
纺织材料学(双语教材),刘妍,熊磊,PDF。普通高等教育“十一五”国家级规划教材(本科),纺织工程专业双语教材,电子目录,14M。% D5 _- F- V; v
9 \* m; B9 C- f内容提要
; S( Z. e5 [. A w本书讨论了纤维、纱线与织物(包括机织物、针织物及非织造布)的结构、机械性能、物理性能及使用性能。涉及的纤维势括天然纤维(如棉、毛、麻、丝等)、传统化学纤维及新型化学纤维。本书同时介绍了纤维、纱线和织物的各种标准测试方法(包括国际上常用的ASTM, AATCC及GB等方法),并讨论了与各种测试方法有关的测试原理及对测试结果的影响因素。
- ?, P) |$ p0 l* Y4 o. O4 z本书可供高等纺织院校纺织、服装相关专业的本科生及研究生作为《纺织材料学》的双语教材或专业英语教材,也可供其他专业师生、纺织贸易专业人员和科研及生产单位的技术人员参考。
4 m8 [8 B/ A5 R* X1 o7 S目录5 t9 T* a9 p8 I7 P& |9 Z
Part Ⅰ An Introduction to Textiles/纺织入门 18$ w& T! y4 c1 {" S
Chapter 1 Introduction/介绍 18
0 r! q2 A9 { p 1.1 ASTM Standard Terminology Relating to Textiles/ASTM纺织标准术语 18
d, c8 c, c# |0 s. P 1.2 Fiber history/纤维历史 26
" S" w' L4 u# S5 N- f7 r 1.2.1 Natural fibers/天然纤维 264 i' V1 ^. u, C& e5 W e
1.2.2 Man-made fibers/化学纤维 27
" Q2 w+ {3 s# x# g/ M. F1 c Questions/思考题 30# G5 F0 z) _& d/ ?
Part Ⅱ Textile Fibers/纺织纤维 32
& }3 q) d% y" B& P6 A1 U Chapter 2 Natural Cellulosic Fibers/天然纤维素纤维 32- z8 b u* Y, z$ \" n
2.1 Cotton/棉 334 V/ Y2 j# n( {- u
2.1.1 Nature of cotton/棉花的种类 33/ S# {. l1 {% v4 h" ?5 L4 r& L
2.1.2 Classification/分类 34
1 N- ?7 k& O; I" F2 s 2.1.3 Growth and structure of cotton/棉纤维的生长与结构 34
( I8 w$ i2 q9 z: r8 z8 q% r- v 2.1.4 Maturity/成熟度 36* y7 v" R4 R) x+ L5 e/ Q
2.1.5 Cotton properties/棉纤维的性能 38# z! a; I9 E0 Z4 ]8 M$ z3 n& K0 ]
2.1.6 Cotton classification/棉花分级 39
: u: F# W/ G0 G 2.2 Bast fibers/韧皮纤维 40. e9 B# M5 n: g# h
2.2.1 Flax (linen)/亚麻,亚麻织物 41
' h# G, s5 g% Z) f 2.2.2 Ramie/苎麻 43% N1 }% B5 F1 ~
2.2.3 Hemp/汉麻 44
5 ?/ u W5 c: D5 r ~& T 2.2.4 Jute/黄麻 44/ a# L$ p6 b! \2 l3 t# K
Questions/思考题 453 N+ s5 p/ B- m. A5 i% G
Chapter 3 Natural Protein Fibers/天然蛋白质纤维 46
+ D" y/ H# \$ ?3 r 3.1 Wool/绵羊毛 467 O2 T0 @* J! X" ^6 q5 v% M
3.1.1 Wool production and history/羊毛生产和历史 464 g) s& @) o5 r* ~: e
3.1.2 Wool grading/羊毛分级 479 ]8 q' D. C; _
3.1.3 Wool structure/羊毛结构 47
1 D2 `8 k( _+ D+ J0 q 3.1.4 Wool properties/羊毛性能 482 L7 }: f7 B+ Y6 [- g) T
3.2 Specialty animal fibers/特种动物毛 513 x( h, ]4 A/ n9 }9 E
3.3 Silk/丝 524 W' F/ B+ S# J# M0 O
Questions/思考题 54
- b. ]+ E' b' o$ `. ^7 y3 }6 L; {6 i5 w3 ? Chapter 4 Man-made Fibers/化学纤维 55
+ l( u- p- A# x( S 4.1 Manufacturing processing of fiber/纤维生产工艺 55
