
纺织材料学(双语教材),刘妍,熊磊,PDF。普通高等教育“十一五”国家级规划教材(本科),纺织工程专业双语教材,电子目录,14M。1 C- Z/ @3 M1 n$ b
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内容提要; T) {4 D' k: V
本书讨论了纤维、纱线与织物(包括机织物、针织物及非织造布)的结构、机械性能、物理性能及使用性能。涉及的纤维势括天然纤维(如棉、毛、麻、丝等)、传统化学纤维及新型化学纤维。本书同时介绍了纤维、纱线和织物的各种标准测试方法(包括国际上常用的ASTM, AATCC及GB等方法),并讨论了与各种测试方法有关的测试原理及对测试结果的影响因素。
3 K$ Q( E7 G2 R5 Y$ I: m8 |本书可供高等纺织院校纺织、服装相关专业的本科生及研究生作为《纺织材料学》的双语教材或专业英语教材,也可供其他专业师生、纺织贸易专业人员和科研及生产单位的技术人员参考。
* k9 d- F$ }/ u目录
! C2 r" T0 A- @Part Ⅰ An Introduction to Textiles/纺织入门 18
, E. J' q f) \# V; I* {3 C Chapter 1 Introduction/介绍 18
( I2 f+ I$ N8 O) ~, e8 A* }6 s' I 1.1 ASTM Standard Terminology Relating to Textiles/ASTM纺织标准术语 18
: [: K3 x0 H t' G 1.2 Fiber history/纤维历史 26
7 z% q; H6 A% a: E v( L 1.2.1 Natural fibers/天然纤维 261 ]8 M( q( n# s9 v {
1.2.2 Man-made fibers/化学纤维 271 T$ R2 N; N5 [9 N' r! ~2 \
Questions/思考题 30
# D9 Q' B1 t# r+ `* Z! }) l: xPart Ⅱ Textile Fibers/纺织纤维 32$ i6 r6 g( x! f; _. M; M% }3 \: t" }
Chapter 2 Natural Cellulosic Fibers/天然纤维素纤维 32
9 m& R$ V r" _* @: }+ W9 Z 2.1 Cotton/棉 33
. y2 \+ f# h9 ~0 ? 2.1.1 Nature of cotton/棉花的种类 33
( M* j* f9 P' x# e) f# q 2.1.2 Classification/分类 34) ^. ~3 Q% Q! R' t2 D/ m
2.1.3 Growth and structure of cotton/棉纤维的生长与结构 34
! k& x. _1 J; `; _, a; M 2.1.4 Maturity/成熟度 36
9 I+ |8 q1 n4 _" i8 A9 c1 O, P 2.1.5 Cotton properties/棉纤维的性能 38( M: f) u7 E @3 E
2.1.6 Cotton classification/棉花分级 39! q! e4 V+ x1 t1 d; p$ I
2.2 Bast fibers/韧皮纤维 407 D% R" J& F* i% c
2.2.1 Flax (linen)/亚麻,亚麻织物 41
: |. w: K) ^$ N 2.2.2 Ramie/苎麻 43
( J5 a) Q) l: U" S% O; Q1 y% B 2.2.3 Hemp/汉麻 44; M! N+ h! X$ k3 }/ G
2.2.4 Jute/黄麻 444 I% D9 E8 `5 p6 a
Questions/思考题 45
. E3 h6 `( Y8 ^5 {; f1 K Chapter 3 Natural Protein Fibers/天然蛋白质纤维 46
' M( V8 A n% I* ^8 y 3.1 Wool/绵羊毛 46# v# b1 d3 K8 Y+ {8 S. o! w
3.1.1 Wool production and history/羊毛生产和历史 46
7 E3 v+ e) ?. q) i, N) | 3.1.2 Wool grading/羊毛分级 47
6 O) }9 ~2 h5 p* [/ H 3.1.3 Wool structure/羊毛结构 47
5 y( s" [% L9 Q/ ]- B& p 3.1.4 Wool properties/羊毛性能 48
0 J% T7 a" y+ a# e Z o0 w% l 3.2 Specialty animal fibers/特种动物毛 51) e V, {; d6 |7 r0 c% L
3.3 Silk/丝 52
2 m( h o2 h4 N, [$ j3 N Questions/思考题 54
