
纺织材料学(双语教材),刘妍,熊磊,PDF。普通高等教育“十一五”国家级规划教材(本科),纺织工程专业双语教材,电子目录,14M。
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内容提要* n# q8 v; ?2 |; U' x* q9 r p
本书讨论了纤维、纱线与织物(包括机织物、针织物及非织造布)的结构、机械性能、物理性能及使用性能。涉及的纤维势括天然纤维(如棉、毛、麻、丝等)、传统化学纤维及新型化学纤维。本书同时介绍了纤维、纱线和织物的各种标准测试方法(包括国际上常用的ASTM, AATCC及GB等方法),并讨论了与各种测试方法有关的测试原理及对测试结果的影响因素。; j4 w4 c5 ?; w# J/ e9 l
本书可供高等纺织院校纺织、服装相关专业的本科生及研究生作为《纺织材料学》的双语教材或专业英语教材,也可供其他专业师生、纺织贸易专业人员和科研及生产单位的技术人员参考。
* f* y- k! f3 u1 B- M$ d目录. P/ h8 Z8 Z' @! Z4 k
Part Ⅰ An Introduction to Textiles/纺织入门 18- a4 {# e4 O# y* F' l6 ?
Chapter 1 Introduction/介绍 183 N# Z ?1 `/ ?& ]# V9 P8 I* O; k
1.1 ASTM Standard Terminology Relating to Textiles/ASTM纺织标准术语 18# x3 B$ Z- V& Y: T2 W- B
1.2 Fiber history/纤维历史 26
4 _7 N0 l: f2 J8 A5 |! o- B5 g; k 1.2.1 Natural fibers/天然纤维 26
! O& K/ f: }* e3 d9 T 1.2.2 Man-made fibers/化学纤维 27
# [0 D+ ?& c1 G/ j# a A Questions/思考题 30
; _- I) v% v1 ?) H$ MPart Ⅱ Textile Fibers/纺织纤维 32
c, ]# d, [/ H7 D! }8 n+ F Chapter 2 Natural Cellulosic Fibers/天然纤维素纤维 32( @- Q# [5 q. ]% n# W. }1 D
2.1 Cotton/棉 33
" C5 W& o$ k) b# c 2.1.1 Nature of cotton/棉花的种类 33# E, U! Z: P$ J" G& D7 F
2.1.2 Classification/分类 345 \- { L/ k- t7 H
2.1.3 Growth and structure of cotton/棉纤维的生长与结构 34
0 U$ t# [) x# q! p; L 2.1.4 Maturity/成熟度 363 S) X6 p! Y4 w/ m
2.1.5 Cotton properties/棉纤维的性能 38
( S! D3 t" B) V7 M 2.1.6 Cotton classification/棉花分级 39
3 T d# F2 q' [2 ^* { 2.2 Bast fibers/韧皮纤维 40- j$ o) ], w2 P5 Q
2.2.1 Flax (linen)/亚麻,亚麻织物 41
7 C+ j6 g i3 q) `3 C. s 2.2.2 Ramie/苎麻 43" I7 W1 B) }$ b$ N- Y
2.2.3 Hemp/汉麻 44
/ q" H. N4 C& X& M- K! h 2.2.4 Jute/黄麻 44+ \9 X# \0 p1 O4 Q( [# g% c* D
Questions/思考题 45* F& f, N) H5 b9 h/ W1 S) E* C
Chapter 3 Natural Protein Fibers/天然蛋白质纤维 46
; m$ i% Y3 T6 f. K7 _: B 3.1 Wool/绵羊毛 46
. l4 Z9 g. Q' G' G3 k0 L8 l/ q" |* \0 H 3.1.1 Wool production and history/羊毛生产和历史 463 m: K- o& W7 ?- n& O* \
3.1.2 Wool grading/羊毛分级 47+ q% t& @9 d% z, c$ _+ ], j
3.1.3 Wool structure/羊毛结构 47
4 n" V# o% J( p ~1 U: s 3.1.4 Wool properties/羊毛性能 48; Y9 R- g% k/ E% N5 J/ ?
