
纺织材料学(双语教材),刘妍,熊磊,PDF。普通高等教育“十一五”国家级规划教材(本科),纺织工程专业双语教材,电子目录,14M。
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2 d. M2 q0 x6 F5 K$ e3 X2 {内容提要
h/ S3 u/ w+ O! p+ \7 |* C本书讨论了纤维、纱线与织物(包括机织物、针织物及非织造布)的结构、机械性能、物理性能及使用性能。涉及的纤维势括天然纤维(如棉、毛、麻、丝等)、传统化学纤维及新型化学纤维。本书同时介绍了纤维、纱线和织物的各种标准测试方法(包括国际上常用的ASTM, AATCC及GB等方法),并讨论了与各种测试方法有关的测试原理及对测试结果的影响因素。
6 _2 w) T c# \4 ~" V本书可供高等纺织院校纺织、服装相关专业的本科生及研究生作为《纺织材料学》的双语教材或专业英语教材,也可供其他专业师生、纺织贸易专业人员和科研及生产单位的技术人员参考。
; j2 {( n: f9 S& ]9 q. k目录
2 C, K+ B' S, w% j& MPart Ⅰ An Introduction to Textiles/纺织入门 18% \& m3 `, g$ o( C; [
Chapter 1 Introduction/介绍 18
" v4 ]( c, E4 W* ~9 N3 H 1.1 ASTM Standard Terminology Relating to Textiles/ASTM纺织标准术语 183 u3 h q& R9 H/ H+ o' `
1.2 Fiber history/纤维历史 26 ~) w1 m' A+ O1 ]
1.2.1 Natural fibers/天然纤维 26
7 v% @) e* x9 P+ n 1.2.2 Man-made fibers/化学纤维 27
. M/ J8 u& ~& Y7 G: u* o0 S6 _ Questions/思考题 30
3 g, T% l! V; C: `( w z! OPart Ⅱ Textile Fibers/纺织纤维 32- ]- q' U2 ?1 {1 ~( _$ U
Chapter 2 Natural Cellulosic Fibers/天然纤维素纤维 329 v M( L6 H3 A4 Q# n8 |. f3 \
2.1 Cotton/棉 338 N1 y$ B" C9 P5 v- |. r
2.1.1 Nature of cotton/棉花的种类 33* p: }+ p; D1 _( v4 i/ f" i) x
2.1.2 Classification/分类 34
7 e+ J1 L8 L) z. P 2.1.3 Growth and structure of cotton/棉纤维的生长与结构 34
- R3 w' i5 u! A, O+ o4 f 2.1.4 Maturity/成熟度 36
6 g( t6 T2 ^& q" h# u1 M9 j 2.1.5 Cotton properties/棉纤维的性能 38
& U' F) Y( M0 H 2.1.6 Cotton classification/棉花分级 396 R% g4 Q2 m" q. ^, m1 a
2.2 Bast fibers/韧皮纤维 40
$ w5 ^" w6 I" C J 2.2.1 Flax (linen)/亚麻,亚麻织物 41
\$ y1 ~& |8 j7 U0 o 2.2.2 Ramie/苎麻 43
$ q4 Y+ |2 R" @/ A+ m, A7 m% s* X 2.2.3 Hemp/汉麻 442 O$ a$ L5 e1 s, g8 [! A G
2.2.4 Jute/黄麻 44* h! L9 q0 y- c0 w! s6 _( ]; L
Questions/思考题 45/ @! {- ?+ V! f* m- G4 m
Chapter 3 Natural Protein Fibers/天然蛋白质纤维 468 n* H# Y1 y" y# c) X
3.1 Wool/绵羊毛 468 e( o* L0 m; Q8 q
3.1.1 Wool production and history/羊毛生产和历史 46+ U) \( m _# w( v, Y5 ~3 p
3.1.2 Wool grading/羊毛分级 47
0 M2 i/ q' ~3 y, U$ W" K 3.1.3 Wool structure/羊毛结构 47+ J7 s5 b- ^ p! {& ]! m
3.1.4 Wool properties/羊毛性能 48
* ^% Y$ z7 [8 m2 J; e 3.2 Specialty animal fibers/特种动物毛 51
% X( o. @6 s# F" b& e7 B 3.3 Silk/丝 52: t7 J' z% R7 e
Questions/思考题 54
, T, U$ T* z* k9 V Chapter 4 Man-made Fibers/化学纤维 55: e- S3 i( B* U0 U7 R- W4 u% |' R. U
