
纺织材料学(双语教材),刘妍,熊磊,PDF。普通高等教育“十一五”国家级规划教材(本科),纺织工程专业双语教材,电子目录,14M。
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* |9 o. a. r E! \6 V8 v内容提要1 s$ K# R5 Z/ p( Q, a# }
本书讨论了纤维、纱线与织物(包括机织物、针织物及非织造布)的结构、机械性能、物理性能及使用性能。涉及的纤维势括天然纤维(如棉、毛、麻、丝等)、传统化学纤维及新型化学纤维。本书同时介绍了纤维、纱线和织物的各种标准测试方法(包括国际上常用的ASTM, AATCC及GB等方法),并讨论了与各种测试方法有关的测试原理及对测试结果的影响因素。
) \+ p4 ~! s! Q4 G2 S5 a2 `+ S本书可供高等纺织院校纺织、服装相关专业的本科生及研究生作为《纺织材料学》的双语教材或专业英语教材,也可供其他专业师生、纺织贸易专业人员和科研及生产单位的技术人员参考。2 w9 b; v x% ^" v3 Z7 g
目录
; a* t" {* u; \) h6 R0 h, cPart Ⅰ An Introduction to Textiles/纺织入门 18
M, d, u9 m( a3 B9 O/ S4 y Chapter 1 Introduction/介绍 18
6 d1 a2 Y! S! x+ J3 E 1.1 ASTM Standard Terminology Relating to Textiles/ASTM纺织标准术语 18( `& m9 P+ ~3 T$ N: ]
1.2 Fiber history/纤维历史 261 j9 Q5 ~( `9 d
1.2.1 Natural fibers/天然纤维 26/ O) t; U5 h2 B: [. S3 T4 {. g
1.2.2 Man-made fibers/化学纤维 27
4 }. {# e4 j/ d3 C a% a Questions/思考题 307 m4 Z9 p9 I. y$ ~0 m; q% P8 n$ G: I" o
Part Ⅱ Textile Fibers/纺织纤维 32
/ `0 B# W/ q8 Y, B( K+ d Chapter 2 Natural Cellulosic Fibers/天然纤维素纤维 32
) ~0 \' Y- J, z# h0 t' V+ q9 a 2.1 Cotton/棉 33
8 v: u# e' t: e( [ B9 X 2.1.1 Nature of cotton/棉花的种类 33
* J7 k8 G2 Q# K( V 2.1.2 Classification/分类 34
" [, z1 T& p+ v% T 2.1.3 Growth and structure of cotton/棉纤维的生长与结构 342 ]( ]! H& J) A# G2 N }3 l- Z
2.1.4 Maturity/成熟度 36' u0 L. L8 [! O7 L1 a
2.1.5 Cotton properties/棉纤维的性能 38
' [3 `4 J5 @& x9 Z% m/ K, K ^1 ?2 t/ M 2.1.6 Cotton classification/棉花分级 39" f4 @+ V3 f- n1 Z( H1 o
2.2 Bast fibers/韧皮纤维 40& |: d; K6 |1 X9 a: ]3 x5 M
2.2.1 Flax (linen)/亚麻,亚麻织物 41
4 h6 D9 o) T5 ]2 @ 2.2.2 Ramie/苎麻 43
3 _4 x; v5 D6 p/ u 2.2.3 Hemp/汉麻 44. f+ U8 ]+ `7 A( b! j( b9 w
2.2.4 Jute/黄麻 44! @# _8 B, @) V2 p/ _" j; w
Questions/思考题 45( I7 N* }3 n. u, H2 d( ^
Chapter 3 Natural Protein Fibers/天然蛋白质纤维 46
0 {. _$ r. u- b7 ~- q: s, O; G 3.1 Wool/绵羊毛 46' w! R, j( \5 u, ^9 C; V$ ~
3.1.1 Wool production and history/羊毛生产和历史 46: a1 D. J3 m' w, D- ^! g! j8 U
3.1.2 Wool grading/羊毛分级 47
; \6 ^, B' {4 W 3.1.3 Wool structure/羊毛结构 47
! \3 _' O0 C* o! C" P8 k( u4 @: } 3.1.4 Wool properties/羊毛性能 48
' j2 p9 q7 a5 S5 L& o 3.2 Specialty animal fibers/特种动物毛 51* s2 @5 U+ v# U3 o. r0 D
3.3 Silk/丝 52
- [! z7 y$ s1 }( O" v$ a6 M Questions/思考题 54 U) c8 j9 m; J9 c; p3 [
Chapter 4 Man-made Fibers/化学纤维 55
, d- U& Z+ i" k8 D* r) T4 C 4.1 Manufacturing processing of fiber/纤维生产工艺 556 s: y7 [; |$ }0 J6 O7 k
