
纺织材料学(双语教材),刘妍,熊磊,PDF。普通高等教育“十一五”国家级规划教材(本科),纺织工程专业双语教材,电子目录,14M。9 w( f1 V/ {# p( i Z5 @8 J$ P$ p
e7 x5 t7 o7 U/ J' }4 B! p/ U+ b内容提要
. C8 y9 ]4 c3 \本书讨论了纤维、纱线与织物(包括机织物、针织物及非织造布)的结构、机械性能、物理性能及使用性能。涉及的纤维势括天然纤维(如棉、毛、麻、丝等)、传统化学纤维及新型化学纤维。本书同时介绍了纤维、纱线和织物的各种标准测试方法(包括国际上常用的ASTM, AATCC及GB等方法),并讨论了与各种测试方法有关的测试原理及对测试结果的影响因素。. r3 m9 j: [: I5 q" H% |5 g$ C
本书可供高等纺织院校纺织、服装相关专业的本科生及研究生作为《纺织材料学》的双语教材或专业英语教材,也可供其他专业师生、纺织贸易专业人员和科研及生产单位的技术人员参考。
7 V* F; L5 w' y& c* t5 f0 F# h目录
7 r; n8 t8 s _6 l g3 H5 l: s3 nPart Ⅰ An Introduction to Textiles/纺织入门 18* _9 {. T$ q7 ]/ l- |. ]
Chapter 1 Introduction/介绍 18
6 Z* k* R, Y1 o: R 1.1 ASTM Standard Terminology Relating to Textiles/ASTM纺织标准术语 18! {0 u' p( }% o0 o3 A& s
1.2 Fiber history/纤维历史 26# X# ]0 n, C9 f. A3 G% s
1.2.1 Natural fibers/天然纤维 26
, ~, s- ~9 `( k z) @- w 1.2.2 Man-made fibers/化学纤维 27/ F& [7 m! `6 i4 j0 {
Questions/思考题 30
$ a' Y5 M9 X2 h. I& y! lPart Ⅱ Textile Fibers/纺织纤维 32
2 [4 [) V5 M; R- E) ?' R Chapter 2 Natural Cellulosic Fibers/天然纤维素纤维 32
5 m& f7 d1 @3 U5 z4 M* f# j 2.1 Cotton/棉 33
- U+ X) u- O2 h2 a# E 2.1.1 Nature of cotton/棉花的种类 33; y9 e2 a: G, f, j" z1 A
2.1.2 Classification/分类 344 E7 _. S( @2 ]0 n* |3 Z
2.1.3 Growth and structure of cotton/棉纤维的生长与结构 34* z6 _2 H+ T7 j8 k% k- ~( L0 V
2.1.4 Maturity/成熟度 36
4 ]1 v' ^& I9 Q- j 2.1.5 Cotton properties/棉纤维的性能 38
# Q5 j( f; S; ?4 p7 l' S 2.1.6 Cotton classification/棉花分级 39
/ |1 _6 F: r7 Y4 h4 |5 G2 i, y 2.2 Bast fibers/韧皮纤维 40/ Z4 H+ U; [0 V4 S) A+ ^, b6 z
2.2.1 Flax (linen)/亚麻,亚麻织物 41
) c3 Q3 R6 O# x* K1 y, M 2.2.2 Ramie/苎麻 43/ @) T! B6 L6 k: u6 Y) q: Z
2.2.3 Hemp/汉麻 44
3 Y9 Z7 B* u4 t6 i( V 2.2.4 Jute/黄麻 446 q. D- ]2 ~/ [+ r# Y6 Z, }
Questions/思考题 45
- A% D- e! }5 L Chapter 3 Natural Protein Fibers/天然蛋白质纤维 46
% V8 }# G7 ?# I' d4 d 3.1 Wool/绵羊毛 46
( z* C$ ^7 [( l2 B5 v$ x! n# f' f5 \ 3.1.1 Wool production and history/羊毛生产和历史 46& b& _9 d; t# f* R
3.1.2 Wool grading/羊毛分级 47
F- c" R) U. M8 t1 L 3.1.3 Wool structure/羊毛结构 47
" r6 W6 k' W1 B7 V3 X& [ 3.1.4 Wool properties/羊毛性能 48
/ A% J2 f5 P1 G 3.2 Specialty animal fibers/特种动物毛 51
6 w8 P" m6 }& _* T) y' q 3.3 Silk/丝 52
4 C8 B. ~( L' s1 M4 m+ O Questions/思考题 54; a& ~" S E9 [; t, e5 S) I
Chapter 4 Man-made Fibers/化学纤维 550 w/ [4 p/ I* f0 ]% t* A
4.1 Manufacturing processing of fiber/纤维生产工艺 55: v, f$ \7 J' h. ?3 |' _9 G' V9 I4 b
