
纺织材料学(双语教材),刘妍,熊磊,PDF。普通高等教育“十一五”国家级规划教材(本科),纺织工程专业双语教材,电子目录,14M。" @5 e7 Y7 I, L; z( s
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内容提要0 x% `- e, ]3 N
本书讨论了纤维、纱线与织物(包括机织物、针织物及非织造布)的结构、机械性能、物理性能及使用性能。涉及的纤维势括天然纤维(如棉、毛、麻、丝等)、传统化学纤维及新型化学纤维。本书同时介绍了纤维、纱线和织物的各种标准测试方法(包括国际上常用的ASTM, AATCC及GB等方法),并讨论了与各种测试方法有关的测试原理及对测试结果的影响因素。# u; O7 ^0 Y4 c& R: h' y8 I
本书可供高等纺织院校纺织、服装相关专业的本科生及研究生作为《纺织材料学》的双语教材或专业英语教材,也可供其他专业师生、纺织贸易专业人员和科研及生产单位的技术人员参考。
1 p8 @4 k) `& P7 j; C目录* f" z- ^, p, e- |( o4 |
Part Ⅰ An Introduction to Textiles/纺织入门 183 P' l' g$ h: _: e4 C
Chapter 1 Introduction/介绍 18
% \5 I% E3 @+ ]8 E" m. P# q 1.1 ASTM Standard Terminology Relating to Textiles/ASTM纺织标准术语 18
6 ~* P; R. ~2 m* O 1.2 Fiber history/纤维历史 269 y4 x8 L% p) ]8 @3 O+ r
1.2.1 Natural fibers/天然纤维 26
# d7 R$ e7 V2 S/ w 1.2.2 Man-made fibers/化学纤维 27( ~+ W6 D3 C0 ]
Questions/思考题 30
1 E" s9 |1 n0 Q) X" _8 Y6 HPart Ⅱ Textile Fibers/纺织纤维 327 J: l, s% E* r- C
Chapter 2 Natural Cellulosic Fibers/天然纤维素纤维 32
" d: p$ U2 M7 a6 J8 _" u 2.1 Cotton/棉 336 b' r" U: ]% l8 a3 z. I4 S8 s% Y+ ?
2.1.1 Nature of cotton/棉花的种类 33
; u9 r1 u5 l" G7 N 2.1.2 Classification/分类 34
& [: ^) A# Y b$ m! A 2.1.3 Growth and structure of cotton/棉纤维的生长与结构 345 {5 C4 q% k! s2 H; [* h
2.1.4 Maturity/成熟度 36
, r' \( Z' T# b# L9 M 2.1.5 Cotton properties/棉纤维的性能 38
, K) D/ t1 a; J1 m 2.1.6 Cotton classification/棉花分级 39" R1 ?# E. o+ H- o" d/ o5 Y
2.2 Bast fibers/韧皮纤维 40
9 Z5 D7 L$ j M* K 2.2.1 Flax (linen)/亚麻,亚麻织物 41
7 ]& y8 R6 J1 ?: [9 Y5 i 2.2.2 Ramie/苎麻 43
3 w! k8 ~5 E( M- F2 _ 2.2.3 Hemp/汉麻 44
) @) u& Z5 n/ U; _& x 2.2.4 Jute/黄麻 441 ?; P! ^) O4 n% W5 {4 r
Questions/思考题 45
! @9 ~- F+ D% ^! ^* F" I Chapter 3 Natural Protein Fibers/天然蛋白质纤维 46( A* B2 E- }4 a6 g
3.1 Wool/绵羊毛 46
% A4 v, I: z, V) K8 g z9 [5 f# [ 3.1.1 Wool production and history/羊毛生产和历史 46
. S+ r a9 L+ S: X0 O 3.1.2 Wool grading/羊毛分级 47
; R/ i- a5 [0 c 3.1.3 Wool structure/羊毛结构 471 y5 n& i0 I+ b' S5 f9 A) p4 j
3.1.4 Wool properties/羊毛性能 48$ e% ?$ \* W, ]) H$ c
3.2 Specialty animal fibers/特种动物毛 51& z5 U" l1 t8 i
3.3 Silk/丝 52
& @- H* B6 s. R, d. R5 B3 U, Z& ~ Questions/思考题 54
" p5 V# }* f' d; b Chapter 4 Man-made Fibers/化学纤维 556 l, P/ I/ {4 C) K( r3 [
4.1 Manufacturing processing of fiber/纤维生产工艺 55, x# j. ]9 X. j' [* J* a; |0 S$ Y
4.1.1 Wet spinning/湿法纺丝 56
