
纺织材料学(双语教材),刘妍,熊磊,PDF。普通高等教育“十一五”国家级规划教材(本科),纺织工程专业双语教材,电子目录,14M。1 y& O( y4 h+ E4 Z3 W
8 n% h' A, c" a2 z- X# j! [
内容提要5 n# R$ G6 T; s- p1 r9 `
本书讨论了纤维、纱线与织物(包括机织物、针织物及非织造布)的结构、机械性能、物理性能及使用性能。涉及的纤维势括天然纤维(如棉、毛、麻、丝等)、传统化学纤维及新型化学纤维。本书同时介绍了纤维、纱线和织物的各种标准测试方法(包括国际上常用的ASTM, AATCC及GB等方法),并讨论了与各种测试方法有关的测试原理及对测试结果的影响因素。
& q. j+ N& W3 s本书可供高等纺织院校纺织、服装相关专业的本科生及研究生作为《纺织材料学》的双语教材或专业英语教材,也可供其他专业师生、纺织贸易专业人员和科研及生产单位的技术人员参考。
$ A2 j: L3 O2 [9 o* g. Z4 `( Q& Y目录
2 @% e" m/ Q, {9 P- B) C# {0 l( DPart Ⅰ An Introduction to Textiles/纺织入门 18) w1 [) v' B! d) Y" S( j u
Chapter 1 Introduction/介绍 185 X% m4 F, a( W: h
1.1 ASTM Standard Terminology Relating to Textiles/ASTM纺织标准术语 18
' S! a) v0 g& D( ?, z 1.2 Fiber history/纤维历史 26 ?$ ]8 V5 N0 n8 W' f
1.2.1 Natural fibers/天然纤维 262 Q& V3 ^8 {- u( [0 S8 H) v N, K
1.2.2 Man-made fibers/化学纤维 279 c$ F& U9 `% } C
Questions/思考题 30( V$ o2 p4 J' R; p" ^$ ]& F: l# ?
Part Ⅱ Textile Fibers/纺织纤维 32
% L4 G1 C6 ?; G4 z! T% d" k0 \) e Chapter 2 Natural Cellulosic Fibers/天然纤维素纤维 323 T! ~3 b, B( }, q1 M
2.1 Cotton/棉 33
6 v, C7 D% o8 Y2 S 2.1.1 Nature of cotton/棉花的种类 33" \- `+ D9 n8 c
2.1.2 Classification/分类 34
. a- M# I6 v$ N 2.1.3 Growth and structure of cotton/棉纤维的生长与结构 34
8 b1 O" J- C! R5 r8 w6 @/ b7 |, F 2.1.4 Maturity/成熟度 36) o( f9 @, k9 e. y' N" Z
2.1.5 Cotton properties/棉纤维的性能 38
' ?" o+ \* p) _, y0 U8 [ 2.1.6 Cotton classification/棉花分级 39- P3 B& S8 G4 @ |1 \! p
2.2 Bast fibers/韧皮纤维 40
0 h7 h9 K ^# A' q! P 2.2.1 Flax (linen)/亚麻,亚麻织物 41
$ T, j" M; N5 ]9 i+ ?: G: R 2.2.2 Ramie/苎麻 43* m4 {6 t/ V* [7 @$ I, j. G
2.2.3 Hemp/汉麻 44+ h+ F' f& s, R# k" h
2.2.4 Jute/黄麻 44
2 u% U |5 Y! }% i4 ^) ` Questions/思考题 45( l4 q( V( P: r+ e% {
Chapter 3 Natural Protein Fibers/天然蛋白质纤维 46
' L d; K. m+ [0 D- ^1 ~1 J1 O3 s+ W 3.1 Wool/绵羊毛 46. y* T' _8 x9 R
3.1.1 Wool production and history/羊毛生产和历史 46
