
纺织材料学(双语教材),刘妍,熊磊,PDF。普通高等教育“十一五”国家级规划教材(本科),纺织工程专业双语教材,电子目录,14M。
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9 W, D% ^8 `" M0 O. ^+ g内容提要+ }2 U6 }" D {6 l( C! b1 g. ?
本书讨论了纤维、纱线与织物(包括机织物、针织物及非织造布)的结构、机械性能、物理性能及使用性能。涉及的纤维势括天然纤维(如棉、毛、麻、丝等)、传统化学纤维及新型化学纤维。本书同时介绍了纤维、纱线和织物的各种标准测试方法(包括国际上常用的ASTM, AATCC及GB等方法),并讨论了与各种测试方法有关的测试原理及对测试结果的影响因素。
) O/ |, ?2 U5 B/ A2 d本书可供高等纺织院校纺织、服装相关专业的本科生及研究生作为《纺织材料学》的双语教材或专业英语教材,也可供其他专业师生、纺织贸易专业人员和科研及生产单位的技术人员参考。
2 O3 v; F' M# {/ ~5 m( U目录
+ D: ^% R' F. {5 {- [0 [Part Ⅰ An Introduction to Textiles/纺织入门 18* L4 g4 i/ A/ Y7 j" _& S0 J
Chapter 1 Introduction/介绍 18
0 K9 J3 f& l$ Y6 q 1.1 ASTM Standard Terminology Relating to Textiles/ASTM纺织标准术语 18. h/ ]! j9 o! ~- I E, _2 w7 ]* _# R
1.2 Fiber history/纤维历史 26
5 p- Y& }3 h; ~5 x% |/ o/ z: E$ H 1.2.1 Natural fibers/天然纤维 26
2 ?. [$ [8 w9 ?& w! y! Q% i7 S 1.2.2 Man-made fibers/化学纤维 27
/ J g& k$ W- i8 r2 r$ f Questions/思考题 30
) I, c7 c8 k: b8 bPart Ⅱ Textile Fibers/纺织纤维 324 W6 c1 W- @$ P) t; E0 I
Chapter 2 Natural Cellulosic Fibers/天然纤维素纤维 32
$ {3 [; |$ d% Q, K e7 o; m/ I+ i 2.1 Cotton/棉 33
9 \4 \! h6 p6 S6 v: N2 F( J 2.1.1 Nature of cotton/棉花的种类 33
6 M; \; j! M0 P* B& D% ] 2.1.2 Classification/分类 34( ]; {1 S/ a, ?4 h+ h' Q- ]' F* O! o
2.1.3 Growth and structure of cotton/棉纤维的生长与结构 34: y; v s- x9 E7 u! X* y
2.1.4 Maturity/成熟度 36
1 c# }& g- m( `# l1 ^ n, Y1 X8 J! L 2.1.5 Cotton properties/棉纤维的性能 38
% H2 K3 D6 x( \6 h 2.1.6 Cotton classification/棉花分级 39: c$ g& y0 a- H
2.2 Bast fibers/韧皮纤维 40
! E/ P. `4 O2 \: v- f+ i _ 2.2.1 Flax (linen)/亚麻,亚麻织物 41
* \+ j2 d9 S$ f `' [, t 2.2.2 Ramie/苎麻 43
0 l5 g- N! b* f' e1 L0 C, S4 T. k 2.2.3 Hemp/汉麻 44; O/ S' n& w* {- x& m
2.2.4 Jute/黄麻 44
( I, F; r1 ]' M% s/ ~ Questions/思考题 45, F) j' _6 I3 C7 G* `
Chapter 3 Natural Protein Fibers/天然蛋白质纤维 46
0 z, r5 |: b& ? 3.1 Wool/绵羊毛 46
2 V" ]) z5 s+ ^: c$ ^- t- J" k: j M 3.1.1 Wool production and history/羊毛生产和历史 46
% F, p3 z, D' E) @6 v- j* P; F* U 3.1.2 Wool grading/羊毛分级 47& {* Y. C3 p6 @# O" q
3.1.3 Wool structure/羊毛结构 47
8 Y* f ?' c( R/ T, L4 l6 K [ 3.1.4 Wool properties/羊毛性能 48
B, Q/ t, i1 e% Q8 s 3.2 Specialty animal fibers/特种动物毛 51
1 R# F. a: C/ O; N. W# ~ 3.3 Silk/丝 52
j$ c5 Y9 O; X1 G) Z3 V' b Questions/思考题 54
1 R, G) K! s6 [ Chapter 4 Man-made Fibers/化学纤维 551 j$ A5 Z/ y3 ]* S6 G6 X9 B# F
4.1 Manufacturing processing of fiber/纤维生产工艺 55