+ L# S5 |; E# r; z5 B B7 o/ r3 w! o 4.1.2 Dry spinning/干法纺丝 56$ z: ]5 ^9 r4 m1 i- i4 |7 r
4.1.3 Melt spinning/熔体法纺丝 56' W3 v2 M+ W7 M1 j5 b6 E& J! Z
4.1.4 Gel spinning/凝胶纺丝 57
8 }9 A4 J/ k% @# G! R 4.2 Regenerated fibers/再生纤维 57* M/ H. x& V* K6 p* M
4.2.1 Acetate/醋酯纤维 57
" s$ O: D( e! ]6 `6 _' a& D 4.2.2 Triacetate/三醋酯纤维 59
9 u8 \+ f3 S( B! V8 S4 D* _ 4.2.3 Viscose fibers/粘胶纤维 59. a& y7 Q$ O$ ~3 v6 s) Z
4.3 Synthetic fibers/合成纤维 602 |4 [# l9 f& F) [$ m$ L
4.3.1 Acrylic/腈纶 60, j, p* ]7 M$ C. ~# s9 R
4.3.2 Modacrylic/改性腈纶 61
+ p/ d- o+ }" N8 T4 `5 | 4.3.3 Nylon/锦纶 61
# ]- b/ y1 q* U9 h1 `0 R8 ? 4.3.4 Polyester/涤纶 62
- \9 X! S' n& t( `) R; ]4 f4 ^6 R6 Q* ? 4.3.5 PBI/聚苯并咪唑纤维 633 g8 l$ {8 P( C6 n& n! N z
4.3.6 Vinal/聚乙烯醇纤维 63. k) Z0 R$ @0 Y" [) d
4.3.7 Olefin/聚烯烃纤维 63
% ~0 ]; E; M* ^0 f" q 4.3.8 Aramid/芳纶 64) \- f/ e7 h7 t& o
4.3.9 Lycra/莱卡 649 K& [2 ^# Z5 P, R+ j
4.4 Other man-made fibers/其他化学纤维 66
* S; {+ j+ m7 ?; o Q5 V 4.4.1 Glass/玻璃纤维 66
, `( B! b- ]' B, f 4.4.2 Metallic/金属纤维 67
* ?( w3 i1 @) S( s Questions/思考题 670 v. n* i, e7 H4 S$ @
Chapter 5 New Fibers/新型纤维 68
0 _6 D' ?& u J) V 5.1 Carbon fibers/碳纤维 68 v& L" F. F7 w+ M( F1 Z0 N
5.2 Fluorocarbon/氟碳纤维 68
" A o) B5 [/ z X+ G* s0 V' @& { 5.3 Lyocell fibers(Tencel)/莱塞尔纤维 68
/ ]% O; ?' b2 \" {7 x2 S 5.4 High-wet-modulus fibers/高湿模量纤维 692 [. g+ |1 W) p d: q* m
5.4.1 Modal fibers/莫代尔纤维 69# v) V$ _9 {# s5 l( {1 W: l9 [" Z4 i5 V
5.4.2 Richcel/丽赛纤维 70+ c6 h$ i% z h3 U8 d* w
5.5 Soybean protein composite fibers/大豆蛋白复合纤维 70
/ x% M6 R6 R0 N$ f1 w/ z 5.6 PLA fiber/聚左旋乳酸纤维 71
' a4 O0 f/ i/ z! ^ 5.7 Heterogenous fibers/复合纤维 71- Y9 d7 e% |2 b; ~, `' m
5.7.1 Bicomponent or multicomponent/双组分或多组分 72
" F% n* u1 j, X2 _0 B 5.7.2 Biconstituent or multiconstituent/双成分或多成分 73
8 h5 Z( p6 l/ {7 X" q: [ 5.7.3 Matrix or matrix-fibril/基质型纤维 73
' v7 X J1 v4 k! }* o 5.8 Differential fibers/差别化纤维 74
5 _ L, n( X& E, I- R- \( t 5.9 Functional fibers/功能性纤维 74
6 d& |# |% J/ w* k \ 5.10 High performance fibers/高性能纤维 74+ l4 q( |+ L0 U0 e4 K P
Questions/思考题 74
' M1 w3 \# K0 L8 Z! [; T) o5 X Chapter 6 The Property of Absorbing Moisture/吸湿性 75, `, b0 }0 U2 C% l2 K
6.1 Orientation and crystallization/取向与结晶 75
' a( @4 e% ? v4 y6 h/ W7 f( u* s 6.2 Moisture sorption/吸湿性 75) _' t5 l+ m9 C7 [" y0 T2 p
6.2.1 Regain and moisture content/回潮率与含水率 75