, S! y/ l' _/ j( _5 T ]5 O- q 3.1.2 Wool grading/羊毛分级 47
# l a, d9 U7 S8 x% {' b/ B 3.1.3 Wool structure/羊毛结构 47) u) o( U& O" V, s
3.1.4 Wool properties/羊毛性能 48
/ U( c$ o' h M( Q' B* M! S 3.2 Specialty animal fibers/特种动物毛 51 i( H+ R) e: a3 Z. m3 a
3.3 Silk/丝 52# C, l; l6 M& L8 ~* O
Questions/思考题 54) S& w, i* e* |6 V
Chapter 4 Man-made Fibers/化学纤维 55, U: d4 x& @! q3 _( Q5 @* O
4.1 Manufacturing processing of fiber/纤维生产工艺 55+ q9 F n7 V C- A% L* `0 q- o
4.1.1 Wet spinning/湿法纺丝 569 @8 t2 Q ~) m# d+ o+ \
4.1.2 Dry spinning/干法纺丝 567 ?! c) G& w) ~$ l( |
4.1.3 Melt spinning/熔体法纺丝 56) I* K- I3 w: F% x1 B" a- W: A7 B
4.1.4 Gel spinning/凝胶纺丝 57
3 v& `. G/ i, H& ?/ A# G, C. N 4.2 Regenerated fibers/再生纤维 57
4 ?$ S/ L- V- p! a! X) B, g9 n3 F 4.2.1 Acetate/醋酯纤维 57
5 I5 n9 q! `: c% L) E) C 4.2.2 Triacetate/三醋酯纤维 593 ]) V* C$ [- ~2 l g
4.2.3 Viscose fibers/粘胶纤维 59
" @; b& ^5 N/ R, x9 @5 s1 V! u. s 4.3 Synthetic fibers/合成纤维 60
' e7 z: r; w, s# Z 4.3.1 Acrylic/腈纶 60
/ P* o1 d P ~. i 4.3.2 Modacrylic/改性腈纶 61( r5 r% K' _0 u( {) _
4.3.3 Nylon/锦纶 61- k6 i8 H3 Y# e1 E5 v
4.3.4 Polyester/涤纶 62; C1 Z ]6 `( p S# l {
4.3.5 PBI/聚苯并咪唑纤维 631 i! \) L: z7 P7 X* o
4.3.6 Vinal/聚乙烯醇纤维 635 H8 r- _. U% m7 G2 t4 P
4.3.7 Olefin/聚烯烃纤维 63
! r& q5 V; w% O% c" \. m 4.3.8 Aramid/芳纶 64* d7 \3 H% ?! `1 U( A7 P6 M) v
4.3.9 Lycra/莱卡 64- r$ m1 K* k8 J5 g4 B7 i
4.4 Other man-made fibers/其他化学纤维 66, e- ~: I0 r& j
4.4.1 Glass/玻璃纤维 66
4 j" j' a- j+ D- L# k 4.4.2 Metallic/金属纤维 67& s' {7 B9 z7 {* V# U' [
Questions/思考题 67
! c8 O/ d0 V6 X& ~: ? Chapter 5 New Fibers/新型纤维 68
' M9 l9 w0 Q( Z" ] 5.1 Carbon fibers/碳纤维 68& a& u( B' Y1 h4 e. N7 a) a
5.2 Fluorocarbon/氟碳纤维 68
) E& W4 H- C/ n7 W* z# ~1 f( v 5.3 Lyocell fibers(Tencel)/莱塞尔纤维 68
$ C) [* @8 H, n8 w! F$ V; T% Z 5.4 High-wet-modulus fibers/高湿模量纤维 69& I3 F* {: X! w; V4 y
