
纺织材料学(双语教材),刘妍,熊磊,PDF。普通高等教育“十一五”国家级规划教材(本科),纺织工程专业双语教材,电子目录,14M。$ v3 c3 r" \3 L3 G0 o- g2 M
9 b* e' B% C& h5 g" v% |内容提要' w6 _4 b; \) Y( F# J) r
本书讨论了纤维、纱线与织物(包括机织物、针织物及非织造布)的结构、机械性能、物理性能及使用性能。涉及的纤维势括天然纤维(如棉、毛、麻、丝等)、传统化学纤维及新型化学纤维。本书同时介绍了纤维、纱线和织物的各种标准测试方法(包括国际上常用的ASTM, AATCC及GB等方法),并讨论了与各种测试方法有关的测试原理及对测试结果的影响因素。
2 X: Y) W, g i8 R本书可供高等纺织院校纺织、服装相关专业的本科生及研究生作为《纺织材料学》的双语教材或专业英语教材,也可供其他专业师生、纺织贸易专业人员和科研及生产单位的技术人员参考。
1 n5 x( U/ e8 W" Q7 g# x% r目录2 h. C$ N$ q$ K8 S3 n# V* ^
Part Ⅰ An Introduction to Textiles/纺织入门 18( y7 O4 ?2 ~' O8 q1 u
Chapter 1 Introduction/介绍 181 h0 @; q& M! a* u7 I
1.1 ASTM Standard Terminology Relating to Textiles/ASTM纺织标准术语 18
, {7 _; N0 G& {. Y$ C3 ^4 K 1.2 Fiber history/纤维历史 26/ d. D: E6 Y8 q6 Q
1.2.1 Natural fibers/天然纤维 26
7 q) a( O6 W3 ^0 W; m: D# k1 c 1.2.2 Man-made fibers/化学纤维 27- e; G% E7 u% Z/ {# b( q
Questions/思考题 30" P" n1 q; @$ ?( c9 ~, o& w# S
Part Ⅱ Textile Fibers/纺织纤维 32, f+ \/ N0 `! H. [$ }6 ]
Chapter 2 Natural Cellulosic Fibers/天然纤维素纤维 32
+ w ^6 [; G( w2 K 2.1 Cotton/棉 33& N/ o, W( D" X" Z8 T7 E# x
2.1.1 Nature of cotton/棉花的种类 337 A3 `$ k( ^7 `, V) o' N( q$ C
2.1.2 Classification/分类 34
, c# \0 m3 a" i ~( n% R8 F 2.1.3 Growth and structure of cotton/棉纤维的生长与结构 345 a/ y$ C, ?4 S* c
2.1.4 Maturity/成熟度 36
5 G! k4 R" H0 }- ~- u$ q9 c 2.1.5 Cotton properties/棉纤维的性能 38
0 N) z0 \) M7 C( h2 { 2.1.6 Cotton classification/棉花分级 39
% u Y' z2 ]6 O; h# `/ [" ]" { 2.2 Bast fibers/韧皮纤维 401 @5 `* I; B- h8 G) U$ b
2.2.1 Flax (linen)/亚麻,亚麻织物 41+ b2 o* F; V0 w& f/ o, S5 k6 _
2.2.2 Ramie/苎麻 43: a8 }4 P$ w$ l+ i; M3 F
2.2.3 Hemp/汉麻 443 I* x, W% v5 ~
2.2.4 Jute/黄麻 44
1 k; k& \ {7 w. H; |/ }/ ~ Questions/思考题 45
U4 J/ I+ \/ [$ i! S Chapter 3 Natural Protein Fibers/天然蛋白质纤维 46$ z2 a+ Q6 L3 B
3.1 Wool/绵羊毛 46/ I( B9 G! K, p: O% X
3.1.1 Wool production and history/羊毛生产和历史 462 [3 @3 h* h E/ B
3.1.2 Wool grading/羊毛分级 47
' l7 \/ f$ c3 q3 ?' A 3.1.3 Wool structure/羊毛结构 47
% s" x, y( @0 P. e/ \ 3.1.4 Wool properties/羊毛性能 48
& ^# P* k" y5 ]2 @ 3.2 Specialty animal fibers/特种动物毛 515 e, h- r, r7 x* j
3.3 Silk/丝 52% _' ^7 g5 m e; {
Questions/思考题 54; T8 _ K! r7 d$ w
Chapter 4 Man-made Fibers/化学纤维 55
* V7 L" n! Q/ ~ 4.1 Manufacturing processing of fiber/纤维生产工艺 55
* m! P' h2 G3 n) G1 M9 N2 V 4.1.1 Wet spinning/湿法纺丝 56+ N: |0 I# U6 a3 R9 N j