4.1.1 Wet spinning/湿法纺丝 56; {6 h, P: ?; h3 W
4.1.2 Dry spinning/干法纺丝 56
! B' O" r: h7 S* E/ X7 O0 Q 4.1.3 Melt spinning/熔体法纺丝 56
) n( C/ P+ V* D0 l2 R% x- a6 \ 4.1.4 Gel spinning/凝胶纺丝 57
4 B: v7 t; [2 g 4.2 Regenerated fibers/再生纤维 57
; N1 O! R# u; y0 q* ]% v 4.2.1 Acetate/醋酯纤维 578 [* d3 N% H( ^( ?- i% j9 P
4.2.2 Triacetate/三醋酯纤维 59
6 _8 A2 l$ K- i+ m% V6 x3 r 4.2.3 Viscose fibers/粘胶纤维 59( T! H( p( l/ D
4.3 Synthetic fibers/合成纤维 604 N3 Q' ^; n' C0 j
4.3.1 Acrylic/腈纶 60/ U" g2 w o7 z+ C/ N
4.3.2 Modacrylic/改性腈纶 61
& u7 M' I: [8 L0 _: H- P 4.3.3 Nylon/锦纶 61
4 u) R) W2 r0 P. A+ Y6 v- a8 V- K 4.3.4 Polyester/涤纶 62
# O: A& `. D4 _. } 4.3.5 PBI/聚苯并咪唑纤维 63
0 |/ _1 c6 g; l! o( P 4.3.6 Vinal/聚乙烯醇纤维 63
& A: _! p6 h8 t t" _ 4.3.7 Olefin/聚烯烃纤维 63
0 K7 Q! |! y+ j& W: k 4.3.8 Aramid/芳纶 64
- ~- L: r/ K7 d8 W, S 4.3.9 Lycra/莱卡 64- J6 y3 e0 x( X# J% q/ [! F
4.4 Other man-made fibers/其他化学纤维 66
; `4 ]4 s& Y3 W: Y$ } 4.4.1 Glass/玻璃纤维 66
: A) n- R6 R9 ?4 W. U) ?6 y' n 4.4.2 Metallic/金属纤维 67
6 ]! b4 G f! } Questions/思考题 67
. Y! r9 d& h) q8 l h1 q! Z Chapter 5 New Fibers/新型纤维 68& z9 `2 t" U# r
5.1 Carbon fibers/碳纤维 681 c, {1 B$ c$ `3 b v& E
5.2 Fluorocarbon/氟碳纤维 68. [& X" `* B/ r
5.3 Lyocell fibers(Tencel)/莱塞尔纤维 68
- j; @; P0 Z& h+ |# J 5.4 High-wet-modulus fibers/高湿模量纤维 69. L z% b9 o* J5 O) I, e! B2 z) u
5.4.1 Modal fibers/莫代尔纤维 69
+ H- O' g) B" P4 o; W 5.4.2 Richcel/丽赛纤维 70
1 R2 p$ L5 O: ^) n/ P 5.5 Soybean protein composite fibers/大豆蛋白复合纤维 70
& _' e8 k- ^- g3 T% d7 A1 z9 t3 J 5.6 PLA fiber/聚左旋乳酸纤维 71
6 V7 v& }7 k8 X& s* p; I( Q2 V) @ 5.7 Heterogenous fibers/复合纤维 71
" o1 C/ O# q3 H 5.7.1 Bicomponent or multicomponent/双组分或多组分 72
! }, b8 w+ p7 u 5.7.2 Biconstituent or multiconstituent/双成分或多成分 739 q! f7 ]1 N7 Z" N# F1 @) H
5.7.3 Matrix or matrix-fibril/基质型纤维 73
1 V% _1 k8 Y, ]" q( V( u 5.8 Differential fibers/差别化纤维 74- Z$ @$ O& d" v( k$ ]/ M. [
5.9 Functional fibers/功能性纤维 74
' j$ k, {$ {" E( ]8 |7 ? 5.10 High performance fibers/高性能纤维 74
, q) S1 Y1 j$ W3 @- {5 K Questions/思考题 74" h% @: b) O( m @; ]0 {
Chapter 6 The Property of Absorbing Moisture/吸湿性 75
" x6 G6 g2 h) v6 ? 6.1 Orientation and crystallization/取向与结晶 75! q& w! |- b/ r/ @
6.2 Moisture sorption/吸湿性 75) n M$ n0 a, K
6.2.1 Regain and moisture content/回潮率与含水率 75: L4 s0 W+ M+ C3 \1 q
