
纺织材料学(双语教材),刘妍,熊磊,PDF。普通高等教育“十一五”国家级规划教材(本科),纺织工程专业双语教材,电子目录,14M。
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) ]" b6 D! E2 Z内容提要2 Y5 f) J, v& H4 N8 p
本书讨论了纤维、纱线与织物(包括机织物、针织物及非织造布)的结构、机械性能、物理性能及使用性能。涉及的纤维势括天然纤维(如棉、毛、麻、丝等)、传统化学纤维及新型化学纤维。本书同时介绍了纤维、纱线和织物的各种标准测试方法(包括国际上常用的ASTM, AATCC及GB等方法),并讨论了与各种测试方法有关的测试原理及对测试结果的影响因素。' l( i/ Q- L$ E* R
本书可供高等纺织院校纺织、服装相关专业的本科生及研究生作为《纺织材料学》的双语教材或专业英语教材,也可供其他专业师生、纺织贸易专业人员和科研及生产单位的技术人员参考。; [. b, d" @& ^: Q: W1 H
目录0 L. c) f: T% @3 w4 e* B9 M5 w
Part Ⅰ An Introduction to Textiles/纺织入门 183 A$ A# Y# u* d
Chapter 1 Introduction/介绍 189 _. Y' F) u0 }2 P
1.1 ASTM Standard Terminology Relating to Textiles/ASTM纺织标准术语 18
- D8 ]: k' U) x k# B 1.2 Fiber history/纤维历史 26
r/ x2 W3 D4 p0 w. J 1.2.1 Natural fibers/天然纤维 264 ?' y( o& Y9 j! \) V
1.2.2 Man-made fibers/化学纤维 27
! Y( h1 Z! s1 y: }, `$ U Questions/思考题 30# l" W8 |6 m! P4 p$ z5 {. K" f* C
Part Ⅱ Textile Fibers/纺织纤维 323 ^6 G& [/ ]3 o: m; \6 ?6 k% t! }
Chapter 2 Natural Cellulosic Fibers/天然纤维素纤维 32
6 L6 Z' L- X$ ~4 B/ c& _% m 2.1 Cotton/棉 33
/ J* O' E& ]3 D1 M0 C' w/ U1 C. h 2.1.1 Nature of cotton/棉花的种类 33
! ^. N0 @8 r. B- k4 G 2.1.2 Classification/分类 34
6 Z" B% [ M: u T5 E2 M* X 2.1.3 Growth and structure of cotton/棉纤维的生长与结构 34
( ~6 B C4 j& R- E3 i 2.1.4 Maturity/成熟度 36/ P- a: l/ |/ U0 c7 B
2.1.5 Cotton properties/棉纤维的性能 389 y# [! x; t+ f( B+ u. K
2.1.6 Cotton classification/棉花分级 391 B9 Z4 Z8 G3 N% ]1 l) F& ~1 u
2.2 Bast fibers/韧皮纤维 40
, P" V- K% t; I! u6 { 2.2.1 Flax (linen)/亚麻,亚麻织物 41# \ L/ S8 g" u, b
2.2.2 Ramie/苎麻 43
7 e3 f, ] t) h4 E- i 2.2.3 Hemp/汉麻 44
4 S& c# K/ [9 F+ q; ` 2.2.4 Jute/黄麻 441 G1 q" z. P* N! U9 }* ]4 H6 B
Questions/思考题 45* Y7 ^3 N- E$ O& y: I3 ~, o1 a! G
Chapter 3 Natural Protein Fibers/天然蛋白质纤维 46
+ A* {! M8 U+ x- E3 o1 M 3.1 Wool/绵羊毛 463 N& ]+ r6 p! ~& `7 ~- W f
3.1.1 Wool production and history/羊毛生产和历史 46% `' m' O3 L; y& X- |- k) e
3.1.2 Wool grading/羊毛分级 47
! t5 o1 R C' M, y 3.1.3 Wool structure/羊毛结构 478 [' H1 k& p' ]2 z6 Z* m. B. H
3.1.4 Wool properties/羊毛性能 48
5 I5 p* t5 H3 w* `& R$ b# e 3.2 Specialty animal fibers/特种动物毛 511 n2 c' G- `. A2 W) b
3.3 Silk/丝 52) R" l2 S9 a9 N& A7 w, {( t* b
Questions/思考题 54% _# |1 B7 h( O* @$ h; d0 Y+ ~
Chapter 4 Man-made Fibers/化学纤维 55
' Y+ v# E$ C$ q 4.1 Manufacturing processing of fiber/纤维生产工艺 55
9 e2 {$ v4 y* H3 |) Q3 s 4.1.1 Wet spinning/湿法纺丝 56