4.1 Manufacturing processing of fiber/纤维生产工艺 55. h! N2 U! R" S5 X5 u6 H
4.1.1 Wet spinning/湿法纺丝 566 B9 |8 b6 Z2 I0 H- @' I
4.1.2 Dry spinning/干法纺丝 56/ n8 g: P; L$ H6 [" ^6 ]
4.1.3 Melt spinning/熔体法纺丝 56- ], _# j" h" ]: X# i# M
4.1.4 Gel spinning/凝胶纺丝 57
1 Q2 L5 n" E- S1 m, a! s4 d 4.2 Regenerated fibers/再生纤维 57 e* Z2 q) x' @5 E! c" t" ?
4.2.1 Acetate/醋酯纤维 57: t, U1 H" f' B8 ~2 V) E
4.2.2 Triacetate/三醋酯纤维 59
5 @$ w8 o; ?% { 4.2.3 Viscose fibers/粘胶纤维 591 A P6 q5 M8 q- l
4.3 Synthetic fibers/合成纤维 60
~: E; F9 h: d6 m6 {" O2 ^ 4.3.1 Acrylic/腈纶 60
% k v# g, I( B& x 4.3.2 Modacrylic/改性腈纶 617 X! N% O: C. i. M1 q
4.3.3 Nylon/锦纶 61
2 T; k3 g# [7 m3 H& p& f 4.3.4 Polyester/涤纶 62+ ?5 h9 a0 ~1 K N
4.3.5 PBI/聚苯并咪唑纤维 63; A: b+ `$ h- r; Q
4.3.6 Vinal/聚乙烯醇纤维 63' X6 @" w5 F" i7 h h; q; j2 e
4.3.7 Olefin/聚烯烃纤维 63! i0 w$ U2 j* `. A+ j: H
4.3.8 Aramid/芳纶 64
+ l* j# ]% Y6 g% e E 4.3.9 Lycra/莱卡 64* }/ \$ Y5 ^/ m" }& f$ J
4.4 Other man-made fibers/其他化学纤维 66
* s1 r/ a9 G2 h6 H, ]7 s 4.4.1 Glass/玻璃纤维 66( w% {' e9 f% a L( G8 w9 P9 k- X$ K8 A
4.4.2 Metallic/金属纤维 67: w, l6 l1 Q* H# L5 T: C
Questions/思考题 67
$ o5 s$ W- z' _. w+ x. m Chapter 5 New Fibers/新型纤维 68- C$ q: ]5 d2 t) a. e+ U
5.1 Carbon fibers/碳纤维 68/ w6 U7 R9 ^" _& j7 Y O
5.2 Fluorocarbon/氟碳纤维 68' `# u2 b# V$ H
5.3 Lyocell fibers(Tencel)/莱塞尔纤维 68
R2 \) u. k+ f! B 5.4 High-wet-modulus fibers/高湿模量纤维 69- _6 m+ Q) x2 G8 V7 n+ ?! ^3 V
5.4.1 Modal fibers/莫代尔纤维 69' u7 t+ D9 ]9 M6 ^0 X! p
5.4.2 Richcel/丽赛纤维 70: {; J1 V* I5 A, |) E: O$ ^
5.5 Soybean protein composite fibers/大豆蛋白复合纤维 70# C/ E. Z6 b0 m# `) D
5.6 PLA fiber/聚左旋乳酸纤维 71* S' y- K$ K. Y3 T
5.7 Heterogenous fibers/复合纤维 710 g. |+ H0 z5 \" e9 ~" Z- O5 Z) F
5.7.1 Bicomponent or multicomponent/双组分或多组分 723 O& n% A$ c% J8 q2 G5 S+ t# m* p; f
5.7.2 Biconstituent or multiconstituent/双成分或多成分 736 I, R. y9 ~- Q% p" E2 k
5.7.3 Matrix or matrix-fibril/基质型纤维 73: t2 K! w+ A1 T
5.8 Differential fibers/差别化纤维 747 N1 {- k. `' g5 I
5.9 Functional fibers/功能性纤维 74) C& [6 ?2 L! Q+ ]2 y
5.10 High performance fibers/高性能纤维 74/ }: j* Q( h6 l: D& {/ X7 B4 m; Y
Questions/思考题 74% N% C3 {8 ]5 x& l
Chapter 6 The Property of Absorbing Moisture/吸湿性 75
