
纺织材料学(双语教材),刘妍,熊磊,PDF。普通高等教育“十一五”国家级规划教材(本科),纺织工程专业双语教材,电子目录,14M。4 ?2 }/ N, U' g) C: j, `' h
2 h) D2 J$ S* A; |/ w. ^内容提要
/ w1 _2 G* I o5 e6 b本书讨论了纤维、纱线与织物(包括机织物、针织物及非织造布)的结构、机械性能、物理性能及使用性能。涉及的纤维势括天然纤维(如棉、毛、麻、丝等)、传统化学纤维及新型化学纤维。本书同时介绍了纤维、纱线和织物的各种标准测试方法(包括国际上常用的ASTM, AATCC及GB等方法),并讨论了与各种测试方法有关的测试原理及对测试结果的影响因素。# e% y& q$ p$ {6 P: o9 x' q/ b
本书可供高等纺织院校纺织、服装相关专业的本科生及研究生作为《纺织材料学》的双语教材或专业英语教材,也可供其他专业师生、纺织贸易专业人员和科研及生产单位的技术人员参考。
$ G e8 k+ R- s5 H6 a* O! a( x目录
5 d0 h/ w! K \, IPart Ⅰ An Introduction to Textiles/纺织入门 18
3 d% c5 L: ], U1 b Chapter 1 Introduction/介绍 185 q' L* z, i# j* U
1.1 ASTM Standard Terminology Relating to Textiles/ASTM纺织标准术语 18
4 a' e. n7 i$ [/ a5 M$ e 1.2 Fiber history/纤维历史 26
% v2 Q" Z0 o0 q/ b8 i, ?4 ^ 1.2.1 Natural fibers/天然纤维 26& N& u+ e. E' t
1.2.2 Man-made fibers/化学纤维 27! D3 W, T# m! e. y5 y3 L9 J
Questions/思考题 309 Q( j3 B5 i( d% ?% z2 i3 q
Part Ⅱ Textile Fibers/纺织纤维 32
+ t7 ~" p$ ?+ Z# ~# B* m, {, v Chapter 2 Natural Cellulosic Fibers/天然纤维素纤维 32
. C3 H0 c" N& F; j3 c# ?9 E 2.1 Cotton/棉 33
k' g+ C6 q$ G* K N! | 2.1.1 Nature of cotton/棉花的种类 33. ^/ u! Z3 v" n) y" P" O" |
2.1.2 Classification/分类 34, G: A. y+ s. F1 X( s
2.1.3 Growth and structure of cotton/棉纤维的生长与结构 34
. R/ Z7 j. b0 O3 T- w 2.1.4 Maturity/成熟度 36
& z2 }* l6 Z- B% o. a- o0 h; N, I 2.1.5 Cotton properties/棉纤维的性能 38: ~3 J: _% n2 B" N& v1 u
2.1.6 Cotton classification/棉花分级 395 ?: {! X6 v, j' [: x! T
2.2 Bast fibers/韧皮纤维 40) n) u8 D+ _) ]/ w* @7 X4 @
2.2.1 Flax (linen)/亚麻,亚麻织物 41
7 f6 S* T& I0 F$ M, \ 2.2.2 Ramie/苎麻 438 l5 [* `5 t( i; b
2.2.3 Hemp/汉麻 443 W3 o8 E1 G4 G8 z, t+ p% W
2.2.4 Jute/黄麻 44
' l$ ^# C: f. r Questions/思考题 45) P6 u7 z& Z. \2 u) o( m4 p8 q0 T
Chapter 3 Natural Protein Fibers/天然蛋白质纤维 46
: a4 U0 {4 ~" C. q j6 H% O; X# I 3.1 Wool/绵羊毛 461 y P7 o3 H' u8 ]% b" y. m, {# Y+ {
3.1.1 Wool production and history/羊毛生产和历史 46
; k6 l* h0 e ~ w4 H- \4 H 3.1.2 Wool grading/羊毛分级 47
" A, y0 T! B1 D& I! A5 G 3.1.3 Wool structure/羊毛结构 47( S! q9 s" D# f/ t! p
3.1.4 Wool properties/羊毛性能 48( ]/ M: w0 d, c+ W
3.2 Specialty animal fibers/特种动物毛 51
. i# D' g% N+ A3 x c# ? 3.3 Silk/丝 52
( Z) D$ L6 {! A7 d; f9 X Questions/思考题 54+ h# a$ P$ s# X* D