6 c: H. o8 G* S+ j6 S, }# ~( m 4.1.2 Dry spinning/干法纺丝 56
1 f/ d# T" X2 K6 h& e9 M* Q 4.1.3 Melt spinning/熔体法纺丝 56: A" }* O; d: M" Q- U+ Q
4.1.4 Gel spinning/凝胶纺丝 57
% H2 X: a% v9 q2 F 4.2 Regenerated fibers/再生纤维 57* o# U8 Q& M7 z' d8 S: S
4.2.1 Acetate/醋酯纤维 57
9 x4 F" u: ]) ] 4.2.2 Triacetate/三醋酯纤维 59
7 {" V' F, W3 b( Q, o) n 4.2.3 Viscose fibers/粘胶纤维 59) |+ H: I8 T; N- r
4.3 Synthetic fibers/合成纤维 60
2 i# @ a2 Y$ \! s 4.3.1 Acrylic/腈纶 60 h4 E- g+ R* j( n
4.3.2 Modacrylic/改性腈纶 61# j b4 J( D5 @8 }+ q
4.3.3 Nylon/锦纶 61
( e# {7 {: x3 B 4.3.4 Polyester/涤纶 62, G6 R& `& c- ?
4.3.5 PBI/聚苯并咪唑纤维 63
" M8 o: s2 y0 k7 v# \: X( a 4.3.6 Vinal/聚乙烯醇纤维 63
. ^" G! r8 h" N6 W3 I( y1 w 4.3.7 Olefin/聚烯烃纤维 63
) F; z5 C* l4 o2 J" E 4.3.8 Aramid/芳纶 64
0 X8 i) F8 |4 r- x/ |3 C 4.3.9 Lycra/莱卡 64+ l6 b- T& A6 K3 Y/ r* A
4.4 Other man-made fibers/其他化学纤维 66) q: D. Q7 u0 I& x2 e! j5 L9 c4 W
4.4.1 Glass/玻璃纤维 66
+ x" U7 b6 M- N, a; f- Z" w/ M3 Y' ` 4.4.2 Metallic/金属纤维 67
* y X+ h6 G: B& j- k. I) P9 C Questions/思考题 67
( _1 q! e- @. G Chapter 5 New Fibers/新型纤维 68
4 d2 @2 p' F' P5 H/ v8 x4 I6 L 5.1 Carbon fibers/碳纤维 68# e9 w3 ?2 m0 L8 I! {: s. E
5.2 Fluorocarbon/氟碳纤维 68% Q" C5 b6 @7 c$ a0 _' k
5.3 Lyocell fibers(Tencel)/莱塞尔纤维 684 u. ?8 \% T5 `4 r# S
5.4 High-wet-modulus fibers/高湿模量纤维 69
8 \$ ^7 U5 ~6 j 5.4.1 Modal fibers/莫代尔纤维 69' w5 b5 B- z9 E3 Q8 @9 D
5.4.2 Richcel/丽赛纤维 70
4 o7 O8 V. r- i1 T* d) Y' N" l8 h# A 5.5 Soybean protein composite fibers/大豆蛋白复合纤维 70
. P; a4 \: D- ] n% `+ u P3 ` 5.6 PLA fiber/聚左旋乳酸纤维 71
6 w2 {, Q7 L* X2 m1 W* ~ 5.7 Heterogenous fibers/复合纤维 71
' f4 l. J9 a* H9 s! X7 V) P3 q 5.7.1 Bicomponent or multicomponent/双组分或多组分 72
9 b; k9 K! o3 \- c7 v/ j' I+ c+ t- V# o 5.7.2 Biconstituent or multiconstituent/双成分或多成分 739 K5 ^8 G& t- O# V/ [
5.7.3 Matrix or matrix-fibril/基质型纤维 73. V/ E5 U8 r1 j T- D- L
5.8 Differential fibers/差别化纤维 74 t& e% t. @7 f) e1 H' J
5.9 Functional fibers/功能性纤维 74
7 U7 |7 o4 R$ ~8 y3 K% O, T3 B# O: \ 5.10 High performance fibers/高性能纤维 74
+ i% B! }7 e! ]7 D) e/ ~8 P0 b- f Questions/思考题 74
* |& h; a( y) B7 V# c Chapter 6 The Property of Absorbing Moisture/吸湿性 75' U2 g$ `+ |- n5 w4 J% D, X
6.1 Orientation and crystallization/取向与结晶 75- g0 x$ g# g8 v+ |) o3 t
6.2 Moisture sorption/吸湿性 753 [" G0 I/ Y: v: t( m, T
6.2.1 Regain and moisture content/回潮率与含水率 75+ z# S4 @2 a8 \7 m0 [+ U" }& }' B
