
纺织材料学(双语教材),刘妍,熊磊,PDF。普通高等教育“十一五”国家级规划教材(本科),纺织工程专业双语教材,电子目录,14M。
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8 z' m, ^! R! F- S- e" g$ l/ \内容提要
3 K# E, v% Q ^+ }- I7 {2 P( _本书讨论了纤维、纱线与织物(包括机织物、针织物及非织造布)的结构、机械性能、物理性能及使用性能。涉及的纤维势括天然纤维(如棉、毛、麻、丝等)、传统化学纤维及新型化学纤维。本书同时介绍了纤维、纱线和织物的各种标准测试方法(包括国际上常用的ASTM, AATCC及GB等方法),并讨论了与各种测试方法有关的测试原理及对测试结果的影响因素。
! R/ T, j9 y. \- ~+ B本书可供高等纺织院校纺织、服装相关专业的本科生及研究生作为《纺织材料学》的双语教材或专业英语教材,也可供其他专业师生、纺织贸易专业人员和科研及生产单位的技术人员参考。
4 S5 y* V/ b1 e T9 |; |1 D目录
& X' X! h H4 z5 Z8 c, ]: Z$ j- |* {Part Ⅰ An Introduction to Textiles/纺织入门 182 n2 p" f# r# J* A) O
Chapter 1 Introduction/介绍 18! p3 n7 _# y& T. i/ i; M% H: u
1.1 ASTM Standard Terminology Relating to Textiles/ASTM纺织标准术语 18$ b( o! ]# D( s( y* {7 g
1.2 Fiber history/纤维历史 26
4 }4 Z1 a; O& D9 K 1.2.1 Natural fibers/天然纤维 26" b! C6 `. C$ g6 I3 V! Q% G/ r4 O$ M
1.2.2 Man-made fibers/化学纤维 27' U0 d/ L# K- l4 `$ T" M
Questions/思考题 303 | e, q5 {9 p9 a9 N, S: g4 e, U. @
Part Ⅱ Textile Fibers/纺织纤维 32/ U2 g0 T9 ?% r1 L; ^: _
Chapter 2 Natural Cellulosic Fibers/天然纤维素纤维 323 w% V2 X' w0 q( X* a2 Q; b
2.1 Cotton/棉 33
7 L6 W9 `6 }0 B1 D1 m 2.1.1 Nature of cotton/棉花的种类 33
/ Q H' T# r7 b1 I- p 2.1.2 Classification/分类 34
3 j4 L! z: b, j. H 2.1.3 Growth and structure of cotton/棉纤维的生长与结构 34
4 e, P+ u e6 t7 s) i( s0 s. |* F 2.1.4 Maturity/成熟度 36# E: u, F' r! L% w) a
2.1.5 Cotton properties/棉纤维的性能 38
. y" ]. z6 F: j& |! f0 e0 [! Q 2.1.6 Cotton classification/棉花分级 39
" {( v3 A: I" l! h+ T 2.2 Bast fibers/韧皮纤维 408 Y: f0 l% \, f0 s- _) q
2.2.1 Flax (linen)/亚麻,亚麻织物 41
. w T, \0 c: O7 p3 y) Y4 S 2.2.2 Ramie/苎麻 43
7 O0 [5 h4 P! u4 e) x2 h 2.2.3 Hemp/汉麻 44
7 E4 X: f7 |- O 2.2.4 Jute/黄麻 443 _: f: b5 h# H- x% ~" y9 f+ l
Questions/思考题 456 P9 p0 i! B! g* P
Chapter 3 Natural Protein Fibers/天然蛋白质纤维 46
8 f: C% C( H/ c0 W, p9 J" N 3.1 Wool/绵羊毛 466 P* @6 J! s4 I; r
3.1.1 Wool production and history/羊毛生产和历史 46* X5 P; V M) U4 S! z! o& F
3.1.2 Wool grading/羊毛分级 47
- R& a5 x8 w( t# N" L* h 3.1.3 Wool structure/羊毛结构 47
. T$ R8 V4 S6 v& R( t+ ? 3.1.4 Wool properties/羊毛性能 48) p' X7 g% B- C2 r+ e; _- e3 ]
3.2 Specialty animal fibers/特种动物毛 51" {+ ]& j! P& ]# v, G7 S7 ^
3.3 Silk/丝 52
+ w; T, O9 @" D, d Questions/思考题 54
/ V$ b; U7 ^+ n0 Z2 D* c Chapter 4 Man-made Fibers/化学纤维 55; w7 y9 f$ U( g* W+ v
4.1 Manufacturing processing of fiber/纤维生产工艺 55$ E6 y5 C5 ?8 h