3.2 Specialty animal fibers/特种动物毛 51# h2 o. W! ?: }
3.3 Silk/丝 529 y9 b. J, Z$ v0 `
Questions/思考题 540 F6 R( K2 P, @2 ]
Chapter 4 Man-made Fibers/化学纤维 55
, @6 w/ ]5 b! N/ I6 U! J 4.1 Manufacturing processing of fiber/纤维生产工艺 55) i; T3 |# d+ c" I7 e! q- i! c7 U
4.1.1 Wet spinning/湿法纺丝 56- k6 i; l0 F1 D6 l4 Y
4.1.2 Dry spinning/干法纺丝 56
) f. d, A8 q. f- F$ x( U 4.1.3 Melt spinning/熔体法纺丝 56
x: V0 A5 o& p' ~& S3 K1 a 4.1.4 Gel spinning/凝胶纺丝 57
) G/ U4 y/ c- a4 i; x, V# m* O! \ 4.2 Regenerated fibers/再生纤维 57, h7 D; P1 g. H2 \$ ~
4.2.1 Acetate/醋酯纤维 57
/ S; Q* f( _/ Q7 X6 u 4.2.2 Triacetate/三醋酯纤维 59
3 W% n s* q" D2 d; }+ {7 |- G 4.2.3 Viscose fibers/粘胶纤维 595 [- h& ?) y: F% n$ v
4.3 Synthetic fibers/合成纤维 603 k, H7 C1 t, g8 O
4.3.1 Acrylic/腈纶 60
/ h/ D3 G9 h0 K- z 4.3.2 Modacrylic/改性腈纶 61
( @' }' P2 D; T8 m* c' t$ w. r, ~9 | 4.3.3 Nylon/锦纶 61. H$ d4 Z6 C! {9 C5 m
4.3.4 Polyester/涤纶 621 J* L( G# b7 C, d" N% j: c- h
4.3.5 PBI/聚苯并咪唑纤维 63! q6 G7 o' x( G: y5 n
4.3.6 Vinal/聚乙烯醇纤维 63
( _* m- F7 ^. _0 y" z* u) g. g 4.3.7 Olefin/聚烯烃纤维 63
5 K4 S7 `1 J; ] `; f 4.3.8 Aramid/芳纶 64: O# o* W4 N8 k6 J/ O
4.3.9 Lycra/莱卡 64; e6 ?* y L% P p1 W% }
4.4 Other man-made fibers/其他化学纤维 663 w6 K$ s/ H8 R' R# \
4.4.1 Glass/玻璃纤维 66! J2 M; F# T7 e, w6 K
4.4.2 Metallic/金属纤维 67$ }- t9 G/ I' m( b
Questions/思考题 67$ r1 R) |7 q) b- M- w
Chapter 5 New Fibers/新型纤维 68
, e& J5 g. J A7 V1 E 5.1 Carbon fibers/碳纤维 68# L' s; ~+ w! Q* f
5.2 Fluorocarbon/氟碳纤维 685 \; F) T4 S# k( _- u% D
5.3 Lyocell fibers(Tencel)/莱塞尔纤维 68% S; j! r: x/ C( E+ ?' W7 p
5.4 High-wet-modulus fibers/高湿模量纤维 69+ C6 Q5 J# H# ]; ~6 o) O! N& |5 p
5.4.1 Modal fibers/莫代尔纤维 69
7 e: }0 g% L+ V: Q 5.4.2 Richcel/丽赛纤维 70
, H6 i# q2 `' H% X2 O& O% J 5.5 Soybean protein composite fibers/大豆蛋白复合纤维 70. d8 a* p% e9 j& f8 b
5.6 PLA fiber/聚左旋乳酸纤维 718 o: S7 `! a6 q& K& @4 L; \/ X1 v4 s
5.7 Heterogenous fibers/复合纤维 71
6 Z% @9 {. a" k5 O5 Y; W* s 5.7.1 Bicomponent or multicomponent/双组分或多组分 72
* w( l% k; Y7 ~' ]; f2 L1 _ p8 g 5.7.2 Biconstituent or multiconstituent/双成分或多成分 73
9 X5 Z1 G7 X2 D; ^" |0 F i 5.7.3 Matrix or matrix-fibril/基质型纤维 73
