
纺织材料学(双语教材),刘妍,熊磊,PDF。普通高等教育“十一五”国家级规划教材(本科),纺织工程专业双语教材,电子目录,14M。8 X/ X: T8 Z {3 o2 ?, e
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内容提要0 G( j0 ~ @! A$ A( o
本书讨论了纤维、纱线与织物(包括机织物、针织物及非织造布)的结构、机械性能、物理性能及使用性能。涉及的纤维势括天然纤维(如棉、毛、麻、丝等)、传统化学纤维及新型化学纤维。本书同时介绍了纤维、纱线和织物的各种标准测试方法(包括国际上常用的ASTM, AATCC及GB等方法),并讨论了与各种测试方法有关的测试原理及对测试结果的影响因素。
: ?7 l. A- g' R, r7 y本书可供高等纺织院校纺织、服装相关专业的本科生及研究生作为《纺织材料学》的双语教材或专业英语教材,也可供其他专业师生、纺织贸易专业人员和科研及生产单位的技术人员参考。8 P( B3 [- p% W
目录
8 n$ Z3 N+ J. u% bPart Ⅰ An Introduction to Textiles/纺织入门 18
J9 z) p0 b/ f$ \$ h: X Chapter 1 Introduction/介绍 18
6 w! o% u: l# F2 U/ e7 s/ p) r- E9 G 1.1 ASTM Standard Terminology Relating to Textiles/ASTM纺织标准术语 18$ Q' |3 B) d0 I; {
1.2 Fiber history/纤维历史 26$ D5 M! @' ~+ o7 K5 X
1.2.1 Natural fibers/天然纤维 264 Q" M% d" Q' _9 V/ ~0 b
1.2.2 Man-made fibers/化学纤维 278 b8 T3 y: t8 `5 a. Y! R0 p X4 Y% P
Questions/思考题 306 ]6 r( S% A, w' }( H. R! D- r2 W
Part Ⅱ Textile Fibers/纺织纤维 32! |* L* Y( P9 v6 v* g6 }/ O
Chapter 2 Natural Cellulosic Fibers/天然纤维素纤维 32) K9 Z0 F, n( ]1 {) ~
2.1 Cotton/棉 334 ^( d$ P$ {7 y$ R3 |
2.1.1 Nature of cotton/棉花的种类 33
. K* a+ b6 ^1 |2 f& u c 2.1.2 Classification/分类 34$ C. y+ b [: h9 B2 Y7 ^& t( {1 Y+ \
2.1.3 Growth and structure of cotton/棉纤维的生长与结构 34
4 G3 p0 j; Q& k8 y) a0 k4 P4 A h 2.1.4 Maturity/成熟度 36
0 r8 I# v0 H2 @; K T1 _! i6 a$ C4 l 2.1.5 Cotton properties/棉纤维的性能 38! W; I9 B- ?/ m2 S
2.1.6 Cotton classification/棉花分级 39
5 V6 a( J6 J; @/ A 2.2 Bast fibers/韧皮纤维 40
' ^% h9 Z% |& j5 K" u6 p 2.2.1 Flax (linen)/亚麻,亚麻织物 413 a7 Q2 W {" u9 G
2.2.2 Ramie/苎麻 439 @0 {. K8 t$ {/ r6 y
2.2.3 Hemp/汉麻 441 s; O* ?7 U! z& c) q: Q9 k
2.2.4 Jute/黄麻 44
M1 y$ \2 ]* ?0 U( `8 Q O2 B Questions/思考题 45
5 e: x7 ^' `6 g2 C, \, @ Chapter 3 Natural Protein Fibers/天然蛋白质纤维 46! p- s9 o& a2 o4 U
3.1 Wool/绵羊毛 46
; A; p9 [* Y4 M 3.1.1 Wool production and history/羊毛生产和历史 463 P4 v& T7 y$ n. M
3.1.2 Wool grading/羊毛分级 47
+ D, r, U% z. M# S3 H 3.1.3 Wool structure/羊毛结构 477 M' p% l- G% ~7 [" m; N
3.1.4 Wool properties/羊毛性能 483 b: A( V0 V" f. M; Y& s8 F
