
纺织材料学(双语教材),刘妍,熊磊,PDF。普通高等教育“十一五”国家级规划教材(本科),纺织工程专业双语教材,电子目录,14M。6 s6 H: n% J |
1 g t( [5 B! @6 |) V( W内容提要
; A$ a9 W: v. B0 c0 D本书讨论了纤维、纱线与织物(包括机织物、针织物及非织造布)的结构、机械性能、物理性能及使用性能。涉及的纤维势括天然纤维(如棉、毛、麻、丝等)、传统化学纤维及新型化学纤维。本书同时介绍了纤维、纱线和织物的各种标准测试方法(包括国际上常用的ASTM, AATCC及GB等方法),并讨论了与各种测试方法有关的测试原理及对测试结果的影响因素。7 f3 P- L$ [5 k$ k7 H6 w; F' b
本书可供高等纺织院校纺织、服装相关专业的本科生及研究生作为《纺织材料学》的双语教材或专业英语教材,也可供其他专业师生、纺织贸易专业人员和科研及生产单位的技术人员参考。/ x: g; D; x T9 q# p7 A p
目录* J! M. l) E0 j3 P
Part Ⅰ An Introduction to Textiles/纺织入门 18
X" j, r0 b* } h- ]3 ? Chapter 1 Introduction/介绍 18+ W9 x0 G4 c9 o, s
1.1 ASTM Standard Terminology Relating to Textiles/ASTM纺织标准术语 18
. X( t+ `, E4 S) F2 H 1.2 Fiber history/纤维历史 262 y: s# W; q" y
1.2.1 Natural fibers/天然纤维 26- o/ o0 `3 l5 s* n$ a% B8 Q
1.2.2 Man-made fibers/化学纤维 27
5 E( j3 j( R) D! ? Questions/思考题 30& T5 o( R# Y$ X3 T
Part Ⅱ Textile Fibers/纺织纤维 32
) U+ X2 J" h% j3 `( d! s- Q Chapter 2 Natural Cellulosic Fibers/天然纤维素纤维 32" P3 y+ Z' {# d" s, t* J1 b
2.1 Cotton/棉 33
[% Z. I) O- W7 C8 C: ^! h- h 2.1.1 Nature of cotton/棉花的种类 33; X8 e0 q" w* O) n9 L8 q# @
2.1.2 Classification/分类 346 c) d+ I8 w( Q, a
2.1.3 Growth and structure of cotton/棉纤维的生长与结构 34
6 d* X* u+ v9 F. H' t; D9 g& a. N7 ]" d9 d 2.1.4 Maturity/成熟度 365 Q# S7 Q" }2 J3 \
2.1.5 Cotton properties/棉纤维的性能 38
: d. I' h( H6 B2 O. H 2.1.6 Cotton classification/棉花分级 39
9 Z/ H# N! i6 K2 k" h* @% u p" R 2.2 Bast fibers/韧皮纤维 40
4 a3 F, `4 X3 W. Q& E N 2.2.1 Flax (linen)/亚麻,亚麻织物 41
6 V6 u+ e4 r* _5 O" m 2.2.2 Ramie/苎麻 43* ?/ o6 E: W$ k" l8 p3 B
2.2.3 Hemp/汉麻 44
" S& d4 F) u! ?. y& W+ Q9 Q 2.2.4 Jute/黄麻 44
( Z! [/ W! G1 U1 A1 } Questions/思考题 45$ _* V4 y: y" |0 f
Chapter 3 Natural Protein Fibers/天然蛋白质纤维 46
4 q/ q9 T5 x- R% R: u) c+ ? 3.1 Wool/绵羊毛 461 ~9 ^" p$ f) `$ w
3.1.1 Wool production and history/羊毛生产和历史 46; U; J+ v( \4 X2 [) c$ `9 }
3.1.2 Wool grading/羊毛分级 47
3 g( B( C+ w" Z3 F4 Q$ E 3.1.3 Wool structure/羊毛结构 47+ h% J0 f& w! f# m3 r; h: [
3.1.4 Wool properties/羊毛性能 48
4 V; ~' L$ J3 d* Y' v, v; B6 |$ b& e 3.2 Specialty animal fibers/特种动物毛 51$ H" F3 j; h& ~
3.3 Silk/丝 52
5 {' L' b( x5 i) t1 v9 P& j, I Questions/思考题 540 L3 M# R7 f1 Y a
Chapter 4 Man-made Fibers/化学纤维 55
4 G* \0 |6 m O; s" z 4.1 Manufacturing processing of fiber/纤维生产工艺 55
/ R# i7 d8 W m( G 4.1.1 Wet spinning/湿法纺丝 569 r8 B" O& d! M0 r