+ F& ^6 V5 w; V6 q6 z 4.1.1 Wet spinning/湿法纺丝 56
( G; v$ c! y. ? 4.1.2 Dry spinning/干法纺丝 564 G8 i2 ^8 Q/ Z8 `6 D% j
4.1.3 Melt spinning/熔体法纺丝 56% \" ^1 ?& `/ D9 l7 \; H @
4.1.4 Gel spinning/凝胶纺丝 57" s1 |* Q: `1 }5 ~" ^, `+ s; H* \3 m+ r
4.2 Regenerated fibers/再生纤维 57
5 U% i7 Y8 R0 {0 P8 R 4.2.1 Acetate/醋酯纤维 57# j* d* w% \9 o7 s5 o# d, [* [% q
4.2.2 Triacetate/三醋酯纤维 59
3 _% x7 ?6 v3 U9 Q' E1 A6 U, [ 4.2.3 Viscose fibers/粘胶纤维 59
5 J5 K/ [6 i5 y2 c* h$ f. h8 j 4.3 Synthetic fibers/合成纤维 60- g7 t5 B) J# i2 u
4.3.1 Acrylic/腈纶 60( `) g. k$ E9 |# l% U& Z" u S
4.3.2 Modacrylic/改性腈纶 61
, g8 u; l( C$ v. a0 K 4.3.3 Nylon/锦纶 61
% U" f% I: ?) B8 I* I3 i9 k 4.3.4 Polyester/涤纶 62
% ]7 p' W- V( u' T+ i/ \- ? 4.3.5 PBI/聚苯并咪唑纤维 63
7 r' m0 K3 R. y3 b/ W 4.3.6 Vinal/聚乙烯醇纤维 63
1 |0 `: b7 l! |; n 4.3.7 Olefin/聚烯烃纤维 63
$ |4 \3 @6 k% ~& W& m$ M 4.3.8 Aramid/芳纶 64
0 K: E# f1 L6 N 4.3.9 Lycra/莱卡 64
6 h: f( v: }# v. I- M! Y# ]1 G 4.4 Other man-made fibers/其他化学纤维 660 ~3 W6 R5 F2 O, }0 [
4.4.1 Glass/玻璃纤维 66
0 K* X' l) D% J/ U* e$ p! Q' @9 U. C 4.4.2 Metallic/金属纤维 67
+ j% ?1 W+ U* [! s+ e/ j& j' m Questions/思考题 673 |) d; v6 }# F9 y
Chapter 5 New Fibers/新型纤维 68
$ c$ ?9 i6 q" E+ [6 z 5.1 Carbon fibers/碳纤维 68* q) K' w0 H2 f7 N2 _
5.2 Fluorocarbon/氟碳纤维 68
' i) ?: f- Y. Z3 A0 o 5.3 Lyocell fibers(Tencel)/莱塞尔纤维 68
: c% [' J% C5 B: f- [ 5.4 High-wet-modulus fibers/高湿模量纤维 69% b: N; S( I3 P' i7 n) z G) E
5.4.1 Modal fibers/莫代尔纤维 694 J4 j) I6 x' l1 i
5.4.2 Richcel/丽赛纤维 701 D' }5 Z# d4 ^& v! {
5.5 Soybean protein composite fibers/大豆蛋白复合纤维 70
0 M2 i8 V, p4 s; q- D1 y 5.6 PLA fiber/聚左旋乳酸纤维 71# S' |7 E/ v5 U- U' X
5.7 Heterogenous fibers/复合纤维 71
$ p1 [, I. L' R8 {: P 5.7.1 Bicomponent or multicomponent/双组分或多组分 723 x" x0 u( { Z3 y, n& G6 @2 N
5.7.2 Biconstituent or multiconstituent/双成分或多成分 734 ?! `! }1 Z$ C' s L9 h
5.7.3 Matrix or matrix-fibril/基质型纤维 73/ D) {/ o% d( J) k
5.8 Differential fibers/差别化纤维 74; V% K; U+ o; A/ F2 A0 E6 @
5.9 Functional fibers/功能性纤维 74( m5 Y- S; q' @) C* t" I1 B1 i' s" g
5.10 High performance fibers/高性能纤维 74/ {, ~8 o0 d! Y* _9 M: W; N1 I f
Questions/思考题 748 I" I; Z9 |6 ^
Chapter 6 The Property of Absorbing Moisture/吸湿性 75
