
纺织材料学(双语教材),刘妍,熊磊,PDF。普通高等教育“十一五”国家级规划教材(本科),纺织工程专业双语教材,电子目录,14M。0 _1 H, K) h7 O% b2 C# N% q* A
) N! a% l- m, h* w/ q内容提要( |! l& d* y( _
本书讨论了纤维、纱线与织物(包括机织物、针织物及非织造布)的结构、机械性能、物理性能及使用性能。涉及的纤维势括天然纤维(如棉、毛、麻、丝等)、传统化学纤维及新型化学纤维。本书同时介绍了纤维、纱线和织物的各种标准测试方法(包括国际上常用的ASTM, AATCC及GB等方法),并讨论了与各种测试方法有关的测试原理及对测试结果的影响因素。8 \+ w3 X5 W# X2 R
本书可供高等纺织院校纺织、服装相关专业的本科生及研究生作为《纺织材料学》的双语教材或专业英语教材,也可供其他专业师生、纺织贸易专业人员和科研及生产单位的技术人员参考。" w( h6 _+ f7 v' g" t% {1 B
目录8 u0 U6 z g1 H# `
Part Ⅰ An Introduction to Textiles/纺织入门 18
8 u3 F/ o2 ~3 b Chapter 1 Introduction/介绍 18
5 ]5 {: J0 n0 ?- g! B+ J+ a' p0 w 1.1 ASTM Standard Terminology Relating to Textiles/ASTM纺织标准术语 188 z" y0 D0 y. k$ o5 e8 v! O3 l& r
1.2 Fiber history/纤维历史 26
' d* f% M! G1 D0 l, c" f 1.2.1 Natural fibers/天然纤维 262 J% j( L% o; P, ^, p8 Y6 `
1.2.2 Man-made fibers/化学纤维 27
: v' T( T0 O5 x$ i0 N: A Questions/思考题 30) f" F8 r" c& d
Part Ⅱ Textile Fibers/纺织纤维 32
- Q: \) }# Q2 P Chapter 2 Natural Cellulosic Fibers/天然纤维素纤维 32
( ?/ b7 D# H* Y5 o 2.1 Cotton/棉 33" W/ @1 u+ V. F, B" G
2.1.1 Nature of cotton/棉花的种类 335 E, E- S$ ~$ r6 |; s
2.1.2 Classification/分类 340 v" N( E; X% [" i& I; _2 L$ V
2.1.3 Growth and structure of cotton/棉纤维的生长与结构 34/ o! J$ z, R- t0 Y8 x& S
2.1.4 Maturity/成熟度 36
H( b- A$ Q' P 2.1.5 Cotton properties/棉纤维的性能 38
8 \0 C% ^. h- w) k4 a 2.1.6 Cotton classification/棉花分级 39% o8 a7 j5 i- \0 Q1 V
2.2 Bast fibers/韧皮纤维 40
" k4 b3 s. r0 e# @. w8 h 2.2.1 Flax (linen)/亚麻,亚麻织物 415 V2 v9 Q8 n$ {
2.2.2 Ramie/苎麻 431 p7 l, ^' q/ h$ w( l) C% n! ]/ V9 u' j
2.2.3 Hemp/汉麻 440 h5 x$ c- q6 Y O* c
2.2.4 Jute/黄麻 44
0 H2 H# ~2 @5 H2 v/ W0 y1 F Questions/思考题 456 _, u# E/ k" m& X' H
Chapter 3 Natural Protein Fibers/天然蛋白质纤维 46
5 r7 c; }- P4 y! U$ e$ U 3.1 Wool/绵羊毛 46( f5 |3 w. O L/ a9 ?5 L m
3.1.1 Wool production and history/羊毛生产和历史 468 B6 g# E) K, @8 P* z/ f
3.1.2 Wool grading/羊毛分级 47
& p# u( N6 K4 g' p u! j# M7 S 3.1.3 Wool structure/羊毛结构 476 q( ~) f/ D# ~3 U s' f: K- ]
3.1.4 Wool properties/羊毛性能 481 z T% L5 {$ f5 s% G& k
3.2 Specialty animal fibers/特种动物毛 51
+ Z" T1 R, z6 R 3.3 Silk/丝 52
9 q) J6 D+ g: V+ l Questions/思考题 54- R. K9 H7 N T5 n5 n* A
Chapter 4 Man-made Fibers/化学纤维 55, w1 ]+ \5 k+ x O5 ?) q$ L* w
4.1 Manufacturing processing of fiber/纤维生产工艺 55
x. x/ p3 @: w0 @1 P8 N 4.1.1 Wet spinning/湿法纺丝 56! t& J% e- X! I2 I# h+ k