4.1.1 Wet spinning/湿法纺丝 56
1 f& z' {3 B# s7 ~ 4.1.2 Dry spinning/干法纺丝 56- M& @1 k; [% j5 E; i3 W; O6 a
4.1.3 Melt spinning/熔体法纺丝 56
% f; `! ~* B9 L/ @! Z 4.1.4 Gel spinning/凝胶纺丝 57$ _: ~6 r8 V6 T2 d0 t$ K
4.2 Regenerated fibers/再生纤维 57" ? ~/ j: Q/ V# ^* ^9 e! g3 {! H
4.2.1 Acetate/醋酯纤维 57
4 \& r( {9 c/ P* a0 R9 I. p5 v 4.2.2 Triacetate/三醋酯纤维 59
2 b, a6 L1 F* s 4.2.3 Viscose fibers/粘胶纤维 59% w8 D3 a; O, [" W
4.3 Synthetic fibers/合成纤维 60
, Y! R* m, F3 [. B, u 4.3.1 Acrylic/腈纶 604 M& |1 a% W& }( _! f9 e
4.3.2 Modacrylic/改性腈纶 61) \4 U4 Q& G& O" r8 X
4.3.3 Nylon/锦纶 61
+ C: Q; N8 ~! b. s) J" X! E' U 4.3.4 Polyester/涤纶 62: q- [+ a) V% z3 D' @4 S! K* L" M
4.3.5 PBI/聚苯并咪唑纤维 630 m. `. A" X6 L% }+ q$ t1 i
4.3.6 Vinal/聚乙烯醇纤维 63) Y5 f+ d2 R _6 y9 B+ o
4.3.7 Olefin/聚烯烃纤维 631 c- `/ S# J3 S+ h* ], E5 G4 x
4.3.8 Aramid/芳纶 64: i# D/ w+ G7 z4 Z; K D/ n
4.3.9 Lycra/莱卡 64
, @! ~# p" X# V- l4 M 4.4 Other man-made fibers/其他化学纤维 66! X5 u( a- o; D# b. `1 p# d& n
4.4.1 Glass/玻璃纤维 661 d9 P) ~! L) i
4.4.2 Metallic/金属纤维 678 k% l8 |1 p, I' ?! h8 ^) |
Questions/思考题 67' f# n& e( ], \6 ]
Chapter 5 New Fibers/新型纤维 68
* V- y2 f2 D9 W; k$ h5 \ 5.1 Carbon fibers/碳纤维 688 v( I: b( w; w2 _
5.2 Fluorocarbon/氟碳纤维 68& `8 n' ~( I4 d `- m4 s5 m2 y( q
5.3 Lyocell fibers(Tencel)/莱塞尔纤维 68: B* x( B2 d f$ s+ o7 [4 C
5.4 High-wet-modulus fibers/高湿模量纤维 690 ]. S! c( m2 F- u! B8 q5 H
5.4.1 Modal fibers/莫代尔纤维 69& u* Y* t' P/ X* k) A& [" q+ A
5.4.2 Richcel/丽赛纤维 70
; [& b% E* V. W 5.5 Soybean protein composite fibers/大豆蛋白复合纤维 70
% U6 }/ R. A$ z% ^$ Z 5.6 PLA fiber/聚左旋乳酸纤维 71" W$ o1 m6 P( R& j3 }3 `, Z
5.7 Heterogenous fibers/复合纤维 71) {- O+ l$ w9 u0 Z f" \1 b
5.7.1 Bicomponent or multicomponent/双组分或多组分 72
1 ^8 Z" ^& @3 ?3 G+ R 5.7.2 Biconstituent or multiconstituent/双成分或多成分 73
; S/ x# y& U8 p- O+ r' G1 j 5.7.3 Matrix or matrix-fibril/基质型纤维 73: i. p$ q" b% p) t3 G6 U+ R
5.8 Differential fibers/差别化纤维 74
" a0 U- [' m" h9 s" z 5.9 Functional fibers/功能性纤维 74% n/ D4 l$ C7 i& `* b+ v3 n
5.10 High performance fibers/高性能纤维 74
- q; ]; i+ Y. h0 ^; Y8 `! L* h; |7 a Questions/思考题 74
& i* b: A& P6 Y2 y9 B Chapter 6 The Property of Absorbing Moisture/吸湿性 75
" d6 k P5 f* W9 z) X$ N 6.1 Orientation and crystallization/取向与结晶 757 J4 c d9 D3 V! X3 W# x0 H5 Q! _
6.2 Moisture sorption/吸湿性 755 p. F6 ?+ c" ?& Y
6.2.1 Regain and moisture content/回潮率与含水率 75
