
纺织材料学(双语教材),刘妍,熊磊,PDF。普通高等教育“十一五”国家级规划教材(本科),纺织工程专业双语教材,电子目录,14M。
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内容提要4 i+ K, E2 n8 k% ?0 t/ n: n
本书讨论了纤维、纱线与织物(包括机织物、针织物及非织造布)的结构、机械性能、物理性能及使用性能。涉及的纤维势括天然纤维(如棉、毛、麻、丝等)、传统化学纤维及新型化学纤维。本书同时介绍了纤维、纱线和织物的各种标准测试方法(包括国际上常用的ASTM, AATCC及GB等方法),并讨论了与各种测试方法有关的测试原理及对测试结果的影响因素。! Q& q( C* U" q3 s" {( s6 y
本书可供高等纺织院校纺织、服装相关专业的本科生及研究生作为《纺织材料学》的双语教材或专业英语教材,也可供其他专业师生、纺织贸易专业人员和科研及生产单位的技术人员参考。/ C- d/ ~8 R! G* D8 T: V" W6 J9 J/ H
目录
1 y# ^5 O# l4 Q8 C' pPart Ⅰ An Introduction to Textiles/纺织入门 18
! [8 H3 \: S; I; T: ?! N5 \- e Chapter 1 Introduction/介绍 18
3 s8 |/ n% F) e' X 1.1 ASTM Standard Terminology Relating to Textiles/ASTM纺织标准术语 185 e; ~! s1 Q* o0 u8 n0 b
1.2 Fiber history/纤维历史 26: c7 v& O0 p0 _) L5 d/ n) `" x
1.2.1 Natural fibers/天然纤维 26. u, r' [6 \& h/ C: V7 _5 t
1.2.2 Man-made fibers/化学纤维 27
$ @, o. z( e! G5 ?' N/ ^5 D* W/ a Questions/思考题 30
+ U* S6 t! W9 \* k3 KPart Ⅱ Textile Fibers/纺织纤维 325 W t$ n0 c# s! E' T' R
Chapter 2 Natural Cellulosic Fibers/天然纤维素纤维 32
1 `3 Z9 q6 u* L/ N4 ]" X+ J# p 2.1 Cotton/棉 335 n; N4 Z. v% T: T4 w! p
2.1.1 Nature of cotton/棉花的种类 33
( ]% ]' F8 e8 \! w8 U 2.1.2 Classification/分类 34) n, _ L k; P' d
2.1.3 Growth and structure of cotton/棉纤维的生长与结构 34
) e4 a* `! ~+ @! A 2.1.4 Maturity/成熟度 365 ]8 A+ m' n4 r2 J% u: }+ O
2.1.5 Cotton properties/棉纤维的性能 38
" E+ Q: g6 a5 \4 f 2.1.6 Cotton classification/棉花分级 39- U1 [; @7 c# Q. B. a4 h2 Z
2.2 Bast fibers/韧皮纤维 40/ L. T( I# j1 O. X
2.2.1 Flax (linen)/亚麻,亚麻织物 41
- O1 O" }3 Q. M+ @2 I) u" c. ~ 2.2.2 Ramie/苎麻 43
0 U1 r+ }7 [; j8 p& U9 Q 2.2.3 Hemp/汉麻 44; I( ]# s3 c k. }2 }; W
2.2.4 Jute/黄麻 44
) `% j# ^* d1 T" K! z' | Questions/思考题 45, z( m9 b5 H! b: P# P& X+ ^) Y' d3 Z8 Y+ O
Chapter 3 Natural Protein Fibers/天然蛋白质纤维 46
9 q# a4 \9 J# E, L) |- ? 3.1 Wool/绵羊毛 46+ |* q% g& p& V9 ]* M8 x/ @
3.1.1 Wool production and history/羊毛生产和历史 46
( e1 s* m" Q$ C+ g1 C 3.1.2 Wool grading/羊毛分级 476 N9 `+ q: o- S3 x% M
3.1.3 Wool structure/羊毛结构 47
, u- d9 X1 J& x( |) b, J7 g 3.1.4 Wool properties/羊毛性能 48
- {+ e" e% i' ~" Y0 ~& v% d. H 3.2 Specialty animal fibers/特种动物毛 51
) n% W' I$ I6 B# Y t: C 3.3 Silk/丝 529 _7 {$ S" a" N% J
Questions/思考题 54
) V/ R5 ^( \7 O, C Chapter 4 Man-made Fibers/化学纤维 55
5 r$ Y) b( q) H* Z 4.1 Manufacturing processing of fiber/纤维生产工艺 55. P' c" H3 z7 L3 e4 U& h3 e