4.1.2 Dry spinning/干法纺丝 56
- P$ p g! @: C6 V2 W: B+ F1 T 4.1.3 Melt spinning/熔体法纺丝 56
7 b z! J, ]- y3 Y: y8 S' U 4.1.4 Gel spinning/凝胶纺丝 57
E. o4 Q( C3 [6 ?9 _( Y$ F" g l2 z 4.2 Regenerated fibers/再生纤维 57
% R N2 W$ V0 M# q% J d( L 4.2.1 Acetate/醋酯纤维 57
8 a* d- o, n: ` ~! X$ c 4.2.2 Triacetate/三醋酯纤维 59
; B2 R/ B' s& d; C( x 4.2.3 Viscose fibers/粘胶纤维 59
0 R5 N- Q/ N0 z* B9 n 4.3 Synthetic fibers/合成纤维 60- p$ a2 |# ]3 w. k5 [% v3 v
4.3.1 Acrylic/腈纶 607 b% E. S4 M. z) |
4.3.2 Modacrylic/改性腈纶 61
, E* G t- X! F k$ [; c B 4.3.3 Nylon/锦纶 611 r! G( @/ h( a
4.3.4 Polyester/涤纶 626 |/ X1 ^+ ]! m, \
4.3.5 PBI/聚苯并咪唑纤维 63, X, \7 N" R3 l+ \8 e/ C
4.3.6 Vinal/聚乙烯醇纤维 63
4 H3 T, E: D# D9 ?2 U" l 4.3.7 Olefin/聚烯烃纤维 63( b1 x: X9 G& l p/ ~, U2 I
4.3.8 Aramid/芳纶 64
- V7 M1 U9 d. a. v$ [7 b5 Q 4.3.9 Lycra/莱卡 64
4 T1 J# v' P2 ^+ V7 | 4.4 Other man-made fibers/其他化学纤维 66
1 z! Z/ n' p6 V 4.4.1 Glass/玻璃纤维 662 V2 |/ \# N% i1 C: ~
4.4.2 Metallic/金属纤维 67, H% [/ F% V( \/ R5 @9 q
Questions/思考题 67
1 k+ ]2 b7 P# T6 L) B Chapter 5 New Fibers/新型纤维 68
: o4 R# H j- s/ N, {( o0 S' q 5.1 Carbon fibers/碳纤维 68
% j" u% Z7 a7 O6 S. f* J5 } 5.2 Fluorocarbon/氟碳纤维 68
- C$ M3 H7 I, W) t 5.3 Lyocell fibers(Tencel)/莱塞尔纤维 68
/ D9 p0 P: M1 O# D o: l 5.4 High-wet-modulus fibers/高湿模量纤维 69
2 Q0 I5 Z) ^- J/ r h: u3 L 5.4.1 Modal fibers/莫代尔纤维 69
" M4 O/ K3 y) A5 ^7 E$ N5 a% s 5.4.2 Richcel/丽赛纤维 70/ F: Q" n' i/ E1 y$ A0 A7 t E8 P
5.5 Soybean protein composite fibers/大豆蛋白复合纤维 70
/ p5 r- t6 q6 b3 S4 ^# l1 u4 q 5.6 PLA fiber/聚左旋乳酸纤维 710 X4 l7 c2 H; C9 |% u* C7 o
5.7 Heterogenous fibers/复合纤维 71
1 b- Q' q% E- F( I) T5 I+ u m 5.7.1 Bicomponent or multicomponent/双组分或多组分 72 T3 w4 L5 F: G2 t
5.7.2 Biconstituent or multiconstituent/双成分或多成分 73' x/ B& p: J- |$ P" C1 d
5.7.3 Matrix or matrix-fibril/基质型纤维 73
; c/ B% U; {" c7 J: \; f/ z! l 5.8 Differential fibers/差别化纤维 74
+ j) ?$ s3 A2 u# ~9 \9 Z- E" ~ 5.9 Functional fibers/功能性纤维 74
( {6 J; C6 M& E+ D# E( X 5.10 High performance fibers/高性能纤维 74
5 S% `. O/ s; z" x Questions/思考题 74& Z+ q2 w9 I3 I$ h: }6 m
Chapter 6 The Property of Absorbing Moisture/吸湿性 75' k! K" x! E2 P
6.1 Orientation and crystallization/取向与结晶 75
% G, L7 q9 H' `! D 6.2 Moisture sorption/吸湿性 75
+ t5 [ x ]( x) \3 f* `; e! W8 M 6.2.1 Regain and moisture content/回潮率与含水率 75! w# l8 r* C( }8 l" M2 N, B
