
纺织材料学(双语教材),刘妍,熊磊,PDF。普通高等教育“十一五”国家级规划教材(本科),纺织工程专业双语教材,电子目录,14M。- Z+ U V. O) v' X& V1 q: q
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内容提要7 @5 p# b! [9 y j! o
本书讨论了纤维、纱线与织物(包括机织物、针织物及非织造布)的结构、机械性能、物理性能及使用性能。涉及的纤维势括天然纤维(如棉、毛、麻、丝等)、传统化学纤维及新型化学纤维。本书同时介绍了纤维、纱线和织物的各种标准测试方法(包括国际上常用的ASTM, AATCC及GB等方法),并讨论了与各种测试方法有关的测试原理及对测试结果的影响因素。
9 \. C0 R6 m5 M6 H) a2 n) V9 s本书可供高等纺织院校纺织、服装相关专业的本科生及研究生作为《纺织材料学》的双语教材或专业英语教材,也可供其他专业师生、纺织贸易专业人员和科研及生产单位的技术人员参考。4 n- j7 w( I% P
目录- }. ]0 W5 m5 M# k- [4 e
Part Ⅰ An Introduction to Textiles/纺织入门 18
. c5 F v+ Z1 s+ S; q+ }9 S Chapter 1 Introduction/介绍 18
4 V3 ^5 x6 q8 M( l 1.1 ASTM Standard Terminology Relating to Textiles/ASTM纺织标准术语 18, n' q5 E! V3 r" L* R4 i
1.2 Fiber history/纤维历史 26" a: }: v( u+ N( o
1.2.1 Natural fibers/天然纤维 260 Y7 h- n% i: T7 U' s
1.2.2 Man-made fibers/化学纤维 279 i8 p& I: R- a1 i* m$ r6 B
Questions/思考题 30
: A+ W' x ~: u* n3 }Part Ⅱ Textile Fibers/纺织纤维 324 J5 V+ K0 v- S S
Chapter 2 Natural Cellulosic Fibers/天然纤维素纤维 32
6 L9 C+ T. \2 P& \ 2.1 Cotton/棉 33: r2 v! S0 y! S4 |- v$ o3 V& ]4 R9 f
2.1.1 Nature of cotton/棉花的种类 33
2 c+ S$ o& f3 [4 f; T" b 2.1.2 Classification/分类 34
$ X2 }. o k0 u8 S, p) ?1 K 2.1.3 Growth and structure of cotton/棉纤维的生长与结构 34
/ k/ M, n+ G- w) ^7 B- l 2.1.4 Maturity/成熟度 36% w& [. q) P {3 ^: K& j( }
2.1.5 Cotton properties/棉纤维的性能 38
& j' [2 \: Q% N. i4 i 2.1.6 Cotton classification/棉花分级 39! Q6 q% x+ U, j, h4 c$ L; e
2.2 Bast fibers/韧皮纤维 40/ s" R: x+ b3 T9 _' l
2.2.1 Flax (linen)/亚麻,亚麻织物 418 a U# s# m- H
2.2.2 Ramie/苎麻 43
1 g2 h* R5 g+ { a% V/ M/ D" D5 S1 w 2.2.3 Hemp/汉麻 44
# I2 s' ]1 q% K3 Z4 p4 l3 i6 B 2.2.4 Jute/黄麻 44& R |0 R( A% ?( [+ b o# E: }; ^
Questions/思考题 45
# I" y4 [4 R+ w' a ]) a Chapter 3 Natural Protein Fibers/天然蛋白质纤维 46
, ^4 w. [+ X: D# d 3.1 Wool/绵羊毛 461 U9 H; s; b6 V- A0 q
3.1.1 Wool production and history/羊毛生产和历史 46" m* j1 f$ Q+ z2 {
3.1.2 Wool grading/羊毛分级 47
$ _/ W! V0 X9 s: \/ e0 ^) _; q 3.1.3 Wool structure/羊毛结构 479 h* G2 q9 b. ?
