纺织材料学（双语教材），刘妍，熊磊，PDF

发表于 2016-1-18 22:48:37

纺织材料学（双语教材），刘妍，熊磊，PDF。普通高等教育“十一五”国家级规划教材(本科)，纺织工程专业双语教材，电子目录，14M。

内容提要
本书讨论了纤维、纱线与织物(包括机织物、针织物及非织造布)的结构、机械性能、物理性能及使用性能。涉及的纤维势括天然纤维(如棉、毛、麻、丝等)、传统化学纤维及新型化学纤维。本书同时介绍了纤维、纱线和织物的各种标准测试方法(包括国际上常用的ASTM, AATCC及GB等方法)，并讨论了与各种测试方法有关的测试原理及对测试结果的影响因素。
本书可供高等纺织院校纺织、服装相关专业的本科生及研究生作为《纺织材料学》的双语教材或专业英语教材，也可供其他专业师生、纺织贸易专业人员和科研及生产单位的技术人员参考。

目录( {$ ]  `3 _# h( N0 ?  B1 X. z
Part Ⅰ An Introduction to Textiles/纺织入门 18
Chapter 1 Introduction/介绍 18
  1.1 ASTM Standard Terminology Relating to Textiles/ASTM纺织标准术语 18
  1.2 Fiber history/纤维历史 26
1.2.1 Natural fibers/天然纤维 26
1.2.2 Man-made fibers/化学纤维 27
Questions/思考题 30
Part Ⅱ Textile Fibers/纺织纤维 32
Chapter 2 Natural Cellulosic Fibers/天然纤维素纤维 32
  2.1 Cotton/棉 33
2.1.1 Nature of cotton/棉花的种类 33
2.1.2 Classification/分类 34
2.1.3 Growth and structure of cotton/棉纤维的生长与结构 34
2.1.4 Maturity/成熟度 36
2.1.5 Cotton properties/棉纤维的性能 38
2.1.6 Cotton classification/棉花分级 39
  2.2 Bast fibers/韧皮纤维 40
2.2.1 Flax (linen)/亚麻,亚麻织物 41
2.2.2 Ramie/苎麻 43
2.2.3 Hemp/汉麻 44
2.2.4 Jute/黄麻 44
  Questions/思考题 45
Chapter 3 Natural Protein Fibers/天然蛋白质纤维 46
  3.1 Wool/绵羊毛 46
3.1.1 Wool production and history/羊毛生产和历史 46
3.1.2 Wool grading/羊毛分级 47
3.1.3 Wool structure/羊毛结构 47
3.1.4 Wool properties/羊毛性能 48
  3.2 Specialty animal fibers/特种动物毛 51
3.3 Silk/丝 52
  Questions/思考题 54
Chapter 4 Man-made Fibers/化学纤维 55
  4.1 Manufacturing processing of fiber/纤维生产工艺 55
4.1.1 Wet spinning/湿法纺丝 56
4.1.2 Dry spinning/干法纺丝 56
4.1.3 Melt spinning/熔体法纺丝 56
4.1.4 Gel spinning/凝胶纺丝 57
  4.2 Regenerated fibers/再生纤维 57
4.2.1 Acetate/醋酯纤维 57
4.2.2 Triacetate/三醋酯纤维 59
4.2.3 Viscose fibers/粘胶纤维 59
  4.3 Synthetic fibers/合成纤维 60
4.3.1 Acrylic/腈纶 60
4.3.2 Modacrylic/改性腈纶 61
4.3.3 Nylon/锦纶 61
4.3.4 Polyester/涤纶 62
4.3.5 PBI/聚苯并咪唑纤维 63
4.3.6 Vinal/聚乙烯醇纤维 63
4.3.7 Olefin/聚烯烃纤维 63
4.3.8 Aramid/芳纶 64
4.3.9 Lycra/莱卡 64
  4.4 Other man-made fibers/其他化学纤维 66
4.4.1 Glass/玻璃纤维 66
4.4.2 Metallic/金属纤维 67
  Questions/思考题 67
Chapter 5 New Fibers/新型纤维 68
  5.1 Carbon fibers/碳纤维 68
  5.2 Fluorocarbon/氟碳纤维 68
  5.3 Lyocell fibers(Tencel)/莱塞尔纤维 68
  5.4 High-wet-modulus fibers/高湿模量纤维 69
5.4.1 Modal fibers/莫代尔纤维 69
5.4.2 Richcel/丽赛纤维 70
  5.5 Soybean protein composite fibers/大豆蛋白复合纤维 70
  5.6 PLA fiber/聚左旋乳酸纤维 71
  5.7 Heterogenous fibers/复合纤维 71
5.7.1 Bicomponent or multicomponent/双组分或多组分 72
5.7.2 Biconstituent or multiconstituent/双成分或多成分 73
5.7.3 Matrix or matrix-fibril/基质型纤维 73
  5.8 Differential fibers/差别化纤维 74
  5.9 Functional fibers/功能性纤维 74
  5.10 High performance fibers/高性能纤维 74
