
纺织材料学(双语教材),刘妍,熊磊,PDF。普通高等教育“十一五”国家级规划教材(本科),纺织工程专业双语教材,电子目录,14M。
9 M8 G9 |( N! ^3 f( Y$ k9 ^1 J: w, Z* [- k9 l: d
内容提要7 |7 ?4 u( K( O; V+ d
本书讨论了纤维、纱线与织物(包括机织物、针织物及非织造布)的结构、机械性能、物理性能及使用性能。涉及的纤维势括天然纤维(如棉、毛、麻、丝等)、传统化学纤维及新型化学纤维。本书同时介绍了纤维、纱线和织物的各种标准测试方法(包括国际上常用的ASTM, AATCC及GB等方法),并讨论了与各种测试方法有关的测试原理及对测试结果的影响因素。
- B$ H) I% @; E0 }1 B本书可供高等纺织院校纺织、服装相关专业的本科生及研究生作为《纺织材料学》的双语教材或专业英语教材,也可供其他专业师生、纺织贸易专业人员和科研及生产单位的技术人员参考。$ u, k/ x; ~" T. e: O# S& ^3 E
目录# f# l4 ~8 [0 A) L' y2 P
Part Ⅰ An Introduction to Textiles/纺织入门 18
7 z; d. g F# y Chapter 1 Introduction/介绍 181 M5 t, p4 V! J' p) [! L) p5 L
1.1 ASTM Standard Terminology Relating to Textiles/ASTM纺织标准术语 18
9 A6 v" \) t% g* e$ j) `! ] 1.2 Fiber history/纤维历史 264 F; j8 H( }; i* w
1.2.1 Natural fibers/天然纤维 26
0 i' [$ k2 H% l0 q: c' v( Z$ ~, t! i 1.2.2 Man-made fibers/化学纤维 27
! w" q3 p" m3 U5 D" P$ G Questions/思考题 30+ M8 _9 X8 n& X/ j( O
Part Ⅱ Textile Fibers/纺织纤维 32$ ]1 j7 @. U6 Z% b
Chapter 2 Natural Cellulosic Fibers/天然纤维素纤维 327 v! s% `. N" d( V0 o* l
2.1 Cotton/棉 33
% H& u, P8 ]9 V; I5 ? 2.1.1 Nature of cotton/棉花的种类 33( p6 N- B, U8 ~" y4 D
2.1.2 Classification/分类 34
, c! N6 E- J% O 2.1.3 Growth and structure of cotton/棉纤维的生长与结构 34+ D% X. p) n* V! Z& Y
2.1.4 Maturity/成熟度 36
- |! i4 T, N* H6 T3 g7 t+ z2 Q2 J- Z 2.1.5 Cotton properties/棉纤维的性能 387 P9 B! w/ I, V, _: c; `" N- S5 j2 e- A