4.1.2 Dry spinning/干法纺丝 56
: z4 j7 V. U2 T& K9 E7 t 4.1.3 Melt spinning/熔体法纺丝 56
# M; x+ l& }3 g 4.1.4 Gel spinning/凝胶纺丝 57 k; M6 p2 |+ t7 u2 B
4.2 Regenerated fibers/再生纤维 57
7 J9 ^" E* d( A3 ~7 `8 o1 U 4.2.1 Acetate/醋酯纤维 57
- e- x7 @3 V% H- S 4.2.2 Triacetate/三醋酯纤维 597 w# L i* ]" }4 j1 b: Y
4.2.3 Viscose fibers/粘胶纤维 59+ G0 z& z( O J: d
4.3 Synthetic fibers/合成纤维 60/ F" N: g/ l( @& u
4.3.1 Acrylic/腈纶 609 g* O9 d! p3 S2 K2 _/ Y
4.3.2 Modacrylic/改性腈纶 61
4 a: A* r) l" c! \3 A 4.3.3 Nylon/锦纶 61
- h! t- E u0 w7 a O9 ^6 L 4.3.4 Polyester/涤纶 627 I1 |3 I! ?. o- h, |" s( J7 d; k
4.3.5 PBI/聚苯并咪唑纤维 63
6 k& T7 |- p1 T& k/ r8 G 4.3.6 Vinal/聚乙烯醇纤维 63
0 S/ j* S; e1 u# f, a$ e/ R9 |8 A 4.3.7 Olefin/聚烯烃纤维 63
: y( `* A% M+ P 4.3.8 Aramid/芳纶 64, A# W1 t2 ?1 W. o( B
4.3.9 Lycra/莱卡 64
1 w# b# t# S, J8 M* O 4.4 Other man-made fibers/其他化学纤维 66, l7 a0 n" f/ q/ m ]8 t" J
4.4.1 Glass/玻璃纤维 66/ ]$ @7 W" E b% w
4.4.2 Metallic/金属纤维 67
1 }5 i2 C# n$ V! Q# q Questions/思考题 67
& n6 N5 u) [% q! r6 M Chapter 5 New Fibers/新型纤维 68
( K3 u& Y& w) O" k, o" F4 q 5.1 Carbon fibers/碳纤维 685 [. G1 ^; x7 @
5.2 Fluorocarbon/氟碳纤维 68
# d& L8 x2 ?' X; L ` 5.3 Lyocell fibers(Tencel)/莱塞尔纤维 68 J$ a6 Y" z$ k
5.4 High-wet-modulus fibers/高湿模量纤维 697 |( N# z0 K2 I5 T0 ]) ~5 C- z4 P
5.4.1 Modal fibers/莫代尔纤维 69
' b' M; H7 h% d. R 5.4.2 Richcel/丽赛纤维 70
" ~9 s' H6 u! b0 l; P( ^ 5.5 Soybean protein composite fibers/大豆蛋白复合纤维 70
2 ?7 }) |& B9 R1 P9 ]3 j4 v 5.6 PLA fiber/聚左旋乳酸纤维 71
, h7 a5 j6 } Y6 Y9 ] 5.7 Heterogenous fibers/复合纤维 71% |# U+ x0 E% g2 O
5.7.1 Bicomponent or multicomponent/双组分或多组分 729 b3 ~! L- c" K
5.7.2 Biconstituent or multiconstituent/双成分或多成分 73
0 A6 C+ L1 \/ i( L+ I* V9 Z6 @ 5.7.3 Matrix or matrix-fibril/基质型纤维 73: a+ {) ~# F4 v5 `! ?0 v5 b7 v4 H0 v
5.8 Differential fibers/差别化纤维 74; m7 J) f" }: z8 w: q/ o
5.9 Functional fibers/功能性纤维 74
3 T2 ?, g, r& U. t/ o 5.10 High performance fibers/高性能纤维 74* v" R* ^! W/ j i/ u
Questions/思考题 74# ~/ t9 x+ L5 w
Chapter 6 The Property of Absorbing Moisture/吸湿性 75
( L' @- X; \! K9 i2 s/ F 6.1 Orientation and crystallization/取向与结晶 75
3 c: j5 |* H0 x1 B 6.2 Moisture sorption/吸湿性 75
4 R6 P7 R2 {" Q6 q' ]# ]8 E* `1 \ 6.2.1 Regain and moisture content/回潮率与含水率 75# |3 B) `. m3 _
6.2.2 Relation between regain and relative humidity/回潮率与相对湿度的关系 75