6.2.2 Relation between regain and relative humidity/回潮率与相对湿度的关系 75
: `% r0 z/ b8 S$ x' W' c9 I 6.2.3 Comparison of various materials/不同材料吸湿性的对比 76: D0 S; D4 \( d6 X$ U
6.2.4 Theories of moisture sorption/吸湿理论 78
3 F) T7 J- }9 _8 |; L; S Questions/思考题 80& x+ c( o/ B" m" L) l
Chapter 7 Other Physical Properties of Textile Fibers/纤维的其他物理性能 817 ^ O: f' q: F* e& @" M& }. _
7.1 Electronic properties/电学性能 812 Q) {# K& m0 m' R/ G0 z4 Z
7.1.1 Definitions/定义 816 \9 j3 O! Q1 N
7.2 Optical properties/光学性能 821 f7 }, b) t& N, I
7.3 Thermal properties/热学性能 836 Z* L2 H5 h( C; p: q9 r
7.3.1 Thermal parameters/热力学参数 83+ X. h/ d- t D2 A2 s+ K" h
7.3.2 A comparison of temperature effects/温度效应比较 83
5 `! b# _5 l4 [# V8 v! l4 g Questions/思考题 83* u3 Y# x" Y& ~6 y% k8 D* ?4 M
Part Ⅲ Textile Yarns/纺织纱线 84
% |% i4 O2 p# ], e$ n# g! S- H Chapter 8 Yarn Processing and Construction/纱线制造与结构 84, \- V5 ?+ C% }- ~* S* _
8.1 Spun yarns/短纤纱 85
0 T; b, x8 }; ?2 l0 S 8.2 Filament yarns/长丝纱 85
1 o; \3 }5 T) X7 N 8.3 Methods of yarn processing/纺纱方法 85
2 f6 f, y1 E9 Q6 n! X# \7 l 8.3.1 Ring-spinning/环锭纺 860 F& W$ S& o) @3 Z9 E: i
8.3.2 New methods of yarn processing/新型纺纱方法 86, {# X0 {% F' c Q$ f1 ?/ g, T# p
8.4 Single and ply yarns/单纱和股线 896 r! D" h1 _; E% Y! {
8.5 Special types of yarn/特种纱线 90 s/ T! A. T. K2 N5 I
8.5.1 Fancy yarns/花式纱 90
" E6 h4 \8 x3 Z5 C" F& P$ u: p @( J 8.5.2 Stretch yarns/弹力纱 91. O' ?5 g- T; B8 f7 z9 ^, X
8.5.3 Textured yarns 变形纱线 91
) {/ ~- |. R1 p6 M 8.6 Blends and mixtures yarns/纱线混纺与混用 92% x ^* c$ O# U9 D& \
Questions/思考题 938 c, r6 M5 n( S9 k D
Chapter 9 Yarn Properties/纱线性能 947 L n1 i- O z1 F1 }$ C
9.1 Yarn number/纱线细度 946 I0 Z5 t2 q- S: N' k3 I b, T
9.1.1 Denier system/旦数 94
" p+ d5 ^; u! V2 Z 9.1.2 Yarn count system/纱线英制支数 94
1 [; a: u- u& l: ~& x. j" \; N5 C 9.1.3 Tex system/线密度 95
2 c6 f. Z4 R" j 9.1.4 Metric numbering system/公制支数 95
$ |6 `: r8 a& _ 9.1.5 Conversion in different systems/不同系统之间的换算 95; i/ z# M5 V3 w& D5 F0 Y0 L
9.2 Ply yarn counts and singles equivalent/股线支数与单纱支数 95/ c* l% G0 L4 ?- B
9.3 Yarn twist/纱线捻度 96& M h; }4 K1 C- [, y5 I6 g
9.4 Yarn hairiness/纱线毛羽 97! G* |# r$ t" _* O3 s
9.4.1 Hairiness test method/毛羽测试方法 98
) A. Q6 o; p' r$ L4 B+ S. {( A 9.4.2 Factors affecting hairiness/影响毛羽的因素 98( c/ @. R/ s' }; f+ c% K. _