5.4.1 Modal fibers/莫代尔纤维 69, E8 b' B" e- S1 A) {( M1 D
5.4.2 Richcel/丽赛纤维 70
) h3 a. _# J5 M" Z1 ~5 Z8 l 5.5 Soybean protein composite fibers/大豆蛋白复合纤维 70
1 c" E9 K6 ~% v3 l+ v1 P; D 5.6 PLA fiber/聚左旋乳酸纤维 71
! a) t! k/ _5 M$ k3 E' a 5.7 Heterogenous fibers/复合纤维 71
5 a" ^6 X8 X( ?% C 5.7.1 Bicomponent or multicomponent/双组分或多组分 72
/ |- F9 B/ | M& B 5.7.2 Biconstituent or multiconstituent/双成分或多成分 73
) O$ t- u* m# P* j* l+ x 5.7.3 Matrix or matrix-fibril/基质型纤维 73& }" d5 Z# c q
5.8 Differential fibers/差别化纤维 74
7 Y& X2 L/ x Q0 j% t9 H 5.9 Functional fibers/功能性纤维 744 V4 e3 R' K. l1 R, x3 i
5.10 High performance fibers/高性能纤维 74: s/ y j3 z( O; y
Questions/思考题 74
0 H2 ]' I r4 N' C* Z Chapter 6 The Property of Absorbing Moisture/吸湿性 75
6 A; j9 A* |! \7 s* S. B% \6 l# r 6.1 Orientation and crystallization/取向与结晶 751 {$ k1 f: y8 @" M$ F) ?
6.2 Moisture sorption/吸湿性 755 r, U# @, u! z( @/ H+ R
6.2.1 Regain and moisture content/回潮率与含水率 75
# R0 h! b' o) s s' \ 6.2.2 Relation between regain and relative humidity/回潮率与相对湿度的关系 75
9 A7 }( p( E& h4 ] 6.2.3 Comparison of various materials/不同材料吸湿性的对比 76
; P5 E; k; {) R+ N P* x- G 6.2.4 Theories of moisture sorption/吸湿理论 783 o3 G8 k. `/ y( e* s
Questions/思考题 80
8 s' j2 h8 \" {4 L8 X7 ?8 \# s5 v Chapter 7 Other Physical Properties of Textile Fibers/纤维的其他物理性能 81
$ N1 _% L' i# }: V8 i+ N3 Q' G 7.1 Electronic properties/电学性能 81' F4 X/ `* [- ?3 c- M
7.1.1 Definitions/定义 81
/ h2 J2 c3 t8 a5 a" z 7.2 Optical properties/光学性能 82
% k, g9 s- C; A! a 7.3 Thermal properties/热学性能 83
7 u; m4 E7 y+ H: o 7.3.1 Thermal parameters/热力学参数 83 C) t$ C/ \" Y) |7 r) f; Y' n% G
7.3.2 A comparison of temperature effects/温度效应比较 835 B; E0 F) P5 E: U# ^& Q5 I* X; t
Questions/思考题 83 Y* e$ n& C9 H: V1 {) S* T8 \' ~7 @
Part Ⅲ Textile Yarns/纺织纱线 84
7 @1 i: R8 i+ ~0 e9 C$ Q2 q Chapter 8 Yarn Processing and Construction/纱线制造与结构 841 a4 w: o/ b! r) E \. Z/ Q& A% I, `) Z
8.1 Spun yarns/短纤纱 85" d7 X% y! V+ a; d
8.2 Filament yarns/长丝纱 85
& U! v- i& W# r( z# h 8.3 Methods of yarn processing/纺纱方法 85
9 z, k% H) n! D+ e" @: p" L4 }1 p 8.3.1 Ring-spinning/环锭纺 86
. e. Q# F; Z6 H 8.3.2 New methods of yarn processing/新型纺纱方法 868 b: Y* B1 V t# M1 _6 |' A
8.4 Single and ply yarns/单纱和股线 89% q( D% t3 M( d0 W3 U/ h* J
8.5 Special types of yarn/特种纱线 90
3 v6 D u4 d" k8 e8 l4 ], U 8.5.1 Fancy yarns/花式纱 90
, V* v& X1 p* F# N7 H3 _( l* p 8.5.2 Stretch yarns/弹力纱 91
, w, E9 e' V* A! y E% M4 o 8.5.3 Textured yarns 变形纱线 91
( `% H/ S! N' q6 I0 P- Q5 z5 T2 [ 8.6 Blends and mixtures yarns/纱线混纺与混用 92