6.2.2 Relation between regain and relative humidity/回潮率与相对湿度的关系 75
( M* | J7 {, h+ h 6.2.3 Comparison of various materials/不同材料吸湿性的对比 76# W9 o6 j8 H" W6 R) l/ L
6.2.4 Theories of moisture sorption/吸湿理论 782 c1 Z8 f" U/ \0 v! h! ~2 o' k
Questions/思考题 80
$ M+ L2 P' Q1 Y5 g* ^7 o( s Chapter 7 Other Physical Properties of Textile Fibers/纤维的其他物理性能 81
7 X- h# t1 J$ ^! `% X$ j! [ 7.1 Electronic properties/电学性能 81+ e; y0 w, ~: _
7.1.1 Definitions/定义 81
9 D) m) i' ?9 ~ 7.2 Optical properties/光学性能 82
) n3 ]3 `3 R" d8 U; E' b 7.3 Thermal properties/热学性能 839 _) K* D0 Y# L3 @
7.3.1 Thermal parameters/热力学参数 83
, p8 O1 o1 Q4 l3 P- K& U- R 7.3.2 A comparison of temperature effects/温度效应比较 83
$ p5 I/ d1 ~! @; M& S; P Questions/思考题 83# x: B0 k% y, h. c: B/ i' M
Part Ⅲ Textile Yarns/纺织纱线 84& d6 M9 r% f' m1 X( u9 W
Chapter 8 Yarn Processing and Construction/纱线制造与结构 84/ c& j/ ]. _7 P+ Y: K! V
8.1 Spun yarns/短纤纱 85
/ j/ x5 ]8 ^+ O0 P3 a: o- b/ j 8.2 Filament yarns/长丝纱 85
- a; ^' G; w0 V7 D1 H: Y& [ 8.3 Methods of yarn processing/纺纱方法 85; n6 w, f- x2 a1 v
8.3.1 Ring-spinning/环锭纺 86
9 B; j2 F u6 P, v& R) t0 Q 8.3.2 New methods of yarn processing/新型纺纱方法 86
# G& V$ L& f+ T& E" w* p 8.4 Single and ply yarns/单纱和股线 895 }; A. N, b0 P6 c! c$ m1 M; I0 Z+ e
8.5 Special types of yarn/特种纱线 90* _7 R) b6 ?8 r. l$ i2 X' U
8.5.1 Fancy yarns/花式纱 90
, v9 m3 ~8 S' S7 s, d% o 8.5.2 Stretch yarns/弹力纱 91
7 g1 _( p+ w0 f% z2 K9 L G 8.5.3 Textured yarns 变形纱线 91
5 B$ f. u8 r- p/ G+ M; ^ 8.6 Blends and mixtures yarns/纱线混纺与混用 92
' Z9 m3 e$ ^9 `& n+ i Questions/思考题 93
$ _4 [ H/ N1 y0 w" T7 p) n7 i Chapter 9 Yarn Properties/纱线性能 94
+ X" l! V' z- [* t" X0 h9 i 9.1 Yarn number/纱线细度 942 G& O5 _. S1 v) S! G
9.1.1 Denier system/旦数 94) i! E4 h0 G: \8 D& _
9.1.2 Yarn count system/纱线英制支数 94, P1 p) t2 c+ F% Y4 t
9.1.3 Tex system/线密度 95
+ U( O& v: @1 K3 U2 h 9.1.4 Metric numbering system/公制支数 952 w! j& P! E) z( D
9.1.5 Conversion in different systems/不同系统之间的换算 95
; w: l% L; c% V/ Y! R 9.2 Ply yarn counts and singles equivalent/股线支数与单纱支数 95
5 N- S3 R( _6 F/ N 9.3 Yarn twist/纱线捻度 96
8 q5 T. V$ j, r6 p. r5 A0 x8 q: T 9.4 Yarn hairiness/纱线毛羽 97
8 Z' l& C7 Y ]$ F) [+ t 9.4.1 Hairiness test method/毛羽测试方法 98* m$ q; X) M% c7 l4 T
9.4.2 Factors affecting hairiness/影响毛羽的因素 98
8 g) e1 k1 n5 K) ? 9.5 Yarn unevenness/纱线不匀 990 n3 h( X, W1 e