9.5 Yarn unevenness/纱线不匀 99$ W& i1 v; ]7 D; M4 S3 M
9.5.1 Test of yarn unevenness/纱线不匀的测试 994 p! a- e6 E, l# l# l
9.5.2 Reasons for yarn unevenness/纱线不匀的原因 100
* v) U( p* G/ ] 9.6 Classification of yarn quality/纱线质量分析 100
& h) J5 m1 r5 D/ F0 L Questions/思考题 1005 c) R1 o0 J) b4 u& i/ Y- u/ u
Part Ⅳ Textile Fabrics/织物 1021 F2 y# ~8 ?# o
Chapter 10 Woven Fabrics/机织物 102
/ S6 ~( H( K2 U# H" h 10.1 Making woven fabrics/织制机织物 102
+ s8 o' [. y3 L 10.1.1 The loom/织机 102- B4 E t% P" Y% ], f& } E+ I% b
10.1.2 Loom type/织机类型 104+ l2 {" b1 }5 t: V: e0 S
10.1.3 Loom motions/织机运动 104, w( y) \1 r6 X0 `5 S' @, C# }2 s
10.1.4 Electronics in weaving/电子技术在织机中的应用 105
, x4 ?5 a$ |3 R( r) ]0 y 10.1.5 The selvage/布边 105
: a8 m5 t# r; k! W. Q; [: k 10.2 Warp yarns and filling yarns/经纱和纬纱 105
% H4 i2 n) q7 p( x( Z 10.2.1 Identification/鉴别 1062 `$ k+ j. i) ]3 m
10.3 Face and back/正面与反面 106% W7 J/ b9 u4 u; U- Y k% _
10.3.1 Reasons for differenee/存在差异的原因 107
1 b% m% P7 h6 M. h* ^, n( Y+ }2 Z6 T 10.3.2 Caution/应用的要点 107# l# i+ ?$ a: g$ \
10.4 Top and bottom/顶端和底端 107) K5 Y4 R6 [4 n9 B
10.4.1 Reasons for difference/存在差异的原因 107
6 u. |) s! j0 C5 U/ M8 H 10.5 Weave floats/组织浮线 108
" |8 q. P. J( T& [ 10.6 Basic weaves/基本组织 108
9 _* N# Y. q9 x3 P; i u! H( S 10.6.1 Plain weave/平纹组织 1085 t& ~8 {3 w K/ F+ z9 G. u& G3 P# H6 A
10.6.2 Twill weave/斜纹组织 109
3 e u& y( t2 M) ^, H: t% z 10.6.3 Satin weave/缎纹组织 111# Z0 J7 a& O8 [3 a
10.7 Fabric performance and characteristics/织物性能和参数 112
1 O. ^/ V& n; Y) K, z P/ ` 10.7.1 Fabric width/幅宽 112
5 B7 ]: D. x$ m4 V" n' ?$ Z 10.7.2 Fabric weight/织物重量 112* Z0 u! }, s0 t4 w* H. `& G3 k! ]( e
10.7.3 Fabric thickness/织物厚度 113
: T) ` {: ?9 g$ Q& S% A/ } 10.7.4 Fabric density/织物密度 113
# V, K: \7 j7 }% w0 _2 `4 O* H 10.7.5 Fabric count/织物经纬密度 113
. D9 a( n+ b& k 10.7.6 Fabric defects/织物疵点 113
* Z- w6 l( d5 A* k Questions/思考题 113& m$ Y( e+ X/ t- X
Chapter 11 Knitted Fabrics/针织物 114$ r L1 o( N5 Y" [/ `
11.1 Making of knitted fabric/针织物形成 1146 o G2 t% Q8 t; X w/ J
11.1.1 The forming of knitted stitches/线圈的形成 114# I! N- \$ }" j7 m: _
11.1.2 Types of knitted stitches/线圈的种类 116
( }, |6 M" r! _ 11.2 Weft knits/纬编针织物 117" B* f( X! I8 H$ H
11.2.1 Jersey knit fabric/纬平针织物 117
. _3 ~/ \ \2 A. o8 Q! @ 11.2.2 Rib knit fabric/罗纹针织物 118
% B: Q+ }! }4 n( W) I7 G/ U 11.2.3 Purl knit fabric/双反面针织物 1193 z$ E) x! [1 @0 W4 w8 d