2 F) A6 `' @6 r; i! f' R# B \9 Q 6.2.2 Relation between regain and relative humidity/回潮率与相对湿度的关系 754 `) r& k' D0 L. d- z- _
6.2.3 Comparison of various materials/不同材料吸湿性的对比 76$ N+ g" [1 w _% B6 r; q
6.2.4 Theories of moisture sorption/吸湿理论 78
# [$ ] {8 X2 o; |: Q% v2 f2 E Questions/思考题 803 b6 K; E5 t5 M1 Z" }
Chapter 7 Other Physical Properties of Textile Fibers/纤维的其他物理性能 81
6 K" y9 N9 \- A3 [1 q% q4 V2 I 7.1 Electronic properties/电学性能 81
4 f' {9 v& }' \ 7.1.1 Definitions/定义 815 ]1 h: d' p0 T$ |) a, Y
7.2 Optical properties/光学性能 82
% Z0 N' B* W7 _: A" B& x H' p0 q 7.3 Thermal properties/热学性能 83
: m8 p1 }- o; M% F7 w' x 7.3.1 Thermal parameters/热力学参数 83
; j* H2 c6 j0 w. S4 W, O 7.3.2 A comparison of temperature effects/温度效应比较 83
+ z- V& l: Z& M3 G! B* y3 U Questions/思考题 83
' E3 O" {: o9 S; R% ]5 OPart Ⅲ Textile Yarns/纺织纱线 84* R! c8 t4 k, Q Q5 j- h
Chapter 8 Yarn Processing and Construction/纱线制造与结构 84! G' U! J8 {5 O h7 h: J$ `: S
8.1 Spun yarns/短纤纱 85
/ r* w/ y; o9 w0 P* ~2 i/ R* |$ G 8.2 Filament yarns/长丝纱 85
8 F$ z* j) I' i 8.3 Methods of yarn processing/纺纱方法 852 L% k3 z8 V9 v& t* h% @
8.3.1 Ring-spinning/环锭纺 86
. N3 Q/ {2 ?1 l 8.3.2 New methods of yarn processing/新型纺纱方法 86- R/ e! o/ [1 H+ M, c
8.4 Single and ply yarns/单纱和股线 894 B3 k2 N4 p$ P
8.5 Special types of yarn/特种纱线 90
2 T- s) t: ^9 r: r, w# {+ Y 8.5.1 Fancy yarns/花式纱 90 [& o/ b0 _& E! w! ^
8.5.2 Stretch yarns/弹力纱 91
+ d/ M2 r8 J/ j 8.5.3 Textured yarns 变形纱线 91
- ~; C, \- S6 n3 a0 _4 N( S 8.6 Blends and mixtures yarns/纱线混纺与混用 92" a4 ?& k' L: _+ m/ A
Questions/思考题 93
9 o& { r' e4 [- ` Chapter 9 Yarn Properties/纱线性能 941 q# ~' u. \9 J$ N+ u9 \& o j4 S" {9 \
9.1 Yarn number/纱线细度 94
: C/ I7 Z+ h# ?5 X! o 9.1.1 Denier system/旦数 94
! H% i R8 P) p9 J$ A 9.1.2 Yarn count system/纱线英制支数 94. ]; F7 ^- D, Q: x
9.1.3 Tex system/线密度 95
$ k' v& a* _. P' a1 F 9.1.4 Metric numbering system/公制支数 95+ s; W% B. \$ b; n! @6 `
9.1.5 Conversion in different systems/不同系统之间的换算 95
2 p8 [' K) D3 C. I5 ~) Y+ s! |$ A: c 9.2 Ply yarn counts and singles equivalent/股线支数与单纱支数 95
7 [/ P- X( Z% h 9.3 Yarn twist/纱线捻度 96) j2 C4 u Z+ N: J
9.4 Yarn hairiness/纱线毛羽 97+ B: p. S: X% v2 _
9.4.1 Hairiness test method/毛羽测试方法 98* o# A- v* i3 J8 L3 ^, B Q+ g
9.4.2 Factors affecting hairiness/影响毛羽的因素 987 i. [3 w" u5 N9 L3 ?/ F# c
9.5 Yarn unevenness/纱线不匀 99
