
纺织材料学(双语教材),刘妍,熊磊,PDF。普通高等教育“十一五”国家级规划教材(本科),纺织工程专业双语教材,电子目录,14M。
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3 }( [2 q# Q) w- ? h' q$ w/ v' x内容提要
O% x* t& x; [/ A# m8 Z0 e本书讨论了纤维、纱线与织物(包括机织物、针织物及非织造布)的结构、机械性能、物理性能及使用性能。涉及的纤维势括天然纤维(如棉、毛、麻、丝等)、传统化学纤维及新型化学纤维。本书同时介绍了纤维、纱线和织物的各种标准测试方法(包括国际上常用的ASTM, AATCC及GB等方法),并讨论了与各种测试方法有关的测试原理及对测试结果的影响因素。1 [$ [; p& L5 r& s4 X; x
本书可供高等纺织院校纺织、服装相关专业的本科生及研究生作为《纺织材料学》的双语教材或专业英语教材,也可供其他专业师生、纺织贸易专业人员和科研及生产单位的技术人员参考。+ N5 |4 T/ T( e
目录% l+ S \# m d- o7 U
Part Ⅰ An Introduction to Textiles/纺织入门 18
( f+ a8 l3 C5 k& U. O6 Y8 G Chapter 1 Introduction/介绍 18: b) v) e/ p' p
1.1 ASTM Standard Terminology Relating to Textiles/ASTM纺织标准术语 18# ^$ C" T0 L. S7 Z
1.2 Fiber history/纤维历史 26: {% m5 O2 e, q; |# [; B, H
1.2.1 Natural fibers/天然纤维 26; j$ s6 S% z0 {4 D
1.2.2 Man-made fibers/化学纤维 273 F; F. o9 `+ z, \) H1 w
Questions/思考题 30. ?6 o0 D) F0 p* R. o& U3 S4 v% n
Part Ⅱ Textile Fibers/纺织纤维 32
8 s {* a8 J1 q; |) `) \ Chapter 2 Natural Cellulosic Fibers/天然纤维素纤维 32& o$ \; r3 S' s& s1 W8 r# {# B
2.1 Cotton/棉 332 X4 u% h4 @) i7 P- R7 _1 t5 j5 a' o
2.1.1 Nature of cotton/棉花的种类 338 L$ w' R C5 F( G$ x- D
2.1.2 Classification/分类 34$ E+ W8 L5 p4 L4 c" T- E k
2.1.3 Growth and structure of cotton/棉纤维的生长与结构 346 a7 _9 C- }9 A$ a9 o: S
2.1.4 Maturity/成熟度 366 T8 m: O" d" L; p& [ j8 q
2.1.5 Cotton properties/棉纤维的性能 388 C6 `; `* p& f
2.1.6 Cotton classification/棉花分级 39
& i( B1 b5 e6 W' {/ U7 }8 [- i8 Z 2.2 Bast fibers/韧皮纤维 40
7 K- D* n1 Q; S: a 2.2.1 Flax (linen)/亚麻,亚麻织物 41
+ @1 \ {$ R% s! k' P 2.2.2 Ramie/苎麻 43 S/ _9 c- g2 t f( p
2.2.3 Hemp/汉麻 449 W: B" }% i# m3 a. k3 A
2.2.4 Jute/黄麻 44
" M' U2 X# h) G3 t3 S5 t( f) X Questions/思考题 45! x' N/ ^: y5 e0 @8 z8 `* h
Chapter 3 Natural Protein Fibers/天然蛋白质纤维 464 J6 k7 ?, f: s4 }
3.1 Wool/绵羊毛 467 ]2 G; l- u. e+ w. n
3.1.1 Wool production and history/羊毛生产和历史 46
9 n9 ?& ~3 s% N5 U2 q 3.1.2 Wool grading/羊毛分级 47% n/ {7 p4 I# k" d y; Y7 e2 I
3.1.3 Wool structure/羊毛结构 47
+ s6 r: Y- y$ Z2 W W" C; u 3.1.4 Wool properties/羊毛性能 48
4 N& E- D. \. @7 v: Y& q 3.2 Specialty animal fibers/特种动物毛 51
6 }' t1 s& b9 M9 r' n3 N 3.3 Silk/丝 52! t4 p, B+ l# L# a. H$ H! C* f+ c
Questions/思考题 54( H/ _' A @( n! p; ^3 u0 l6 }" F
Chapter 4 Man-made Fibers/化学纤维 55
