
纺织材料学(双语教材),刘妍,熊磊,PDF。普通高等教育“十一五”国家级规划教材(本科),纺织工程专业双语教材,电子目录,14M。2 Q% l+ J4 Q$ M
0 l1 m7 U( a3 q8 I/ N# }! {内容提要
9 N/ _2 s8 Z8 E% O1 ~本书讨论了纤维、纱线与织物(包括机织物、针织物及非织造布)的结构、机械性能、物理性能及使用性能。涉及的纤维势括天然纤维(如棉、毛、麻、丝等)、传统化学纤维及新型化学纤维。本书同时介绍了纤维、纱线和织物的各种标准测试方法(包括国际上常用的ASTM, AATCC及GB等方法),并讨论了与各种测试方法有关的测试原理及对测试结果的影响因素。
. E5 _6 L; s" m! x: X本书可供高等纺织院校纺织、服装相关专业的本科生及研究生作为《纺织材料学》的双语教材或专业英语教材,也可供其他专业师生、纺织贸易专业人员和科研及生产单位的技术人员参考。) A" O5 G. l% u
目录
' n# ]. x" Q4 {) i, d. [Part Ⅰ An Introduction to Textiles/纺织入门 18" @0 t3 B* D- i% ?+ i$ v2 u
Chapter 1 Introduction/介绍 183 W _9 ~ I! c" W
1.1 ASTM Standard Terminology Relating to Textiles/ASTM纺织标准术语 189 }' D8 I& Z) O* g6 Q) z
1.2 Fiber history/纤维历史 26
, B7 g' }0 m, [ s+ ]: |$ A8 P 1.2.1 Natural fibers/天然纤维 26) d o4 o7 `; R( b& N0 N
1.2.2 Man-made fibers/化学纤维 27
2 z" Z8 m+ B* \5 Z: x" O' R Questions/思考题 30
7 A7 u2 ~1 t( Q/ oPart Ⅱ Textile Fibers/纺织纤维 32% Y4 _+ e% {% A9 O
Chapter 2 Natural Cellulosic Fibers/天然纤维素纤维 32
# f2 { N3 {% @* S 2.1 Cotton/棉 33
, Y" s4 D) p7 @$ M5 { 2.1.1 Nature of cotton/棉花的种类 336 V n0 o; V7 f* u3 |8 W5 t& d9 _
2.1.2 Classification/分类 34
- F2 c% I/ y/ x( D 2.1.3 Growth and structure of cotton/棉纤维的生长与结构 34
1 |1 P) Q& Z |* D4 W 2.1.4 Maturity/成熟度 36& r7 w8 I$ z) R. S
2.1.5 Cotton properties/棉纤维的性能 38
* e4 j: u5 {4 D* x1 @8 f 2.1.6 Cotton classification/棉花分级 39
8 g9 @* `& R. u9 N5 X, x 2.2 Bast fibers/韧皮纤维 40# o; r+ F3 D- g; b/ B
2.2.1 Flax (linen)/亚麻,亚麻织物 41
& l# \ [- S# M 2.2.2 Ramie/苎麻 43# s3 K6 y8 e2 A# B! O# U u! ?7 l/ k
2.2.3 Hemp/汉麻 44
* J" f# U) Y! j3 x4 U 2.2.4 Jute/黄麻 44
! N% h% S3 Y0 N2 L Questions/思考题 45
5 e2 E0 g% D! m$ H Chapter 3 Natural Protein Fibers/天然蛋白质纤维 462 ]5 P- t/ C) h) M* E
3.1 Wool/绵羊毛 46
) Z1 \4 z+ G2 X2 d$ ^, U9 p( g# L8 a6 _ 3.1.1 Wool production and history/羊毛生产和历史 46
$ j; K# X& Z. j/ ?; B( X5 x+ U: x 3.1.2 Wool grading/羊毛分级 47) I0 Q, x* l( _+ I& y
3.1.3 Wool structure/羊毛结构 47' m. t" i ^9 ?. t5 }
3.1.4 Wool properties/羊毛性能 48
4 _( b, j7 {( I% x* j2 Z! T 3.2 Specialty animal fibers/特种动物毛 51
/ s$ M% g9 K' C4 c6 O9 R( X! ^# g+ A% } 3.3 Silk/丝 52$ o. z! D1 F! J5 \: B
Questions/思考题 54- f1 ?6 o8 _- J* N
Chapter 4 Man-made Fibers/化学纤维 55) q( [3 m+ D5 H
4.1 Manufacturing processing of fiber/纤维生产工艺 55" n9 D/ U' s, k9 W
4.1.1 Wet spinning/湿法纺丝 56' s9 D- `$ R; C* K