- J0 j! f, G+ f( z 6.1 Orientation and crystallization/取向与结晶 75- e2 k+ V/ }% B- R
6.2 Moisture sorption/吸湿性 75
& P/ h" J, Q: I( ~) {& ~9 c5 ] 6.2.1 Regain and moisture content/回潮率与含水率 75 n0 Y3 y7 P. [5 N8 t l
6.2.2 Relation between regain and relative humidity/回潮率与相对湿度的关系 75
. \+ `8 z' K/ | 6.2.3 Comparison of various materials/不同材料吸湿性的对比 76
3 P$ [, z) D3 t+ \: l1 f9 |" v 6.2.4 Theories of moisture sorption/吸湿理论 78! [- Q3 v; }' o4 I
Questions/思考题 804 M5 Z. ] @9 K9 T! P/ F
Chapter 7 Other Physical Properties of Textile Fibers/纤维的其他物理性能 81
: O7 H$ v% ^$ T$ t! S: h 7.1 Electronic properties/电学性能 81
- [4 j- ^4 x2 n7 k4 | 7.1.1 Definitions/定义 81' m5 O# _+ n! }
7.2 Optical properties/光学性能 82
. B' L! ^- D* K1 \% \6 y* N 7.3 Thermal properties/热学性能 83
" W9 \% p2 g2 \ 7.3.1 Thermal parameters/热力学参数 832 j' y& m. x( I2 V
7.3.2 A comparison of temperature effects/温度效应比较 83
! d/ k* a# G& r1 ^/ q2 _ Questions/思考题 83
K% T, Q' ~' ~) t* V8 [7 fPart Ⅲ Textile Yarns/纺织纱线 84
7 a7 l: P1 H+ c& `! T Chapter 8 Yarn Processing and Construction/纱线制造与结构 843 F- G- X( C# P
8.1 Spun yarns/短纤纱 85
: ~0 D5 S9 b! u! y7 g- y 8.2 Filament yarns/长丝纱 85 O4 v9 W7 o j t/ U- Z! r: U8 `" D+ c
8.3 Methods of yarn processing/纺纱方法 85
) l: K+ N" H- o6 m& { 8.3.1 Ring-spinning/环锭纺 86( O( a: c% `1 W d" q3 S
8.3.2 New methods of yarn processing/新型纺纱方法 86% P# y# e& R6 m( b9 G7 w* I$ e
8.4 Single and ply yarns/单纱和股线 89: L+ e) @# M* u4 M N; i
8.5 Special types of yarn/特种纱线 90
4 ~, T% B9 j% Y3 U. T B# K5 ` 8.5.1 Fancy yarns/花式纱 90
# d2 a7 j5 w, `5 Z$ k3 @ 8.5.2 Stretch yarns/弹力纱 91& n f. j% c3 V( A s( U8 e
8.5.3 Textured yarns 变形纱线 914 t' J9 @0 C0 ~) f/ Q$ r3 F
8.6 Blends and mixtures yarns/纱线混纺与混用 924 @9 @1 r/ k4 B& W
Questions/思考题 93* n1 a' e; K8 ~1 Z7 \5 Y
Chapter 9 Yarn Properties/纱线性能 94' q5 Z+ C) C* ]3 s
9.1 Yarn number/纱线细度 94
! x9 ^+ O* Z! D7 O& | 9.1.1 Denier system/旦数 94
4 B) {8 _0 _( l8 i! M9 U 9.1.2 Yarn count system/纱线英制支数 94; P4 G+ _ V. y2 l3 `" A
9.1.3 Tex system/线密度 95
' R$ Y! B- X8 v* }1 y 9.1.4 Metric numbering system/公制支数 95; K" t9 g8 D7 o9 R5 W
9.1.5 Conversion in different systems/不同系统之间的换算 95