4.1.2 Dry spinning/干法纺丝 561 C: n" }/ M+ a. J/ t
4.1.3 Melt spinning/熔体法纺丝 56
0 V J/ j" j( |0 [6 ?- U7 U 4.1.4 Gel spinning/凝胶纺丝 57+ {1 E5 _; V- Q" c0 `7 c
4.2 Regenerated fibers/再生纤维 57& @6 c( j7 I& W- s0 f: N9 Z4 R
4.2.1 Acetate/醋酯纤维 57
. R' i- Y( }. ~+ | 4.2.2 Triacetate/三醋酯纤维 59. l& Q( D& ^; c) I2 \
4.2.3 Viscose fibers/粘胶纤维 59
( r* c C0 c- T7 Z' z 4.3 Synthetic fibers/合成纤维 60
6 m* r- Q; N3 ` s1 \ 4.3.1 Acrylic/腈纶 608 a% Z& {$ U' i% g! t4 S7 m
4.3.2 Modacrylic/改性腈纶 61
+ G- Q8 `' H& P2 k/ a6 I0 d 4.3.3 Nylon/锦纶 61- J s* D- z4 }( \. E# F
4.3.4 Polyester/涤纶 62
$ T5 x/ N1 K$ H8 K; M5 |6 W 4.3.5 PBI/聚苯并咪唑纤维 63
8 R9 h- M; R* r; I 4.3.6 Vinal/聚乙烯醇纤维 63+ g* d( C! N/ M. \, ]5 H
4.3.7 Olefin/聚烯烃纤维 63 e: E7 I- C* ^# M% q" K P" P, I1 q
4.3.8 Aramid/芳纶 647 W; ]& x3 ]2 i* Z! i( g g0 T$ K
4.3.9 Lycra/莱卡 643 Q4 D7 r: d* W2 y0 |$ Y
4.4 Other man-made fibers/其他化学纤维 66: S! c2 V: P9 H( T6 L7 l
4.4.1 Glass/玻璃纤维 66& {# Q; p5 n+ e9 g1 R! `
4.4.2 Metallic/金属纤维 67$ O9 ~9 S3 j+ S" @5 c1 k# t/ |4 V
Questions/思考题 678 I* G1 f7 ?8 T" p. @6 ~8 a/ u
Chapter 5 New Fibers/新型纤维 68
m; G' f# d8 w3 i* w+ F8 h 5.1 Carbon fibers/碳纤维 68( V1 @, {* @. S9 |2 f" @4 Q. A6 @: t
5.2 Fluorocarbon/氟碳纤维 68/ p6 f r. l$ \+ s" k2 U7 [: x. I
5.3 Lyocell fibers(Tencel)/莱塞尔纤维 68
5 M. }% s. a7 r1 U2 K 5.4 High-wet-modulus fibers/高湿模量纤维 698 p a6 f$ B. W% R, }% I
5.4.1 Modal fibers/莫代尔纤维 69
8 J0 d, O# l' S/ s0 j6 j2 N* S3 _ 5.4.2 Richcel/丽赛纤维 70
5 Y, w: G" ]7 y+ M# R* T- B: u0 m 5.5 Soybean protein composite fibers/大豆蛋白复合纤维 70
+ s6 t ]; Q+ q& q; i- z! X 5.6 PLA fiber/聚左旋乳酸纤维 71% r' }) g. i+ s
5.7 Heterogenous fibers/复合纤维 716 R/ V/ X! f, |; B. w
5.7.1 Bicomponent or multicomponent/双组分或多组分 72" \; ~: n. }% v. c
5.7.2 Biconstituent or multiconstituent/双成分或多成分 73
$ F1 K2 B/ i6 B: H$ P' P% z9 ~ 5.7.3 Matrix or matrix-fibril/基质型纤维 73
; Z: y& D g8 K# q! \9 T7 b 5.8 Differential fibers/差别化纤维 74
, x. w9 t4 u6 ? 5.9 Functional fibers/功能性纤维 74
& V' G) U# W3 B H" b 5.10 High performance fibers/高性能纤维 74
9 B, n" T5 q' q, q9 z Questions/思考题 74
7 f+ \0 r$ I% e* C ^4 \ Chapter 6 The Property of Absorbing Moisture/吸湿性 759 E8 a0 D* L. C- e& w
6.1 Orientation and crystallization/取向与结晶 75+ q; ^, @' K% p
6.2 Moisture sorption/吸湿性 75
# ~8 A2 I) I2 V+ w+ e( C) E 6.2.1 Regain and moisture content/回潮率与含水率 75: {' |/ U+ j+ l% a" m0 b
6.2.2 Relation between regain and relative humidity/回潮率与相对湿度的关系 75