3.1.4 Wool properties/羊毛性能 48
% R u0 |6 B2 a! ~ 3.2 Specialty animal fibers/特种动物毛 51/ r( ?& M* m8 ^* \( K
3.3 Silk/丝 52) @9 |5 M% C$ j1 z; `7 v
Questions/思考题 547 a+ P" s2 l3 {9 F+ Q2 p% i, N/ F8 f& _
Chapter 4 Man-made Fibers/化学纤维 55
+ U7 D7 R L4 _) a" a1 O' b 4.1 Manufacturing processing of fiber/纤维生产工艺 55( k, F/ f4 }( q6 U) a
4.1.1 Wet spinning/湿法纺丝 56
1 q1 H4 D1 ?* x% b 4.1.2 Dry spinning/干法纺丝 56
( z q& e" s7 e/ T! f 4.1.3 Melt spinning/熔体法纺丝 56
( _2 H3 Q) l* B c% I( a 4.1.4 Gel spinning/凝胶纺丝 57
1 ` Y2 S9 G; Z M% @9 u; f' ~1 [ 4.2 Regenerated fibers/再生纤维 57! u; e4 {/ B4 d9 N; T
4.2.1 Acetate/醋酯纤维 574 z ?$ {' f( T- i
4.2.2 Triacetate/三醋酯纤维 596 [$ N" S( v; I- n
4.2.3 Viscose fibers/粘胶纤维 59& v* S( [+ x3 r
4.3 Synthetic fibers/合成纤维 60
! l# u- T% v3 ]; u, u: M( L6 A1 C! q 4.3.1 Acrylic/腈纶 60
- E+ ]. I* B' u 4.3.2 Modacrylic/改性腈纶 61) W- n& C5 g, C0 x
4.3.3 Nylon/锦纶 612 x$ Y+ f5 Z7 c
4.3.4 Polyester/涤纶 62
" A: I- U7 `( o% M c4 a 4.3.5 PBI/聚苯并咪唑纤维 63
1 r$ |2 V; }) E2 c$ b% W1 m% m 4.3.6 Vinal/聚乙烯醇纤维 63
2 k) @. W# j& |! |& x3 R$ ? 4.3.7 Olefin/聚烯烃纤维 631 g4 f! q4 X. i, n1 m
4.3.8 Aramid/芳纶 64$ a4 d* t( [, A6 q
4.3.9 Lycra/莱卡 64
# E3 m5 ^. T% S. b/ |! `, G 4.4 Other man-made fibers/其他化学纤维 66
1 G3 _5 Z7 l, T' B; c& S 4.4.1 Glass/玻璃纤维 66
, t' v, g8 B7 O+ Y, e8 H* p 4.4.2 Metallic/金属纤维 67
. H- W7 j+ P, ^$ E! S" D Questions/思考题 67
' J/ C6 z: V$ k* t, D4 c* X) @ Chapter 5 New Fibers/新型纤维 68: {1 E# j5 y# f/ G
5.1 Carbon fibers/碳纤维 68% b) n7 B/ t1 {8 [/ t
5.2 Fluorocarbon/氟碳纤维 68
; F+ s% {% t9 t f 5.3 Lyocell fibers(Tencel)/莱塞尔纤维 68/ s! O9 S$ e* y9 I1 T7 K0 k
5.4 High-wet-modulus fibers/高湿模量纤维 692 q; l% S9 l& W& u) I f
5.4.1 Modal fibers/莫代尔纤维 691 F2 n" [5 G) S
5.4.2 Richcel/丽赛纤维 70. I5 D! q7 h3 d5 J
5.5 Soybean protein composite fibers/大豆蛋白复合纤维 708 b; s" \3 s7 i3 }& X5 i
5.6 PLA fiber/聚左旋乳酸纤维 71
) H4 G' M }, C0 @8 y 5.7 Heterogenous fibers/复合纤维 71
6 z' \7 n0 `! O& [" x 5.7.1 Bicomponent or multicomponent/双组分或多组分 72
6 h6 N8 X2 }* [7 ~# H& f1 x) ^7 z 5.7.2 Biconstituent or multiconstituent/双成分或多成分 73' t' E3 Y. B, m1 l& ]
5.7.3 Matrix or matrix-fibril/基质型纤维 73
' x& J$ m; g+ v 5.8 Differential fibers/差别化纤维 747 h) \, t: @3 ^5 n. }7 _
5.9 Functional fibers/功能性纤维 74
( X0 N$ }9 ]# ?* R7 @1 y 5.10 High performance fibers/高性能纤维 74+ J3 i7 U) W; u5 U
Questions/思考题 74
& n* p/ I/ d& z; \, x1 s Chapter 6 The Property of Absorbing Moisture/吸湿性 75
