^ 9.5 Yarn unevenness/纱线不匀 992 z" C; @5 {0 f: I, o M8 _0 r) `
9.5.1 Test of yarn unevenness/纱线不匀的测试 99
! [$ Q' `2 N! U3 \, y5 b, u 9.5.2 Reasons for yarn unevenness/纱线不匀的原因 100
9 j1 {; g Z% [! Q 9.6 Classification of yarn quality/纱线质量分析 100. Q# `7 [1 @) R4 l
Questions/思考题 100
4 F* b2 P& |/ y4 z" `Part Ⅳ Textile Fabrics/织物 102* [. @1 i* w, {
Chapter 10 Woven Fabrics/机织物 102
4 F @% E: g# U! E. l2 i 10.1 Making woven fabrics/织制机织物 102( a) u/ W8 T m
10.1.1 The loom/织机 1024 m+ E- p' N! x. j# J: ^4 D
10.1.2 Loom type/织机类型 1046 c4 }' m! ?7 `* _9 A
10.1.3 Loom motions/织机运动 1042 K1 L) ^9 I _( R0 Z
10.1.4 Electronics in weaving/电子技术在织机中的应用 105/ _3 ~, ?+ w5 x. B. `% {- c
10.1.5 The selvage/布边 105
) k: J+ {; C8 Y 10.2 Warp yarns and filling yarns/经纱和纬纱 105) n/ e# Y% N& u0 P% B/ E
10.2.1 Identification/鉴别 106
' K. |1 U7 l! Z* i 10.3 Face and back/正面与反面 106: u2 A9 R5 Z( |6 o8 S
10.3.1 Reasons for differenee/存在差异的原因 107
2 N* ^+ D/ l$ i( A6 ]( t 10.3.2 Caution/应用的要点 107& e3 i" j2 D/ x8 c* m# h
10.4 Top and bottom/顶端和底端 107
' N: ?! A0 s# Z6 Y 10.4.1 Reasons for difference/存在差异的原因 107/ P' b9 h* ~0 d
10.5 Weave floats/组织浮线 108
* y5 p5 K3 X5 h8 l Z' d 10.6 Basic weaves/基本组织 108( S; w7 b* s! l2 |/ Y
10.6.1 Plain weave/平纹组织 108
7 ~4 Y# s: }& G3 j! X- R 10.6.2 Twill weave/斜纹组织 109. D1 y9 }2 c% s) t7 s& |
10.6.3 Satin weave/缎纹组织 111) [/ e% a7 Q4 O4 m4 W/ r$ X+ t8 c
10.7 Fabric performance and characteristics/织物性能和参数 112* e: r& }4 {" c2 s1 D6 N- C1 Y6 Y
10.7.1 Fabric width/幅宽 1120 G4 w- i3 e( F7 i& s/ L9 I
10.7.2 Fabric weight/织物重量 112
( A# g9 K/ U) a0 B0 `1 ?1 `; D 10.7.3 Fabric thickness/织物厚度 113+ B( \- u7 c! z h x/ F
10.7.4 Fabric density/织物密度 113
/ a7 X% t5 K ^/ v0 V5 Y 10.7.5 Fabric count/织物经纬密度 1132 u4 V7 q, Z8 Z4 H
10.7.6 Fabric defects/织物疵点 113% s1 D0 X" e2 g8 t
Questions/思考题 113; Y; Y! |) c5 p7 ~5 M/ @3 T
Chapter 11 Knitted Fabrics/针织物 114
$ c" h+ r; l' ]# C( U 11.1 Making of knitted fabric/针织物形成 114
2 f1 V) D: [1 _, H: K: K% ~/ g 11.1.1 The forming of knitted stitches/线圈的形成 1142 l. s8 p' M5 X6 |
11.1.2 Types of knitted stitches/线圈的种类 116
. {& R; b- ~: ~7 `! V 11.2 Weft knits/纬编针织物 117
/ Q4 `: f7 T+ O) c4 e 11.2.1 Jersey knit fabric/纬平针织物 117
+ G7 Q7 i, n! Z6 s 11.2.2 Rib knit fabric/罗纹针织物 118
; K2 U' W' J ?, [/ ]0 r 11.2.3 Purl knit fabric/双反面针织物 119" v5 f& c5 ]0 X* l