Chapter 4 Man-made Fibers/化学纤维 55: y+ u6 ^; W7 c* [+ o* [! g
4.1 Manufacturing processing of fiber/纤维生产工艺 55) `( g. J: k( f2 l O7 N6 i
4.1.1 Wet spinning/湿法纺丝 56
: E" [9 H" [& P4 ` 4.1.2 Dry spinning/干法纺丝 56/ t9 L# Q6 Q# c! ~
4.1.3 Melt spinning/熔体法纺丝 56
+ c P) z' [) w5 X1 O7 j# I3 G1 e 4.1.4 Gel spinning/凝胶纺丝 570 P! W) j# O5 K- Y% O
4.2 Regenerated fibers/再生纤维 578 o2 p1 W9 i$ \* e0 S) n" @' e
4.2.1 Acetate/醋酯纤维 57- Z0 {0 K( y' m+ l0 E
4.2.2 Triacetate/三醋酯纤维 59
3 t8 n7 [2 e$ l" g8 Z5 M; v4 f) x 4.2.3 Viscose fibers/粘胶纤维 593 K" L% Q9 y: |; M
4.3 Synthetic fibers/合成纤维 603 c9 A' \7 `# G, ~. X4 B% \: |
4.3.1 Acrylic/腈纶 60
$ C6 v/ N B# X+ N0 ^- {# H 4.3.2 Modacrylic/改性腈纶 61
% G8 \+ z& s4 G' P4 @- w 4.3.3 Nylon/锦纶 61
8 E7 X/ Z% _* ~( ^2 U 4.3.4 Polyester/涤纶 62/ p: s# c2 R1 v
4.3.5 PBI/聚苯并咪唑纤维 63! s' m0 f( X5 Z+ [. J1 R
4.3.6 Vinal/聚乙烯醇纤维 639 ?' f) B. H0 x2 m0 y0 r5 ^5 G
4.3.7 Olefin/聚烯烃纤维 636 }4 a% x; E4 V8 i, s
4.3.8 Aramid/芳纶 64; Y9 t0 _ k! ^/ s
4.3.9 Lycra/莱卡 64
* N' J- F6 n) v" {0 | 4.4 Other man-made fibers/其他化学纤维 66
& o) c$ M+ o) v7 N b 4.4.1 Glass/玻璃纤维 66
0 Y7 N" J k. S8 q 4.4.2 Metallic/金属纤维 67
/ [9 [( m! v# }! Y9 S Questions/思考题 672 y. q5 A! t( l
Chapter 5 New Fibers/新型纤维 68
$ }+ d- U* f# C! h 5.1 Carbon fibers/碳纤维 68
4 N8 ~; f* f' H 5.2 Fluorocarbon/氟碳纤维 68
3 }& S# T2 L6 B# d- G5 k 5.3 Lyocell fibers(Tencel)/莱塞尔纤维 68) I' m1 a H6 ]
5.4 High-wet-modulus fibers/高湿模量纤维 69, U- r" D3 t: g$ y, ?4 H
5.4.1 Modal fibers/莫代尔纤维 69
J* ~6 ?' M+ @8 U; o1 M: T& ? 5.4.2 Richcel/丽赛纤维 70" _; o$ T+ z' o' J' S1 W
5.5 Soybean protein composite fibers/大豆蛋白复合纤维 70
. b& U* A5 H: `# }+ ~/ M9 p 5.6 PLA fiber/聚左旋乳酸纤维 71
' ~4 \8 [+ A; c 5.7 Heterogenous fibers/复合纤维 71
- ]2 O$ O) H8 x# G 5.7.1 Bicomponent or multicomponent/双组分或多组分 72+ v% C: I" s( u- v$ @
5.7.2 Biconstituent or multiconstituent/双成分或多成分 73
0 _3 }" d( P* I1 B 5.7.3 Matrix or matrix-fibril/基质型纤维 73
3 W T" @. O# e( O5 u 5.8 Differential fibers/差别化纤维 74( h5 ]( G+ d0 G
5.9 Functional fibers/功能性纤维 74
' f) x2 F" p9 b, u 5.10 High performance fibers/高性能纤维 74* X0 b0 a$ |) B7 t8 v6 u5 h
Questions/思考题 74; s# r4 u" l' j0 \4 h- q
Chapter 6 The Property of Absorbing Moisture/吸湿性 75