# s' s' g; s+ P% K, t } 6.2.2 Relation between regain and relative humidity/回潮率与相对湿度的关系 75
. H3 n( Z' H, O 6.2.3 Comparison of various materials/不同材料吸湿性的对比 763 }$ X8 ~& \ t) T
6.2.4 Theories of moisture sorption/吸湿理论 78' e+ ^: D3 Q! h5 G1 t3 g% @
Questions/思考题 80; v/ I) R3 I* ?$ F) e: a; E8 O& ~
Chapter 7 Other Physical Properties of Textile Fibers/纤维的其他物理性能 81
5 m2 _. [( S3 v! k" s 7.1 Electronic properties/电学性能 81
: k7 W; t2 Z9 U$ `" n% L& U# b4 ~ 7.1.1 Definitions/定义 81' w- L* O$ r3 C3 y$ J
7.2 Optical properties/光学性能 82% p9 C, l' n1 T9 V# W+ N7 r: O
7.3 Thermal properties/热学性能 839 H) J& _5 K7 F- ^. l4 D( |
7.3.1 Thermal parameters/热力学参数 83
& X: s5 K8 ?2 d9 {+ o" \ 7.3.2 A comparison of temperature effects/温度效应比较 83
0 l2 R' A2 o4 k6 L' U; M Questions/思考题 83
+ k1 G! i# w, F X: n9 d: p% ^' \8 [* iPart Ⅲ Textile Yarns/纺织纱线 84
7 ~+ G3 v0 Y2 \( z1 X8 u Chapter 8 Yarn Processing and Construction/纱线制造与结构 846 P0 e. M i; x5 P! z# ]
8.1 Spun yarns/短纤纱 850 a& r9 g ^: r
8.2 Filament yarns/长丝纱 85
& D. C7 n' I/ {' x0 g# ~" q 8.3 Methods of yarn processing/纺纱方法 85! Y* V9 @% }- O/ D* h/ o, K' h
8.3.1 Ring-spinning/环锭纺 86$ s% U' ~7 x3 N1 ?6 }
8.3.2 New methods of yarn processing/新型纺纱方法 86
3 U h4 Q, }9 U I5 n% M 8.4 Single and ply yarns/单纱和股线 89
6 m s; q }5 a% a; F 8.5 Special types of yarn/特种纱线 90
9 `- `/ n5 @2 H- w* U 8.5.1 Fancy yarns/花式纱 902 I/ P8 E5 u3 ^0 d9 U
8.5.2 Stretch yarns/弹力纱 917 Z6 d; ?: n" b/ ?" K( G
8.5.3 Textured yarns 变形纱线 91
" \) q2 y7 g7 P# [ K& P 8.6 Blends and mixtures yarns/纱线混纺与混用 92
. D. C$ [$ c/ a6 C2 e. r2 i8 @ Questions/思考题 93" F% O3 n3 B1 B; N% O8 o% R
Chapter 9 Yarn Properties/纱线性能 94# @9 \9 C$ `. H `
9.1 Yarn number/纱线细度 943 Z# I3 k/ i. i
9.1.1 Denier system/旦数 940 z$ `- [& G0 Y A6 Q _$ }- I
9.1.2 Yarn count system/纱线英制支数 947 ^. I' Y; F% U; Q
9.1.3 Tex system/线密度 950 G; N( C/ d) t" M: K8 d
9.1.4 Metric numbering system/公制支数 95 \- `" O3 k$ \; C* Y
9.1.5 Conversion in different systems/不同系统之间的换算 95. Z8 n! b8 k6 p# n4 c" ?) p \& n- C
9.2 Ply yarn counts and singles equivalent/股线支数与单纱支数 95) {' j3 _/ c2 k g% l
9.3 Yarn twist/纱线捻度 96
. a! F$ i# } @5 U2 f. e/ s8 e 9.4 Yarn hairiness/纱线毛羽 97) r- _6 d/ \; ?* U6 g
9.4.1 Hairiness test method/毛羽测试方法 98
& A. J( x% @# a! y6 S) ^1 x6 u+ m 9.4.2 Factors affecting hairiness/影响毛羽的因素 98
& u% y! l7 a% ^4 u+ M! G1 i 9.5 Yarn unevenness/纱线不匀 99
" {) m9 S& o. f5 ?8 V 9.5.1 Test of yarn unevenness/纱线不匀的测试 99
