
纺织材料学(双语教材),刘妍,熊磊,PDF。普通高等教育“十一五”国家级规划教材(本科),纺织工程专业双语教材,电子目录,14M。
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0 y5 W4 q" e j- R内容提要
! h% ` k8 t. x& u本书讨论了纤维、纱线与织物(包括机织物、针织物及非织造布)的结构、机械性能、物理性能及使用性能。涉及的纤维势括天然纤维(如棉、毛、麻、丝等)、传统化学纤维及新型化学纤维。本书同时介绍了纤维、纱线和织物的各种标准测试方法(包括国际上常用的ASTM, AATCC及GB等方法),并讨论了与各种测试方法有关的测试原理及对测试结果的影响因素。
8 B0 V( S' a4 ^# s本书可供高等纺织院校纺织、服装相关专业的本科生及研究生作为《纺织材料学》的双语教材或专业英语教材,也可供其他专业师生、纺织贸易专业人员和科研及生产单位的技术人员参考。9 p/ v+ J. L) s, z
目录
2 w1 w6 J/ p8 l$ J9 RPart Ⅰ An Introduction to Textiles/纺织入门 18, l; c) B9 {. \0 w/ v
Chapter 1 Introduction/介绍 18: i9 L; N, o! S6 F# g/ P! \& o8 f
1.1 ASTM Standard Terminology Relating to Textiles/ASTM纺织标准术语 18
+ `1 {/ y1 K$ _+ ` 1.2 Fiber history/纤维历史 26
$ _" ?- o. E' Y& [1 ^; |; u 1.2.1 Natural fibers/天然纤维 26
5 v; N3 M! `7 q. j% f+ N 1.2.2 Man-made fibers/化学纤维 27' z! J9 D. [" y: ]. R& j
Questions/思考题 30
& e p4 a i4 I( H$ Q9 l# a4 o" W XPart Ⅱ Textile Fibers/纺织纤维 32
; {. h @3 m4 r; e9 N3 l- M Chapter 2 Natural Cellulosic Fibers/天然纤维素纤维 32
! @2 o* y3 k* N8 C' j 2.1 Cotton/棉 33
" V6 j/ b# |4 g' @ 2.1.1 Nature of cotton/棉花的种类 33+ u' t$ \/ G* \2 l% g f
2.1.2 Classification/分类 34, y& [ ]+ l* t* O2 o! l6 u
2.1.3 Growth and structure of cotton/棉纤维的生长与结构 34$ _( X& o3 b3 a) I* y! b
2.1.4 Maturity/成熟度 36! o- \: L# E, k; [* ?3 v5 v
2.1.5 Cotton properties/棉纤维的性能 38
. l, f( q$ K* Z1 U 2.1.6 Cotton classification/棉花分级 39
+ o- U) V! I$ F. r* q; w 2.2 Bast fibers/韧皮纤维 40
" w- E c% @8 J( J 2.2.1 Flax (linen)/亚麻,亚麻织物 41" N9 [2 H' o+ B1 L% Z
2.2.2 Ramie/苎麻 43
9 E+ R% _* N4 p9 ?$ E+ J. p 2.2.3 Hemp/汉麻 447 M% H7 S7 E' D% u7 F3 S/ k
2.2.4 Jute/黄麻 44
) Y4 u# `- m1 d6 u+ x' i7 ~ Questions/思考题 454 r( ^- V. B& z: i* o$ h- d
Chapter 3 Natural Protein Fibers/天然蛋白质纤维 46
# i) j' W7 \* B: } 3.1 Wool/绵羊毛 46
# F! N4 |8 o; O3 V 3.1.1 Wool production and history/羊毛生产和历史 464 z/ u% t. X3 E# [2 A# d
3.1.2 Wool grading/羊毛分级 47
, x d) o/ M( R% p: v 3.1.3 Wool structure/羊毛结构 47
9 `: }! x* b( X! ]6 t5 G0 ]9 l 3.1.4 Wool properties/羊毛性能 486 M7 h/ \7 T( `; H1 l& l+ ^( H
3.2 Specialty animal fibers/特种动物毛 51 G8 l8 t% P0 H, W" J4 I8 X
3.3 Silk/丝 52
# q4 I9 ^# _. ]$ K1 | Questions/思考题 54
\( o7 _) S# B Chapter 4 Man-made Fibers/化学纤维 55* v" h$ t* D6 B/ h1 L
4.1 Manufacturing processing of fiber/纤维生产工艺 55% m( h( l. a0 p; ^
4.1.1 Wet spinning/湿法纺丝 56