6.2.2 Relation between regain and relative humidity/回潮率与相对湿度的关系 75) s- U9 e9 v: V: M7 p' v# w
6.2.3 Comparison of various materials/不同材料吸湿性的对比 76
4 u/ k) [. N: o: { 6.2.4 Theories of moisture sorption/吸湿理论 78; `+ j/ d0 ?2 B2 }* F
Questions/思考题 80
6 o V T t: j. H Chapter 7 Other Physical Properties of Textile Fibers/纤维的其他物理性能 81! _6 s8 K0 f% f1 p: E+ H3 G7 @
7.1 Electronic properties/电学性能 81
/ Q# g5 b" N( |" C6 V5 A% ]4 | 7.1.1 Definitions/定义 81
9 U8 Y' Y0 p- e) {$ Y- ]. u 7.2 Optical properties/光学性能 82
: T7 m/ g/ a' r. d- C) J 7.3 Thermal properties/热学性能 83& P. F0 h4 [; ~) p- g! R
7.3.1 Thermal parameters/热力学参数 832 y' T1 ?+ s2 N/ t; ^
7.3.2 A comparison of temperature effects/温度效应比较 83
0 c* H2 D/ h4 `* U$ ?" V( ~- q: @ X Questions/思考题 83
+ _' A: Y" K+ b6 l; q; t! j* RPart Ⅲ Textile Yarns/纺织纱线 84
, y$ S: T- z8 C$ `# z$ c Chapter 8 Yarn Processing and Construction/纱线制造与结构 84% }) s- F( b( _8 o9 p
8.1 Spun yarns/短纤纱 85
- D q; y9 g6 P2 l, T 8.2 Filament yarns/长丝纱 85: e2 `) P) ]" k4 N% n
8.3 Methods of yarn processing/纺纱方法 85
; d) u% D( A$ _2 @2 U6 d! G! _* m 8.3.1 Ring-spinning/环锭纺 86
8 Y- M9 O1 p/ i! O) _( \+ `- a6 d 8.3.2 New methods of yarn processing/新型纺纱方法 867 j8 ^3 ~( F3 r o0 @- \
8.4 Single and ply yarns/单纱和股线 89+ y+ k7 t/ w) |) |/ M& j% Y1 J
8.5 Special types of yarn/特种纱线 90- k8 l& o9 t1 k. `
8.5.1 Fancy yarns/花式纱 90
/ ?* F& u0 ]# ]8 } 8.5.2 Stretch yarns/弹力纱 91- H' o6 r& ^3 \3 Q
8.5.3 Textured yarns 变形纱线 917 W4 R$ G+ h" Z
8.6 Blends and mixtures yarns/纱线混纺与混用 92+ t( \# K1 ]# ~3 [. j7 z, u
Questions/思考题 934 Y1 P+ k/ z0 s7 y6 H( h$ O
Chapter 9 Yarn Properties/纱线性能 94+ u- _4 o$ O: v& F( U
9.1 Yarn number/纱线细度 94
- K: u0 X+ L) r5 S/ f- z+ ^( g 9.1.1 Denier system/旦数 94% @8 t% o1 E" M% ]6 {1 l
9.1.2 Yarn count system/纱线英制支数 94
. W0 z; f6 o) u& k3 Z 9.1.3 Tex system/线密度 95
, u3 o0 K8 K$ D9 r 9.1.4 Metric numbering system/公制支数 951 W) @ c+ v0 j' u( o8 s
9.1.5 Conversion in different systems/不同系统之间的换算 95
8 {2 a9 R' u3 T/ q- Z 9.2 Ply yarn counts and singles equivalent/股线支数与单纱支数 95
* ?$ h9 ^2 M T; G8 B 9.3 Yarn twist/纱线捻度 96: I0 e) f$ P% {$ I1 g7 ^3 g
9.4 Yarn hairiness/纱线毛羽 97. i4 t$ [' }: f, a4 n: u9 ~) E$ ^
9.4.1 Hairiness test method/毛羽测试方法 98
: R6 ^. W5 [8 @4 l 9.4.2 Factors affecting hairiness/影响毛羽的因素 985 E3 y( t; ~' H9 c
9.5 Yarn unevenness/纱线不匀 995 y! i# R, s1 y# N' a Y$ C. k: V
