
纺织材料学(双语教材),刘妍,熊磊,PDF。普通高等教育“十一五”国家级规划教材(本科),纺织工程专业双语教材,电子目录,14M。8 \: R. T' F- j" V
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内容提要$ e& _# u, q x' K ]1 j
本书讨论了纤维、纱线与织物(包括机织物、针织物及非织造布)的结构、机械性能、物理性能及使用性能。涉及的纤维势括天然纤维(如棉、毛、麻、丝等)、传统化学纤维及新型化学纤维。本书同时介绍了纤维、纱线和织物的各种标准测试方法(包括国际上常用的ASTM, AATCC及GB等方法),并讨论了与各种测试方法有关的测试原理及对测试结果的影响因素。
/ C! U2 C- ^: _! L) i! A! Q+ a4 a本书可供高等纺织院校纺织、服装相关专业的本科生及研究生作为《纺织材料学》的双语教材或专业英语教材,也可供其他专业师生、纺织贸易专业人员和科研及生产单位的技术人员参考。0 Z3 Q4 o6 E% n3 Q {
目录
( l9 \5 f) b1 ?) @& w5 ~Part Ⅰ An Introduction to Textiles/纺织入门 18
' B$ i% s3 R& v0 m5 X; f Chapter 1 Introduction/介绍 18( K G3 t' ?! m% d
1.1 ASTM Standard Terminology Relating to Textiles/ASTM纺织标准术语 18# y$ M6 Q9 ^9 F3 a5 W
1.2 Fiber history/纤维历史 26
H w7 h! ~2 v2 s, o 1.2.1 Natural fibers/天然纤维 26
+ P' x/ a" }9 F. ~# ?4 u5 I R 1.2.2 Man-made fibers/化学纤维 27
" b1 Y" ]/ L7 l9 g" d% f. k Questions/思考题 308 u1 V% g! u) m! n e! r! s
Part Ⅱ Textile Fibers/纺织纤维 32
* a# I& p9 @0 |8 {: `: S Chapter 2 Natural Cellulosic Fibers/天然纤维素纤维 32& W4 m, n I8 K% P$ s
2.1 Cotton/棉 33
8 D9 z/ I' \* D! o3 u* | 2.1.1 Nature of cotton/棉花的种类 33
7 w- v, G, q7 s 2.1.2 Classification/分类 34
( k) }- I# g: S9 b8 u% ?. d; ]( y- ] 2.1.3 Growth and structure of cotton/棉纤维的生长与结构 34
, A0 \. @; Y$ P0 K/ [ 2.1.4 Maturity/成熟度 36
: j$ a1 _$ \+ w% {0 P; n7 Y5 s 2.1.5 Cotton properties/棉纤维的性能 38
) x% R1 [/ X0 ` i( R" o8 Q 2.1.6 Cotton classification/棉花分级 39
1 x8 k! Z" S3 N) v 2.2 Bast fibers/韧皮纤维 40$ y- n( _: ~5 h, p! l
2.2.1 Flax (linen)/亚麻,亚麻织物 411 |) J. H6 k9 h0 F/ f
2.2.2 Ramie/苎麻 43
# F; d7 ^9 U: B, u 2.2.3 Hemp/汉麻 445 \- Y. X0 b8 n( Y
2.2.4 Jute/黄麻 445 y1 I% H ` y- \# Y7 {
Questions/思考题 45
* C& L6 H9 z& {; c Chapter 3 Natural Protein Fibers/天然蛋白质纤维 46' ^' z: c; g% U+ m5 U2 K1 l
3.1 Wool/绵羊毛 46
# ~; O h& z8 j0 L 3.1.1 Wool production and history/羊毛生产和历史 46
% K0 [# j- G# N: y% v 3.1.2 Wool grading/羊毛分级 47 e5 y$ ?6 D* z' J
3.1.3 Wool structure/羊毛结构 47
# ]1 y7 t* p( l6 B" b3 N& B: \ 3.1.4 Wool properties/羊毛性能 48! w/ D+ w% @* ^2 V+ D" z( U
3.2 Specialty animal fibers/特种动物毛 512 Q9 Y1 x! L$ [5 Q! a& @
3.3 Silk/丝 527 |* m. Y6 B1 R/ L! Y( M9 G7 {' G
Questions/思考题 54! @9 T9 F, f5 g" I1 m5 M. V
Chapter 4 Man-made Fibers/化学纤维 55
& a/ v9 w' S4 w1 N9 J. s( { 4.1 Manufacturing processing of fiber/纤维生产工艺 551 _/ ]: a! s- C
4.1.1 Wet spinning/湿法纺丝 564 \2 E. m# M. ]1 l
