
纺织材料学(双语教材),刘妍,熊磊,PDF。普通高等教育“十一五”国家级规划教材(本科),纺织工程专业双语教材,电子目录,14M。! K" S, |4 ^2 O3 W0 R
3 |1 u7 K9 b5 s1 ^% L q内容提要
6 V* F$ U' G& C: f1 m本书讨论了纤维、纱线与织物(包括机织物、针织物及非织造布)的结构、机械性能、物理性能及使用性能。涉及的纤维势括天然纤维(如棉、毛、麻、丝等)、传统化学纤维及新型化学纤维。本书同时介绍了纤维、纱线和织物的各种标准测试方法(包括国际上常用的ASTM, AATCC及GB等方法),并讨论了与各种测试方法有关的测试原理及对测试结果的影响因素。2 m5 ~5 Y: c+ n% u! J; s: d
本书可供高等纺织院校纺织、服装相关专业的本科生及研究生作为《纺织材料学》的双语教材或专业英语教材,也可供其他专业师生、纺织贸易专业人员和科研及生产单位的技术人员参考。9 Z2 ]4 A% Y0 B7 `
目录- J" p$ I# y/ t6 Q# A( T
Part Ⅰ An Introduction to Textiles/纺织入门 18/ p; u" d" }5 p# U- G
Chapter 1 Introduction/介绍 18 C) U5 u1 j3 P. N7 d1 M2 V7 e
1.1 ASTM Standard Terminology Relating to Textiles/ASTM纺织标准术语 18! [; K2 m# x% M0 c( L- n" V
1.2 Fiber history/纤维历史 26
# _+ h( j( H% ?1 m X 1.2.1 Natural fibers/天然纤维 26
4 v/ k+ L# Q7 o7 r' h$ t, O 1.2.2 Man-made fibers/化学纤维 278 E4 H/ p8 g4 i* ?$ }4 g
Questions/思考题 30
7 R: K8 U% N$ c- RPart Ⅱ Textile Fibers/纺织纤维 328 B- ~9 h( b: ~% y
Chapter 2 Natural Cellulosic Fibers/天然纤维素纤维 32
+ V/ Q4 x- `! }# t 2.1 Cotton/棉 33
5 k( |/ t/ I+ ]2 [6 V0 { 2.1.1 Nature of cotton/棉花的种类 338 M( N9 i4 O7 ~. |9 v( |
2.1.2 Classification/分类 34! Q% n- Q: D. C
2.1.3 Growth and structure of cotton/棉纤维的生长与结构 34. M( {/ H( w7 c' n2 \% E
2.1.4 Maturity/成熟度 36# C7 u! B2 `5 U6 ?4 w$ ~4 |, s- `
2.1.5 Cotton properties/棉纤维的性能 38
' F7 `8 J: p% e+ Z 2.1.6 Cotton classification/棉花分级 39
1 N: e1 }$ |) ~/ t 2.2 Bast fibers/韧皮纤维 40! a! M5 ?4 d; C; u7 x# f
2.2.1 Flax (linen)/亚麻,亚麻织物 41
0 p1 e2 N7 O" w" {4 k8 h0 q 2.2.2 Ramie/苎麻 433 a+ c! C) ~& Z% g+ N
2.2.3 Hemp/汉麻 44
! g, [6 ~1 C, t# R 2.2.4 Jute/黄麻 448 c& U x$ a! ?, @& k
Questions/思考题 45- u" I* V6 V; K0 e' ?/ i4 W
Chapter 3 Natural Protein Fibers/天然蛋白质纤维 46
j7 U- c# a6 W) `6 M: v/ R& [ 3.1 Wool/绵羊毛 46
& C) J4 a' u. C0 o9 L' q 3.1.1 Wool production and history/羊毛生产和历史 46
: n2 b6 `& p8 I2 \ 3.1.2 Wool grading/羊毛分级 47
" j% @0 T9 F% G+ I7 ]8 U, d) } 3.1.3 Wool structure/羊毛结构 47
7 U0 R# S/ t. H# X- K 3.1.4 Wool properties/羊毛性能 480 t$ n/ w: W- ]6 B2 |, ~# `
3.2 Specialty animal fibers/特种动物毛 519 }/ W+ f/ H1 d0 z
3.3 Silk/丝 52
, k* P6 D# S2 b# g* @; z6 x Questions/思考题 54& r4 X5 V& T2 L9 X8 ^
Chapter 4 Man-made Fibers/化学纤维 553 p: u+ r: V3 I: s9 W( y& K
4.1 Manufacturing processing of fiber/纤维生产工艺 55
1 o& b4 X I3 _0 {( U: C2 p 4.1.1 Wet spinning/湿法纺丝 56
1 ?9 _8 p6 d2 C0 } 4.1.2 Dry spinning/干法纺丝 56