# y- L) f- u3 F8 {. k6 z( u1 O 4.1 Manufacturing processing of fiber/纤维生产工艺 55
) ]+ _$ d) `; M8 @# U J/ a 4.1.1 Wet spinning/湿法纺丝 56" g! U( u, R0 I5 z+ x! n3 `
4.1.2 Dry spinning/干法纺丝 56
" ~. S7 W5 N! `3 I `6 c. {* M! V& V 4.1.3 Melt spinning/熔体法纺丝 560 _* _5 a: b6 P/ |& Z
4.1.4 Gel spinning/凝胶纺丝 57
7 X ^; M4 n" @( s' s 4.2 Regenerated fibers/再生纤维 57! K6 C4 z6 D0 _5 J2 ` s# `* u
4.2.1 Acetate/醋酯纤维 57
' `* _$ u& o& O& U( X, H, K 4.2.2 Triacetate/三醋酯纤维 59! l# c7 N, U' s
4.2.3 Viscose fibers/粘胶纤维 59 `; B2 ~ Y" ]" U
4.3 Synthetic fibers/合成纤维 60
; [$ d- _9 n$ k8 I' k. f8 d" w% ` 4.3.1 Acrylic/腈纶 60: L$ E; p" W1 ?& J* D2 Z4 B1 _& g
4.3.2 Modacrylic/改性腈纶 610 n; q. {" m* r
4.3.3 Nylon/锦纶 61( X& B' a; j: T) Y
4.3.4 Polyester/涤纶 62$ g# t. k0 c9 _2 r8 i0 A
4.3.5 PBI/聚苯并咪唑纤维 638 `! b: l# v! x% z
4.3.6 Vinal/聚乙烯醇纤维 63
% ~4 I. t) y& {+ y6 W: Y 4.3.7 Olefin/聚烯烃纤维 63' E3 _0 x' x9 \2 f3 @3 _3 j
4.3.8 Aramid/芳纶 64+ ?) r$ U0 c# l ^
4.3.9 Lycra/莱卡 64
/ C5 s- _( W( G4 H2 m& I 4.4 Other man-made fibers/其他化学纤维 66; O/ K6 k8 }, |# Z% W7 L4 r/ A
4.4.1 Glass/玻璃纤维 66
+ _, R: P0 ^; `! f3 y+ ~ 4.4.2 Metallic/金属纤维 67 x* _ |: e) q' G, r9 J
Questions/思考题 67* c; g: Z. [9 |. ?) \" I
Chapter 5 New Fibers/新型纤维 680 b# _5 ]; v. ?. k
5.1 Carbon fibers/碳纤维 68
7 n- D. C& s: I2 \' q 5.2 Fluorocarbon/氟碳纤维 68
[! o! L I. c0 n* [ 5.3 Lyocell fibers(Tencel)/莱塞尔纤维 68
J# s4 n0 X) l1 E* q3 G 5.4 High-wet-modulus fibers/高湿模量纤维 69
: K' ]$ O B8 V9 A/ F 5.4.1 Modal fibers/莫代尔纤维 69
% U6 Q, y# {8 ?3 {/ _1 Z2 S 5.4.2 Richcel/丽赛纤维 70! m+ a. j& ?% f, m* d
5.5 Soybean protein composite fibers/大豆蛋白复合纤维 70
4 A: y) d1 C: k! d6 b4 K 5.6 PLA fiber/聚左旋乳酸纤维 71# r3 j9 x$ T0 T$ E; K- |0 U# q! l
5.7 Heterogenous fibers/复合纤维 71
. R1 J1 Q/ v* P. ] 5.7.1 Bicomponent or multicomponent/双组分或多组分 72
) c4 B" v o$ F0 J 5.7.2 Biconstituent or multiconstituent/双成分或多成分 737 o/ C8 ?3 V6 x' d
5.7.3 Matrix or matrix-fibril/基质型纤维 73; Z M4 o+ y$ a1 x0 O) N/ L9 p
5.8 Differential fibers/差别化纤维 74. X3 V. t0 e% ~) u! k" }9 u( O
5.9 Functional fibers/功能性纤维 74/ J0 L1 F" W/ J3 s
5.10 High performance fibers/高性能纤维 740 k7 j# x) l8 ^8 l2 [
Questions/思考题 74& f) f6 H, C" G9 y3 I
Chapter 6 The Property of Absorbing Moisture/吸湿性 75
( s2 L3 ]& B$ W" g/ j 6.1 Orientation and crystallization/取向与结晶 755 o) X1 s7 o, v
6.2 Moisture sorption/吸湿性 75
: i b. D! R# N. x6 k. I 6.2.1 Regain and moisture content/回潮率与含水率 75