, A% W, T* O, V& U) a6 x/ { 9.5.1 Test of yarn unevenness/纱线不匀的测试 99. ` I- X7 [2 {* B: g
9.5.2 Reasons for yarn unevenness/纱线不匀的原因 100
3 n% l' s) ?+ u3 x 9.6 Classification of yarn quality/纱线质量分析 100
+ [* Y0 j$ V* r& A Questions/思考题 100
. v% n; a' B; K- oPart Ⅳ Textile Fabrics/织物 102
& k8 n% ]4 p6 u' b. | Chapter 10 Woven Fabrics/机织物 102
# I9 ~. T% w3 `: {5 B& s8 X 10.1 Making woven fabrics/织制机织物 102: _7 f& s8 i+ H$ t2 u
10.1.1 The loom/织机 102- z7 K% I& q& m y0 Z
10.1.2 Loom type/织机类型 1042 x/ _: {2 a* W, q/ m8 n% C4 A
10.1.3 Loom motions/织机运动 104
+ d( j h; H" `( p3 w0 }% B 10.1.4 Electronics in weaving/电子技术在织机中的应用 105
7 H. L: f( d; T% G 10.1.5 The selvage/布边 105
- d; O' j! `7 H% Y# W 10.2 Warp yarns and filling yarns/经纱和纬纱 105
8 ]3 q+ Z9 _+ d9 o 10.2.1 Identification/鉴别 106# W8 m- Z1 u$ p) W: ~: j
10.3 Face and back/正面与反面 106
* A& q5 P: P$ H7 N8 N. w& O7 r 10.3.1 Reasons for differenee/存在差异的原因 1078 r/ x# E5 b* i6 e( C3 @
10.3.2 Caution/应用的要点 107! r5 ]4 ^$ t8 l1 R, f$ ]: r; o
10.4 Top and bottom/顶端和底端 1078 d1 V. C' h* e. O- o. T' V1 @
10.4.1 Reasons for difference/存在差异的原因 107, {6 t: P4 x, X& d
10.5 Weave floats/组织浮线 108
: q5 q1 Y B% e* F& c' h 10.6 Basic weaves/基本组织 108; I& o& C$ u* p5 p1 n' h
10.6.1 Plain weave/平纹组织 108
& A' R5 G; ^2 \: f5 R 10.6.2 Twill weave/斜纹组织 109" U8 ?: e4 v) A4 v# j" \2 b( z
10.6.3 Satin weave/缎纹组织 111
0 d+ A9 w7 ?& ^- h, }" i 10.7 Fabric performance and characteristics/织物性能和参数 112
' J' Z' ?/ ~+ y. A% F5 I 10.7.1 Fabric width/幅宽 112" g. |: A3 |! Z$ [# {+ i- A8 `
10.7.2 Fabric weight/织物重量 112
: c. R% S$ R$ T9 V/ m 10.7.3 Fabric thickness/织物厚度 113- @; f J1 a+ |% P: `* d$ e
10.7.4 Fabric density/织物密度 113
! f# I( Z5 g& Z) S6 { 10.7.5 Fabric count/织物经纬密度 113
- _' u5 J5 X6 q* D' \, o* t 10.7.6 Fabric defects/织物疵点 113% r. Y S5 t: H( i* Y
Questions/思考题 113
* f1 U; e# r( n+ L7 M, Z O9 { Chapter 11 Knitted Fabrics/针织物 114
6 w8 v8 a y2 o- ]2 `9 a& U 11.1 Making of knitted fabric/针织物形成 114
6 u7 I- {+ p# t ^( v5 b$ Y 11.1.1 The forming of knitted stitches/线圈的形成 114) S2 b/ G4 u6 n# M. E$ l
11.1.2 Types of knitted stitches/线圈的种类 116
+ }1 n0 Y' X# _! a 11.2 Weft knits/纬编针织物 117' Y+ h1 l9 F) w# }' [$ k
11.2.1 Jersey knit fabric/纬平针织物 1176 T- X5 {# x2 u# B; Z8 F
11.2.2 Rib knit fabric/罗纹针织物 118
- q2 _/ N( `. w9 n( F( v9 y; u# M 11.2.3 Purl knit fabric/双反面针织物 119