Q. Z" M& _3 j2 }: O. z( V Questions/思考题 93, `' I& S# a' J
Chapter 9 Yarn Properties/纱线性能 947 W: _" l. U$ V
9.1 Yarn number/纱线细度 94
4 u% O2 b$ ? T! _ 9.1.1 Denier system/旦数 94
$ m8 b% D; g% c. ^* \ 9.1.2 Yarn count system/纱线英制支数 94
% M7 P" F4 j1 V& P; w8 n! l P 9.1.3 Tex system/线密度 95* f- t1 U- t& L$ g7 P
9.1.4 Metric numbering system/公制支数 95# L5 o$ e5 C+ S4 r. w
9.1.5 Conversion in different systems/不同系统之间的换算 95
6 o' v* V- c1 O3 ` 9.2 Ply yarn counts and singles equivalent/股线支数与单纱支数 95
6 p' S$ t' J) |, u8 k# M7 p& O9 k, k 9.3 Yarn twist/纱线捻度 96
/ u% F% {0 `, W 9.4 Yarn hairiness/纱线毛羽 974 k9 G$ k! f$ r6 c9 W
9.4.1 Hairiness test method/毛羽测试方法 98* ?" f, I! v7 B8 I) S1 U2 s6 j* s
9.4.2 Factors affecting hairiness/影响毛羽的因素 98
4 Q3 W6 h0 e3 _! c- ] 9.5 Yarn unevenness/纱线不匀 99
4 i0 I0 o* O- B' U6 ] 9.5.1 Test of yarn unevenness/纱线不匀的测试 99
" h1 p t/ ^( n: m 9.5.2 Reasons for yarn unevenness/纱线不匀的原因 100* f5 d; {& p$ g* N
9.6 Classification of yarn quality/纱线质量分析 100
6 m4 a a3 I, {& a Questions/思考题 100* o& _( c1 L+ D7 S4 X2 Z
Part Ⅳ Textile Fabrics/织物 102" W$ o, l: U% V; k
Chapter 10 Woven Fabrics/机织物 102& s+ ^" k4 @/ Q: U
10.1 Making woven fabrics/织制机织物 102
% c; a2 F Z# D9 k 10.1.1 The loom/织机 102- c* F8 s$ B' l! {
10.1.2 Loom type/织机类型 104! E3 K# V8 i' o! N: ]( T
10.1.3 Loom motions/织机运动 104- C; A. j) N( z' {8 t
10.1.4 Electronics in weaving/电子技术在织机中的应用 105
7 h% |# B+ n( Z# ? 10.1.5 The selvage/布边 1058 @' p" E* b5 u: w& _
10.2 Warp yarns and filling yarns/经纱和纬纱 1056 U+ b3 x' X9 h J3 l
10.2.1 Identification/鉴别 106 f# \! T( G" E3 R- c" z7 g6 q% V
10.3 Face and back/正面与反面 106# k* s5 I6 W: w$ Z' N( v. j$ ^
10.3.1 Reasons for differenee/存在差异的原因 107* r1 N( Q# i. w2 A# O# q, L/ T9 ], X4 m1 m
10.3.2 Caution/应用的要点 1075 `. k( N2 |: }5 v8 v* i. x
10.4 Top and bottom/顶端和底端 107
; W6 W8 q# D, }2 h 10.4.1 Reasons for difference/存在差异的原因 107. P, S* l' `. `! d! v k' O: i
10.5 Weave floats/组织浮线 108
% T# [8 a. [' L0 U 10.6 Basic weaves/基本组织 108 Q) f& N3 e: D
10.6.1 Plain weave/平纹组织 1089 v' W# {. h. X+ @' E; t
10.6.2 Twill weave/斜纹组织 109
8 |/ q9 A* w1 ^; y, L3 i% _2 O 10.6.3 Satin weave/缎纹组织 111& u1 z& Y) |0 b' `3 [8 o
10.7 Fabric performance and characteristics/织物性能和参数 112
0 ^5 u% q1 @; q2 S4 N 10.7.1 Fabric width/幅宽 112
2 b% ~. r+ g ]- W0 [ 10.7.2 Fabric weight/织物重量 112) d* u* Q+ t7 Y; D5 g4 S% Q, T8 |
10.7.3 Fabric thickness/织物厚度 113: G2 g! d) Q" V* S
10.7.4 Fabric density/织物密度 1138 _ s" S. w, B1 s; e; l& N