- }7 O( w) K% U- r' w 6.2.3 Comparison of various materials/不同材料吸湿性的对比 76
( E! @/ [ `0 C; t 6.2.4 Theories of moisture sorption/吸湿理论 78/ z) q! W' L7 y; e6 C9 D) c$ f1 q
Questions/思考题 80
. ^, f. `1 m0 y/ V Chapter 7 Other Physical Properties of Textile Fibers/纤维的其他物理性能 81
( ^$ Z0 R4 e( a+ h; E2 x 7.1 Electronic properties/电学性能 81
* ]) R& A7 O7 ]( N0 I 7.1.1 Definitions/定义 81: X2 T! ?1 _, j
7.2 Optical properties/光学性能 82/ q3 g8 a/ z/ t4 h% p
7.3 Thermal properties/热学性能 83
! e. n4 M3 k/ i 7.3.1 Thermal parameters/热力学参数 83
2 N# Q' V$ V9 c 7.3.2 A comparison of temperature effects/温度效应比较 83$ z5 `& I9 {5 [& g2 a: _9 M" K
Questions/思考题 83
+ Q9 b2 ]4 ~. K& P7 `Part Ⅲ Textile Yarns/纺织纱线 841 c9 a2 E/ p9 O+ Q% G8 `" a
Chapter 8 Yarn Processing and Construction/纱线制造与结构 84
& n! a2 V% {2 ]- @$ y" ^ 8.1 Spun yarns/短纤纱 85
. m; L, ` G5 \$ H. ]0 o 8.2 Filament yarns/长丝纱 85 H8 u4 S* E, T! }! @( |+ V" a
8.3 Methods of yarn processing/纺纱方法 85
/ W( c5 ^9 Y" Q ^1 J 8.3.1 Ring-spinning/环锭纺 86
4 }( e5 Z( o: x3 D2 M$ p& K6 l9 o 8.3.2 New methods of yarn processing/新型纺纱方法 86
?* Y2 j3 L; O 8.4 Single and ply yarns/单纱和股线 897 ]- x4 @) A3 D1 f& J; `- E
8.5 Special types of yarn/特种纱线 90
5 }+ Z# K: h; l# M$ \( F 8.5.1 Fancy yarns/花式纱 90 D, l9 Q4 i' H
8.5.2 Stretch yarns/弹力纱 91
% A M; i: @6 f3 Q' {4 ` 8.5.3 Textured yarns 变形纱线 91. q/ n8 z1 {2 v) e9 w6 \
8.6 Blends and mixtures yarns/纱线混纺与混用 924 k* W) q# [2 U, k4 T* g( e
Questions/思考题 93* o" n% q3 i, c
Chapter 9 Yarn Properties/纱线性能 946 t: E9 i. K: B& h6 _1 H b+ K& ^
9.1 Yarn number/纱线细度 94! d* X* O: x. h& h) A- { j' k
9.1.1 Denier system/旦数 94$ \2 j1 F( ^3 ^# j
9.1.2 Yarn count system/纱线英制支数 948 N3 Y1 t3 z6 M/ n% [3 L; K" A: s+ q
9.1.3 Tex system/线密度 95
+ |7 d. I0 Z) l6 T& U. ?7 m. Z3 V 9.1.4 Metric numbering system/公制支数 95
) {* Z( V* U" L1 f 9.1.5 Conversion in different systems/不同系统之间的换算 95
1 e3 t' L3 H' @' \, n; X5 w 9.2 Ply yarn counts and singles equivalent/股线支数与单纱支数 95, d2 G& w6 ]6 g: L9 R* K/ A& v
9.3 Yarn twist/纱线捻度 96+ n) |+ f/ i; ?* J5 O! q
9.4 Yarn hairiness/纱线毛羽 97
' }& B' Y3 Q* l, N! N$ u+ Z 9.4.1 Hairiness test method/毛羽测试方法 98
- w% m$ P; d( U2 z6 z 9.4.2 Factors affecting hairiness/影响毛羽的因素 98
4 P6 u; T9 H% i* A. g0 D 9.5 Yarn unevenness/纱线不匀 99
- T# w: D; U8 r) D 9.5.1 Test of yarn unevenness/纱线不匀的测试 998 h. ` G8 e- K) F% Z, ^0 n