0 w, Y6 _$ Q& M0 p Chapter 4 Man-made Fibers/化学纤维 55# v, w6 m& c5 B7 D8 D
4.1 Manufacturing processing of fiber/纤维生产工艺 55+ q& w; F" h9 h! D" s- G" G& d. E1 X
4.1.1 Wet spinning/湿法纺丝 56, ^6 d- L- D( r5 b. F1 h) e$ C0 f
4.1.2 Dry spinning/干法纺丝 56& J5 M" S8 u9 O9 ^, z
4.1.3 Melt spinning/熔体法纺丝 56& V& Z4 a/ }/ {! {; }" j
4.1.4 Gel spinning/凝胶纺丝 57+ ?, V6 I( |2 I; I! K
4.2 Regenerated fibers/再生纤维 57
) X, B0 k) T4 ~9 u! f+ e! h 4.2.1 Acetate/醋酯纤维 579 u F0 T! G- M. y/ L5 c% v
4.2.2 Triacetate/三醋酯纤维 59
6 T& c* ^/ T4 A3 ?5 V 4.2.3 Viscose fibers/粘胶纤维 599 S+ n3 D9 T3 ^3 y# }# Q& B& b
4.3 Synthetic fibers/合成纤维 60) `6 ]# q1 f6 J1 O- m
4.3.1 Acrylic/腈纶 60. A! q; v+ S+ v: S1 I5 q9 Y
4.3.2 Modacrylic/改性腈纶 61
5 b5 ~) ~+ t( u$ Z. Q 4.3.3 Nylon/锦纶 61
1 ]3 X" Y- `) ^! @ 4.3.4 Polyester/涤纶 62+ O/ I2 C1 X$ }; L) S. E' d
4.3.5 PBI/聚苯并咪唑纤维 63
& v4 t$ v1 |$ Z+ _% F1 J6 Y* s 4.3.6 Vinal/聚乙烯醇纤维 63# v( |: }% G" Q3 G6 ?) w- k
4.3.7 Olefin/聚烯烃纤维 638 A. D; \' f) K" x: s' |6 u
4.3.8 Aramid/芳纶 64# g4 _% _5 l* v! I
4.3.9 Lycra/莱卡 64. G& ]7 E- _1 X8 P; @, y2 N$ f9 _1 m
4.4 Other man-made fibers/其他化学纤维 668 R D- }/ {- w
4.4.1 Glass/玻璃纤维 667 C0 p# N6 n2 Q) q- t
4.4.2 Metallic/金属纤维 67
1 H( ]/ g; {' [! {% s& N Questions/思考题 67. `% G; A7 l2 `
Chapter 5 New Fibers/新型纤维 68- I4 p1 u& {9 Y" V5 R
5.1 Carbon fibers/碳纤维 68
& v* o o4 F9 d" v2 R 5.2 Fluorocarbon/氟碳纤维 68, l9 J |; x8 A4 l$ W# }
5.3 Lyocell fibers(Tencel)/莱塞尔纤维 68
. P1 r2 g4 _& |' }9 d 5.4 High-wet-modulus fibers/高湿模量纤维 69% A% y$ O f' \7 s5 v4 P
5.4.1 Modal fibers/莫代尔纤维 69% X$ `% A: v% E S; j& G
5.4.2 Richcel/丽赛纤维 70
6 l) {- B+ |1 d2 \0 P* m% O, U 5.5 Soybean protein composite fibers/大豆蛋白复合纤维 70/ \6 H, i4 W- O6 M
5.6 PLA fiber/聚左旋乳酸纤维 71
2 P0 C5 Z1 S* r! L; P 5.7 Heterogenous fibers/复合纤维 71# V5 ?& S" z, P" B
5.7.1 Bicomponent or multicomponent/双组分或多组分 72
u+ m R8 h% \' b" ] 5.7.2 Biconstituent or multiconstituent/双成分或多成分 73
3 c9 n* P% y5 B4 B 5.7.3 Matrix or matrix-fibril/基质型纤维 73# m t* J! z( d* @
5.8 Differential fibers/差别化纤维 74% ], A% m; v$ h
5.9 Functional fibers/功能性纤维 74( b4 w# ]3 |7 M2 ?5 }" }
5.10 High performance fibers/高性能纤维 74