3 Y: H6 x6 _+ y- S 6.1 Orientation and crystallization/取向与结晶 75 e4 r4 v, i6 u8 h8 [6 e# T
6.2 Moisture sorption/吸湿性 75
# m8 _( p1 _2 U9 r* O 6.2.1 Regain and moisture content/回潮率与含水率 75/ j& z3 V6 A. i& E
6.2.2 Relation between regain and relative humidity/回潮率与相对湿度的关系 75
& R+ P# } \+ M z; R; l 6.2.3 Comparison of various materials/不同材料吸湿性的对比 768 C8 u, ~/ G5 n9 y9 L
6.2.4 Theories of moisture sorption/吸湿理论 78# i- \; I1 [' [# }/ ^; W9 I5 X
Questions/思考题 801 k8 s: J! a" _% b4 M/ y$ B
Chapter 7 Other Physical Properties of Textile Fibers/纤维的其他物理性能 81# p* a! D# Y, L
7.1 Electronic properties/电学性能 81
& U, x# y; X% i( t8 @ 7.1.1 Definitions/定义 81
" y6 p8 I# o) }1 ` 7.2 Optical properties/光学性能 822 k& B, V& U6 h# O) ]" f6 {
7.3 Thermal properties/热学性能 83
( m! C0 Q7 K, `6 |+ `! ~# B% T# o( r 7.3.1 Thermal parameters/热力学参数 83- n7 A* H6 Y3 A# _9 H+ @3 m
7.3.2 A comparison of temperature effects/温度效应比较 833 p9 L! R, D, i5 P" Y
Questions/思考题 839 i6 R* D: n% z$ f) I4 N& G
Part Ⅲ Textile Yarns/纺织纱线 84, l) b7 u) J- W0 ~/ s! j
Chapter 8 Yarn Processing and Construction/纱线制造与结构 84
2 K4 C) N. x8 G& V* a+ [3 y 8.1 Spun yarns/短纤纱 85
3 F9 A+ }9 m& B9 ?. b) H 8.2 Filament yarns/长丝纱 85
% f F; r# ]+ n* Z 8.3 Methods of yarn processing/纺纱方法 85* C+ t+ e& `8 n& D" C7 i- T
8.3.1 Ring-spinning/环锭纺 866 Q Z# N' m8 e( J. _$ t
8.3.2 New methods of yarn processing/新型纺纱方法 86! V3 |. N1 d: m/ p( x" u3 C& ~' @
8.4 Single and ply yarns/单纱和股线 89- z3 t, [ T$ o
8.5 Special types of yarn/特种纱线 90
2 i* v# c$ B- n, ~ 8.5.1 Fancy yarns/花式纱 90
9 j* G0 _8 N! M$ K 8.5.2 Stretch yarns/弹力纱 91. {* ^. T" Z! `
8.5.3 Textured yarns 变形纱线 91
$ F, h" G" t- G, x0 X; N( W1 V 8.6 Blends and mixtures yarns/纱线混纺与混用 929 e6 K6 j) A S7 a7 j
Questions/思考题 93
3 ^7 M( o' ?7 X# o9 ^ Chapter 9 Yarn Properties/纱线性能 94( b T$ p3 U9 |2 z, J
9.1 Yarn number/纱线细度 94
/ S w0 M" W; a4 j4 o; b; l 9.1.1 Denier system/旦数 94
Q# E* j' F! Z5 V2 p6 z4 Q 9.1.2 Yarn count system/纱线英制支数 94* i* u5 I( S$ A X9 r- _, j1 @0 P
9.1.3 Tex system/线密度 95
- g7 w. ?5 [2 v8 X8 H8 S 9.1.4 Metric numbering system/公制支数 95* C+ R4 ~& C; O2 W6 w
9.1.5 Conversion in different systems/不同系统之间的换算 95' ~4 {! n5 A2 Q6 F4 y5 S7 G! d) u