11.2.4 Double knits/双面针织物 120% ~" ?2 t ^ P! X4 b( _0 \
11.2.5 Full-fashioned knits/全成形针织物 120# A0 V& Z: A6 M4 r! B7 g
11.3 Warp knits/经编针织物 121
& z2 `" z- m4 {+ D 11.3.1 Tricot fabrics/特里科经编针织物 121
* ~- Q5 _9 c6 M+ u' L 11.3.2 Raschel fabrics/拉舍尔经编针织物 1223 [! x' S$ `$ U2 n3 i# @
11.4 Performance and characteristics/性能和参数 122
9 \& |7 @$ O' W' X3 G# s2 i Questions/思考题 123
- s* N" [, N/ k4 A Chapter 12 Nonwoven Fabrics/非织造布 124
5 B' ~- r+ H9 ~" J/ S; ]+ y 12.1 Introduction/导论 124- }1 l% M+ W- S% a
12.2 Manufacturing methods/生产方法 125# g5 G/ a# l" i7 e7 _; g. v- N) J, _( r
12.2.1 Dry laid system/干法成网 125
3 d1 R$ L/ B, h- i+ y0 w 12.2.2 Wet laid system/湿法成网 125& x, {+ T! I, @
12.2.3 Polymer laid system/聚合物挤压法 1250 `( X* T/ o' I6 h3 N
12.3 Various nonwovens/各种非织造布 1255 E7 t6 p4 f* \( w+ |
12.3.1 Needle punched nonwovens/针刺法非织造布 1258 f. C1 z4 R0 N5 F0 r: O. [, u
12.3.2 Bonded web nonwovens/黏合法非织造布 1260 H; r- F/ N( Y( u- ^) _
12.3.3 Spunlaced nonwovens/射流喷网法非织造布 127
0 }1 u) Z2 l/ k3 F 12.3.4 Spunbonded nonwovens/纺粘法非织造布 128& F `, M n ~% b
12.3.5 Melt-blown nonwovens/熔喷法非织造布 129
1 t: n% m9 T3 ~1 T" n Questions/思考题 129, `+ R! h% v- o( A& B% l9 v; ~! K/ w' a
Part Ⅴ Textile Testing/纺织品测试 130+ T1 C/ k9 @$ e6 _: y" b7 r
Chapter 13 General Test Methods/常规测试方法 130
2 Q6 l! i" Q$ e, \! {! T 13.1 General fiber tests/纤维常规测试 130
) c+ ~+ Y: _9 Y8 M: U5 X 13.1.1 Fiber identification/纤维鉴别 130
- g' M1 T6 [* r( E. U8 { 13.1.2 Fiber length/纤维长度 134
3 | P& h2 f- q 13.1.3 Fiber fineness or linear density/纤维细度或线密度 135+ f- c/ V8 c( P' f
13.1.4 Cross-sectional shape/截面形状 135, [# j3 t! d8 T0 G x# l6 L. I
13.1.5 Crimp/卷曲 135
( Q. V1 n: z+ i 13.1.6 Regain/回潮率 136) T( j& ^+ |9 H% u3 F
13.1.7 Mechanical properties/机械性能 136
# e" N' P6 M3 S& P) W. [ 13.1.8 Chemical characteristics/化学性能 136
I' N3 r% V( S( j/ c8 ?; t) \ 13.1.9 Surface characteristics/表面性能 136
) g" a, b6 R. }8 [( y, A4 y 13.1.10 Density and specific gravity/密度和相对密度 137
& X. G% b7 K5 N* h3 I 13.2 Special tests for natural fibers/天然纤维的测试 137- [# `! S- z8 ?& w" v4 l: n: k! c3 s
13.2.1 Tests for cotton/棉纤维测试 1379 O9 |' n9 s) b( f
13.2.2 Tests for wool/毛纤维测试 139* ?+ }7 Q4 s V9 S# l& `
13.3 Testing of tensile properties/拉伸性能测试 1408 n; S' E5 g; S% T8 x: D
13.3.1 Description of tensile proprieties/拉伸性能的描述 1417 ]; F3 h, ]! p! P8 `: l/ n2 ]