- z0 F. s) u3 ]# a7 C( \8 G 6.1 Orientation and crystallization/取向与结晶 75
) k4 I' D4 e/ v& u 6.2 Moisture sorption/吸湿性 75
4 O9 A' |: t& |. E! E8 J- { 6.2.1 Regain and moisture content/回潮率与含水率 75& e. N1 c4 y \) i2 E/ v
6.2.2 Relation between regain and relative humidity/回潮率与相对湿度的关系 757 F5 C' Z! E5 g7 N, u1 w. T/ [
6.2.3 Comparison of various materials/不同材料吸湿性的对比 76" f) z# N3 P- y8 D
6.2.4 Theories of moisture sorption/吸湿理论 78
! C3 k& T/ v( s( Q4 h( s7 | Questions/思考题 80% w8 |1 L: D6 J
Chapter 7 Other Physical Properties of Textile Fibers/纤维的其他物理性能 81$ U+ r" z; S# F9 Q8 O1 V& p% F
7.1 Electronic properties/电学性能 81
' A$ h \8 ]. d( b 7.1.1 Definitions/定义 81
/ b8 l$ ]: Y+ t& C1 Q 7.2 Optical properties/光学性能 82
$ P+ [4 g4 ? k! s 7.3 Thermal properties/热学性能 83
" S# }& A0 o, D3 [" ^/ T8 J 7.3.1 Thermal parameters/热力学参数 834 _& O# q; Q( W
7.3.2 A comparison of temperature effects/温度效应比较 83
, h* \' S* l' G! F$ V, i X Questions/思考题 83
) t3 P0 D* h0 \# r- GPart Ⅲ Textile Yarns/纺织纱线 84
9 k X* @. N/ z2 }0 _; A) b0 c Chapter 8 Yarn Processing and Construction/纱线制造与结构 84
Y; }8 S1 P2 [. W! E. K+ @ 8.1 Spun yarns/短纤纱 85
% T4 |: P' z) _+ t. T 8.2 Filament yarns/长丝纱 85# w. z1 ~; S( u; P3 U
8.3 Methods of yarn processing/纺纱方法 85
! u" g; r( i6 ?: I- d0 G' ] 8.3.1 Ring-spinning/环锭纺 86
+ [/ P) d! k9 {1 f6 K* h5 ^- S 8.3.2 New methods of yarn processing/新型纺纱方法 864 e! P' N1 z4 }/ E: P
8.4 Single and ply yarns/单纱和股线 890 ~* e3 G" d) S" `7 S
8.5 Special types of yarn/特种纱线 90
$ B8 D1 f7 j' Y 8.5.1 Fancy yarns/花式纱 90
6 L! n1 J7 v" g0 m+ @2 [ s7 { 8.5.2 Stretch yarns/弹力纱 915 O, z+ R6 [ I* ~' f
8.5.3 Textured yarns 变形纱线 91
' ~1 B0 J, M1 K6 G 8.6 Blends and mixtures yarns/纱线混纺与混用 925 W+ r0 I; R: a1 v9 Y# j$ |' a
Questions/思考题 93
* Z" C0 S7 m# C3 k* ]3 c Chapter 9 Yarn Properties/纱线性能 94
# R& Z# m' ]- U4 [1 c) G* k 9.1 Yarn number/纱线细度 94
- l0 _3 b4 @- w7 J1 b8 `/ { 9.1.1 Denier system/旦数 94! M- E- Q/ @% m$ O- N6 x+ q( q
9.1.2 Yarn count system/纱线英制支数 94
" z' d$ M3 ~8 v8 W0 { 9.1.3 Tex system/线密度 95
& e5 z8 ?0 H, s* r0 c 9.1.4 Metric numbering system/公制支数 95
- `- D/ f V# m" k 9.1.5 Conversion in different systems/不同系统之间的换算 95$ R3 u& q1 y& l6 c' d* b
9.2 Ply yarn counts and singles equivalent/股线支数与单纱支数 95
9 U) L, p9 X0 o0 h0 r 9.3 Yarn twist/纱线捻度 96. \, V: s" R3 y, b }! z
9.4 Yarn hairiness/纱线毛羽 97
% r E( y0 K* z( [5 w 9.4.1 Hairiness test method/毛羽测试方法 98