: ]# k6 \) v" u 4.1.3 Melt spinning/熔体法纺丝 56
7 K( R9 {8 z) A2 l7 B. o5 C+ B/ \ 4.1.4 Gel spinning/凝胶纺丝 57! Z5 `( [7 {# U" N4 V& D; i
4.2 Regenerated fibers/再生纤维 574 [; m* O0 b" r- c& r
4.2.1 Acetate/醋酯纤维 57$ _8 n3 y9 r+ d: l# N9 R
4.2.2 Triacetate/三醋酯纤维 597 l' a0 r" I: ]4 t3 I: B7 @
4.2.3 Viscose fibers/粘胶纤维 590 `; h6 x$ |6 X' m2 U
4.3 Synthetic fibers/合成纤维 608 ?1 I& ?; y* ?" a3 j
4.3.1 Acrylic/腈纶 60" P4 V4 G, a8 z+ u
4.3.2 Modacrylic/改性腈纶 61
0 v: Q! a. l9 t1 s J 4.3.3 Nylon/锦纶 61
5 K5 ^, l- m9 [0 W+ M' Z7 t y" q 4.3.4 Polyester/涤纶 62
5 n7 Q: q, I! a. I n" k- l 4.3.5 PBI/聚苯并咪唑纤维 63
. Q/ f- ~& z4 O0 | 4.3.6 Vinal/聚乙烯醇纤维 63
* j M) ~! y0 E! M 4.3.7 Olefin/聚烯烃纤维 63* j( h) w$ P2 g
4.3.8 Aramid/芳纶 64 N" l+ G7 ^5 S
4.3.9 Lycra/莱卡 64% M0 ^% z5 u% L0 g6 v
4.4 Other man-made fibers/其他化学纤维 66% j# Q8 `3 X N
4.4.1 Glass/玻璃纤维 66
9 ]# ?0 H9 _8 \* `5 W( |. F6 z 4.4.2 Metallic/金属纤维 67. J- a3 p! R* Q* n D
Questions/思考题 67& Z0 a# ^1 M- s' X8 o+ V
Chapter 5 New Fibers/新型纤维 68/ l8 H5 E; s" M7 O' H+ |1 f
5.1 Carbon fibers/碳纤维 68. D _) B* `9 B
5.2 Fluorocarbon/氟碳纤维 68
3 C% C' Y, s) v( a% i& H 5.3 Lyocell fibers(Tencel)/莱塞尔纤维 68" q1 c2 J& h m
5.4 High-wet-modulus fibers/高湿模量纤维 698 c3 N4 t8 {6 ^& n3 z/ |1 q
5.4.1 Modal fibers/莫代尔纤维 69+ u' V2 m! s8 u$ k8 n
5.4.2 Richcel/丽赛纤维 704 ~9 x6 r0 w1 d8 j3 f9 }
5.5 Soybean protein composite fibers/大豆蛋白复合纤维 70* c1 ~, Y, |4 j& Q; a: q H
5.6 PLA fiber/聚左旋乳酸纤维 71
0 z4 ~7 v' a6 i1 o [- D1 V; n 5.7 Heterogenous fibers/复合纤维 71
D# g! R+ l( { 5.7.1 Bicomponent or multicomponent/双组分或多组分 72
7 [) c; T$ s7 s, r" r 5.7.2 Biconstituent or multiconstituent/双成分或多成分 73, T2 T6 R( J' R- F* H; \7 ?3 Y
5.7.3 Matrix or matrix-fibril/基质型纤维 73' }: f1 S; N! E* ~, w: s
5.8 Differential fibers/差别化纤维 74
( Q& ?6 p4 i4 {: [( L' t 5.9 Functional fibers/功能性纤维 741 [+ ]3 w2 |( r; n& a
5.10 High performance fibers/高性能纤维 74: Z# x" \; p2 o# P# k
Questions/思考题 74( h4 W4 f, b% [# U+ R; k7 G
Chapter 6 The Property of Absorbing Moisture/吸湿性 757 F0 J6 s1 m8 G& M% l6 ~
6.1 Orientation and crystallization/取向与结晶 75
9 l% s0 i) v G 6.2 Moisture sorption/吸湿性 75
* E @( d. d4 {6 ?7 _: f 6.2.1 Regain and moisture content/回潮率与含水率 752 \- d% k N7 ]/ Y @& \/ `4 h
6.2.2 Relation between regain and relative humidity/回潮率与相对湿度的关系 750 d1 O4 _! I. G& N( R: B- E