% S- x/ E# s& V$ t 4.1.2 Dry spinning/干法纺丝 56! z; c& |0 z X# H0 l
4.1.3 Melt spinning/熔体法纺丝 56
$ q' W- H1 H% s- A, n 4.1.4 Gel spinning/凝胶纺丝 573 P+ K) U6 C x& t3 }; X
4.2 Regenerated fibers/再生纤维 579 O+ _$ w1 P$ C/ e- o0 s
4.2.1 Acetate/醋酯纤维 57* K2 }' L u7 f% B) q3 U4 l
4.2.2 Triacetate/三醋酯纤维 595 _3 Q" j4 j3 R1 s. R/ Z1 I" z% {
4.2.3 Viscose fibers/粘胶纤维 59
, z) z. ?4 j. R' j+ y0 ] 4.3 Synthetic fibers/合成纤维 603 S; Y: }% P. x& e, _
4.3.1 Acrylic/腈纶 60
: f+ ~. V* E4 y3 T5 o 4.3.2 Modacrylic/改性腈纶 61
& Z1 V4 a, C4 \ d7 C- c5 w 4.3.3 Nylon/锦纶 61
1 N, D3 |9 N( R5 w: b 4.3.4 Polyester/涤纶 62
7 ?% t$ H# J. p& I9 o3 p3 @$ t 4.3.5 PBI/聚苯并咪唑纤维 63
$ L) P9 ]2 P, N2 b7 D9 ~- C 4.3.6 Vinal/聚乙烯醇纤维 63
5 D- S0 ?; s" W 4.3.7 Olefin/聚烯烃纤维 63
4 a$ Y1 y3 j% g0 N2 A 4.3.8 Aramid/芳纶 64" I- z" W6 o7 s+ r6 x P
4.3.9 Lycra/莱卡 64$ o' b( G! V( m E/ r4 f
4.4 Other man-made fibers/其他化学纤维 66
+ j% o0 s& x9 P) y" c5 @# n 4.4.1 Glass/玻璃纤维 66
: ]1 G1 T3 X8 E8 C7 u# \' d+ l 4.4.2 Metallic/金属纤维 676 n, i( Z+ u8 c6 r
Questions/思考题 67: R& O* D7 `& F+ ^* N8 D1 ~
Chapter 5 New Fibers/新型纤维 68
9 A& s1 x: s& { i( l3 ?4 i 5.1 Carbon fibers/碳纤维 681 e' A7 K& c( d+ f) F
5.2 Fluorocarbon/氟碳纤维 68
% l$ l' o$ ^ D2 _0 c' u8 ~ 5.3 Lyocell fibers(Tencel)/莱塞尔纤维 68, S1 \. H$ Q# t6 b' n* b
5.4 High-wet-modulus fibers/高湿模量纤维 693 i6 V6 s! Y# [& T
5.4.1 Modal fibers/莫代尔纤维 69
5 O6 z |7 X3 n1 m( x) i 5.4.2 Richcel/丽赛纤维 70
6 x* X4 z$ t" {3 @. b) H. B 5.5 Soybean protein composite fibers/大豆蛋白复合纤维 70
; H6 `7 f+ f' q 5.6 PLA fiber/聚左旋乳酸纤维 71 ?: D2 z/ q6 |" l! ?: I0 u3 t
5.7 Heterogenous fibers/复合纤维 711 U- K' |! X/ I9 h6 E# V
5.7.1 Bicomponent or multicomponent/双组分或多组分 72
. z* m! D4 N* b3 P+ `* t8 P 5.7.2 Biconstituent or multiconstituent/双成分或多成分 73
+ C" l/ ^8 K( z+ W: c& a$ u# ~" } 5.7.3 Matrix or matrix-fibril/基质型纤维 73
7 o R2 F" U1 Q( o4 R: H( A 5.8 Differential fibers/差别化纤维 748 D) N" {2 ?7 s5 N( {
5.9 Functional fibers/功能性纤维 74- d$ l( K4 |2 b
5.10 High performance fibers/高性能纤维 746 [9 u/ b1 i2 ~) y" d, u* Y7 X0 x
Questions/思考题 74
& [3 d+ D% @& H/ `$ { Chapter 6 The Property of Absorbing Moisture/吸湿性 75( C0 F# ~* r% e# T4 ^& |( @. Q
6.1 Orientation and crystallization/取向与结晶 75
7 Q& G3 ^; F3 }1 K2 n5 R, Q 6.2 Moisture sorption/吸湿性 75
! K9 L- U: U$ u! l) F0 M 6.2.1 Regain and moisture content/回潮率与含水率 75, C$ [+ Z: R. p- U1 Y
6.2.2 Relation between regain and relative humidity/回潮率与相对湿度的关系 75