9.2 Ply yarn counts and singles equivalent/股线支数与单纱支数 956 Y" B7 w/ M: p. V+ G6 n
9.3 Yarn twist/纱线捻度 96+ p+ f8 v( r: l
9.4 Yarn hairiness/纱线毛羽 97
. }) V) ?. k6 A$ j 9.4.1 Hairiness test method/毛羽测试方法 98; W/ T8 k1 S1 @8 R+ [
9.4.2 Factors affecting hairiness/影响毛羽的因素 98
0 ^2 i4 s" j% X( Z! [ 9.5 Yarn unevenness/纱线不匀 99
: q" N; E' c* k: g 9.5.1 Test of yarn unevenness/纱线不匀的测试 998 V. y. ]0 u( a, n. E
9.5.2 Reasons for yarn unevenness/纱线不匀的原因 100% Z3 y( c8 h& v7 Z& g
9.6 Classification of yarn quality/纱线质量分析 100! s+ @7 J" k0 c& L( C b8 A
Questions/思考题 100/ z2 J2 I6 U- t0 e! G$ ?5 t# X
Part Ⅳ Textile Fabrics/织物 1026 r4 N. g' q$ `6 N0 Y" r+ t
Chapter 10 Woven Fabrics/机织物 102
$ K. C( V# U. ~" Q, G1 I% I3 w 10.1 Making woven fabrics/织制机织物 1027 n+ f& F+ `# ~3 I2 s
10.1.1 The loom/织机 102
/ F+ R2 J4 t @5 N4 h 10.1.2 Loom type/织机类型 104# c, y9 W* f, d
10.1.3 Loom motions/织机运动 1042 o$ m4 M9 e3 t" A+ Y' ]& r5 E
10.1.4 Electronics in weaving/电子技术在织机中的应用 1055 E# p* G7 }6 R; I/ L, ?
10.1.5 The selvage/布边 105' d6 Z' d1 L3 [- J& r( q
10.2 Warp yarns and filling yarns/经纱和纬纱 1055 Y; t- Q( D& G4 n
10.2.1 Identification/鉴别 106 u k) [% q8 {- M- w/ u
10.3 Face and back/正面与反面 106
/ D) c' R5 `6 A6 w7 {! ` 10.3.1 Reasons for differenee/存在差异的原因 1079 c$ R4 E; Z$ t7 a
10.3.2 Caution/应用的要点 107, \; [7 A: y4 o5 n5 {
10.4 Top and bottom/顶端和底端 107! u& N# w' z. a
10.4.1 Reasons for difference/存在差异的原因 107
; f! ?9 B' K4 Y 10.5 Weave floats/组织浮线 108; K5 Q5 q. f5 _. R: A6 g: V& G6 K
10.6 Basic weaves/基本组织 108
) Y" m- F6 A+ ]! i* k# b# j C 10.6.1 Plain weave/平纹组织 108
5 }' ? t- ~- y4 Z( r$ l* m 10.6.2 Twill weave/斜纹组织 109
2 }7 B- B8 b3 ]; u4 r( c 10.6.3 Satin weave/缎纹组织 111' z$ f+ Q' x. G% H. ^
10.7 Fabric performance and characteristics/织物性能和参数 112" C/ o/ c! K( o" O. ]
10.7.1 Fabric width/幅宽 112
c. D( ^4 a& |* q 10.7.2 Fabric weight/织物重量 112
2 t1 g Y: a6 s6 B+ Y6 W 10.7.3 Fabric thickness/织物厚度 113
$ u. b$ L# w3 f 10.7.4 Fabric density/织物密度 113) I9 Z+ A8 d! M+ s2 i
10.7.5 Fabric count/织物经纬密度 1136 S0 O x4 k9 x b/ T! f, F
10.7.6 Fabric defects/织物疵点 113
$ g' d" X4 w8 Q- i7 d Questions/思考题 1135 i' |2 i) Y$ ]; t
Chapter 11 Knitted Fabrics/针织物 114