3.2 Specialty animal fibers/特种动物毛 514 o: u o- C0 c, L3 V9 c
3.3 Silk/丝 52
( U3 `* p/ x' Z& l/ t$ F# r Questions/思考题 547 s) S9 F7 k, e4 L5 U
Chapter 4 Man-made Fibers/化学纤维 55) [8 B3 m, b" d9 k! @6 u' R. L
4.1 Manufacturing processing of fiber/纤维生产工艺 55
. L; i" D$ U; Y7 G' N G' e 4.1.1 Wet spinning/湿法纺丝 56
6 o" X/ T8 F' z 4.1.2 Dry spinning/干法纺丝 56
8 n( Q* ^- u$ G0 U2 c3 N* v! x3 p 4.1.3 Melt spinning/熔体法纺丝 56, H+ I9 R/ j/ \; E5 q2 P
4.1.4 Gel spinning/凝胶纺丝 57 a7 n; L1 j) P8 ` f: b* n( o
4.2 Regenerated fibers/再生纤维 57! g3 F2 W7 a X# O2 g
4.2.1 Acetate/醋酯纤维 57
" L, ^' e7 {" J: S5 \2 v4 t% x 4.2.2 Triacetate/三醋酯纤维 59. J$ |4 ]9 K; M2 v* a4 A k
4.2.3 Viscose fibers/粘胶纤维 59$ d9 ]6 V& [# |2 L9 L7 }( ?1 U6 m
4.3 Synthetic fibers/合成纤维 601 Q3 k# Z& b' ]; @6 X
4.3.1 Acrylic/腈纶 60
0 ]; A& L3 G* D& Y 4.3.2 Modacrylic/改性腈纶 61: V; ]) M. P1 W' r5 j1 P
4.3.3 Nylon/锦纶 613 n" F4 @/ M2 f; ~& J" K) m
4.3.4 Polyester/涤纶 62
$ B! [% e6 C1 V: m 4.3.5 PBI/聚苯并咪唑纤维 63: w3 `! V; ` ]' ^2 e/ X- x
4.3.6 Vinal/聚乙烯醇纤维 63
8 C2 w3 g0 J& t7 e) Z2 ~ e2 A 4.3.7 Olefin/聚烯烃纤维 63
; F) J1 f2 M% q8 ^& B1 ` 4.3.8 Aramid/芳纶 64& @3 q5 x7 s; x1 }" `. K
4.3.9 Lycra/莱卡 64
( P8 \5 j& E8 N 4.4 Other man-made fibers/其他化学纤维 66
( o) a3 `7 g3 f9 R, \+ f- q 4.4.1 Glass/玻璃纤维 66+ O* s6 z( [& y2 ]& Y
4.4.2 Metallic/金属纤维 67$ |4 V; I, V7 H1 i1 C
Questions/思考题 67
2 ?$ T' Y# c- g/ K |! P8 d# \& n Chapter 5 New Fibers/新型纤维 681 A5 @' J. O3 h$ |; U1 ]9 a
5.1 Carbon fibers/碳纤维 68
. A: m% Z1 N+ ~8 ?! E' q 5.2 Fluorocarbon/氟碳纤维 68$ m+ R4 ^, K2 w# _
5.3 Lyocell fibers(Tencel)/莱塞尔纤维 681 M( W& h* l) a- M! {
5.4 High-wet-modulus fibers/高湿模量纤维 69
4 e( g. n# o7 c- Q 5.4.1 Modal fibers/莫代尔纤维 69/ R2 y$ C8 d1 }
5.4.2 Richcel/丽赛纤维 70
" G+ u$ i! b9 a f4 r 5.5 Soybean protein composite fibers/大豆蛋白复合纤维 70
2 F) r8 b2 C* T+ m$ J. z/ V7 ]" m. n 5.6 PLA fiber/聚左旋乳酸纤维 71
8 s5 S4 ~4 H. ~, u3 T 5.7 Heterogenous fibers/复合纤维 71) x; Y+ G9 C$ x* o
5.7.1 Bicomponent or multicomponent/双组分或多组分 72
! C) ~) m% g2 u1 V 5.7.2 Biconstituent or multiconstituent/双成分或多成分 73