6.2.3 Comparison of various materials/不同材料吸湿性的对比 76! x3 j0 E6 G7 Z
6.2.4 Theories of moisture sorption/吸湿理论 78
4 B9 R% m9 }* Q: i7 t) \/ o Questions/思考题 80) C" Q+ ~- [1 u* g& i v$ b
Chapter 7 Other Physical Properties of Textile Fibers/纤维的其他物理性能 81, _3 `, p: v% V6 [( B7 ~; X- Y
7.1 Electronic properties/电学性能 81
0 j E% A; Z4 a0 J$ n 7.1.1 Definitions/定义 81* v# `4 `" {/ R% O
7.2 Optical properties/光学性能 828 s7 M( W7 {9 e1 g
7.3 Thermal properties/热学性能 83/ C) z' c7 s/ e7 ]' U) ]
7.3.1 Thermal parameters/热力学参数 83
$ X( k8 g' O( P& l6 N$ [ 7.3.2 A comparison of temperature effects/温度效应比较 83
3 Q: [9 T5 ^' s f/ p& k. h% Q. a Questions/思考题 83/ Z( c7 P# c6 p0 U4 l* v" [3 [
Part Ⅲ Textile Yarns/纺织纱线 84
; [! Z' Z# _. i( r* x% y# {/ x Chapter 8 Yarn Processing and Construction/纱线制造与结构 84
1 E7 }/ E4 q/ e0 J4 I 8.1 Spun yarns/短纤纱 85; P Q3 |1 D, |( s4 U
8.2 Filament yarns/长丝纱 858 s4 w# |0 g! z- U- N4 Q, h% v
8.3 Methods of yarn processing/纺纱方法 85
; K( u$ X* m" v" a0 k0 o 8.3.1 Ring-spinning/环锭纺 86
1 f/ e# q, F. q" p0 h6 `) _( j( c 8.3.2 New methods of yarn processing/新型纺纱方法 86" f1 K7 v- l4 b5 `4 E
8.4 Single and ply yarns/单纱和股线 89+ u3 b! p; L! z# b0 n& B# E( @
8.5 Special types of yarn/特种纱线 90
3 ]% J- P0 Z: n, Q 8.5.1 Fancy yarns/花式纱 90
b3 B7 l& Y% x' K3 S7 P b& R 8.5.2 Stretch yarns/弹力纱 91" l8 i2 i1 v3 T2 |
8.5.3 Textured yarns 变形纱线 91
2 t& b: P. q) W 8.6 Blends and mixtures yarns/纱线混纺与混用 92# U6 f0 E6 b( a" O
Questions/思考题 93& B, \ u* M$ W7 X1 N4 D+ N: B
Chapter 9 Yarn Properties/纱线性能 94( a$ c3 F* F- U5 e& a
9.1 Yarn number/纱线细度 94
3 ^5 e$ O, w( G; b- { 9.1.1 Denier system/旦数 943 w* z. V, r5 j2 ~+ }; Y
9.1.2 Yarn count system/纱线英制支数 943 ?6 N5 p: Q' o$ E* r$ \
9.1.3 Tex system/线密度 952 x4 S% M) c6 @4 z; q: J3 F
9.1.4 Metric numbering system/公制支数 95
" N+ d4 b% B0 [" c0 g9 l. _- i5 e 9.1.5 Conversion in different systems/不同系统之间的换算 959 e% C. k* x u8 }
9.2 Ply yarn counts and singles equivalent/股线支数与单纱支数 95
0 a$ L* X3 n5 { 9.3 Yarn twist/纱线捻度 968 Y l+ u6 {8 Y1 l
9.4 Yarn hairiness/纱线毛羽 97/ |' `# v* E: Z1 ^
9.4.1 Hairiness test method/毛羽测试方法 98
& n! x+ N- Z3 x& u1 a0 _ 9.4.2 Factors affecting hairiness/影响毛羽的因素 98
. c/ x, g6 Y1 [0 d' x 9.5 Yarn unevenness/纱线不匀 99
" O- M2 e6 F: w2 F; C( d& Y1 y 9.5.1 Test of yarn unevenness/纱线不匀的测试 99
& e; M2 Q, A( u" ~ 9.5.2 Reasons for yarn unevenness/纱线不匀的原因 100