* T' C; S, W* Y& b% `# m 6.2.3 Comparison of various materials/不同材料吸湿性的对比 76. o/ b" u* L, X* N% j
6.2.4 Theories of moisture sorption/吸湿理论 78
/ t" Q! n) R* P' C& e' _ Questions/思考题 80) H. u6 m; H1 z) z M
Chapter 7 Other Physical Properties of Textile Fibers/纤维的其他物理性能 81
- t( t+ }9 R% I 7.1 Electronic properties/电学性能 81; a/ d, y1 Y; D( L5 ]) F1 `# \: E
7.1.1 Definitions/定义 81( Y1 `8 s- o6 m& v. s
7.2 Optical properties/光学性能 827 A# ?% J3 q. u( @" L3 C
7.3 Thermal properties/热学性能 835 O+ L* [/ v5 R E2 g( x# |# u9 ^
7.3.1 Thermal parameters/热力学参数 83. d( x+ j0 J0 f; C& w
7.3.2 A comparison of temperature effects/温度效应比较 83
* h- o7 x$ I2 D3 P Questions/思考题 83
+ g. Q0 k7 M7 K* RPart Ⅲ Textile Yarns/纺织纱线 84
, Y0 ^7 t& I$ Q) M) \! {+ E0 t% ? Chapter 8 Yarn Processing and Construction/纱线制造与结构 840 N/ D8 N, }9 G6 Y3 I8 w9 b$ W/ M
8.1 Spun yarns/短纤纱 85* M9 ]* H; ]& s' N* l
8.2 Filament yarns/长丝纱 85# r) O$ U: b/ Q
8.3 Methods of yarn processing/纺纱方法 85 P% D6 I, i5 H8 u4 u7 Q
8.3.1 Ring-spinning/环锭纺 86
i2 ~. ~+ o8 ^. K! Z8 A 8.3.2 New methods of yarn processing/新型纺纱方法 86
: S3 T2 ^: R5 _6 q5 i 8.4 Single and ply yarns/单纱和股线 891 _* A( b0 M: C# ]" M) k
8.5 Special types of yarn/特种纱线 907 `) E( z8 Q9 ]
8.5.1 Fancy yarns/花式纱 905 V9 t y1 b6 ?$ v; s$ a
8.5.2 Stretch yarns/弹力纱 91
1 n* @. ?2 j/ l. \! N, T, }* j 8.5.3 Textured yarns 变形纱线 91
' {+ q6 U. O. M4 J6 }3 u; T 8.6 Blends and mixtures yarns/纱线混纺与混用 92
% T- y0 A2 b, ]! g, L Questions/思考题 930 U7 O5 n" P7 _, a I
Chapter 9 Yarn Properties/纱线性能 94
6 O, a& p& [/ _9 Y8 W% d8 q 9.1 Yarn number/纱线细度 949 h7 z3 s7 x9 z. m6 _6 `
9.1.1 Denier system/旦数 948 o( I! l* [0 N8 O, w" i7 _0 K
9.1.2 Yarn count system/纱线英制支数 94
8 d8 s6 t/ H# H& ^2 j/ N 9.1.3 Tex system/线密度 95
# q: O( ^1 ~7 Z7 t7 Y- X* V 9.1.4 Metric numbering system/公制支数 95- N8 {7 i d$ @: l2 t( m" x4 Z0 ~
9.1.5 Conversion in different systems/不同系统之间的换算 953 O! |% c, y2 n3 v% r
9.2 Ply yarn counts and singles equivalent/股线支数与单纱支数 95
3 f$ ~+ D+ B* Q4 j6 B# b- E( Z# t 9.3 Yarn twist/纱线捻度 96
2 l3 O; ]7 k7 H8 H- q0 E 9.4 Yarn hairiness/纱线毛羽 97
/ X7 Y+ M) h0 k: A( u1 m 9.4.1 Hairiness test method/毛羽测试方法 98
% {# ^ q7 p6 {% n 9.4.2 Factors affecting hairiness/影响毛羽的因素 98
5 E4 t& A2 V% J+ @, b 9.5 Yarn unevenness/纱线不匀 99" S' J2 n# ? b' b5 {' _