O2 p2 F1 R- ], u; I 4.1.1 Wet spinning/湿法纺丝 56$ w. b$ x. O' E; F
4.1.2 Dry spinning/干法纺丝 56* O8 H( S) c( f+ {6 a4 p
4.1.3 Melt spinning/熔体法纺丝 56
0 N1 L, `2 |/ L 4.1.4 Gel spinning/凝胶纺丝 57
' r' P1 }' }1 N( Y. m4 o 4.2 Regenerated fibers/再生纤维 57
, j" R P7 _4 ]: q/ L 4.2.1 Acetate/醋酯纤维 57
8 q. ?3 a' L. w2 O; ^ 4.2.2 Triacetate/三醋酯纤维 59/ Z% f2 n. I2 z4 }
4.2.3 Viscose fibers/粘胶纤维 595 P4 T, |3 e" t( Z
4.3 Synthetic fibers/合成纤维 60- z% P I- |$ W. s% a0 e3 |$ ^
4.3.1 Acrylic/腈纶 60
; t9 k3 R8 v5 v& O# d 4.3.2 Modacrylic/改性腈纶 61
2 g p" K9 K/ z& l: } 4.3.3 Nylon/锦纶 61" i y* |, ^5 z
4.3.4 Polyester/涤纶 62+ S, {4 H/ P K/ H
4.3.5 PBI/聚苯并咪唑纤维 63
- F5 F+ k- q2 I 4.3.6 Vinal/聚乙烯醇纤维 63
( H/ j: Y/ I! {, }2 q 4.3.7 Olefin/聚烯烃纤维 63
& H( V7 c4 j7 g+ } 4.3.8 Aramid/芳纶 64
: Z9 L8 z. ]: A T8 H, x! O5 ` 4.3.9 Lycra/莱卡 64+ F3 B+ W* U' j. b% \1 Z& w
4.4 Other man-made fibers/其他化学纤维 66
! b, ^3 [% ?# Z) N- f 4.4.1 Glass/玻璃纤维 66) F$ [* x4 Z$ ?6 r
4.4.2 Metallic/金属纤维 67& z; o$ c( H2 u& @7 n
Questions/思考题 67
( |) o! E% v6 l) o# p5 x Chapter 5 New Fibers/新型纤维 68
* s+ f8 C0 D; u 5.1 Carbon fibers/碳纤维 68
1 Z1 q2 g/ P I1 H: ?: k7 g 5.2 Fluorocarbon/氟碳纤维 68
4 {; A5 f; q0 a 5.3 Lyocell fibers(Tencel)/莱塞尔纤维 682 t+ R+ H0 N ]7 X5 b0 c+ b
5.4 High-wet-modulus fibers/高湿模量纤维 69
7 M9 `' y0 O' N9 V" `. M9 M 5.4.1 Modal fibers/莫代尔纤维 69
. h4 d0 W+ p; y. ~- Q 5.4.2 Richcel/丽赛纤维 70
& G& c! [" m5 m' d; ? `7 h8 S 5.5 Soybean protein composite fibers/大豆蛋白复合纤维 70
5 U' S' x1 A: l. d# I+ V 5.6 PLA fiber/聚左旋乳酸纤维 71
) e, `/ i3 L6 o4 x& U! u 5.7 Heterogenous fibers/复合纤维 71
1 d% p7 Z$ E6 H/ m' Q 5.7.1 Bicomponent or multicomponent/双组分或多组分 72( ~) u( ^+ c% K. z, _8 y
5.7.2 Biconstituent or multiconstituent/双成分或多成分 73
, V( ^0 D9 E: A- X0 a+ c" t. P 5.7.3 Matrix or matrix-fibril/基质型纤维 73
1 P5 {0 k: s; g" ^4 ?& `, f 5.8 Differential fibers/差别化纤维 747 X& r$ c. R! i. Z% v8 Y
5.9 Functional fibers/功能性纤维 74- ^+ N% G4 Z) o2 r8 K. I
5.10 High performance fibers/高性能纤维 74 `; z* k7 e0 |; r+ B( W
Questions/思考题 74
; ]! M# z6 y" t( G! E; |( Z3 \ Chapter 6 The Property of Absorbing Moisture/吸湿性 75
/ |0 M6 f5 b( R7 `& c+ a 6.1 Orientation and crystallization/取向与结晶 756 K6 A: V K/ y
6.2 Moisture sorption/吸湿性 75) F) t, X$ ~% q2 ^
6.2.1 Regain and moisture content/回潮率与含水率 75, l* X$ n" }( I. Z& c1 ^