10.7.5 Fabric count/织物经纬密度 1138 t* B: y J: M
10.7.6 Fabric defects/织物疵点 113* y4 I9 |1 D5 `0 x8 J
Questions/思考题 113
! e5 v* V) f+ E5 F+ }/ m/ Z# k Chapter 11 Knitted Fabrics/针织物 114& ^$ U' ` R& h
11.1 Making of knitted fabric/针织物形成 114. F/ M _8 W8 l) _# h0 k" _: J
11.1.1 The forming of knitted stitches/线圈的形成 114
( A0 i5 g$ b, n 11.1.2 Types of knitted stitches/线圈的种类 116. \4 A& H. D V* v8 z H
11.2 Weft knits/纬编针织物 117, U% [2 p8 n4 C! Z+ _* z
11.2.1 Jersey knit fabric/纬平针织物 117
+ [/ G R( g+ ~ \: | 11.2.2 Rib knit fabric/罗纹针织物 118. A4 n6 h( F: f8 ~$ M( n8 P7 u
11.2.3 Purl knit fabric/双反面针织物 1195 u3 Y" C% ~ H5 ~
11.2.4 Double knits/双面针织物 120
7 s) H) V9 ~( ], L2 N5 ^; r4 ~ 11.2.5 Full-fashioned knits/全成形针织物 120
, }. D6 v7 F: @) c3 b 11.3 Warp knits/经编针织物 121
& ?" K/ @# }0 C0 c; f 11.3.1 Tricot fabrics/特里科经编针织物 121' [* E" s; j/ G2 p2 _- W/ U/ ~+ B/ b
11.3.2 Raschel fabrics/拉舍尔经编针织物 1223 S4 | E- ~4 F# d1 B
11.4 Performance and characteristics/性能和参数 122
+ j! P8 ]0 h+ `+ }9 M. o Questions/思考题 123# K6 ~: m9 K# l1 `; O
Chapter 12 Nonwoven Fabrics/非织造布 124' O$ O+ b$ E- U. S' q
12.1 Introduction/导论 124
8 [4 j g# \7 ^! D B5 Y 12.2 Manufacturing methods/生产方法 125
- {2 ?* H# v3 `8 i( ~ 12.2.1 Dry laid system/干法成网 125
2 p5 G" l* f5 G _ p' ^, S 12.2.2 Wet laid system/湿法成网 125/ w" v8 y6 |2 w! m
12.2.3 Polymer laid system/聚合物挤压法 125
: W p6 n& p& `) ~ 12.3 Various nonwovens/各种非织造布 125% {4 _+ f o; Q. K( ?2 R& q
12.3.1 Needle punched nonwovens/针刺法非织造布 125
! t3 O. E) C8 i5 p 12.3.2 Bonded web nonwovens/黏合法非织造布 1267 z I. l5 S' B5 O
12.3.3 Spunlaced nonwovens/射流喷网法非织造布 127# O t5 \+ ]! y+ a
12.3.4 Spunbonded nonwovens/纺粘法非织造布 128
- O) k% U5 x- ~; J1 E4 Z 12.3.5 Melt-blown nonwovens/熔喷法非织造布 1294 H. S8 h8 _, R: C' q9 W1 W" y
Questions/思考题 129
) B% I+ L! C6 F$ `" ~Part Ⅴ Textile Testing/纺织品测试 130
& e6 ?! k; p7 }- Y& q Chapter 13 General Test Methods/常规测试方法 130
/ @5 x, D. r5 z 13.1 General fiber tests/纤维常规测试 130; P) I# S* C0 P) i# h5 r
13.1.1 Fiber identification/纤维鉴别 130
% T% J- {4 i% O4 e1 R u 13.1.2 Fiber length/纤维长度 134
. W P8 x* @8 |1 R9 ] 13.1.3 Fiber fineness or linear density/纤维细度或线密度 135
) l q) E, H# I' G 13.1.4 Cross-sectional shape/截面形状 135
Q. W4 o' A0 B# U 13.1.5 Crimp/卷曲 135
+ i# x P8 l7 P3 A& I 13.1.6 Regain/回潮率 136
6 U o3 J; o) | 13.1.7 Mechanical properties/机械性能 136% P) A' G5 K, C! }8 R; w0 A
13.1.8 Chemical characteristics/化学性能 136
. ^, O" c# P6 Q* h) w0 f 13.1.9 Surface characteristics/表面性能 136
( z: {3 Z5 ?7 G( k- b 13.1.10 Density and specific gravity/密度和相对密度 137