9.5.1 Test of yarn unevenness/纱线不匀的测试 999 m4 p7 r. t. G
9.5.2 Reasons for yarn unevenness/纱线不匀的原因 100
7 h4 \5 Q: K# X* P0 S8 h 9.6 Classification of yarn quality/纱线质量分析 100; K: ^- T# h& L
Questions/思考题 100$ d3 w9 K9 h, k, |2 ~- y# C
Part Ⅳ Textile Fabrics/织物 102
/ K/ P/ k3 o, z Chapter 10 Woven Fabrics/机织物 102& Q1 m4 s$ m& n( ?
10.1 Making woven fabrics/织制机织物 102
7 o2 k2 E" t) U9 K6 r9 h1 m 10.1.1 The loom/织机 102
^6 _0 I7 I4 o- i+ O1 p; r 10.1.2 Loom type/织机类型 104( [' v$ T; R5 P7 G) M8 m* m
10.1.3 Loom motions/织机运动 104# Z5 V8 w" H( j2 x
10.1.4 Electronics in weaving/电子技术在织机中的应用 105
* \" w3 n8 M* V8 I$ H! p 10.1.5 The selvage/布边 1051 W' M! N; v. ^# {# c$ i( `9 ^0 \
10.2 Warp yarns and filling yarns/经纱和纬纱 105
) B$ }% D; y% Y w( ^ 10.2.1 Identification/鉴别 106
3 F1 M0 W% {# O2 p$ w0 P 10.3 Face and back/正面与反面 106* X& d) o# f F4 F, K; A: x R
10.3.1 Reasons for differenee/存在差异的原因 107
1 \) s' L- y1 {$ U& j 10.3.2 Caution/应用的要点 107" c# r8 `. O, U% o
10.4 Top and bottom/顶端和底端 107; x$ a* z2 n7 P* V* R
10.4.1 Reasons for difference/存在差异的原因 1075 b* e5 e6 z" r9 I' o9 r
10.5 Weave floats/组织浮线 1083 \ N' p# V4 B! z6 a1 ^
10.6 Basic weaves/基本组织 108
7 b- O" T# j/ _5 E! f2 v6 S* p* i8 O) _ 10.6.1 Plain weave/平纹组织 108- d# r+ B$ @& O# ?( P5 {2 I' A
10.6.2 Twill weave/斜纹组织 109
! s' c9 N+ F. v( d |. q6 K 10.6.3 Satin weave/缎纹组织 111 H# ~! j* F5 R9 v6 l
10.7 Fabric performance and characteristics/织物性能和参数 112
, T3 T8 i3 N3 m1 m 10.7.1 Fabric width/幅宽 1120 C5 [9 M8 I- |8 g0 Q7 o! G
10.7.2 Fabric weight/织物重量 112 {1 g4 E' B. E9 c. X
10.7.3 Fabric thickness/织物厚度 113
( [ c- P2 k" V 10.7.4 Fabric density/织物密度 113
/ N3 [) P ]% h- k/ B, P. | 10.7.5 Fabric count/织物经纬密度 113
" ]' _% ^. P. H3 S. s# [7 Y& h" p/ @ 10.7.6 Fabric defects/织物疵点 1135 s6 k! B2 y1 [
Questions/思考题 113
- V: p# z$ P( K" q6 X0 \8 H Chapter 11 Knitted Fabrics/针织物 114
. O! t1 B+ | x0 Y1 G( `$ v- T 11.1 Making of knitted fabric/针织物形成 114 z& z; M" g7 ~9 R
11.1.1 The forming of knitted stitches/线圈的形成 114
6 g4 z+ `" m4 r, J/ W# _& g+ { 11.1.2 Types of knitted stitches/线圈的种类 116) i+ T8 ]3 y4 Y' u* z# a
11.2 Weft knits/纬编针织物 117
) ], n5 _8 d7 @$ ~' } 11.2.1 Jersey knit fabric/纬平针织物 117
/ d' \3 r6 f+ I- |* W 11.2.2 Rib knit fabric/罗纹针织物 118
$ `: D4 b. s# d1 i s U, F 11.2.3 Purl knit fabric/双反面针织物 119