4.1.2 Dry spinning/干法纺丝 562 j$ [! K9 P% w# m0 R/ j5 u
4.1.3 Melt spinning/熔体法纺丝 568 L5 D& [4 {# g/ S
4.1.4 Gel spinning/凝胶纺丝 57
: z' @; l; K$ l U* o 4.2 Regenerated fibers/再生纤维 57. i' x; k C6 c8 E7 b
4.2.1 Acetate/醋酯纤维 57
/ n. N) }) @1 O$ r8 ^! `. p5 @ 4.2.2 Triacetate/三醋酯纤维 59
' i& _ ^7 | Y( b" x 4.2.3 Viscose fibers/粘胶纤维 59
) X, b( w# R! N4 `" S/ s" q1 L! j 4.3 Synthetic fibers/合成纤维 60
: d5 F' B$ z3 ~: A# S; q) [ 4.3.1 Acrylic/腈纶 603 D) T# T, u0 {8 W4 Y# P u9 `" L/ _
4.3.2 Modacrylic/改性腈纶 61
3 r9 R$ ]+ n6 R/ l& T; j5 l 4.3.3 Nylon/锦纶 61
# M9 t+ l# {' y5 a+ C C 4.3.4 Polyester/涤纶 624 k' E8 |$ b+ m( Z
4.3.5 PBI/聚苯并咪唑纤维 63
1 V- W# K+ b# [! K% [# Q. T* @7 l 4.3.6 Vinal/聚乙烯醇纤维 63
8 B# H6 y' i- y6 Z 4.3.7 Olefin/聚烯烃纤维 63
, h+ I& \* Y! U1 x* b$ t: m 4.3.8 Aramid/芳纶 64" [% U/ b3 j0 X, V% z1 {+ e
4.3.9 Lycra/莱卡 64
. s6 u% t# I3 A+ q# f% c7 D 4.4 Other man-made fibers/其他化学纤维 666 d6 j3 \: e, H+ C1 `
4.4.1 Glass/玻璃纤维 66
! c2 q: q U9 W3 | 4.4.2 Metallic/金属纤维 67
0 n& \# U/ @4 O# x6 N) N Questions/思考题 67
% u% F8 ?9 [2 b' E Chapter 5 New Fibers/新型纤维 68" r" s! t& Q+ g5 C8 J! w7 `1 ~7 r% v
5.1 Carbon fibers/碳纤维 68' w* ~. h) r3 ^/ C2 r
5.2 Fluorocarbon/氟碳纤维 68
% j0 e* O. r# q& r- {: S( P 5.3 Lyocell fibers(Tencel)/莱塞尔纤维 68
3 {( U4 `0 Q( ?& ^ 5.4 High-wet-modulus fibers/高湿模量纤维 69$ h' h- X4 D) b( N* O( v" Z
5.4.1 Modal fibers/莫代尔纤维 69! c/ M; p! r- q5 A8 U' Y, ?9 i* l
5.4.2 Richcel/丽赛纤维 70
: Z2 z6 T$ q) ~' P2 p" P7 B 5.5 Soybean protein composite fibers/大豆蛋白复合纤维 70, @& c$ G* y9 D* X
5.6 PLA fiber/聚左旋乳酸纤维 71
' S8 `; d; }* n' q# b& w( S 5.7 Heterogenous fibers/复合纤维 71$ F) |% V7 O; v( b E
5.7.1 Bicomponent or multicomponent/双组分或多组分 72
3 v* z3 `/ ?9 s9 l, i 5.7.2 Biconstituent or multiconstituent/双成分或多成分 73
2 n+ @1 Q* L$ d3 v! e0 ^0 e- [* o6 Y 5.7.3 Matrix or matrix-fibril/基质型纤维 73! ]; `' P: O7 W
5.8 Differential fibers/差别化纤维 744 b2 O) g1 Q3 Y1 l6 A
5.9 Functional fibers/功能性纤维 741 w r* z4 S8 c' {. O
5.10 High performance fibers/高性能纤维 74
) i7 T2 Y1 ^- }9 D3 c Questions/思考题 74
3 B" l3 U$ G2 \, k2 m: L Chapter 6 The Property of Absorbing Moisture/吸湿性 75
6 U X, `7 C3 c* w 6.1 Orientation and crystallization/取向与结晶 75# L4 _. H9 N% P' V, f: H* Q
6.2 Moisture sorption/吸湿性 752 o/ Q) k; A: @* z5 e
6.2.1 Regain and moisture content/回潮率与含水率 75
% ^/ U; Z! ~% l2 n9 m7 ?$ j 6.2.2 Relation between regain and relative humidity/回潮率与相对湿度的关系 75