' Y/ ~1 F* Y) l7 u. A* s: e$ W# A 6.2.2 Relation between regain and relative humidity/回潮率与相对湿度的关系 75
* {9 T1 r. D7 ?/ v+ ]& \7 X: } 6.2.3 Comparison of various materials/不同材料吸湿性的对比 768 n4 f; G. c" n4 ?( u/ l
6.2.4 Theories of moisture sorption/吸湿理论 78
3 T. C- w- ^# h# F+ X) T1 C# @) L" b Questions/思考题 80/ _/ m ]( Z% @+ k8 X, J
Chapter 7 Other Physical Properties of Textile Fibers/纤维的其他物理性能 81
/ o+ S# z1 o& d" b 7.1 Electronic properties/电学性能 817 ^. z- Z' m8 u6 `# ]
7.1.1 Definitions/定义 81& H0 K. i2 N- h2 y. J; V$ i
7.2 Optical properties/光学性能 82
4 w) [. W( ?# U2 d5 R/ Z$ s0 @ 7.3 Thermal properties/热学性能 83! n2 ~8 @, U+ X' D# ~ e- T8 `
7.3.1 Thermal parameters/热力学参数 834 Y' ~' j/ ?1 q4 J2 [1 `/ R
7.3.2 A comparison of temperature effects/温度效应比较 833 H# U$ i7 _. ]' F; M0 j. R9 J
Questions/思考题 83
* r2 v* k* F& n' c' HPart Ⅲ Textile Yarns/纺织纱线 84
. T D$ f3 x6 m8 o5 [) s* L Chapter 8 Yarn Processing and Construction/纱线制造与结构 84" r9 u1 @; W, n5 }& x
8.1 Spun yarns/短纤纱 855 ]/ }6 |2 b- D; d
8.2 Filament yarns/长丝纱 85
, G& }0 x1 \( c/ w% P* ~ 8.3 Methods of yarn processing/纺纱方法 854 c, w/ P2 E7 ~4 Y
8.3.1 Ring-spinning/环锭纺 86; V! O6 O1 h+ y3 @! q
8.3.2 New methods of yarn processing/新型纺纱方法 86/ ?) R# _; c9 R; G9 h
8.4 Single and ply yarns/单纱和股线 89( B! g2 Y, I' B# q5 Y& F4 @
8.5 Special types of yarn/特种纱线 90
* i0 P; k; p9 Y+ @+ {- A9 X 8.5.1 Fancy yarns/花式纱 90
" U* o2 ]% O1 q) H! U: z4 x 8.5.2 Stretch yarns/弹力纱 91- H2 W( @! G" n$ K, ?
8.5.3 Textured yarns 变形纱线 91
9 v( `/ n9 `% e( G3 \- e. N- R 8.6 Blends and mixtures yarns/纱线混纺与混用 92
2 |) ?2 z8 b8 j% K& q Questions/思考题 93
2 m& m2 [1 ^ U% K6 x4 J. m6 T% ` Chapter 9 Yarn Properties/纱线性能 94( K9 Z L0 m' L2 u& x4 Y3 k4 F6 q% D
9.1 Yarn number/纱线细度 94
" q, ?! x1 }) d: t6 v 9.1.1 Denier system/旦数 94
* k" n9 A3 f! i( [& W 9.1.2 Yarn count system/纱线英制支数 94! y9 y' U- s: ]. A/ a- S
9.1.3 Tex system/线密度 95
9 S m f5 M- ] m 9.1.4 Metric numbering system/公制支数 95
) c; }! e4 z5 d' T( B' l 9.1.5 Conversion in different systems/不同系统之间的换算 95
: K @) @/ Y! c 9.2 Ply yarn counts and singles equivalent/股线支数与单纱支数 955 x# K( a1 n2 v3 Q; B* @: ~* l
9.3 Yarn twist/纱线捻度 96
) N3 A& s5 h, T# [5 ?1 l( [0 y) f- F 9.4 Yarn hairiness/纱线毛羽 97' p; ^ u5 w% a2 p
9.4.1 Hairiness test method/毛羽测试方法 98
. P* c+ F! d9 |% O1 c 9.4.2 Factors affecting hairiness/影响毛羽的因素 984 B- J& |' Z* l- l& K0 G5 }