4.1.2 Dry spinning/干法纺丝 56) I% S& |- R4 ^+ T9 Y0 S( T( F! l' v
4.1.3 Melt spinning/熔体法纺丝 56
: B6 ^$ |9 Q, r# u( g) f. h% { 4.1.4 Gel spinning/凝胶纺丝 57
& T" H6 c. t K# h8 m/ e' @* B0 J 4.2 Regenerated fibers/再生纤维 57
) m) p6 k" ^: X# _ 4.2.1 Acetate/醋酯纤维 572 N, B% Y. `0 d6 A, N! f9 Y4 [
4.2.2 Triacetate/三醋酯纤维 59/ C. |8 F9 d# Z3 v. F' _1 t
4.2.3 Viscose fibers/粘胶纤维 59
/ n( D% W6 `1 f4 {! G( Z) A' h 4.3 Synthetic fibers/合成纤维 60
8 } q3 N8 I9 R1 o3 k4 I% } 4.3.1 Acrylic/腈纶 60
- U1 h6 n; G0 q* R' d& r# u5 V# @ 4.3.2 Modacrylic/改性腈纶 61
. g( P5 ^$ H" n+ k- J, I 4.3.3 Nylon/锦纶 61: q4 U9 f9 Z/ C0 G
4.3.4 Polyester/涤纶 620 Q0 \# J) M8 g
4.3.5 PBI/聚苯并咪唑纤维 63
. B& a0 M- E2 a0 k) g& q 4.3.6 Vinal/聚乙烯醇纤维 63
" c1 S, t" k+ K" }/ r1 e 4.3.7 Olefin/聚烯烃纤维 63* J# v- m4 y: ~' K9 `- u4 J
4.3.8 Aramid/芳纶 64# w+ S! A& i6 l/ y- @. r! E2 ^ g6 H
4.3.9 Lycra/莱卡 64
3 L2 ^* f9 b2 d% F$ U# [+ s( ` 4.4 Other man-made fibers/其他化学纤维 66
, t1 I; ^8 o! x" @) E' q( O* [ 4.4.1 Glass/玻璃纤维 66, Z$ h: ~- _. l( ^& P1 P8 g9 m% a
4.4.2 Metallic/金属纤维 67
$ e) k2 H9 C8 Q2 V* K* @ Questions/思考题 67$ ~" z; D$ P( ~
Chapter 5 New Fibers/新型纤维 680 g7 ~9 P! j* `8 @7 Z- a" X, D
5.1 Carbon fibers/碳纤维 682 ~) M# S( a0 y8 P+ A0 F9 R7 l+ h
5.2 Fluorocarbon/氟碳纤维 68
) b2 h' ~$ |* P: j) c+ Y% L' S 5.3 Lyocell fibers(Tencel)/莱塞尔纤维 68
) M$ T3 Y9 d" \1 U" B 5.4 High-wet-modulus fibers/高湿模量纤维 69
5 a" c: L3 \5 i: c3 c, C2 c 5.4.1 Modal fibers/莫代尔纤维 69* W2 H; u, z% ^
5.4.2 Richcel/丽赛纤维 70
1 r4 V& ~1 x6 h8 P* m! c! A. \) { 5.5 Soybean protein composite fibers/大豆蛋白复合纤维 70 C! t# {. c) n/ N5 s2 @* I, X
5.6 PLA fiber/聚左旋乳酸纤维 71
, ^/ i/ g; v: ]" q! x+ a1 k 5.7 Heterogenous fibers/复合纤维 71% N- Y; s) Q/ j
5.7.1 Bicomponent or multicomponent/双组分或多组分 725 H" d! E" q$ `4 @; c5 Z7 q
5.7.2 Biconstituent or multiconstituent/双成分或多成分 73
0 F6 ?8 A4 B. V 5.7.3 Matrix or matrix-fibril/基质型纤维 73; a+ V v% S/ O9 c# k) @
5.8 Differential fibers/差别化纤维 74
( ^: x( ]$ h+ i# g; ~ 5.9 Functional fibers/功能性纤维 74+ \: h: F8 ^+ `7 P: K, ]8 D& _% l
5.10 High performance fibers/高性能纤维 74
1 n- u# \2 u4 j' |' X3 T+ K Questions/思考题 740 @. v' `$ W/ _4 Y6 r+ @2 r2 w
Chapter 6 The Property of Absorbing Moisture/吸湿性 750 Q0 @" l/ F, `( M: x/ z- K
6.1 Orientation and crystallization/取向与结晶 75% G; \' c Q: B" [# L4 w
6.2 Moisture sorption/吸湿性 75
8 r8 p* s9 o0 A' R0 K: h 6.2.1 Regain and moisture content/回潮率与含水率 75 N- `8 f% |8 f K( U4 ~6 D+ o) \