9.5.1 Test of yarn unevenness/纱线不匀的测试 995 }$ {3 u8 ~$ _: ]7 X9 ]6 C
9.5.2 Reasons for yarn unevenness/纱线不匀的原因 100
: r( G0 H) f" `; _1 N 9.6 Classification of yarn quality/纱线质量分析 100
, b+ Q: G' n3 B' ?# } Questions/思考题 100 ?: C$ O9 c1 G, y
Part Ⅳ Textile Fabrics/织物 102
1 @$ i8 M# |7 _ Chapter 10 Woven Fabrics/机织物 1023 W: _' O' \- s
10.1 Making woven fabrics/织制机织物 102
2 v, f( l1 r. v# R. ^6 V5 i 10.1.1 The loom/织机 102
% t E/ z. e' M0 c( I 10.1.2 Loom type/织机类型 104
% r2 v5 Q5 ?" y0 V! c$ W! K8 l 10.1.3 Loom motions/织机运动 104$ B7 S( [8 E! o
10.1.4 Electronics in weaving/电子技术在织机中的应用 105
0 s$ d/ A: X* T 10.1.5 The selvage/布边 105
1 c7 i3 D( X: W! K$ o% v 10.2 Warp yarns and filling yarns/经纱和纬纱 105
9 w& P" c) n% Z0 n+ ]& o$ N 10.2.1 Identification/鉴别 106
5 N& c0 ]/ ?. x" o7 Q 10.3 Face and back/正面与反面 1065 @: M, B( j+ r: V, H
10.3.1 Reasons for differenee/存在差异的原因 1074 U/ W1 |$ y/ j3 ~( K3 {
10.3.2 Caution/应用的要点 107
7 x; ]5 ]& Z$ v: n A 10.4 Top and bottom/顶端和底端 107
0 c6 K8 ^+ K$ ?0 G$ o9 k 10.4.1 Reasons for difference/存在差异的原因 107
7 C7 ?0 w3 A+ y% Z" t8 \ 10.5 Weave floats/组织浮线 108
& P/ A, p3 A3 c; t8 ^. X% q, P 10.6 Basic weaves/基本组织 108
& q& e! b A$ B 10.6.1 Plain weave/平纹组织 1084 U( w) o2 Y5 g* T, v( _
10.6.2 Twill weave/斜纹组织 109
% r. D9 M% r" o/ A X: Y 10.6.3 Satin weave/缎纹组织 1115 S; S3 x& V3 `6 c0 C' S
10.7 Fabric performance and characteristics/织物性能和参数 112
+ ~8 K) S; E1 x 10.7.1 Fabric width/幅宽 1122 G# l. p- V4 U; y. l* e! c/ A/ v
10.7.2 Fabric weight/织物重量 112
' M; f8 b/ L6 e: S' s 10.7.3 Fabric thickness/织物厚度 113 y4 b, G$ o4 e e, S1 s
10.7.4 Fabric density/织物密度 113
# |# u' w5 Z/ j V2 J1 z5 h$ S: a 10.7.5 Fabric count/织物经纬密度 113) A& S) j$ g: W `- |
10.7.6 Fabric defects/织物疵点 113
+ b u7 W C+ ~- c8 u Questions/思考题 1130 S+ R3 X9 {/ _& k- g- m
Chapter 11 Knitted Fabrics/针织物 114+ Q# P/ s: E* B& z
11.1 Making of knitted fabric/针织物形成 114+ C# @) T% M3 O" K9 S- ^' @
11.1.1 The forming of knitted stitches/线圈的形成 114
; r: C# M4 ]' O+ Y! V1 H* b1 U 11.1.2 Types of knitted stitches/线圈的种类 116
2 B1 T' ^4 k) Y# B- K 11.2 Weft knits/纬编针织物 117' Z `* b$ `+ v! e' Q
11.2.1 Jersey knit fabric/纬平针织物 1175 Q& \. c+ c: L; d5 P; ^
11.2.2 Rib knit fabric/罗纹针织物 118
4 e$ j: `- r1 y 11.2.3 Purl knit fabric/双反面针织物 119 h) b6 _% S* |
11.2.4 Double knits/双面针织物 1206 V) i5 |$ ]% Q& S$ Q1 ^" e
11.2.5 Full-fashioned knits/全成形针织物 120