% K% _( S' G0 t/ q9 q 6.2.3 Comparison of various materials/不同材料吸湿性的对比 76
; ~9 u* G. j i9 t4 Q, W 6.2.4 Theories of moisture sorption/吸湿理论 78
" M9 [* T3 S9 @ Questions/思考题 80( g/ c% K9 N2 i# G; z; U' @
Chapter 7 Other Physical Properties of Textile Fibers/纤维的其他物理性能 81
F8 [, D. w' y 7.1 Electronic properties/电学性能 81
3 l# C, `- n5 ^9 M4 m 7.1.1 Definitions/定义 81
2 v9 ]& |3 j0 b P 7.2 Optical properties/光学性能 82, @, [' M' f6 L" A G8 m, c
7.3 Thermal properties/热学性能 83
% l3 ~6 N) b, Y6 l 7.3.1 Thermal parameters/热力学参数 83
# z9 X4 H* ~7 i2 Z+ h( c 7.3.2 A comparison of temperature effects/温度效应比较 83
. R# n8 ]& v1 _) U7 j% F7 a Questions/思考题 83
4 l! w3 ^; Y& s: S7 M- \Part Ⅲ Textile Yarns/纺织纱线 84( @' `: ]; m6 i0 p2 @3 e
Chapter 8 Yarn Processing and Construction/纱线制造与结构 84
# B: T) j+ W7 w% R4 \ 8.1 Spun yarns/短纤纱 85: S4 R) c6 m9 q( p- H& `
8.2 Filament yarns/长丝纱 85, n3 _6 R$ X! k( S, B% c" b
8.3 Methods of yarn processing/纺纱方法 853 c; t f6 W, W" }! x0 P u0 i
8.3.1 Ring-spinning/环锭纺 86
) N' m% S7 f+ b- q3 | 8.3.2 New methods of yarn processing/新型纺纱方法 86# b: w* U; Y. Z1 M0 T3 E4 L! k
8.4 Single and ply yarns/单纱和股线 897 e. l# i9 b/ x; V( y5 l6 U
8.5 Special types of yarn/特种纱线 90
" k) F% m9 E. r9 v: u/ q) m 8.5.1 Fancy yarns/花式纱 90
+ y% q8 f& b' [+ q 8.5.2 Stretch yarns/弹力纱 91
4 o& m: g& f3 s6 O& D( j2 K 8.5.3 Textured yarns 变形纱线 91
. W3 W+ W V5 M 8.6 Blends and mixtures yarns/纱线混纺与混用 92: _% a; S+ }/ X% A1 B
Questions/思考题 93
1 z( I# {' c6 I2 Y3 u5 _ Chapter 9 Yarn Properties/纱线性能 94
! [$ B6 w& Q ] 9.1 Yarn number/纱线细度 94
: T$ a% Y' N& v- J- A# n4 o 9.1.1 Denier system/旦数 947 n& n# k" n# O) ], P% P
9.1.2 Yarn count system/纱线英制支数 949 `6 e6 H9 h q: \
9.1.3 Tex system/线密度 95
/ h5 P. E. Q& m; f& {2 R$ }- y 9.1.4 Metric numbering system/公制支数 95
1 X7 X$ D# r) E5 Y 9.1.5 Conversion in different systems/不同系统之间的换算 95% ]" i+ ~8 H. Z( l, T
9.2 Ply yarn counts and singles equivalent/股线支数与单纱支数 95
% Y. Y; Y2 |7 f% X4 W7 V7 ? 9.3 Yarn twist/纱线捻度 96
3 a' R! s9 }7 O& G 9.4 Yarn hairiness/纱线毛羽 978 k2 ~0 `6 `+ K6 u
9.4.1 Hairiness test method/毛羽测试方法 98
# N2 z1 J4 O5 j% D 9.4.2 Factors affecting hairiness/影响毛羽的因素 98
" I+ a* W- B8 T0 k8 z! _ 9.5 Yarn unevenness/纱线不匀 99
* A/ W1 L, m b; L 9.5.1 Test of yarn unevenness/纱线不匀的测试 99