, j( m! X; g, }: \* ~9 \* l 5.7.3 Matrix or matrix-fibril/基质型纤维 736 ^' O7 d# H# Y. k. F0 c3 b9 O
5.8 Differential fibers/差别化纤维 74
, F9 u ^* k! i 5.9 Functional fibers/功能性纤维 74
3 i4 G5 G! S% s/ y 5.10 High performance fibers/高性能纤维 74
% C* L4 m9 k* q4 @ Questions/思考题 74
/ S% |; y4 @* X5 k Chapter 6 The Property of Absorbing Moisture/吸湿性 75
7 d6 }7 d2 K% W' Q) W* |6 T7 ~ 6.1 Orientation and crystallization/取向与结晶 75( q2 W' j7 g6 X
6.2 Moisture sorption/吸湿性 75# L5 s# G/ ^, D/ a: t* _
6.2.1 Regain and moisture content/回潮率与含水率 75' e7 d& i! d# l6 [' u3 V) q
6.2.2 Relation between regain and relative humidity/回潮率与相对湿度的关系 75
; d0 p, Z5 g( c7 e1 O9 p 6.2.3 Comparison of various materials/不同材料吸湿性的对比 76: K& i3 A4 k- G ` `6 g! Q
6.2.4 Theories of moisture sorption/吸湿理论 78. w% Y* b- R P6 p; }) _; y
Questions/思考题 80% l6 K5 b5 @5 R0 I* U9 p
Chapter 7 Other Physical Properties of Textile Fibers/纤维的其他物理性能 81
1 ^ G1 P4 Z* `) V) u 7.1 Electronic properties/电学性能 81
! B' T/ Q. u2 h& h; _; w4 G 7.1.1 Definitions/定义 81
* Q: f3 A$ W6 F1 I- x6 R 7.2 Optical properties/光学性能 82
! s" \( C0 P6 e0 F. I 7.3 Thermal properties/热学性能 83+ M& R2 o; j: B+ x$ U; @
7.3.1 Thermal parameters/热力学参数 83
( H; { l' u/ A2 _: v% p 7.3.2 A comparison of temperature effects/温度效应比较 83
1 l, c2 l& w- @ Questions/思考题 83
( z6 U/ ?. x; k2 x" v1 yPart Ⅲ Textile Yarns/纺织纱线 84, p0 h+ e+ w: [
Chapter 8 Yarn Processing and Construction/纱线制造与结构 84
0 ?3 P# m. F" `3 v6 g/ Y7 E0 @# s! z 8.1 Spun yarns/短纤纱 85
4 H! y! c. a( ^" u/ \ 8.2 Filament yarns/长丝纱 853 a6 A0 d) |$ O! C Q5 M/ C
8.3 Methods of yarn processing/纺纱方法 85
7 a# _+ p9 Y: p2 y 8.3.1 Ring-spinning/环锭纺 86 o; K( Y9 G" t e' [
8.3.2 New methods of yarn processing/新型纺纱方法 861 C5 W: ?; m1 c0 p4 s$ X, u2 B( H- b7 C
8.4 Single and ply yarns/单纱和股线 89) J: L* d" ]& U$ y8 ^
8.5 Special types of yarn/特种纱线 90
; H2 K8 O; }6 Z r 8.5.1 Fancy yarns/花式纱 90
* ~# u) A" t; ~3 J5 i: C 8.5.2 Stretch yarns/弹力纱 91
7 c. X R& W% ] {( N4 j# a 8.5.3 Textured yarns 变形纱线 91! t0 T# Z& Y: w4 \2 Z% E4 S& ?