11.2.4 Double knits/双面针织物 120
% H3 ?" N/ \. p2 v: _3 `$ { 11.2.5 Full-fashioned knits/全成形针织物 1201 J/ k, W6 z' ^# \: B
11.3 Warp knits/经编针织物 121
0 n# n! c7 E4 C: L5 T8 Z 11.3.1 Tricot fabrics/特里科经编针织物 121
/ j: I; B( E' C. ^. R P1 B) T8 x 11.3.2 Raschel fabrics/拉舍尔经编针织物 122# P, N$ Q. f/ S& n2 w% \
11.4 Performance and characteristics/性能和参数 122
" N. F. i" A6 F5 z& K Questions/思考题 123
9 A& q; N7 W. e' r9 [- B Chapter 12 Nonwoven Fabrics/非织造布 124
" X5 [0 L/ W/ L7 d 12.1 Introduction/导论 124" B, \! [* X& a2 L# H" Z( B# O4 K
12.2 Manufacturing methods/生产方法 125+ d1 d; d! U6 q' R7 u3 _7 ]
12.2.1 Dry laid system/干法成网 125
1 {6 P; V5 Q' t4 z; S 12.2.2 Wet laid system/湿法成网 125
+ _) w. {+ J# D6 j8 @. S( P! \3 x 12.2.3 Polymer laid system/聚合物挤压法 125
8 b! P7 H" e6 h8 O* r 12.3 Various nonwovens/各种非织造布 125. F; g- [. Z) {
12.3.1 Needle punched nonwovens/针刺法非织造布 125
' R3 P4 X' p, t" M" \8 Y- ]9 X @ 12.3.2 Bonded web nonwovens/黏合法非织造布 126% S& Q9 H- N; s5 U, n
12.3.3 Spunlaced nonwovens/射流喷网法非织造布 127
I) ?0 G. s( F( Y# t7 | 12.3.4 Spunbonded nonwovens/纺粘法非织造布 128
' C0 E( g" n/ C8 `6 r 12.3.5 Melt-blown nonwovens/熔喷法非织造布 129, u% d0 c7 F# D& s/ c
Questions/思考题 129. ]$ O: r6 ~& L3 x
Part Ⅴ Textile Testing/纺织品测试 130
1 Z: a r" Q. {, C! I Chapter 13 General Test Methods/常规测试方法 1304 q0 i9 h: `1 ?1 j& F! ] N4 J
13.1 General fiber tests/纤维常规测试 130
1 I$ r; X- f2 d 13.1.1 Fiber identification/纤维鉴别 130
6 d& J2 D" M. \/ Q$ `( }9 s s 13.1.2 Fiber length/纤维长度 1345 ?9 c3 d: r6 E2 I9 v1 y. ]
13.1.3 Fiber fineness or linear density/纤维细度或线密度 135
3 t# D* v; I6 }3 V1 N( }5 R 13.1.4 Cross-sectional shape/截面形状 135
" q& o0 n9 f$ k/ N* a# C 13.1.5 Crimp/卷曲 135
7 ?# x1 |4 V) S& H! D+ ^ 13.1.6 Regain/回潮率 1365 i: P D/ @1 R3 i" X1 a' @! H6 {! W
13.1.7 Mechanical properties/机械性能 136
# Y! h" k) \) Z1 T" b4 i$ g 13.1.8 Chemical characteristics/化学性能 136' h g: B9 q/ q- j( t* t
13.1.9 Surface characteristics/表面性能 1364 X$ \- c, q$ J6 Q M
13.1.10 Density and specific gravity/密度和相对密度 137, c7 l* k7 ~% e D1 z5 W9 q
13.2 Special tests for natural fibers/天然纤维的测试 1371 a4 ^2 D7 l, \3 G8 S
13.2.1 Tests for cotton/棉纤维测试 137( W0 G2 v; W% d) Q2 C$ f8 q1 ~
13.2.2 Tests for wool/毛纤维测试 139
/ ~( y- p8 }/ e2 b7 J 13.3 Testing of tensile properties/拉伸性能测试 140. R2 c$ j$ w* F6 S- F( Y
13.3.1 Description of tensile proprieties/拉伸性能的描述 141