6.2.2 Relation between regain and relative humidity/回潮率与相对湿度的关系 758 h0 l0 w0 [, A! I: i
6.2.3 Comparison of various materials/不同材料吸湿性的对比 766 F5 |* _# a& i k( a7 j
6.2.4 Theories of moisture sorption/吸湿理论 78
. g9 `" u. j L Questions/思考题 80
! u+ d5 @% I1 _3 o8 b Chapter 7 Other Physical Properties of Textile Fibers/纤维的其他物理性能 81& K% i% W$ K* b5 [; h% @: V2 W/ C
7.1 Electronic properties/电学性能 81. I# A, ^$ e% M4 r3 P1 y
7.1.1 Definitions/定义 819 _! |: J& @& q8 f+ F
7.2 Optical properties/光学性能 82
! z+ t0 ?" M4 I 7.3 Thermal properties/热学性能 83$ M7 \6 i3 A: [% S0 t9 ?( Q5 J
7.3.1 Thermal parameters/热力学参数 83' [( L/ M( p1 N8 O: f
7.3.2 A comparison of temperature effects/温度效应比较 83
7 U, v$ @1 H/ I4 Y3 Y Questions/思考题 83
5 b/ s9 H8 u5 k2 P( N0 s3 TPart Ⅲ Textile Yarns/纺织纱线 84
2 t8 i: N( v, R8 G; J( d9 W Chapter 8 Yarn Processing and Construction/纱线制造与结构 845 i! E9 T9 N9 T! B# A
8.1 Spun yarns/短纤纱 85! O0 a8 w( }. x0 M3 [1 f# F
8.2 Filament yarns/长丝纱 859 Q$ H& j& M+ ^) g$ k
8.3 Methods of yarn processing/纺纱方法 85
3 E2 S* [3 O2 L0 K+ t# @4 g 8.3.1 Ring-spinning/环锭纺 86# l6 ?$ ~# e) ]: e1 D" ?
8.3.2 New methods of yarn processing/新型纺纱方法 86' ]1 p7 y* H5 \) K6 G
8.4 Single and ply yarns/单纱和股线 89
9 s! ^. F: I' i1 } s( E3 v 8.5 Special types of yarn/特种纱线 900 M0 N' X8 X$ ~& { [
8.5.1 Fancy yarns/花式纱 90; s( d8 o# p. G6 R4 ~
8.5.2 Stretch yarns/弹力纱 911 K) B7 D' `5 K n
8.5.3 Textured yarns 变形纱线 91
# S; y; p$ `1 f/ s; I9 U6 y/ ]/ t 8.6 Blends and mixtures yarns/纱线混纺与混用 924 U( E+ d# [7 A5 R: Z. g+ q& y
Questions/思考题 93# i# o* G7 V+ G8 m4 r" p$ S
Chapter 9 Yarn Properties/纱线性能 945 R- l r; S; q! S+ z
9.1 Yarn number/纱线细度 94+ U! W' {* T; z
9.1.1 Denier system/旦数 94
" }! X5 V! S. g& W4 _! P 9.1.2 Yarn count system/纱线英制支数 94+ K% ^% m& n I4 m
9.1.3 Tex system/线密度 95! }7 H. }! }8 W9 O9 Q% |/ ~: B
9.1.4 Metric numbering system/公制支数 95 A0 Z* y% E* e; l+ {: t0 O3 }
9.1.5 Conversion in different systems/不同系统之间的换算 95
1 R0 l' |* n4 o h( M7 c 9.2 Ply yarn counts and singles equivalent/股线支数与单纱支数 95, C8 t3 N: l! Z2 n/ X' U/ \* M
9.3 Yarn twist/纱线捻度 96
0 K( s2 R* C# x V8 Z, x1 N 9.4 Yarn hairiness/纱线毛羽 97+ j+ K+ y, s. t4 q
9.4.1 Hairiness test method/毛羽测试方法 98
7 ]2 t4 L/ Q2 \+ T# s! k1 Y 9.4.2 Factors affecting hairiness/影响毛羽的因素 98
7 J" M) a$ P; A 9.5 Yarn unevenness/纱线不匀 99
! a: A9 V9 l$ N" n 9.5.1 Test of yarn unevenness/纱线不匀的测试 993 _; @$ x, p& P