9 W+ h# j2 I& W# e7 j5 k* } Questions/思考题 745 c+ m8 `: I7 Z* H
Chapter 6 The Property of Absorbing Moisture/吸湿性 75' O7 z) u* f% ]7 b$ \' e
6.1 Orientation and crystallization/取向与结晶 75
9 W* n r6 x$ w$ n: m 6.2 Moisture sorption/吸湿性 758 s' _) B: E6 l; d1 x9 w1 ^
6.2.1 Regain and moisture content/回潮率与含水率 75
2 L2 x9 {3 X4 v/ T: Q 6.2.2 Relation between regain and relative humidity/回潮率与相对湿度的关系 75
8 e6 I* R% @0 i$ F; {7 G 6.2.3 Comparison of various materials/不同材料吸湿性的对比 76
/ k! H3 n+ O# T0 }3 v7 }3 } 6.2.4 Theories of moisture sorption/吸湿理论 78: D D2 v7 g# s+ T
Questions/思考题 80
; u8 j& |4 q; z; n& w8 W$ Q: e _, f Chapter 7 Other Physical Properties of Textile Fibers/纤维的其他物理性能 810 H) h; b6 c8 N9 X4 r7 s. g% P
7.1 Electronic properties/电学性能 81
4 |+ x8 B! [7 _& R! u 7.1.1 Definitions/定义 81
( N4 @5 X7 Y% {& I 7.2 Optical properties/光学性能 82
% c- Q# s9 c# B' a 7.3 Thermal properties/热学性能 83
% Q( R/ D6 f" J; d" x" | 7.3.1 Thermal parameters/热力学参数 83
$ O* y$ Z' c, b1 I' F8 \ 7.3.2 A comparison of temperature effects/温度效应比较 83
* ]+ L: u) _5 s Questions/思考题 83( ?0 B$ X9 C6 ^+ j. |
Part Ⅲ Textile Yarns/纺织纱线 84
) M# E% v4 {7 f3 K* j( }. T Chapter 8 Yarn Processing and Construction/纱线制造与结构 84
- v- d( x* f9 R6 a- ^ 8.1 Spun yarns/短纤纱 85+ \* l4 p8 x! o3 Y" R& g. y( s' _
8.2 Filament yarns/长丝纱 85
: q! V: N; t6 s% h' Y! R$ r3 @ 8.3 Methods of yarn processing/纺纱方法 85, q z; P: ?- @
8.3.1 Ring-spinning/环锭纺 864 n' ~4 l$ I8 a9 c P. @
8.3.2 New methods of yarn processing/新型纺纱方法 866 ]2 d" R8 S8 l, {; p* P3 l5 W
8.4 Single and ply yarns/单纱和股线 89% W0 J4 C4 m: X4 N& d7 V: n
8.5 Special types of yarn/特种纱线 90
( E' [: D0 z3 b, ], w 8.5.1 Fancy yarns/花式纱 90
9 l! u/ ]/ f, G) }/ K' I4 P4 Z 8.5.2 Stretch yarns/弹力纱 91$ w6 d. u7 v9 Q1 `+ u7 _
8.5.3 Textured yarns 变形纱线 91
: T3 y/ \3 {2 r9 t5 \ 8.6 Blends and mixtures yarns/纱线混纺与混用 921 o- H8 S+ }' d/ @% [0 d/ _
Questions/思考题 93- k- r! K( A. x- z; B. W* T0 i
Chapter 9 Yarn Properties/纱线性能 94' y- e% u2 _' o
9.1 Yarn number/纱线细度 94
8 H- g: [' i: c* X8 `6 J 9.1.1 Denier system/旦数 94% ~4 y4 b. P9 e4 [. e$ ^* d& d4 g
9.1.2 Yarn count system/纱线英制支数 94