6.2.2 Relation between regain and relative humidity/回潮率与相对湿度的关系 75
/ p0 q% p! Z+ e; g8 I 6.2.3 Comparison of various materials/不同材料吸湿性的对比 76) h! k8 f2 ]9 J) e! R; l
6.2.4 Theories of moisture sorption/吸湿理论 78
' e: f9 N4 B2 p1 ~ Questions/思考题 80- U1 d( T4 X4 M/ ~ |( `
Chapter 7 Other Physical Properties of Textile Fibers/纤维的其他物理性能 81( y1 v0 n* ~- u7 l: r5 q/ t
7.1 Electronic properties/电学性能 810 [# D& e. a) G: L
7.1.1 Definitions/定义 81
5 M1 ]8 ]* f2 p5 H. r3 H0 W 7.2 Optical properties/光学性能 82$ X- j# Q Z) X" t( b# f9 B2 ?; C
7.3 Thermal properties/热学性能 83* d! K! G# @5 a; \7 A6 J( X
7.3.1 Thermal parameters/热力学参数 83
" L0 Q# w( f6 N3 s. B 7.3.2 A comparison of temperature effects/温度效应比较 83
2 S$ \: p# ~& @# ] D Questions/思考题 834 u0 c% R: v' D% ^
Part Ⅲ Textile Yarns/纺织纱线 84( H+ t8 r$ h L3 p6 t$ T
Chapter 8 Yarn Processing and Construction/纱线制造与结构 84
) [( _3 q- ]3 ^5 ~8 w" i 8.1 Spun yarns/短纤纱 85$ I V2 A& q2 U8 g& `2 U3 f
8.2 Filament yarns/长丝纱 85+ c- N2 `4 r, L) C" U7 \' i
8.3 Methods of yarn processing/纺纱方法 85
! G0 `8 W2 P- a+ B 8.3.1 Ring-spinning/环锭纺 86
' d1 t3 e; ]: p! F' _! ], ` 8.3.2 New methods of yarn processing/新型纺纱方法 86
" D; U t2 c; y9 ? 8.4 Single and ply yarns/单纱和股线 89
5 X, u9 l- n: L$ c0 C4 \ 8.5 Special types of yarn/特种纱线 90. ~; Y, ]+ Z) I
8.5.1 Fancy yarns/花式纱 90
) |2 `, E" W: Q M U( }: X5 \ 8.5.2 Stretch yarns/弹力纱 91
3 e( W. k5 [) ~& E+ b 8.5.3 Textured yarns 变形纱线 91
w- _+ J4 W! ~1 C9 g 8.6 Blends and mixtures yarns/纱线混纺与混用 92# B8 _: n- s0 a, ~0 l( L
Questions/思考题 93
6 j5 `( R1 |) s6 p) g3 L$ G Chapter 9 Yarn Properties/纱线性能 94
/ J& b# d6 ]0 l% W! O9 p, T 9.1 Yarn number/纱线细度 94& z- D, f7 ?; e' q( O
9.1.1 Denier system/旦数 94# G5 P i9 j3 \) Y
9.1.2 Yarn count system/纱线英制支数 942 a# C+ [/ p! h
9.1.3 Tex system/线密度 95
$ E( K! u9 d$ T3 Y- M0 n" u0 u 9.1.4 Metric numbering system/公制支数 956 r. s5 k' P0 F _0 M. b! `
9.1.5 Conversion in different systems/不同系统之间的换算 95# r& ?2 u* D) q
9.2 Ply yarn counts and singles equivalent/股线支数与单纱支数 95- w% N$ Y' o! A3 p/ ^" Q& A
9.3 Yarn twist/纱线捻度 96
! i+ k, O* {& {7 u# a) S1 o" G$ c, W) d 9.4 Yarn hairiness/纱线毛羽 97* d# E, e* E: h \4 a
9.4.1 Hairiness test method/毛羽测试方法 98
" \! k4 l! H% b, `$ _/ t8 a5 G9 u 9.4.2 Factors affecting hairiness/影响毛羽的因素 98
$ }. M- S) f1 B2 P% c o! L5 | 9.5 Yarn unevenness/纱线不匀 991 S; q2 M) [( E* s( ^% L