9.5.2 Reasons for yarn unevenness/纱线不匀的原因 100
. t8 L+ m- g: Z/ E 9.6 Classification of yarn quality/纱线质量分析 1005 t: i$ W5 V M. k9 M
Questions/思考题 100
% g& ]) E0 v2 A7 f/ SPart Ⅳ Textile Fabrics/织物 102
9 ~# R+ y: Y' c6 x6 v' R/ M Chapter 10 Woven Fabrics/机织物 102
" v. m9 s! W: K# M/ D1 l 10.1 Making woven fabrics/织制机织物 102
7 r' c8 \5 P$ s' B) o 10.1.1 The loom/织机 102
+ U/ i: {4 P4 K( U( k* v7 [. h 10.1.2 Loom type/织机类型 104! q) E$ K& O' J3 S: a0 [. C5 S
10.1.3 Loom motions/织机运动 104
6 k" D8 Y: }/ n$ x+ R 10.1.4 Electronics in weaving/电子技术在织机中的应用 105
; y d' _ C6 g1 V4 N 10.1.5 The selvage/布边 105
0 ?/ u+ d5 X: e; [4 j* k4 I 10.2 Warp yarns and filling yarns/经纱和纬纱 105
: b3 ~5 A; k c9 B9 H% |$ O. o' T$ M 10.2.1 Identification/鉴别 106
3 x$ _; `$ Z6 g; A' u: L* ` 10.3 Face and back/正面与反面 106
2 [1 f1 H) b2 G 10.3.1 Reasons for differenee/存在差异的原因 107( {# c, o. d' _& S% {1 j
10.3.2 Caution/应用的要点 107
8 r/ s% D: ?4 R- y5 v+ U# C/ ^ 10.4 Top and bottom/顶端和底端 107+ p# R3 r- @: J& \1 z, Y
10.4.1 Reasons for difference/存在差异的原因 107! g) B" a1 t( H# U2 t, S$ C
10.5 Weave floats/组织浮线 108; O" t, D% D; L' B
10.6 Basic weaves/基本组织 108
' \' ^1 a& l+ P. v$ i6 c8 o' d 10.6.1 Plain weave/平纹组织 108
. [& s. O ]/ A9 Z- T' k* x 10.6.2 Twill weave/斜纹组织 109+ \- m3 `0 W6 Y( z# w0 o6 ~4 P9 F" v: ~
10.6.3 Satin weave/缎纹组织 1116 I8 {' ~8 e! [7 L& i6 R
10.7 Fabric performance and characteristics/织物性能和参数 112
* ? V! i$ x/ Y8 M 10.7.1 Fabric width/幅宽 112% E4 t4 L5 T" J% B+ }. l: L& n9 z3 h
10.7.2 Fabric weight/织物重量 112
8 Q& M5 c% v( J4 _4 ?; Z; y7 E! r 10.7.3 Fabric thickness/织物厚度 113
% v U: W# D9 \. Z 10.7.4 Fabric density/织物密度 113
% r$ d2 L3 Q B2 o/ n$ T+ b: o# n0 o. Y 10.7.5 Fabric count/织物经纬密度 113
: r0 N+ a$ ? k# d3 [' Z 10.7.6 Fabric defects/织物疵点 113
8 U' E' u# {. {. }% c Questions/思考题 113! T' l" S( Z" }% `! U" n; E( q9 R4 E
Chapter 11 Knitted Fabrics/针织物 1143 V, W1 x& O, t9 |# l" b
11.1 Making of knitted fabric/针织物形成 1140 b/ \! V8 I9 F) Z9 h
11.1.1 The forming of knitted stitches/线圈的形成 114* T& M+ o C( a/ f' z6 N m
11.1.2 Types of knitted stitches/线圈的种类 116, R6 P. j% A2 ]
11.2 Weft knits/纬编针织物 117' W8 c [1 d( a3 x5 [/ Z& \3 r
11.2.1 Jersey knit fabric/纬平针织物 117
+ |# T' j8 @; f" q 11.2.2 Rib knit fabric/罗纹针织物 118
. ~. E4 p1 o+ `+ u! S W6 k* ]" C 11.2.3 Purl knit fabric/双反面针织物 119