6 |: M: K4 u4 p6 Q a 6.2.3 Comparison of various materials/不同材料吸湿性的对比 76
0 q j* X0 C- L3 |% L 6.2.4 Theories of moisture sorption/吸湿理论 78
2 c) u3 S- G. @0 W4 E. O) y Questions/思考题 80
. j; i7 F7 I* q& ^. j Chapter 7 Other Physical Properties of Textile Fibers/纤维的其他物理性能 81
9 V3 B7 K" ]% L/ e7 i 7.1 Electronic properties/电学性能 81
$ ]1 @ A+ s. a4 N7 P* C 7.1.1 Definitions/定义 81# T1 |2 p* e; L: g9 W
7.2 Optical properties/光学性能 82- C, a" D3 M0 l3 M
7.3 Thermal properties/热学性能 83 O, z9 }! o; Y+ Z) {, o o$ R" f
7.3.1 Thermal parameters/热力学参数 83
0 e: `/ @3 U' Z6 E" J' ` 7.3.2 A comparison of temperature effects/温度效应比较 83$ ~2 B( \9 _, y: v
Questions/思考题 83! c' e7 X7 G8 ` i
Part Ⅲ Textile Yarns/纺织纱线 840 L: }9 g. x8 M. I+ O7 s
Chapter 8 Yarn Processing and Construction/纱线制造与结构 84
0 L1 g. F5 i6 o 8.1 Spun yarns/短纤纱 855 } p( f0 K1 o3 @" {, E4 F% u
8.2 Filament yarns/长丝纱 85
1 k- i" q4 R- n2 F0 l" `, W 8.3 Methods of yarn processing/纺纱方法 85( W% j; e- l- s) T, [) Z
8.3.1 Ring-spinning/环锭纺 866 p% X$ e% T) p& V! y
8.3.2 New methods of yarn processing/新型纺纱方法 86( t( _ [2 X, s5 V
8.4 Single and ply yarns/单纱和股线 89$ J2 T) Q; l& ^$ x6 v& k
8.5 Special types of yarn/特种纱线 90+ I% |" x( p1 W. S2 R; b+ {* v
8.5.1 Fancy yarns/花式纱 90
8 h8 Q' s! b4 i) C9 d 8.5.2 Stretch yarns/弹力纱 91
" Z) }% \5 S% l1 z* L# O 8.5.3 Textured yarns 变形纱线 91
}& H' W; ]5 q; ~ 8.6 Blends and mixtures yarns/纱线混纺与混用 92
& l3 c- _1 E E Questions/思考题 93
% E& A6 ?0 R2 G( Y Chapter 9 Yarn Properties/纱线性能 94/ t0 C0 B/ x" ~% r9 i- l7 D
9.1 Yarn number/纱线细度 94
- d2 p1 S, f5 k. A! S$ [% L 9.1.1 Denier system/旦数 94
9 i5 _, B. |* V7 r 9.1.2 Yarn count system/纱线英制支数 946 \2 k/ p$ M5 h8 [" s2 X
9.1.3 Tex system/线密度 95! v/ q9 x% [2 z+ K
9.1.4 Metric numbering system/公制支数 95
. b1 O& e6 J3 C8 l6 w, @' Z 9.1.5 Conversion in different systems/不同系统之间的换算 95# S) i9 Q0 y& Q* \ V6 ~3 f7 K' A$ n
9.2 Ply yarn counts and singles equivalent/股线支数与单纱支数 95
! N8 G) {4 O( V 9.3 Yarn twist/纱线捻度 96; M1 O3 `# }$ T' a5 v
9.4 Yarn hairiness/纱线毛羽 976 P2 |& [$ W v, Q9 T
9.4.1 Hairiness test method/毛羽测试方法 98( m1 }- h9 s, G) }1 C, {
9.4.2 Factors affecting hairiness/影响毛羽的因素 984 b$ z! r0 z7 I/ x" Z4 w
9.5 Yarn unevenness/纱线不匀 99* H) |$ `5 f; l0 g8 s
9.5.1 Test of yarn unevenness/纱线不匀的测试 99% b$ R6 ^0 u7 Z; t& }/ |& n