13.3.2 Fiber and yarn tensile testing/纤维和纱线拉伸性能的测试 146+ [& D9 ~% R0 }$ V" S6 H
13.3.3 Fabric tensile testing/织物拉伸性能测试方法 147
7 m3 y( Q! y; x9 {6 K" K Questions/思考题 1491 e8 w$ a& t. \' V( W
Chapter 14 Fabric Abrasion and Pilling/织物磨损与起球 150+ O: V9 _' ]8 N" `
14.1 Types of abrasion/磨损的类型 150
0 ~" ]8 y' O/ n- l2 s* ~ 14.1.1 Abrasion between fabrics/织物间的磨损 150! i: t/ `$ t7 b3 h6 T) Y, L
14.1.2 Abrasion between fabric and a nontextile surface/织物与非纤维制品表面磨损 1503 I; b; E- k7 ~3 L% k. ~% D
14.1.3 Abrasion within fabric/织物内部磨损 151
$ m# t6 M, {3 u3 D. I& x- V, l 14.1.4 Abrasion by foreign materials within the fabric/与织物内部其他材料的磨损 1519 g, @' J* e8 \5 z) S
14.2 Factors affecting fabric abrasion resistance/影响耐磨性能的因素 151
+ t7 o0 d. v3 R5 _$ x \* y 14.2.1 Fabric properties/织物性能 151
2 X3 l# T N7 U4 ~# {) B% c. d 14.2.2 Other factors/其他因素 1530 U8 o8 e& Q( T6 X6 s
14.3 Abrasion testing/磨损测试 1545 @) q* d( G6 [
14.3.1 Visual comparison with an unabraded specimen/与未磨损样品视觉对比 154; K: L( L' z( H4 \+ y4 @0 _
14.3.2 Number of cycles to produce a hole/产生磨损破洞需要的摩擦圈数 154
: `6 ~( P6 _2 Q5 u# V% `) u 14.3.3 Change in a physical property/物理性能的变化 1548 W- t" J' p* l4 ^. z
14.3.4 Microscopic examination/显微镜观测 155
: @: R3 R5 }( M' r; o2 U 14.4 Aesthetics of abrasion and wear/穿着和磨损对美感的影响 1552 j1 G9 b9 c" C3 `* F/ V, z
14.4.1 Color changes caused by abrasion/磨损引起的颜色变化 155
2 F, b/ r6 }7 x" b5 z3 h 14.4.2 Pilling/起球 156
* X4 g# x. Y& T2 ~. \+ q, D6 u Questions/思考题 157
5 M1 j8 ?2 L* T" b7 e/ k Chapter 15 Fabric Hand and Drape/织物手感与悬垂 158
* C" I" u/ T! Z 15.1 Fabric hand/织物手感 158
5 b7 `8 B; @: f 15.2 Fabric drape/织物悬垂 159: h" V% ]1 K7 R( e( S% l; T7 f
15.3 Measurement of hand and drape/手感与悬垂的评价 161
! F% K$ G+ T! I1 x3 | 15.3.1 Subjective evaluation/主观评定法 161
. ]9 v4 Y0 c0 i7 H 15.3.2 Quantitative measurement/定量评定法 162. ~8 ]- I- i7 y. r
15.3.3 Kawabata evaluation system/KES评定法 163
% a8 |% f1 [4 N! N; A Questions/思考题 163
/ ]" R8 Z5 f" q7 b1 A Chapter 16 Fabric Colorfastness/织物染色牢度 164
n8 f3 C# H5 s% i6 e6 N7 V 16.1 Evaluation of color and colorfastness/颜色和染色牢度评定方法 1640 i8 Z# ?2 |5 E2 G5 g! D9 H9 j7 R
16.2 Colorfastness tests/染色牢度测试 164) Y' k: |' ^+ l8 S G
16.2.1 Colorfastness to crocking/耐摩擦色牢度 164- A* [0 j/ e0 g4 q
16.2.2 Colorfastness to laundering and bleaching/耐洗涤和耐漂白色牢 165
S3 e* d" ?+ n2 U+ P 16.2.3 Colorfastness to drycleaning/耐干洗色牢度 166) e9 \ K; P. X& ^% h2 _* Y$ L
