
纺织材料学(双语教材),刘妍,熊磊,PDF。普通高等教育“十一五”国家级规划教材(本科),纺织工程专业双语教材,电子目录,14M。/ a5 Z5 r' _8 n! P! ^
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内容提要
% O! R7 V2 a6 W! Y本书讨论了纤维、纱线与织物(包括机织物、针织物及非织造布)的结构、机械性能、物理性能及使用性能。涉及的纤维势括天然纤维(如棉、毛、麻、丝等)、传统化学纤维及新型化学纤维。本书同时介绍了纤维、纱线和织物的各种标准测试方法(包括国际上常用的ASTM, AATCC及GB等方法),并讨论了与各种测试方法有关的测试原理及对测试结果的影响因素。
8 U/ G- c+ e' u+ B) P本书可供高等纺织院校纺织、服装相关专业的本科生及研究生作为《纺织材料学》的双语教材或专业英语教材,也可供其他专业师生、纺织贸易专业人员和科研及生产单位的技术人员参考。1 G' O0 R7 o9 }4 ^8 y- W7 d
目录1 Y6 \+ ~4 a% z! u4 f; Z1 a
Part Ⅰ An Introduction to Textiles/纺织入门 18
$ d' i2 m* I2 |1 ^; ^5 B, m) ? Chapter 1 Introduction/介绍 18& R4 g0 D+ l5 s. I( Z
1.1 ASTM Standard Terminology Relating to Textiles/ASTM纺织标准术语 18% v) _5 E5 j6 g6 C
1.2 Fiber history/纤维历史 26
9 Z2 {' h& S. ]5 N: x6 z 1.2.1 Natural fibers/天然纤维 268 H6 Q' P0 B3 u" n5 [
1.2.2 Man-made fibers/化学纤维 27( l# @6 A4 t1 x& A3 u2 A0 M5 e
Questions/思考题 30; M1 o) |! f' t
Part Ⅱ Textile Fibers/纺织纤维 32
% U7 q6 b& `3 @1 q" u" [6 }6 ^% W, v Chapter 2 Natural Cellulosic Fibers/天然纤维素纤维 32& B# t2 x$ ^+ T
2.1 Cotton/棉 334 s6 z& W9 x8 @- u
2.1.1 Nature of cotton/棉花的种类 33
7 N) n) A, R& A, N% D 2.1.2 Classification/分类 34
, Q1 b! O5 }* u3 v$ K$ w* \' y 2.1.3 Growth and structure of cotton/棉纤维的生长与结构 34
) }) D" J3 S* u" S 2.1.4 Maturity/成熟度 36
3 m5 H- d) t3 R) o/ U b! X 2.1.5 Cotton properties/棉纤维的性能 38
( h: V4 c0 V% H$ _ 2.1.6 Cotton classification/棉花分级 39
8 O# T( b9 F# C; ` 2.2 Bast fibers/韧皮纤维 40
6 z1 u3 F, t+ L! g/ O0 D* `" ` 2.2.1 Flax (linen)/亚麻,亚麻织物 41
& r$ m1 t1 K) Y- L 2.2.2 Ramie/苎麻 436 g1 X8 D l6 V- L# u7 q. \
2.2.3 Hemp/汉麻 447 C O5 b+ i$ {2 l
2.2.4 Jute/黄麻 44! V! X. c$ m: s9 _" A4 ^% _
Questions/思考题 45
- w* S, U f7 Z) M1 c; N Chapter 3 Natural Protein Fibers/天然蛋白质纤维 46
$ w, L* c; k" [8 ^- S; a 3.1 Wool/绵羊毛 46# F* e. ?8 j( ]" v/ R8 L+ W( I
3.1.1 Wool production and history/羊毛生产和历史 460 g# i% o1 U) x6 j1 V: s
3.1.2 Wool grading/羊毛分级 47
K% L4 Q2 R6 [9 I, {, E 3.1.3 Wool structure/羊毛结构 474 [- x- W! }& x
3.1.4 Wool properties/羊毛性能 485 Q2 u# f `1 R$ O5 g4 b# f
3.2 Specialty animal fibers/特种动物毛 51
8 N# Q: u$ z! r/ n: r" y# S 3.3 Silk/丝 528 C) W2 l( Z2 N5 n E
Questions/思考题 543 @" Q% q" Q$ V
Chapter 4 Man-made Fibers/化学纤维 55% M# J( x& k6 [
4.1 Manufacturing processing of fiber/纤维生产工艺 55
( C, m8 H8 J# s* q 4.1.1 Wet spinning/湿法纺丝 56
1 j2 B0 q4 _/ W 4.1.2 Dry spinning/干法纺丝 56