9.5.1 Test of yarn unevenness/纱线不匀的测试 99
* E: y$ r+ h a5 G& [ 9.5.2 Reasons for yarn unevenness/纱线不匀的原因 1002 G: K8 v" {9 q6 C. Y* H( i. \, T
9.6 Classification of yarn quality/纱线质量分析 100
2 _3 r. w( k7 [% B9 C) ` Questions/思考题 100
* R( }- L, V0 E* a" u$ zPart Ⅳ Textile Fabrics/织物 102* ~2 u" A5 K' C$ W3 u6 f6 S
Chapter 10 Woven Fabrics/机织物 102
& M3 W0 j$ O2 W6 e3 U; ^ 10.1 Making woven fabrics/织制机织物 102
' h7 f2 N1 p B* q" ^% C 10.1.1 The loom/织机 102
" R1 J1 n( G! q& p. K 10.1.2 Loom type/织机类型 104
' h5 p/ b! B7 @! h. D0 j 10.1.3 Loom motions/织机运动 1045 g# _0 F1 R4 D. }4 Z# v* B
10.1.4 Electronics in weaving/电子技术在织机中的应用 105
. H+ Q& L+ E3 W, X 10.1.5 The selvage/布边 105" U- W6 i0 i! g% I/ ?$ \) `
10.2 Warp yarns and filling yarns/经纱和纬纱 1051 h) g$ S9 r8 |: Y; E# z# ~
10.2.1 Identification/鉴别 106
9 G* f# O4 x& H# y" `6 d 10.3 Face and back/正面与反面 106( ^' b, Y( w- t$ Z# b* H5 O
10.3.1 Reasons for differenee/存在差异的原因 107' }5 c/ c a8 t# b& ]' M
10.3.2 Caution/应用的要点 107
/ m/ L }* n. [( H, ] 10.4 Top and bottom/顶端和底端 107+ ]7 S2 j/ {+ M m4 K+ D4 L8 m
10.4.1 Reasons for difference/存在差异的原因 1078 ]7 h1 b0 l, y' e% A
10.5 Weave floats/组织浮线 1084 p% J9 r# g! l4 X4 c5 e7 Q1 S
10.6 Basic weaves/基本组织 108
8 n ^, r- \! \ 10.6.1 Plain weave/平纹组织 1081 e6 x3 ~# y' Q. a6 Q
10.6.2 Twill weave/斜纹组织 109
* n! v+ c T1 @' X; A5 O ~ 10.6.3 Satin weave/缎纹组织 111
+ R% m4 t5 E- k/ b, T/ [ 10.7 Fabric performance and characteristics/织物性能和参数 112, r9 l6 B! Y/ M' ]) }/ D; ~
10.7.1 Fabric width/幅宽 112
8 S& m8 g+ R D4 `8 ]! q 10.7.2 Fabric weight/织物重量 1121 K) A* S0 @. p1 y
10.7.3 Fabric thickness/织物厚度 1134 u T2 e6 `" |7 q$ ]+ S- x
10.7.4 Fabric density/织物密度 1135 V$ t8 V4 c' K. t+ V# Y
10.7.5 Fabric count/织物经纬密度 113
$ X7 v; c' x1 ^/ D; o 10.7.6 Fabric defects/织物疵点 113
$ w& s0 g1 H" j3 o: g Questions/思考题 113. ~$ c( C2 z2 c; z
Chapter 11 Knitted Fabrics/针织物 114( U5 N( Y8 }7 m8 Q1 E$ G
11.1 Making of knitted fabric/针织物形成 114
, E) e s( [8 z, d1 x 11.1.1 The forming of knitted stitches/线圈的形成 114- @. w( z+ u3 p
11.1.2 Types of knitted stitches/线圈的种类 116
' m3 i9 A1 c' @8 M+ [& E 11.2 Weft knits/纬编针织物 117
% K7 r+ ^* h1 c2 x9 \' H0 Z% x 11.2.1 Jersey knit fabric/纬平针织物 117
. a$ ]9 R" D7 p) l( V }$ C 11.2.2 Rib knit fabric/罗纹针织物 1183 B( v! E# N1 ] s/ C7 h
11.2.3 Purl knit fabric/双反面针织物 119
$ K" P' I0 q4 D) A5 Y, H 11.2.4 Double knits/双面针织物 120