: o K1 k: g8 f6 X: p4 H7 i8 w 9.2 Ply yarn counts and singles equivalent/股线支数与单纱支数 959 l& p; U3 g* K$ U8 g1 C' e
9.3 Yarn twist/纱线捻度 96& b" ?# S, o! y
9.4 Yarn hairiness/纱线毛羽 97" s6 e( c& Y g1 R5 b& M1 |3 Y# |
9.4.1 Hairiness test method/毛羽测试方法 982 |6 t$ M5 n8 S% ^7 j% w
9.4.2 Factors affecting hairiness/影响毛羽的因素 987 `* A/ \" m6 ?) N) k& S
9.5 Yarn unevenness/纱线不匀 99/ |# A" \* R* \8 i8 e
9.5.1 Test of yarn unevenness/纱线不匀的测试 99
- u ]& W! }8 Y/ D/ R, ` L H, w( X 9.5.2 Reasons for yarn unevenness/纱线不匀的原因 100
- T3 u4 j& z9 n! T 9.6 Classification of yarn quality/纱线质量分析 100
# `- Q$ M, t. T1 Q% k: a Questions/思考题 1004 W8 G+ h( v. x( w# ` J! n8 {7 }
Part Ⅳ Textile Fabrics/织物 102
* m' m2 V. H% g; B0 H/ L* q* n- @* M Chapter 10 Woven Fabrics/机织物 102- d3 r3 m6 |4 D7 D
10.1 Making woven fabrics/织制机织物 102
$ m) t2 @2 t: a8 N+ L3 W J3 e9 ?' F 10.1.1 The loom/织机 1024 t1 K6 U. f1 U$ \* r
10.1.2 Loom type/织机类型 104
$ c8 D; X" a' e9 a$ O, n/ K 10.1.3 Loom motions/织机运动 104
& o3 ?( Q6 o! I }, l& \" }6 N) ] 10.1.4 Electronics in weaving/电子技术在织机中的应用 105
1 Z, u! Z5 x7 `( b- G$ V 10.1.5 The selvage/布边 105- ^, O# l W: ]$ C8 |2 A
10.2 Warp yarns and filling yarns/经纱和纬纱 105# a) Q7 d) S _' V( O
10.2.1 Identification/鉴别 106
0 J; q5 i+ ^! r/ u( h 10.3 Face and back/正面与反面 106
5 Q: | L. ?0 ~2 w 10.3.1 Reasons for differenee/存在差异的原因 107
( Q9 i9 Q& h4 i6 `1 [ 10.3.2 Caution/应用的要点 107
7 X8 k, G+ y8 N J$ u3 m 10.4 Top and bottom/顶端和底端 107
, U# I; `" G4 J* g. x3 C- a 10.4.1 Reasons for difference/存在差异的原因 107
1 \' q: [: U0 i+ m# i( a, _ 10.5 Weave floats/组织浮线 1086 C5 p( M% K9 E+ D9 C S# k5 |
10.6 Basic weaves/基本组织 108
4 ]8 G7 {0 |# |, ~ 10.6.1 Plain weave/平纹组织 108: B. u( B8 y. W
10.6.2 Twill weave/斜纹组织 109
' s- f. V4 ]2 q+ a$ ^: N) ] X `+ ?4 O8 T 10.6.3 Satin weave/缎纹组织 1113 e% A+ P% O* t% _) D T
10.7 Fabric performance and characteristics/织物性能和参数 112% g$ U+ q8 v, B! s$ |9 B) a. q5 W
10.7.1 Fabric width/幅宽 112
" A/ q* q: W. o S2 _1 ?% X9 u4 U 10.7.2 Fabric weight/织物重量 112$ q: D! Z# x# z5 M$ y7 w2 w
10.7.3 Fabric thickness/织物厚度 113) j. w7 M/ O& b9 r! U) d
10.7.4 Fabric density/织物密度 113' a$ |( t7 K# I5 u1 L( K. H
10.7.5 Fabric count/织物经纬密度 113