, i( r$ Y7 G3 Z4 {; A7 `- d 13.2 Special tests for natural fibers/天然纤维的测试 1379 P2 {0 Y9 [$ T( E z$ d+ n
13.2.1 Tests for cotton/棉纤维测试 137
0 e7 L* w/ U& K4 s 13.2.2 Tests for wool/毛纤维测试 139! ~, T* G1 V+ j7 L1 N! q9 r% s" k
13.3 Testing of tensile properties/拉伸性能测试 140& B/ L! g) T+ z! _, V2 Q
13.3.1 Description of tensile proprieties/拉伸性能的描述 141
# Z, n4 o3 t! E# M/ S P 13.3.2 Fiber and yarn tensile testing/纤维和纱线拉伸性能的测试 146 u' @2 m8 C7 g9 Z% J
13.3.3 Fabric tensile testing/织物拉伸性能测试方法 1477 a7 O3 X$ Z U) [/ t
Questions/思考题 149
" ^! S' g3 @/ ^/ }1 L0 c* `9 v1 t4 Q Chapter 14 Fabric Abrasion and Pilling/织物磨损与起球 150* x% F9 g- p: r, S
14.1 Types of abrasion/磨损的类型 150
, l3 N: d& {* x$ W 14.1.1 Abrasion between fabrics/织物间的磨损 150% C* o" k! b# C
14.1.2 Abrasion between fabric and a nontextile surface/织物与非纤维制品表面磨损 150
/ B. y; B$ I# V* K 14.1.3 Abrasion within fabric/织物内部磨损 151( s% o7 N1 s9 j+ M0 b8 _$ ~
14.1.4 Abrasion by foreign materials within the fabric/与织物内部其他材料的磨损 151
2 o' z* J/ D5 T 14.2 Factors affecting fabric abrasion resistance/影响耐磨性能的因素 151
% ~1 z" ?" E5 J1 H P7 p4 ^, K( ] 14.2.1 Fabric properties/织物性能 151
: L6 p. @/ H( }/ @ 14.2.2 Other factors/其他因素 153
1 v$ C7 S- C! X4 j 14.3 Abrasion testing/磨损测试 154& u3 w* k7 e Q: H5 F+ |' Z# I, l. f
14.3.1 Visual comparison with an unabraded specimen/与未磨损样品视觉对比 1548 e) n# `4 v; K
14.3.2 Number of cycles to produce a hole/产生磨损破洞需要的摩擦圈数 154: j5 D; A+ f* E8 v# I
14.3.3 Change in a physical property/物理性能的变化 154
: A% R! H3 q- t5 q& ?4 O X 14.3.4 Microscopic examination/显微镜观测 1556 ?5 W' u; l. s' t8 c
14.4 Aesthetics of abrasion and wear/穿着和磨损对美感的影响 155
9 F7 p) \# U: Y! i1 \ 14.4.1 Color changes caused by abrasion/磨损引起的颜色变化 155* p4 B1 I" y8 X2 N4 F" f( C6 J
14.4.2 Pilling/起球 156* @7 d) ]4 T; K- w; o
Questions/思考题 1574 h+ A; ]4 }0 ^; z" A2 U) x
Chapter 15 Fabric Hand and Drape/织物手感与悬垂 158
/ t; W+ C' U ^& H# Y$ H 15.1 Fabric hand/织物手感 158
1 T) L( D! j/ _- L4 X3 D. | Q 15.2 Fabric drape/织物悬垂 159. Q/ e. t' |5 V5 f& {; P1 A! N
15.3 Measurement of hand and drape/手感与悬垂的评价 161, {3 s/ v5 ^5 [8 n7 }) l
15.3.1 Subjective evaluation/主观评定法 1617 {" Y% A, V+ U: r( ^
15.3.2 Quantitative measurement/定量评定法 162/ ?. x$ J* F- L/ S# o, B
15.3.3 Kawabata evaluation system/KES评定法 163# K, R; Y+ ?0 p2 P* M
Questions/思考题 163
! i! c' ]' }; p) d, T } Chapter 16 Fabric Colorfastness/织物染色牢度 164
1 i' E6 {$ m9 v+ ?7 o2 E+ l 16.1 Evaluation of color and colorfastness/颜色和染色牢度评定方法 164
1 N5 E) ~; W/ x1 m+ m 16.2 Colorfastness tests/染色牢度测试 164