4 z2 E1 E) v! {$ y: e6 J 9.5.2 Reasons for yarn unevenness/纱线不匀的原因 100
# ^& {1 q( B7 h. A3 O) o 9.6 Classification of yarn quality/纱线质量分析 100) P9 b; q3 v4 f1 f+ G( Y( S% v2 Q) t
Questions/思考题 100) G6 R8 [# R5 o9 M b6 C! V) C; j
Part Ⅳ Textile Fabrics/织物 102: Q3 s2 I \: Z+ Y5 Q& Q" E
Chapter 10 Woven Fabrics/机织物 102
- o2 z6 d" p# F! @- A 10.1 Making woven fabrics/织制机织物 102" B! |. c& Q& [+ ]
10.1.1 The loom/织机 1020 _7 B& h" L, z) Z1 \( r
10.1.2 Loom type/织机类型 104
, D! Z: X/ B8 k1 z1 I 10.1.3 Loom motions/织机运动 104
& p, l- e' q% h( U5 R+ R) k4 _ 10.1.4 Electronics in weaving/电子技术在织机中的应用 105
- n/ {. K+ e" K; R9 L4 ` 10.1.5 The selvage/布边 105 A0 y- J8 h3 U
10.2 Warp yarns and filling yarns/经纱和纬纱 105+ m# G( b* ?1 W; w; ` Y! Q
10.2.1 Identification/鉴别 106
( Q% D. O6 g0 [2 I$ N* t2 z 10.3 Face and back/正面与反面 106
$ o* ^ b) O- [0 J% F 10.3.1 Reasons for differenee/存在差异的原因 107
9 D& I' Y2 B- v- n/ w; g- C1 E# s 10.3.2 Caution/应用的要点 107+ |* N+ O4 e( L! H" |1 e& G
10.4 Top and bottom/顶端和底端 107; z' F& }9 R2 u+ W4 n& g7 j6 M
10.4.1 Reasons for difference/存在差异的原因 107# Z1 P+ v/ B6 L2 S* F7 ^
10.5 Weave floats/组织浮线 108+ X9 C" q! e. L$ E8 e& o T: t( u4 Y
10.6 Basic weaves/基本组织 108& }& w* S* b5 }
10.6.1 Plain weave/平纹组织 108
" Q! H% G) `, x/ y& P: p 10.6.2 Twill weave/斜纹组织 109; r* S; R( @6 q" z
10.6.3 Satin weave/缎纹组织 111
* C5 Q' c1 q$ |( X5 E 10.7 Fabric performance and characteristics/织物性能和参数 112
7 u' ^ L) M3 y 10.7.1 Fabric width/幅宽 112
, @1 q( V9 Z2 T# E 10.7.2 Fabric weight/织物重量 112- v1 q1 ^% d& e9 x
10.7.3 Fabric thickness/织物厚度 113
: k. r: Y+ I4 P) \ 10.7.4 Fabric density/织物密度 113
' B ~( H4 b) d6 T1 { 10.7.5 Fabric count/织物经纬密度 113
2 D' r4 y' K& G v 10.7.6 Fabric defects/织物疵点 113
9 Y0 f2 Z0 \6 b( f Questions/思考题 113+ u/ D- z* E$ T, D
Chapter 11 Knitted Fabrics/针织物 114
8 m2 E9 t* j' k, @% Y6 k h 11.1 Making of knitted fabric/针织物形成 114
. P* Q1 D0 y- B! C' }, y) t 11.1.1 The forming of knitted stitches/线圈的形成 114
( z5 }1 e, O! H; M7 @ 11.1.2 Types of knitted stitches/线圈的种类 116. f; Y6 a ~: G. P
11.2 Weft knits/纬编针织物 117
3 U" R7 i. R2 u9 o- u 11.2.1 Jersey knit fabric/纬平针织物 117; |- M) l9 ?- _: ^( G8 U
11.2.2 Rib knit fabric/罗纹针织物 1188 s" h4 u+ U6 b" A
11.2.3 Purl knit fabric/双反面针织物 119$ M- G! ]2 I2 P# x
11.2.4 Double knits/双面针织物 1203 x9 z J5 h9 M3 h" S5 N0 h
11.2.5 Full-fashioned knits/全成形针织物 120