" h' i' E2 O1 W! l6 |: |) c4 V 9.4.2 Factors affecting hairiness/影响毛羽的因素 98
5 S @# p: h8 Z. B+ F+ y 9.5 Yarn unevenness/纱线不匀 99
2 g+ p2 D; ?( E 9.5.1 Test of yarn unevenness/纱线不匀的测试 99
1 k4 e6 ?7 X) n 9.5.2 Reasons for yarn unevenness/纱线不匀的原因 100
; U, x) Y- \3 M& \$ s. \; N) J( G 9.6 Classification of yarn quality/纱线质量分析 1001 o& U# O$ I6 n3 q
Questions/思考题 100
/ b7 v5 z- ?/ Y: t# \- x4 bPart Ⅳ Textile Fabrics/织物 1022 t9 O) o. v" S8 J
Chapter 10 Woven Fabrics/机织物 102
% V/ \1 h9 H% C8 I6 p$ Z. u5 Y 10.1 Making woven fabrics/织制机织物 102, T9 T* O; e' S/ b8 c2 k
10.1.1 The loom/织机 102
! d$ f/ W8 P1 `' E B: O 10.1.2 Loom type/织机类型 104- {5 G- {* ?7 `0 o/ o3 x: Y, d
10.1.3 Loom motions/织机运动 104
( a$ c5 Z! S1 k: c, T$ V 10.1.4 Electronics in weaving/电子技术在织机中的应用 105' i0 U4 [# }% A: @7 ]+ {5 G% G
10.1.5 The selvage/布边 105
4 v2 v4 ~1 [6 c6 _# C, ]7 W" h+ K0 _ 10.2 Warp yarns and filling yarns/经纱和纬纱 105
: v" i; T8 _8 A0 ^ 10.2.1 Identification/鉴别 106
1 X/ @4 k; l" W. ^8 c8 {" G 10.3 Face and back/正面与反面 1061 b7 x% Q, p5 @( N3 @: W4 K3 |
10.3.1 Reasons for differenee/存在差异的原因 107
; N3 U) S+ J1 [2 b6 l9 k" R 10.3.2 Caution/应用的要点 107
) u) r! O$ y' w) b 10.4 Top and bottom/顶端和底端 107. o. T/ q! j4 O8 \+ D
10.4.1 Reasons for difference/存在差异的原因 1075 h6 Z* y8 Q7 E: G* @- U/ t% d4 j
10.5 Weave floats/组织浮线 108
0 y* Z U7 o8 p7 c6 x 10.6 Basic weaves/基本组织 108
/ D& a) ]. D! U( U+ c 10.6.1 Plain weave/平纹组织 108
+ t+ F* k: U$ p# R7 q 10.6.2 Twill weave/斜纹组织 109- U2 `; W; P+ D; o7 N. E
10.6.3 Satin weave/缎纹组织 1118 b' Q) T/ j1 {' B; z
10.7 Fabric performance and characteristics/织物性能和参数 112$ C& C9 V/ F# f6 m2 `& U
10.7.1 Fabric width/幅宽 112
7 |, x3 h3 m& n 10.7.2 Fabric weight/织物重量 112) \: S7 G! N! @& s9 W
10.7.3 Fabric thickness/织物厚度 113
k. `: v% Q/ G' Z0 @/ ?* ?9 L 10.7.4 Fabric density/织物密度 113( J6 k% g7 x0 u: G% Z
10.7.5 Fabric count/织物经纬密度 113
3 j) W7 d! }: E, V; v# R 10.7.6 Fabric defects/织物疵点 113
& Q7 r4 b7 M3 g* S! a* a Questions/思考题 1136 o. U& S* t( z' y9 G$ A% i
Chapter 11 Knitted Fabrics/针织物 1144 X. K4 q- M. ~* N1 T
11.1 Making of knitted fabric/针织物形成 114* b. ]5 P+ C3 z* D `4 b( j
11.1.1 The forming of knitted stitches/线圈的形成 114
1 h; k; Z; \& Y( d( }4 r 11.1.2 Types of knitted stitches/线圈的种类 116% I5 S7 ^# e) q/ h+ X3 E" E
11.2 Weft knits/纬编针织物 117
" l) y$ G$ s6 b 11.2.1 Jersey knit fabric/纬平针织物 117