9.5 Yarn unevenness/纱线不匀 994 G, y* g4 [* H8 L; o; O+ l+ ~/ ?
9.5.1 Test of yarn unevenness/纱线不匀的测试 99
3 l/ V& o/ Z6 f* _' n9 b8 ^ 9.5.2 Reasons for yarn unevenness/纱线不匀的原因 100
8 [' Y7 t/ q- [2 d" Z 9.6 Classification of yarn quality/纱线质量分析 100
! N. H/ A5 I3 B5 U3 r! W. x Questions/思考题 100
! |- ~; I4 X p- FPart Ⅳ Textile Fabrics/织物 102
; G* K" t0 `) R I6 D* F2 h Chapter 10 Woven Fabrics/机织物 1029 E! b2 j) _' r
10.1 Making woven fabrics/织制机织物 1022 e# i; H/ j: b6 u8 e% u8 Z
10.1.1 The loom/织机 102" ?- J$ v) T+ {# C3 g
10.1.2 Loom type/织机类型 104
* r2 h0 x# v3 L& u( Z 10.1.3 Loom motions/织机运动 104: c( g! ^+ y' V2 _* ^
10.1.4 Electronics in weaving/电子技术在织机中的应用 1054 G; D! C3 M' c. |
10.1.5 The selvage/布边 105
% l# d( k) s0 u6 Q 10.2 Warp yarns and filling yarns/经纱和纬纱 105
! o9 {; B9 _; y: X* w+ V* L 10.2.1 Identification/鉴别 106
( K& h! n/ b; O# J8 N 10.3 Face and back/正面与反面 106
- H2 H& A9 t) A9 Y" Z# M2 \ 10.3.1 Reasons for differenee/存在差异的原因 107
' M1 t! x: n7 ^/ V B: V8 b 10.3.2 Caution/应用的要点 107) h( k8 `8 A$ L( N
10.4 Top and bottom/顶端和底端 107# Y3 g5 Q2 s# u8 b- s
10.4.1 Reasons for difference/存在差异的原因 107( W' U) }! p: T* Z
10.5 Weave floats/组织浮线 108
- q1 `4 K/ }2 { 10.6 Basic weaves/基本组织 108
* g* B+ s+ L% O3 f9 P* X. v) p 10.6.1 Plain weave/平纹组织 108
) Z# q# j* S. G6 F' D 10.6.2 Twill weave/斜纹组织 109* R" U; r1 {2 L; c9 L
10.6.3 Satin weave/缎纹组织 111
% n+ \. N/ E! q0 y" w1 N7 b8 I- l 10.7 Fabric performance and characteristics/织物性能和参数 112
- y/ n. K) B p1 n 10.7.1 Fabric width/幅宽 112
8 }/ x+ B& Y1 ^7 A% l0 m 10.7.2 Fabric weight/织物重量 112
) B4 Y Q) q3 C8 o2 a 10.7.3 Fabric thickness/织物厚度 113
3 u; d! f( w# q, _3 z- ^ 10.7.4 Fabric density/织物密度 113
+ I4 C2 J; \" \$ e 10.7.5 Fabric count/织物经纬密度 113
; ^1 l7 J, _; w- y$ t1 x8 G; i 10.7.6 Fabric defects/织物疵点 113$ e. b' Y6 V% {
Questions/思考题 113, n6 r) P# c- k, Q$ c( I9 @
Chapter 11 Knitted Fabrics/针织物 114
1 M. x: Z* |: D0 i! V1 A) b 11.1 Making of knitted fabric/针织物形成 114: h# @. R; O0 ^