8 k1 B" w" F' p% Z7 A% w 11.3 Warp knits/经编针织物 121
( I2 B- X# a! a, }' L 11.3.1 Tricot fabrics/特里科经编针织物 1217 _ A& }, ]4 Z6 d. S
11.3.2 Raschel fabrics/拉舍尔经编针织物 1226 i5 h) ?1 Z K }* D- r$ A
11.4 Performance and characteristics/性能和参数 122
9 S8 m: G3 f1 l( W Questions/思考题 123- a5 K3 ^( \- Z5 ]" m+ t3 f/ @
Chapter 12 Nonwoven Fabrics/非织造布 124
+ _6 D( h5 m4 v% E0 f2 y 12.1 Introduction/导论 124$ C8 L. Z2 j7 X/ G* d
12.2 Manufacturing methods/生产方法 125# ?! a; r+ }7 }$ Q
12.2.1 Dry laid system/干法成网 125
8 F# @5 `. X% H, C4 @3 k 12.2.2 Wet laid system/湿法成网 125
3 ^* _, }0 ]" r! Q 12.2.3 Polymer laid system/聚合物挤压法 1253 K N* a$ r% Y: V2 l
12.3 Various nonwovens/各种非织造布 125
4 b1 ]7 X, O& w, c 12.3.1 Needle punched nonwovens/针刺法非织造布 125 O# s) P2 ? V0 {$ n
12.3.2 Bonded web nonwovens/黏合法非织造布 126% _" K7 o9 o9 I! u) ^* R5 o
12.3.3 Spunlaced nonwovens/射流喷网法非织造布 127
) v* r' L0 p# a# r( S 12.3.4 Spunbonded nonwovens/纺粘法非织造布 128( E! A- s; }0 x6 A/ J& C# @1 \" ^
12.3.5 Melt-blown nonwovens/熔喷法非织造布 1297 I( a) Z# t2 q1 Y$ @" I. K
Questions/思考题 1292 j, A2 V8 T8 u; H1 Q0 v! i( \
Part Ⅴ Textile Testing/纺织品测试 130! V- d5 x" x) Y1 t! d
Chapter 13 General Test Methods/常规测试方法 130
0 S1 V @1 y4 z! I& U$ C 13.1 General fiber tests/纤维常规测试 130
% T! \* l# l( P K9 g 13.1.1 Fiber identification/纤维鉴别 1304 s! R F9 v6 s
13.1.2 Fiber length/纤维长度 1345 {4 S: _; W/ ?; Y& ]- O
13.1.3 Fiber fineness or linear density/纤维细度或线密度 135, q$ e; O2 [" {4 ]5 ?+ f$ C6 \
13.1.4 Cross-sectional shape/截面形状 135$ y5 p0 j% h3 F" ^( c1 m# Y
13.1.5 Crimp/卷曲 135
" j. }" I |% I0 F4 ~5 B 13.1.6 Regain/回潮率 136) O. y, q1 f( F
13.1.7 Mechanical properties/机械性能 136: j g9 y7 C! I, M' Y) z
13.1.8 Chemical characteristics/化学性能 136
. }6 d: S0 b% `7 B! ` 13.1.9 Surface characteristics/表面性能 136
3 `' m, k8 }* C$ N; k) A 13.1.10 Density and specific gravity/密度和相对密度 137
T' s% m9 \4 [& |- K4 W 13.2 Special tests for natural fibers/天然纤维的测试 1374 _) Q) \4 m( x T6 a0 H: t
13.2.1 Tests for cotton/棉纤维测试 137" Z! m) r1 X* F) q* i! `2 K. o
13.2.2 Tests for wool/毛纤维测试 139* r0 I: S; X0 h# R5 d" f
13.3 Testing of tensile properties/拉伸性能测试 1409 D F& {- J& G! D+ } i- d6 E
13.3.1 Description of tensile proprieties/拉伸性能的描述 141% K; g/ w' j! f" I
13.3.2 Fiber and yarn tensile testing/纤维和纱线拉伸性能的测试 146& c$ e% f* w. A