4 t. x! y5 [' `- L 9.1.3 Tex system/线密度 95. P6 G" F: _4 D% s5 u- {8 q
9.1.4 Metric numbering system/公制支数 952 \& ?: K# w. U6 z
9.1.5 Conversion in different systems/不同系统之间的换算 95
& ] i# q5 L" Z. s3 [4 ] 9.2 Ply yarn counts and singles equivalent/股线支数与单纱支数 95( j6 ]$ c, r( q2 A
9.3 Yarn twist/纱线捻度 96# |' z* d: z% P7 i& `/ b
9.4 Yarn hairiness/纱线毛羽 978 o: [, f6 C3 C7 }7 N8 a/ y& G4 t
9.4.1 Hairiness test method/毛羽测试方法 98
. Y* H/ p U Z0 u8 T6 X' Y8 e 9.4.2 Factors affecting hairiness/影响毛羽的因素 98
6 m9 {1 ]# X1 ~ 9.5 Yarn unevenness/纱线不匀 99/ Y8 B4 ~5 x3 B# W3 C! H
9.5.1 Test of yarn unevenness/纱线不匀的测试 99
3 T/ b; ^6 x) J& g2 O0 y 9.5.2 Reasons for yarn unevenness/纱线不匀的原因 100
7 N- k# [3 l3 l3 l3 V 9.6 Classification of yarn quality/纱线质量分析 100
" r, }- g6 _/ J1 a Questions/思考题 100( I! U! ~( u. ^4 u- I
Part Ⅳ Textile Fabrics/织物 102
; f; m ~" V& A$ U$ [ Chapter 10 Woven Fabrics/机织物 102
7 y0 q; [( e7 H 10.1 Making woven fabrics/织制机织物 102; d$ @ N8 g" J0 g8 x) J
10.1.1 The loom/织机 102
- }8 r: n( w) ^% x$ h9 J5 i 10.1.2 Loom type/织机类型 104$ e. ~5 `% A' P. G% }' Q4 f1 @- A$ Z
10.1.3 Loom motions/织机运动 104" L9 {& ]" B# c
10.1.4 Electronics in weaving/电子技术在织机中的应用 105: p* Y" Z- v- ? ?( b, K _: {
10.1.5 The selvage/布边 105
8 f+ M6 V: H- L6 `2 Z. ^ 10.2 Warp yarns and filling yarns/经纱和纬纱 1056 P) o9 [. g. w
10.2.1 Identification/鉴别 1065 H8 j7 Z& i8 c$ C: f0 b
10.3 Face and back/正面与反面 106
- g3 e% C; G& L0 b 10.3.1 Reasons for differenee/存在差异的原因 107
) w7 V( m$ k% k. L 10.3.2 Caution/应用的要点 107
. F" }" N8 b } 10.4 Top and bottom/顶端和底端 107, {9 _/ A( c- y R8 O
10.4.1 Reasons for difference/存在差异的原因 107
+ k4 G. f0 b$ {& Y5 k 10.5 Weave floats/组织浮线 108* V0 [8 V# H o' C0 H y/ H/ A( m
10.6 Basic weaves/基本组织 108
`! N L( u: b# G6 y) d5 T& w* y 10.6.1 Plain weave/平纹组织 108
$ P5 L# g# |8 l" _) N0 _ 10.6.2 Twill weave/斜纹组织 109
0 a* W; [& J" k3 K 10.6.3 Satin weave/缎纹组织 111
2 m+ P+ U' M v 10.7 Fabric performance and characteristics/织物性能和参数 1127 o4 U3 |" n. {8 W0 q: k; z! t) q
10.7.1 Fabric width/幅宽 1128 z. M) [4 B8 g$ L+ d3 C; j
10.7.2 Fabric weight/织物重量 112* w$ w, {# U7 P
10.7.3 Fabric thickness/织物厚度 113