: C/ q7 M7 F0 \6 L5 ^+ M 13.3.2 Fiber and yarn tensile testing/纤维和纱线拉伸性能的测试 146
' o2 s9 L' d4 Z! u 13.3.3 Fabric tensile testing/织物拉伸性能测试方法 147
8 A3 ~" z" `6 [5 \! \3 X+ U Questions/思考题 149
: `+ c- E4 O; v b4 o- B Chapter 14 Fabric Abrasion and Pilling/织物磨损与起球 150
. y* `8 m( l' I% P& D- d6 o, Q 14.1 Types of abrasion/磨损的类型 1509 K. o4 F! h4 O! j; T9 a
14.1.1 Abrasion between fabrics/织物间的磨损 1505 T2 ^) e5 B7 @! W! H
14.1.2 Abrasion between fabric and a nontextile surface/织物与非纤维制品表面磨损 150, K) c6 z# J7 x; G9 h
14.1.3 Abrasion within fabric/织物内部磨损 151
9 H1 }+ k3 @/ t$ N: I- b) w- M 14.1.4 Abrasion by foreign materials within the fabric/与织物内部其他材料的磨损 151/ i0 K; J2 F0 }; M2 L
14.2 Factors affecting fabric abrasion resistance/影响耐磨性能的因素 151
F/ @0 o- u& ^/ V5 I; S% c 14.2.1 Fabric properties/织物性能 151( s0 Z) M: n# N7 u
14.2.2 Other factors/其他因素 153
: [$ A* }9 X9 U9 @ 14.3 Abrasion testing/磨损测试 154
1 b9 Q5 ~4 x+ b, f 14.3.1 Visual comparison with an unabraded specimen/与未磨损样品视觉对比 154
3 ]1 G9 W: R7 ` 14.3.2 Number of cycles to produce a hole/产生磨损破洞需要的摩擦圈数 154
6 w4 L. W. x0 W' X3 L 14.3.3 Change in a physical property/物理性能的变化 154; |- ^" ]& e0 k+ |' A( h3 ?( T
14.3.4 Microscopic examination/显微镜观测 155
& p: @& {: |8 K8 u& | 14.4 Aesthetics of abrasion and wear/穿着和磨损对美感的影响 155* b0 r+ E5 x- N# i' r
14.4.1 Color changes caused by abrasion/磨损引起的颜色变化 155; N* v, B1 t9 e' C# a. \ I
14.4.2 Pilling/起球 156
|6 M, U( r0 @+ N& J Questions/思考题 157' S- l2 d$ j8 O8 l! a
Chapter 15 Fabric Hand and Drape/织物手感与悬垂 158
: W+ g9 c, R# j; C2 y 15.1 Fabric hand/织物手感 158
; {6 Y* T. i5 R. L: @ 15.2 Fabric drape/织物悬垂 159
& I$ H- [# z1 e. S0 \6 U 15.3 Measurement of hand and drape/手感与悬垂的评价 1619 `( H! o8 s" W2 {7 b
15.3.1 Subjective evaluation/主观评定法 161
7 u3 C; C+ a3 z/ [+ f 15.3.2 Quantitative measurement/定量评定法 1625 d8 ]" x. v6 c. x# h' O! j
15.3.3 Kawabata evaluation system/KES评定法 163
# }: n; e) P- B1 x" z& v* n Questions/思考题 1639 \; u$ H3 A1 r
Chapter 16 Fabric Colorfastness/织物染色牢度 164# C6 @. w: Z1 B/ J f- P; F9 \& V
16.1 Evaluation of color and colorfastness/颜色和染色牢度评定方法 1640 m' f$ y& o% _( A
16.2 Colorfastness tests/染色牢度测试 164
, r9 q6 O& g# Q7 } 16.2.1 Colorfastness to crocking/耐摩擦色牢度 164
! U" v+ P9 m- B- @) l 16.2.2 Colorfastness to laundering and bleaching/耐洗涤和耐漂白色牢 165