/ E; X7 n- w. Z! t t 11.2.2 Rib knit fabric/罗纹针织物 1181 R, L3 ~1 ]# L# M! Q0 F
11.2.3 Purl knit fabric/双反面针织物 119- c0 E' g) f/ Y
11.2.4 Double knits/双面针织物 120
: y" ?; d* S3 O% f3 y8 b5 ~ 11.2.5 Full-fashioned knits/全成形针织物 120, i% B7 t2 B& S/ @. q; t
11.3 Warp knits/经编针织物 121
+ Y) z, E6 A$ n' j0 B 11.3.1 Tricot fabrics/特里科经编针织物 121- `# Z" K i$ s8 z' h+ W
11.3.2 Raschel fabrics/拉舍尔经编针织物 122
( O9 \, n( g" c9 t 11.4 Performance and characteristics/性能和参数 122
8 \& v, G3 H' [+ v. i Questions/思考题 123: ]7 V% y$ \5 u5 w
Chapter 12 Nonwoven Fabrics/非织造布 1249 {$ r {* K& o6 E# U) y. O/ t
12.1 Introduction/导论 124/ P0 g# F# W& w% {( c5 h5 h# g
12.2 Manufacturing methods/生产方法 125
/ U' P$ w" @- s 12.2.1 Dry laid system/干法成网 1250 Y0 J; v* I M$ ?3 T/ e
12.2.2 Wet laid system/湿法成网 1250 t. i: Q( p# d
12.2.3 Polymer laid system/聚合物挤压法 1253 ?0 w# N; {6 u* @
12.3 Various nonwovens/各种非织造布 125# _: E/ J! x& x9 d5 S0 s
12.3.1 Needle punched nonwovens/针刺法非织造布 1255 O j+ l7 i6 C0 A M, ?" A
12.3.2 Bonded web nonwovens/黏合法非织造布 126
/ Q, L- Q' Z! M9 y 12.3.3 Spunlaced nonwovens/射流喷网法非织造布 127
& F3 x' U% B0 h9 s% i 12.3.4 Spunbonded nonwovens/纺粘法非织造布 128$ U M7 X/ j1 z$ d# R3 q
12.3.5 Melt-blown nonwovens/熔喷法非织造布 1292 H# t& D+ R* ~. b) X
Questions/思考题 129( y5 b1 D" F( [, \
Part Ⅴ Textile Testing/纺织品测试 130% \$ G" j: x5 `$ m1 P2 r
Chapter 13 General Test Methods/常规测试方法 1300 C% \8 A- k2 v4 B# _
13.1 General fiber tests/纤维常规测试 1302 w( V! H7 F- V( Z; P* A) [0 F
13.1.1 Fiber identification/纤维鉴别 130
( Q4 s0 P4 N# k" x 13.1.2 Fiber length/纤维长度 134
P0 M/ ?' U d* T+ A 13.1.3 Fiber fineness or linear density/纤维细度或线密度 135
9 A' A" E6 k% g+ R3 ^1 a: m+ u 13.1.4 Cross-sectional shape/截面形状 135* \+ B. X6 b+ x7 C
13.1.5 Crimp/卷曲 135; w. \. }; J- i, z: \
13.1.6 Regain/回潮率 136
+ ^- V7 v1 z W& x3 Q( S 13.1.7 Mechanical properties/机械性能 136
# U+ t c+ T! I9 V* @6 }* z 13.1.8 Chemical characteristics/化学性能 136
1 `8 N* q/ U8 P 13.1.9 Surface characteristics/表面性能 136
- H& P& M& c v/ u4 |: k2 j 13.1.10 Density and specific gravity/密度和相对密度 1376 d) P# J* p1 Q# [
13.2 Special tests for natural fibers/天然纤维的测试 137, Z* o; D) Y' n: L! D0 q. i
13.2.1 Tests for cotton/棉纤维测试 137
; |0 ~: K; v1 }' k, I 13.2.2 Tests for wool/毛纤维测试 139
7 w, r* J% k W6 }3 B% g5 M 13.3 Testing of tensile properties/拉伸性能测试 140
" F' L6 D) w) V; i1 { 13.3.1 Description of tensile proprieties/拉伸性能的描述 141