  Questions/思考题 74
Chapter 6 The Property of Absorbing Moisture/吸湿性 75
  6.1 Orientation and crystallization/取向与结晶 75
  6.2 Moisture sorption/吸湿性 75
6.2.1 Regain and moisture content/回潮率与含水率 75
6.2.2 Relation between regain and relative humidity/回潮率与相对湿度的关系 75
6.2.3 Comparison of various materials/不同材料吸湿性的对比 76
6.2.4 Theories of moisture sorption/吸湿理论 78
  Questions/思考题 80
Chapter 7 Other Physical Properties of Textile Fibers/纤维的其他物理性能 81
  7.1 Electronic properties/电学性能 81
7.1.1 Definitions/定义 81
  7.2 Optical properties/光学性能 82
  7.3 Thermal properties/热学性能 83
7.3.1 Thermal parameters/热力学参数 83
7.3.2 A comparison of temperature effects/温度效应比较 83
  Questions/思考题 83
Part Ⅲ Textile Yarns/纺织纱线 840 r1 o" [8 H/ N( z3 N* H
Chapter 8 Yarn Processing and Construction/纱线制造与结构 84
  8.1 Spun yarns/短纤纱 85
  8.2 Filament yarns/长丝纱 85
  8.3 Methods of yarn processing/纺纱方法 85
8.3.1 Ring-spinning/环锭纺 86
8.3.2 New methods of yarn processing/新型纺纱方法 86
  8.4 Single and ply yarns/单纱和股线 89
  8.5 Special types of yarn/特种纱线 90
8.5.1 Fancy yarns/花式纱 90
8.5.2 Stretch yarns/弹力纱 91
8.5.3 Textured yarns 变形纱线 91
  8.6 Blends and mixtures yarns/纱线混纺与混用 92
  Questions/思考题 93
Chapter 9 Yarn Properties/纱线性能 94
  9.1 Yarn number/纱线细度 94
9.1.1 Denier system/旦数 94
9.1.2 Yarn count system/纱线英制支数 94
9.1.3 Tex system/线密度 95
9.1.4 Metric numbering system/公制支数 95
9.1.5 Conversion in different systems/不同系统之间的换算 95
  9.2 Ply yarn counts and singles equivalent/股线支数与单纱支数 95
  9.3 Yarn twist/纱线捻度 96
  9.4 Yarn hairiness/纱线毛羽 97
9.4.1 Hairiness test method/毛羽测试方法 98
9.4.2 Factors affecting hairiness/影响毛羽的因素 98
  9.5 Yarn unevenness/纱线不匀 99
9.5.1 Test of yarn unevenness/纱线不匀的测试 99
9.5.2 Reasons for yarn unevenness/纱线不匀的原因 100
  9.6 Classification of yarn quality/纱线质量分析 100
  Questions/思考题 100
Part Ⅳ Textile Fabrics/织物 102  y! |- _. u. @& X1 O& j# e7 D# {
Chapter 10 Woven Fabrics/机织物 102
  10.1 Making woven fabrics/织制机织物 102
10.1.1 The loom/织机 102
10.1.2 Loom type/织机类型 104
10.1.3 Loom motions/织机运动 104
10.1.4 Electronics in weaving/电子技术在织机中的应用 105
10.1.5 The selvage/布边 105
  10.2 Warp yarns and filling yarns/经纱和纬纱 105
10.2.1 Identification/鉴别 106
  10.3 Face and back/正面与反面 106
10.3.1 Reasons for differenee/存在差异的原因 107
10.3.2 Caution/应用的要点 107
  10.4 Top and bottom/顶端和底端 107
10.4.1 Reasons for difference/存在差异的原因 107
  10.5 Weave floats/组织浮线 108
  10.6 Basic weaves/基本组织 108
10.6.1 Plain weave/平纹组织 108
10.6.2 Twill weave/斜纹组织 109
10.6.3 Satin weave/缎纹组织 111
  10.7 Fabric performance and characteristics/织物性能和参数 112