9.5.2 Reasons for yarn unevenness/纱线不匀的原因 100
! z) Z9 v$ c$ x8 m9 A" n R 9.6 Classification of yarn quality/纱线质量分析 100
. b4 H N$ z N, e' \: H; _ Questions/思考题 100
4 U* T( Y3 f0 L- j, T; p2 {1 rPart Ⅳ Textile Fabrics/织物 102, `7 z" [ U; ?, I+ D/ x
Chapter 10 Woven Fabrics/机织物 102/ K- @. v- g% W [
10.1 Making woven fabrics/织制机织物 102
* N- _( T" b) |9 t: t: L J; e 10.1.1 The loom/织机 102
% a" m0 F' _6 b3 I# a* n2 [ 10.1.2 Loom type/织机类型 104$ A& [) h6 E8 M& o4 N+ Q* [
10.1.3 Loom motions/织机运动 104. v! P s, D3 q; N
10.1.4 Electronics in weaving/电子技术在织机中的应用 105
( X! `. |1 a8 Q( C, J 10.1.5 The selvage/布边 105
; i2 p; D0 Q/ }# L5 n4 [3 F 10.2 Warp yarns and filling yarns/经纱和纬纱 105
: [' b% B f k) N( L5 A 10.2.1 Identification/鉴别 106
M V4 c6 v3 y; j& U 10.3 Face and back/正面与反面 106
3 J2 O2 Q7 ]. Y7 _. W6 W& ~/ C 10.3.1 Reasons for differenee/存在差异的原因 107
h- l1 h0 w& V; Z: S" R" p! K B 10.3.2 Caution/应用的要点 107+ ^3 [. s- t, u/ d! R
10.4 Top and bottom/顶端和底端 1071 u6 V0 E$ |9 p% ~" x; }0 h8 w4 e6 ]
10.4.1 Reasons for difference/存在差异的原因 107
M, ~/ X1 m3 W% O! O# _9 Y3 d& ~ 10.5 Weave floats/组织浮线 108& f7 x3 ?: B! R/ s% _5 H$ ~
10.6 Basic weaves/基本组织 108
; |0 p8 L, e$ H. L" k5 I* p: n' C 10.6.1 Plain weave/平纹组织 108& D$ ^' J# ~# }' e; `6 h
10.6.2 Twill weave/斜纹组织 109
" P% m5 \9 d; E) U- u4 n0 V 10.6.3 Satin weave/缎纹组织 1113 w o. Q7 A: C& h) c! e2 l
10.7 Fabric performance and characteristics/织物性能和参数 112
( x5 R7 j ?- z0 [/ W" h 10.7.1 Fabric width/幅宽 1125 @2 ?; u+ c) c* i
10.7.2 Fabric weight/织物重量 112+ D- P5 B3 p+ H( H' |8 v( o: J9 E7 J
10.7.3 Fabric thickness/织物厚度 1137 \! i) W# y7 b) E
10.7.4 Fabric density/织物密度 1137 {# ?0 U4 ]. n- x
10.7.5 Fabric count/织物经纬密度 113
& Y# y8 R" v0 ^% I' C# ^0 j6 V4 z x 10.7.6 Fabric defects/织物疵点 113
& L# J) r6 Z1 j4 y# r( O Questions/思考题 113: {+ w+ U9 [+ o _9 \- l' M
Chapter 11 Knitted Fabrics/针织物 114
0 i$ o$ ^" n2 D" |9 b# U- |2 R- ]' } 11.1 Making of knitted fabric/针织物形成 114
5 R. W$ H0 u5 h! x. [4 O 11.1.1 The forming of knitted stitches/线圈的形成 114
- O: @$ w' }3 L* m8 j 11.1.2 Types of knitted stitches/线圈的种类 116( o- ^4 S( f+ ]( y
11.2 Weft knits/纬编针织物 117( e4 l: E$ K& B* c9 J
11.2.1 Jersey knit fabric/纬平针织物 117
$ q1 [$ q- _0 O1 t5 R 11.2.2 Rib knit fabric/罗纹针织物 118
* S m( X/ G8 O 11.2.3 Purl knit fabric/双反面针织物 119& ~; P4 x, B2 X