; r8 r( a8 Z( Z; x" x 13.3.2 Fiber and yarn tensile testing/纤维和纱线拉伸性能的测试 146
/ _. y* f7 w: B% {+ Z6 N4 b 13.3.3 Fabric tensile testing/织物拉伸性能测试方法 147
7 Y/ c' p4 \) o; Y9 j5 l! v. T Questions/思考题 149
4 I+ t2 ^% R8 ~! Z Chapter 14 Fabric Abrasion and Pilling/织物磨损与起球 150( k8 _& Z" m9 @' K$ q8 @4 X
14.1 Types of abrasion/磨损的类型 150
6 b$ A9 l8 h; r* v" f; @ 14.1.1 Abrasion between fabrics/织物间的磨损 150( d# N$ L: n5 d+ y! s( J
14.1.2 Abrasion between fabric and a nontextile surface/织物与非纤维制品表面磨损 150
9 o( w, Z0 c- x! R7 t3 F# X 14.1.3 Abrasion within fabric/织物内部磨损 1517 j8 o3 }2 l3 q) G4 T8 q5 k
14.1.4 Abrasion by foreign materials within the fabric/与织物内部其他材料的磨损 1510 n% [& F i5 _5 H, r3 k. Y
14.2 Factors affecting fabric abrasion resistance/影响耐磨性能的因素 151
2 [5 c0 V g9 o7 Y- J! |1 P 14.2.1 Fabric properties/织物性能 151: {; ?3 K" \4 P+ ^3 |6 a
14.2.2 Other factors/其他因素 1531 W( s' y- P8 ]9 h( |! h: {
14.3 Abrasion testing/磨损测试 154
. g& o. ]' N/ f% c- M1 p/ T( N2 z 14.3.1 Visual comparison with an unabraded specimen/与未磨损样品视觉对比 154) W* `% ]+ p" m+ q' x% [
14.3.2 Number of cycles to produce a hole/产生磨损破洞需要的摩擦圈数 154
9 M1 v% l, a2 E: z7 W 14.3.3 Change in a physical property/物理性能的变化 154
/ f( j t% `. S( H- h& y 14.3.4 Microscopic examination/显微镜观测 155( h: G& K V0 z
14.4 Aesthetics of abrasion and wear/穿着和磨损对美感的影响 155" B; Z( r7 V; a/ H. ` I' _8 l
14.4.1 Color changes caused by abrasion/磨损引起的颜色变化 155- G+ `$ ]( N; p. V6 y
14.4.2 Pilling/起球 1564 i: X7 s* _' ~% ~7 v* w. M2 X; s
Questions/思考题 157
3 F5 A$ X5 @* S! @' q1 O Chapter 15 Fabric Hand and Drape/织物手感与悬垂 1585 x2 b* ^' y- D; J: [4 E& p4 V
15.1 Fabric hand/织物手感 158
8 S4 s- \5 ~2 z3 v9 x 15.2 Fabric drape/织物悬垂 159
4 n, U. m$ l1 i5 Y2 h! n5 g9 V 15.3 Measurement of hand and drape/手感与悬垂的评价 1612 q2 o. [, v2 v; O! k9 s
15.3.1 Subjective evaluation/主观评定法 161, e s* W% v/ m: r
15.3.2 Quantitative measurement/定量评定法 162
4 w1 r6 u# P) H" O* w 15.3.3 Kawabata evaluation system/KES评定法 163
Z% V" @+ `3 y Questions/思考题 163
9 E' E4 u5 Q- _5 S+ g Chapter 16 Fabric Colorfastness/织物染色牢度 164
* x2 r( R9 k& I( E. E* V 16.1 Evaluation of color and colorfastness/颜色和染色牢度评定方法 164
7 q6 Z, C2 h. p7 d 16.2 Colorfastness tests/染色牢度测试 164: F7 F8 d2 \/ m* l( D
16.2.1 Colorfastness to crocking/耐摩擦色牢度 1641 X( I, n8 q$ n' q! Q* H
16.2.2 Colorfastness to laundering and bleaching/耐洗涤和耐漂白色牢 165, j2 H) T& A; u( ?, _( Q( z6 X) h