) a+ h, n3 o2 T+ K' r( e 11.3 Warp knits/经编针织物 121
+ g5 T% r* }& p0 b! l9 c& f" f 11.3.1 Tricot fabrics/特里科经编针织物 121
" ~6 F5 O$ m" s1 v) w/ a# W 11.3.2 Raschel fabrics/拉舍尔经编针织物 122
% ^0 ^6 l0 G& n& q4 t' z7 B 11.4 Performance and characteristics/性能和参数 122+ g: Y' ^! Y4 k
Questions/思考题 123/ ?. j' B7 }$ f9 c
Chapter 12 Nonwoven Fabrics/非织造布 1249 a Y7 {* p E" ~* r8 D4 m: {5 E* I" _
12.1 Introduction/导论 124
0 u- Z# J: w) d& r 12.2 Manufacturing methods/生产方法 1255 m4 A: } v5 S% E& m, R
12.2.1 Dry laid system/干法成网 125
! ~) ^& H5 _1 Y; t2 b! u 12.2.2 Wet laid system/湿法成网 125! Y- X+ j# p, ]% p6 x3 F
12.2.3 Polymer laid system/聚合物挤压法 125
7 a E g: G! D; a8 A 12.3 Various nonwovens/各种非织造布 125
0 `" o; P$ I5 q6 V' _! G: k; F! F 12.3.1 Needle punched nonwovens/针刺法非织造布 1255 V' X( i" Y# r; u. c1 i1 q
12.3.2 Bonded web nonwovens/黏合法非织造布 126
5 J8 z( Q. {# o 12.3.3 Spunlaced nonwovens/射流喷网法非织造布 1277 o1 `0 @ b" n# t2 k1 V& ~8 ^' F7 U" v
12.3.4 Spunbonded nonwovens/纺粘法非织造布 128
* f; X3 y9 {, ^' M 12.3.5 Melt-blown nonwovens/熔喷法非织造布 129
; f: n% ]; S/ T' e- K/ h/ `4 G0 o+ _ Questions/思考题 129
. f7 C E- s- {& F( w0 |Part Ⅴ Textile Testing/纺织品测试 130
1 g7 Q4 }$ ^2 z1 B( B) u Chapter 13 General Test Methods/常规测试方法 130
! W8 R- Z4 ]( C" W; _ 13.1 General fiber tests/纤维常规测试 130& l4 S; A; t( e" Q+ }# s% L# i5 v
13.1.1 Fiber identification/纤维鉴别 130
# {6 w' G# D: `3 Y% ` 13.1.2 Fiber length/纤维长度 134' F+ n" j0 V1 l% I( \$ Q: L
13.1.3 Fiber fineness or linear density/纤维细度或线密度 1353 H' T9 G$ O, g
13.1.4 Cross-sectional shape/截面形状 135
% ~$ o0 H* t! e3 }4 [8 p. D, g 13.1.5 Crimp/卷曲 135
5 y' W6 f9 `+ l5 O2 b) R P 13.1.6 Regain/回潮率 136
1 i6 J; j: M" [2 z( o- y 13.1.7 Mechanical properties/机械性能 136
& T3 f4 e) X7 `/ @8 { 13.1.8 Chemical characteristics/化学性能 1369 \, l+ O2 N; a3 j$ t
13.1.9 Surface characteristics/表面性能 136
+ k; a/ B8 a* Z7 b+ } 13.1.10 Density and specific gravity/密度和相对密度 137. x r9 F, e/ A8 }
13.2 Special tests for natural fibers/天然纤维的测试 137
& H- B6 m p8 J7 K 13.2.1 Tests for cotton/棉纤维测试 137; L% p# t( `' E
13.2.2 Tests for wool/毛纤维测试 139
$ o9 _ l5 Z' Q& ~% z 13.3 Testing of tensile properties/拉伸性能测试 140: _; y9 `* {( }6 z6 ?9 C2 D
13.3.1 Description of tensile proprieties/拉伸性能的描述 141
* O) u V4 b. n" N4 m9 c* O 13.3.2 Fiber and yarn tensile testing/纤维和纱线拉伸性能的测试 146$ q1 n3 h1 ` H8 }8 m' j4 ~