11.2.4 Double knits/双面针织物 120$ s3 K1 i8 R8 l- E8 r$ N
11.2.5 Full-fashioned knits/全成形针织物 120
/ _+ @& d6 J9 Q. Z5 i 11.3 Warp knits/经编针织物 121( i- @. y4 f9 O5 ]
11.3.1 Tricot fabrics/特里科经编针织物 121; h$ Y, Y5 T% A$ M
11.3.2 Raschel fabrics/拉舍尔经编针织物 1226 R) i6 ]; h( r4 {+ W* R) Q5 x
11.4 Performance and characteristics/性能和参数 122
/ g, m* \% y( k! @' u- |* e Questions/思考题 123# s0 ]* ^! F- ?; u
Chapter 12 Nonwoven Fabrics/非织造布 124
' S! w3 A5 z% q! v8 k 12.1 Introduction/导论 124
n9 S) n* ?3 } 12.2 Manufacturing methods/生产方法 125
- K. S9 W y6 R 12.2.1 Dry laid system/干法成网 125
f0 q: i; b! H" p, P 12.2.2 Wet laid system/湿法成网 125: R; E" ~( ]& E$ a3 R8 }# G2 `& \* f
12.2.3 Polymer laid system/聚合物挤压法 125
. v# O" S0 Q1 j R 12.3 Various nonwovens/各种非织造布 125
E# z; \$ f; R' S' }; O3 I! I, N9 d 12.3.1 Needle punched nonwovens/针刺法非织造布 125
( W O F+ E! F" Y 12.3.2 Bonded web nonwovens/黏合法非织造布 126+ R1 C+ ?$ N! M* D( e" |1 `; r
12.3.3 Spunlaced nonwovens/射流喷网法非织造布 127
0 n( I' x U7 K* \5 A H, x 12.3.4 Spunbonded nonwovens/纺粘法非织造布 128* } R8 V5 n- A
12.3.5 Melt-blown nonwovens/熔喷法非织造布 129
4 W' l$ Q% X3 _" _3 c. X' p& } Questions/思考题 129
8 E- G& }) e: o5 iPart Ⅴ Textile Testing/纺织品测试 1307 X! q# {: t- X. m
Chapter 13 General Test Methods/常规测试方法 130
( [* P3 H, V" ~! _" K4 ? 13.1 General fiber tests/纤维常规测试 130
' M& M; |. t' N( q 13.1.1 Fiber identification/纤维鉴别 130 ]+ I; g6 C6 v, w4 i; E
13.1.2 Fiber length/纤维长度 134, b4 w5 p( E* Q) [
13.1.3 Fiber fineness or linear density/纤维细度或线密度 135
9 h8 b1 K: Y: Z( `$ p 13.1.4 Cross-sectional shape/截面形状 1353 K$ F+ O0 L1 _1 Q
13.1.5 Crimp/卷曲 1355 Y( A, Y3 r/ p4 Z
13.1.6 Regain/回潮率 136- ]4 [4 i0 ]" [, Z
13.1.7 Mechanical properties/机械性能 136! S( y* s2 \; F. F7 N8 l/ c
13.1.8 Chemical characteristics/化学性能 136! q" S X% N0 x( i
13.1.9 Surface characteristics/表面性能 136
$ O. Q. R$ i# J 13.1.10 Density and specific gravity/密度和相对密度 1379 Z- B' w i, V) Y" ?* ^
13.2 Special tests for natural fibers/天然纤维的测试 1370 w# q5 b i8 O Y7 q5 p
13.2.1 Tests for cotton/棉纤维测试 137
& T5 ?( C) z d7 U: Y1 x7 _% Y2 N 13.2.2 Tests for wool/毛纤维测试 139: M+ }9 r- n* @. q: g7 K. i8 n2 p
13.3 Testing of tensile properties/拉伸性能测试 140$ A& s w" P* P1 e; i
13.3.1 Description of tensile proprieties/拉伸性能的描述 1411 }. M. J% O# r P7 \0 I
13.3.2 Fiber and yarn tensile testing/纤维和纱线拉伸性能的测试 146- a' ?3 t$ v6 I