11.1.1 The forming of knitted stitches/线圈的形成 114
1 r- V9 @" H+ @' @ 11.1.2 Types of knitted stitches/线圈的种类 116" R5 }5 a5 Z9 U' H
11.2 Weft knits/纬编针织物 1171 D% {4 _4 G' ?$ \% L% ^
11.2.1 Jersey knit fabric/纬平针织物 117
+ v0 _0 H) X/ z 11.2.2 Rib knit fabric/罗纹针织物 118
+ _& z" Q# T8 I 11.2.3 Purl knit fabric/双反面针织物 119
5 V( O/ q9 i, }: x, K- z 11.2.4 Double knits/双面针织物 1201 Z5 h0 i; `' A* a9 m- M$ R! `) y" ~
11.2.5 Full-fashioned knits/全成形针织物 120
+ n5 n! y* G, Y" P0 M S 11.3 Warp knits/经编针织物 121
5 v3 w: Z# m& |, Y& R5 u+ ` 11.3.1 Tricot fabrics/特里科经编针织物 121
8 Z L8 P; g' [" p0 C4 n! c 11.3.2 Raschel fabrics/拉舍尔经编针织物 122' C$ Y8 x# B/ x! {9 s8 s0 I$ c
11.4 Performance and characteristics/性能和参数 1220 |4 @1 O* a( H: h
Questions/思考题 123' ?) X- y" C9 o: J# _; I2 i
Chapter 12 Nonwoven Fabrics/非织造布 124
! z9 Y5 X" f: z7 ? 12.1 Introduction/导论 124
. @0 _7 g' ~8 n) Y5 Y& s, P5 | 12.2 Manufacturing methods/生产方法 1254 g9 a7 D6 _. p, h! `) s( t
12.2.1 Dry laid system/干法成网 125' o8 L7 W& E% Q5 D
12.2.2 Wet laid system/湿法成网 125 n( V0 I: M; d6 V# U w- V
12.2.3 Polymer laid system/聚合物挤压法 125
4 W# l0 B9 _: Q7 i8 _ 12.3 Various nonwovens/各种非织造布 1256 _" f( f5 u, M. N% Z0 @
12.3.1 Needle punched nonwovens/针刺法非织造布 1252 W9 G3 a2 h+ v. V r
12.3.2 Bonded web nonwovens/黏合法非织造布 126; W: n/ {1 G6 c, T* { g: v9 C1 l
12.3.3 Spunlaced nonwovens/射流喷网法非织造布 1270 n! U% U3 W/ S8 c: d) v7 M1 E
12.3.4 Spunbonded nonwovens/纺粘法非织造布 1288 @+ v1 r/ e' E* I, c8 A" V
12.3.5 Melt-blown nonwovens/熔喷法非织造布 129 [7 s% a3 l5 Z* v4 r% m( L0 V% X
Questions/思考题 129
3 K9 y( D0 X7 T: Q; \3 [Part Ⅴ Textile Testing/纺织品测试 130
) H* y) V' G. x/ `. ?8 u Chapter 13 General Test Methods/常规测试方法 130
) F+ r% H3 _, H* n2 }* J 13.1 General fiber tests/纤维常规测试 1302 c. q# m! S2 g9 q9 Z
13.1.1 Fiber identification/纤维鉴别 130, k1 D; o7 h' ^6 c* a7 Q. r0 P
13.1.2 Fiber length/纤维长度 134
, S" b; r2 `/ k; j1 h. i/ M: c9 X- I 13.1.3 Fiber fineness or linear density/纤维细度或线密度 135