& v# H! [; y8 t {% V5 N 10.7.6 Fabric defects/织物疵点 1130 `! r$ e j; C
Questions/思考题 1138 S, a: m" r0 F, r% R* S# g% B; a
Chapter 11 Knitted Fabrics/针织物 114
3 d3 W2 }; v+ b0 |) m/ r 11.1 Making of knitted fabric/针织物形成 1141 c$ L3 X+ j0 O9 _
11.1.1 The forming of knitted stitches/线圈的形成 114
% P) w# n+ _1 e( C( W& d 11.1.2 Types of knitted stitches/线圈的种类 116
. m# v, U5 J% r( x) L 11.2 Weft knits/纬编针织物 117
8 }% o& {# U& S9 M6 v 11.2.1 Jersey knit fabric/纬平针织物 117
% V! u3 N. S. T/ _9 F. A7 x 11.2.2 Rib knit fabric/罗纹针织物 118
3 q% C. E) [3 N/ ]' J+ \( Q* T$ n 11.2.3 Purl knit fabric/双反面针织物 119
* x2 U& C6 Z9 [, t1 G7 j' u, |( l 11.2.4 Double knits/双面针织物 120
2 ?! t3 i% |0 R7 r7 u' \ 11.2.5 Full-fashioned knits/全成形针织物 120
) C" C7 { k' k+ W+ Y 11.3 Warp knits/经编针织物 121/ c5 [2 A! E% S* D$ [6 X
11.3.1 Tricot fabrics/特里科经编针织物 121- k) [3 S& R/ J3 w, F
11.3.2 Raschel fabrics/拉舍尔经编针织物 122
3 Y. U5 d& T3 P$ {& ? 11.4 Performance and characteristics/性能和参数 122
# L7 P( T3 y3 G& J Questions/思考题 123; p& ^- p1 ~' U
Chapter 12 Nonwoven Fabrics/非织造布 1245 b! G4 `7 t+ D- t, D8 T, ]2 R
12.1 Introduction/导论 124' i+ }! H9 G; X% [
12.2 Manufacturing methods/生产方法 1258 G9 N4 R' j9 L& I
12.2.1 Dry laid system/干法成网 1254 Y4 R8 \" b- m
12.2.2 Wet laid system/湿法成网 1253 l; g7 q' z4 `5 Z5 e
12.2.3 Polymer laid system/聚合物挤压法 125
) g3 E: C& m1 b( r+ F 12.3 Various nonwovens/各种非织造布 125) p; m* K0 g; G, c
12.3.1 Needle punched nonwovens/针刺法非织造布 1251 O- \ S3 K. d
12.3.2 Bonded web nonwovens/黏合法非织造布 126
+ t+ C" Z+ U$ m( k& y 12.3.3 Spunlaced nonwovens/射流喷网法非织造布 127- |- m. u. s0 [# B, ~0 o, ^
12.3.4 Spunbonded nonwovens/纺粘法非织造布 128* w/ }- j7 n' X9 i1 ?+ T7 D0 ^
12.3.5 Melt-blown nonwovens/熔喷法非织造布 129
. s: V$ Z) E8 R7 I Questions/思考题 1294 V) t, e. f0 Y& b0 y
Part Ⅴ Textile Testing/纺织品测试 130
1 j/ @. l" W( x1 }. V$ C, p T" u& t Chapter 13 General Test Methods/常规测试方法 130
) k K1 G) w E# }" C; H& `2 m 13.1 General fiber tests/纤维常规测试 130+ }/ i6 ?( F; c3 U5 g. H8 D
13.1.1 Fiber identification/纤维鉴别 130
5 f S& s! b. @7 r6 ` @ 13.1.2 Fiber length/纤维长度 134. Q. s B8 c0 C& S/ [- Y
13.1.3 Fiber fineness or linear density/纤维细度或线密度 1358 u# ]2 M4 Y2 b5 M$ ?) r