2 a" c( y# Z* v3 {% F. T 11.1 Making of knitted fabric/针织物形成 114( i0 d. X& [; i c" i
11.1.1 The forming of knitted stitches/线圈的形成 114) o" i- q% n- Y8 k6 P; ]( N) [
11.1.2 Types of knitted stitches/线圈的种类 116
4 _& W% C' e8 S" a0 x- Z! X 11.2 Weft knits/纬编针织物 1176 |6 z+ f+ P* H2 f7 z3 ^
11.2.1 Jersey knit fabric/纬平针织物 117
6 |. h% t0 B9 R; V 11.2.2 Rib knit fabric/罗纹针织物 118
9 Q% [2 s" S* c+ Q 11.2.3 Purl knit fabric/双反面针织物 119
, h1 U' Z) `2 n, } 11.2.4 Double knits/双面针织物 120, q# F/ ^0 }4 e& e: U
11.2.5 Full-fashioned knits/全成形针织物 1200 y: Y. v) x" E" I( Y" e
11.3 Warp knits/经编针织物 1213 s$ M" Y6 H/ m$ w5 c
11.3.1 Tricot fabrics/特里科经编针织物 121
( q' r- g; J4 `7 X: J* Z# }6 E 11.3.2 Raschel fabrics/拉舍尔经编针织物 122
* w3 ~- G5 }9 o* c. O- g) X& X 11.4 Performance and characteristics/性能和参数 122. w' W; I9 [. R1 j* J
Questions/思考题 123$ E+ Q, z2 }& E Y, x
Chapter 12 Nonwoven Fabrics/非织造布 124
5 p3 Y8 Q' ?7 ^# V# R 12.1 Introduction/导论 124
9 b5 v7 s1 `. a9 T, Y9 t 12.2 Manufacturing methods/生产方法 125; T3 D1 n" J# |/ W8 W
12.2.1 Dry laid system/干法成网 125
& s$ q1 g- S! ~$ R m: I 12.2.2 Wet laid system/湿法成网 125
F+ C8 D5 D$ A! w3 F 12.2.3 Polymer laid system/聚合物挤压法 125
: t6 t' r9 S$ H+ N 12.3 Various nonwovens/各种非织造布 125
9 l A. D& z) b1 i' D& F 12.3.1 Needle punched nonwovens/针刺法非织造布 125; h5 ]5 r8 F7 N+ H) d
12.3.2 Bonded web nonwovens/黏合法非织造布 1267 C' W' k+ t$ L! h& }1 @7 Z/ w
12.3.3 Spunlaced nonwovens/射流喷网法非织造布 127" @- \4 U' L; Y$ F0 G1 {' K
12.3.4 Spunbonded nonwovens/纺粘法非织造布 128
; h6 t: O) h% o6 P9 q8 m# X8 U 12.3.5 Melt-blown nonwovens/熔喷法非织造布 129- t: f- R g5 [! {6 @9 o# _/ u
Questions/思考题 129' R. W3 _! Z# m N0 k) a9 |
Part Ⅴ Textile Testing/纺织品测试 1303 w" U8 k- M# \5 e' U& N7 A
Chapter 13 General Test Methods/常规测试方法 1309 B% v1 d4 L% R5 v* k. h
13.1 General fiber tests/纤维常规测试 130
# l X& u; M( c: R+ J 13.1.1 Fiber identification/纤维鉴别 130: p7 Q1 G1 r f7 E5 i# u
13.1.2 Fiber length/纤维长度 134; a0 g) o+ \# q5 ^/ u
13.1.3 Fiber fineness or linear density/纤维细度或线密度 135
6 x% n- L% j: B' Y3 m( R# E 13.1.4 Cross-sectional shape/截面形状 135
) V/ \# J6 |$ O. I; B. d( `4 f 13.1.5 Crimp/卷曲 135