; s' @6 Q* H2 a. G p1 m 13.1.4 Cross-sectional shape/截面形状 135: J9 ?. @3 E) l
13.1.5 Crimp/卷曲 135- C1 V- _+ \- f5 ?
13.1.6 Regain/回潮率 1361 k5 [8 U+ V2 Y7 K+ e
13.1.7 Mechanical properties/机械性能 136
7 O9 a7 Q4 ?/ d/ @$ c 13.1.8 Chemical characteristics/化学性能 136
( c+ ^) ^( [1 `7 l+ {% U; y- H0 ?( n 13.1.9 Surface characteristics/表面性能 136- C! v! Z$ g9 k) K( _' p9 A: M
13.1.10 Density and specific gravity/密度和相对密度 137
- B! S& j8 U9 _9 [9 v0 t 13.2 Special tests for natural fibers/天然纤维的测试 137" E7 r8 o/ K% h9 C F0 {3 v4 g
13.2.1 Tests for cotton/棉纤维测试 137
1 H) u/ _, Q' j! U5 G3 h( y 13.2.2 Tests for wool/毛纤维测试 139. n7 _- p, k, }9 |6 c7 K* N
13.3 Testing of tensile properties/拉伸性能测试 140
" o$ Q" p& f: \: y2 x; t, G7 v 13.3.1 Description of tensile proprieties/拉伸性能的描述 141
+ k4 G5 S# B; v- e* _0 }9 o2 y8 X 13.3.2 Fiber and yarn tensile testing/纤维和纱线拉伸性能的测试 146
# r1 R2 D2 B/ f) z 13.3.3 Fabric tensile testing/织物拉伸性能测试方法 1479 z" d" ~* Y, L6 O* i p8 l
Questions/思考题 149: t @0 a# v' r6 S7 x& x+ i+ @
Chapter 14 Fabric Abrasion and Pilling/织物磨损与起球 150
, H& v, e: l+ W- u& f3 q6 _; R 14.1 Types of abrasion/磨损的类型 150+ L# U/ ?7 d* O: `& Y9 O# q) F/ a
14.1.1 Abrasion between fabrics/织物间的磨损 150! v7 c0 R r4 R8 r0 P4 K
14.1.2 Abrasion between fabric and a nontextile surface/织物与非纤维制品表面磨损 150! ~) q1 f: c9 z8 K: H5 o" s8 A5 ?
14.1.3 Abrasion within fabric/织物内部磨损 151) K. B- c7 Z/ v
14.1.4 Abrasion by foreign materials within the fabric/与织物内部其他材料的磨损 151
* G: Z* _! u z, ]' m 14.2 Factors affecting fabric abrasion resistance/影响耐磨性能的因素 151
; {: R1 Y- M7 ^/ F: \* m 14.2.1 Fabric properties/织物性能 151
, i. y+ m0 }% m$ k7 _( m 14.2.2 Other factors/其他因素 153
; E& o- P( F6 | 14.3 Abrasion testing/磨损测试 154
7 j' n* D; B3 o, u0 \" ? 14.3.1 Visual comparison with an unabraded specimen/与未磨损样品视觉对比 154
% p3 z0 ~9 g n 14.3.2 Number of cycles to produce a hole/产生磨损破洞需要的摩擦圈数 154
% T" {! c8 i( Z; [, d4 d 14.3.3 Change in a physical property/物理性能的变化 154( D! e5 s. j0 D) Z9 v- z$ N
14.3.4 Microscopic examination/显微镜观测 155
, B0 M% G0 N4 h: B, I 14.4 Aesthetics of abrasion and wear/穿着和磨损对美感的影响 155
7 M/ a+ C: w, [; ~8 N0 R6 P 14.4.1 Color changes caused by abrasion/磨损引起的颜色变化 155! R* @( t, w# v5 |, a
14.4.2 Pilling/起球 156
9 f/ ]% Y& @( _ Questions/思考题 1579 M# F' [" O& |0 O# [
Chapter 15 Fabric Hand and Drape/织物手感与悬垂 158% t3 h$ \0 T& t- o" i2 Y
15.1 Fabric hand/织物手感 158/ U; s" i* ^$ m4 m: P6 r) G
15.2 Fabric drape/织物悬垂 159
# V/ a2 l, a! f* @5 M+ r 15.3 Measurement of hand and drape/手感与悬垂的评价 161; A0 H* E9 s6 \5 s& `( f- X7 Z
15.3.1 Subjective evaluation/主观评定法 161
" X5 T- N1 I6 a+ b j+ v3 H 15.3.2 Quantitative measurement/定量评定法 162
5 t4 N' W6 l! D& x$ _! X; U# |2 V5 @ 15.3.3 Kawabata evaluation system/KES评定法 163