$ _$ \6 F! i# Z3 N 11.2.4 Double knits/双面针织物 120
' u" R* K) D1 U 11.2.5 Full-fashioned knits/全成形针织物 120
( v/ z9 t8 W) c 11.3 Warp knits/经编针织物 121
! a5 X3 ]# O7 X3 t# C 11.3.1 Tricot fabrics/特里科经编针织物 121
* ~) a$ G1 U4 H4 y3 H n7 b 11.3.2 Raschel fabrics/拉舍尔经编针织物 122
% h- U2 o7 E; o. B2 I6 B2 s# h 11.4 Performance and characteristics/性能和参数 122
5 G, c" d2 z4 w Questions/思考题 123
) H$ T( A& H; \9 Y+ C- [ Chapter 12 Nonwoven Fabrics/非织造布 124% |9 d$ K: s, i1 s; T J0 V) K, S
12.1 Introduction/导论 124
" O5 z6 V% u: R! U0 }6 M7 z 12.2 Manufacturing methods/生产方法 125
* ]# O0 R! X, p. k" c) b 12.2.1 Dry laid system/干法成网 1258 c" e# y1 z3 F& b1 O
12.2.2 Wet laid system/湿法成网 125
* O+ e) H' v/ V6 I/ ]) h0 x; u& {* ? 12.2.3 Polymer laid system/聚合物挤压法 125
: d* M1 @8 |* z$ M8 w0 F 12.3 Various nonwovens/各种非织造布 1253 F* X9 g, T( Y
12.3.1 Needle punched nonwovens/针刺法非织造布 1252 L4 }% v% X/ h, |: j- t1 F2 s
12.3.2 Bonded web nonwovens/黏合法非织造布 1268 T$ J. A8 `- U% k
12.3.3 Spunlaced nonwovens/射流喷网法非织造布 127
; K$ ?, i0 I6 L 12.3.4 Spunbonded nonwovens/纺粘法非织造布 128
- p' C+ X' E2 q) W' y 12.3.5 Melt-blown nonwovens/熔喷法非织造布 129# F: m9 u Y/ J4 s; M2 X
Questions/思考题 129
7 q0 I4 x e( i2 M7 \Part Ⅴ Textile Testing/纺织品测试 130
, n# v% u/ k7 X' K Chapter 13 General Test Methods/常规测试方法 130( r9 s6 ~3 N4 o' [) H0 A
13.1 General fiber tests/纤维常规测试 130
8 e# ?( G/ ?- _& N 13.1.1 Fiber identification/纤维鉴别 130
) B1 y. d: C& ^0 V! }) C 13.1.2 Fiber length/纤维长度 134- ^# Q; L! M* R. h+ g- ^
13.1.3 Fiber fineness or linear density/纤维细度或线密度 135: q! W7 G7 b1 ~; j9 j
13.1.4 Cross-sectional shape/截面形状 135! a% Q, O* K1 k5 K
13.1.5 Crimp/卷曲 135
& D9 G- }; }3 I' o! E. Q 13.1.6 Regain/回潮率 136! L7 J% Z0 A S" G) Q5 v; l: E
13.1.7 Mechanical properties/机械性能 1367 f9 B' z, b8 g, F3 {: C! J& n3 t* q
13.1.8 Chemical characteristics/化学性能 136
: L5 F' P" G- c8 x 13.1.9 Surface characteristics/表面性能 136
, W7 `/ @( r, ]* N- N3 V5 t. q 13.1.10 Density and specific gravity/密度和相对密度 137
& u+ e6 T7 p5 K& x0 a* R7 F3 k 13.2 Special tests for natural fibers/天然纤维的测试 137) O4 s- d% a+ Z
13.2.1 Tests for cotton/棉纤维测试 137, q. ]% p6 h; T' Z2 `1 ]9 R* A
13.2.2 Tests for wool/毛纤维测试 139
1 Q. I; y2 H1 _/ B3 X6 O8 ~8 a 13.3 Testing of tensile properties/拉伸性能测试 140
! k; n/ x" O ?" F$ X& y 13.3.1 Description of tensile proprieties/拉伸性能的描述 141: i) t* W k( R' C