# P0 o8 _& h: E7 ?) D; P! n8 b 13.1.6 Regain/回潮率 136
' @- f2 p7 v$ b5 D 13.1.7 Mechanical properties/机械性能 136& _$ s0 J, q8 x* u0 g' Q8 K# J5 r+ S# E
13.1.8 Chemical characteristics/化学性能 1364 s+ @7 Z' M) L& k1 `' {
13.1.9 Surface characteristics/表面性能 136
, D, C6 t$ K- P/ [# ] 13.1.10 Density and specific gravity/密度和相对密度 1374 }* h- p8 m4 L0 d
13.2 Special tests for natural fibers/天然纤维的测试 137
, T& i- f9 F+ P8 A; v2 A( A8 o! @ 13.2.1 Tests for cotton/棉纤维测试 137: U( ~3 T) H$ n' E2 [
13.2.2 Tests for wool/毛纤维测试 139
) e A7 j* G& I" I7 q7 B 13.3 Testing of tensile properties/拉伸性能测试 1401 I& h4 i2 N; I; ~3 I$ y9 N
13.3.1 Description of tensile proprieties/拉伸性能的描述 141
$ e* O% `; {% Y- ?; Q3 A 13.3.2 Fiber and yarn tensile testing/纤维和纱线拉伸性能的测试 146
1 s0 |( Z) K# ~ 13.3.3 Fabric tensile testing/织物拉伸性能测试方法 147! q0 o8 K1 C+ j& q- F& a
Questions/思考题 149
& @9 e% k9 V: n- k6 x Chapter 14 Fabric Abrasion and Pilling/织物磨损与起球 150' ?# j9 H" H4 \' b7 f" ~' s# R- t
14.1 Types of abrasion/磨损的类型 150$ X3 U7 D! W$ _1 {3 ?' R- i, u
14.1.1 Abrasion between fabrics/织物间的磨损 150
) d0 Y' a- _7 R7 y0 u6 c 14.1.2 Abrasion between fabric and a nontextile surface/织物与非纤维制品表面磨损 1503 W4 ~% @3 U; y* m1 a; D
14.1.3 Abrasion within fabric/织物内部磨损 151
$ O8 e. e/ D2 t6 R* v- a! ~, v9 ` 14.1.4 Abrasion by foreign materials within the fabric/与织物内部其他材料的磨损 151
`( }. F% _% x" b" `6 e 14.2 Factors affecting fabric abrasion resistance/影响耐磨性能的因素 151
1 W: f. S% B+ f, X/ M3 @3 e 14.2.1 Fabric properties/织物性能 151
u/ h4 ?4 Q2 x7 Y3 [# @+ } 14.2.2 Other factors/其他因素 153& \ i$ e+ d' T- G
14.3 Abrasion testing/磨损测试 154
1 c' f1 M4 d+ i% g 14.3.1 Visual comparison with an unabraded specimen/与未磨损样品视觉对比 154
P8 a5 I# Z$ d# R4 J' t7 v 14.3.2 Number of cycles to produce a hole/产生磨损破洞需要的摩擦圈数 1548 m: n! y( i& w
14.3.3 Change in a physical property/物理性能的变化 1541 |* U( c% G% r+ e& L/ V# @4 G
14.3.4 Microscopic examination/显微镜观测 155
+ v& Q, g9 ~% c0 W$ g' i 14.4 Aesthetics of abrasion and wear/穿着和磨损对美感的影响 155
8 v& `) _' J2 n1 z 14.4.1 Color changes caused by abrasion/磨损引起的颜色变化 155
3 V: v/ [9 h" l3 d0 B 14.4.2 Pilling/起球 156
: q% U4 t% t- H0 J' L Questions/思考题 1576 E- p* b- v6 s& F8 k+ n
Chapter 15 Fabric Hand and Drape/织物手感与悬垂 158" _: [4 x! Q- i3 ^$ ?