- V/ h$ C0 A( ~2 Z3 m- S 10.7.4 Fabric density/织物密度 1132 w8 I7 S$ Q1 J% G7 _ R
10.7.5 Fabric count/织物经纬密度 1134 }$ w, x; K- M0 L0 h1 k! N
10.7.6 Fabric defects/织物疵点 113
: a1 k' N% |& j* N9 ?- N Questions/思考题 113
8 `' ]. U- ?" g$ v: o9 J Chapter 11 Knitted Fabrics/针织物 114& l7 [3 G6 u3 }& K+ p' x$ O5 y* d
11.1 Making of knitted fabric/针织物形成 114' d. O$ p+ M& ^$ n4 M
11.1.1 The forming of knitted stitches/线圈的形成 114
[2 C2 M& ?; e 11.1.2 Types of knitted stitches/线圈的种类 116 h! t" a$ ]% V2 t
11.2 Weft knits/纬编针织物 117) ]7 I- f" u/ A$ m) n D8 f
11.2.1 Jersey knit fabric/纬平针织物 117! k2 g, S+ _! q8 M1 @: u% }* }* I
11.2.2 Rib knit fabric/罗纹针织物 118
' p% a1 k+ i5 ?. ]/ ~ 11.2.3 Purl knit fabric/双反面针织物 119/ |$ w; C% ]& @ Z0 \3 J8 J
11.2.4 Double knits/双面针织物 120
; _- i9 T N; y4 B/ G. i! P 11.2.5 Full-fashioned knits/全成形针织物 1203 F( N. e0 y9 y+ }) D) E9 U5 D/ C# V
11.3 Warp knits/经编针织物 121
A$ d- P6 _/ N* w 11.3.1 Tricot fabrics/特里科经编针织物 121/ J8 [0 O, n' P% ^
11.3.2 Raschel fabrics/拉舍尔经编针织物 122# g+ Z. L, d" x5 |
11.4 Performance and characteristics/性能和参数 122
- ?( C( @4 t! c* E3 A1 p$ P. ?! w* t Questions/思考题 123- o. p" F o5 }/ T% s
Chapter 12 Nonwoven Fabrics/非织造布 124
5 X1 `7 t7 W/ G( n# F 12.1 Introduction/导论 1247 z% `0 B( @, u0 I) F! k
12.2 Manufacturing methods/生产方法 125# _4 @4 ~: q& E# m7 _# v
12.2.1 Dry laid system/干法成网 125
- L9 R# |% R9 {" J 12.2.2 Wet laid system/湿法成网 125
' m+ l% \2 G# G1 N5 d6 v) ^ 12.2.3 Polymer laid system/聚合物挤压法 125
5 d$ I5 `6 V) V& ?7 A) ]# I: F 12.3 Various nonwovens/各种非织造布 125. [! _; V, K7 D! r9 }
12.3.1 Needle punched nonwovens/针刺法非织造布 125; ?* Y2 X! k' O7 h
12.3.2 Bonded web nonwovens/黏合法非织造布 126
: v5 t! o9 b0 h 12.3.3 Spunlaced nonwovens/射流喷网法非织造布 127' Y0 h" j3 {; e5 s
12.3.4 Spunbonded nonwovens/纺粘法非织造布 128
# T9 Q2 \% H3 r, m 12.3.5 Melt-blown nonwovens/熔喷法非织造布 129
1 }' E- h1 s% }' o/ X3 {- ^ Questions/思考题 1292 y2 j* S. i: D7 E* Y( F/ V
Part Ⅴ Textile Testing/纺织品测试 130# Z! z/ L+ [$ E4 L& B' F) c; y
Chapter 13 General Test Methods/常规测试方法 1302 h+ I0 T6 M, z( F2 g
13.1 General fiber tests/纤维常规测试 130
/ O" ], J3 n7 l) B- W! n% y6 W 13.1.1 Fiber identification/纤维鉴别 1304 n$ }# o4 S7 @3 h& ?