10.7.1 Fabric width/幅宽 112
10.7.2 Fabric weight/织物重量 112
10.7.3 Fabric thickness/织物厚度 113
10.7.4 Fabric density/织物密度 113
10.7.5 Fabric count/织物经纬密度 113
10.7.6 Fabric defects/织物疵点 113
  Questions/思考题 113
Chapter 11 Knitted Fabrics/针织物 114
  11.1 Making of knitted fabric/针织物形成 114
11.1.1 The forming of knitted stitches/线圈的形成 114
11.1.2 Types of knitted stitches/线圈的种类 116
  11.2 Weft knits/纬编针织物 117
11.2.1 Jersey knit fabric/纬平针织物 117
11.2.2 Rib knit fabric/罗纹针织物 118
11.2.3 Purl knit fabric/双反面针织物 119
11.2.4 Double knits/双面针织物 120
11.2.5 Full-fashioned knits/全成形针织物 120
  11.3 Warp knits/经编针织物 121
11.3.1 Tricot fabrics/特里科经编针织物 121
11.3.2 Raschel fabrics/拉舍尔经编针织物 122
  11.4 Performance and characteristics/性能和参数 122
  Questions/思考题 123
Chapter 12 Nonwoven Fabrics/非织造布 124
  12.1 Introduction/导论 124
  12.2 Manufacturing methods/生产方法 125
12.2.1 Dry laid system/干法成网 125
12.2.2 Wet laid system/湿法成网 125
12.2.3 Polymer laid system/聚合物挤压法 125
  12.3 Various nonwovens/各种非织造布 125
12.3.1 Needle punched nonwovens/针刺法非织造布 125
12.3.2 Bonded web nonwovens/黏合法非织造布 126
12.3.3 Spunlaced nonwovens/射流喷网法非织造布 127
12.3.4 Spunbonded nonwovens/纺粘法非织造布 128
12.3.5 Melt-blown nonwovens/熔喷法非织造布 129
  Questions/思考题 129
Part Ⅴ Textile Testing/纺织品测试 130
+ ]1 D& G: T1 Y# {4 v/ H' ` Chapter 13 General Test Methods/常规测试方法 130
  13.1 General fiber tests/纤维常规测试 130
13.1.1 Fiber identification/纤维鉴别 130
13.1.2 Fiber length/纤维长度 134
13.1.3 Fiber fineness or linear density/纤维细度或线密度 135
13.1.4 Cross-sectional shape/截面形状 135
13.1.5 Crimp/卷曲 135
13.1.6 Regain/回潮率 136
13.1.7 Mechanical properties/机械性能 136
13.1.8 Chemical characteristics/化学性能 136
13.1.9 Surface characteristics/表面性能 136
13.1.10 Density and specific gravity/密度和相对密度 137
  13.2 Special tests for natural fibers/天然纤维的测试 137
13.2.1 Tests for cotton/棉纤维测试 137
13.2.2 Tests for wool/毛纤维测试 139
  13.3 Testing of tensile properties/拉伸性能测试 140
13.3.1 Description of tensile proprieties/拉伸性能的描述 141
13.3.2 Fiber and yarn tensile testing/纤维和纱线拉伸性能的测试 146
13.3.3 Fabric tensile testing/织物拉伸性能测试方法 147
  Questions/思考题 149
Chapter 14 Fabric Abrasion and Pilling/织物磨损与起球 150
  14.1 Types of abrasion/磨损的类型 150
14.1.1 Abrasion between fabrics/织物间的磨损 150
14.1.2 Abrasion between fabric and a nontextile surface/织物与非纤维制品表面磨损 150
14.1.3 Abrasion within fabric/织物内部磨损 151
14.1.4 Abrasion by foreign materials within the fabric/与织物内部其他材料的磨损 151
  14.2 Factors affecting fabric abrasion resistance/影响耐磨性能的因素 151
14.2.1 Fabric properties/织物性能 151
14.2.2 Other factors/其他因素 153