9.5.2 Reasons for yarn unevenness/纱线不匀的原因 1007 g/ v- i3 b2 X B
9.6 Classification of yarn quality/纱线质量分析 1004 h; N- ~& C: o$ \' X
Questions/思考题 100
% ~9 \; ^. |4 e0 y# k" D/ h! c0 E; mPart Ⅳ Textile Fabrics/织物 1020 W+ W r# L4 y6 I
Chapter 10 Woven Fabrics/机织物 1029 G" V8 S9 f6 O
10.1 Making woven fabrics/织制机织物 102: S) Y$ x) T) P# j! P# [+ L
10.1.1 The loom/织机 102. m9 F+ v. @5 h5 n2 [$ k; J2 L6 o
10.1.2 Loom type/织机类型 104
4 m& I& g9 G, _4 y 10.1.3 Loom motions/织机运动 104
3 G& d& Y% b4 q5 C& I, {( k8 S 10.1.4 Electronics in weaving/电子技术在织机中的应用 105/ [ ^/ ?9 Y6 E
10.1.5 The selvage/布边 105
4 v- `/ z+ q8 v9 ?$ N8 F. H 10.2 Warp yarns and filling yarns/经纱和纬纱 105: J5 y ] [5 Z q9 A4 @
10.2.1 Identification/鉴别 106
/ Y$ o. _, W6 V3 V$ k* N 10.3 Face and back/正面与反面 106
7 ?7 X: U4 N! z' J7 r" h L f 10.3.1 Reasons for differenee/存在差异的原因 107
( S. R O' m) Y. h* s8 o" C) t6 P5 k. U! ? 10.3.2 Caution/应用的要点 107' H9 @3 |% B: u# l) ]! p# i
10.4 Top and bottom/顶端和底端 107
' s5 @5 D% F2 r' c 10.4.1 Reasons for difference/存在差异的原因 107
# L2 v5 s! @3 l5 y# o. P 10.5 Weave floats/组织浮线 108% P7 u ^; h" R
10.6 Basic weaves/基本组织 108) s& T! g* k( v
10.6.1 Plain weave/平纹组织 108
" ~4 l; q% g8 |' [ 10.6.2 Twill weave/斜纹组织 109
% ~% b5 K, F7 B$ S) A( f Y+ [' D, z9 G 10.6.3 Satin weave/缎纹组织 111) M1 y0 Q) X9 G9 r4 H
10.7 Fabric performance and characteristics/织物性能和参数 112% Q* t3 y% I( \3 r) l
10.7.1 Fabric width/幅宽 112, F5 P! A" B2 P' u% q: \
10.7.2 Fabric weight/织物重量 1126 B* V8 `) D& ~2 ~/ s# @- x
10.7.3 Fabric thickness/织物厚度 113* j% {* ?8 Q7 k% a7 y7 F
10.7.4 Fabric density/织物密度 113
' C0 e3 |' N$ n 10.7.5 Fabric count/织物经纬密度 1133 ?8 b/ K0 Y" K! }
10.7.6 Fabric defects/织物疵点 113
- N( b$ A9 M5 |3 B2 @- {7 B7 X Questions/思考题 113
, q9 B n9 G6 v/ F1 k, R Chapter 11 Knitted Fabrics/针织物 114
! e2 T4 I2 F1 s% y# Y" G& X, j7 T 11.1 Making of knitted fabric/针织物形成 114* n8 i/ y a6 X6 [2 d- a/ k
11.1.1 The forming of knitted stitches/线圈的形成 114
+ V# i! P+ V# i% Q& I2 ? 11.1.2 Types of knitted stitches/线圈的种类 116+ E% X( K8 h6 o! J
11.2 Weft knits/纬编针织物 117
7 Z2 B5 r1 a; l6 U# D3 s 11.2.1 Jersey knit fabric/纬平针织物 117
* T* W6 a. @2 Q9 U$ |7 M* T0 e 11.2.2 Rib knit fabric/罗纹针织物 118
( u( w7 s7 |& R! N l 11.2.3 Purl knit fabric/双反面针织物 119
! |( S, M6 }1 v 11.2.4 Double knits/双面针织物 120) N( Z7 i2 a( y% b3 Y8 s4 c" U