13.1.2 Fiber length/纤维长度 134
0 S P& Z$ A8 Y) V* R 13.1.3 Fiber fineness or linear density/纤维细度或线密度 135
' @: U g2 Y) Z& U+ [6 D8 l# y 13.1.4 Cross-sectional shape/截面形状 135
' ]- A+ i! t& _+ W7 T9 H 13.1.5 Crimp/卷曲 135$ _- c2 M& H' P P: T
13.1.6 Regain/回潮率 1362 ? f6 M; ~7 O$ M' B5 _8 C
13.1.7 Mechanical properties/机械性能 136
/ H4 Y; b4 X9 i0 y 13.1.8 Chemical characteristics/化学性能 136
9 K7 y. ^& U# F6 r1 v" J/ _0 p# V 13.1.9 Surface characteristics/表面性能 136+ b2 {6 F! A) N% L! P" F
13.1.10 Density and specific gravity/密度和相对密度 137
, g+ \3 h t+ p/ C6 A9 P" t/ n% A 13.2 Special tests for natural fibers/天然纤维的测试 137: Q- F5 I1 c6 s- ~
13.2.1 Tests for cotton/棉纤维测试 137. H. m& G" R1 Z5 d$ |
13.2.2 Tests for wool/毛纤维测试 139
! \4 K+ j% b7 D% h/ a/ K5 E" T# F* v 13.3 Testing of tensile properties/拉伸性能测试 140
5 `, l. D2 s7 U+ p 13.3.1 Description of tensile proprieties/拉伸性能的描述 141
# x+ E: \8 D4 a! _/ d5 d h3 _9 | 13.3.2 Fiber and yarn tensile testing/纤维和纱线拉伸性能的测试 146, ^$ ] M6 O3 o. A# C& c1 o) f
13.3.3 Fabric tensile testing/织物拉伸性能测试方法 147
1 a# z2 A' Y Y$ |: T Questions/思考题 149
- b ^2 m" c Y( K Chapter 14 Fabric Abrasion and Pilling/织物磨损与起球 1504 S/ ]% t k/ }
14.1 Types of abrasion/磨损的类型 150
% M o3 S* A3 [ 14.1.1 Abrasion between fabrics/织物间的磨损 150
$ |1 w4 v6 Q1 g8 k 14.1.2 Abrasion between fabric and a nontextile surface/织物与非纤维制品表面磨损 150
9 K8 _1 J6 I: E0 Q 14.1.3 Abrasion within fabric/织物内部磨损 151
( l7 B" p2 A6 S: ? 14.1.4 Abrasion by foreign materials within the fabric/与织物内部其他材料的磨损 151
_0 x; m" K! G0 d* H' R: \9 p/ @ 14.2 Factors affecting fabric abrasion resistance/影响耐磨性能的因素 1512 N$ v" ~* }+ P8 `1 M; X5 {
14.2.1 Fabric properties/织物性能 151
* |5 k C" g4 O& m) d. s 14.2.2 Other factors/其他因素 153& e+ u% c' A0 Q f% }
14.3 Abrasion testing/磨损测试 154: T [1 ~1 N3 U9 U$ z- c" [
14.3.1 Visual comparison with an unabraded specimen/与未磨损样品视觉对比 154* t) j- j: j, q+ P. D
14.3.2 Number of cycles to produce a hole/产生磨损破洞需要的摩擦圈数 154
& ~" T$ D4 z1 H# K6 ?/ X/ j 14.3.3 Change in a physical property/物理性能的变化 1540 g/ T C% B8 x7 p g# H
14.3.4 Microscopic examination/显微镜观测 155
9 V4 F+ o& r$ m# s 14.4 Aesthetics of abrasion and wear/穿着和磨损对美感的影响 155
. b1 S: u! D2 G( b3 ^ 14.4.1 Color changes caused by abrasion/磨损引起的颜色变化 155, h5 _. s; S" G' b1 t* o
14.4.2 Pilling/起球 156
' P1 n: N/ B9 a0 _ K Questions/思考题 157
; d! @* R3 s" R' M5 A Chapter 15 Fabric Hand and Drape/织物手感与悬垂 158
* z4 B9 P* V# ~2 P: c/ i 15.1 Fabric hand/织物手感 158, z6 F' Y: N) e
15.2 Fabric drape/织物悬垂 159
, q2 z' h- n' N# F 15.3 Measurement of hand and drape/手感与悬垂的评价 161
8 W3 C+ s: @/ W9 \- t 15.3.1 Subjective evaluation/主观评定法 161
4 `8 C) I3 A. L2 t 15.3.2 Quantitative measurement/定量评定法 162
* l" i' ~# ]6 K% b" ~ 15.3.3 Kawabata evaluation system/KES评定法 1638 {1 x/ `7 @4 U! c9 ^