$ [0 m4 j( L, V7 ~) G; Q8 [7 C 4.1.3 Melt spinning/熔体法纺丝 56
% N/ H3 `& W& B! s7 ]( S3 L/ O 4.1.4 Gel spinning/凝胶纺丝 57
- {7 n7 O' }2 m9 {: ^: g 4.2 Regenerated fibers/再生纤维 57. {6 i4 E9 ^+ Y+ a. q3 i4 y
4.2.1 Acetate/醋酯纤维 57
$ o2 Q/ Q1 L& E( [3 \ 4.2.2 Triacetate/三醋酯纤维 59$ ~* B1 Y* ?$ l+ w- M* u* ^! k
4.2.3 Viscose fibers/粘胶纤维 593 X% q" Z0 @; Q Y& I, L; e
4.3 Synthetic fibers/合成纤维 60
6 H7 Q- \9 F& g' Z9 z 4.3.1 Acrylic/腈纶 60
2 a0 Q, K V6 e! r- E3 X6 r( O: _ 4.3.2 Modacrylic/改性腈纶 61; Y; t5 s' A& R; r
4.3.3 Nylon/锦纶 616 r. D" u) y+ X' R6 I# a0 m
4.3.4 Polyester/涤纶 62
4 ]+ Y% T i: ]( \% h& {- i2 y/ y( g 4.3.5 PBI/聚苯并咪唑纤维 63+ r- |8 L" j5 e& g; e
4.3.6 Vinal/聚乙烯醇纤维 63
a% r% m4 S7 @7 P: @ 4.3.7 Olefin/聚烯烃纤维 63; [$ g6 ~5 r2 \" h- ~' B
4.3.8 Aramid/芳纶 64
# t: c1 o9 ^, s% a 4.3.9 Lycra/莱卡 64
# Z$ Y4 G. f- a4 C" f: C) a4 X 4.4 Other man-made fibers/其他化学纤维 66
3 }) }5 D3 r- F* q" g) z6 m 4.4.1 Glass/玻璃纤维 663 O- d& Y: K2 Z) S, V
4.4.2 Metallic/金属纤维 67 W: T" x" C, K8 B' ~
Questions/思考题 678 y1 h* J1 z/ l: H
Chapter 5 New Fibers/新型纤维 68
7 D2 L2 n1 J$ N 5.1 Carbon fibers/碳纤维 68
' F6 b' @2 f8 r+ @ 5.2 Fluorocarbon/氟碳纤维 68. f6 p5 C6 ~8 q# d1 d
5.3 Lyocell fibers(Tencel)/莱塞尔纤维 686 p9 f, h' f; ]9 t6 p. ]( v
5.4 High-wet-modulus fibers/高湿模量纤维 692 N7 \/ F8 x1 @ [4 ` I! ]/ h0 A
5.4.1 Modal fibers/莫代尔纤维 69, {5 K' H4 e5 S$ G
5.4.2 Richcel/丽赛纤维 70
/ Q& k5 k; y# U8 X7 L 5.5 Soybean protein composite fibers/大豆蛋白复合纤维 70
, d- P z1 y3 K 5.6 PLA fiber/聚左旋乳酸纤维 71: G3 E1 C. |3 I; K
5.7 Heterogenous fibers/复合纤维 71
2 A4 }# a1 V) w0 J7 p$ O8 e 5.7.1 Bicomponent or multicomponent/双组分或多组分 72& ~' ]' W* I# g! s4 {( u
5.7.2 Biconstituent or multiconstituent/双成分或多成分 73
+ h% p9 C8 ~, J4 A+ d& c9 h 5.7.3 Matrix or matrix-fibril/基质型纤维 73
( d, _) Z' x ?3 {$ @; W/ y- x, t; f" t 5.8 Differential fibers/差别化纤维 741 u6 \& ]( M: |
5.9 Functional fibers/功能性纤维 74" P' l- |5 [' @& b6 y4 |
5.10 High performance fibers/高性能纤维 74 W, h, E7 W. H0 I" {
Questions/思考题 74& v2 B3 r+ {. X9 |9 C6 `& y
Chapter 6 The Property of Absorbing Moisture/吸湿性 75
2 t' R4 y4 [4 {# ?4 R1 R5 X1 I 6.1 Orientation and crystallization/取向与结晶 75
. J; h$ v0 r, Q' G H 6.2 Moisture sorption/吸湿性 755 ~2 N" p* C+ ?1 L T8 I6 e9 `
6.2.1 Regain and moisture content/回潮率与含水率 75
4 E2 [! _! k- A m' Y 6.2.2 Relation between regain and relative humidity/回潮率与相对湿度的关系 75