4.1.1 Wet spinning/湿法纺丝 56
/ Y6 Y$ L# J! T$ P 4.1.2 Dry spinning/干法纺丝 56, D1 z0 a2 @1 [
4.1.3 Melt spinning/熔体法纺丝 56
" [' |& O; c1 z* u# g, y' D 4.1.4 Gel spinning/凝胶纺丝 57$ Z6 Z$ L" h7 m
4.2 Regenerated fibers/再生纤维 57
6 @6 E/ C$ D9 K; i 4.2.1 Acetate/醋酯纤维 575 n; ^1 e7 A1 x. G: A+ d- ~
4.2.2 Triacetate/三醋酯纤维 59
- t% D% u8 B* C% q6 `! o 4.2.3 Viscose fibers/粘胶纤维 596 ^ ~; s% i+ M1 q
4.3 Synthetic fibers/合成纤维 60, ~/ C7 |5 h5 L7 J* y* U V8 @4 W" _
4.3.1 Acrylic/腈纶 60
3 p" |1 o) s* v. Y 4.3.2 Modacrylic/改性腈纶 61
J* s) k1 Z( H- q$ a9 L0 j, k% d 4.3.3 Nylon/锦纶 61
% Z3 a( N- C% e$ ]' s* h 4.3.4 Polyester/涤纶 62
3 t1 ^9 d9 i A9 P# ~ 4.3.5 PBI/聚苯并咪唑纤维 63
3 Q; C2 H: y3 U9 s. b+ S/ K 4.3.6 Vinal/聚乙烯醇纤维 63
5 R$ A5 h, D6 A; h 4.3.7 Olefin/聚烯烃纤维 63% M( s- @# `8 Y6 i0 [/ P
4.3.8 Aramid/芳纶 64
2 q: ]: L9 S) v( y 4.3.9 Lycra/莱卡 64
! m: c& Z: f6 o @. E 4.4 Other man-made fibers/其他化学纤维 66 P- T+ X' E6 A! d
4.4.1 Glass/玻璃纤维 66
3 a+ i8 m* g! n; P7 X+ A 4.4.2 Metallic/金属纤维 67
' E" L$ A) ?3 y( N1 J Questions/思考题 67
/ {/ ^, F/ T1 j+ f Chapter 5 New Fibers/新型纤维 689 A7 T. K/ y1 {
5.1 Carbon fibers/碳纤维 68) s& y8 Y) t! u: y
5.2 Fluorocarbon/氟碳纤维 68
) s3 N; N1 \8 [% j: ~ Y 5.3 Lyocell fibers(Tencel)/莱塞尔纤维 68
, V* z# I! N5 e+ W( r- \/ ? 5.4 High-wet-modulus fibers/高湿模量纤维 69" S% |' W# S. C, H6 _
5.4.1 Modal fibers/莫代尔纤维 69
- d* x L9 l' S 5.4.2 Richcel/丽赛纤维 70" H5 T! X. Z5 L1 ] i& o N
5.5 Soybean protein composite fibers/大豆蛋白复合纤维 70
( s; F6 H3 a0 d; v 5.6 PLA fiber/聚左旋乳酸纤维 71
7 K* d8 Y% g& m% e$ ] 5.7 Heterogenous fibers/复合纤维 714 l8 E. E+ \" @' t- p% }& O& w
5.7.1 Bicomponent or multicomponent/双组分或多组分 72
j4 u N2 C8 `2 Z4 I4 P 5.7.2 Biconstituent or multiconstituent/双成分或多成分 73; ~4 s' K( ^, @% } o
5.7.3 Matrix or matrix-fibril/基质型纤维 73! L, Q' c4 ?% Q; F' e! j, q0 ]" a, E
5.8 Differential fibers/差别化纤维 749 T u. y# |8 t; M3 g7 n2 e6 e
5.9 Functional fibers/功能性纤维 74
) g9 J! _6 [5 O) a3 s7 v+ N 5.10 High performance fibers/高性能纤维 74
, v+ `* }( `( Y; R2 X- o Questions/思考题 74
, a$ M3 b( t" S+ y- ]' w4 z( y: P Chapter 6 The Property of Absorbing Moisture/吸湿性 75 I+ Y# ~1 P7 z
6.1 Orientation and crystallization/取向与结晶 75! p5 w& J: q; @. H. `
6.2 Moisture sorption/吸湿性 75
- t$ S+ X: o* G, r' g8 @8 y 6.2.1 Regain and moisture content/回潮率与含水率 75& G9 ^ ?5 f% f/ U' ] B. I* m
6.2.2 Relation between regain and relative humidity/回潮率与相对湿度的关系 75