13.3.3 Fabric tensile testing/织物拉伸性能测试方法 1472 J' H- Y# t9 p
Questions/思考题 149# v6 s8 r: e$ V
Chapter 14 Fabric Abrasion and Pilling/织物磨损与起球 150
1 o9 w( n) E4 G( ~4 c5 Q# | 14.1 Types of abrasion/磨损的类型 150
7 A, I/ l+ u3 ? C4 K$ _ 14.1.1 Abrasion between fabrics/织物间的磨损 1502 r+ ^2 @: G0 ]) i7 y' q1 |
14.1.2 Abrasion between fabric and a nontextile surface/织物与非纤维制品表面磨损 150
- x" \3 K( i5 X8 E! u 14.1.3 Abrasion within fabric/织物内部磨损 151" D4 X3 P8 B( Q0 b- u
14.1.4 Abrasion by foreign materials within the fabric/与织物内部其他材料的磨损 1519 r4 l/ w( |4 {& Z- a! B d
14.2 Factors affecting fabric abrasion resistance/影响耐磨性能的因素 151
+ l: p1 U# d3 H3 t. Z9 r# h2 B 14.2.1 Fabric properties/织物性能 151
4 c! I* O$ E$ o9 M. p* s! g5 L 14.2.2 Other factors/其他因素 1530 Q' c) G \- d3 |! F
14.3 Abrasion testing/磨损测试 154
' i0 T8 Q5 L+ s: [4 l4 d: P 14.3.1 Visual comparison with an unabraded specimen/与未磨损样品视觉对比 1548 d8 u2 U4 l$ v
14.3.2 Number of cycles to produce a hole/产生磨损破洞需要的摩擦圈数 154
5 D z' o, \4 {8 P. P& s8 r) W( m 14.3.3 Change in a physical property/物理性能的变化 154$ o, |9 K/ i) h% o, M9 \8 R
14.3.4 Microscopic examination/显微镜观测 155
$ I) d9 d) E2 w# ?; U 14.4 Aesthetics of abrasion and wear/穿着和磨损对美感的影响 155
r9 d+ @* k% d" r 14.4.1 Color changes caused by abrasion/磨损引起的颜色变化 155( o" T1 `3 k$ S
14.4.2 Pilling/起球 156
. T# J/ f* [4 t( E2 ^8 U8 { Questions/思考题 157
* G3 G x$ i8 K/ K6 F Chapter 15 Fabric Hand and Drape/织物手感与悬垂 1581 `3 a/ x: g2 K) _ k1 S7 H& y
15.1 Fabric hand/织物手感 158 _/ A% \5 e& \, i# {9 _5 Z0 H* d+ O
15.2 Fabric drape/织物悬垂 159
! j) E% q4 `& q8 l; A: M, ?: o# B 15.3 Measurement of hand and drape/手感与悬垂的评价 161" F2 b7 G5 W' g4 a* B M
15.3.1 Subjective evaluation/主观评定法 161
; ^* t+ v. m1 C. G9 k1 h+ u4 f 15.3.2 Quantitative measurement/定量评定法 162$ p4 ^! ^. E8 b9 B1 ^8 L8 u! w
15.3.3 Kawabata evaluation system/KES评定法 163! C/ b* V4 {' Y
Questions/思考题 163
& t8 l8 v, N5 q. C Chapter 16 Fabric Colorfastness/织物染色牢度 164
: Z' d) o4 B5 j1 u+ n) F 16.1 Evaluation of color and colorfastness/颜色和染色牢度评定方法 164: q8 F7 B' h1 Z: e& j
16.2 Colorfastness tests/染色牢度测试 164
. c( `; o9 m# @; e 16.2.1 Colorfastness to crocking/耐摩擦色牢度 164, R' M I& Y0 k! O6 t
16.2.2 Colorfastness to laundering and bleaching/耐洗涤和耐漂白色牢 1656 \, V& K, @) C- B& p' l! a. u
16.2.3 Colorfastness to drycleaning/耐干洗色牢度 166