9.5.1 Test of yarn unevenness/纱线不匀的测试 99
/ ]& v' T/ w7 r+ _' m 9.5.2 Reasons for yarn unevenness/纱线不匀的原因 100$ G4 y( y' w9 ?: o/ {' ^1 }$ e# c
9.6 Classification of yarn quality/纱线质量分析 1002 a8 K/ W5 b4 @0 [+ I- S9 \. J3 \) I* K
Questions/思考题 100
/ k, f# U6 n8 ]* K. i( H$ `Part Ⅳ Textile Fabrics/织物 102* N0 D Q F/ @# F7 q+ e6 J
Chapter 10 Woven Fabrics/机织物 102
* e; W: `8 W) c0 N3 O. x3 G; o& l y 10.1 Making woven fabrics/织制机织物 102
0 F$ b) `7 R7 `0 a( t; N 10.1.1 The loom/织机 102
3 v/ M. h* W# p4 U0 z1 g/ d* g! f 10.1.2 Loom type/织机类型 104: R1 O/ [! K8 e; k) d l
10.1.3 Loom motions/织机运动 104
+ R% }* m4 q) T$ k# S' w 10.1.4 Electronics in weaving/电子技术在织机中的应用 105* |, P6 V- n2 c/ @: H5 S: M3 \ J
10.1.5 The selvage/布边 105
+ u! m3 S5 N9 t. n5 ?" Q 10.2 Warp yarns and filling yarns/经纱和纬纱 105
8 P3 ?4 _8 w- Y; P5 ? x7 @8 G$ c 10.2.1 Identification/鉴别 106
, _8 m6 n- c4 q% n: s 10.3 Face and back/正面与反面 106
/ d1 I, w& y+ ^/ X7 [ 10.3.1 Reasons for differenee/存在差异的原因 1070 y% q$ q( n% T. h
10.3.2 Caution/应用的要点 107
( D h. i; J5 E/ r5 ~+ `- z9 p 10.4 Top and bottom/顶端和底端 1076 B- t2 C" @# ~$ W: G/ I
10.4.1 Reasons for difference/存在差异的原因 107) _" \0 S) u, h$ k" b
10.5 Weave floats/组织浮线 108* y9 W+ u3 x+ U% r s# R$ m
10.6 Basic weaves/基本组织 108
6 C0 t5 y1 ^" y% f0 C 10.6.1 Plain weave/平纹组织 1087 y, M* s+ p5 }4 E. l4 a8 S' t" r
10.6.2 Twill weave/斜纹组织 1091 Z @9 A+ e; ], _/ V. v/ q
10.6.3 Satin weave/缎纹组织 1119 B* v3 H: {6 h( w1 e, ?! h
10.7 Fabric performance and characteristics/织物性能和参数 112
D- K# D3 Q3 L, v- o9 D" _ 10.7.1 Fabric width/幅宽 1123 d' o2 l2 A4 q! B, Y- x/ p/ }, k7 b
10.7.2 Fabric weight/织物重量 112! N8 \: p$ N2 F2 R+ I5 D
10.7.3 Fabric thickness/织物厚度 113
: C/ M. F' d0 M; J 10.7.4 Fabric density/织物密度 113
) K0 K W6 ?1 _. I, [ 10.7.5 Fabric count/织物经纬密度 113
0 [7 i' a7 V# z- c, m 10.7.6 Fabric defects/织物疵点 113
; D' r% J2 j6 J( w+ a Questions/思考题 113
+ V7 i5 J3 f' n* a, {+ R Chapter 11 Knitted Fabrics/针织物 114
- \8 j' i! A6 L" S 11.1 Making of knitted fabric/针织物形成 114
* U1 @6 B. G4 L# ` 11.1.1 The forming of knitted stitches/线圈的形成 114
, B5 L U0 M/ ]9 [$ @6 m3 t% ?0 ~ 11.1.2 Types of knitted stitches/线圈的种类 116
# D" |; ~" s! [) J- l 11.2 Weft knits/纬编针织物 117
% `. H5 X7 m- F6 I& s 11.2.1 Jersey knit fabric/纬平针织物 1173 \* a$ [# d6 }, J5 m% f, U
11.2.2 Rib knit fabric/罗纹针织物 118
1 O$ D, `1 _. U$ x2 n 11.2.3 Purl knit fabric/双反面针织物 119