Questions/思考题 163/ U4 v q5 k8 S- J
Chapter 16 Fabric Colorfastness/织物染色牢度 164
3 Y% k+ a" c9 ]& j& [% x/ ~/ s, ]% J5 [ 16.1 Evaluation of color and colorfastness/颜色和染色牢度评定方法 164
' a! K; V h; L, ? 16.2 Colorfastness tests/染色牢度测试 164
0 c, o; L! S, m8 |; ~0 K 16.2.1 Colorfastness to crocking/耐摩擦色牢度 164
Z5 b4 N% u$ q: N0 A 16.2.2 Colorfastness to laundering and bleaching/耐洗涤和耐漂白色牢 165
1 D( @0 L2 G, { 16.2.3 Colorfastness to drycleaning/耐干洗色牢度 166. l& `" N( u" X; D# m4 p+ b
16.2.4 Colorfastness to perspiration/耐汗渍色牢度 166
9 B* {- Y3 f& j) S. w+ P 16.2.5 Colorfastness to water/耐水浸色牢度 166* N. I- {1 _& x6 g! r
16.2.6 Colorfastness to light/耐光照色牢度 167! `: P% ]# L! b
16.2.7 Colorfastness to atmospheric contaminants/耐空气污染色牢度 168# W( U& w5 B& N$ J
Questions/思考题 168* H/ P) T6 c8 l( T. b4 W: Y
Chapter 17 Fabric Flammability/织物可燃性 169
7 d# b8 A* b9 U 17.1 Flammability standards/可燃性标准 169
3 x% L% P) K. J 17.2 Properties affecting flammability/影响可燃性的因素 169
& B% W Y+ t4 w3 `5 @3 I3 Z. g& @ 17.3 Flammability testing/可燃性测试 171
$ ?& q, a2 j& G+ F 17.3.1 Forty-five degree angle test/45°燃烧测试法 1718 o/ z! N4 Q; V! v: ^0 a
17.3.2 Vertical flame tests/垂直燃烧测试法 172! U; z: G7 U* Q: ?4 @- @5 I
17.3.3 Carpet testing/地毯测试 172
& z4 h' n( Z# J* b1 L& _5 N 17.3.4 Cigarette tests/卷烟点燃测试 172
* M! }% V+ {" R# q. i" d1 m 17.3.5 Other standard flammability tests/其他可燃性测试 1735 ^) K& Y( E/ x' x# F! o
Questions/思考题 1734 R; f1 x8 J% r
Chapter 18 Comfort of Textiles/纺织品舒适性 174' d4 y. j9 C' b# g+ }7 i
18.1 Physical phenomena affecting thermal comfort/影响热舒适性能的物理现象 174
; Y; J3 x7 ?; f* U% t( G1 N 18.1.1 Heat transfer/热传递 1741 ~) H/ ~9 r9 X8 x5 f: a
18.1.2 Moisture transfer/湿传递 1756 y8 S- s Q* H1 d3 ?1 n
18.1.3 Water resistance/抗水性 175
9 Y/ z2 a! ~% p1 G3 E; y- I& Z4 @ 18.1.4 Air transfer/透气性 176
5 v* j+ x. T1 F M0 V7 p 18.1.5 Porosity and cover factor/多孔性和覆盖系数 176 C3 H% n2 \1 T! U* f- B4 F1 g
18.1.6 Electrostatic propensity/静电 177
: L, _/ Y; K! ^; c 18.2 Evaluations of textile properties related to comfort/与舒适性相关的纺织品性能评价 177
: ]: {0 [3 G8 F9 a 18.2.1 Heat transfer/热传递 1782 i* x M6 M" f3 ^( y
18.2.2 Moisture properties/湿传递性能 179: \) K) `/ A1 s$ h
18.2.3 Air permeability/透气性 179
# t. _) E0 u7 j- y/ `; g 18.2.4 Porosity/孔隙率 1801 u2 D( [+ V2 G: l1 m
18.2.5 Electrostatic tests/静电测试 1808 @8 W, }" a/ U3 L* M8 J! k
Questions/思考题 1808 \3 t W5 l0 I8 ?8 y
Appendix/附录 181) A! U% V$ p7 ]* G: d
AATCC:AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS/美国纺织化学家与染色家协会 181
* l7 q ?/ l; g% F1 e% f1 _ ASTM:AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR TESTING AND MATERIALS/美国材料试验学会 184
) @3 S6 w% E5 S# O7 q, D; u9 \Vocabulary/词汇表 189' ^2 T5 x( t' H' P
References/参考文献 197
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