  14.3 Abrasion testing/磨损测试 154
14.3.1 Visual comparison with an unabraded specimen/与未磨损样品视觉对比 154
14.3.2 Number of cycles to produce a hole/产生磨损破洞需要的摩擦圈数 154
14.3.3 Change in a physical property/物理性能的变化 154
14.3.4 Microscopic examination/显微镜观测 155
  14.4 Aesthetics of abrasion and wear/穿着和磨损对美感的影响 155
14.4.1 Color changes caused by abrasion/磨损引起的颜色变化 155
14.4.2 Pilling/起球 156
  Questions/思考题 157
Chapter 15 Fabric Hand and Drape/织物手感与悬垂 158
  15.1 Fabric hand/织物手感 158
  15.2 Fabric drape/织物悬垂 159
  15.3 Measurement of hand and drape/手感与悬垂的评价 161
15.3.1 Subjective evaluation/主观评定法 161
15.3.2 Quantitative measurement/定量评定法 162
15.3.3 Kawabata evaluation system/KES评定法 163
  Questions/思考题 163
Chapter 16 Fabric Colorfastness/织物染色牢度 164
  16.1 Evaluation of color and colorfastness/颜色和染色牢度评定方法 164
  16.2 Colorfastness tests/染色牢度测试 164
16.2.1 Colorfastness to crocking/耐摩擦色牢度 164
16.2.2 Colorfastness to laundering and bleaching/耐洗涤和耐漂白色牢 165
16.2.3 Colorfastness to drycleaning/耐干洗色牢度 166
16.2.4 Colorfastness to perspiration/耐汗渍色牢度 166
16.2.5 Colorfastness to water/耐水浸色牢度 166
16.2.6 Colorfastness to light/耐光照色牢度 167
16.2.7 Colorfastness to atmospheric contaminants/耐空气污染色牢度 168
  Questions/思考题 168
Chapter 17 Fabric Flammability/织物可燃性 169
  17.1 Flammability standards/可燃性标准 169
  17.2 Properties affecting flammability/影响可燃性的因素 169
  17.3 Flammability testing/可燃性测试 171
17.3.1 Forty-five degree angle test/45°燃烧测试法 171
17.3.2 Vertical flame tests/垂直燃烧测试法 172
17.3.3 Carpet testing/地毯测试 172
17.3.4 Cigarette tests/卷烟点燃测试 172
17.3.5 Other standard flammability tests/其他可燃性测试 173
  Questions/思考题 173
Chapter 18 Comfort of Textiles/纺织品舒适性 174
  18.1 Physical phenomena affecting thermal comfort/影响热舒适性能的物理现象 174
18.1.1 Heat transfer/热传递 174
18.1.2 Moisture transfer/湿传递 175
18.1.3 Water resistance/抗水性 175
18.1.4 Air transfer/透气性 176
18.1.5 Porosity and cover factor/多孔性和覆盖系数 176
18.1.6 Electrostatic propensity/静电 177
  18.2 Evaluations of textile properties related to comfort/与舒适性相关的纺织品性能评价 177
18.2.1 Heat transfer/热传递 178
18.2.2 Moisture properties/湿传递性能 179
18.2.3 Air permeability/透气性 179
18.2.4 Porosity/孔隙率 180
18.2.5 Electrostatic tests/静电测试 180
  Questions/思考题 180
Appendix/附录 181
AATCC:AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS/美国纺织化学家与染色家协会 181
ASTM:AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR TESTING AND MATERIALS/美国材料试验学会 184
Vocabulary/词汇表 189
References/参考文献 197

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[纺织综合] 纺织材料学（双语教材），刘妍，熊磊，PDF