13.3.3 Fabric tensile testing/织物拉伸性能测试方法 147
) B4 O' I- ^. {& V9 a7 }/ h Questions/思考题 149$ f( \1 O0 }& f, a
Chapter 14 Fabric Abrasion and Pilling/织物磨损与起球 150% T- e7 T, B3 e/ z
14.1 Types of abrasion/磨损的类型 150
& n7 Q$ C2 b" n- W# N1 `; P 14.1.1 Abrasion between fabrics/织物间的磨损 150
* ~5 E' Q3 J- X) S9 C+ l- g 14.1.2 Abrasion between fabric and a nontextile surface/织物与非纤维制品表面磨损 150
# b" ^" s1 I$ i/ r3 } c# v0 f 14.1.3 Abrasion within fabric/织物内部磨损 151* t: R9 N( `) ^* M/ G* T# G( \
14.1.4 Abrasion by foreign materials within the fabric/与织物内部其他材料的磨损 151
7 b, B A% i# p/ R 14.2 Factors affecting fabric abrasion resistance/影响耐磨性能的因素 1510 m) Y) T) P( R ~
14.2.1 Fabric properties/织物性能 151
* t" {' c% q0 l8 ?3 y9 n: k6 y7 N) u2 v 14.2.2 Other factors/其他因素 1538 f p2 I9 m; s6 f. Q2 V
14.3 Abrasion testing/磨损测试 154
3 \7 z* p' P* \7 a! { 14.3.1 Visual comparison with an unabraded specimen/与未磨损样品视觉对比 154
6 t. B K& P' O! ] 14.3.2 Number of cycles to produce a hole/产生磨损破洞需要的摩擦圈数 154
. S9 n+ {) p, b8 Q 14.3.3 Change in a physical property/物理性能的变化 154 y- N5 l0 T: {
14.3.4 Microscopic examination/显微镜观测 155
. C2 n2 p* @. l) D: V M' P 14.4 Aesthetics of abrasion and wear/穿着和磨损对美感的影响 155
* k$ i7 [: B+ r1 ?0 k- w; C) U' a7 A 14.4.1 Color changes caused by abrasion/磨损引起的颜色变化 1555 R: y7 T! S! f; Y% h% }6 P! r% _
14.4.2 Pilling/起球 1566 A# D6 f( \: {! t7 k
Questions/思考题 1577 q7 M9 D J/ x) b/ P0 N5 S
Chapter 15 Fabric Hand and Drape/织物手感与悬垂 158
3 ^" L! P! ?( S- W$ y& ] 15.1 Fabric hand/织物手感 158
; e% e) [( [8 ~5 h 15.2 Fabric drape/织物悬垂 159
) I3 g* M4 P9 ?" v 15.3 Measurement of hand and drape/手感与悬垂的评价 1613 u/ I# I- y% _) p, K9 f5 d
15.3.1 Subjective evaluation/主观评定法 161+ T) a: i5 V" l! v) y7 d; b8 x
15.3.2 Quantitative measurement/定量评定法 162
* L( M o8 v8 T: M$ z k3 s( z 15.3.3 Kawabata evaluation system/KES评定法 1636 L& u+ W% ~% V) L1 y+ }
Questions/思考题 163
1 K+ c6 [, E+ u6 W- W& ]2 c$ Y Chapter 16 Fabric Colorfastness/织物染色牢度 164
5 d. R1 O. M O5 C; q" V, Y 16.1 Evaluation of color and colorfastness/颜色和染色牢度评定方法 164& Z' y7 O$ u V, p: W
16.2 Colorfastness tests/染色牢度测试 164
3 G) T I7 ^$ @ 16.2.1 Colorfastness to crocking/耐摩擦色牢度 164 @' H: y+ d# Q8 E$ h
16.2.2 Colorfastness to laundering and bleaching/耐洗涤和耐漂白色牢 165
7 o7 M' O z* I3 s6 n8 c3 T0 _ 16.2.3 Colorfastness to drycleaning/耐干洗色牢度 166