16.2.3 Colorfastness to drycleaning/耐干洗色牢度 166
2 I ]" a5 [) x2 C+ x. D, E 16.2.4 Colorfastness to perspiration/耐汗渍色牢度 166
: ]$ O8 Y2 v1 E: C2 r! z' B 16.2.5 Colorfastness to water/耐水浸色牢度 166
9 x( E/ s8 F, E6 O# d9 U d( U 16.2.6 Colorfastness to light/耐光照色牢度 1672 Z. [/ F) ~1 c0 R
16.2.7 Colorfastness to atmospheric contaminants/耐空气污染色牢度 168% q3 X5 ]5 J" S" D6 C c( f
Questions/思考题 168: r$ @& u. d, t# | D; ]
Chapter 17 Fabric Flammability/织物可燃性 169, O# P0 n5 B& F+ D
17.1 Flammability standards/可燃性标准 169) o8 ~% I/ }# A! G
17.2 Properties affecting flammability/影响可燃性的因素 169
2 X$ w0 k( V- f8 q3 b+ }& ` 17.3 Flammability testing/可燃性测试 1710 s2 e: C1 y1 k4 l. q; P8 S
17.3.1 Forty-five degree angle test/45°燃烧测试法 1715 z! i" @6 w3 ?. y
17.3.2 Vertical flame tests/垂直燃烧测试法 172
5 { V# y J4 I8 [( i& ^0 g 17.3.3 Carpet testing/地毯测试 172
& {' k/ Q9 V. O, l8 h' B" m 17.3.4 Cigarette tests/卷烟点燃测试 172
2 n8 K, a4 ?) c3 K+ B0 d- i 17.3.5 Other standard flammability tests/其他可燃性测试 173
! ?' s( f& o. k# A6 s Questions/思考题 173
0 y# n( v, D4 c) _! Y8 v Chapter 18 Comfort of Textiles/纺织品舒适性 174
- k# R" v7 x) {* B# r 18.1 Physical phenomena affecting thermal comfort/影响热舒适性能的物理现象 174
( Z, B2 i1 u. N7 F& p0 R K 18.1.1 Heat transfer/热传递 174
* i! s* H( L, A& w1 \+ c 18.1.2 Moisture transfer/湿传递 175
! }) s O! j8 n! z" J3 Q S 18.1.3 Water resistance/抗水性 175& H5 D# Y3 Q2 G% u8 s1 D
18.1.4 Air transfer/透气性 176* x# a# l5 O8 x) N& C
18.1.5 Porosity and cover factor/多孔性和覆盖系数 176% \( t1 M2 T3 O c, i
18.1.6 Electrostatic propensity/静电 177
- U0 K. ?! d* F9 I7 }9 ` 18.2 Evaluations of textile properties related to comfort/与舒适性相关的纺织品性能评价 177
. J& _& O- o+ U6 M$ ]9 ] 18.2.1 Heat transfer/热传递 178
/ l7 y# G2 f! S! J6 i) i3 ? 18.2.2 Moisture properties/湿传递性能 179) H# ~$ m7 l/ `
18.2.3 Air permeability/透气性 179) V" \6 F6 X b* m. \/ S$ R
18.2.4 Porosity/孔隙率 180/ z M! {2 G' O3 O" a2 R
18.2.5 Electrostatic tests/静电测试 180+ I+ P( Q, b; D9 W$ C: z
Questions/思考题 180
7 h3 Z2 e- G" f( n0 c$ @+ r! Z' XAppendix/附录 181' u* K) W& N9 W5 { y. w
AATCC:AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS/美国纺织化学家与染色家协会 181
. c3 c) U* _- \0 ~ ASTM:AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR TESTING AND MATERIALS/美国材料试验学会 184
7 O) W A8 Z& Y/ G% X. {Vocabulary/词汇表 189( V1 u& B" R' V7 I. k" A! d
References/参考文献 197! \+ z/ a- H3 C0 q! j/ P
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