8 i8 m7 ?1 h- B, l# O8 w% u7 v 5.8 Differential fibers/差别化纤维 74
0 Q" R" R( A4 m! ?. T 5.9 Functional fibers/功能性纤维 74( z( y$ P6 h! }4 q7 |; e/ T- _
5.10 High performance fibers/高性能纤维 74
' T5 ]3 d+ R% s6 G6 l8 x$ } Questions/思考题 74
9 K8 T) g) E0 q9 A! Z& J" ?: n$ h* ~ Chapter 6 The Property of Absorbing Moisture/吸湿性 75
' d: y5 R- S S0 p 6.1 Orientation and crystallization/取向与结晶 75
* p2 h1 [6 W' J6 Q+ X- H9 @" R0 i N2 A 6.2 Moisture sorption/吸湿性 75) { C7 p% X1 z6 u& V3 `
6.2.1 Regain and moisture content/回潮率与含水率 75/ i" _' x7 l, m5 `% @
6.2.2 Relation between regain and relative humidity/回潮率与相对湿度的关系 75
( H- D, Z1 i1 K+ g* B, G 6.2.3 Comparison of various materials/不同材料吸湿性的对比 76' X; c& | ~+ \
6.2.4 Theories of moisture sorption/吸湿理论 78
# f1 c: w1 n, `! ?% n Questions/思考题 809 i- h; G8 o1 L
Chapter 7 Other Physical Properties of Textile Fibers/纤维的其他物理性能 813 t) R6 s( z6 C. h
7.1 Electronic properties/电学性能 812 i- V! ?3 k/ B- x
7.1.1 Definitions/定义 81 t! O( z: u0 c1 ?( a1 d& C n N
7.2 Optical properties/光学性能 82# K# b2 K! n) Q3 |- v& j
7.3 Thermal properties/热学性能 83
$ O* A. s2 @8 n4 j$ s p! _ 7.3.1 Thermal parameters/热力学参数 83
' u+ A# X( h5 c- n# j. U 7.3.2 A comparison of temperature effects/温度效应比较 83" M9 ]: E: u2 o3 B, b- i; e0 r
Questions/思考题 83! f1 g5 X! ]7 _( i- {
Part Ⅲ Textile Yarns/纺织纱线 84! R) q. u- h1 l- n5 ?
Chapter 8 Yarn Processing and Construction/纱线制造与结构 84
; }5 R9 z1 y5 s1 l8 |; u" N6 [9 X 8.1 Spun yarns/短纤纱 85) H& t! _1 \) X5 m4 c, i
8.2 Filament yarns/长丝纱 85
* V3 g# @" A' m$ v4 f& ~) Z: \ 8.3 Methods of yarn processing/纺纱方法 85- f5 t1 I, Q. l7 n2 b! P& ?
8.3.1 Ring-spinning/环锭纺 86" J7 ], @/ x8 d. b4 q7 C5 h! L( Z2 Y4 U
8.3.2 New methods of yarn processing/新型纺纱方法 86
; `5 o3 z( ?% s" Q 8.4 Single and ply yarns/单纱和股线 89
+ a8 U- x/ K/ \4 n% M 8.5 Special types of yarn/特种纱线 90' n2 e. k$ ]+ |0 G5 Z
8.5.1 Fancy yarns/花式纱 90
0 n8 d$ s# b* Q7 E) S! F 8.5.2 Stretch yarns/弹力纱 910 G1 T7 _6 v a+ @+ g; E3 U
8.5.3 Textured yarns 变形纱线 917 ]$ |$ {/ Z- Y( s% |, Y