8.6 Blends and mixtures yarns/纱线混纺与混用 92! O1 Z2 Q$ C, D- A5 G! r n! m
Questions/思考题 93
y* |: J$ c! |- z" k& }! h- Z Chapter 9 Yarn Properties/纱线性能 94
7 w: H4 S- z$ p/ J. g& G- E0 F9 d 9.1 Yarn number/纱线细度 94
' I0 L5 Q6 i; j2 \+ a5 U 9.1.1 Denier system/旦数 94
# p ~8 j+ V9 v( }% j& E6 [ 9.1.2 Yarn count system/纱线英制支数 94
% t! o9 R, Q3 c5 [5 M/ P3 F5 p$ B 9.1.3 Tex system/线密度 95; m6 G# }' c( Y' }
9.1.4 Metric numbering system/公制支数 95
) N% O$ ]. S* c& c. C1 L# \4 @ 9.1.5 Conversion in different systems/不同系统之间的换算 954 v" a# s, `- S
9.2 Ply yarn counts and singles equivalent/股线支数与单纱支数 95
" S' l0 k2 k6 |5 p; h 9.3 Yarn twist/纱线捻度 96
# i+ [1 K+ p6 X( ^! V% F 9.4 Yarn hairiness/纱线毛羽 97
/ N$ Y3 F' V7 R" g 9.4.1 Hairiness test method/毛羽测试方法 98
q/ I. V0 @ }9 D& _8 p 9.4.2 Factors affecting hairiness/影响毛羽的因素 98
6 C- ~6 |: D+ D6 W d4 E9 H 9.5 Yarn unevenness/纱线不匀 99
$ a$ E7 \1 S4 y 9.5.1 Test of yarn unevenness/纱线不匀的测试 99 ?- v" J7 t N
9.5.2 Reasons for yarn unevenness/纱线不匀的原因 1003 m2 M( I3 Q& u4 u4 {
9.6 Classification of yarn quality/纱线质量分析 100$ i: X5 ?; s1 H$ [$ V1 L
Questions/思考题 1004 p) s0 G3 u" r' H! p: G* I
Part Ⅳ Textile Fabrics/织物 102" \/ B- X- i- i( U9 ]
Chapter 10 Woven Fabrics/机织物 102
! ~2 s, A! V4 L 10.1 Making woven fabrics/织制机织物 102
3 K5 h9 z; M/ n) { 10.1.1 The loom/织机 102
2 \5 ~: {6 s: z: w 10.1.2 Loom type/织机类型 1044 n$ [0 P! \9 L8 x
10.1.3 Loom motions/织机运动 104
, U6 _$ I4 ^- g$ r1 Q! q/ x 10.1.4 Electronics in weaving/电子技术在织机中的应用 105
9 X" Q$ |; N+ B4 x9 b3 ~ 10.1.5 The selvage/布边 105
1 ?' _) B1 Z& a0 u* h4 X 10.2 Warp yarns and filling yarns/经纱和纬纱 105
! O- M0 l* l' R } {0 s3 Q2 i 10.2.1 Identification/鉴别 106' N3 V; C$ S" B
10.3 Face and back/正面与反面 1068 ~- a/ T6 t0 A- u% i
10.3.1 Reasons for differenee/存在差异的原因 107
0 u: ^2 @5 H- l9 @* j 10.3.2 Caution/应用的要点 107
4 `- }% ^( n7 z( l2 Z+ m+ l3 b 10.4 Top and bottom/顶端和底端 107
! f3 W! ]( ^. Y9 @1 t 10.4.1 Reasons for difference/存在差异的原因 107
2 \7 }4 V/ C; N 10.5 Weave floats/组织浮线 108
( C& ?* l2 V- Z) q 10.6 Basic weaves/基本组织 108
1 w8 I" k2 \ v: ^ 10.6.1 Plain weave/平纹组织 108
7 |( i {3 g# n+ T* J 10.6.2 Twill weave/斜纹组织 109" p! m4 J, \! i- Q8 `8 _
10.6.3 Satin weave/缎纹组织 111* t9 i, E( \& b* N; _
10.7 Fabric performance and characteristics/织物性能和参数 112; f! c6 n w9 ^: f+ d8 y
10.7.1 Fabric width/幅宽 1127 w6 t8 Q# B7 R8 y
10.7.2 Fabric weight/织物重量 112
2 [2 d( M" w" R( ~3 I! P 10.7.3 Fabric thickness/织物厚度 113
$ S) s' F) Q! z 10.7.4 Fabric density/织物密度 113
8 q; X) y3 U1 Q* Q# t& @" h5 q 10.7.5 Fabric count/织物经纬密度 113