7 C K# {5 b2 |; b* V6 k3 p2 z' \& R 9.5.2 Reasons for yarn unevenness/纱线不匀的原因 100. X" }" c! P+ A7 ^9 K
9.6 Classification of yarn quality/纱线质量分析 100, K6 i- n, Z& o& Q# y" m* z# k
Questions/思考题 1009 }& z$ j7 }/ t% ]/ q* s
Part Ⅳ Textile Fabrics/织物 1024 U0 Y. u7 I# B' q1 g
Chapter 10 Woven Fabrics/机织物 102
( Z" O2 \$ u$ C/ T% V( j4 R% m 10.1 Making woven fabrics/织制机织物 102
4 H m6 I- ^" g5 G, Q4 v 10.1.1 The loom/织机 102
z# |( X+ _/ {& P( x3 h- X+ w 10.1.2 Loom type/织机类型 104
; _; a4 L4 y1 Z1 ` }! T3 ~* M 10.1.3 Loom motions/织机运动 104
4 E9 ?5 }! _: R. n( d8 h 10.1.4 Electronics in weaving/电子技术在织机中的应用 105
& e" _+ ` J$ _. V 10.1.5 The selvage/布边 1051 S3 h# [# ]' x9 |: ^
10.2 Warp yarns and filling yarns/经纱和纬纱 105
- b% ^2 R6 P5 b/ Y 10.2.1 Identification/鉴别 106; o2 G( E6 g& l4 ?) j( q, Y
10.3 Face and back/正面与反面 106
# B; K" j( i4 w; ` 10.3.1 Reasons for differenee/存在差异的原因 107+ c% y& [# H4 ^ V" [ X% `$ h
10.3.2 Caution/应用的要点 107/ l% Z3 d6 m' z
10.4 Top and bottom/顶端和底端 107, Y4 H7 I- q7 f6 T+ ]) M
10.4.1 Reasons for difference/存在差异的原因 1073 m6 _& ^# J4 \# }
10.5 Weave floats/组织浮线 108! C' O5 [4 w+ { o
10.6 Basic weaves/基本组织 108
! d# g$ a3 h! ^, E7 ]9 X# c. } 10.6.1 Plain weave/平纹组织 108
) x$ F5 O8 Y; C. @/ f9 V 10.6.2 Twill weave/斜纹组织 1095 m. x8 N: [: U1 g
10.6.3 Satin weave/缎纹组织 1117 ~% k k- g5 v. C5 d1 U
10.7 Fabric performance and characteristics/织物性能和参数 1120 ~3 n, n4 Q8 B r# I- v! k, E
10.7.1 Fabric width/幅宽 112
+ h8 C1 {& x+ \! P" b+ a/ {. T: f' K7 D1 } 10.7.2 Fabric weight/织物重量 112. M7 c) z1 N' B# ~. _
10.7.3 Fabric thickness/织物厚度 113
' [6 Q$ j+ Z1 X, H 10.7.4 Fabric density/织物密度 113( N1 V8 r* `( d5 L0 P2 G. O
10.7.5 Fabric count/织物经纬密度 113
8 @! ~% K: {* K 10.7.6 Fabric defects/织物疵点 113
' W! r! J9 n7 _# D- L Questions/思考题 113
! p; F8 p8 S9 p/ x( T' J Chapter 11 Knitted Fabrics/针织物 1147 p* M2 N6 V+ K$ U" E
11.1 Making of knitted fabric/针织物形成 114
" j- X) l: K. k5 `5 |9 o, D7 k8 q 11.1.1 The forming of knitted stitches/线圈的形成 114
. M. b7 I" S: f. Y9 r' s+ O 11.1.2 Types of knitted stitches/线圈的种类 116) S' \+ \( ~+ V- i$ Z- [/ f
11.2 Weft knits/纬编针织物 117
. ~ T* k- p- X; u: N$ w 11.2.1 Jersey knit fabric/纬平针织物 117' L6 D! u, n( F# J- r5 |" Q, i% |
11.2.2 Rib knit fabric/罗纹针织物 118
3 i( r3 g2 T6 s 11.2.3 Purl knit fabric/双反面针织物 119
; l( H/ ]. }, I. e. w 11.2.4 Double knits/双面针织物 120