13.3.3 Fabric tensile testing/织物拉伸性能测试方法 147; Q; Z: d E! H7 O0 V% Z$ X
Questions/思考题 149
5 h" b. O# M- h' U9 y7 Z Chapter 14 Fabric Abrasion and Pilling/织物磨损与起球 150
9 i2 l" e; t: z+ s6 l: k6 N8 @ 14.1 Types of abrasion/磨损的类型 150
. ]" t# @3 n, ]8 `6 z q! S 14.1.1 Abrasion between fabrics/织物间的磨损 150
! T1 r- J2 L. A) n 14.1.2 Abrasion between fabric and a nontextile surface/织物与非纤维制品表面磨损 150
# j. _" ^& e1 t+ L) a6 Y2 R X7 S) x+ O 14.1.3 Abrasion within fabric/织物内部磨损 151
# k. q! V2 D/ L" _) S 14.1.4 Abrasion by foreign materials within the fabric/与织物内部其他材料的磨损 151( ]/ \3 l. k% |' H
14.2 Factors affecting fabric abrasion resistance/影响耐磨性能的因素 151
( w( j# e3 Z+ w* h& [3 P 14.2.1 Fabric properties/织物性能 151& M$ K- e1 J* C0 ^( i b' |
14.2.2 Other factors/其他因素 153* r5 K; y0 T0 e1 s
14.3 Abrasion testing/磨损测试 154
. K% f9 i* S6 F8 [1 o 14.3.1 Visual comparison with an unabraded specimen/与未磨损样品视觉对比 154- j6 f1 [2 T5 \
14.3.2 Number of cycles to produce a hole/产生磨损破洞需要的摩擦圈数 154" p, Q: h3 T+ v% Q
14.3.3 Change in a physical property/物理性能的变化 154, i0 O8 k8 c5 |! X( g
14.3.4 Microscopic examination/显微镜观测 155
# @4 I6 j2 M3 {# a; S1 x/ y( D 14.4 Aesthetics of abrasion and wear/穿着和磨损对美感的影响 155& N. ^ X; R% E) {
14.4.1 Color changes caused by abrasion/磨损引起的颜色变化 155* W' {* J, p* s$ _
14.4.2 Pilling/起球 156$ M5 A7 A$ l$ x
Questions/思考题 157
N, \" p" r1 N5 i0 }" b( [ O Chapter 15 Fabric Hand and Drape/织物手感与悬垂 1580 N& i: p: ]: b, R8 }, M2 \
15.1 Fabric hand/织物手感 158# F2 N- s3 G. B+ T6 ?' h
15.2 Fabric drape/织物悬垂 159* C0 f `) F3 r& s
15.3 Measurement of hand and drape/手感与悬垂的评价 1613 J' L$ O, K& O5 m, Z
15.3.1 Subjective evaluation/主观评定法 161
* A6 \* |: W- I: ^) U& f 15.3.2 Quantitative measurement/定量评定法 162
. j/ t- J$ U5 ^% d. y5 L; _% D, s 15.3.3 Kawabata evaluation system/KES评定法 163
3 [/ a7 ]1 Y/ ?* C Questions/思考题 163, ?+ F$ P) D& M* f+ l0 Z: {0 M
Chapter 16 Fabric Colorfastness/织物染色牢度 164$ X9 Z& x$ W; Y6 h8 `+ T8 T9 K
16.1 Evaluation of color and colorfastness/颜色和染色牢度评定方法 164
5 p4 d( ~$ h$ T' @- Q# P2 `6 V. \ 16.2 Colorfastness tests/染色牢度测试 164
6 N4 d# W: W3 ` 16.2.1 Colorfastness to crocking/耐摩擦色牢度 164: _3 H! B4 k/ V
16.2.2 Colorfastness to laundering and bleaching/耐洗涤和耐漂白色牢 165
5 ]" {# e: Q1 p7 j* I 16.2.3 Colorfastness to drycleaning/耐干洗色牢度 166( a3 m W0 A) h2 a8 \8 \4 {8 {+ A