11.2.5 Full-fashioned knits/全成形针织物 120
" B$ x* G3 ]9 b# f! x R2 S 11.3 Warp knits/经编针织物 121! {/ i/ {8 ^: e7 B/ h! |" e9 g( v
11.3.1 Tricot fabrics/特里科经编针织物 121
9 G- ^% f- r' E2 Q/ E 11.3.2 Raschel fabrics/拉舍尔经编针织物 1224 W( w; i9 D3 Q! a* |( J
11.4 Performance and characteristics/性能和参数 122: w o* ]( M& T/ c2 W% |
Questions/思考题 123/ H/ Q2 b3 U* p0 Y) D
Chapter 12 Nonwoven Fabrics/非织造布 124
) M1 K0 b$ F- n$ j3 ]- z% w3 x$ k 12.1 Introduction/导论 124
( ^4 F* ^+ d, l 12.2 Manufacturing methods/生产方法 125
( W! u: w" _0 R( q* ~, S 12.2.1 Dry laid system/干法成网 125
$ T$ Y% z* s6 t# U5 J+ v s- I 12.2.2 Wet laid system/湿法成网 125
% f4 R' N4 M2 ^' T+ _ 12.2.3 Polymer laid system/聚合物挤压法 125
( R2 O# i1 w0 y 12.3 Various nonwovens/各种非织造布 125
* a. f0 U# {# U; ^8 V 12.3.1 Needle punched nonwovens/针刺法非织造布 125
% ?3 b0 U3 e% m7 p 12.3.2 Bonded web nonwovens/黏合法非织造布 1265 l. u/ r+ j% `+ N& A: l7 q+ A+ `
12.3.3 Spunlaced nonwovens/射流喷网法非织造布 127
: v% s9 ~: t+ o6 [, ?, j7 v" Q 12.3.4 Spunbonded nonwovens/纺粘法非织造布 128
0 U: H! c( v" t 12.3.5 Melt-blown nonwovens/熔喷法非织造布 129
! e6 `; K; v0 u- f Questions/思考题 1299 _& N4 C/ l! y: b( F
Part Ⅴ Textile Testing/纺织品测试 130
& i: _9 l6 _# x Chapter 13 General Test Methods/常规测试方法 130
; o; c% z4 i) |( r 13.1 General fiber tests/纤维常规测试 130
; w3 j# ~, w# i) q 13.1.1 Fiber identification/纤维鉴别 1309 r" e8 Q) d% d. \
13.1.2 Fiber length/纤维长度 134
1 Z) Z2 Y! ~5 o6 P6 O) Q4 w 13.1.3 Fiber fineness or linear density/纤维细度或线密度 135
8 b) e& X, {- ^) k4 [ 13.1.4 Cross-sectional shape/截面形状 135. v: u0 [1 E. D& a7 M
13.1.5 Crimp/卷曲 1356 ~) P3 h P% K( q- g
13.1.6 Regain/回潮率 136
2 k8 Y3 k2 R5 i% o3 s% r$ O+ A# l 13.1.7 Mechanical properties/机械性能 136
0 v2 D$ g+ j5 G 13.1.8 Chemical characteristics/化学性能 136
" z1 G+ t' \6 d$ Z2 \# q' l 13.1.9 Surface characteristics/表面性能 1369 y5 X/ ~$ q- |
13.1.10 Density and specific gravity/密度和相对密度 137' o0 L/ i( q" v+ O; F- ]
13.2 Special tests for natural fibers/天然纤维的测试 137; s# b- K j$ h F! R- I; t
13.2.1 Tests for cotton/棉纤维测试 137
- M1 D! n/ p" Z' v 13.2.2 Tests for wool/毛纤维测试 139
9 m. r/ ~. [9 l2 T 13.3 Testing of tensile properties/拉伸性能测试 1407 |8 \& @! l5 Q
13.3.1 Description of tensile proprieties/拉伸性能的描述 1415 F! t$ a4 R) M4 h
13.3.2 Fiber and yarn tensile testing/纤维和纱线拉伸性能的测试 146) s. [3 O) h% [