! e: S) }) B/ K6 N 11.2.4 Double knits/双面针织物 120
- f% {( L# p% z2 j9 n 11.2.5 Full-fashioned knits/全成形针织物 120
, i1 T! s) R+ h, X2 a' F 11.3 Warp knits/经编针织物 121" [. M& f- e4 x
11.3.1 Tricot fabrics/特里科经编针织物 121. K g' Q O: B$ w% v
11.3.2 Raschel fabrics/拉舍尔经编针织物 122
3 u9 ]' j) O; H. [+ S 11.4 Performance and characteristics/性能和参数 1220 w1 Y$ `; `' _; w4 n8 _
Questions/思考题 123# U: A, N0 z' {/ t1 P
Chapter 12 Nonwoven Fabrics/非织造布 124/ S6 y9 K0 q4 v7 R9 K, g
12.1 Introduction/导论 124+ l: @- d- q2 K% t$ g" Z- s
12.2 Manufacturing methods/生产方法 125( x% T" a, Y# f- u& `/ z7 |% ~
12.2.1 Dry laid system/干法成网 125
: z3 C7 @) ~9 W/ h2 v1 r: Y8 O 12.2.2 Wet laid system/湿法成网 1252 Y- d4 } f/ ^% E5 W
12.2.3 Polymer laid system/聚合物挤压法 125+ v: z. M2 c% b' c1 M) p
12.3 Various nonwovens/各种非织造布 125
& e( ?0 Q0 e2 @, W8 W 12.3.1 Needle punched nonwovens/针刺法非织造布 125
% M# X! p' V2 s$ Z! q0 z1 N 12.3.2 Bonded web nonwovens/黏合法非织造布 126
" E! c& Q' S6 K/ {: b6 z% b 12.3.3 Spunlaced nonwovens/射流喷网法非织造布 127
8 N+ ~5 Y! {' _. W: L 12.3.4 Spunbonded nonwovens/纺粘法非织造布 1280 n- r: C+ Q, D
12.3.5 Melt-blown nonwovens/熔喷法非织造布 129- E R6 ~7 [- V# F. B! T
Questions/思考题 129! n! u6 |4 v, t, Y
Part Ⅴ Textile Testing/纺织品测试 130$ j5 m+ y: e! l4 w |2 [
Chapter 13 General Test Methods/常规测试方法 130
5 u9 O! A, z7 z2 Y 13.1 General fiber tests/纤维常规测试 130
; b& D+ f( n% A) ]0 v 13.1.1 Fiber identification/纤维鉴别 130
; J0 S8 U1 G5 p X) l5 ` 13.1.2 Fiber length/纤维长度 134! B$ @ M6 L0 D& E. X) g1 [. c
13.1.3 Fiber fineness or linear density/纤维细度或线密度 135' g H1 [7 p9 ]: M1 N S
13.1.4 Cross-sectional shape/截面形状 135
. f& t) }8 C# X+ t% n8 h2 M; c4 d 13.1.5 Crimp/卷曲 135$ Z7 s ~2 L$ ?; S. @
13.1.6 Regain/回潮率 136: f6 N9 l/ R) M
13.1.7 Mechanical properties/机械性能 136
* c1 p" i; `/ A, Z+ \% g 13.1.8 Chemical characteristics/化学性能 136
0 j1 `& \& q6 _4 r; G 13.1.9 Surface characteristics/表面性能 136
p0 q7 p+ e, H$ b& M9 `5 v2 ? 13.1.10 Density and specific gravity/密度和相对密度 137
: K# d) \7 S" b# c: m! X 13.2 Special tests for natural fibers/天然纤维的测试 137
4 S1 W( _" d9 L1 ?+ b& w 13.2.1 Tests for cotton/棉纤维测试 137
X9 v9 c' d; Y" P. D8 m/ |5 ~ 13.2.2 Tests for wool/毛纤维测试 139
! a+ v0 [! {1 c+ h' ~. m 13.3 Testing of tensile properties/拉伸性能测试 140
" S' M$ z/ N% D, }4 K$ o 13.3.1 Description of tensile proprieties/拉伸性能的描述 141
) p, b2 u" |) S 13.3.2 Fiber and yarn tensile testing/纤维和纱线拉伸性能的测试 146