& p# I& v' Y" w! l8 p3 S 16.2.4 Colorfastness to perspiration/耐汗渍色牢度 166
6 C7 Z I* `. q2 d 16.2.5 Colorfastness to water/耐水浸色牢度 166
; N/ `" L( I5 a1 ^. t% [ 16.2.6 Colorfastness to light/耐光照色牢度 167" d2 j$ w7 Q. ^: x$ c% h/ o0 q. W, z
16.2.7 Colorfastness to atmospheric contaminants/耐空气污染色牢度 168
. O: `# S2 ]( \) A: x# h Questions/思考题 168# ^2 E0 d g- w$ G/ V' M; q. t7 |
Chapter 17 Fabric Flammability/织物可燃性 169
" y+ f$ z i/ E: I- B+ u) | 17.1 Flammability standards/可燃性标准 169
- n0 m$ f3 Y+ Q. q* V- t' }9 a 17.2 Properties affecting flammability/影响可燃性的因素 169- p8 G$ h2 D/ _1 M1 T+ i6 y! s1 U
17.3 Flammability testing/可燃性测试 171
: F8 _ {; L+ ^5 _4 Z 17.3.1 Forty-five degree angle test/45°燃烧测试法 171) q. q) B! ]6 [% B
17.3.2 Vertical flame tests/垂直燃烧测试法 172
/ N0 A- m$ {# O" S' g 17.3.3 Carpet testing/地毯测试 172
8 ], {4 c3 s1 b$ s; E 17.3.4 Cigarette tests/卷烟点燃测试 172
; X! u3 ]1 K+ X1 S) K* u 17.3.5 Other standard flammability tests/其他可燃性测试 173
- ?; k& b" a0 O! {' | Questions/思考题 1730 S) y2 ^" N3 v! F" `$ d1 \
Chapter 18 Comfort of Textiles/纺织品舒适性 1740 X! g! l! h0 g" T: `. ~; `
18.1 Physical phenomena affecting thermal comfort/影响热舒适性能的物理现象 174
2 w! C: |; ]( T1 N6 ]! Y1 H8 z7 u 18.1.1 Heat transfer/热传递 174
7 Q( Y: f; X, p0 i6 I9 C& l2 q. b 18.1.2 Moisture transfer/湿传递 175. ^' D2 h- ^1 i, M k6 G
18.1.3 Water resistance/抗水性 175
7 }' ~( d2 q2 E2 t! s 18.1.4 Air transfer/透气性 176
( h& Q' \& S: j, j* } 18.1.5 Porosity and cover factor/多孔性和覆盖系数 176
* J7 B8 l/ r& r) @& R4 U 18.1.6 Electrostatic propensity/静电 177
; n/ b8 K) z3 x/ E6 @% f) Y% n7 {( N 18.2 Evaluations of textile properties related to comfort/与舒适性相关的纺织品性能评价 177
* y" N9 M; ~3 c7 D2 K 18.2.1 Heat transfer/热传递 178, a5 T9 N3 U- V" n6 Y0 B% Z9 N
18.2.2 Moisture properties/湿传递性能 179
% w* E' @: s# H3 w& p- _ 18.2.3 Air permeability/透气性 179
9 q" W/ d& H' f4 i3 C 18.2.4 Porosity/孔隙率 180# p& t3 N& h4 ]
18.2.5 Electrostatic tests/静电测试 180
5 v3 i4 H" T$ e Questions/思考题 180
( Y5 t! v+ F$ R7 i! Q H/ f1 n% jAppendix/附录 181$ M7 T# ?5 `9 J/ H c. ?
AATCC:AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS/美国纺织化学家与染色家协会 181, Q, S" \3 V t7 @7 |8 H
ASTM:AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR TESTING AND MATERIALS/美国材料试验学会 1849 z) I+ w+ K" m8 X
Vocabulary/词汇表 189
- ?4 A2 C7 x6 ~References/参考文献 197
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