0 P; w4 l9 u! B# l2 K 11.2.5 Full-fashioned knits/全成形针织物 120: Y" v% F- [- N/ O% |' \
11.3 Warp knits/经编针织物 121* i8 W4 f/ [5 d' \9 F4 x0 Z
11.3.1 Tricot fabrics/特里科经编针织物 121
n7 K) I# t" I 11.3.2 Raschel fabrics/拉舍尔经编针织物 122
: k: S+ {' B: w 11.4 Performance and characteristics/性能和参数 122
3 F- {$ K5 ~6 ?; e Questions/思考题 1234 j' X5 ^, ~0 o+ g( G$ m' ?
Chapter 12 Nonwoven Fabrics/非织造布 124
% F, ]* w3 t B 12.1 Introduction/导论 124
: I/ G- ?# G) v* @ g 12.2 Manufacturing methods/生产方法 125
- A! \; I* k$ f7 S* i) u! E$ a 12.2.1 Dry laid system/干法成网 125! k$ n4 E, t. m8 ^8 D
12.2.2 Wet laid system/湿法成网 125
( K9 G5 z* }% B2 f' t c- X 12.2.3 Polymer laid system/聚合物挤压法 125% ^" U) K, t1 |. U! o p& Z
12.3 Various nonwovens/各种非织造布 125
$ _1 u- F+ v3 x6 `7 Q+ U 12.3.1 Needle punched nonwovens/针刺法非织造布 1250 W& d( O( A) [3 S: K7 m6 b
12.3.2 Bonded web nonwovens/黏合法非织造布 126) C; y3 h5 m9 w0 |. j
12.3.3 Spunlaced nonwovens/射流喷网法非织造布 127# W% {9 E2 C ]2 w$ p# S
12.3.4 Spunbonded nonwovens/纺粘法非织造布 128
# b* k) Y9 q& n; l& ~% | 12.3.5 Melt-blown nonwovens/熔喷法非织造布 1295 i& q2 n8 P# F% f& a( B( o
Questions/思考题 129
# S W& s0 O! ^5 bPart Ⅴ Textile Testing/纺织品测试 1302 H8 ^2 T8 a. ^ X0 a+ h
Chapter 13 General Test Methods/常规测试方法 130
' O9 T' q" x7 r7 z! g8 O+ V 13.1 General fiber tests/纤维常规测试 130. b' [' W" M1 q- g8 g3 m
13.1.1 Fiber identification/纤维鉴别 130
- v2 s3 X0 d1 I/ c 13.1.2 Fiber length/纤维长度 1348 ~+ k" e" T! e7 d1 c, ]
13.1.3 Fiber fineness or linear density/纤维细度或线密度 135
; s% J) x* t% \/ m4 u; X$ X8 B 13.1.4 Cross-sectional shape/截面形状 135& F- m% n# T* P, ^' ~" L5 M
13.1.5 Crimp/卷曲 135% @( ?7 r3 u( ^" i" L9 C" d6 |1 o
13.1.6 Regain/回潮率 136% n$ A: d7 N6 j/ T' k5 n
13.1.7 Mechanical properties/机械性能 136
" d" ], Y/ U0 s) m% U1 `# ^8 }: u 13.1.8 Chemical characteristics/化学性能 136
$ P( g8 B. b6 `4 o0 N( w7 f 13.1.9 Surface characteristics/表面性能 1362 m! ?% r! R. ~* Z3 Y7 A
13.1.10 Density and specific gravity/密度和相对密度 137
1 ~! Q: Q) I. ^ 13.2 Special tests for natural fibers/天然纤维的测试 137/ i( N0 X z B* F8 \
13.2.1 Tests for cotton/棉纤维测试 137
, o* {, B: t6 m) Y9 i4 {0 X 13.2.2 Tests for wool/毛纤维测试 139+ @4 V2 j/ z: M% _$ N$ G6 R
13.3 Testing of tensile properties/拉伸性能测试 140
$ |& N# x9 [- R% l) n S* O 13.3.1 Description of tensile proprieties/拉伸性能的描述 141
9 c( k s$ C }$ E. | D 13.3.2 Fiber and yarn tensile testing/纤维和纱线拉伸性能的测试 146