8.6 Blends and mixtures yarns/纱线混纺与混用 928 r" t& s- K M! J+ ~0 C: r
Questions/思考题 937 b; }9 \3 o) H+ [4 f7 s% p# N
Chapter 9 Yarn Properties/纱线性能 94! D" A) B* {' x! K, K! F a
9.1 Yarn number/纱线细度 94
; H4 {% A* [4 q 9.1.1 Denier system/旦数 94
9 M* m' ?( E& N6 R: H$ m. n 9.1.2 Yarn count system/纱线英制支数 94
: e5 t. l1 M$ |* b0 K0 H 9.1.3 Tex system/线密度 955 ?" q# w5 Y4 w' l C+ _
9.1.4 Metric numbering system/公制支数 95
4 a2 h$ s: K Z; p; N% G 9.1.5 Conversion in different systems/不同系统之间的换算 95
& v- J8 v) g1 f% U- P1 \: } 9.2 Ply yarn counts and singles equivalent/股线支数与单纱支数 95& t' b. b8 W+ [4 J/ g1 S; L
9.3 Yarn twist/纱线捻度 962 ]) F4 M! h( Y1 @* J0 M2 X
9.4 Yarn hairiness/纱线毛羽 97
# L' Y! I* m8 f& y% Q6 {$ Y 9.4.1 Hairiness test method/毛羽测试方法 98
# y$ V( @& A1 r3 G 9.4.2 Factors affecting hairiness/影响毛羽的因素 98
, @7 h& b6 E# J 9.5 Yarn unevenness/纱线不匀 999 Y& J1 \3 C5 T& N3 [3 D. _
9.5.1 Test of yarn unevenness/纱线不匀的测试 99# N: |/ W- a( f. I9 o. ?( A
9.5.2 Reasons for yarn unevenness/纱线不匀的原因 100
9 K- S/ Y7 E) @& F$ K4 o, r0 q 9.6 Classification of yarn quality/纱线质量分析 100
, W7 |( b5 L; g( u Questions/思考题 1002 w w) b4 p S6 h% ^
Part Ⅳ Textile Fabrics/织物 1024 O$ d, P. k; c) t& B/ z
Chapter 10 Woven Fabrics/机织物 102
6 W$ R4 G: ~$ f x5 O/ ` b( D 10.1 Making woven fabrics/织制机织物 1026 u6 w- }1 \) r: U. R! x
10.1.1 The loom/织机 102
5 @ t8 v1 Y+ }5 a% i" E 10.1.2 Loom type/织机类型 104
; {, _( |3 w1 H; n: X: S3 W 10.1.3 Loom motions/织机运动 104
& m& O) h' U4 n 10.1.4 Electronics in weaving/电子技术在织机中的应用 105
4 W5 P, Z2 { e1 M6 `+ a 10.1.5 The selvage/布边 105
" ^. y! {; V/ m7 p! X 10.2 Warp yarns and filling yarns/经纱和纬纱 105
- _1 M7 y5 n- I' L8 C" g$ \& c. { 10.2.1 Identification/鉴别 106" t# d5 Y" p) E# t# J9 A/ ?
10.3 Face and back/正面与反面 1069 V9 E7 X# `* o7 w
10.3.1 Reasons for differenee/存在差异的原因 107+ O6 e- d- X' g& J& P$ g L
10.3.2 Caution/应用的要点 107 O3 D' N8 f5 o6 Q: t( c" _
10.4 Top and bottom/顶端和底端 107
+ x9 R L! M6 O! S; x8 a 10.4.1 Reasons for difference/存在差异的原因 1075 I; ?6 ]2 L0 O! t+ @$ h. C
10.5 Weave floats/组织浮线 108
8 j1 {. l w- l9 H 10.6 Basic weaves/基本组织 108; \$ w/ R6 b' d5 ?