13.3.3 Fabric tensile testing/织物拉伸性能测试方法 147! I/ G) y- ~ p( M- w' D
Questions/思考题 149+ y- m) Y& `2 ^: X4 O. E, S/ g) B
Chapter 14 Fabric Abrasion and Pilling/织物磨损与起球 1505 S+ Y; O! _4 m
14.1 Types of abrasion/磨损的类型 1501 c; z' ?6 o( L& i4 }2 [
14.1.1 Abrasion between fabrics/织物间的磨损 150
' Y8 |* p( \0 K: t1 D9 e! @& ~& H9 m 14.1.2 Abrasion between fabric and a nontextile surface/织物与非纤维制品表面磨损 1508 Q# W, P( b' E5 h6 Q
14.1.3 Abrasion within fabric/织物内部磨损 151
* Z; M( |! N" M0 S 14.1.4 Abrasion by foreign materials within the fabric/与织物内部其他材料的磨损 151
7 R e# y K# u! G; u2 y 14.2 Factors affecting fabric abrasion resistance/影响耐磨性能的因素 151: M. E( W0 ~' V
14.2.1 Fabric properties/织物性能 151
( f& o6 n/ o" G# ]9 l- ^% R4 r/ k0 M 14.2.2 Other factors/其他因素 1537 ? ?) j. i8 V4 C% O! p
14.3 Abrasion testing/磨损测试 154$ g/ S0 j* J7 l5 k
14.3.1 Visual comparison with an unabraded specimen/与未磨损样品视觉对比 154
& g$ I2 v n" b7 x) G5 Y8 o: X 14.3.2 Number of cycles to produce a hole/产生磨损破洞需要的摩擦圈数 154" Z `% n" B8 k
14.3.3 Change in a physical property/物理性能的变化 1547 g& |4 r# }$ [. v Y0 [' ]
14.3.4 Microscopic examination/显微镜观测 155
) ~& a$ x% _ | 14.4 Aesthetics of abrasion and wear/穿着和磨损对美感的影响 1558 m( L& T; ?& s1 o- N( |: Y0 y7 }
14.4.1 Color changes caused by abrasion/磨损引起的颜色变化 155
6 a" m+ H# X' M1 R8 q3 f 14.4.2 Pilling/起球 156
j1 s/ W( y0 N! Y5 q7 }' D Questions/思考题 157
2 e- H3 m: K7 H* n$ c5 I! p Chapter 15 Fabric Hand and Drape/织物手感与悬垂 1589 B# c9 t4 C! I6 C; E
15.1 Fabric hand/织物手感 158/ H7 |1 {8 P6 @& u/ l3 B" p
15.2 Fabric drape/织物悬垂 159
7 a6 Z# S% p# h2 N7 X# _( p& ^) K/ a 15.3 Measurement of hand and drape/手感与悬垂的评价 161
0 ]0 E! {0 }$ b' g0 J! o 15.3.1 Subjective evaluation/主观评定法 161
7 P2 e9 {' R, d4 o# S5 z* N, x- F 15.3.2 Quantitative measurement/定量评定法 162
! w0 i8 ~/ T; C, K1 _: g4 t: N 15.3.3 Kawabata evaluation system/KES评定法 1637 ]) U4 w7 U" a" a3 B" \% w. ?: k
Questions/思考题 163
z3 e" `4 F( Z+ U/ [ Chapter 16 Fabric Colorfastness/织物染色牢度 1641 e$ R* K) _8 U8 E' g& E
16.1 Evaluation of color and colorfastness/颜色和染色牢度评定方法 164! p: S2 z' C) Q% N2 D* t) f
16.2 Colorfastness tests/染色牢度测试 164, | j/ I5 F Z( A3 Q( L, n
16.2.1 Colorfastness to crocking/耐摩擦色牢度 164
8 B# v0 e( m/ P( u 16.2.2 Colorfastness to laundering and bleaching/耐洗涤和耐漂白色牢 1650 K( q# Z. O, L& M* ~
16.2.3 Colorfastness to drycleaning/耐干洗色牢度 166