" L8 A0 W& f' Z! V# `/ m+ H 13.3.3 Fabric tensile testing/织物拉伸性能测试方法 1471 W1 L1 n" x5 ~: T* Y0 j6 S' y
Questions/思考题 149
( [0 f0 ?* G7 N$ k( g Chapter 14 Fabric Abrasion and Pilling/织物磨损与起球 150
% _0 N) ~9 v2 L* @ 14.1 Types of abrasion/磨损的类型 150
8 |$ Z* a, p( S& X 14.1.1 Abrasion between fabrics/织物间的磨损 150
" j% v$ y( ~+ H" e5 o% b 14.1.2 Abrasion between fabric and a nontextile surface/织物与非纤维制品表面磨损 150
, ^1 D7 n. {7 f6 ^1 @% I+ f 14.1.3 Abrasion within fabric/织物内部磨损 151: {) g& H5 @% Z: {. o+ R
14.1.4 Abrasion by foreign materials within the fabric/与织物内部其他材料的磨损 151; J! V+ c+ T9 c* v4 T; y O6 C
14.2 Factors affecting fabric abrasion resistance/影响耐磨性能的因素 1515 K! U6 y3 y: p) Z
14.2.1 Fabric properties/织物性能 151
7 d r( ^# ]( a7 {/ V& Q2 |6 R7 T- q 14.2.2 Other factors/其他因素 1537 T' _3 B# i2 D
14.3 Abrasion testing/磨损测试 154
5 K3 P& h. |3 ?* D6 P$ e. H; N5 O 14.3.1 Visual comparison with an unabraded specimen/与未磨损样品视觉对比 154& v8 D# D9 S6 {3 v+ r, z! u/ z
14.3.2 Number of cycles to produce a hole/产生磨损破洞需要的摩擦圈数 1544 D2 H, W9 \1 t" _
14.3.3 Change in a physical property/物理性能的变化 154
4 l3 D) ?$ ~0 I3 }/ ?" H 14.3.4 Microscopic examination/显微镜观测 155
8 r7 N. i- P# R 14.4 Aesthetics of abrasion and wear/穿着和磨损对美感的影响 1551 u' s# g5 _- u7 k9 y4 R4 H
14.4.1 Color changes caused by abrasion/磨损引起的颜色变化 155
5 `8 r. U6 b$ Y: I+ _2 l 14.4.2 Pilling/起球 1569 }. i% l1 _6 p4 A" L2 W! u! L
Questions/思考题 1574 K0 I5 s" Q" q0 m( H3 J) N8 b
Chapter 15 Fabric Hand and Drape/织物手感与悬垂 158
0 C+ H. b: V% b9 z% e0 E2 c( w, } 15.1 Fabric hand/织物手感 158& s J3 H; |0 ^8 B/ U* y
15.2 Fabric drape/织物悬垂 1597 ^7 W m4 ? G# }& L$ c1 O, g
15.3 Measurement of hand and drape/手感与悬垂的评价 161) e: S. f @( v
15.3.1 Subjective evaluation/主观评定法 161
' E# F) P/ V, [' e2 J 15.3.2 Quantitative measurement/定量评定法 162
, g6 `5 m; k; _, T1 k 15.3.3 Kawabata evaluation system/KES评定法 163) S( E$ j4 N+ Q4 j2 C$ E0 u. o- f
Questions/思考题 163
# n$ y& ?( o/ d' [3 u+ g9 \ Chapter 16 Fabric Colorfastness/织物染色牢度 164
" U" j* }4 ?- D2 w4 Q% ^ 16.1 Evaluation of color and colorfastness/颜色和染色牢度评定方法 164
) G! g/ F+ t: s6 r/ {; ^ 16.2 Colorfastness tests/染色牢度测试 1648 q7 r8 B" o: `* o
16.2.1 Colorfastness to crocking/耐摩擦色牢度 164, l/ @3 b2 m- `% f) \/ f: W
16.2.2 Colorfastness to laundering and bleaching/耐洗涤和耐漂白色牢 165
9 b& C( Y( K& Q 16.2.3 Colorfastness to drycleaning/耐干洗色牢度 166