- I4 \7 b9 F& b. Q4 J! m% A" O 11.2.4 Double knits/双面针织物 1200 v9 @: e% H; f" d6 i4 e
11.2.5 Full-fashioned knits/全成形针织物 120 G" K1 f' s; `
11.3 Warp knits/经编针织物 121& D" ^# I, y( Z7 K- D: s
11.3.1 Tricot fabrics/特里科经编针织物 121, g1 l) y I; |. g: q+ r+ Z
11.3.2 Raschel fabrics/拉舍尔经编针织物 1220 j" R1 s! ^6 J- V
11.4 Performance and characteristics/性能和参数 122
. \! c* G* O1 f3 `9 h; f1 Q Questions/思考题 123/ s& a3 c! {) b0 y" x* y5 v' E
Chapter 12 Nonwoven Fabrics/非织造布 124
/ j6 m; c+ a! l5 e* y. X 12.1 Introduction/导论 124
* Q. X1 a2 w, z; k; F 12.2 Manufacturing methods/生产方法 125; z: ~1 H% S8 o8 H* R4 u' \9 N
12.2.1 Dry laid system/干法成网 1250 C5 X3 r' O0 R% X o) Y$ A+ Y
12.2.2 Wet laid system/湿法成网 125
" c, D/ l3 P$ e" X, P: C0 N 12.2.3 Polymer laid system/聚合物挤压法 125: i4 `8 e3 b8 N- I9 M
12.3 Various nonwovens/各种非织造布 125
K" u# L) I3 H4 U/ ~6 d5 t* C/ p 12.3.1 Needle punched nonwovens/针刺法非织造布 125
* _$ T; J% ^8 y* C* R9 \' | 12.3.2 Bonded web nonwovens/黏合法非织造布 126
' I7 Q$ }2 x% U: J 12.3.3 Spunlaced nonwovens/射流喷网法非织造布 127. c, M+ S! G$ m3 Q
12.3.4 Spunbonded nonwovens/纺粘法非织造布 1284 z p- a7 F$ h8 P8 U, N
12.3.5 Melt-blown nonwovens/熔喷法非织造布 129
* K6 O, u: x/ Z Questions/思考题 129
1 ?7 _7 H$ Q' m9 |* SPart Ⅴ Textile Testing/纺织品测试 130; v6 p" w) o# |' I
Chapter 13 General Test Methods/常规测试方法 130
' I7 Z( M( T d( P! t Y& T 13.1 General fiber tests/纤维常规测试 130# \) r' D, w) u3 @7 h; ]! Z
13.1.1 Fiber identification/纤维鉴别 130* E" {" S3 M; d, P# a
13.1.2 Fiber length/纤维长度 134
; J. ^6 F" ?% y" j/ }. e$ x: Z 13.1.3 Fiber fineness or linear density/纤维细度或线密度 135
: v6 i$ ^" t* D1 `7 s! y 13.1.4 Cross-sectional shape/截面形状 135* q! s7 N6 U) h# s9 c
13.1.5 Crimp/卷曲 135' y7 `* L& X. w5 O
13.1.6 Regain/回潮率 136+ z$ v. h; `9 i& {" q$ y
13.1.7 Mechanical properties/机械性能 1365 ~/ X4 m, B7 t9 E, {: }, `
13.1.8 Chemical characteristics/化学性能 1365 U, U* t/ Y9 d% ~% U
13.1.9 Surface characteristics/表面性能 136
' @: y! k8 l9 g& c 13.1.10 Density and specific gravity/密度和相对密度 137
+ l% Z' L/ x8 V! H9 ~1 U, L5 } 13.2 Special tests for natural fibers/天然纤维的测试 137) ]2 @% a& w4 O" w
13.2.1 Tests for cotton/棉纤维测试 1379 }& ^% N8 N4 K+ Y7 u5 }
13.2.2 Tests for wool/毛纤维测试 139
( k/ v: Q8 U4 |/ `/ e8 ] 13.3 Testing of tensile properties/拉伸性能测试 1402 a4 k0 K% k/ a# x8 B& R
13.3.1 Description of tensile proprieties/拉伸性能的描述 141, u. C' m: s2 m2 P, o7 f