13.1.4 Cross-sectional shape/截面形状 135% g0 m e$ i# Y, e) O/ [( f
13.1.5 Crimp/卷曲 135: o$ Q' D$ ~0 K& j( w
13.1.6 Regain/回潮率 136
/ L2 z( T( S1 f1 b$ _ 13.1.7 Mechanical properties/机械性能 136
4 M9 V+ m2 d3 `$ q. C' j H% j 13.1.8 Chemical characteristics/化学性能 136, G; V3 J: k2 H+ K2 Y- `; k
13.1.9 Surface characteristics/表面性能 1366 v& j4 E9 l* B% A% y
13.1.10 Density and specific gravity/密度和相对密度 1379 C2 E+ e/ @1 ~0 y7 _, s! B
13.2 Special tests for natural fibers/天然纤维的测试 137
3 m7 u7 `5 k$ s 13.2.1 Tests for cotton/棉纤维测试 137
7 C4 }! W: b# D1 Q, B3 [ 13.2.2 Tests for wool/毛纤维测试 139
5 ~, v: Q* F2 I; M# ?9 y; y- M 13.3 Testing of tensile properties/拉伸性能测试 140
4 B" W% D' U; |2 L$ c0 K0 x 13.3.1 Description of tensile proprieties/拉伸性能的描述 141. \5 t( q+ M! x
13.3.2 Fiber and yarn tensile testing/纤维和纱线拉伸性能的测试 146; z" ~# e( m) O2 g$ N* ?) {, P
13.3.3 Fabric tensile testing/织物拉伸性能测试方法 147
. N4 B8 O3 O- D" E. }8 Q& f Questions/思考题 149
8 a0 L3 x- h5 w) |4 `+ w5 ?5 O Chapter 14 Fabric Abrasion and Pilling/织物磨损与起球 150
1 E! c; V" f% C8 H 14.1 Types of abrasion/磨损的类型 150
- ^0 E' E( _: Y: t7 ]9 e; a 14.1.1 Abrasion between fabrics/织物间的磨损 150, n/ @* J7 D4 T9 r E2 R
14.1.2 Abrasion between fabric and a nontextile surface/织物与非纤维制品表面磨损 150
9 u% z o: T6 S1 }8 V 14.1.3 Abrasion within fabric/织物内部磨损 151
+ J. J- [( ^8 u- Y7 D 14.1.4 Abrasion by foreign materials within the fabric/与织物内部其他材料的磨损 151
* W* W5 X6 I( \/ X" t 14.2 Factors affecting fabric abrasion resistance/影响耐磨性能的因素 1515 h" ^' U+ S; D
14.2.1 Fabric properties/织物性能 151
6 x: \3 D5 `7 x( f! z 14.2.2 Other factors/其他因素 153% `* g4 H" y' Z3 W
14.3 Abrasion testing/磨损测试 154
, m" G" b! a: [2 a% b 14.3.1 Visual comparison with an unabraded specimen/与未磨损样品视觉对比 154
8 C# T$ g+ K- ?/ p X$ Z- ? 14.3.2 Number of cycles to produce a hole/产生磨损破洞需要的摩擦圈数 154
! Z. {. u0 u( Z3 S( x* q1 I6 t 14.3.3 Change in a physical property/物理性能的变化 1542 ~* s/ p% t1 W- W; T1 B c( |$ g
14.3.4 Microscopic examination/显微镜观测 155
- q1 r: V' p# F& z7 |5 }! | 14.4 Aesthetics of abrasion and wear/穿着和磨损对美感的影响 155
; Z' R3 u$ u7 e8 Q' X4 M' \ 14.4.1 Color changes caused by abrasion/磨损引起的颜色变化 155