( [& |- t4 C6 e8 [, ] y 16.2.4 Colorfastness to perspiration/耐汗渍色牢度 166
1 E, E7 U7 u# _* r3 s 16.2.5 Colorfastness to water/耐水浸色牢度 166
2 G- j5 i2 i7 t/ `. k 16.2.6 Colorfastness to light/耐光照色牢度 167; q3 X$ j; N# u! M0 m
16.2.7 Colorfastness to atmospheric contaminants/耐空气污染色牢度 1681 R2 N$ a% R! f1 }3 {% O
Questions/思考题 168
9 u/ K5 z2 c3 g1 H6 W! n* X2 Y Chapter 17 Fabric Flammability/织物可燃性 169
7 c4 ~9 ]1 e& R, @ 17.1 Flammability standards/可燃性标准 169
5 Q/ e# W* w! ^ g( @5 S' |" [ 17.2 Properties affecting flammability/影响可燃性的因素 169
' @6 {( Z) f/ h' j: ] 17.3 Flammability testing/可燃性测试 171' O. \2 L; T3 n/ X
17.3.1 Forty-five degree angle test/45°燃烧测试法 171
* k! ?& J3 ^. l0 z/ X 17.3.2 Vertical flame tests/垂直燃烧测试法 172
$ E7 t3 V, K3 \' l 17.3.3 Carpet testing/地毯测试 172, F& O5 U8 _0 P0 V- i
17.3.4 Cigarette tests/卷烟点燃测试 172: ~! _ k1 a- q, f$ |! u
17.3.5 Other standard flammability tests/其他可燃性测试 1738 D }3 \0 G, F: O
Questions/思考题 173$ |2 }8 M7 j! i" i( e( D: D: P
Chapter 18 Comfort of Textiles/纺织品舒适性 174! l f& `5 X* ~
18.1 Physical phenomena affecting thermal comfort/影响热舒适性能的物理现象 174
0 M# [7 p$ L* j 18.1.1 Heat transfer/热传递 174+ z! O8 X1 @9 i" Y" }& \$ z# r
18.1.2 Moisture transfer/湿传递 175. F9 O+ n5 F) j+ M' j" x
18.1.3 Water resistance/抗水性 1756 R. B$ Q: R: A
18.1.4 Air transfer/透气性 1763 F. R/ C% a# n. t. T
18.1.5 Porosity and cover factor/多孔性和覆盖系数 176
) R$ K% _+ M- A% H' D2 k$ E 18.1.6 Electrostatic propensity/静电 177
$ n* T% M- K7 W$ X; m0 V, K 18.2 Evaluations of textile properties related to comfort/与舒适性相关的纺织品性能评价 177, P9 O# J6 Q9 l/ b5 q7 ^: x7 a: y
18.2.1 Heat transfer/热传递 178
' \3 H- K) h4 E* y& Q4 g 18.2.2 Moisture properties/湿传递性能 179
7 _( ?2 q2 S3 a$ b { 18.2.3 Air permeability/透气性 179+ @) N* ]7 n1 K9 f/ f
18.2.4 Porosity/孔隙率 180
$ f, D; Q# c% W! S, | 18.2.5 Electrostatic tests/静电测试 180; d9 [4 v3 w0 z% Q1 _3 Q
Questions/思考题 180
* m) d" Q$ X( ^ N, \' c9 h0 bAppendix/附录 181
- q& w6 \# N, l9 y; A0 m AATCC:AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS/美国纺织化学家与染色家协会 1814 ~2 w& t: b4 ?- C5 E* v* D# @* S
ASTM:AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR TESTING AND MATERIALS/美国材料试验学会 184' c1 f' S; |5 U. s
Vocabulary/词汇表 189' n B3 f$ S' L" S6 m
References/参考文献 1972 V# d' H5 v* Q3 j- u8 V* h
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