13.3.2 Fiber and yarn tensile testing/纤维和纱线拉伸性能的测试 146
( q7 ]. E% v% E( A; `: F6 U$ j 13.3.3 Fabric tensile testing/织物拉伸性能测试方法 1471 p' n* p! X3 I
Questions/思考题 149- U P. y6 \( ^ H. P# }4 C6 Q
Chapter 14 Fabric Abrasion and Pilling/织物磨损与起球 150) g1 k5 b$ ?# d4 y
14.1 Types of abrasion/磨损的类型 1509 d+ Z0 D% F! d& d; I- O4 }
14.1.1 Abrasion between fabrics/织物间的磨损 150
) {2 `: \% ^8 I( I 14.1.2 Abrasion between fabric and a nontextile surface/织物与非纤维制品表面磨损 150; u2 E4 g7 w) z: q
14.1.3 Abrasion within fabric/织物内部磨损 151
$ u% h/ H8 H% o# M( Q: }9 P; a+ s" d 14.1.4 Abrasion by foreign materials within the fabric/与织物内部其他材料的磨损 151
; Q# }. C. c: v+ q2 z 14.2 Factors affecting fabric abrasion resistance/影响耐磨性能的因素 151/ [( {! D4 O3 A/ v
14.2.1 Fabric properties/织物性能 151
3 ` |7 h k4 j1 r 14.2.2 Other factors/其他因素 153
0 u9 s' X( J$ m0 T 14.3 Abrasion testing/磨损测试 154
8 ~; s) J& x h$ C 14.3.1 Visual comparison with an unabraded specimen/与未磨损样品视觉对比 154
- i' h* s1 l' k- N+ V. k 14.3.2 Number of cycles to produce a hole/产生磨损破洞需要的摩擦圈数 154
8 c; h4 z+ S' { 14.3.3 Change in a physical property/物理性能的变化 154
8 g$ \ @/ \' `( S 14.3.4 Microscopic examination/显微镜观测 155
\1 _( Y- }& I( f C 14.4 Aesthetics of abrasion and wear/穿着和磨损对美感的影响 155
* G1 p b# s6 I; [# @0 H0 K/ t5 w 14.4.1 Color changes caused by abrasion/磨损引起的颜色变化 155 O6 @: P1 I3 o* ~
14.4.2 Pilling/起球 156! l8 X3 u9 x8 s8 c
Questions/思考题 157* h, y7 Q7 ~2 o y2 U5 U, M4 z% H
Chapter 15 Fabric Hand and Drape/织物手感与悬垂 158( m4 X1 ^0 e$ q" v$ i% Z
15.1 Fabric hand/织物手感 158# x- f/ m3 q" X Y
15.2 Fabric drape/织物悬垂 1598 g9 i, q9 w" R8 ?' C. D- X4 i1 \. T/ G
15.3 Measurement of hand and drape/手感与悬垂的评价 161 g7 c8 d) F# c0 Z
15.3.1 Subjective evaluation/主观评定法 161! O$ ~/ _3 d: \$ S
15.3.2 Quantitative measurement/定量评定法 162
" n8 y$ f; K1 i1 \ { 15.3.3 Kawabata evaluation system/KES评定法 163
( F5 V, l% h9 I* j; { Questions/思考题 163
% x" Q# n5 ~6 f Chapter 16 Fabric Colorfastness/织物染色牢度 164/ E+ n, J: Z* V7 \% _8 F
16.1 Evaluation of color and colorfastness/颜色和染色牢度评定方法 164# e' K0 @: n" D0 s* \
16.2 Colorfastness tests/染色牢度测试 164
7 G( `& D% u( K/ |4 A 16.2.1 Colorfastness to crocking/耐摩擦色牢度 164. e; o( l1 H2 ^$ R% k
16.2.2 Colorfastness to laundering and bleaching/耐洗涤和耐漂白色牢 165- z5 u: K& s0 d4 P
16.2.3 Colorfastness to drycleaning/耐干洗色牢度 166, h1 }4 v* Y" q2 k- n3 b