- m8 }: g: I# ~& y. P# C `$ Y2 r2 G 9.6 Classification of yarn quality/纱线质量分析 100 J6 M5 r) c, ^
Questions/思考题 100# b' z, n8 t# l4 f
Part Ⅳ Textile Fabrics/织物 102" R- P7 f9 p# Z( m* x1 m0 x' T" }* Q: }
Chapter 10 Woven Fabrics/机织物 102
7 ^% Z. W, K+ `+ B9 J 10.1 Making woven fabrics/织制机织物 102
& h. N, \- A" f 10.1.1 The loom/织机 102
3 U; @1 s! y4 i+ o4 O9 E 10.1.2 Loom type/织机类型 104
+ s& k% l& C7 p% z$ b Q& f' a 10.1.3 Loom motions/织机运动 104
: V; W8 f( E0 J 10.1.4 Electronics in weaving/电子技术在织机中的应用 105& v$ H) T, y2 B
10.1.5 The selvage/布边 1055 l, e* }" h$ W4 z
10.2 Warp yarns and filling yarns/经纱和纬纱 105
6 u; O/ o0 p# s( T9 k# c9 V* W& l J 10.2.1 Identification/鉴别 106! y0 u, ~# a" V
10.3 Face and back/正面与反面 106: S4 M# z3 I. e a" H/ L; w
10.3.1 Reasons for differenee/存在差异的原因 107& B/ w0 ^) i$ V) L7 }3 b) G$ Y
10.3.2 Caution/应用的要点 107
+ I4 P7 e3 l" d+ Y1 p1 U9 } 10.4 Top and bottom/顶端和底端 107
0 b; ~2 I$ H- x f$ T2 c 10.4.1 Reasons for difference/存在差异的原因 107/ W+ E$ R+ r/ X. e/ j
10.5 Weave floats/组织浮线 108' G1 ~% z4 g( c5 w2 {# d
10.6 Basic weaves/基本组织 108 H4 U/ {: j6 ^0 H
10.6.1 Plain weave/平纹组织 108, |9 W% A( X5 ^5 Q8 p
10.6.2 Twill weave/斜纹组织 1092 ~: ?9 ?( W3 f0 Z: ^7 C2 V
10.6.3 Satin weave/缎纹组织 1111 ~" i4 L o+ n! x2 b
10.7 Fabric performance and characteristics/织物性能和参数 112
7 x% C+ }" {' ~2 ?0 P 10.7.1 Fabric width/幅宽 112
, d4 d+ q1 P( L3 f8 e 10.7.2 Fabric weight/织物重量 112. e$ t |( N1 L7 X5 z7 Q* B! \$ H
10.7.3 Fabric thickness/织物厚度 113
D% u9 A% d) D. m1 l. Q7 g 10.7.4 Fabric density/织物密度 113
C2 f5 H! n, U+ Q- X% f 10.7.5 Fabric count/织物经纬密度 1133 ]( N7 x3 }7 u, s/ d. J
10.7.6 Fabric defects/织物疵点 1130 O# I s1 w- r+ [2 h
Questions/思考题 113
$ G1 R; G4 w8 T+ Z) D( v Chapter 11 Knitted Fabrics/针织物 114
: v2 A( ~/ _+ C# B5 u/ L, o 11.1 Making of knitted fabric/针织物形成 114
* K! ~8 _) n7 Z# E) S$ L \. V7 y 11.1.1 The forming of knitted stitches/线圈的形成 114
. D& w) ~0 z1 }: S& M% s J: G, z 11.1.2 Types of knitted stitches/线圈的种类 1163 w9 J5 q1 K+ f: ?- b% N; v& `
11.2 Weft knits/纬编针织物 117
5 l$ w% T2 Z( G* P 11.2.1 Jersey knit fabric/纬平针织物 1179 y. o+ j! V5 n! v5 H' W% z! H
11.2.2 Rib knit fabric/罗纹针织物 118
]( x1 m# h0 o$ b 11.2.3 Purl knit fabric/双反面针织物 119# U8 y4 t5 s7 x+ I, c
11.2.4 Double knits/双面针织物 120
& E7 V& p0 {% Z- z! Y/ N; O4 ] 11.2.5 Full-fashioned knits/全成形针织物 120' z0 _9 o- t! R' b- [$ G/ m$ b