4.1.1 Wet spinning/湿法纺丝 56/ c d \+ N" ^7 Y' k
4.1.2 Dry spinning/干法纺丝 56
, I5 C" J p9 p0 ]4 j 4.1.3 Melt spinning/熔体法纺丝 56' M% k8 s3 s* q( t/ k5 B
4.1.4 Gel spinning/凝胶纺丝 57! V7 ]( A& q; W6 s
4.2 Regenerated fibers/再生纤维 57 M# ?- n5 Z' k/ c' r& a7 g% w
4.2.1 Acetate/醋酯纤维 577 Z8 o3 ]4 g N4 |! Y
4.2.2 Triacetate/三醋酯纤维 59' u! F6 @3 ]. p- U" }/ U
4.2.3 Viscose fibers/粘胶纤维 59! X& U0 O( A. Y( {( o# H5 ?
4.3 Synthetic fibers/合成纤维 60
5 R* H; O T3 p# G/ v- }# j( p( Z 4.3.1 Acrylic/腈纶 601 e) E* X: j" D3 |; P' t
4.3.2 Modacrylic/改性腈纶 610 k( ^0 g5 y* {4 {6 j
4.3.3 Nylon/锦纶 61
( B! x, O2 ~* A, ~, g 4.3.4 Polyester/涤纶 62. i- @2 E F3 B
4.3.5 PBI/聚苯并咪唑纤维 63) h) h- O# p$ a' ~/ W. X9 k
4.3.6 Vinal/聚乙烯醇纤维 63% b, w+ F2 U( _* r) e* W
4.3.7 Olefin/聚烯烃纤维 63
* S; e3 J4 a" m. `# w/ } 4.3.8 Aramid/芳纶 64
. [) ?3 |' W4 q2 _! O2 j9 t' s. \ 4.3.9 Lycra/莱卡 64
" W# i3 r1 v7 s8 e1 c. c B 4.4 Other man-made fibers/其他化学纤维 66
# F( _' I$ @3 ~* c 4.4.1 Glass/玻璃纤维 66' \7 {7 }- [; b4 [3 l
4.4.2 Metallic/金属纤维 67
" g) Q! j0 d/ }3 n Z+ l L Questions/思考题 678 H- }. W' `/ N$ d2 C5 f2 V
Chapter 5 New Fibers/新型纤维 689 \ d& W9 M/ Q* P, U9 o* }, ~) D2 p
5.1 Carbon fibers/碳纤维 68
. \" i* G. K% v: R, U8 p2 x 5.2 Fluorocarbon/氟碳纤维 68
2 w7 i3 F! ~- Z3 K! L$ j 5.3 Lyocell fibers(Tencel)/莱塞尔纤维 684 q7 h( R! [( S
5.4 High-wet-modulus fibers/高湿模量纤维 69
, U. h% }+ z& r 5.4.1 Modal fibers/莫代尔纤维 69) o, _ l" O8 H
5.4.2 Richcel/丽赛纤维 70
9 p0 p D; U6 Y3 z: T) r 5.5 Soybean protein composite fibers/大豆蛋白复合纤维 709 m9 e: m+ E, x* B7 `0 L
5.6 PLA fiber/聚左旋乳酸纤维 71
9 v/ |5 J3 A+ C2 F 5.7 Heterogenous fibers/复合纤维 71
2 s( ^$ f" N$ h" a 5.7.1 Bicomponent or multicomponent/双组分或多组分 72
?/ K8 Q) U5 K$ V6 F: B 5.7.2 Biconstituent or multiconstituent/双成分或多成分 73
0 ]: ]! s- q+ t- N3 G# ~; b( O 5.7.3 Matrix or matrix-fibril/基质型纤维 73
( v0 }* R \8 j+ W Y2 n 5.8 Differential fibers/差别化纤维 74
: d7 E) y* p# A: G 5.9 Functional fibers/功能性纤维 74
5 e/ ]5 G9 l/ I3 a! |- \6 ~" L% ~ 5.10 High performance fibers/高性能纤维 747 k" R% g2 a! y7 t, b* U" e) O
Questions/思考题 745 B8 d. `2 o- S. V
Chapter 6 The Property of Absorbing Moisture/吸湿性 75
& G* y- l7 P: P% j 6.1 Orientation and crystallization/取向与结晶 754 f# Z( X' @6 k0 J Q0 U
6.2 Moisture sorption/吸湿性 75