+ S2 E& m4 a* E. n/ R { 6.2.3 Comparison of various materials/不同材料吸湿性的对比 76 @* l) R! v5 C: N3 V. b3 ^ ~
6.2.4 Theories of moisture sorption/吸湿理论 78* ?5 J# P, ~3 t$ h- {
Questions/思考题 809 A$ i) p+ K* }' D
Chapter 7 Other Physical Properties of Textile Fibers/纤维的其他物理性能 81( J8 \- V3 F, @: @* W: t
7.1 Electronic properties/电学性能 81
Q+ j" j* |- d) \% ^1 \- c 7.1.1 Definitions/定义 81
) t. h7 S2 U4 x# f 7.2 Optical properties/光学性能 821 ^) v9 O7 H d: | d
7.3 Thermal properties/热学性能 83
, I5 k: }* b* ?& w; j3 O7 k 7.3.1 Thermal parameters/热力学参数 83
$ b/ s, K: I/ l+ k. ~" v( p; E) W 7.3.2 A comparison of temperature effects/温度效应比较 83
+ R: Z- G4 m8 X$ u/ N* c. V4 W Questions/思考题 83$ M1 j( |: e" N6 D8 N
Part Ⅲ Textile Yarns/纺织纱线 841 o J/ O9 b+ N" l5 k6 M& p
Chapter 8 Yarn Processing and Construction/纱线制造与结构 84
8 l" Z1 V$ v8 ?8 f 8.1 Spun yarns/短纤纱 859 h$ I( l9 r% A7 O
8.2 Filament yarns/长丝纱 85# a3 _3 b( U6 m1 E: Q8 V3 j
8.3 Methods of yarn processing/纺纱方法 85
% T+ T; L* {5 e 8.3.1 Ring-spinning/环锭纺 86
" I# f* u" K- w1 c2 Z1 x 8.3.2 New methods of yarn processing/新型纺纱方法 86
~2 s6 e* L9 o" G4 L 8.4 Single and ply yarns/单纱和股线 89
' t1 X3 N5 [+ P& ^2 D$ D 8.5 Special types of yarn/特种纱线 90$ x3 g% t: r6 v
8.5.1 Fancy yarns/花式纱 90
# D$ k3 O$ x" I 8.5.2 Stretch yarns/弹力纱 91/ {% y3 f+ g% f. m3 D; @
8.5.3 Textured yarns 变形纱线 91
) s# f! L: h( A) q" l 8.6 Blends and mixtures yarns/纱线混纺与混用 921 F+ I' D6 o2 O% ~* k) c
Questions/思考题 93
+ q7 q$ }1 o4 P% R Chapter 9 Yarn Properties/纱线性能 94
( d; y5 l) |' g: Q 9.1 Yarn number/纱线细度 945 z, q C! S7 n) z" Z5 ]
9.1.1 Denier system/旦数 94
) n7 d" L0 Y# x0 r+ R8 | 9.1.2 Yarn count system/纱线英制支数 94
9 k8 S [; a; I4 [ 9.1.3 Tex system/线密度 956 u R8 a9 V8 d, {, j6 @. y8 ^
9.1.4 Metric numbering system/公制支数 95- T7 q9 r ]+ U0 o" u6 g- I7 T+ P/ F% T' m
9.1.5 Conversion in different systems/不同系统之间的换算 95
/ n: e7 q" {0 H3 k& j1 d% j) ^ T 9.2 Ply yarn counts and singles equivalent/股线支数与单纱支数 954 R; s) p5 O% K5 x
9.3 Yarn twist/纱线捻度 969 y2 I1 R2 o3 M! e& {
9.4 Yarn hairiness/纱线毛羽 97
$ Z8 g7 j! [( g! j! N. d 9.4.1 Hairiness test method/毛羽测试方法 98 i* \6 q+ b! i( B+ b- k
9.4.2 Factors affecting hairiness/影响毛羽的因素 984 e8 h8 H" E. N- b1 x0 M3 e
9.5 Yarn unevenness/纱线不匀 994 ?2 k6 E( ~# C+ y4 G6 t
9.5.1 Test of yarn unevenness/纱线不匀的测试 99! f% @6 }. j8 C* Y! f4 w& q, i