2.1.6 Cotton classification/棉花分级 39
9 F2 @% ~' x2 |. x 2.2 Bast fibers/韧皮纤维 40. B5 f. p8 P1 F0 f r6 Q4 J
2.2.1 Flax (linen)/亚麻,亚麻织物 414 h. z$ T( `8 t+ b" z: X9 ~! E$ U& I
2.2.2 Ramie/苎麻 43: ` j* r- Y1 u! S$ `$ \
2.2.3 Hemp/汉麻 44
8 @( N9 Y% z/ p5 e5 M8 B 2.2.4 Jute/黄麻 44
$ n0 ?) F- Z6 Y2 h Z3 X( o Questions/思考题 45
& q0 k% `9 J. x- B" Y; K8 t+ q+ J Chapter 3 Natural Protein Fibers/天然蛋白质纤维 46
: t# B, X' l r$ Y4 B: h# i 3.1 Wool/绵羊毛 46% H; p. N1 c f0 u0 n5 r' S7 }
3.1.1 Wool production and history/羊毛生产和历史 46; P9 H+ u" d, H0 J, i7 t+ n' k: O
3.1.2 Wool grading/羊毛分级 47# B) |. @5 N2 D6 h. R9 S
3.1.3 Wool structure/羊毛结构 477 h( u- f& B: K/ ?4 u0 `; K3 S
3.1.4 Wool properties/羊毛性能 48
# G5 n9 L; e" A8 A4 P7 P 3.2 Specialty animal fibers/特种动物毛 51 ~, Y) B$ ~! X: b5 d
3.3 Silk/丝 52
1 E, ?2 O/ }0 M/ T+ G( M% O Questions/思考题 54, O$ i5 g$ T# m/ ^; } N, ?
Chapter 4 Man-made Fibers/化学纤维 55. ~# a C2 d# @9 }# d1 G+ b
4.1 Manufacturing processing of fiber/纤维生产工艺 55
9 w' s9 }3 r+ M, g5 b 4.1.1 Wet spinning/湿法纺丝 56* r+ j) S$ K5 z' F% ~ v5 r
4.1.2 Dry spinning/干法纺丝 56
. Q: D1 g" b! C9 `3 Y 4.1.3 Melt spinning/熔体法纺丝 56: K4 j4 V" z* w1 t' F6 J
4.1.4 Gel spinning/凝胶纺丝 57
+ t) W4 P$ D8 G# n8 y, S4 N 4.2 Regenerated fibers/再生纤维 57
( R( g* I5 ^ G { 4.2.1 Acetate/醋酯纤维 57/ B: ]3 J8 f) p4 z1 `" m/ K
4.2.2 Triacetate/三醋酯纤维 592 J: O' ]* p& q. a; e2 ?: k6 B
4.2.3 Viscose fibers/粘胶纤维 59+ E+ W& E8 [3 a
4.3 Synthetic fibers/合成纤维 60
1 L I' L, Z# }: H7 _ 4.3.1 Acrylic/腈纶 60
3 n6 i. L3 v9 G7 l 4.3.2 Modacrylic/改性腈纶 61" l) ?7 T4 A/ ` |
4.3.3 Nylon/锦纶 61
8 f$ F. Z2 w: ?- \ \! v 4.3.4 Polyester/涤纶 62
1 I5 c/ ^3 g" y1 M6 a3 [4 I 4.3.5 PBI/聚苯并咪唑纤维 63
8 q' c1 Z& T" v; i# m" r 4.3.6 Vinal/聚乙烯醇纤维 638 j5 R& m# S$ z( ]7 F2 f/ ^! v8 C
4.3.7 Olefin/聚烯烃纤维 63
* v" V7 _& W. Y( T) O0 S/ e0 x 4.3.8 Aramid/芳纶 64$ g# r2 h" G( X" _
4.3.9 Lycra/莱卡 640 [( r* n' H L( s) x' ~1 z, J
4.4 Other man-made fibers/其他化学纤维 66, ?9 ^! v4 a1 h+ E
4.4.1 Glass/玻璃纤维 66: l4 `' X, p! @* [0 N
4.4.2 Metallic/金属纤维 670 i6 }6 X) x7 |- W2 r$ I }
Questions/思考题 67
, V m; M$ G, K1 J. n1 B6 P% [ Chapter 5 New Fibers/新型纤维 681 [! q L( m& z5 L! U
5.1 Carbon fibers/碳纤维 68
4 c% v+ m7 ?" i% d a" x 5.2 Fluorocarbon/氟碳纤维 68$ r& r5 L# O" q2 B- ]( U7 b
5.3 Lyocell fibers(Tencel)/莱塞尔纤维 68
- _- v" ?5 \) H B9 A# h 5.4 High-wet-modulus fibers/高湿模量纤维 69# j" t! |1 e( z1 n
5.4.1 Modal fibers/莫代尔纤维 69
0 M3 d( U& C2 O- y; p 5.4.2 Richcel/丽赛纤维 70
: P7 M: _2 C- H- f0 p 5.5 Soybean protein composite fibers/大豆蛋白复合纤维 70
$ I- u, _( \3 q" a- L 5.6 PLA fiber/聚左旋乳酸纤维 71