+ L; U& f& I# `+ w. h0 F 16.2.4 Colorfastness to perspiration/耐汗渍色牢度 166& ?3 c' D. F* k1 w! A
16.2.5 Colorfastness to water/耐水浸色牢度 166
# K. w# H K' ` w7 N& Q 16.2.6 Colorfastness to light/耐光照色牢度 167! S, X* n6 L2 j
16.2.7 Colorfastness to atmospheric contaminants/耐空气污染色牢度 1688 R- ?3 R3 b. O
Questions/思考题 168( E; s1 A( H9 ?3 z
Chapter 17 Fabric Flammability/织物可燃性 1697 x+ f& x: W4 ?7 q+ {5 I) z
17.1 Flammability standards/可燃性标准 169
1 C2 ^4 i t3 D- i) P; O 17.2 Properties affecting flammability/影响可燃性的因素 169
- I" ?& z& J7 i h& G3 c 17.3 Flammability testing/可燃性测试 171
( ^9 M$ j: y5 X7 G 17.3.1 Forty-five degree angle test/45°燃烧测试法 171
; l2 n6 M6 n$ l i$ }# W1 J9 l; @ 17.3.2 Vertical flame tests/垂直燃烧测试法 172- f5 V+ g. n r1 g
17.3.3 Carpet testing/地毯测试 172# \4 ~; r, k/ l$ }
17.3.4 Cigarette tests/卷烟点燃测试 172- b' }9 f$ M( o) t4 R* \! R
17.3.5 Other standard flammability tests/其他可燃性测试 173
+ x, `9 a* `. ?+ K; O. |: g Questions/思考题 173
6 ^# g& `9 j; ]; {7 F& l Chapter 18 Comfort of Textiles/纺织品舒适性 174, \' X6 i! f$ e M5 \8 \5 l7 k
18.1 Physical phenomena affecting thermal comfort/影响热舒适性能的物理现象 1749 Y. w/ R& }; ~; ~4 ~. w
18.1.1 Heat transfer/热传递 1740 y5 P! r' o$ E
18.1.2 Moisture transfer/湿传递 1757 G8 x) C9 Z# j2 P+ a: D8 O7 K
18.1.3 Water resistance/抗水性 175# m t7 c6 r% D3 w* `3 g
18.1.4 Air transfer/透气性 176
2 |; g. ?* c6 S* n- i1 J$ O 18.1.5 Porosity and cover factor/多孔性和覆盖系数 176 [# |! J2 v: D$ u
18.1.6 Electrostatic propensity/静电 177
; E W& ~2 x5 B; x( X) o' R 18.2 Evaluations of textile properties related to comfort/与舒适性相关的纺织品性能评价 1776 `4 r/ W' a: a8 M1 w+ I
18.2.1 Heat transfer/热传递 178
. l. L- z) W. ]; w) e9 V7 ~& ]+ { 18.2.2 Moisture properties/湿传递性能 179
`3 `% m# l/ E9 P- E' ^) n 18.2.3 Air permeability/透气性 179& D5 x; a4 y- z, N; X
18.2.4 Porosity/孔隙率 180
6 t4 [ ]8 j" ?. u; ` 18.2.5 Electrostatic tests/静电测试 180- e) N) R2 t4 `* T- K! Z* D
Questions/思考题 180
2 C3 v: c4 m; e9 {& L! i5 ?Appendix/附录 1817 k9 q+ [$ ~" ?" w: a2 @: L% ]
AATCC:AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS/美国纺织化学家与染色家协会 181
# a* p# z" X, e+ `2 O ASTM:AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR TESTING AND MATERIALS/美国材料试验学会 184
. H B' d: d. g4 fVocabulary/词汇表 189) R" o5 |9 N5 z7 {: I; y2 A
References/参考文献 197
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