10.6.1 Plain weave/平纹组织 1080 V) S/ A8 _# Z0 [
10.6.2 Twill weave/斜纹组织 109/ ?2 ^2 _: v6 F+ w) m1 N3 [
10.6.3 Satin weave/缎纹组织 1115 K/ y2 W& G, M5 w5 x( ^
10.7 Fabric performance and characteristics/织物性能和参数 112, i- h8 B: D' u- W q |& C
10.7.1 Fabric width/幅宽 112 J9 W* r* V# T$ w8 m
10.7.2 Fabric weight/织物重量 1127 z8 M7 u: X* _$ ^6 k+ G# R
10.7.3 Fabric thickness/织物厚度 1135 ~6 Z4 a9 p* ?
10.7.4 Fabric density/织物密度 113+ P0 r0 T! T6 v) }
10.7.5 Fabric count/织物经纬密度 113! J, x8 F" b% T
10.7.6 Fabric defects/织物疵点 113
( q* \' y8 W8 v( \+ L Questions/思考题 113. _3 W' y: a% I
Chapter 11 Knitted Fabrics/针织物 114/ R {. l. b; V5 J! [
11.1 Making of knitted fabric/针织物形成 114; Y2 Z; y2 x7 L3 z. e, l8 E
11.1.1 The forming of knitted stitches/线圈的形成 114! g4 d [9 s) r) T J q$ o
11.1.2 Types of knitted stitches/线圈的种类 116
+ e5 v6 F+ {8 t 11.2 Weft knits/纬编针织物 117
. `. v7 O6 x0 O) \+ i 11.2.1 Jersey knit fabric/纬平针织物 117
3 R0 l. j5 b" n! X$ I 11.2.2 Rib knit fabric/罗纹针织物 118! X. h3 O8 ^& X, _5 K, R# ?
11.2.3 Purl knit fabric/双反面针织物 119
3 H8 x% ]) g" o: O% r1 W' h 11.2.4 Double knits/双面针织物 120, G9 x' k) L! y) s8 l2 b* e
11.2.5 Full-fashioned knits/全成形针织物 120
0 F9 k( N0 v8 I* v Y" ` 11.3 Warp knits/经编针织物 121
; x4 V; ^/ l4 ]& r3 F. B3 T 11.3.1 Tricot fabrics/特里科经编针织物 121
* w, W, f4 d2 ^: N3 w4 s 11.3.2 Raschel fabrics/拉舍尔经编针织物 122/ R% y" t D6 b: I
11.4 Performance and characteristics/性能和参数 122
! d6 {# n/ u9 K" s0 n X Questions/思考题 123' u$ _$ R- k6 A$ t1 `& g
Chapter 12 Nonwoven Fabrics/非织造布 124% ~: I6 e2 c/ U& L% \8 Y
12.1 Introduction/导论 1248 h9 | N8 c7 e7 H! t6 u. s8 [
12.2 Manufacturing methods/生产方法 1255 n8 F% N) b' O. @3 {$ F+ W
12.2.1 Dry laid system/干法成网 125
$ @3 Y. C: W" [" k 12.2.2 Wet laid system/湿法成网 125
- ?# r# l- O# [. @0 j 12.2.3 Polymer laid system/聚合物挤压法 125
$ b4 F" H7 [& l' o 12.3 Various nonwovens/各种非织造布 125! U; `; S8 X# b- x( g. t
12.3.1 Needle punched nonwovens/针刺法非织造布 125: u- o% D; T t6 ~
12.3.2 Bonded web nonwovens/黏合法非织造布 126/ b$ [1 b5 u3 Y2 x) K& q; i8 S' F
12.3.3 Spunlaced nonwovens/射流喷网法非织造布 127
' x+ L+ N) a! l: f- ^5 F 12.3.4 Spunbonded nonwovens/纺粘法非织造布 128
9 M5 Q3 }5 e2 C9 M9 r6 h2 S# p 12.3.5 Melt-blown nonwovens/熔喷法非织造布 1296 q) P! `5 l% {; A/ n; L. V( G3 |
Questions/思考题 129: Z2 t+ r; h1 }0 q( q- Z# D3 v
Part Ⅴ Textile Testing/纺织品测试 130
3 g" j- }- f! D. J8 B/ a2 ` Chapter 13 General Test Methods/常规测试方法 130
1 {2 q% k# j6 Y9 l 13.1 General fiber tests/纤维常规测试 130
4 o1 F$ {4 U& @' s9 ?8 @# |. R- E 13.1.1 Fiber identification/纤维鉴别 130' E" \7 d9 p! s' z( c4 [* w9 Y# C( p
13.1.2 Fiber length/纤维长度 134
8 K {& E2 C- f8 Y r 13.1.3 Fiber fineness or linear density/纤维细度或线密度 135" h2 k% X9 E$ J) u# x1 i
13.1.4 Cross-sectional shape/截面形状 135# d$ A) s G* M