3 | P6 ]" A3 P 16.2.4 Colorfastness to perspiration/耐汗渍色牢度 166
) L$ J( E; n. e. e% z 16.2.5 Colorfastness to water/耐水浸色牢度 166) S/ p: g6 c8 [2 K0 l
16.2.6 Colorfastness to light/耐光照色牢度 1678 p* b, V8 y* a0 u
16.2.7 Colorfastness to atmospheric contaminants/耐空气污染色牢度 1682 q/ k* T0 t) K. P& ~
Questions/思考题 1680 i* v: r6 D8 X3 g$ g
Chapter 17 Fabric Flammability/织物可燃性 169( W) U2 \2 P4 g5 i
17.1 Flammability standards/可燃性标准 169- A% R, g0 r7 Y2 q5 |5 e: ]
17.2 Properties affecting flammability/影响可燃性的因素 1699 J/ y! i7 A! d, ~
17.3 Flammability testing/可燃性测试 171
/ `2 H, g- v/ d; y 17.3.1 Forty-five degree angle test/45°燃烧测试法 171
% r% H/ w0 _8 s" q 17.3.2 Vertical flame tests/垂直燃烧测试法 172: K2 P1 B; X# a3 L0 B
17.3.3 Carpet testing/地毯测试 172% o) O" S* d2 a! |+ X; e+ C; Q! w7 ^
17.3.4 Cigarette tests/卷烟点燃测试 172
5 E U+ k' p. q1 A: A# ] 17.3.5 Other standard flammability tests/其他可燃性测试 173! U! M0 j! A! D9 d$ h0 f% i
Questions/思考题 173
8 w- h x! R1 G% J/ o Chapter 18 Comfort of Textiles/纺织品舒适性 174
9 M0 I4 A1 `8 _" H 18.1 Physical phenomena affecting thermal comfort/影响热舒适性能的物理现象 174
0 j7 ~9 M0 U) v u4 X6 [. Y, V- _ 18.1.1 Heat transfer/热传递 174
3 c" s& D& m+ T( r 18.1.2 Moisture transfer/湿传递 1755 M5 S" ?% j- y! j: J* H; W" |
18.1.3 Water resistance/抗水性 175/ h8 X; g0 Z. ~9 b1 g' n7 r
18.1.4 Air transfer/透气性 176
8 J0 q. w \, B7 U% K0 z5 A) B1 X3 q% l 18.1.5 Porosity and cover factor/多孔性和覆盖系数 176
& ]7 i* A9 S) a0 b- p8 c 18.1.6 Electrostatic propensity/静电 1777 h* h- t; t) I- S) y& `) P/ ^, ^2 K
18.2 Evaluations of textile properties related to comfort/与舒适性相关的纺织品性能评价 177
' ~1 y1 Z5 I. ]) s* v' \ 18.2.1 Heat transfer/热传递 178/ {7 g( \6 _; f# j. g6 t& a
18.2.2 Moisture properties/湿传递性能 179
7 ~5 y A' ?& l- t 18.2.3 Air permeability/透气性 179
2 R% ?: Z5 e8 z 18.2.4 Porosity/孔隙率 180
7 {+ A4 \/ Y- G, B# e1 z, k 18.2.5 Electrostatic tests/静电测试 180) W' b! N1 Y2 \; d; o
Questions/思考题 1808 J; m' ~2 K) x8 n
Appendix/附录 1814 H6 g7 |! g3 H& K3 y
AATCC:AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS/美国纺织化学家与染色家协会 181
, y# G( L* t/ u. S* {0 i ASTM:AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR TESTING AND MATERIALS/美国材料试验学会 184* E( E7 Y* o' K+ B. S
Vocabulary/词汇表 189 J9 r( w9 _* a3 Q; n' O0 i/ c
References/参考文献 1970 \; \4 b# V# {" s
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