9.5.2 Reasons for yarn unevenness/纱线不匀的原因 1009 O5 W, A! V H
9.6 Classification of yarn quality/纱线质量分析 100
7 J& Z: L- Z5 j, V( f Questions/思考题 1007 ~7 o7 d b' `* s9 `
Part Ⅳ Textile Fabrics/织物 1021 M4 T4 ~) K' e$ Q; l/ _- M1 l L
Chapter 10 Woven Fabrics/机织物 102, F e! V# N8 @0 D/ j9 D" ~
10.1 Making woven fabrics/织制机织物 1024 y: w% |6 \# t9 m1 q
10.1.1 The loom/织机 102
; X; e( d0 D: F 10.1.2 Loom type/织机类型 104
; Y0 P6 w* C( N! U# `& r 10.1.3 Loom motions/织机运动 104
" T1 k+ j0 y7 {6 G! Q% x( A4 C7 M 10.1.4 Electronics in weaving/电子技术在织机中的应用 105
9 p( V; Y# h2 Y0 E; x' ~' p0 g3 h! \ 10.1.5 The selvage/布边 1051 n, X! i& O r
10.2 Warp yarns and filling yarns/经纱和纬纱 105& c6 P H$ ?: S0 `2 g3 `
10.2.1 Identification/鉴别 106
! R* |6 O5 T( w, H6 Z6 L 10.3 Face and back/正面与反面 106
& U7 r" R# ?+ h# k6 I; D 10.3.1 Reasons for differenee/存在差异的原因 107; Q5 R0 `% P8 _) a$ Q, U$ w
10.3.2 Caution/应用的要点 107
6 Y% c( Y& r; y3 X t3 o 10.4 Top and bottom/顶端和底端 1073 n2 ]' b `5 H8 ^& y
10.4.1 Reasons for difference/存在差异的原因 107
# ?. D1 Y2 S6 G6 a 10.5 Weave floats/组织浮线 108
, N2 ^% R; c" G, P+ f 10.6 Basic weaves/基本组织 1081 A( S' Y2 z4 D0 J; h$ ^% [7 r
10.6.1 Plain weave/平纹组织 108: I, p( M' K5 }* B/ W
10.6.2 Twill weave/斜纹组织 109
2 d6 E& E9 M$ M# K 10.6.3 Satin weave/缎纹组织 1113 g8 g# d9 L. R+ y- _
10.7 Fabric performance and characteristics/织物性能和参数 112
& m" J) W% f$ x( I$ b/ P 10.7.1 Fabric width/幅宽 112! O2 ?1 a8 m1 H2 L
10.7.2 Fabric weight/织物重量 112# M2 C& O6 n1 Q! h. o
10.7.3 Fabric thickness/织物厚度 113
' Z7 m' {% E4 c) \ 10.7.4 Fabric density/织物密度 113& d. I: z' {# I8 N
10.7.5 Fabric count/织物经纬密度 113
4 w- y: |. Y9 o 10.7.6 Fabric defects/织物疵点 113
% s: \% @3 b C" R Questions/思考题 1134 d( G& v Q4 z2 L# C* V
Chapter 11 Knitted Fabrics/针织物 114
9 ]- j4 h# | k) d# q; E 11.1 Making of knitted fabric/针织物形成 114, m' p0 v( l4 A% D
11.1.1 The forming of knitted stitches/线圈的形成 114
+ Y( J( U# o4 n- N8 N( k 11.1.2 Types of knitted stitches/线圈的种类 1164 |! p+ D( K1 r' B) h
11.2 Weft knits/纬编针织物 1173 v. Q2 K2 `, j* u( I
11.2.1 Jersey knit fabric/纬平针织物 117
' M) U; F3 |: m% @1 N/ j 11.2.2 Rib knit fabric/罗纹针织物 118 i! z3 v8 K, ~5 S; f6 l" y
11.2.3 Purl knit fabric/双反面针织物 119
! j: h% V) T% U/ S$ Q& P& t. D% G 11.2.4 Double knits/双面针织物 120
4 V$ b* b! |: z 11.2.5 Full-fashioned knits/全成形针织物 120# W' E3 i) c! P% [. J