3 ~: @5 _6 z G! }! I& r! l5 G6 \ 6.1 Orientation and crystallization/取向与结晶 756 a( O h; E# W, [" i
6.2 Moisture sorption/吸湿性 75
8 N/ l! R/ o3 _% k 6.2.1 Regain and moisture content/回潮率与含水率 756 s3 B' G& [; m
6.2.2 Relation between regain and relative humidity/回潮率与相对湿度的关系 75 h+ T$ C- v+ j: P" Q/ C- {
6.2.3 Comparison of various materials/不同材料吸湿性的对比 763 P. Q/ J% C2 E3 f' B' [
6.2.4 Theories of moisture sorption/吸湿理论 78/ Y a+ q N7 q4 w
Questions/思考题 80! ?& o' I e4 u4 U& M" m9 s
Chapter 7 Other Physical Properties of Textile Fibers/纤维的其他物理性能 81) v& Y) h7 \2 {% w
7.1 Electronic properties/电学性能 81
! h/ ?' E1 f& i6 x3 k6 C' ^ 7.1.1 Definitions/定义 81* a; c$ s3 }- x, u/ ]6 D1 \7 {7 v
7.2 Optical properties/光学性能 82
. S8 [: w) n5 Q. X 7.3 Thermal properties/热学性能 83
8 q* h1 `7 F6 k. K5 K2 c 7.3.1 Thermal parameters/热力学参数 836 ~1 B. A& ^" p
7.3.2 A comparison of temperature effects/温度效应比较 83
4 ~$ B- P+ |5 @2 u Questions/思考题 833 Q& ?) D0 \7 o0 S( |* V3 ]
Part Ⅲ Textile Yarns/纺织纱线 84
/ p. B& B5 y: G5 E" V Chapter 8 Yarn Processing and Construction/纱线制造与结构 84; p6 }% r! Z3 m4 e7 ~- S
8.1 Spun yarns/短纤纱 85
- i& I# F. w6 _# c6 Y 8.2 Filament yarns/长丝纱 855 N& q }; L" N
8.3 Methods of yarn processing/纺纱方法 85
U$ D) \7 U$ v) w1 `' j" e6 n$ p 8.3.1 Ring-spinning/环锭纺 86
2 \$ ^* u% f. k/ ^3 Q% r 8.3.2 New methods of yarn processing/新型纺纱方法 86( u$ @) A5 F8 z3 l
8.4 Single and ply yarns/单纱和股线 89
_1 h, n* g' k! E 8.5 Special types of yarn/特种纱线 90
; |6 m9 ~% S1 }7 p( U 8.5.1 Fancy yarns/花式纱 90
/ P# X) K4 \' R) C1 y( m 8.5.2 Stretch yarns/弹力纱 91, ^- X, s. a' b; j7 U
8.5.3 Textured yarns 变形纱线 91
% _. T. B+ t, n# r* d- Y, i 8.6 Blends and mixtures yarns/纱线混纺与混用 92" G3 N( }" [, |- k5 _! V. q
Questions/思考题 93
% `9 B2 H/ }' G& H4 F Chapter 9 Yarn Properties/纱线性能 94& i8 z8 d( A$ b4 ^- j4 r) [
9.1 Yarn number/纱线细度 94
T) N+ ?1 F& w1 N 9.1.1 Denier system/旦数 94
. N$ ~8 D( Y7 j, B/ r4 t 9.1.2 Yarn count system/纱线英制支数 94
9 f0 d# `7 l+ E7 s 9.1.3 Tex system/线密度 95
$ u" S, y) t3 r' ] 9.1.4 Metric numbering system/公制支数 954 q5 ~) u7 j3 b) L" S
9.1.5 Conversion in different systems/不同系统之间的换算 95! x* b( l* p" M
9.2 Ply yarn counts and singles equivalent/股线支数与单纱支数 95" V$ d3 w9 N7 H% a
9.3 Yarn twist/纱线捻度 96
' L* Y6 H; q" ~6 g( `# q' s; g 9.4 Yarn hairiness/纱线毛羽 97