6 G6 T' U; j& }2 z& n5 }& p 5.7 Heterogenous fibers/复合纤维 71; ^% H1 `$ q9 F1 s& A7 p0 a
5.7.1 Bicomponent or multicomponent/双组分或多组分 72& R* ]1 D5 h" @9 a2 k! E% H
5.7.2 Biconstituent or multiconstituent/双成分或多成分 73
/ e; f$ v2 Q2 d3 t. O5 D7 F' Z4 l5 x 5.7.3 Matrix or matrix-fibril/基质型纤维 73
, x) e4 d9 b; }/ Y 5.8 Differential fibers/差别化纤维 74
7 p' e, n5 k# L 5.9 Functional fibers/功能性纤维 741 e+ R0 Z) X; V' F7 f# R& E7 W( C
5.10 High performance fibers/高性能纤维 74
$ [! m, U' V9 ^6 d: G Questions/思考题 74; A6 O- e" A' n6 _$ `6 k
Chapter 6 The Property of Absorbing Moisture/吸湿性 75
" W3 `0 G9 A, I& Q) J 6.1 Orientation and crystallization/取向与结晶 752 o K z( V0 @
6.2 Moisture sorption/吸湿性 75
4 @: c4 E# v9 y& a" k" o1 R 6.2.1 Regain and moisture content/回潮率与含水率 757 o3 U- i, g3 }* a q5 ~6 [
6.2.2 Relation between regain and relative humidity/回潮率与相对湿度的关系 75
- ?! X# M1 {4 ~ 6.2.3 Comparison of various materials/不同材料吸湿性的对比 761 z/ j( Y8 x: ? b, y) q% b
6.2.4 Theories of moisture sorption/吸湿理论 78
' t/ e" q, L9 m0 K. k* k( W Questions/思考题 80
' w& E$ U( n$ t& @: u) q6 x6 R Chapter 7 Other Physical Properties of Textile Fibers/纤维的其他物理性能 819 w) N2 g4 G7 Q2 a) y3 Q- T
7.1 Electronic properties/电学性能 81
0 L! w' O/ V2 B; `+ ]2 Y 7.1.1 Definitions/定义 81
4 v; f" [8 e K: ]. l N3 A 7.2 Optical properties/光学性能 82
" ]" ?0 V4 A* Y( J 7.3 Thermal properties/热学性能 83% ~7 v9 _, j* n% S2 @
7.3.1 Thermal parameters/热力学参数 83
! W* m6 R2 y3 M( T& r4 o3 _* H 7.3.2 A comparison of temperature effects/温度效应比较 83
/ n# L( V' M( o' Q5 G6 c( V2 l Questions/思考题 83' R( S1 ~3 Q; |( t
Part Ⅲ Textile Yarns/纺织纱线 84
4 k( E( E0 Z H. W* Q Chapter 8 Yarn Processing and Construction/纱线制造与结构 84
1 i) Z& H8 h) e1 i 8.1 Spun yarns/短纤纱 850 }: r0 D9 n0 q9 }% L
8.2 Filament yarns/长丝纱 85' Z- H" C$ `, T& o' M/ }
8.3 Methods of yarn processing/纺纱方法 85% k. b, F1 X, Y& ]
8.3.1 Ring-spinning/环锭纺 866 R* [+ p$ i# x8 i2 m
8.3.2 New methods of yarn processing/新型纺纱方法 86
3 ~* \: B0 a7 |4 ] 8.4 Single and ply yarns/单纱和股线 894 S% Y; K/ I3 D6 [" B B) s
8.5 Special types of yarn/特种纱线 905 F' R0 y; e. T% n- g4 s
8.5.1 Fancy yarns/花式纱 90
2 g! G. z4 `- j( Q( L% v) J% ^* K9 e 8.5.2 Stretch yarns/弹力纱 91
, l/ f" u, U2 w: E4 q3 Y 8.5.3 Textured yarns 变形纱线 91
% l0 o z4 R; S0 Z, L+ a2 N& B 8.6 Blends and mixtures yarns/纱线混纺与混用 92
" m5 a5 O' ^; y" K, G! V! Q Questions/思考题 93. Q! l7 w' O: \, V
Chapter 9 Yarn Properties/纱线性能 94+ f% `- i# B; v
9.1 Yarn number/纱线细度 94
; {: x& s: J9 Y/ k9 z @" q$ K 9.1.1 Denier system/旦数 94