% z% P5 x5 t+ [; Y; J& s 11.2.5 Full-fashioned knits/全成形针织物 120* a9 A/ z" {1 q4 d$ x* l2 u1 f& V
11.3 Warp knits/经编针织物 121
1 V7 J# I3 N7 V" C0 `* M \ 11.3.1 Tricot fabrics/特里科经编针织物 121. Q$ F: x$ t5 k0 L
11.3.2 Raschel fabrics/拉舍尔经编针织物 122
+ d2 Z8 A: C$ p 11.4 Performance and characteristics/性能和参数 122* ]! _9 n# X5 ~- _6 v
Questions/思考题 123* `- W# J# p. r5 Y( n" I. j
Chapter 12 Nonwoven Fabrics/非织造布 124
3 Z2 B% x4 Q) P 12.1 Introduction/导论 124
. S# H1 k9 m2 [+ P b 12.2 Manufacturing methods/生产方法 125
; S% s4 Z3 Q3 ?! M1 F 12.2.1 Dry laid system/干法成网 125
4 H! f3 z- ]2 e, V5 Y 12.2.2 Wet laid system/湿法成网 125
% h1 m/ \: ~( P8 Z# B" r. e 12.2.3 Polymer laid system/聚合物挤压法 125
9 f! e/ q5 T' a4 [ 12.3 Various nonwovens/各种非织造布 125
4 A/ a" e# x/ ]5 s7 x1 }( R 12.3.1 Needle punched nonwovens/针刺法非织造布 125
. j, i% B1 E0 [0 R" `7 ` F: C 12.3.2 Bonded web nonwovens/黏合法非织造布 126
2 X6 [5 n9 | |) c: C6 |. T/ c 12.3.3 Spunlaced nonwovens/射流喷网法非织造布 127
0 q( ^* } k/ d- M# S0 d 12.3.4 Spunbonded nonwovens/纺粘法非织造布 128
0 K9 ]4 ?- `) Z4 J 12.3.5 Melt-blown nonwovens/熔喷法非织造布 129
_. @+ S$ {; _0 K Questions/思考题 129
+ K% v4 W! m4 d3 F$ r7 L& LPart Ⅴ Textile Testing/纺织品测试 130
& }4 H; G9 Y9 @ K0 N- G. D# A Chapter 13 General Test Methods/常规测试方法 130
. Y8 I) I, F; v. P1 D 13.1 General fiber tests/纤维常规测试 130
! j9 ]1 o3 r2 z" W6 v 13.1.1 Fiber identification/纤维鉴别 130" h! p9 h1 D; r# a" m
13.1.2 Fiber length/纤维长度 134
' Z, S( k, L# M. U( ] 13.1.3 Fiber fineness or linear density/纤维细度或线密度 135
9 A) p1 m, e- t+ R/ M- ^& Z, J, V' B 13.1.4 Cross-sectional shape/截面形状 135
9 [, }: F; \0 K A1 Q9 f* \6 j 13.1.5 Crimp/卷曲 135
5 B' t, s9 a- q& s 13.1.6 Regain/回潮率 136
* |8 \$ d0 x# m% _8 M0 I: n 13.1.7 Mechanical properties/机械性能 136
& d7 Z) R! M( y8 I& b 13.1.8 Chemical characteristics/化学性能 136& @$ K7 r; b: x8 x# I
13.1.9 Surface characteristics/表面性能 136+ _$ V; a. k* g( `0 i7 w% x- d5 ~ @
13.1.10 Density and specific gravity/密度和相对密度 137% `' q a, T; |% A" N4 |
13.2 Special tests for natural fibers/天然纤维的测试 137. W' _* r: D- c, D/ e1 I: W
13.2.1 Tests for cotton/棉纤维测试 137
6 e. P3 _% T. E8 f: g. ^5 W 13.2.2 Tests for wool/毛纤维测试 139
q# O* k$ [* h* J* F 13.3 Testing of tensile properties/拉伸性能测试 140
1 ~9 C7 s1 \8 a 13.3.1 Description of tensile proprieties/拉伸性能的描述 1410 l8 s) N8 I. ~ R8 Z
13.3.2 Fiber and yarn tensile testing/纤维和纱线拉伸性能的测试 146% t8 Z* K8 [ j5 b