: k" h7 H1 r. j4 i# K 10.7.6 Fabric defects/织物疵点 113
; {9 _# V( z n( ~, s' Y Questions/思考题 113: U7 c+ T; r% \* T: D
Chapter 11 Knitted Fabrics/针织物 114$ L5 B5 w! q' d1 t
11.1 Making of knitted fabric/针织物形成 114* `4 u2 _4 F7 i/ U9 w6 C: O8 F
11.1.1 The forming of knitted stitches/线圈的形成 114
) M- U+ Q" U7 F 11.1.2 Types of knitted stitches/线圈的种类 116
: ]# J# a6 M; D 11.2 Weft knits/纬编针织物 1176 @! |: ?; j; Y4 E2 J- r
11.2.1 Jersey knit fabric/纬平针织物 117! e$ J! R1 d. P n, z3 l$ X
11.2.2 Rib knit fabric/罗纹针织物 118/ [% Y7 F# x+ n% i; k* S. n
11.2.3 Purl knit fabric/双反面针织物 1195 n; v: j7 Y1 S
11.2.4 Double knits/双面针织物 120( y( r# {( k- m0 \. o F
11.2.5 Full-fashioned knits/全成形针织物 120
2 L$ [9 o' I0 A7 A( D6 j8 a 11.3 Warp knits/经编针织物 121
z/ C% a6 k: ` 11.3.1 Tricot fabrics/特里科经编针织物 121& O2 m/ H7 @3 i5 V; I [
11.3.2 Raschel fabrics/拉舍尔经编针织物 122
3 a# S: U3 R& L% |, D 11.4 Performance and characteristics/性能和参数 122
4 \+ P! R: w( Z9 ~' A* s Questions/思考题 123* f- y1 M- D; v- g3 C+ D" j+ [
Chapter 12 Nonwoven Fabrics/非织造布 124
' J- L9 m. {9 D$ _' K v 12.1 Introduction/导论 124
/ l9 X* |! v* p: ~; k# Y 12.2 Manufacturing methods/生产方法 125
5 ?- w' i. [4 q7 [ 12.2.1 Dry laid system/干法成网 125: j" V% _" t; I! P1 X
12.2.2 Wet laid system/湿法成网 125
+ E* Q3 w: P' J/ J8 [ 12.2.3 Polymer laid system/聚合物挤压法 125/ O2 ?) |1 ~9 S: `% A: G8 f( b# n
12.3 Various nonwovens/各种非织造布 125! c. S- E- r# g( y) q! t6 ?
12.3.1 Needle punched nonwovens/针刺法非织造布 125( A0 p# S" B: N4 f. U* D% Q
12.3.2 Bonded web nonwovens/黏合法非织造布 1267 c4 n6 S8 o- b
12.3.3 Spunlaced nonwovens/射流喷网法非织造布 1278 }* D" p, X* n9 _
12.3.4 Spunbonded nonwovens/纺粘法非织造布 128- g: `0 n; ~1 `. `! c( r* z, N( T1 M
12.3.5 Melt-blown nonwovens/熔喷法非织造布 129: V$ E$ X$ i* p2 l3 Z# F
Questions/思考题 129
& p# S+ U# B, d2 z' C! ePart Ⅴ Textile Testing/纺织品测试 130
$ |1 O/ q5 L, c) [/ i0 ?2 i Chapter 13 General Test Methods/常规测试方法 130
6 `2 i$ P0 I& F: e) E* X* ^ 13.1 General fiber tests/纤维常规测试 1306 B' L! P0 @) U6 H( ]
13.1.1 Fiber identification/纤维鉴别 130
/ W. |0 H: z& u 13.1.2 Fiber length/纤维长度 134
$ v) e+ Q5 }: [0 d* U( D( Z. }2 E/ } 13.1.3 Fiber fineness or linear density/纤维细度或线密度 1356 O% Q0 H; f% W2 o9 ?. Y6 g( P
13.1.4 Cross-sectional shape/截面形状 135) t" y" ^/ p; \% q+ e, Q
13.1.5 Crimp/卷曲 135
0 F1 Z/ C, b$ o 13.1.6 Regain/回潮率 136
3 `4 M5 d2 L4 x8 B% Q 13.1.7 Mechanical properties/机械性能 136
- g! L8 k: y) P* B' X( G0 q$ _8 s 13.1.8 Chemical characteristics/化学性能 1364 ~: I$ l$ e; c+ g3 y8 }8 ?& a
13.1.9 Surface characteristics/表面性能 1367 X9 k, r f% n8 a Z% q
13.1.10 Density and specific gravity/密度和相对密度 137