* a% o+ @3 t' ~* L/ q. Y* k 14.4.2 Pilling/起球 156
; _6 Y8 `/ O, n# }6 P+ s+ F Questions/思考题 1574 o6 o3 Z' ]7 Q# L
Chapter 15 Fabric Hand and Drape/织物手感与悬垂 158! [$ v! @! A* D4 D9 f7 w
15.1 Fabric hand/织物手感 158
# A* q8 e; |3 |1 ?' c. i 15.2 Fabric drape/织物悬垂 1597 Y; C1 l! x' i! ?
15.3 Measurement of hand and drape/手感与悬垂的评价 161
( S# v( d3 ]* V" n- M% o 15.3.1 Subjective evaluation/主观评定法 161
( M. i' `# U- _+ H; z- h 15.3.2 Quantitative measurement/定量评定法 162) u; g* t4 |& x3 `/ C) F( D, ]
15.3.3 Kawabata evaluation system/KES评定法 163
( X9 p1 Q* A' U Questions/思考题 163
+ q2 i- k/ j5 P d. M; C! [& S Chapter 16 Fabric Colorfastness/织物染色牢度 164- S! b) ?9 Y0 u) r
16.1 Evaluation of color and colorfastness/颜色和染色牢度评定方法 164' h9 U3 g' l; l* ~( n# T1 b
16.2 Colorfastness tests/染色牢度测试 164$ B. K; z7 |9 d/ V
16.2.1 Colorfastness to crocking/耐摩擦色牢度 164
9 E. o5 Q( G! r) V' P 16.2.2 Colorfastness to laundering and bleaching/耐洗涤和耐漂白色牢 165
) L) ?0 F4 R# V; J0 R5 E( ] 16.2.3 Colorfastness to drycleaning/耐干洗色牢度 166
& b9 G$ C5 o7 Y9 [ 16.2.4 Colorfastness to perspiration/耐汗渍色牢度 166+ o# V0 j, U' G! B& _1 M
16.2.5 Colorfastness to water/耐水浸色牢度 166
2 g9 B, o: y" O/ E; n 16.2.6 Colorfastness to light/耐光照色牢度 167
$ y% [/ V9 p; W, R6 ~5 k+ ? 16.2.7 Colorfastness to atmospheric contaminants/耐空气污染色牢度 168/ ]" L& C+ K; p5 f
Questions/思考题 168
$ p f: I1 J! w. v9 V Chapter 17 Fabric Flammability/织物可燃性 169
& j2 c; j( R& z4 p$ p8 ~9 ] 17.1 Flammability standards/可燃性标准 169/ f+ C6 q' p6 n) C( E$ l
17.2 Properties affecting flammability/影响可燃性的因素 169! W, c5 L+ e4 u$ P# D! o- V$ v; Q+ A7 I
17.3 Flammability testing/可燃性测试 171
8 {* L4 {; d! Y8 I 17.3.1 Forty-five degree angle test/45°燃烧测试法 171# b8 g/ Q$ H" z" ] e+ e% q
17.3.2 Vertical flame tests/垂直燃烧测试法 1726 m' M( g. @9 Y8 M4 i
17.3.3 Carpet testing/地毯测试 1726 ^: B: A4 y$ P
17.3.4 Cigarette tests/卷烟点燃测试 172
7 i5 S1 l3 ~# a# K5 E2 i 17.3.5 Other standard flammability tests/其他可燃性测试 173) \/ |8 A6 N! e: y( \: O2 A: N, D
Questions/思考题 173( |* Q% K, @, U! \6 G4 o
Chapter 18 Comfort of Textiles/纺织品舒适性 1742 d+ f U+ U9 \) J
18.1 Physical phenomena affecting thermal comfort/影响热舒适性能的物理现象 174
# r5 g* W& \4 z) ]# [ q) ` 18.1.1 Heat transfer/热传递 174
- l2 b/ ]1 c5 G, m2 e$ _- S 18.1.2 Moisture transfer/湿传递 175
9 [8 U# p$ D5 L: c8 Z 18.1.3 Water resistance/抗水性 175
4 q1 z8 |+ r/ c/ ? 18.1.4 Air transfer/透气性 176! ]/ G( z2 t* t# A$ ~; A
18.1.5 Porosity and cover factor/多孔性和覆盖系数 176
. Z$ S6 t4 t' ]8 f: f! E5 h 18.1.6 Electrostatic propensity/静电 1771 h' W; K) j& O. d
18.2 Evaluations of textile properties related to comfort/与舒适性相关的纺织品性能评价 177+ q) h# T, K6 F1 W
18.2.1 Heat transfer/热传递 178( |5 h! \+ v3 \9 ~7 U4 O- A
18.2.2 Moisture properties/湿传递性能 179
" ]6 {2 z# q+ |& p1 [- i 18.2.3 Air permeability/透气性 179
# @2 z7 w/ k- b$ i9 d$ ~% ~+ A2 a. a 18.2.4 Porosity/孔隙率 180( D j8 z D' e& _, o9 Y
18.2.5 Electrostatic tests/静电测试 180
! D3 G. o9 L& R. E Questions/思考题 1802 ^4 t0 T2 Y. c$ s8 }7 i9 W) B2 X# R
Appendix/附录 181
; A) Y8 r9 u/ @, ]& @2 E* a. u AATCC:AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS/美国纺织化学家与染色家协会 181
3 ?- M, s7 m, w* x9 {$ G ASTM:AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR TESTING AND MATERIALS/美国材料试验学会 1845 {+ f, o/ u4 u6 g1 A
Vocabulary/词汇表 1895 D( u/ C1 W, |3 J6 K) J
References/参考文献 197
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