6 c8 i/ V; [' C. Z O8 P 6.2.1 Regain and moisture content/回潮率与含水率 75
+ R0 V, b9 ~/ ^+ i ^ f; X 6.2.2 Relation between regain and relative humidity/回潮率与相对湿度的关系 75/ M1 o1 r `' R1 w1 S$ L
6.2.3 Comparison of various materials/不同材料吸湿性的对比 76
! a! Y8 b" Z) @" \" V 6.2.4 Theories of moisture sorption/吸湿理论 78
8 I' Y& G) s- S/ w9 m) U Questions/思考题 802 q. V; @5 y6 N* e. c3 z1 B6 a) R8 u
Chapter 7 Other Physical Properties of Textile Fibers/纤维的其他物理性能 81) ]6 g" c4 X+ D2 w' I6 O" l. T# R
7.1 Electronic properties/电学性能 811 ~2 e2 |3 M6 ^$ m1 E
7.1.1 Definitions/定义 81# R V3 ^( @* ~8 q: s# x T" ?4 b
7.2 Optical properties/光学性能 82
8 a7 t+ Q! ^8 Y9 @6 F* X! o, p 7.3 Thermal properties/热学性能 83
! ?$ P6 u1 j+ z0 q+ d, P/ j 7.3.1 Thermal parameters/热力学参数 83# s2 o' a2 M/ Q3 {& ~3 @/ @
7.3.2 A comparison of temperature effects/温度效应比较 83 S: k4 y9 m* o0 z3 c' a; \7 X1 \
Questions/思考题 83+ o9 k# t( G+ ~3 y+ e" O
Part Ⅲ Textile Yarns/纺织纱线 84
& p( J2 e3 Q0 [; w. r Chapter 8 Yarn Processing and Construction/纱线制造与结构 84
" ^$ Y- T; g) b7 l6 R 8.1 Spun yarns/短纤纱 85
- t2 x3 s* \+ R 8.2 Filament yarns/长丝纱 85: C* |# e2 P! @
8.3 Methods of yarn processing/纺纱方法 857 {/ M$ p; z. |2 h; C% i7 r
8.3.1 Ring-spinning/环锭纺 861 k- \4 E; ^& V9 f
8.3.2 New methods of yarn processing/新型纺纱方法 86
7 P1 E% j; x' f1 R+ ^ 8.4 Single and ply yarns/单纱和股线 89# N$ J2 M* ?7 i6 J3 Q! D: p, C( Y( ^
8.5 Special types of yarn/特种纱线 90
& f7 ^. }4 m' b 8.5.1 Fancy yarns/花式纱 90
2 s" b* |) o5 B. _3 N' o& w 8.5.2 Stretch yarns/弹力纱 91
0 W' k8 w& i0 o* }0 L$ ? 8.5.3 Textured yarns 变形纱线 91
7 s. @6 J# u* ?4 X8 c, K 8.6 Blends and mixtures yarns/纱线混纺与混用 92
2 |, \% q" E, x1 G Questions/思考题 93
* ^8 P' r& r6 }9 \& y4 q Chapter 9 Yarn Properties/纱线性能 94
9 ]) E, M; e& ~ ?* Y+ s8 j# a2 ~ L* d 9.1 Yarn number/纱线细度 94
9 N5 W: n/ h7 G6 U- I8 P6 I 9.1.1 Denier system/旦数 94
5 t" |% B! |( r7 @: \9 c9 p$ ` 9.1.2 Yarn count system/纱线英制支数 94
, w9 P# t6 ]# O9 h5 a/ Y4 H7 k 9.1.3 Tex system/线密度 95
3 B( l" l3 t8 {& A 9.1.4 Metric numbering system/公制支数 95
( A. y5 t6 D4 f x5 K \; Q8 Q: j: r 9.1.5 Conversion in different systems/不同系统之间的换算 952 |/ C- j d1 ], y4 z
9.2 Ply yarn counts and singles equivalent/股线支数与单纱支数 950 _, k8 n; `" @ `/ i