13.3.2 Fiber and yarn tensile testing/纤维和纱线拉伸性能的测试 146 ]" _3 S% ^0 Q& @
13.3.3 Fabric tensile testing/织物拉伸性能测试方法 147
) [( v r0 B6 V4 ?4 V Questions/思考题 1496 N" n! T1 Q, t/ j: C) x/ B
Chapter 14 Fabric Abrasion and Pilling/织物磨损与起球 1508 p* A) R r9 q W
14.1 Types of abrasion/磨损的类型 150
- \" K- U& e/ g- a. s 14.1.1 Abrasion between fabrics/织物间的磨损 150 `8 ` `9 |7 {1 K [
14.1.2 Abrasion between fabric and a nontextile surface/织物与非纤维制品表面磨损 150
* P* n9 M: Y6 Q4 v8 U! O( f 14.1.3 Abrasion within fabric/织物内部磨损 1513 X" D! S, J" g( v
14.1.4 Abrasion by foreign materials within the fabric/与织物内部其他材料的磨损 151- e6 Y" C7 I: e) ^
14.2 Factors affecting fabric abrasion resistance/影响耐磨性能的因素 151, g* ?5 J( M+ } E% j* w$ o
14.2.1 Fabric properties/织物性能 151: b, r. U, q! W. l- B5 S
14.2.2 Other factors/其他因素 153
) G7 T1 Z& E U0 v9 x 14.3 Abrasion testing/磨损测试 154
* k' ^6 u/ Z0 L. m# o 14.3.1 Visual comparison with an unabraded specimen/与未磨损样品视觉对比 154/ A: A7 g$ B( p/ S& R+ L& r
14.3.2 Number of cycles to produce a hole/产生磨损破洞需要的摩擦圈数 154
; f; `! i% b) v# K; H( S$ g- h 14.3.3 Change in a physical property/物理性能的变化 154
$ m+ A. n/ h0 L% ^; [; O 14.3.4 Microscopic examination/显微镜观测 155* r* @$ S' W5 Y) c- s( @) e7 {
14.4 Aesthetics of abrasion and wear/穿着和磨损对美感的影响 155' p* [. z" Q# N6 P
14.4.1 Color changes caused by abrasion/磨损引起的颜色变化 155
' L7 T8 q3 ]5 X 14.4.2 Pilling/起球 156& Y, ~* J2 G$ a8 m
Questions/思考题 157+ X# P) \: n5 L. }
Chapter 15 Fabric Hand and Drape/织物手感与悬垂 158
% x; H q6 s: M3 D 15.1 Fabric hand/织物手感 158& V' A# c4 B; d! s H( h8 I
15.2 Fabric drape/织物悬垂 159
' p5 g1 d( G) e; @& L8 [9 f 15.3 Measurement of hand and drape/手感与悬垂的评价 161
# Z0 R1 V' R1 A+ O2 N9 B8 k# w- ? 15.3.1 Subjective evaluation/主观评定法 161
3 B4 _6 \& T3 i+ `2 H" D 15.3.2 Quantitative measurement/定量评定法 1620 ?9 N. \0 [ T/ ~& s, D, P7 d- @
15.3.3 Kawabata evaluation system/KES评定法 163& P0 [2 T" a! j9 N: D2 y
Questions/思考题 163
$ V1 M* o' u' n+ H1 ?1 x, \8 C$ c: G Chapter 16 Fabric Colorfastness/织物染色牢度 164
" Z4 M2 F9 w- @5 p1 d) ^% J7 y 16.1 Evaluation of color and colorfastness/颜色和染色牢度评定方法 164
$ J' ~4 a9 ]2 s! @' K/ m; { 16.2 Colorfastness tests/染色牢度测试 164! v% N# ~2 F. r; P; g9 r
16.2.1 Colorfastness to crocking/耐摩擦色牢度 164
l! ?! ~; `" v2 |3 g2 {5 x9 k, W1 n 16.2.2 Colorfastness to laundering and bleaching/耐洗涤和耐漂白色牢 165