. V* Y m3 Q L3 O4 W% I 6.2.3 Comparison of various materials/不同材料吸湿性的对比 76% k" x2 m; g7 Z- p3 y, P0 I! K
6.2.4 Theories of moisture sorption/吸湿理论 78, H0 }0 u& w' V0 ]
Questions/思考题 80
6 C) A. I( U3 Z$ D9 f( c Chapter 7 Other Physical Properties of Textile Fibers/纤维的其他物理性能 81
) `: q; Q% g+ R L$ N 7.1 Electronic properties/电学性能 81
/ K! V; S$ E% k 7.1.1 Definitions/定义 81( o. ?1 y' K" h% I+ ]( m7 M
7.2 Optical properties/光学性能 82
+ L1 n( i: f0 {; N, Y: ]; p 7.3 Thermal properties/热学性能 83
" G0 I$ @ x5 u, N; L7 u2 Q3 x! n 7.3.1 Thermal parameters/热力学参数 83
7 F" k# y* H8 k8 L$ l; M 7.3.2 A comparison of temperature effects/温度效应比较 83; J/ j$ d- a* v: c0 ]# n
Questions/思考题 83$ _8 y$ C" `4 W- e8 [1 n. G
Part Ⅲ Textile Yarns/纺织纱线 84
* R9 w9 E) n; h Chapter 8 Yarn Processing and Construction/纱线制造与结构 84. d$ F4 x: {" ?/ U! K
8.1 Spun yarns/短纤纱 85
0 X6 u3 ]1 O& v- x' o. [5 }. k 8.2 Filament yarns/长丝纱 85
3 O0 X& X/ y8 u) K. n 8.3 Methods of yarn processing/纺纱方法 85. Z) k6 W+ p( f/ S0 ~% A
8.3.1 Ring-spinning/环锭纺 86
) x5 ?! {: z Q6 Q7 {+ b1 ^ 8.3.2 New methods of yarn processing/新型纺纱方法 866 i3 w9 \; ?' f" `1 ]5 E! p6 d
8.4 Single and ply yarns/单纱和股线 89
/ q" D( O) D1 r }: ~ 8.5 Special types of yarn/特种纱线 90. q) i9 } y! v+ Q& o- b
8.5.1 Fancy yarns/花式纱 90: r: Q' h8 Q3 w) {. F0 s
8.5.2 Stretch yarns/弹力纱 91! ~" l* k- R0 D4 _
8.5.3 Textured yarns 变形纱线 912 N: s% _) `9 f0 ^1 U* X
8.6 Blends and mixtures yarns/纱线混纺与混用 92
, ?- s. y4 t) i8 u0 _ Questions/思考题 93
- F+ F" z5 |7 @: |; C Chapter 9 Yarn Properties/纱线性能 94
9 E; b9 ~" V* M# @0 a ^; ^ 9.1 Yarn number/纱线细度 94
5 L) B! X7 G5 K& e- F9 X# h 9.1.1 Denier system/旦数 94
! O/ I5 F* Y a/ @+ b; o 9.1.2 Yarn count system/纱线英制支数 94
5 n: C! C3 j5 H+ ^- i 9.1.3 Tex system/线密度 95
& u' o3 O4 ? E% [ 9.1.4 Metric numbering system/公制支数 95
7 d3 l4 X( {1 S5 P 9.1.5 Conversion in different systems/不同系统之间的换算 95
3 a# J* b1 L, |) Y% k5 |% u# ?$ y 9.2 Ply yarn counts and singles equivalent/股线支数与单纱支数 95
' l/ g& `. h# D4 l1 K0 u4 r4 x 9.3 Yarn twist/纱线捻度 96
M& E4 x( I3 D* h4 ~ 9.4 Yarn hairiness/纱线毛羽 97
9 a8 |3 C1 r z0 j4 N 9.4.1 Hairiness test method/毛羽测试方法 98" V+ u% t9 d0 _/ G. Q, I
9.4.2 Factors affecting hairiness/影响毛羽的因素 98
* d+ I- c4 H# ^* R; X 9.5 Yarn unevenness/纱线不匀 997 B7 `! {! D, v$ F4 ]7 O
9.5.1 Test of yarn unevenness/纱线不匀的测试 99( C4 L, {* p8 A# `