11.3 Warp knits/经编针织物 1216 e# p. W7 ?+ e
11.3.1 Tricot fabrics/特里科经编针织物 121
$ S, H+ U% ~( A3 R4 \+ A) @ 11.3.2 Raschel fabrics/拉舍尔经编针织物 122( F* T6 e- T; C3 _& f, |
11.4 Performance and characteristics/性能和参数 122
/ F% v+ b4 _/ L- ^& p) y6 c Questions/思考题 123
7 n& i h' t7 E* y, ^5 _ Chapter 12 Nonwoven Fabrics/非织造布 124
" ?1 ~" i. V7 M C 12.1 Introduction/导论 124
' e" {, y6 Z+ h" D5 o! T, w 12.2 Manufacturing methods/生产方法 125 Z- ?7 u* [- V* ]. T8 Q9 p% E
12.2.1 Dry laid system/干法成网 1259 x6 U9 X5 V7 U1 C* Z2 }
12.2.2 Wet laid system/湿法成网 125
3 |2 D& b6 A9 h/ s 12.2.3 Polymer laid system/聚合物挤压法 125
+ W7 `* `6 N: D3 J0 q/ o 12.3 Various nonwovens/各种非织造布 1250 i7 v' g, J/ `( L& U
12.3.1 Needle punched nonwovens/针刺法非织造布 125. s* p6 q! w6 s: ~0 L; J- P
12.3.2 Bonded web nonwovens/黏合法非织造布 126
" C- c! z4 B! s. o; g 12.3.3 Spunlaced nonwovens/射流喷网法非织造布 127
5 I( v8 E2 L+ _$ w' `# b! R- W' h# } 12.3.4 Spunbonded nonwovens/纺粘法非织造布 128, u: M: \- P& B' w8 I% k4 u$ `& c
12.3.5 Melt-blown nonwovens/熔喷法非织造布 1293 o3 k; _; w: [, M
Questions/思考题 129
$ e* J, k- K/ N$ o0 {" R& \Part Ⅴ Textile Testing/纺织品测试 130; f1 {$ f- _. k
Chapter 13 General Test Methods/常规测试方法 130
, a# p8 @; g' v: ~7 r 13.1 General fiber tests/纤维常规测试 130: S6 K& B3 W8 D X
13.1.1 Fiber identification/纤维鉴别 130* y8 Q5 d6 t, F3 T3 U! r
13.1.2 Fiber length/纤维长度 134
* `0 E/ j( C# z) j0 s' k0 d 13.1.3 Fiber fineness or linear density/纤维细度或线密度 1351 {& E/ r+ {1 s0 ]+ n3 J" Q
13.1.4 Cross-sectional shape/截面形状 1357 b, k& O% J! y; D: L3 D6 T+ n+ z
13.1.5 Crimp/卷曲 135
8 l- D9 R0 s. u 13.1.6 Regain/回潮率 136
! l6 u) H% a4 ^3 C0 {, m) A- f 13.1.7 Mechanical properties/机械性能 1364 l% A3 ^6 ~5 k: n# C# J
13.1.8 Chemical characteristics/化学性能 1365 ^2 | p/ L s$ n
13.1.9 Surface characteristics/表面性能 136, Y( d7 Y0 ~) }, X* _! P; O8 Y
13.1.10 Density and specific gravity/密度和相对密度 137, R# E; {" s& B' v. \; V
13.2 Special tests for natural fibers/天然纤维的测试 137
. g" R0 F, Z7 D" F* T$ T 13.2.1 Tests for cotton/棉纤维测试 137
1 k/ U9 O, w& b1 f2 t, {& L; Q0 A* q 13.2.2 Tests for wool/毛纤维测试 139
/ `7 ]! S7 D8 i2 W! @( L 13.3 Testing of tensile properties/拉伸性能测试 140* d" M5 ]6 Y, Y3 @+ K2 h, p- s9 k
13.3.1 Description of tensile proprieties/拉伸性能的描述 141
6 k6 y! a5 S0 m, h; S 13.3.2 Fiber and yarn tensile testing/纤维和纱线拉伸性能的测试 1464 ? o" Q7 x' i% ^. q7 P5 G# M: D