7 u1 h7 v. y4 a! {" K, G 16.2.3 Colorfastness to drycleaning/耐干洗色牢度 1665 n( A* b1 _" a3 @; Q; r
16.2.4 Colorfastness to perspiration/耐汗渍色牢度 166
9 Z( l# H" U& F: H0 ` 16.2.5 Colorfastness to water/耐水浸色牢度 166; }* {# v) K* p: u
16.2.6 Colorfastness to light/耐光照色牢度 167
# U+ A; g9 x6 \, x6 \ 16.2.7 Colorfastness to atmospheric contaminants/耐空气污染色牢度 168( W+ w; G$ d2 e& ~
Questions/思考题 168
9 e$ E- O1 g3 w1 B6 C7 U Chapter 17 Fabric Flammability/织物可燃性 169
6 R: B6 y+ t; C- X2 z+ @ 17.1 Flammability standards/可燃性标准 1697 x2 z( J# L7 a9 n( C
17.2 Properties affecting flammability/影响可燃性的因素 169
+ R' h3 n/ P: q% n. w8 f 17.3 Flammability testing/可燃性测试 171$ K( Z' l( F6 O
17.3.1 Forty-five degree angle test/45°燃烧测试法 171 d2 G' S: O/ d4 O0 m/ O2 i
17.3.2 Vertical flame tests/垂直燃烧测试法 172
4 x3 ~! \; Q! f6 N3 Y; d$ X+ Z- i 17.3.3 Carpet testing/地毯测试 172
) B+ F- N: r, k& o3 |2 q* m0 W 17.3.4 Cigarette tests/卷烟点燃测试 172; Q/ c. q9 j) V6 y
17.3.5 Other standard flammability tests/其他可燃性测试 173
( Q! Q; G1 k+ d Questions/思考题 173: h) y% ^0 R" }
Chapter 18 Comfort of Textiles/纺织品舒适性 174) s4 }; @0 c4 S7 [- m) l
18.1 Physical phenomena affecting thermal comfort/影响热舒适性能的物理现象 174 _2 F7 f0 b+ F- o% q/ R
18.1.1 Heat transfer/热传递 174
, K2 T0 |2 M8 `5 h) R3 U7 c 18.1.2 Moisture transfer/湿传递 175$ G% s% v3 n# Y, G) A/ V3 o
18.1.3 Water resistance/抗水性 1753 B0 d7 c/ l% o8 L3 I: ~! c
18.1.4 Air transfer/透气性 176
! a- D6 ]5 R I i. G4 i6 g 18.1.5 Porosity and cover factor/多孔性和覆盖系数 176
9 W. u7 @* e( n6 \1 J/ S( X 18.1.6 Electrostatic propensity/静电 177
5 Q- T' M) e& ~, d 18.2 Evaluations of textile properties related to comfort/与舒适性相关的纺织品性能评价 177
1 b/ g( d* m8 X1 g" A 18.2.1 Heat transfer/热传递 178- A9 V" S# g3 I e: V* C5 R9 A1 Y
18.2.2 Moisture properties/湿传递性能 179
3 K3 \% t8 |7 B2 U2 k1 V4 R' g 18.2.3 Air permeability/透气性 179- X% b$ a! l" [- z! U0 U
18.2.4 Porosity/孔隙率 180
/ G; X e, n3 F4 A4 F 18.2.5 Electrostatic tests/静电测试 180' K+ S4 R0 A1 M. s2 n* y
Questions/思考题 180
8 K. M- t* X2 S6 F- |Appendix/附录 181
( ?: v9 n- c' Z2 }( ] AATCC:AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS/美国纺织化学家与染色家协会 181
5 V% x* h0 O8 g5 `) s6 h ASTM:AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR TESTING AND MATERIALS/美国材料试验学会 1846 b! w2 f" ]' n, O9 @+ \
Vocabulary/词汇表 189
3 J# U' n+ I7 xReferences/参考文献 197
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