16.2.4 Colorfastness to perspiration/耐汗渍色牢度 166
% \$ E- b. H8 } 16.2.5 Colorfastness to water/耐水浸色牢度 1669 F, d) E& W% n0 x+ h6 q+ H
16.2.6 Colorfastness to light/耐光照色牢度 1679 B+ s' q) _7 \ e8 j
16.2.7 Colorfastness to atmospheric contaminants/耐空气污染色牢度 168
% z2 d& x* |" h) U$ w Questions/思考题 168; z: p7 z! b/ b+ G3 q) Y; U
Chapter 17 Fabric Flammability/织物可燃性 169+ M$ n6 h; [/ s2 |4 ?% H, R
17.1 Flammability standards/可燃性标准 169: q8 G: i- ]1 W3 n' I
17.2 Properties affecting flammability/影响可燃性的因素 169
# X A" A7 D4 ^0 u+ g 17.3 Flammability testing/可燃性测试 171
% y7 G. W$ t p3 a% g( \! L 17.3.1 Forty-five degree angle test/45°燃烧测试法 171. L& A% N4 R' ? s% _+ @
17.3.2 Vertical flame tests/垂直燃烧测试法 172
8 T b6 |$ |, f- @ 17.3.3 Carpet testing/地毯测试 172" L1 m2 d; L* e2 D8 d! V9 K8 {
17.3.4 Cigarette tests/卷烟点燃测试 172
0 o0 o* Z" I5 W9 H9 e( V2 L2 C 17.3.5 Other standard flammability tests/其他可燃性测试 173- n* e n# A. m
Questions/思考题 173
; t8 d5 t) M- z) S Chapter 18 Comfort of Textiles/纺织品舒适性 174; k( _6 G+ ~& {" _# R5 C; B' ~
18.1 Physical phenomena affecting thermal comfort/影响热舒适性能的物理现象 174* @: I: t# V; @! x
18.1.1 Heat transfer/热传递 174
) ~4 v+ r' F7 a4 y) ^) B1 V 18.1.2 Moisture transfer/湿传递 175& _3 B5 I7 \! u5 S' u; S
18.1.3 Water resistance/抗水性 175
+ y/ N" F! I0 @) ^& a" E! N 18.1.4 Air transfer/透气性 176$ }' a0 K6 U- Z
18.1.5 Porosity and cover factor/多孔性和覆盖系数 176
* o7 z0 G3 K7 l 18.1.6 Electrostatic propensity/静电 177
" _6 e4 \: i- K4 U# C y" v2 v 18.2 Evaluations of textile properties related to comfort/与舒适性相关的纺织品性能评价 1771 b' y8 h; `8 l- x
18.2.1 Heat transfer/热传递 178
/ E5 e k+ \4 q 18.2.2 Moisture properties/湿传递性能 179$ H; K9 }7 |. S# D1 d0 `
18.2.3 Air permeability/透气性 1794 w3 y* l" S8 i V
18.2.4 Porosity/孔隙率 180
% G% A/ g; T0 a" O# n 18.2.5 Electrostatic tests/静电测试 180
8 x* { }7 x* R, V% g Questions/思考题 180 d2 B9 L. W% X: M5 I- n, t
Appendix/附录 181, J! q g, D! u/ k* G( \
AATCC:AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS/美国纺织化学家与染色家协会 181- N- \/ s' {( r& ?$ T7 R$ N
ASTM:AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR TESTING AND MATERIALS/美国材料试验学会 184: b6 Z ?7 l( C/ C+ Y0 ]6 O! w9 S
Vocabulary/词汇表 1895 n2 c$ B' v5 N) ]
References/参考文献 1979 V+ S) ]5 L$ y6 A8 n! Q, g
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