16.2.4 Colorfastness to perspiration/耐汗渍色牢度 166' p; Q* A+ n4 m/ X' n* U) m4 q
16.2.5 Colorfastness to water/耐水浸色牢度 166" ~$ O- j+ J1 I9 c
16.2.6 Colorfastness to light/耐光照色牢度 167
& S9 _" \% ^% [$ ^% n T+ T2 S" i; U/ v p 16.2.7 Colorfastness to atmospheric contaminants/耐空气污染色牢度 1686 n z# y5 C* e* A- S+ p
Questions/思考题 168
- Z1 W% u1 {4 G Chapter 17 Fabric Flammability/织物可燃性 169
/ k6 v ]7 ]! P. m! H4 g 17.1 Flammability standards/可燃性标准 169" W) U- t7 s+ p' k9 j! I5 p- u* {
17.2 Properties affecting flammability/影响可燃性的因素 169
! F$ E; I9 c" K, s6 s 17.3 Flammability testing/可燃性测试 171
/ S2 y- a- s' i {( y" ?) g- ` 17.3.1 Forty-five degree angle test/45°燃烧测试法 171/ D6 L# M' P% ^+ Y- B/ r
17.3.2 Vertical flame tests/垂直燃烧测试法 172! P X7 p* G" I: F5 f7 I* I4 f" ?
17.3.3 Carpet testing/地毯测试 172
3 T4 C2 S& L# s& o) m 17.3.4 Cigarette tests/卷烟点燃测试 172% R2 |( t) ]! p& q( ^5 ~
17.3.5 Other standard flammability tests/其他可燃性测试 173! ?* h) ^' r" m% u& d( J
Questions/思考题 173% \; a- h) L3 m* g- f% g! q/ z2 Q; s
Chapter 18 Comfort of Textiles/纺织品舒适性 174
L! \8 [5 t* I& [# | 18.1 Physical phenomena affecting thermal comfort/影响热舒适性能的物理现象 174
9 Y5 X8 w' r ^$ A2 n 18.1.1 Heat transfer/热传递 174
3 x0 d* H# L# _" R: c 18.1.2 Moisture transfer/湿传递 175& P! D% p) Q* V+ \( _
18.1.3 Water resistance/抗水性 175$ _+ [; f( M% S+ h& s8 D5 G
18.1.4 Air transfer/透气性 1769 n1 H6 H Q2 G% I9 L: n9 E
18.1.5 Porosity and cover factor/多孔性和覆盖系数 176" q& P; M7 r' p8 u/ u
18.1.6 Electrostatic propensity/静电 177' u: A: m; y, u$ H* l" ~4 E
18.2 Evaluations of textile properties related to comfort/与舒适性相关的纺织品性能评价 177
2 Y8 J- H# ?& x% W 18.2.1 Heat transfer/热传递 178
0 H# a9 i4 j' \, L- | 18.2.2 Moisture properties/湿传递性能 179
( w$ H3 z/ F3 C( q. A/ Y- u$ f2 [ 18.2.3 Air permeability/透气性 179
) n$ Z) }$ m( [; ?& ], }* a* B 18.2.4 Porosity/孔隙率 180
! z( V, [' {; w$ ` 18.2.5 Electrostatic tests/静电测试 180
7 d( P2 I) b% `1 N; L1 H Questions/思考题 180
1 z7 w! F- C3 J: |' n+ YAppendix/附录 181
0 K0 X3 N) u! T2 I" d AATCC:AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS/美国纺织化学家与染色家协会 181
0 q0 X: r' R4 ]/ g P ASTM:AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR TESTING AND MATERIALS/美国材料试验学会 184
! C, T& X6 u2 oVocabulary/词汇表 189- k( ~3 i% p: u2 a i3 Q
References/参考文献 197
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