9.5.2 Reasons for yarn unevenness/纱线不匀的原因 100
1 B; E5 K* o9 E, k$ [ 9.6 Classification of yarn quality/纱线质量分析 100
g* Z$ v; b" E Questions/思考题 100
6 Y$ n* E! n$ H! {Part Ⅳ Textile Fabrics/织物 102' n- Z ?( ]4 Q0 _
Chapter 10 Woven Fabrics/机织物 102
$ U% n& W: I( \7 N9 j9 y9 B 10.1 Making woven fabrics/织制机织物 102
. b* X) }5 [6 U1 P, I 10.1.1 The loom/织机 102
' J' s- t3 e% i& g+ b 10.1.2 Loom type/织机类型 104
! p+ i$ K* m& c- B 10.1.3 Loom motions/织机运动 104
* ]0 r( D4 h* p1 v v$ Q8 Y. z 10.1.4 Electronics in weaving/电子技术在织机中的应用 105
! y* C3 Y$ }0 k& c6 [% W 10.1.5 The selvage/布边 105: {2 B, W+ H+ @4 d- I
10.2 Warp yarns and filling yarns/经纱和纬纱 105
2 T: p# Y/ e2 q/ m 10.2.1 Identification/鉴别 106, A- Z7 I" \" t; e" m1 R" a
10.3 Face and back/正面与反面 106
: h1 m- h& ~% | 10.3.1 Reasons for differenee/存在差异的原因 107$ U/ h# Q7 u$ u1 ?
10.3.2 Caution/应用的要点 107
% a5 E5 A' O. e% Z' F: U1 ?4 ? 10.4 Top and bottom/顶端和底端 107, {: b4 U7 K& |5 Z) t. X* u& e
10.4.1 Reasons for difference/存在差异的原因 107( T9 ^' t6 P8 T' w8 a: J+ R6 d( O/ b
10.5 Weave floats/组织浮线 1082 `, f4 f# z ^$ \) e6 V
10.6 Basic weaves/基本组织 108
5 Y1 ?6 V' U0 r! I* R 10.6.1 Plain weave/平纹组织 108: c; i9 q! b, H; H* |- F
10.6.2 Twill weave/斜纹组织 109
1 L% r. I* T" G# u8 E4 k+ L 10.6.3 Satin weave/缎纹组织 111 ~6 z3 T. D0 T7 d
10.7 Fabric performance and characteristics/织物性能和参数 112
" X- ?; D/ P2 a2 p; }8 @- l* n4 d- w1 j 10.7.1 Fabric width/幅宽 112
3 A3 V3 |; L& |3 v. w 10.7.2 Fabric weight/织物重量 112
+ z4 [' M0 V% |( l& n# `1 r& y 10.7.3 Fabric thickness/织物厚度 113% i8 J; B& u! X' k# N, L' x
10.7.4 Fabric density/织物密度 113
4 I j8 ?3 S5 G4 [3 \. b7 x4 u 10.7.5 Fabric count/织物经纬密度 113
- `( F- ^ G: S. v" ^9 V; E D 10.7.6 Fabric defects/织物疵点 113
1 ]+ ~# U1 H/ n- k- P- w3 P4 e) _ z Questions/思考题 113
' H( }5 f8 O( V) o( v9 a: x3 e Chapter 11 Knitted Fabrics/针织物 114' D; T. Y4 P8 l! _ M3 T/ s
11.1 Making of knitted fabric/针织物形成 1141 N( I! |/ F% G- L9 F+ V' F
11.1.1 The forming of knitted stitches/线圈的形成 114
9 k; P5 O y! D& W" ?2 B* @- _ 11.1.2 Types of knitted stitches/线圈的种类 116' c l4 }* w5 g
11.2 Weft knits/纬编针织物 117$ ~4 m; ~4 i3 U' t2 Y
11.2.1 Jersey knit fabric/纬平针织物 117
( K6 J) h, w5 j 11.2.2 Rib knit fabric/罗纹针织物 118* O" V# k- e. ^5 Q
11.2.3 Purl knit fabric/双反面针织物 119
4 k3 I: ~" `3 O9 P6 {' Q+ Q" i$ o 11.2.4 Double knits/双面针织物 120, y8 w- ~8 N; p; Z2 w9 \$ G/ |