13.1.5 Crimp/卷曲 135' k& R( e! P1 H9 A9 G
13.1.6 Regain/回潮率 136; p, D' l- t( z( A$ H7 O. g' w
13.1.7 Mechanical properties/机械性能 136
2 Y+ X6 ]9 z( N W- I5 j. ` 13.1.8 Chemical characteristics/化学性能 1365 O1 D8 d/ Z. ^( Y7 T! x6 B
13.1.9 Surface characteristics/表面性能 136
9 F% e7 s7 Y* S 13.1.10 Density and specific gravity/密度和相对密度 137
0 Q) ^4 a8 q8 g3 U8 q 13.2 Special tests for natural fibers/天然纤维的测试 137
1 |$ e7 T) _4 r2 {: p 13.2.1 Tests for cotton/棉纤维测试 137* }8 T4 f5 D M0 O1 |3 v, g; |
13.2.2 Tests for wool/毛纤维测试 139
; H* J1 C4 P9 t7 ^* \8 _ 13.3 Testing of tensile properties/拉伸性能测试 140
4 t( E, K- \; Q- f; j 13.3.1 Description of tensile proprieties/拉伸性能的描述 141$ A5 B% R/ ]: E# q: M' q( j
13.3.2 Fiber and yarn tensile testing/纤维和纱线拉伸性能的测试 146# k3 j! Q0 L& J: Z9 D: \; Z
13.3.3 Fabric tensile testing/织物拉伸性能测试方法 147
* }2 N' P9 `6 h. k; P G Questions/思考题 149
+ Q- g! S# ?% t* L C7 ~$ } Chapter 14 Fabric Abrasion and Pilling/织物磨损与起球 150
; J% O: J! F- |2 ^ z; A1 ]( n 14.1 Types of abrasion/磨损的类型 150/ `6 C( @* D$ f% ]4 O5 M% [
14.1.1 Abrasion between fabrics/织物间的磨损 1502 X& Q7 n/ h; l0 l
14.1.2 Abrasion between fabric and a nontextile surface/织物与非纤维制品表面磨损 150
]0 J" ~! z+ _8 n% ^ 14.1.3 Abrasion within fabric/织物内部磨损 1510 ?' u- i; R; C7 O+ x
14.1.4 Abrasion by foreign materials within the fabric/与织物内部其他材料的磨损 151
/ x" l7 ^& f% M7 w 14.2 Factors affecting fabric abrasion resistance/影响耐磨性能的因素 151: d+ a( x5 G% e! W
14.2.1 Fabric properties/织物性能 151& F/ x5 B! F; l; c. Y7 k9 M$ c
14.2.2 Other factors/其他因素 153- r; @7 q n* m3 G/ f) y, z1 Q* ~
14.3 Abrasion testing/磨损测试 154) s" \/ v$ L1 M- _* n4 I
14.3.1 Visual comparison with an unabraded specimen/与未磨损样品视觉对比 154
) _1 h. n& A7 t8 v 14.3.2 Number of cycles to produce a hole/产生磨损破洞需要的摩擦圈数 1549 @% s% L5 f. y
14.3.3 Change in a physical property/物理性能的变化 154
) \4 @9 O! I3 J8 C# ` 14.3.4 Microscopic examination/显微镜观测 155" B6 b E3 A5 Y. q0 p6 Z
14.4 Aesthetics of abrasion and wear/穿着和磨损对美感的影响 155
, p+ z) ]+ I7 c) Q0 l( l* q1 C 14.4.1 Color changes caused by abrasion/磨损引起的颜色变化 155
' t. Q* S$ L5 I) q* k* N 14.4.2 Pilling/起球 156$ p3 G$ d' q9 [5 r; A
Questions/思考题 157
. |7 s; j- Z& T+ n2 e4 ? Chapter 15 Fabric Hand and Drape/织物手感与悬垂 158
7 Y' T/ q: _0 ^; `6 y 15.1 Fabric hand/织物手感 158
: R/ x3 i1 S( f 15.2 Fabric drape/织物悬垂 159% }/ |2 s9 R7 y' Y
15.3 Measurement of hand and drape/手感与悬垂的评价 161
, `9 D( k7 Q; E$ s) n) \" w 15.3.1 Subjective evaluation/主观评定法 161; t. w# J: F! Q* Y7 g" O$ o
15.3.2 Quantitative measurement/定量评定法 162
* L3 x; P! D- A8 G 15.3.3 Kawabata evaluation system/KES评定法 163
! l) L% p% B( h9 x8 K5 r Questions/思考题 163
6 O6 ~% J' Q2 ?9 u Chapter 16 Fabric Colorfastness/织物染色牢度 164