) M. P5 ^; C g0 k" [ 11.2.4 Double knits/双面针织物 1202 Y, ?. A& T6 j/ ]6 ~8 S
11.2.5 Full-fashioned knits/全成形针织物 1202 m* g$ T: Y, d: {" ]5 X) ^5 @
11.3 Warp knits/经编针织物 121
1 O; o* y" w% S; o3 C# N! ]6 A 11.3.1 Tricot fabrics/特里科经编针织物 121' [5 _2 n4 V# W$ F* R- s( n' P
11.3.2 Raschel fabrics/拉舍尔经编针织物 122/ A) N5 j& D# w9 v4 l9 i& M
11.4 Performance and characteristics/性能和参数 122
8 D; H, j. `/ \# c Questions/思考题 123
* y" ^7 C: t, k Chapter 12 Nonwoven Fabrics/非织造布 124
9 z; Q/ G2 z5 o& J2 @8 X 12.1 Introduction/导论 124/ L: W* I7 u9 Q w2 W N! S
12.2 Manufacturing methods/生产方法 1251 x3 Y% e" y) H5 U' o! x# W
12.2.1 Dry laid system/干法成网 125. a9 e& G- a( H, w" x% E" y
12.2.2 Wet laid system/湿法成网 125$ z: x4 `# g9 X% \
12.2.3 Polymer laid system/聚合物挤压法 125+ M3 W$ b0 @6 u! l% f3 k
12.3 Various nonwovens/各种非织造布 125 ~5 o4 t5 S$ p: ?) I8 w8 l' K
12.3.1 Needle punched nonwovens/针刺法非织造布 125
* k- @' u% @8 U+ H" K2 O z! `# q 12.3.2 Bonded web nonwovens/黏合法非织造布 126$ Q8 Z8 ~& N2 m; B+ H
12.3.3 Spunlaced nonwovens/射流喷网法非织造布 127
) R1 c, |6 K3 y1 p/ C 12.3.4 Spunbonded nonwovens/纺粘法非织造布 128
) A6 f0 L$ Y H6 e( W! k) r 12.3.5 Melt-blown nonwovens/熔喷法非织造布 129
6 w( J! G7 y9 U9 Q$ w Questions/思考题 129
/ k/ k3 \ o5 J* fPart Ⅴ Textile Testing/纺织品测试 130
. Z2 d2 S8 ^9 D Chapter 13 General Test Methods/常规测试方法 130
7 B6 J" _( l- I2 d; l 13.1 General fiber tests/纤维常规测试 130/ z: y& D% s$ Z( J5 G
13.1.1 Fiber identification/纤维鉴别 1309 {4 Y8 M4 J& D6 P
13.1.2 Fiber length/纤维长度 134
3 z- Y" }' C* A. g 13.1.3 Fiber fineness or linear density/纤维细度或线密度 1357 b4 \5 c8 `8 p1 L. [! r3 D6 G
13.1.4 Cross-sectional shape/截面形状 135
/ S3 b7 g' |6 `* Q3 @- a 13.1.5 Crimp/卷曲 135
2 H8 }- Z& ~6 t% h' @. L- O, o: |7 m" n 13.1.6 Regain/回潮率 136
% G0 ], P ?1 I. r I 13.1.7 Mechanical properties/机械性能 136" A+ K$ f8 G1 z0 G2 i( i1 W: J
13.1.8 Chemical characteristics/化学性能 1361 j# x8 h' @2 ]
13.1.9 Surface characteristics/表面性能 136$ E, M3 P X5 O- i7 n
13.1.10 Density and specific gravity/密度和相对密度 137
7 F" c# B' x+ i9 Q 13.2 Special tests for natural fibers/天然纤维的测试 137
( X- k0 ]; X8 ]1 x6 S f 13.2.1 Tests for cotton/棉纤维测试 137
5 }4 r9 x; p! d 13.2.2 Tests for wool/毛纤维测试 139( d9 d" Y& F# i! Y# v* i9 R) q
13.3 Testing of tensile properties/拉伸性能测试 140& K% E" K$ R* _2 ~
13.3.1 Description of tensile proprieties/拉伸性能的描述 141, @) X, n+ A: N+ t) n& h