11.2.5 Full-fashioned knits/全成形针织物 120
7 j/ }* r; P: `8 E3 [, F1 a 11.3 Warp knits/经编针织物 1218 _- ~* ^- S: P" _, y5 |
11.3.1 Tricot fabrics/特里科经编针织物 121, B. h; X7 [3 x; Q( _' F
11.3.2 Raschel fabrics/拉舍尔经编针织物 122
! R: J0 o% q) i# s$ X; l! Z 11.4 Performance and characteristics/性能和参数 122! f! Q: Q' Q9 z" L6 b% B
Questions/思考题 123
" @1 D& L' I- u4 q Chapter 12 Nonwoven Fabrics/非织造布 124
& K/ w3 d- X( {1 |; d' U 12.1 Introduction/导论 1241 l, \7 q. T' V# ^, a7 Y2 }8 Z7 [
12.2 Manufacturing methods/生产方法 125, W2 E; u& e1 [4 b7 F+ C
12.2.1 Dry laid system/干法成网 125
( G5 q% I* P' t 12.2.2 Wet laid system/湿法成网 125
/ |+ @9 n8 x4 k( t! ^3 Z 12.2.3 Polymer laid system/聚合物挤压法 1250 I+ G$ j3 A( g4 `, x+ O' e
12.3 Various nonwovens/各种非织造布 125
/ A7 S' h8 A& f/ r, m+ e3 ?. C 12.3.1 Needle punched nonwovens/针刺法非织造布 1250 U8 M1 s. R: W; P; x5 G
12.3.2 Bonded web nonwovens/黏合法非织造布 126
* k- {+ z, K4 e1 {/ }4 p- U 12.3.3 Spunlaced nonwovens/射流喷网法非织造布 127 C1 G& j5 B- l6 v
12.3.4 Spunbonded nonwovens/纺粘法非织造布 128* ]3 V" U* N, t9 `2 A. j
12.3.5 Melt-blown nonwovens/熔喷法非织造布 129
( B- u" X4 K( o0 U) k Questions/思考题 129
. e I2 w; t, l4 |7 S3 K4 gPart Ⅴ Textile Testing/纺织品测试 130
$ h. q# m8 @* y: {- @4 o Chapter 13 General Test Methods/常规测试方法 1306 V |. f: \/ p2 Y8 Q C- M7 a: g
13.1 General fiber tests/纤维常规测试 1307 I2 [4 s* u+ X" [ L
13.1.1 Fiber identification/纤维鉴别 130
+ u! c- ]6 ~) x 13.1.2 Fiber length/纤维长度 134
; m: ~8 s+ @- v 13.1.3 Fiber fineness or linear density/纤维细度或线密度 135
3 J! M% h3 ?4 ^3 I( Z 13.1.4 Cross-sectional shape/截面形状 135, K1 t8 B. z" E6 |" l. r
13.1.5 Crimp/卷曲 135
% g- r6 y# P! B. [, f7 Y8 D7 g% L 13.1.6 Regain/回潮率 136
' c+ e) q0 o4 L: o( P+ ~ 13.1.7 Mechanical properties/机械性能 136: a9 O% R k4 m- D. G
13.1.8 Chemical characteristics/化学性能 136
3 P& S) ~8 u+ i( X 13.1.9 Surface characteristics/表面性能 136
/ X) |! W, X9 t$ C2 T* \' J% o 13.1.10 Density and specific gravity/密度和相对密度 137) {# I5 B. Z6 ^- w, Q
13.2 Special tests for natural fibers/天然纤维的测试 137& h0 K3 x& B% e- C" ^
13.2.1 Tests for cotton/棉纤维测试 137
3 Z$ S% W0 Y' @9 Z 13.2.2 Tests for wool/毛纤维测试 139
' H. r# k8 K1 d 13.3 Testing of tensile properties/拉伸性能测试 1402 g& |$ n8 B9 q
13.3.1 Description of tensile proprieties/拉伸性能的描述 141
' v! @4 _8 \( c: P 13.3.2 Fiber and yarn tensile testing/纤维和纱线拉伸性能的测试 146+ F9 w/ h' }5 p