13.3.3 Fabric tensile testing/织物拉伸性能测试方法 147
6 T9 w) J9 l8 d4 S( H Questions/思考题 1499 s- ]6 ~; V. ?6 b: @9 c& P
Chapter 14 Fabric Abrasion and Pilling/织物磨损与起球 150
a+ }& ^7 C8 o6 g) Y7 p8 {$ v4 l 14.1 Types of abrasion/磨损的类型 150
- O5 M8 _, r% o* b$ q2 h5 U 14.1.1 Abrasion between fabrics/织物间的磨损 1501 g* \- M4 p z2 X: G$ K% z$ G! m
14.1.2 Abrasion between fabric and a nontextile surface/织物与非纤维制品表面磨损 150- K9 e( R9 ?7 c5 }0 ]% V% e
14.1.3 Abrasion within fabric/织物内部磨损 151# O6 w& M R& F. y9 P
14.1.4 Abrasion by foreign materials within the fabric/与织物内部其他材料的磨损 151
& Z7 X, Q/ e- ?6 U 14.2 Factors affecting fabric abrasion resistance/影响耐磨性能的因素 151" {4 M: c+ ]% v. a7 r9 e+ U9 v
14.2.1 Fabric properties/织物性能 151' E% X9 ^/ l% n( ]' Q% m
14.2.2 Other factors/其他因素 153
% _5 ^5 c9 t& F1 V) [ 14.3 Abrasion testing/磨损测试 154
q8 ^( b3 ^" Q# v3 t5 B$ I } 14.3.1 Visual comparison with an unabraded specimen/与未磨损样品视觉对比 154' d1 i; _% ^0 s# F9 }
14.3.2 Number of cycles to produce a hole/产生磨损破洞需要的摩擦圈数 154
H0 O5 K* Q! e$ [& y( g 14.3.3 Change in a physical property/物理性能的变化 154* Y7 L8 N! x! h$ v1 d# I2 a0 J! V
14.3.4 Microscopic examination/显微镜观测 1554 {1 l2 y4 c) W( L
14.4 Aesthetics of abrasion and wear/穿着和磨损对美感的影响 1552 q0 L& {0 r m: W; j
14.4.1 Color changes caused by abrasion/磨损引起的颜色变化 155
u4 E" J0 U8 x0 T3 C7 X 14.4.2 Pilling/起球 156
: w1 S( _4 ^1 r4 @/ M# v. d Questions/思考题 157
. j. ]. ]( G7 s1 h% t0 P Chapter 15 Fabric Hand and Drape/织物手感与悬垂 158
* U6 J" S u7 L$ ]+ @9 m 15.1 Fabric hand/织物手感 158
* D- b5 U- s& D3 [ 15.2 Fabric drape/织物悬垂 159
+ C+ V2 q$ P6 S& M9 K7 |6 r 15.3 Measurement of hand and drape/手感与悬垂的评价 161
# k+ o6 t3 Q% R8 v: W* v/ o* f 15.3.1 Subjective evaluation/主观评定法 161
4 J% h$ r' Y/ j5 M3 E$ |" B 15.3.2 Quantitative measurement/定量评定法 162
8 q, f6 _ U: I" S0 q0 t 15.3.3 Kawabata evaluation system/KES评定法 163
8 K$ p0 ]6 H8 G. L; G- e. w Questions/思考题 163
; M, G% [0 @' O Chapter 16 Fabric Colorfastness/织物染色牢度 164) J" n6 X: O6 W% E% g4 n
16.1 Evaluation of color and colorfastness/颜色和染色牢度评定方法 1641 @3 `1 h% E' C5 N" C9 {, {" U
16.2 Colorfastness tests/染色牢度测试 164$ F# W% K8 f) K A
16.2.1 Colorfastness to crocking/耐摩擦色牢度 164- |& i! ~$ \2 Y) K+ y
16.2.2 Colorfastness to laundering and bleaching/耐洗涤和耐漂白色牢 165
5 o8 O& q0 m( e 16.2.3 Colorfastness to drycleaning/耐干洗色牢度 166