+ N, i' i m/ a2 Z M3 Y 9.1.2 Yarn count system/纱线英制支数 94% x! C" M. R2 |6 y" c( J
9.1.3 Tex system/线密度 95- ?9 n3 w' [# q. Q
9.1.4 Metric numbering system/公制支数 95, T9 t, k. O/ k) _; G' z2 I# e
9.1.5 Conversion in different systems/不同系统之间的换算 959 K5 I7 B1 `0 E5 j5 Q$ F w9 I
9.2 Ply yarn counts and singles equivalent/股线支数与单纱支数 954 Z* Z% g, k. v; X+ g
9.3 Yarn twist/纱线捻度 96
6 z. Q7 s4 Q8 D 9.4 Yarn hairiness/纱线毛羽 97
# U6 a" ^0 }! ? x 9.4.1 Hairiness test method/毛羽测试方法 98# k' t9 M0 i, L' n9 m- T
9.4.2 Factors affecting hairiness/影响毛羽的因素 98( t7 f, v- N `! F
9.5 Yarn unevenness/纱线不匀 99$ X& |7 {# o0 s( b4 H) a \3 Q( U
9.5.1 Test of yarn unevenness/纱线不匀的测试 99
/ `* @6 E3 Q) V7 y6 h# u6 U) V* Z; K 9.5.2 Reasons for yarn unevenness/纱线不匀的原因 100* |0 W6 R6 F+ s; d3 l
9.6 Classification of yarn quality/纱线质量分析 100
8 G6 Q, b# u" t |4 J" n% { Questions/思考题 100
! v v8 Y$ d9 s9 vPart Ⅳ Textile Fabrics/织物 1021 [; \& x5 r4 T' ~# G+ F1 m
Chapter 10 Woven Fabrics/机织物 1025 r! A, ?7 m9 c* p; U
10.1 Making woven fabrics/织制机织物 102
8 H+ o1 z0 T6 T 10.1.1 The loom/织机 102
4 f5 G! g+ g4 z# j. E+ r4 G 10.1.2 Loom type/织机类型 104
8 A* b$ K' S) A2 N7 ?! z/ t4 @ 10.1.3 Loom motions/织机运动 1048 f I8 Y4 r5 L5 |0 a
10.1.4 Electronics in weaving/电子技术在织机中的应用 1050 U+ K/ }. G4 ^' g1 |$ W3 m& y- {& Z
10.1.5 The selvage/布边 105
. X6 t- Y( O+ t6 V& C* X5 P" @ 10.2 Warp yarns and filling yarns/经纱和纬纱 105
$ m% Z$ g4 }8 T 10.2.1 Identification/鉴别 1063 p! d% G8 [; X2 C( D7 L" h0 I
10.3 Face and back/正面与反面 106- f4 l0 C* a G: `! v5 w
10.3.1 Reasons for differenee/存在差异的原因 107
( i5 _# p9 R( G. N+ D- L' Y' ^ 10.3.2 Caution/应用的要点 107
1 a" n4 n; {- G5 V 10.4 Top and bottom/顶端和底端 107, e# H& W& m. i# {, S
10.4.1 Reasons for difference/存在差异的原因 107
/ C! |& q6 G4 j. U 10.5 Weave floats/组织浮线 108
) M5 N1 `* g9 M( D/ r 10.6 Basic weaves/基本组织 108# O$ t' R; E& d$ u
10.6.1 Plain weave/平纹组织 108
0 ]8 F) h% W% j7 X 10.6.2 Twill weave/斜纹组织 109& ^6 Y3 l# c& {. H4 R$ B) J, I
10.6.3 Satin weave/缎纹组织 111
7 L/ O5 O( P+ @* H" ?- A 10.7 Fabric performance and characteristics/织物性能和参数 112
5 F5 T9 V+ W+ }. r2 z+ d2 E0 P% |5 K$ b; D 10.7.1 Fabric width/幅宽 112* Z/ y# x4 M8 ^' p7 Y2 P3 l
10.7.2 Fabric weight/织物重量 112
/ y3 q. h. g0 R" G! Q8 L 10.7.3 Fabric thickness/织物厚度 113+ }/ X" C) A2 i3 c8 E4 Z4 j9 A
10.7.4 Fabric density/织物密度 113$ I( ?- s$ _7 N2 H# m! |
10.7.5 Fabric count/织物经纬密度 113
' J+ z3 [* X4 e 10.7.6 Fabric defects/织物疵点 113
' E+ r/ ?" A/ v2 R Questions/思考题 113
. |1 M% S8 `; Z4 p9 Z4 k Chapter 11 Knitted Fabrics/针织物 114