13.3.3 Fabric tensile testing/织物拉伸性能测试方法 147; @* M( J8 w' T, e; I6 n
Questions/思考题 149$ W! ]6 l2 C) N% ^
Chapter 14 Fabric Abrasion and Pilling/织物磨损与起球 150
$ \5 ~- J" ]8 P5 L! b9 | 14.1 Types of abrasion/磨损的类型 150! J% l' W; x f, q
14.1.1 Abrasion between fabrics/织物间的磨损 150
! r( r" q; M# @1 g2 Z! t% T/ Y& `$ u 14.1.2 Abrasion between fabric and a nontextile surface/织物与非纤维制品表面磨损 150
$ c& W% T; c H, ?2 D 14.1.3 Abrasion within fabric/织物内部磨损 151
- P# V0 Y4 a6 ]! d7 N. j 14.1.4 Abrasion by foreign materials within the fabric/与织物内部其他材料的磨损 151
3 {4 E0 |7 O a1 |0 u5 _8 |+ t# A 14.2 Factors affecting fabric abrasion resistance/影响耐磨性能的因素 1519 y* k4 I' H$ x; V9 p* v8 U, V' b
14.2.1 Fabric properties/织物性能 151
1 R$ w2 T! P: o( z 14.2.2 Other factors/其他因素 153& f4 C% R0 }5 h5 U, C) }. x4 x
14.3 Abrasion testing/磨损测试 154
! W; p' E' K9 f( V 14.3.1 Visual comparison with an unabraded specimen/与未磨损样品视觉对比 154$ y4 F* ^; @0 m* ^/ W/ d
14.3.2 Number of cycles to produce a hole/产生磨损破洞需要的摩擦圈数 154
. D0 I4 I6 T; q" d5 H1 p 14.3.3 Change in a physical property/物理性能的变化 1542 K( [! k0 ]6 C+ f$ N/ C
14.3.4 Microscopic examination/显微镜观测 1550 }* g% O. e, y
14.4 Aesthetics of abrasion and wear/穿着和磨损对美感的影响 155* c4 r' U5 N+ e* J' m4 [; W
14.4.1 Color changes caused by abrasion/磨损引起的颜色变化 155
. w( C9 w, h- Z$ }' a 14.4.2 Pilling/起球 156) J" A' \0 _3 K& _
Questions/思考题 157
a3 G8 l" A) P+ G# j @ z Chapter 15 Fabric Hand and Drape/织物手感与悬垂 158$ H4 N: k( M- r6 t+ S# u1 T/ ]
15.1 Fabric hand/织物手感 158: n: {6 t9 u4 v2 U$ ?2 J
15.2 Fabric drape/织物悬垂 159 t; g' @+ ^9 u! g
15.3 Measurement of hand and drape/手感与悬垂的评价 161
* F& G8 G0 v4 H1 @5 T" z 15.3.1 Subjective evaluation/主观评定法 161
; @2 ~* }1 a. o 15.3.2 Quantitative measurement/定量评定法 162
5 W( l. ~- s8 t$ z$ ^+ Y 15.3.3 Kawabata evaluation system/KES评定法 163
0 z9 ~" d- v" m8 j0 p: R0 A Questions/思考题 1635 O1 W* }. r% q4 u. C6 x& v' U
Chapter 16 Fabric Colorfastness/织物染色牢度 164( A& k8 l, A( z! ?$ g1 d! o3 z p" p
16.1 Evaluation of color and colorfastness/颜色和染色牢度评定方法 164
3 h! J) {1 s+ b7 t 16.2 Colorfastness tests/染色牢度测试 164
. o) x" |$ |: i$ c F 16.2.1 Colorfastness to crocking/耐摩擦色牢度 164
6 j9 h; S+ B, Y, W9 V- I 16.2.2 Colorfastness to laundering and bleaching/耐洗涤和耐漂白色牢 165
) f G5 G3 ?! S; Q* i+ V 16.2.3 Colorfastness to drycleaning/耐干洗色牢度 166& c7 d1 m% B% U- o9 t, M