e% }* v( A; _! X+ r- W, e4 h( Z- V 13.3.3 Fabric tensile testing/织物拉伸性能测试方法 147
7 y8 o: t# i* Z Questions/思考题 149
1 J/ v( _) o6 `5 X8 S8 n- a D Chapter 14 Fabric Abrasion and Pilling/织物磨损与起球 150; M# o, I. T$ H8 D, R d; a
14.1 Types of abrasion/磨损的类型 150
. f! s( E0 o5 L3 P 14.1.1 Abrasion between fabrics/织物间的磨损 150
( m6 d$ n- d& | 14.1.2 Abrasion between fabric and a nontextile surface/织物与非纤维制品表面磨损 150( o5 O0 l' ?- }: C$ I! W
14.1.3 Abrasion within fabric/织物内部磨损 151# g! P5 b5 W" B. o( [
14.1.4 Abrasion by foreign materials within the fabric/与织物内部其他材料的磨损 151* g% ?* w/ U/ z9 H- y/ o
14.2 Factors affecting fabric abrasion resistance/影响耐磨性能的因素 151: q- @1 k5 C# l4 `( {" D. _
14.2.1 Fabric properties/织物性能 1514 ?7 V0 j P% v( E; h5 J- b; Y# Z, G Y
14.2.2 Other factors/其他因素 153/ a* b0 ^* u& y0 T
14.3 Abrasion testing/磨损测试 154
! Q- g2 A$ }. \! C 14.3.1 Visual comparison with an unabraded specimen/与未磨损样品视觉对比 154
# D% h% G0 I) [6 K3 t 14.3.2 Number of cycles to produce a hole/产生磨损破洞需要的摩擦圈数 154
+ H4 `, |9 L; H! _, i) t 14.3.3 Change in a physical property/物理性能的变化 154- i$ d9 m, N) }9 q7 A, o% q8 Y
14.3.4 Microscopic examination/显微镜观测 155 M: z; ]2 v, T& {8 |/ x; w
14.4 Aesthetics of abrasion and wear/穿着和磨损对美感的影响 155
. ~7 G7 J! @4 V 14.4.1 Color changes caused by abrasion/磨损引起的颜色变化 155
! M8 D% s$ `5 o3 {$ Z7 U0 s) a6 A' Y 14.4.2 Pilling/起球 156% a( h5 L- u1 H0 [% d
Questions/思考题 157
) M: j1 j2 Q! S6 k u( y# ^ Chapter 15 Fabric Hand and Drape/织物手感与悬垂 158% s# _3 i( D6 z9 N
15.1 Fabric hand/织物手感 158; u9 b0 M. J4 O) o, p* V4 L3 S) `
15.2 Fabric drape/织物悬垂 159
# d3 [& L( G4 ?; \6 V0 X 15.3 Measurement of hand and drape/手感与悬垂的评价 161
, @! S o4 i8 I; e) I0 u 15.3.1 Subjective evaluation/主观评定法 161! @& O9 G+ c7 L
15.3.2 Quantitative measurement/定量评定法 162
+ _/ [* `& ~* C: i" w 15.3.3 Kawabata evaluation system/KES评定法 163 Y$ M! R: x3 |
Questions/思考题 163" w" D# z8 g: B6 I! e3 m$ K; \
Chapter 16 Fabric Colorfastness/织物染色牢度 1641 ]$ k# K& L! Q) F# ^0 P
16.1 Evaluation of color and colorfastness/颜色和染色牢度评定方法 1644 r( m* }3 G5 Q" y/ j# h
16.2 Colorfastness tests/染色牢度测试 164
1 F l* M5 f* Y/ a+ S5 N: I 16.2.1 Colorfastness to crocking/耐摩擦色牢度 164% \. u! _" Z9 L7 B9 d! m; a
16.2.2 Colorfastness to laundering and bleaching/耐洗涤和耐漂白色牢 165
- ]/ @* p/ ^3 h( `5 i4 e( k 16.2.3 Colorfastness to drycleaning/耐干洗色牢度 166' Q& C' E5 Z9 q$ @& a1 J