13.3.3 Fabric tensile testing/织物拉伸性能测试方法 147' l( G9 R; A; w: _4 D
Questions/思考题 149
, S: m/ a5 F0 g0 c7 r Chapter 14 Fabric Abrasion and Pilling/织物磨损与起球 150
, w3 s/ b* o( k/ t9 _ 14.1 Types of abrasion/磨损的类型 150" D) w& i# o' F
14.1.1 Abrasion between fabrics/织物间的磨损 150
8 K! ?0 F, B0 M+ q6 h+ f, M9 ] 14.1.2 Abrasion between fabric and a nontextile surface/织物与非纤维制品表面磨损 150; Z& h5 y7 O# p; X
14.1.3 Abrasion within fabric/织物内部磨损 151
3 e$ v! y j; w: c( a4 j8 r 14.1.4 Abrasion by foreign materials within the fabric/与织物内部其他材料的磨损 151
9 Q. s# {4 E8 T7 E3 K, a 14.2 Factors affecting fabric abrasion resistance/影响耐磨性能的因素 151
. X. j0 p& c7 n5 d0 ~9 b7 I 14.2.1 Fabric properties/织物性能 151" `0 C6 \* P) u- w# I9 X% }6 _
14.2.2 Other factors/其他因素 153" P: ]3 z: B" i5 g- o2 W2 i5 H% v
14.3 Abrasion testing/磨损测试 154
6 |" r5 D \, L% b. ^* u1 m9 J 14.3.1 Visual comparison with an unabraded specimen/与未磨损样品视觉对比 154 ]) `+ Z2 ^6 Q9 s1 x& p) X+ F7 `6 q
14.3.2 Number of cycles to produce a hole/产生磨损破洞需要的摩擦圈数 154
$ y' X; E. c* g& W1 ]: J 14.3.3 Change in a physical property/物理性能的变化 154. s9 j1 O" m7 l, P$ U# k6 U
14.3.4 Microscopic examination/显微镜观测 155+ p% S1 s k Z7 e, W6 a
14.4 Aesthetics of abrasion and wear/穿着和磨损对美感的影响 155+ |! j+ j% i6 P6 b5 [
14.4.1 Color changes caused by abrasion/磨损引起的颜色变化 155
0 ?) Y) z# Q2 |* w' Q 14.4.2 Pilling/起球 156
! n9 Q5 Y! `" P2 T# M6 n Questions/思考题 157
, y, ~6 I. H- A, E5 L i- u8 A Chapter 15 Fabric Hand and Drape/织物手感与悬垂 1583 x7 Y) q2 W$ R8 G6 j7 S8 `
15.1 Fabric hand/织物手感 158: U; y" p$ {# ?/ o+ P8 F
15.2 Fabric drape/织物悬垂 159- z5 M& J$ T/ C- U& ^) R! k, v
15.3 Measurement of hand and drape/手感与悬垂的评价 161
$ v) R, n! _; i. r/ X. y 15.3.1 Subjective evaluation/主观评定法 161
3 v0 I" U& y* g- ?0 q* Y 15.3.2 Quantitative measurement/定量评定法 1626 y1 X- ~: H4 ], ^) S
15.3.3 Kawabata evaluation system/KES评定法 163/ H5 K4 [/ e8 n
Questions/思考题 163$ Y$ i n7 t, H D
Chapter 16 Fabric Colorfastness/织物染色牢度 1648 s4 V9 ]2 x- c0 M4 z* Q) O1 M) j4 c
16.1 Evaluation of color and colorfastness/颜色和染色牢度评定方法 164: {' e2 r* W9 K4 M
16.2 Colorfastness tests/染色牢度测试 164
7 |* v) z6 L6 o( @: \+ J! L 16.2.1 Colorfastness to crocking/耐摩擦色牢度 164( o- f2 [9 \/ o- \8 h2 F+ o9 {7 S
16.2.2 Colorfastness to laundering and bleaching/耐洗涤和耐漂白色牢 1659 ^; a/ j' L' @( L