' j) O4 [! O) d ]. U b+ e) h Questions/思考题 163
& f2 g, m* k: z0 U, R3 u% e- m0 d Chapter 16 Fabric Colorfastness/织物染色牢度 1642 Y7 L* U& {( I
16.1 Evaluation of color and colorfastness/颜色和染色牢度评定方法 164! q" Q# X5 J7 [& D3 l, }
16.2 Colorfastness tests/染色牢度测试 164
2 c; |) O( d# t* l1 ^. t4 Q 16.2.1 Colorfastness to crocking/耐摩擦色牢度 1643 [: h, H+ D4 U& e) V# D6 C
16.2.2 Colorfastness to laundering and bleaching/耐洗涤和耐漂白色牢 165
# f% m; A7 W7 w% B# f 16.2.3 Colorfastness to drycleaning/耐干洗色牢度 166
" J, g2 I. _5 L4 B 16.2.4 Colorfastness to perspiration/耐汗渍色牢度 166
4 h7 f( r: ~ b7 T 16.2.5 Colorfastness to water/耐水浸色牢度 166
7 Y$ r6 X0 x5 Z3 O0 ]$ j% F 16.2.6 Colorfastness to light/耐光照色牢度 1678 P6 q( [: t" I. `
16.2.7 Colorfastness to atmospheric contaminants/耐空气污染色牢度 168
- S T/ N i9 R Questions/思考题 168: c+ y( `6 M: R) A. L) J: D
Chapter 17 Fabric Flammability/织物可燃性 169$ a/ Q. ~: `- U8 L, o* U0 {# h" \
17.1 Flammability standards/可燃性标准 169# y! F) r3 A# z
17.2 Properties affecting flammability/影响可燃性的因素 1697 i+ |* V) f4 ^
17.3 Flammability testing/可燃性测试 171
* u: p' [7 B" g4 W {; ^# E 17.3.1 Forty-five degree angle test/45°燃烧测试法 171" S/ b2 i0 e! w2 i/ c+ c# @# h
17.3.2 Vertical flame tests/垂直燃烧测试法 172
; Y: l+ E( i2 U c0 u- \& q 17.3.3 Carpet testing/地毯测试 172
8 l" D1 C& X' i1 a# J 17.3.4 Cigarette tests/卷烟点燃测试 172 U X, I0 H/ @
17.3.5 Other standard flammability tests/其他可燃性测试 1732 [4 l9 r7 x* I8 m
Questions/思考题 173
9 j4 L* \& }; U" S) U/ { Chapter 18 Comfort of Textiles/纺织品舒适性 174$ C& u8 _- Z/ g$ {; ?
18.1 Physical phenomena affecting thermal comfort/影响热舒适性能的物理现象 174" W, Z7 H# u h5 h
18.1.1 Heat transfer/热传递 174
# A6 X: f. X' z/ X$ E 18.1.2 Moisture transfer/湿传递 175
9 ^, F2 M& ]: |5 A. H 18.1.3 Water resistance/抗水性 1759 A+ N" I7 K, R8 p
18.1.4 Air transfer/透气性 176
2 H; e% m' b3 a q( W( Z1 | 18.1.5 Porosity and cover factor/多孔性和覆盖系数 176; N( Q* T% F" ]# ]1 ~- G7 C
18.1.6 Electrostatic propensity/静电 177$ c7 O( r; X8 m; t# U: r! g8 ~
18.2 Evaluations of textile properties related to comfort/与舒适性相关的纺织品性能评价 177
( w; h; ]6 t2 D 18.2.1 Heat transfer/热传递 178$ o# x+ v) J/ E2 x
18.2.2 Moisture properties/湿传递性能 179
2 [4 o0 `4 m5 r3 D$ N 18.2.3 Air permeability/透气性 179! C Y4 A3 X! n6 s, Y" p) [4 J
18.2.4 Porosity/孔隙率 180
# k* u& P- t" M0 X 18.2.5 Electrostatic tests/静电测试 180: B$ a: P1 ?3 N H; {+ D( F
Questions/思考题 1805 I8 f9 I# R H
Appendix/附录 181/ A4 c. S+ ^* F2 \6 p* L# G
AATCC:AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS/美国纺织化学家与染色家协会 181
9 K/ k/ W& V% S7 y$ o( h ASTM:AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR TESTING AND MATERIALS/美国材料试验学会 1842 E8 O* n! ]% ` M2 @1 [. @
Vocabulary/词汇表 189 G; u- D! I) p
References/参考文献 197( I& x; }" T W5 A* G
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