13.3.2 Fiber and yarn tensile testing/纤维和纱线拉伸性能的测试 146. J$ Z, F2 L7 f' s
13.3.3 Fabric tensile testing/织物拉伸性能测试方法 147
+ a4 s" t5 {* M3 w4 U* A Questions/思考题 149# \1 I. E' E; a
Chapter 14 Fabric Abrasion and Pilling/织物磨损与起球 150
* P) R/ i0 B' _ 14.1 Types of abrasion/磨损的类型 150
1 c( C0 s p9 x1 b 14.1.1 Abrasion between fabrics/织物间的磨损 150
9 E, r. g; H' s7 T' T! q; W* Y 14.1.2 Abrasion between fabric and a nontextile surface/织物与非纤维制品表面磨损 150
+ Q5 _& b% w1 P2 d" x 14.1.3 Abrasion within fabric/织物内部磨损 151( r: ]: _7 }5 e( @% y7 B2 {) j; {
14.1.4 Abrasion by foreign materials within the fabric/与织物内部其他材料的磨损 151
- U5 T2 Y- ]3 o; L; x5 d 14.2 Factors affecting fabric abrasion resistance/影响耐磨性能的因素 151
% G) E% F2 L. ~2 D. I5 R 14.2.1 Fabric properties/织物性能 151
4 ^, V2 Q0 Z0 r H, q5 H 14.2.2 Other factors/其他因素 1532 }, G4 u1 G7 @5 I& M: n
14.3 Abrasion testing/磨损测试 154
4 r& I- m( D6 F9 @, {% k; D 14.3.1 Visual comparison with an unabraded specimen/与未磨损样品视觉对比 154
$ Y B: u; Y5 ~5 o+ S8 r3 q 14.3.2 Number of cycles to produce a hole/产生磨损破洞需要的摩擦圈数 1549 N4 [& B3 b9 K# ?/ N8 Z$ H' O3 a/ o
14.3.3 Change in a physical property/物理性能的变化 154
3 a* ^7 z' v5 A u* o) E 14.3.4 Microscopic examination/显微镜观测 155
0 @5 q8 G5 q- C0 S& @ 14.4 Aesthetics of abrasion and wear/穿着和磨损对美感的影响 155
# g: u, Y; L: G5 T. s0 } 14.4.1 Color changes caused by abrasion/磨损引起的颜色变化 155
) r* |7 Z9 x6 E( i3 I 14.4.2 Pilling/起球 156
0 K" W" [3 L- M8 U' Y! u7 ~ Questions/思考题 157
+ g6 g Y7 O; i) y' p Chapter 15 Fabric Hand and Drape/织物手感与悬垂 158
8 _" U* O6 I0 F7 o$ X 15.1 Fabric hand/织物手感 1586 r! k' _2 k0 \
15.2 Fabric drape/织物悬垂 159
- Z0 F) u4 `* @5 ?2 v6 b0 K" D 15.3 Measurement of hand and drape/手感与悬垂的评价 161
/ ^( o! X9 {0 w3 G/ q2 ^5 n 15.3.1 Subjective evaluation/主观评定法 161
7 G" f5 i2 d8 s" }# R3 ] 15.3.2 Quantitative measurement/定量评定法 162
/ F9 G1 o+ S `+ g7 v- C- g 15.3.3 Kawabata evaluation system/KES评定法 163
u9 s, {1 z, D7 _4 ~* S Questions/思考题 163
2 O4 K# H4 M W3 W) k7 S. C Chapter 16 Fabric Colorfastness/织物染色牢度 164& M B6 G1 s+ |4 T' q) y
16.1 Evaluation of color and colorfastness/颜色和染色牢度评定方法 164% N S* V/ Z& y$ ~. N
16.2 Colorfastness tests/染色牢度测试 164
" G2 _( w# G! E' v4 }, b- p 16.2.1 Colorfastness to crocking/耐摩擦色牢度 164 i* n# g* k, P+ @" i! }) U
16.2.2 Colorfastness to laundering and bleaching/耐洗涤和耐漂白色牢 1656 y% E0 s% @; Z+ Q8 ?, v