11.3 Warp knits/经编针织物 1218 b1 @- q5 I& H6 }
11.3.1 Tricot fabrics/特里科经编针织物 1218 G1 L# e0 u i# q* K
11.3.2 Raschel fabrics/拉舍尔经编针织物 122
4 Z8 x8 W- n! M6 ~) k6 W' H 11.4 Performance and characteristics/性能和参数 122: T& T9 S4 |. H& f
Questions/思考题 123/ B( I* [) U( K# n' O
Chapter 12 Nonwoven Fabrics/非织造布 124
/ \+ G, o/ n: c3 Y; p 12.1 Introduction/导论 124
. \+ J1 e6 M, B6 G" X+ e 12.2 Manufacturing methods/生产方法 1252 \8 V8 ^$ y: i q, w' S8 _4 b
12.2.1 Dry laid system/干法成网 125
, r0 ]5 H. m- {2 C8 @& [ 12.2.2 Wet laid system/湿法成网 125
. E% T% @! x2 O, l4 b1 [7 C 12.2.3 Polymer laid system/聚合物挤压法 125
* A) G' d' x6 k! C 12.3 Various nonwovens/各种非织造布 125
+ s( x' g! o, u8 ?5 F 12.3.1 Needle punched nonwovens/针刺法非织造布 125
# G- o7 V. Q. w; M" W6 L6 J 12.3.2 Bonded web nonwovens/黏合法非织造布 126
3 R9 e/ z0 S8 S" u6 G! T/ k 12.3.3 Spunlaced nonwovens/射流喷网法非织造布 127% c- O: m9 g# N- u1 L3 W5 ?
12.3.4 Spunbonded nonwovens/纺粘法非织造布 1280 p2 N/ e2 _5 l
12.3.5 Melt-blown nonwovens/熔喷法非织造布 129
# _3 c" V' O r& y Questions/思考题 129
9 W- C) d. I# ^. m$ l. A; Z+ rPart Ⅴ Textile Testing/纺织品测试 130 ?. k) r6 V2 [2 L. J) R( p1 \) i1 k0 O% G
Chapter 13 General Test Methods/常规测试方法 130
) h. S( c! o7 H8 O0 z* r 13.1 General fiber tests/纤维常规测试 130
; L9 M% N r- F$ d+ x 13.1.1 Fiber identification/纤维鉴别 130
# i8 ?' e( {, b k3 a0 O 13.1.2 Fiber length/纤维长度 134
4 f9 h" J- I5 o- m9 f& g+ R5 x 13.1.3 Fiber fineness or linear density/纤维细度或线密度 135
2 s/ E5 W9 k/ D* a 13.1.4 Cross-sectional shape/截面形状 1356 E8 |9 o6 s( J( ]
13.1.5 Crimp/卷曲 135
( _9 i& ~% R! h 13.1.6 Regain/回潮率 136# P1 C, E; V$ @8 C
13.1.7 Mechanical properties/机械性能 136
! S2 ?. L% |+ Y9 K 13.1.8 Chemical characteristics/化学性能 136
0 u0 c) W$ k3 p/ q J4 d" n 13.1.9 Surface characteristics/表面性能 136
. k+ w: `4 \/ v, j" K8 F 13.1.10 Density and specific gravity/密度和相对密度 137
% \% E" T4 G+ R5 C6 K 13.2 Special tests for natural fibers/天然纤维的测试 1377 \0 K3 d$ m, x7 F+ E
13.2.1 Tests for cotton/棉纤维测试 137
1 e1 Q7 J, J; D 13.2.2 Tests for wool/毛纤维测试 1398 I" R! i% V( B4 c* a, Y6 V
13.3 Testing of tensile properties/拉伸性能测试 140
: t8 S/ `% d' V% u# V% V4 y 13.3.1 Description of tensile proprieties/拉伸性能的描述 1414 r7 ~4 V; r+ T5 E4 \
13.3.2 Fiber and yarn tensile testing/纤维和纱线拉伸性能的测试 146 T" R' j' P, ~7 U