9 v* I+ I0 [$ j' Y" t 9.4.1 Hairiness test method/毛羽测试方法 98
) @4 ~/ F( G( Z x! n 9.4.2 Factors affecting hairiness/影响毛羽的因素 982 k4 z% ^0 L( h) S7 n* r' d8 X7 O4 R
9.5 Yarn unevenness/纱线不匀 99* t, Q' z/ U0 ^) `" X! b1 W
9.5.1 Test of yarn unevenness/纱线不匀的测试 99% k* w# ?4 [ c; Q- _) r v* u* b, `
9.5.2 Reasons for yarn unevenness/纱线不匀的原因 100
. O* Y2 S& H2 S+ D: M 9.6 Classification of yarn quality/纱线质量分析 100/ r4 \1 b6 ?) o' y
Questions/思考题 100
3 {3 M) E& |0 R, w- [0 O9 o+ d$ @) gPart Ⅳ Textile Fabrics/织物 1025 @$ t+ U' o1 n0 f B: G" E- L
Chapter 10 Woven Fabrics/机织物 1023 K9 k' x8 x: m# y$ Q$ X
10.1 Making woven fabrics/织制机织物 102
" G* J# W$ Q0 S m 10.1.1 The loom/织机 102
" b% B* C( `0 \5 j' |5 H+ F7 p 10.1.2 Loom type/织机类型 104) l# f- j+ w9 [3 g
10.1.3 Loom motions/织机运动 104
9 J6 b# f2 j% g" i( b+ J. i# i* w7 r 10.1.4 Electronics in weaving/电子技术在织机中的应用 105
. ^1 F, m i9 U2 |6 S 10.1.5 The selvage/布边 1055 f$ l4 f' \4 H6 ~
10.2 Warp yarns and filling yarns/经纱和纬纱 105
9 g$ ^. M; t9 B0 v g7 }; ~* z 10.2.1 Identification/鉴别 106
/ z+ m8 y% X( Y! l) @2 k+ C& ] 10.3 Face and back/正面与反面 106
/ @/ h" g7 I/ A% k 10.3.1 Reasons for differenee/存在差异的原因 107: |3 E- X! ]- o: I! x+ L2 F
10.3.2 Caution/应用的要点 107
3 U0 C0 S! f; \( H$ @2 t& L# f, [ 10.4 Top and bottom/顶端和底端 107* d! q8 c* S3 C% K3 G8 ?; Q& @
10.4.1 Reasons for difference/存在差异的原因 107+ S6 \1 C) x1 v& J. j2 O$ y
10.5 Weave floats/组织浮线 108+ A( H' s* @+ K9 @$ U$ F
10.6 Basic weaves/基本组织 1088 p! X1 k9 p- n+ i \
10.6.1 Plain weave/平纹组织 108% x9 R( X& ?, w: t
10.6.2 Twill weave/斜纹组织 109% L4 J& M6 h8 Z {% T' \2 X0 B
10.6.3 Satin weave/缎纹组织 111
' v* h, W$ ^7 s 10.7 Fabric performance and characteristics/织物性能和参数 112$ o' ?; c! I5 n# _8 q: h9 k4 \
10.7.1 Fabric width/幅宽 112
" d1 t' ]; H/ e6 j O' r, {% I4 S 10.7.2 Fabric weight/织物重量 112
" w. h. B4 o$ w9 e5 C 10.7.3 Fabric thickness/织物厚度 1132 @( H7 Y" s; H3 N
10.7.4 Fabric density/织物密度 113
+ m2 j3 c+ T. p: t# k 10.7.5 Fabric count/织物经纬密度 1133 r; p, \5 i7 b6 \2 U; Z
10.7.6 Fabric defects/织物疵点 113
7 Y+ ]; w W4 X" j Questions/思考题 113
4 m Q8 G9 R" [) r( ? Chapter 11 Knitted Fabrics/针织物 1141 h8 k$ I9 j& b* m4 d, n5 n
11.1 Making of knitted fabric/针织物形成 114