! e2 v: o. V" |) b4 z+ y5 R g/ H6 M 11.1 Making of knitted fabric/针织物形成 1149 t D( K( O7 r8 d8 B8 i8 x
11.1.1 The forming of knitted stitches/线圈的形成 114
+ h& C5 `- E1 J; z' Q. H 11.1.2 Types of knitted stitches/线圈的种类 116
! F {; X4 N( q 11.2 Weft knits/纬编针织物 117# x% t8 Y( E3 G& H, K3 B# x7 z7 k
11.2.1 Jersey knit fabric/纬平针织物 117
4 q+ l8 k2 V9 Z9 t# W; C; Z 11.2.2 Rib knit fabric/罗纹针织物 1184 q. m- P n0 P1 S5 w
11.2.3 Purl knit fabric/双反面针织物 119
! n. P: d, ?3 l% U I, C 11.2.4 Double knits/双面针织物 120& L% p9 F9 X/ x; |* }3 u
11.2.5 Full-fashioned knits/全成形针织物 120
4 W' v, N+ m! A 11.3 Warp knits/经编针织物 1217 K2 O2 q& u q5 X; w6 o
11.3.1 Tricot fabrics/特里科经编针织物 121
& _/ L6 {# ?) b! J7 Z$ X) E% T 11.3.2 Raschel fabrics/拉舍尔经编针织物 122. O3 m# b9 f8 t0 q! u4 A! A
11.4 Performance and characteristics/性能和参数 122$ [! E/ r: T, Y; p+ S6 n
Questions/思考题 123
1 n( Y( \* K& E' u Chapter 12 Nonwoven Fabrics/非织造布 1248 S; ]. i" _6 @5 y6 o- B" s2 v2 F
12.1 Introduction/导论 124! {' s. D7 c/ E4 t% Y1 D( ]/ \7 B
12.2 Manufacturing methods/生产方法 125
1 i' n. D7 S- ~* z$ f, c3 ^ 12.2.1 Dry laid system/干法成网 125
1 x, d& N! M0 b, W, ^. f 12.2.2 Wet laid system/湿法成网 125
/ M& b# d z/ C9 Z. D K* [ 12.2.3 Polymer laid system/聚合物挤压法 125
4 ]7 f& |5 |8 N2 N1 `) v( c 12.3 Various nonwovens/各种非织造布 125
# Y0 Q+ h9 I) A) J; H 12.3.1 Needle punched nonwovens/针刺法非织造布 125
( s- X0 ~# @6 W8 X( P 12.3.2 Bonded web nonwovens/黏合法非织造布 1268 m Y* E1 x; }; ]7 B4 _4 q
12.3.3 Spunlaced nonwovens/射流喷网法非织造布 127
5 S7 S$ s& [' E0 m0 h- N 12.3.4 Spunbonded nonwovens/纺粘法非织造布 1281 e! U. q3 ?: {) S+ A
12.3.5 Melt-blown nonwovens/熔喷法非织造布 129
) Y' K7 v' s+ M% R9 E$ v2 k2 B Questions/思考题 1297 g: V$ _( K8 U; D- I6 v
Part Ⅴ Textile Testing/纺织品测试 130
% u) D' U! S) K) C" d! J) m. f Chapter 13 General Test Methods/常规测试方法 130- C% c2 V/ ^, H4 l
13.1 General fiber tests/纤维常规测试 130
8 ]& Q. |: U2 } 13.1.1 Fiber identification/纤维鉴别 130
( S9 Z1 b T& Y5 o- N- r 13.1.2 Fiber length/纤维长度 134
; g) w' v# X/ k* I! l 13.1.3 Fiber fineness or linear density/纤维细度或线密度 135/ t9 h7 M! E& Z; c
13.1.4 Cross-sectional shape/截面形状 135% c2 m( P0 y% e: Y# D
13.1.5 Crimp/卷曲 135
- X( L2 m# r5 u @0 \4 X 13.1.6 Regain/回潮率 136' f1 N9 d1 V! p# q9 H3 J& S6 M; ~
13.1.7 Mechanical properties/机械性能 136$ X) U: N! E* z# g8 n# Q$ s4 h4 ?# g
13.1.8 Chemical characteristics/化学性能 136
7 q) a- y9 w% n( P% G& o 13.1.9 Surface characteristics/表面性能 136
; D" {- D! }% _- g$ C 13.1.10 Density and specific gravity/密度和相对密度 137/ g/ y6 J1 s9 Z/ s" |+ A% D3 V. c