15.1 Fabric hand/织物手感 158
8 y" Q! V2 W8 O/ ?+ V9 R( ]! k 15.2 Fabric drape/织物悬垂 159
, |# N i+ z6 Z3 f5 D' G" i 15.3 Measurement of hand and drape/手感与悬垂的评价 161# }: K, m& S% O: U$ L8 N6 ~9 [; s
15.3.1 Subjective evaluation/主观评定法 161
9 ^9 C7 E2 G2 t/ I0 A 15.3.2 Quantitative measurement/定量评定法 162
' Q* J* ?# k' z( r7 [ 15.3.3 Kawabata evaluation system/KES评定法 163* Y# A: Q6 z( O$ a' F( C9 c- O5 u
Questions/思考题 163) V- u$ P: o" \5 x N% T X/ {
Chapter 16 Fabric Colorfastness/织物染色牢度 164
( d0 g6 V1 b$ f; ~. s' @8 p1 r 16.1 Evaluation of color and colorfastness/颜色和染色牢度评定方法 164. x0 C# N) }3 \6 g0 |8 h* w4 d
16.2 Colorfastness tests/染色牢度测试 164
" k2 h; q. U _. C 16.2.1 Colorfastness to crocking/耐摩擦色牢度 164
V! m8 G$ U* c; m3 ]7 f- t 16.2.2 Colorfastness to laundering and bleaching/耐洗涤和耐漂白色牢 165
2 ], l! m: s( ^# y' k$ Q1 ~ 16.2.3 Colorfastness to drycleaning/耐干洗色牢度 166) x1 N+ X( r; E5 W: }
16.2.4 Colorfastness to perspiration/耐汗渍色牢度 166+ Q7 J8 U7 ], N2 d& t( j1 m8 s
16.2.5 Colorfastness to water/耐水浸色牢度 166
$ A- j l Y$ j/ F1 ?; z) H; G 16.2.6 Colorfastness to light/耐光照色牢度 167+ M- U2 x5 P f8 V7 q
16.2.7 Colorfastness to atmospheric contaminants/耐空气污染色牢度 168( Y* a+ ]1 Z0 t; S
Questions/思考题 168$ ]4 |: K, E, m5 v8 K# q
Chapter 17 Fabric Flammability/织物可燃性 169" n& G+ B8 i+ t* G+ L+ ~
17.1 Flammability standards/可燃性标准 169% I3 M: e- e R7 [. ?; X7 z$ |4 h
17.2 Properties affecting flammability/影响可燃性的因素 1694 V8 N4 n1 ]* k4 S1 P; {. A# }
17.3 Flammability testing/可燃性测试 171' m" k. K- C* C9 B) @+ E
17.3.1 Forty-five degree angle test/45°燃烧测试法 171
, e( j, }" ]1 ~ 17.3.2 Vertical flame tests/垂直燃烧测试法 1721 d) t0 u0 E, ]+ G M
17.3.3 Carpet testing/地毯测试 172
4 T# ]5 V" G* o! l! ~6 V 17.3.4 Cigarette tests/卷烟点燃测试 1725 p1 r# {; ]; p4 n" q) |2 V
17.3.5 Other standard flammability tests/其他可燃性测试 173
+ L! C6 L, X2 k1 O/ u2 O' p/ ] Questions/思考题 173/ y, L. w# u& T5 ]- d& J
Chapter 18 Comfort of Textiles/纺织品舒适性 174
/ O9 P) @: z3 x9 t P6 A 18.1 Physical phenomena affecting thermal comfort/影响热舒适性能的物理现象 1745 O o6 ~3 o$ H
18.1.1 Heat transfer/热传递 174# Y% s" e3 W; E+ S8 c; u4 G
18.1.2 Moisture transfer/湿传递 175
9 t: ]9 N1 E& Q9 ~! G+ `8 U0 y: c 18.1.3 Water resistance/抗水性 175. `$ J/ ^) v, M. F" U* ~+ P
18.1.4 Air transfer/透气性 176
+ D. n. A7 a* p; E7 z8 B- X! v. c" e 18.1.5 Porosity and cover factor/多孔性和覆盖系数 176# q. |% v+ M6 P7 l! S7 Y' P ]
18.1.6 Electrostatic propensity/静电 177
1 Q& f- u: j+ m$ N7 B 18.2 Evaluations of textile properties related to comfort/与舒适性相关的纺织品性能评价 177
& G3 Y z6 g3 ]; D8 Z X0 T 18.2.1 Heat transfer/热传递 178) C3 i1 }& D; ?) |
18.2.2 Moisture properties/湿传递性能 179
4 |5 J) q' ]6 |0 `; x$ J) K 18.2.3 Air permeability/透气性 179
3 n% ?* b/ E! } 18.2.4 Porosity/孔隙率 1804 A7 \+ S, @, E1 E! P5 s- Q' z9 O! H
18.2.5 Electrostatic tests/静电测试 180
$ h5 F/ k$ r2 K- c Questions/思考题 180* D: v( b, n1 m* Z0 z! g$ B
Appendix/附录 181
" t) M* E9 ?/ m3 M AATCC:AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS/美国纺织化学家与染色家协会 181
6 j! S3 F$ l" l ASTM:AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR TESTING AND MATERIALS/美国材料试验学会 184& K) T4 P; t7 z$ |$ T# b; R" Q
Vocabulary/词汇表 189
% M0 ?6 Y7 y9 r+ o; t/ fReferences/参考文献 197
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