3 g5 k2 S1 m/ M* f/ O 11.1.1 The forming of knitted stitches/线圈的形成 114
+ I k- s' w9 f 11.1.2 Types of knitted stitches/线圈的种类 116: n2 h3 |, b( k( E* E
11.2 Weft knits/纬编针织物 117
5 A" N- A2 \' H 11.2.1 Jersey knit fabric/纬平针织物 117
! ?4 A2 a% M" K N 11.2.2 Rib knit fabric/罗纹针织物 1182 J6 Z* i: O' R9 G$ K6 H- D
11.2.3 Purl knit fabric/双反面针织物 119
X4 V4 E1 Z+ U3 K" l3 y 11.2.4 Double knits/双面针织物 120
8 _6 x0 ?- r! M: w O" {8 X 11.2.5 Full-fashioned knits/全成形针织物 120
5 `+ \& g4 x" l' M* G! z 11.3 Warp knits/经编针织物 1217 u @# R# r+ W( H0 W7 s
11.3.1 Tricot fabrics/特里科经编针织物 1210 U$ k5 Y7 u. \! S4 s/ H6 t
11.3.2 Raschel fabrics/拉舍尔经编针织物 1223 h( O. m1 ^& B$ s
11.4 Performance and characteristics/性能和参数 122
4 |/ J' a' M( I' g Questions/思考题 123
[" f$ h4 G- n( O2 @( N Chapter 12 Nonwoven Fabrics/非织造布 124
5 |$ H8 ^) R, d+ A 12.1 Introduction/导论 124
: X! W3 j+ }5 J' H 12.2 Manufacturing methods/生产方法 125
* u$ j" r( t/ {, x* o4 W t/ [ 12.2.1 Dry laid system/干法成网 125: b) t7 M& D q/ D5 W' o u1 R
12.2.2 Wet laid system/湿法成网 125
: H% ?( J/ R) z 12.2.3 Polymer laid system/聚合物挤压法 125: a4 q6 Z% D4 ^+ L
12.3 Various nonwovens/各种非织造布 125# ] X4 q6 h0 {+ N5 L6 P. N
12.3.1 Needle punched nonwovens/针刺法非织造布 125
5 \" X) n2 ^7 |% P3 u4 G% c 12.3.2 Bonded web nonwovens/黏合法非织造布 126
$ ]# u7 ` z" l/ O2 F+ a 12.3.3 Spunlaced nonwovens/射流喷网法非织造布 127) H- X \) h. h6 Q' g6 ]3 P
12.3.4 Spunbonded nonwovens/纺粘法非织造布 128! {4 j( N2 o2 E# a+ F) ]; J- G2 L
12.3.5 Melt-blown nonwovens/熔喷法非织造布 129
& q, Q- D$ q% O$ ]- L5 Z7 ^6 x Questions/思考题 129. F+ `% Q7 r- d
Part Ⅴ Textile Testing/纺织品测试 130/ _) u6 I. y% j& |" Q2 w) e
Chapter 13 General Test Methods/常规测试方法 130
. B* ^1 @- B# [6 V 13.1 General fiber tests/纤维常规测试 130" z! d" W0 r: f* N
13.1.1 Fiber identification/纤维鉴别 130
: \/ A! v, D. E$ h/ z, y$ A2 C 13.1.2 Fiber length/纤维长度 134" Q2 y# u$ t2 c% u: O7 g! n
13.1.3 Fiber fineness or linear density/纤维细度或线密度 135
v- {# \3 \ l- G( l 13.1.4 Cross-sectional shape/截面形状 135; g; g a5 I2 o' P) Z3 b6 P7 L. W
13.1.5 Crimp/卷曲 135) o1 t7 ^! ~" W
13.1.6 Regain/回潮率 136) z/ N' H6 v! Y v! V
13.1.7 Mechanical properties/机械性能 136
. \0 S9 V, b/ S- H& ] 13.1.8 Chemical characteristics/化学性能 136' D6 _! E; d+ S9 Y9 s( H