Y9 D( K( `3 R' a) o0 A5 l 16.2.3 Colorfastness to drycleaning/耐干洗色牢度 166$ S9 z0 |$ R2 C' t7 Y$ X/ l1 m7 m9 O
16.2.4 Colorfastness to perspiration/耐汗渍色牢度 166
V+ _2 _: c5 G* l- R" a 16.2.5 Colorfastness to water/耐水浸色牢度 166; S# t1 @, a: x( g5 p
16.2.6 Colorfastness to light/耐光照色牢度 1673 U) D9 I' L0 F7 U3 v7 l
16.2.7 Colorfastness to atmospheric contaminants/耐空气污染色牢度 168 b1 _2 ^- Q2 o& h' D+ a% X+ {+ @1 |+ j
Questions/思考题 1685 }+ C$ C2 o3 C ? j/ f
Chapter 17 Fabric Flammability/织物可燃性 169
0 W9 ?2 M- n$ P' H 17.1 Flammability standards/可燃性标准 169
& G* S8 [2 f% r6 J/ B 17.2 Properties affecting flammability/影响可燃性的因素 169
6 W! v, R6 O' Q2 ~ 17.3 Flammability testing/可燃性测试 171
( K3 @4 @2 k8 u1 l+ `0 m/ }! k+ e 17.3.1 Forty-five degree angle test/45°燃烧测试法 171
( @2 V8 X$ r0 S, W 17.3.2 Vertical flame tests/垂直燃烧测试法 172: j9 D, T7 V% o0 |+ x0 M. H
17.3.3 Carpet testing/地毯测试 172& U% \+ W# _0 r9 Y* A
17.3.4 Cigarette tests/卷烟点燃测试 1727 _( H# C9 f$ o- ?! Q" ]* V
17.3.5 Other standard flammability tests/其他可燃性测试 173
1 {# h1 m `5 l Questions/思考题 1736 n$ }' Z! ^0 U1 s
Chapter 18 Comfort of Textiles/纺织品舒适性 174
, j; y" L) e8 ?7 \ 18.1 Physical phenomena affecting thermal comfort/影响热舒适性能的物理现象 1740 w* S' r0 L/ M) h, u J
18.1.1 Heat transfer/热传递 174
% u% p; Z8 D7 |4 v1 F 18.1.2 Moisture transfer/湿传递 175/ p G: B# ~' x
18.1.3 Water resistance/抗水性 1758 E- a2 m! n3 P. j+ t, z) \
18.1.4 Air transfer/透气性 176( U4 `6 u1 R2 ~# ^* {
18.1.5 Porosity and cover factor/多孔性和覆盖系数 176
& |- Z. Y, a) a' s) I 18.1.6 Electrostatic propensity/静电 177
+ M. L6 h3 P' z 18.2 Evaluations of textile properties related to comfort/与舒适性相关的纺织品性能评价 177/ e7 f! r9 O3 m" `0 p* ?0 R
18.2.1 Heat transfer/热传递 178' s, k6 O% i% q* }; O- | w
18.2.2 Moisture properties/湿传递性能 179
# Q* j: y9 F- V# a2 @2 Z 18.2.3 Air permeability/透气性 179
$ w2 e6 ~7 w2 V& q 18.2.4 Porosity/孔隙率 180
! a& E. i6 j0 N 18.2.5 Electrostatic tests/静电测试 180
# ]% y% R- r: f% \, @4 m4 B! J3 G$ Q Questions/思考题 180, u, q& b* E; X# r$ x( ~/ A/ D
Appendix/附录 181
, Q0 p2 e1 J& K AATCC:AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS/美国纺织化学家与染色家协会 181! M8 v( N% r9 W Y/ x- i9 b9 H
ASTM:AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR TESTING AND MATERIALS/美国材料试验学会 1848 e2 s1 R) d* n$ y( C0 n; U6 i
Vocabulary/词汇表 189, Y% Q0 y2 {8 x) ?/ K* B
References/参考文献 197) L5 z- t; A( j
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