16.2.4 Colorfastness to perspiration/耐汗渍色牢度 166
( |5 g$ G. y3 h5 C& Q* c 16.2.5 Colorfastness to water/耐水浸色牢度 166+ ^8 q! Z( U3 |* W0 _/ v9 g
16.2.6 Colorfastness to light/耐光照色牢度 1674 r7 {' ^% i, U( b! k5 t
16.2.7 Colorfastness to atmospheric contaminants/耐空气污染色牢度 168
) y+ K. L2 s+ C6 e" C' G Questions/思考题 168
7 z. v- z' b6 ?8 y; c* f Chapter 17 Fabric Flammability/织物可燃性 169! c9 F6 _$ ?# E7 z* T
17.1 Flammability standards/可燃性标准 169" r4 [% w7 `8 h) L( \2 T
17.2 Properties affecting flammability/影响可燃性的因素 169
' S- g. N, C" m 17.3 Flammability testing/可燃性测试 171- } _" d V4 \6 r: W1 p0 J
17.3.1 Forty-five degree angle test/45°燃烧测试法 171
) i. z, P2 X1 ]& `9 {/ H2 P* y q& } 17.3.2 Vertical flame tests/垂直燃烧测试法 172
0 W! k& A- j' B' P l* B& w, z3 ` 17.3.3 Carpet testing/地毯测试 172' H9 z2 e/ \2 [) o4 D
17.3.4 Cigarette tests/卷烟点燃测试 172
- A" l# H7 n, C4 i: ^2 | 17.3.5 Other standard flammability tests/其他可燃性测试 173
, Z( }1 E9 @8 X2 M/ M+ ? Questions/思考题 1733 G2 e5 z' o' b' V% y
Chapter 18 Comfort of Textiles/纺织品舒适性 174( D5 T3 G8 l: K! O( d3 y* T& v+ ?
18.1 Physical phenomena affecting thermal comfort/影响热舒适性能的物理现象 174- V. K1 ~, z" E. G4 }4 v4 J
18.1.1 Heat transfer/热传递 174
S- }* M# t' Z+ V- i( l 18.1.2 Moisture transfer/湿传递 1753 B, W6 w, v1 Q4 m
18.1.3 Water resistance/抗水性 175. Q V* Z2 P2 e+ `) o" T
18.1.4 Air transfer/透气性 176
6 W/ o; p- _! o. R2 ~& J 18.1.5 Porosity and cover factor/多孔性和覆盖系数 176
) b+ d! g& n! H5 n* r9 L9 u) f 18.1.6 Electrostatic propensity/静电 177" p3 y- I8 P3 [: a% _/ Y
18.2 Evaluations of textile properties related to comfort/与舒适性相关的纺织品性能评价 177
( e8 G! _: |( P3 j9 m% ~5 S, s7 H 18.2.1 Heat transfer/热传递 178
/ Q! k: s* l6 r5 Z1 V 18.2.2 Moisture properties/湿传递性能 179
; B& m; X6 z9 o" Y4 L/ O 18.2.3 Air permeability/透气性 179
* i% ]5 o% Q4 K' z 18.2.4 Porosity/孔隙率 180
4 [; G/ m$ `4 P8 h% U 18.2.5 Electrostatic tests/静电测试 1807 C w; r: R0 Q8 R
Questions/思考题 1807 {3 ^4 B H0 S& d4 n! B
Appendix/附录 181
+ a( V( j+ B8 e9 J+ y& M% L AATCC:AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS/美国纺织化学家与染色家协会 181 \0 v7 i# b9 k) l+ _* U
ASTM:AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR TESTING AND MATERIALS/美国材料试验学会 1844 L3 l* `+ T( D* |. A* K
Vocabulary/词汇表 189" Q t/ a. j. q( N- t
References/参考文献 197
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