! z" Y; Z8 E+ l8 b 16.2.1 Colorfastness to crocking/耐摩擦色牢度 164
' o/ ^2 u5 ]. r7 | 16.2.2 Colorfastness to laundering and bleaching/耐洗涤和耐漂白色牢 165- I4 z% | r5 f( X* v- p
16.2.3 Colorfastness to drycleaning/耐干洗色牢度 166
& e0 ~9 D# h. L 16.2.4 Colorfastness to perspiration/耐汗渍色牢度 166
9 E( w3 w) X# ?8 j4 D8 z 16.2.5 Colorfastness to water/耐水浸色牢度 166
/ k: f. _! S$ C8 z. t* d, i8 l/ r 16.2.6 Colorfastness to light/耐光照色牢度 167
' j# |9 J# Q: w9 r3 \8 j 16.2.7 Colorfastness to atmospheric contaminants/耐空气污染色牢度 168: `% a. E0 Z. k b
Questions/思考题 1688 l% t( y3 J0 {7 M( [: w" g
Chapter 17 Fabric Flammability/织物可燃性 1690 k5 A# k; l4 W- B
17.1 Flammability standards/可燃性标准 169
; L- b0 ^5 l$ X* I& }& |% G1 ] 17.2 Properties affecting flammability/影响可燃性的因素 169
& Y5 {+ R, v6 K0 ]( {7 N 17.3 Flammability testing/可燃性测试 171) `0 H" t1 k. W
17.3.1 Forty-five degree angle test/45°燃烧测试法 171
2 |! C8 W8 I; L1 K p1 f 17.3.2 Vertical flame tests/垂直燃烧测试法 172
! e, ]1 t r# p3 v( i6 U& D8 Z 17.3.3 Carpet testing/地毯测试 172
6 n5 o$ x0 T7 {# v1 a 17.3.4 Cigarette tests/卷烟点燃测试 172" [$ Y; U6 J( ~. X
17.3.5 Other standard flammability tests/其他可燃性测试 173
~& {$ l6 w: E- h/ G Questions/思考题 173
$ g- H+ l t% \' j/ H Chapter 18 Comfort of Textiles/纺织品舒适性 174
+ O' T ?# ?( @, o, L. g 18.1 Physical phenomena affecting thermal comfort/影响热舒适性能的物理现象 174
7 [6 W* L1 A/ v2 G* [" _* U* }4 U 18.1.1 Heat transfer/热传递 174, e' l, Q: W6 v0 H
18.1.2 Moisture transfer/湿传递 1755 Y, A5 h& _" F( u: {
18.1.3 Water resistance/抗水性 175# y# v7 _* ]' f6 }" z7 E- \
18.1.4 Air transfer/透气性 176
) i% {3 A! t$ @+ N( P2 r8 { 18.1.5 Porosity and cover factor/多孔性和覆盖系数 176, z+ M6 E3 x2 v% s: J- g' s
18.1.6 Electrostatic propensity/静电 177
1 a1 { K9 C3 w/ } 18.2 Evaluations of textile properties related to comfort/与舒适性相关的纺织品性能评价 177
% o% b" J/ _: O 18.2.1 Heat transfer/热传递 178
# G2 J8 |) w5 {! m# G0 w 18.2.2 Moisture properties/湿传递性能 179
+ T3 ~( O. z& G& R h- n7 J 18.2.3 Air permeability/透气性 179% t) x+ L* [5 L5 \
18.2.4 Porosity/孔隙率 180- |5 U( Q# a, i6 y7 ]) n+ b
18.2.5 Electrostatic tests/静电测试 180
; d3 ]1 L* {. e# u4 f Questions/思考题 180
/ J4 O( }% N" e6 sAppendix/附录 181- j: {4 R2 `' w) z z, W+ ^
AATCC:AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS/美国纺织化学家与染色家协会 181* V# e- r% p$ Q. y; q& N% D9 o
ASTM:AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR TESTING AND MATERIALS/美国材料试验学会 184
/ d* K7 H+ ?( J- v! ?Vocabulary/词汇表 189& a) x! R7 }- y/ D, H$ y' a
References/参考文献 1972 P4 |, J) G! m( z+ r% s7 c
|
|