% |! O2 K1 ?9 u$ q 13.2 Special tests for natural fibers/天然纤维的测试 1372 s+ V5 d1 t1 L3 F( g5 w0 I. r3 F) ]
13.2.1 Tests for cotton/棉纤维测试 137
. j2 W) b7 s# p- e2 B2 Y 13.2.2 Tests for wool/毛纤维测试 139
! u6 g9 @6 Q; L# E2 {" l* X \% a 13.3 Testing of tensile properties/拉伸性能测试 140
; |2 {" j3 ], N9 {8 L 13.3.1 Description of tensile proprieties/拉伸性能的描述 1419 p3 G( e' F$ f2 d
13.3.2 Fiber and yarn tensile testing/纤维和纱线拉伸性能的测试 146
. G+ r8 m. d3 f4 X 13.3.3 Fabric tensile testing/织物拉伸性能测试方法 147
" f, K7 P* Z7 C9 l: b Questions/思考题 149
, }9 | i% C6 S2 R3 s+ A1 x Chapter 14 Fabric Abrasion and Pilling/织物磨损与起球 150. f5 ?! B8 q7 C6 z5 I5 a6 ^
14.1 Types of abrasion/磨损的类型 150
4 d& ?, @4 ~) J2 S0 u C9 N1 E3 s6 l 14.1.1 Abrasion between fabrics/织物间的磨损 150
, k( T% V% V: }- d. v 14.1.2 Abrasion between fabric and a nontextile surface/织物与非纤维制品表面磨损 1502 U+ ~. C: s+ q2 h/ `
14.1.3 Abrasion within fabric/织物内部磨损 1518 Y6 j4 N$ J) ?/ T+ m) ?6 f1 y
14.1.4 Abrasion by foreign materials within the fabric/与织物内部其他材料的磨损 151: j! Q, B/ C( A, p% x* ^8 u
14.2 Factors affecting fabric abrasion resistance/影响耐磨性能的因素 151
' j/ q k) m0 E0 B* m r- f$ W$ p5 l) Y 14.2.1 Fabric properties/织物性能 151
" s. X6 x2 N1 ~ 14.2.2 Other factors/其他因素 153/ C2 l* j5 J d% k* P) B7 u
14.3 Abrasion testing/磨损测试 154
; J7 }# K) _' N' j4 N 14.3.1 Visual comparison with an unabraded specimen/与未磨损样品视觉对比 154. d0 P8 d" W @; o
14.3.2 Number of cycles to produce a hole/产生磨损破洞需要的摩擦圈数 154! L. a) s' ?* u9 K2 B9 C6 }! M
14.3.3 Change in a physical property/物理性能的变化 1545 N' ]! }7 x {3 m# [; L/ M9 ]" R0 [+ h
14.3.4 Microscopic examination/显微镜观测 1558 F& l9 I5 ^" Q7 P9 d
14.4 Aesthetics of abrasion and wear/穿着和磨损对美感的影响 1559 k3 s! q* q( S5 U
14.4.1 Color changes caused by abrasion/磨损引起的颜色变化 155
* H/ h+ r: x& _- D, N$ a 14.4.2 Pilling/起球 156
3 K8 a" \3 @ T8 d8 y% q- Q% Q Questions/思考题 157
0 M- t* _3 f _& ?4 [ Chapter 15 Fabric Hand and Drape/织物手感与悬垂 158
: O4 v! C; `- A2 R# o" p 15.1 Fabric hand/织物手感 158) ^8 X4 ?- @, {1 C; P! k2 I/ g
15.2 Fabric drape/织物悬垂 159
2 k, J% X `) [3 @. E# x2 ~) D1 J 15.3 Measurement of hand and drape/手感与悬垂的评价 1611 L# p. \' h' c0 r
15.3.1 Subjective evaluation/主观评定法 161
; I/ ^! k' H) K! T2 Q0 S 15.3.2 Quantitative measurement/定量评定法 162; R/ A+ I; \9 g6 M6 {/ E
15.3.3 Kawabata evaluation system/KES评定法 1639 ]- e- _* _0 i3 l0 ~3 N
Questions/思考题 163
6 O* A: l& E* s. j( u Chapter 16 Fabric Colorfastness/织物染色牢度 164
' Y& S& {9 l9 j5 K# x3 B 16.1 Evaluation of color and colorfastness/颜色和染色牢度评定方法 164
: u6 l4 C3 h% `- P7 {$ h 16.2 Colorfastness tests/染色牢度测试 1648 E4 f# r# a, i4 O# N( r