16.2.3 Colorfastness to drycleaning/耐干洗色牢度 166
0 I& W+ r& k" M: W" n 16.2.4 Colorfastness to perspiration/耐汗渍色牢度 166
4 K, c4 l: V) D4 G3 ?( w 16.2.5 Colorfastness to water/耐水浸色牢度 1668 j: N0 z4 @% z* X2 e. ~
16.2.6 Colorfastness to light/耐光照色牢度 167
0 F- p7 o1 y" d0 O 16.2.7 Colorfastness to atmospheric contaminants/耐空气污染色牢度 168$ [2 t1 t1 B0 U; O6 S
Questions/思考题 168- }; j2 x+ K5 ?& B& [" x) V
Chapter 17 Fabric Flammability/织物可燃性 169
1 O2 {8 R3 U8 S6 {$ Z: z 17.1 Flammability standards/可燃性标准 169
/ m& }4 a' u/ V* ~+ S6 M 17.2 Properties affecting flammability/影响可燃性的因素 1692 ^1 @$ r) A6 m7 a
17.3 Flammability testing/可燃性测试 171
4 i/ h5 M3 f1 K5 d$ B 17.3.1 Forty-five degree angle test/45°燃烧测试法 1716 g: u) L" e$ D w& d% }
17.3.2 Vertical flame tests/垂直燃烧测试法 172 y' K! a, q" E( ]. a& k X3 J( Q
17.3.3 Carpet testing/地毯测试 172
8 l1 X: l3 R3 V' [/ V% Q: P 17.3.4 Cigarette tests/卷烟点燃测试 172
/ T! D0 _% ~" s! u5 {9 w6 ~ 17.3.5 Other standard flammability tests/其他可燃性测试 1732 u6 f9 V! w. {
Questions/思考题 173
& E: R& A% N- a0 \+ M j, U1 X, ] Chapter 18 Comfort of Textiles/纺织品舒适性 174
1 _2 O! E4 c) r. ]' q 18.1 Physical phenomena affecting thermal comfort/影响热舒适性能的物理现象 174
, k" V( E( C# L+ ?* }7 h" f 18.1.1 Heat transfer/热传递 1742 Y @$ ~% r8 L' j5 F
18.1.2 Moisture transfer/湿传递 175$ z9 w! A1 y5 H- k$ J
18.1.3 Water resistance/抗水性 175# w; e- ?0 Y- z+ v" p. }
18.1.4 Air transfer/透气性 176: Y6 N1 K/ z+ v0 X9 P1 R
18.1.5 Porosity and cover factor/多孔性和覆盖系数 176
7 C; ?9 ?9 |# Q' d, {* J0 r 18.1.6 Electrostatic propensity/静电 177
l7 L' f& f2 T/ i3 `7 l3 ~. } q, d) M 18.2 Evaluations of textile properties related to comfort/与舒适性相关的纺织品性能评价 177. h5 a' \5 r1 G, r# ~2 k
18.2.1 Heat transfer/热传递 178
) N( \3 a. J# [6 F! w 18.2.2 Moisture properties/湿传递性能 1790 G6 p/ s& B3 M; g9 b
18.2.3 Air permeability/透气性 179
& }3 o9 n3 y- s' Q+ A 18.2.4 Porosity/孔隙率 180
e. \; c# b! k3 ? 18.2.5 Electrostatic tests/静电测试 1809 L1 N7 H5 T5 h4 u1 F
Questions/思考题 180
, Q% j. p: z" C$ OAppendix/附录 1818 E/ d u5 p# |7 G, ^3 W
AATCC:AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS/美国纺织化学家与染色家协会 181" \9 |5 f: P0 J7 j5 s! W5 X/ G
ASTM:AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR TESTING AND MATERIALS/美国材料试验学会 184% b& w3 b7 i3 y9 h
Vocabulary/词汇表 189$ O, o/ N% h6 b( n# z+ v
References/参考文献 197
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