13.3.3 Fabric tensile testing/织物拉伸性能测试方法 147
3 g4 r- z3 x* @8 m Questions/思考题 149
0 d% u& ?( |& `: s: m( F Chapter 14 Fabric Abrasion and Pilling/织物磨损与起球 150
B1 `& m( e" {' P7 [ 14.1 Types of abrasion/磨损的类型 1507 G, T8 g) t/ n, H+ S: l
14.1.1 Abrasion between fabrics/织物间的磨损 150
. X5 J+ o R. K: z4 f* X 14.1.2 Abrasion between fabric and a nontextile surface/织物与非纤维制品表面磨损 150# j* ]' E7 y' |: Z3 {+ }# Y; E
14.1.3 Abrasion within fabric/织物内部磨损 1514 O: b+ T5 ~( ^5 V- K* Y
14.1.4 Abrasion by foreign materials within the fabric/与织物内部其他材料的磨损 1513 |0 t0 W3 K) ]2 n4 E V8 ^
14.2 Factors affecting fabric abrasion resistance/影响耐磨性能的因素 151
) o* U1 g' V$ d 14.2.1 Fabric properties/织物性能 151/ C1 [. P. v" D% @( }& w
14.2.2 Other factors/其他因素 153
, [* f3 `+ [! O+ r 14.3 Abrasion testing/磨损测试 1543 T' v+ J5 P) N( V! }$ w3 v: l
14.3.1 Visual comparison with an unabraded specimen/与未磨损样品视觉对比 1546 ?6 r& K# @. Y+ w
14.3.2 Number of cycles to produce a hole/产生磨损破洞需要的摩擦圈数 154
3 }4 Q8 ]" Y5 {* q" y& X 14.3.3 Change in a physical property/物理性能的变化 154
2 C4 i, z: Y7 I 14.3.4 Microscopic examination/显微镜观测 155
% w# f* [5 |' b6 S 14.4 Aesthetics of abrasion and wear/穿着和磨损对美感的影响 155/ ^- R1 v) ?7 b u2 d" s/ b
14.4.1 Color changes caused by abrasion/磨损引起的颜色变化 155( t5 l- J. d/ [7 ^" y! B
14.4.2 Pilling/起球 156
2 ?: Y8 `) N( I4 Z Z0 T+ m) D/ e# Q Questions/思考题 157
% }4 V& @( N* g! A/ Y Chapter 15 Fabric Hand and Drape/织物手感与悬垂 158
5 e' w# p4 X: _% h- Y* y6 T3 J 15.1 Fabric hand/织物手感 158/ {' O- n+ y4 B& o3 B1 n$ p6 w
15.2 Fabric drape/织物悬垂 159
v9 q2 r, T. ^6 l& a 15.3 Measurement of hand and drape/手感与悬垂的评价 1616 R# O& H* c& X, r& |1 h$ }
15.3.1 Subjective evaluation/主观评定法 161! p9 g: a4 \' B
15.3.2 Quantitative measurement/定量评定法 1622 ?6 c: m8 s$ s5 ?1 D
15.3.3 Kawabata evaluation system/KES评定法 163
! R" q; o( u7 V. e Questions/思考题 163! k" c6 A; Q7 L# i) E5 c7 o D) ^
Chapter 16 Fabric Colorfastness/织物染色牢度 164
" e/ w7 ]+ Q& ~8 ~, K) k k; i6 [) i U 16.1 Evaluation of color and colorfastness/颜色和染色牢度评定方法 164$ ~0 ?3 W: D% i" t
16.2 Colorfastness tests/染色牢度测试 164. w$ L E+ h: J& Z0 O
16.2.1 Colorfastness to crocking/耐摩擦色牢度 164
/ P% V- V) R! d6 p3 v1 F% n$ e 16.2.2 Colorfastness to laundering and bleaching/耐洗涤和耐漂白色牢 165: y+ j. ^ z: N+ ]3 c* r4 W$ ]
16.2.3 Colorfastness to drycleaning/耐干洗色牢度 166