16.2.4 Colorfastness to perspiration/耐汗渍色牢度 166/ I# Y8 k" W2 G# \& d2 o4 a6 ~! k
16.2.5 Colorfastness to water/耐水浸色牢度 166( l3 N5 L- [9 u3 C% y
16.2.6 Colorfastness to light/耐光照色牢度 167: S4 i: |6 h6 C
16.2.7 Colorfastness to atmospheric contaminants/耐空气污染色牢度 168
% C; a5 U" c$ f3 O/ @ Questions/思考题 168
5 C1 r- v; \# U8 W Chapter 17 Fabric Flammability/织物可燃性 169
/ Q7 d( P9 z H) e 17.1 Flammability standards/可燃性标准 169
& R9 O2 e2 U( B `. c 17.2 Properties affecting flammability/影响可燃性的因素 169
! t$ ~$ ]" Y1 c! B" ]# M 17.3 Flammability testing/可燃性测试 171
+ Q6 X, t' G. U9 H6 h1 F 17.3.1 Forty-five degree angle test/45°燃烧测试法 171/ }. {6 }' i5 i' F4 p+ \
17.3.2 Vertical flame tests/垂直燃烧测试法 172
1 H8 m: [! a$ ^5 l# p. {3 O2 }. {' Q 17.3.3 Carpet testing/地毯测试 172. ] n E, e: T$ |/ s6 E$ C( H
17.3.4 Cigarette tests/卷烟点燃测试 172' L* ]" V& h# J" U0 y
17.3.5 Other standard flammability tests/其他可燃性测试 173$ r7 @: u; D. ^3 S5 u
Questions/思考题 173
) v$ I1 n' Y. l* k5 l6 v) y Chapter 18 Comfort of Textiles/纺织品舒适性 174
1 a; P. I8 Z) K4 _ 18.1 Physical phenomena affecting thermal comfort/影响热舒适性能的物理现象 174+ v% |5 O- U) n: \6 D# @
18.1.1 Heat transfer/热传递 174% {) S2 |$ c/ S) `0 u8 {* \* l
18.1.2 Moisture transfer/湿传递 175
/ a# G" j' v, |( { 18.1.3 Water resistance/抗水性 175$ }6 a6 t0 s5 w" d' p( W
18.1.4 Air transfer/透气性 176 b H9 B0 o8 C6 d2 b' Z
18.1.5 Porosity and cover factor/多孔性和覆盖系数 176) o4 @2 B ^" C
18.1.6 Electrostatic propensity/静电 177
3 V) O4 O) |: o+ t; ^( L 18.2 Evaluations of textile properties related to comfort/与舒适性相关的纺织品性能评价 177
; Z1 ^, S2 O% X, m) k$ v6 g 18.2.1 Heat transfer/热传递 178
( ~6 {6 h: M: v( e, L7 ^ 18.2.2 Moisture properties/湿传递性能 179+ u% T( J: V. R0 j& ]4 A- H
18.2.3 Air permeability/透气性 179( N5 x$ e6 m: @( O1 k- j2 F
18.2.4 Porosity/孔隙率 180' H L4 J8 {- n# ^( K
18.2.5 Electrostatic tests/静电测试 180, p. L, e3 g5 h! l2 z# X1 U- r9 j
Questions/思考题 180
5 j! R' e+ S( X5 R, |0 U) r$ kAppendix/附录 181
: `+ j0 D b1 `' J, T AATCC:AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS/美国纺织化学家与染色家协会 181
+ Z2 |: ]0 S& q( l; b/ t ASTM:AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR TESTING AND MATERIALS/美国材料试验学会 184
. R& C- _, ?* V$ N4 NVocabulary/词汇表 189
( X2 q7 A; }) j: f5 B; @7 {: `: UReferences/参考文献 197
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