16.2.1 Colorfastness to crocking/耐摩擦色牢度 164
: Y- O' D# @+ `- P8 | 16.2.2 Colorfastness to laundering and bleaching/耐洗涤和耐漂白色牢 165
6 m# d' N5 _! p; d: N/ H 16.2.3 Colorfastness to drycleaning/耐干洗色牢度 1662 |/ Z& a( d/ x; I3 r7 P- L
16.2.4 Colorfastness to perspiration/耐汗渍色牢度 166
8 z5 v/ h9 A( i1 o/ L4 u0 t 16.2.5 Colorfastness to water/耐水浸色牢度 166- j3 k4 E( }* U
16.2.6 Colorfastness to light/耐光照色牢度 1676 c/ t0 q2 l) S0 z c) U) M
16.2.7 Colorfastness to atmospheric contaminants/耐空气污染色牢度 168
' q+ Q7 e0 n5 A3 N) _3 K Questions/思考题 168
7 H( A, Z) \4 J8 b$ {- o, w Chapter 17 Fabric Flammability/织物可燃性 169
9 i% V% z0 l3 o" A( Q 17.1 Flammability standards/可燃性标准 169+ O* O5 d+ g8 Q9 R/ h2 M. S: `: @: L
17.2 Properties affecting flammability/影响可燃性的因素 169
$ X. o5 }" x/ ~2 ^& c 17.3 Flammability testing/可燃性测试 1714 t1 o; N/ B' P2 X
17.3.1 Forty-five degree angle test/45°燃烧测试法 171
- ^2 p- d7 Y9 D( g) L& h 17.3.2 Vertical flame tests/垂直燃烧测试法 172$ N" X5 n" R6 `7 y
17.3.3 Carpet testing/地毯测试 172
7 K7 W: F$ @# v/ i$ J: Q1 R- ] 17.3.4 Cigarette tests/卷烟点燃测试 172
( \$ D. [/ x/ D! K' H 17.3.5 Other standard flammability tests/其他可燃性测试 173
' l, p! a7 b& v& q1 z# o Questions/思考题 1731 j$ q% h0 p1 T C: B! q
Chapter 18 Comfort of Textiles/纺织品舒适性 1743 C, g* R/ y+ F6 K& h# A2 v
18.1 Physical phenomena affecting thermal comfort/影响热舒适性能的物理现象 174
3 |: `* w. b w# Z7 F 18.1.1 Heat transfer/热传递 174& v# U% w4 w0 ^! |4 `' D
18.1.2 Moisture transfer/湿传递 175
! R7 v6 z1 j- Y3 s 18.1.3 Water resistance/抗水性 175
: n# s! A; {0 k8 Z1 Y$ k 18.1.4 Air transfer/透气性 1769 `5 J: U$ y; ]+ M# j
18.1.5 Porosity and cover factor/多孔性和覆盖系数 1764 @/ p7 Z' C; A! [) f/ S- o- m/ L
18.1.6 Electrostatic propensity/静电 1770 ~+ a6 L3 e9 `, O
18.2 Evaluations of textile properties related to comfort/与舒适性相关的纺织品性能评价 1779 p8 G1 S3 V5 J
18.2.1 Heat transfer/热传递 1787 r+ n& @8 K+ v( Q
18.2.2 Moisture properties/湿传递性能 179
d! f$ s( c+ _) q: m6 s: B 18.2.3 Air permeability/透气性 179
5 d& K3 l$ A1 _8 e0 c+ b 18.2.4 Porosity/孔隙率 180
9 }6 H' X; G* I/ ]7 V 18.2.5 Electrostatic tests/静电测试 1801 N$ |2 s1 z. D! z6 ?
Questions/思考题 1807 y5 w6 q* x0 U' G" K& E+ f9 a
Appendix/附录 181
8 g1 D2 V( `. I: b2 c AATCC:AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS/美国纺织化学家与染色家协会 181, E/ [( A N( b1 c2 W
ASTM:AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR TESTING AND MATERIALS/美国材料试验学会 184
4 O$ } K# [# t, F* f: zVocabulary/词汇表 189
: y- N% x& T0 y; YReferences/参考文献 197
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