13.2 Special tests for natural fibers/天然纤维的测试 137
0 S) f! D; B8 y5 `( { 13.2.1 Tests for cotton/棉纤维测试 1371 P1 f, G6 p% V3 e
13.2.2 Tests for wool/毛纤维测试 139
+ d8 r. w5 y1 S. Y 13.3 Testing of tensile properties/拉伸性能测试 140
) f) G+ [* ~8 z# R: y: f1 T1 x! }- i 13.3.1 Description of tensile proprieties/拉伸性能的描述 141% H* }3 I' l$ d* f$ T. ?" P
13.3.2 Fiber and yarn tensile testing/纤维和纱线拉伸性能的测试 146
$ [+ }6 G; S* Q% Y% Z 13.3.3 Fabric tensile testing/织物拉伸性能测试方法 147" v! Y$ `7 K4 H: O& T% S
Questions/思考题 149
& W2 V2 k% x5 L1 N0 w4 ~% x Chapter 14 Fabric Abrasion and Pilling/织物磨损与起球 150
2 L- l M6 h( e1 j/ r3 q 14.1 Types of abrasion/磨损的类型 150
+ Q" W0 C6 D2 ~, h( T+ h7 O! A% M1 u5 T 14.1.1 Abrasion between fabrics/织物间的磨损 1504 b& N% T6 f+ J3 P/ O3 `
14.1.2 Abrasion between fabric and a nontextile surface/织物与非纤维制品表面磨损 150' S) Z6 Q1 D; C8 K* C
14.1.3 Abrasion within fabric/织物内部磨损 151
0 y5 j: s1 o3 f! W, Z+ C6 a9 D 14.1.4 Abrasion by foreign materials within the fabric/与织物内部其他材料的磨损 1511 Q {6 a# ~* a" _5 ]2 C
14.2 Factors affecting fabric abrasion resistance/影响耐磨性能的因素 151
t- w+ C: T" b( a9 W0 n4 x 14.2.1 Fabric properties/织物性能 151
4 x+ G8 x6 {1 J0 R 14.2.2 Other factors/其他因素 153' `% D' e% B, S0 v! w) `$ G" I
14.3 Abrasion testing/磨损测试 154
. F3 i. Z' I9 V" d( d/ ~ 14.3.1 Visual comparison with an unabraded specimen/与未磨损样品视觉对比 154; `8 R/ l' z" q7 n! Z) J7 r
14.3.2 Number of cycles to produce a hole/产生磨损破洞需要的摩擦圈数 154
! R9 Z! U" p9 Y) H4 |+ { 14.3.3 Change in a physical property/物理性能的变化 1543 g: t1 f+ A' o/ Z4 r
14.3.4 Microscopic examination/显微镜观测 1557 y8 f* G, k; U* X# h" L9 z! X# s% w
14.4 Aesthetics of abrasion and wear/穿着和磨损对美感的影响 1557 @; B) F% R- T% F
14.4.1 Color changes caused by abrasion/磨损引起的颜色变化 155
& A, v1 k/ H( {' W) ]& S 14.4.2 Pilling/起球 156/ h2 N1 F4 }; j; B
Questions/思考题 1574 f/ z; m4 c( s* T
Chapter 15 Fabric Hand and Drape/织物手感与悬垂 158
/ \# q3 ?# M0 s% M) I1 Y 15.1 Fabric hand/织物手感 158
. ?' j- M& [ q9 L P2 T+ u6 s 15.2 Fabric drape/织物悬垂 159( V* ~. I! }+ Z6 t
15.3 Measurement of hand and drape/手感与悬垂的评价 161! u! [7 X: _1 Z
15.3.1 Subjective evaluation/主观评定法 161. ^! D, q, U6 \: t5 |5 A& Y
15.3.2 Quantitative measurement/定量评定法 162
" i7 J- g' V1 Q( i4 S7 R1 p 15.3.3 Kawabata evaluation system/KES评定法 163$ O. z3 g- M& `" Q0 M8 k
Questions/思考题 163% C# P0 |3 t1 C$ K: X
Chapter 16 Fabric Colorfastness/织物染色牢度 164( ]' j" d4 R* v. l3 p
16.1 Evaluation of color and colorfastness/颜色和染色牢度评定方法 164" B1 V$ N0 i. Q$ h# z
16.2 Colorfastness tests/染色牢度测试 1646 _+ B& J+ i1 L! U6 J8 `- {