16.2.3 Colorfastness to drycleaning/耐干洗色牢度 166
- F* }1 y; {& S B 16.2.4 Colorfastness to perspiration/耐汗渍色牢度 166
6 U% g& r/ y5 ? 16.2.5 Colorfastness to water/耐水浸色牢度 166
3 r3 s1 B* i! m* B f; t6 @* G 16.2.6 Colorfastness to light/耐光照色牢度 167/ O0 n' w" N( T
16.2.7 Colorfastness to atmospheric contaminants/耐空气污染色牢度 168
1 | f j$ }" f( t6 X Questions/思考题 168
* C# n& w+ d1 J2 r9 W/ l Chapter 17 Fabric Flammability/织物可燃性 169
2 p0 U- ?$ B+ m7 _, E5 L7 j 17.1 Flammability standards/可燃性标准 169
$ C8 W3 z' T+ f4 v+ x 17.2 Properties affecting flammability/影响可燃性的因素 169
& h( l, T% ? d* C7 Y" w; M4 t 17.3 Flammability testing/可燃性测试 171- E5 J2 J# }- E
17.3.1 Forty-five degree angle test/45°燃烧测试法 171
( B8 G2 N3 a3 H3 Y$ ? 17.3.2 Vertical flame tests/垂直燃烧测试法 172- g; T8 c# m* e5 ?1 z# `
17.3.3 Carpet testing/地毯测试 172
* i; j4 K! P6 X# s 17.3.4 Cigarette tests/卷烟点燃测试 172
+ s# C& f( Y+ F/ j, B 17.3.5 Other standard flammability tests/其他可燃性测试 173
`; w) Z, ]0 ~7 H) a+ @- l1 Y7 z" T Questions/思考题 173
, X/ W- k% F+ ?% n$ d( L Chapter 18 Comfort of Textiles/纺织品舒适性 174) Y* D' V5 M5 |# B6 \+ b0 T
18.1 Physical phenomena affecting thermal comfort/影响热舒适性能的物理现象 1741 z0 ]2 U s1 M( I }
18.1.1 Heat transfer/热传递 1747 [* g! l3 C! j7 f; {
18.1.2 Moisture transfer/湿传递 175
% Z! e. F4 B) I, A @ 18.1.3 Water resistance/抗水性 175
* G4 c) ~. ~( l1 S K# t 18.1.4 Air transfer/透气性 1767 `- {/ R: e& W5 v; k1 b4 s
18.1.5 Porosity and cover factor/多孔性和覆盖系数 176
! s! J. Q% K- u6 Q 18.1.6 Electrostatic propensity/静电 177
5 k7 ~. q) ~, \" d 18.2 Evaluations of textile properties related to comfort/与舒适性相关的纺织品性能评价 177% i3 u6 Z$ L1 v- d" D" X( X
18.2.1 Heat transfer/热传递 178: C) m% s; s$ t( E
18.2.2 Moisture properties/湿传递性能 179
- J6 b$ _6 k- [" u! q# V7 o7 G& M 18.2.3 Air permeability/透气性 1791 y5 M, \! j5 C% k" K
18.2.4 Porosity/孔隙率 180
) h; ]; H9 @+ a 18.2.5 Electrostatic tests/静电测试 180
8 c& }' M- d% t2 o3 z Questions/思考题 180, \( C( L" v: Q+ Y+ z: m
Appendix/附录 181: U+ g! d' q9 q
AATCC:AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS/美国纺织化学家与染色家协会 1811 c/ m; P+ D3 d/ L _
ASTM:AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR TESTING AND MATERIALS/美国材料试验学会 184
" @8 E" i3 S# v! ?. L/ |* _: SVocabulary/词汇表 189
) Z# B& E. @* n/ Z5 M: t @! o8 w% LReferences/参考文献 1978 J; O$ j. \! A8 a% J @
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