13.1.9 Surface characteristics/表面性能 136' P: _3 `, p; V9 F
13.1.10 Density and specific gravity/密度和相对密度 137) W9 \( R. J: }9 ?& t
13.2 Special tests for natural fibers/天然纤维的测试 137
2 S- J, C/ m2 [* Z Z! J: [ 13.2.1 Tests for cotton/棉纤维测试 137
# B7 X4 k' n) l! Y( g" s9 P 13.2.2 Tests for wool/毛纤维测试 1399 B! G7 C. R, L% r& n( ?
13.3 Testing of tensile properties/拉伸性能测试 1401 o. G2 y. @" Y ^. j$ O& G
13.3.1 Description of tensile proprieties/拉伸性能的描述 141
: Y9 y" t0 H# {) G* j: W: U5 t 13.3.2 Fiber and yarn tensile testing/纤维和纱线拉伸性能的测试 146* [) A2 b/ }! C: e4 w" A) L
13.3.3 Fabric tensile testing/织物拉伸性能测试方法 1476 p9 L/ \" t5 p9 u
Questions/思考题 149- E' |9 k( w) `
Chapter 14 Fabric Abrasion and Pilling/织物磨损与起球 150
( j6 V% N- E5 ]( H. n6 F 14.1 Types of abrasion/磨损的类型 150 V ]+ S3 } R+ x" @. J. P1 z
14.1.1 Abrasion between fabrics/织物间的磨损 150
9 Q* w9 e$ e2 }8 D$ h4 H 14.1.2 Abrasion between fabric and a nontextile surface/织物与非纤维制品表面磨损 150
3 e( u3 Q; _9 B6 ]# w 14.1.3 Abrasion within fabric/织物内部磨损 151% Z1 } C, G; U, i
14.1.4 Abrasion by foreign materials within the fabric/与织物内部其他材料的磨损 151; F# E/ K% [- @% _" g0 o# G
14.2 Factors affecting fabric abrasion resistance/影响耐磨性能的因素 151
# e. V5 R0 K, [ 14.2.1 Fabric properties/织物性能 151
: E/ X. r2 \' P, `, M 14.2.2 Other factors/其他因素 153/ m8 P! l* e+ J5 f# _
14.3 Abrasion testing/磨损测试 154 a+ V. S) H* R/ ]' }% h, \- l$ Z
14.3.1 Visual comparison with an unabraded specimen/与未磨损样品视觉对比 154: \) }2 z" `& T0 b1 t4 F
14.3.2 Number of cycles to produce a hole/产生磨损破洞需要的摩擦圈数 154/ c3 ^7 m. G4 j0 q- K4 l& F0 B8 Z, R
14.3.3 Change in a physical property/物理性能的变化 154
f0 ?; g# b1 F: n$ h2 J& t4 K0 e 14.3.4 Microscopic examination/显微镜观测 155! R% b" u. E" W' h+ R: X. T
14.4 Aesthetics of abrasion and wear/穿着和磨损对美感的影响 155 ^! Y" Z! i: u1 s& S: k1 F
14.4.1 Color changes caused by abrasion/磨损引起的颜色变化 155
4 M0 }% W3 a" t" Q0 _: I& V 14.4.2 Pilling/起球 156
, [4 s6 {2 O6 A: u" s Questions/思考题 157 M) x: e1 k1 Z( z
Chapter 15 Fabric Hand and Drape/织物手感与悬垂 158
1 B3 y* x8 J8 y3 j6 @ 15.1 Fabric hand/织物手感 158: E6 X9 k7 ~. X# d6 ~7 W' c: x
15.2 Fabric drape/织物悬垂 159
/ b2 `8 w* ~/ @ [% {3 S5 T3 ? 15.3 Measurement of hand and drape/手感与悬垂的评价 161
* X% x! ~& O+ D. J3 W' Q3 R 15.3.1 Subjective evaluation/主观评定法 161
& a; e4 X) u' d q- \ 15.3.2 Quantitative measurement/定量评定法 162& G9 ?, N3 \% t& @
15.3.3 Kawabata evaluation system/KES评定法 163
$ b. T! p4 a2 T# G \ Questions/思考题 163# T; |, p9 ?6 G. w* A$ S! U
Chapter 16 Fabric Colorfastness/织物染色牢度 1649 x1 q5 z% U9 W6 m
16.1 Evaluation of color and colorfastness/颜色和染色牢度评定方法 164) g [8 g. b* o! p1 C