: \* G6 J. |2 p! f- K) @0 t 16.2.4 Colorfastness to perspiration/耐汗渍色牢度 166/ y9 [2 k2 l1 W
16.2.5 Colorfastness to water/耐水浸色牢度 166* z3 Q& v/ s% V
16.2.6 Colorfastness to light/耐光照色牢度 167
& G: N+ M2 ~' @* E 16.2.7 Colorfastness to atmospheric contaminants/耐空气污染色牢度 1687 _' z3 r9 o8 A7 `# ]
Questions/思考题 168( l' I/ b! X% |& U* L( k: r6 E
Chapter 17 Fabric Flammability/织物可燃性 169
: W) b' H- L; \) I 17.1 Flammability standards/可燃性标准 1693 d6 q5 A# U' s7 n# W Z' L
17.2 Properties affecting flammability/影响可燃性的因素 169$ Z1 Z2 X# V! P9 p# Z) \. i+ Q
17.3 Flammability testing/可燃性测试 1712 J% _3 v& C- k' B
17.3.1 Forty-five degree angle test/45°燃烧测试法 171
- |8 o+ K0 R3 `1 \" i# E% l 17.3.2 Vertical flame tests/垂直燃烧测试法 172
: F$ q$ H3 \2 J% `" \, h9 e 17.3.3 Carpet testing/地毯测试 172( s, P$ n( Q( x! Z
17.3.4 Cigarette tests/卷烟点燃测试 172
& E7 M! D' s, l A/ V# w% ~1 h 17.3.5 Other standard flammability tests/其他可燃性测试 173
! W$ } {! t$ E- k, ]8 f Questions/思考题 173
( ~# F& I# @/ ?: W Chapter 18 Comfort of Textiles/纺织品舒适性 174
$ C/ [+ j4 A7 F) |: |- w, X6 @ 18.1 Physical phenomena affecting thermal comfort/影响热舒适性能的物理现象 174
. Q; K9 ]5 ]* B$ u1 h6 ^% h 18.1.1 Heat transfer/热传递 174& ], `$ F1 ]0 Q$ u$ ]0 F0 R5 |
18.1.2 Moisture transfer/湿传递 175
5 M/ v; Y& ?' n 18.1.3 Water resistance/抗水性 1759 @! S& _ g) I* I. Y5 A2 s: f* h
18.1.4 Air transfer/透气性 176' j1 G. E( S4 B6 f6 g
18.1.5 Porosity and cover factor/多孔性和覆盖系数 176 d- d- w S% G3 P4 T
18.1.6 Electrostatic propensity/静电 1772 S* \& T/ v8 W, }* n
18.2 Evaluations of textile properties related to comfort/与舒适性相关的纺织品性能评价 177
. M3 `. w3 [8 ]" H6 Q 18.2.1 Heat transfer/热传递 1785 `& A# @! N5 X* @: c: X: d
18.2.2 Moisture properties/湿传递性能 179
" O* ^& D) ]% R 18.2.3 Air permeability/透气性 1794 z- ~6 ]+ O3 l* a! d& C8 L
18.2.4 Porosity/孔隙率 180
& \+ K$ t7 P' r9 w: _ 18.2.5 Electrostatic tests/静电测试 1805 {4 b5 b. K$ Z' d) ]2 ]4 x: T6 [
Questions/思考题 180, U; O5 y$ p! A* o* t
Appendix/附录 181: V/ N# k1 m' Q7 y3 v0 i
AATCC:AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS/美国纺织化学家与染色家协会 181; v* b% f2 R- U: Z9 ]
ASTM:AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR TESTING AND MATERIALS/美国材料试验学会 184% Z% i/ I4 `. _; ~! M5 e0 v( f
Vocabulary/词汇表 1894 A2 I2 b7 S p7 @% K
References/参考文献 1971 [8 v2 a9 B$ i2 F. g- [+ u) W
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