5 @2 _* A% ~ M$ g( J( g 16.2.4 Colorfastness to perspiration/耐汗渍色牢度 1664 e( q# U# {9 ?7 W$ P
16.2.5 Colorfastness to water/耐水浸色牢度 166
, `$ M# c2 x+ P5 g5 N! k 16.2.6 Colorfastness to light/耐光照色牢度 167 D# t4 s9 }. Z
16.2.7 Colorfastness to atmospheric contaminants/耐空气污染色牢度 168+ ]& ], r* i* r4 m# j6 s
Questions/思考题 168
7 o, a9 U$ A! L Chapter 17 Fabric Flammability/织物可燃性 169
( _* o- c6 k w# `) e( O6 Y 17.1 Flammability standards/可燃性标准 169
# p/ `2 {9 T d m; { 17.2 Properties affecting flammability/影响可燃性的因素 169
) _ ^- C8 m: `) l9 d 17.3 Flammability testing/可燃性测试 171
. k& a- a8 {' Z! H" b% c8 y 17.3.1 Forty-five degree angle test/45°燃烧测试法 171$ _5 ]+ h3 Y# f0 h
17.3.2 Vertical flame tests/垂直燃烧测试法 172
7 ^ \! a3 \+ |$ n1 }9 v 17.3.3 Carpet testing/地毯测试 172
+ {2 Q+ ^- d9 v, D 17.3.4 Cigarette tests/卷烟点燃测试 172
2 D- E8 q) I! @ 17.3.5 Other standard flammability tests/其他可燃性测试 173+ u; Q' E. k! u" N' a7 O8 t
Questions/思考题 173+ n4 Q- s) [$ {' G( E
Chapter 18 Comfort of Textiles/纺织品舒适性 174
1 U! u: |( y8 I: _! g 18.1 Physical phenomena affecting thermal comfort/影响热舒适性能的物理现象 1745 g n+ m. ?5 c4 T3 { J
18.1.1 Heat transfer/热传递 174
5 e4 f- I( \$ F' F2 o) L1 v8 I0 U, j 18.1.2 Moisture transfer/湿传递 175
; q6 G/ `& @" } 18.1.3 Water resistance/抗水性 1752 u0 V3 F) M9 N4 @9 n3 i7 Y" A
18.1.4 Air transfer/透气性 1766 [: \" E/ v5 w0 N) v! C$ r9 w0 H/ [; F
18.1.5 Porosity and cover factor/多孔性和覆盖系数 176* p0 w& I) B% M( A" E5 B9 H1 J
18.1.6 Electrostatic propensity/静电 177
( c; S/ b4 R% I3 D 18.2 Evaluations of textile properties related to comfort/与舒适性相关的纺织品性能评价 177
8 }- I; O: @, Q: c4 [ 18.2.1 Heat transfer/热传递 178
! ~( {1 [/ O% J3 E( y+ B. ?. T. n 18.2.2 Moisture properties/湿传递性能 179- ~5 r7 V+ H' o0 N6 k; z
18.2.3 Air permeability/透气性 179
) u Y" k- v) l6 k8 k+ @ 18.2.4 Porosity/孔隙率 180
$ ~7 S1 P$ E+ z 18.2.5 Electrostatic tests/静电测试 180
/ {- H- |# Y1 e% O5 j+ p; \ Questions/思考题 180
3 T& }- d6 @/ H P/ D# L+ A H8 ^& lAppendix/附录 181
' B0 Z3 @& O: h8 ? AATCC:AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS/美国纺织化学家与染色家协会 181
$ T1 ^% N9 s9 D+ O( P/ q1 @ ASTM:AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR TESTING AND MATERIALS/美国材料试验学会 184
5 o/ `0 H4 |7 BVocabulary/词汇表 189
5 R2 ]. g+ d1 n I+ U1 Z RReferences/参考文献 197$ f9 ?4 m; h& w7 R. W/ @
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