16.2 Colorfastness tests/染色牢度测试 164' s* L# F2 M1 r L# w v/ K/ h
16.2.1 Colorfastness to crocking/耐摩擦色牢度 164" r T, `& T$ C% \( X: W+ b
16.2.2 Colorfastness to laundering and bleaching/耐洗涤和耐漂白色牢 1657 A0 k. Y' y9 q( C
16.2.3 Colorfastness to drycleaning/耐干洗色牢度 166# J# [( r0 W4 \/ n8 \& L0 `. L0 t: a9 q
16.2.4 Colorfastness to perspiration/耐汗渍色牢度 166: G0 r, u0 o3 q7 J% Q' u/ z
16.2.5 Colorfastness to water/耐水浸色牢度 1664 j! \) ^7 b' g, V, _
16.2.6 Colorfastness to light/耐光照色牢度 167
; X1 `% T, }) v# E+ i1 z/ U3 B* q! L 16.2.7 Colorfastness to atmospheric contaminants/耐空气污染色牢度 168
7 h0 C' x. R# ]2 p# @& j5 W Questions/思考题 168
( Q# ?6 ]) |% T4 m$ G) n Chapter 17 Fabric Flammability/织物可燃性 1694 h/ _! V* E* n# A, z2 {4 r6 [
17.1 Flammability standards/可燃性标准 169/ n, h; I' J6 R9 l* O
17.2 Properties affecting flammability/影响可燃性的因素 169
" l+ Y* Z' w& l: e; M" L 17.3 Flammability testing/可燃性测试 171
$ R1 c1 t x* y9 a 17.3.1 Forty-five degree angle test/45°燃烧测试法 171
$ a$ ~6 x6 P+ g' M3 E+ O% A 17.3.2 Vertical flame tests/垂直燃烧测试法 172
3 L# Q' h* B$ G 17.3.3 Carpet testing/地毯测试 172
' W& W2 t" T& }# d2 o& f5 q 17.3.4 Cigarette tests/卷烟点燃测试 172
* W; u3 H% S7 v: p* `. n: N( ~ 17.3.5 Other standard flammability tests/其他可燃性测试 173: k" Q5 M V: b' j
Questions/思考题 173 B& z4 J# ]0 G# _: M, P$ ~
Chapter 18 Comfort of Textiles/纺织品舒适性 1742 S9 j& P) E U: ~( n
18.1 Physical phenomena affecting thermal comfort/影响热舒适性能的物理现象 174* ^2 P7 q4 z& z8 [* _' Y! S5 X
18.1.1 Heat transfer/热传递 174
3 h( A; o" i5 c& u 18.1.2 Moisture transfer/湿传递 175$ I8 i) f. u( l4 K
18.1.3 Water resistance/抗水性 175+ Y' p0 x) c, ]7 Y! x5 F* z
18.1.4 Air transfer/透气性 176
5 M8 V8 {9 G4 n9 |6 u! T" { 18.1.5 Porosity and cover factor/多孔性和覆盖系数 176
/ M5 }" g, L2 s 18.1.6 Electrostatic propensity/静电 177
7 n( W$ i. m! b! w! P( V 18.2 Evaluations of textile properties related to comfort/与舒适性相关的纺织品性能评价 1777 j) Z1 G( N) ?
18.2.1 Heat transfer/热传递 178" {0 {9 i5 z& ?- B
18.2.2 Moisture properties/湿传递性能 179/ ~0 ?) t1 M% {
18.2.3 Air permeability/透气性 179
. `# w7 H- ?$ h! Y! {; P 18.2.4 Porosity/孔隙率 180( s$ E4 A; q; {, ?8 f8 h
18.2.5 Electrostatic tests/静电测试 180
+ y4 ^3 k$ E ?1 J8 [& ] Questions/思考题 180
1 h7 a+ D X8 _+ m- |2 W0 M# H7 fAppendix/附录 181
. I9 @! I+ w. y4 K# _/ _$ t AATCC:AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS/美国纺织化学家与染色家协会 181
2 \- R" [2 K+ I0 O ASTM:AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR TESTING AND MATERIALS/美国材料试验学会 184
; U5 z' y2 n& V+ B. S6 A8 ~* jVocabulary/词汇表 189
H) L+ c+ y6 W3 D, u: DReferences/参考文献 197" T& F% b/ H d& {) g" B8 |1 D! h7 Z7 e7 b
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