7 R- E: | n' T& | 16.1 Evaluation of color and colorfastness/颜色和染色牢度评定方法 164
7 a5 Y* [: C/ N' _+ r+ | B 16.2 Colorfastness tests/染色牢度测试 164
" c/ Q' a% X5 { 16.2.1 Colorfastness to crocking/耐摩擦色牢度 164; w1 B% }7 W' x# P
16.2.2 Colorfastness to laundering and bleaching/耐洗涤和耐漂白色牢 1651 f! a F& F% A& i1 ~4 I
16.2.3 Colorfastness to drycleaning/耐干洗色牢度 166- E* n& \, w8 \4 h2 E7 \0 G
16.2.4 Colorfastness to perspiration/耐汗渍色牢度 166
0 v2 _3 k! h- j 16.2.5 Colorfastness to water/耐水浸色牢度 1669 E. G! [5 t% [0 _5 z* q
16.2.6 Colorfastness to light/耐光照色牢度 1674 F, b5 t" ?- _$ {
16.2.7 Colorfastness to atmospheric contaminants/耐空气污染色牢度 168
! y! Z, b( s7 h: z Questions/思考题 1688 D# n% B! j$ @" a! G: V0 N. |7 c/ w
Chapter 17 Fabric Flammability/织物可燃性 169
4 S5 r i6 W- h/ b( @, F1 U2 h 17.1 Flammability standards/可燃性标准 169
$ z- H6 b+ ~+ O 17.2 Properties affecting flammability/影响可燃性的因素 169
: ^( T; O1 z' {' ]: Y 17.3 Flammability testing/可燃性测试 171
8 R/ D/ `3 h* r8 Z4 Q 17.3.1 Forty-five degree angle test/45°燃烧测试法 171
# m/ W! m* e3 Y6 M: c3 L$ ` 17.3.2 Vertical flame tests/垂直燃烧测试法 1728 R- V0 a) ~2 u' m* a% @
17.3.3 Carpet testing/地毯测试 172
& i, |( K1 ^/ q) P 17.3.4 Cigarette tests/卷烟点燃测试 172# F! H) b/ d+ r+ ^* j ~8 S, C
17.3.5 Other standard flammability tests/其他可燃性测试 173' @0 \! j7 |) n6 y, E
Questions/思考题 173
+ w' p6 i6 c$ ?+ t Chapter 18 Comfort of Textiles/纺织品舒适性 174
# z2 Y6 i3 z2 Z0 ]0 w3 `$ Y 18.1 Physical phenomena affecting thermal comfort/影响热舒适性能的物理现象 1742 v) P( j. _: k6 A; X% J
18.1.1 Heat transfer/热传递 1744 Z4 G6 ?+ ?) ?2 h8 t( r7 F5 W T
18.1.2 Moisture transfer/湿传递 175
' O2 x# ~5 U( t6 v- F ^% o 18.1.3 Water resistance/抗水性 175
2 j7 F, Q, P5 ?4 a9 j 18.1.4 Air transfer/透气性 176
! }6 m/ X+ Z7 R* W' Q" Q 18.1.5 Porosity and cover factor/多孔性和覆盖系数 176, D. _, A2 Q& Q- j: L! |6 [9 C
18.1.6 Electrostatic propensity/静电 177$ w% f+ ?# v( z5 Z; s/ H! T- r
18.2 Evaluations of textile properties related to comfort/与舒适性相关的纺织品性能评价 177
# V. i5 I# h/ `: Z- K. ^ 18.2.1 Heat transfer/热传递 178! Q5 u1 K. ]9 H7 B- F- M
18.2.2 Moisture properties/湿传递性能 1793 \. N0 m! ^+ C( {( }/ D
18.2.3 Air permeability/透气性 179
* x; B- R( t. u) |% g2 Q9 a 18.2.4 Porosity/孔隙率 180
4 x" ^- \! p! m3 ` ~: v2 n$ T 18.2.5 Electrostatic tests/静电测试 180
, p! s9 y1 y. s# |3 K Questions/思考题 1803 T2 K% }7 D: a: F9 x# t! v
Appendix/附录 181
2 R/ T8 U6 g+ a2 g! ?! {1 @! P; W2 c AATCC:AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS/美国纺织化学家与染色家协会 181
" B8 @3 |0 U" J2 M8 T, G: _! j) ^ ASTM:AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR TESTING AND MATERIALS/美国材料试验学会 184
4 p4 \$ j5 b% f6 j: SVocabulary/词汇表 1893 |) j/ B' T/ V2 d$ M! x
References/参考文献 1972 n) N S3 o+ T4 Z8 H2 h
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