16.2.1 Colorfastness to crocking/耐摩擦色牢度 164- ?) i; V! f% O) K
16.2.2 Colorfastness to laundering and bleaching/耐洗涤和耐漂白色牢 165
* C. x" `& |3 Q! R) B; P 16.2.3 Colorfastness to drycleaning/耐干洗色牢度 166
3 k) q; m2 R5 S# s" L/ q 16.2.4 Colorfastness to perspiration/耐汗渍色牢度 1665 @: S0 G9 }8 J2 F& s/ m% F8 Z6 Z ~
16.2.5 Colorfastness to water/耐水浸色牢度 166
% ?8 }3 ^) N& e* `6 v3 F 16.2.6 Colorfastness to light/耐光照色牢度 1675 G. ]+ u5 n9 O) n
16.2.7 Colorfastness to atmospheric contaminants/耐空气污染色牢度 1683 q; W# d' X5 m: p
Questions/思考题 168& _7 [! F0 g2 w7 w$ f
Chapter 17 Fabric Flammability/织物可燃性 169
5 [, I: `- L0 v2 e& D 17.1 Flammability standards/可燃性标准 169" G4 o% D9 T0 u& O
17.2 Properties affecting flammability/影响可燃性的因素 1692 b2 M3 m5 {' [0 l7 r: M" e5 p" z
17.3 Flammability testing/可燃性测试 171
! O$ }: H$ Z( D# G& z$ ?! D8 s: u, X0 y 17.3.1 Forty-five degree angle test/45°燃烧测试法 1718 |5 ^7 O2 t$ N
17.3.2 Vertical flame tests/垂直燃烧测试法 172
. y$ n* P! Q; d6 U0 M. d 17.3.3 Carpet testing/地毯测试 172
" z. Q0 q+ n6 D/ a% i& [ 17.3.4 Cigarette tests/卷烟点燃测试 172 h* I' T4 @' D
17.3.5 Other standard flammability tests/其他可燃性测试 173
9 M1 S# H- L7 ^1 R" L8 m) y+ _ Questions/思考题 173
6 S5 W9 e7 ^0 w6 ?! q( ~; { Chapter 18 Comfort of Textiles/纺织品舒适性 1748 K2 |" \0 `5 @# ?4 E
18.1 Physical phenomena affecting thermal comfort/影响热舒适性能的物理现象 174: Z! |7 ?8 B* Z* V6 c$ }
18.1.1 Heat transfer/热传递 174# z# {! [* s# F
18.1.2 Moisture transfer/湿传递 175
6 X# u- w& A. M+ q# U. f 18.1.3 Water resistance/抗水性 175
7 }1 |, M" E7 D K 18.1.4 Air transfer/透气性 176
2 }# h4 E9 Q9 V 18.1.5 Porosity and cover factor/多孔性和覆盖系数 176
3 g2 x$ d% C& x$ R5 W* M 18.1.6 Electrostatic propensity/静电 1777 g: P8 t: i( F+ j+ @* e1 p/ {% W
18.2 Evaluations of textile properties related to comfort/与舒适性相关的纺织品性能评价 177
& W2 Y v. @5 W. ] 18.2.1 Heat transfer/热传递 178
9 Y; s7 a3 ~% x7 V8 L9 B 18.2.2 Moisture properties/湿传递性能 179
- I9 g8 {# |" ]- l3 d 18.2.3 Air permeability/透气性 179
M5 N7 @& k. Y 18.2.4 Porosity/孔隙率 180
, h4 a+ f) S, B1 u. Y) O 18.2.5 Electrostatic tests/静电测试 180
1 X2 C4 C: ?4 P" \2 K4 }- ?5 O0 f Questions/思考题 180! u5 \* _4 z l8 g
Appendix/附录 181
/ w" Z( c3 P! J- r- x% u AATCC:AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS/美国纺织化学家与染色家协会 1819 O' W4 U* M! \6 f
ASTM:AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR TESTING AND MATERIALS/美国材料试验学会 184
6 K# R7 d, }# S, `1 rVocabulary/词汇表 189
6 c( J0 T- Q* o/ CReferences/参考文献 197% N, q+ c# \, r( R( l6 d9 x" v$ [* H
|
|