16.2.4 Colorfastness to perspiration/耐汗渍色牢度 166) ~, m# t& {8 {: c
16.2.5 Colorfastness to water/耐水浸色牢度 166/ v% k/ P0 N6 b2 R1 E
16.2.6 Colorfastness to light/耐光照色牢度 167
0 C% e* b7 C% |5 M, u N0 q2 h 16.2.7 Colorfastness to atmospheric contaminants/耐空气污染色牢度 168
6 C/ y* F2 a2 P: c% U/ D0 _9 @ Questions/思考题 168( ^" i1 G, y: g- V
Chapter 17 Fabric Flammability/织物可燃性 169
7 p2 Q7 d5 ~/ ?- C1 A 17.1 Flammability standards/可燃性标准 169
/ P, P' z E7 h. b) F9 L5 p 17.2 Properties affecting flammability/影响可燃性的因素 169" {# ` R) f7 r5 o9 b1 M% U. G
17.3 Flammability testing/可燃性测试 171
2 S, {) m) Y- v% I$ u- a 17.3.1 Forty-five degree angle test/45°燃烧测试法 1717 R5 n# ~4 E0 g: }
17.3.2 Vertical flame tests/垂直燃烧测试法 172) n o. K6 f* Z
17.3.3 Carpet testing/地毯测试 172# ^5 x2 {9 ^* k* r% T" ~0 H8 h! b
17.3.4 Cigarette tests/卷烟点燃测试 172; k0 D3 r# I3 Z& j- s ]! t6 i4 d
17.3.5 Other standard flammability tests/其他可燃性测试 173% W r+ D* M+ {& p, D
Questions/思考题 1732 a$ L8 y: U1 N9 q' B
Chapter 18 Comfort of Textiles/纺织品舒适性 1740 t! O( S% H. m7 |. g
18.1 Physical phenomena affecting thermal comfort/影响热舒适性能的物理现象 174
. F& g# s0 a4 R. D X 18.1.1 Heat transfer/热传递 174
3 h' Z8 L' T: S# q* m8 j 18.1.2 Moisture transfer/湿传递 175
; E4 z1 o. Z# j( p1 X; Z 18.1.3 Water resistance/抗水性 175
1 o: @6 F1 y; D- f: [ 18.1.4 Air transfer/透气性 176$ }6 W: J$ w8 w: t
18.1.5 Porosity and cover factor/多孔性和覆盖系数 176
2 S, O5 W$ c! w4 e2 E& Q 18.1.6 Electrostatic propensity/静电 177
- p7 ^. L7 ]$ P3 K' h7 [8 R' H 18.2 Evaluations of textile properties related to comfort/与舒适性相关的纺织品性能评价 177
( |' L4 ? a3 R: q" z% ^6 K 18.2.1 Heat transfer/热传递 1782 p* K) s% z9 ~. ` C" g" G( q
18.2.2 Moisture properties/湿传递性能 179( i$ N. c, G2 z
18.2.3 Air permeability/透气性 179
% n8 p: A& o) ^9 } 18.2.4 Porosity/孔隙率 180$ M! w8 \% W0 M0 U' ^# |% h6 T: w- }
18.2.5 Electrostatic tests/静电测试 180
# ]# q& z# h* N Z1 @6 a Questions/思考题 180
) V8 T) ]0 }# O1 s9 J0 EAppendix/附录 181: d g- ~3 `* Z- O
AATCC:AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS/美国纺织化学家与染色家协会 181( b5 W/ k" W3 q$ _! m
ASTM:AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR TESTING AND MATERIALS/美国材料试验学会 184
( A) V* v7 t% @1 _/ X, g- e$ iVocabulary/词汇表 189 _7 H, V2 J7 s( b4 o) j
References/参考文献 197
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