9.3 Yarn twist/纱线捻度 96
* ^3 Y S3 _( |# `/ E 9.4 Yarn hairiness/纱线毛羽 97
' \7 u- q& c: f: N+ E6 u) c 9.4.1 Hairiness test method/毛羽测试方法 98
* }7 n- \7 I% ]8 C; ` l 9.4.2 Factors affecting hairiness/影响毛羽的因素 98
. @* Q7 x8 x# T 9.5 Yarn unevenness/纱线不匀 99; A0 o+ m/ C. V# ]. i* Q8 U0 x8 w
9.5.1 Test of yarn unevenness/纱线不匀的测试 99
9 v6 x1 d" C+ O2 n1 B( q$ R# F 9.5.2 Reasons for yarn unevenness/纱线不匀的原因 100
6 V; R0 _8 D" ^/ F2 }* U 9.6 Classification of yarn quality/纱线质量分析 100. T( o' B4 @/ a! U& V, B% d
Questions/思考题 100$ O4 ~+ y& B2 d( P- M% T0 m
Part Ⅳ Textile Fabrics/织物 102: v( v2 x4 b q
Chapter 10 Woven Fabrics/机织物 102
# C8 G; R, }- E1 X! w1 ~4 H 10.1 Making woven fabrics/织制机织物 1025 Y% G: Y9 J$ m! F- x( N
10.1.1 The loom/织机 1021 U/ H# u5 ?$ L9 _1 w) U1 O& m
10.1.2 Loom type/织机类型 104
" c2 |- `& i6 i# j/ p: G 10.1.3 Loom motions/织机运动 104
( b, l4 O2 R6 t) O3 t5 R" S 10.1.4 Electronics in weaving/电子技术在织机中的应用 105
+ k+ I8 n6 Q Z3 l) V5 a) { 10.1.5 The selvage/布边 105. \# K4 a. a5 l! D. m) y
10.2 Warp yarns and filling yarns/经纱和纬纱 105
- G2 p \) D, r: S 10.2.1 Identification/鉴别 106
/ g; a9 W0 m/ Y1 @+ ?7 C 10.3 Face and back/正面与反面 106& X5 b! G' R) T& t/ y& z
10.3.1 Reasons for differenee/存在差异的原因 107
[& I0 O5 o) E" N3 J% x) q: e% u 10.3.2 Caution/应用的要点 107
0 H" _% t+ I& q- [) S: H 10.4 Top and bottom/顶端和底端 107
3 ^3 c. {3 e0 Z7 ]1 }3 _, n$ [- U 10.4.1 Reasons for difference/存在差异的原因 107
0 A! w9 L/ j, |0 Q) X# K/ r 10.5 Weave floats/组织浮线 108" P9 z4 w T$ a4 `
10.6 Basic weaves/基本组织 108( o* {* D' ^* I
10.6.1 Plain weave/平纹组织 1086 G6 }, @* e# y& p8 t, i
10.6.2 Twill weave/斜纹组织 1095 z/ F1 u2 @7 S3 t
10.6.3 Satin weave/缎纹组织 1110 G1 R6 v) P2 {7 {. u+ d
10.7 Fabric performance and characteristics/织物性能和参数 112
1 h) ~: i2 b" b. h u 10.7.1 Fabric width/幅宽 112
v2 M! n0 M& ~ 10.7.2 Fabric weight/织物重量 112
2 C7 n- k" w, X& j 10.7.3 Fabric thickness/织物厚度 113
$ F- ^5 |5 t! b9 v6 Y q( a 10.7.4 Fabric density/织物密度 1138 \% d' Y8 R7 U! O+ |6 F) N4 C/ F5 ]
10.7.5 Fabric count/织物经纬密度 113
8 Y# F$ n* V/ v 10.7.6 Fabric defects/织物疵点 113
@% s% U1 G& x3 z {3 \/ Q G Questions/思考题 113, ]3 E* u3 i6 {
Chapter 11 Knitted Fabrics/针织物 114+ G3 v+ } E' j( R2 ]( z
11.1 Making of knitted fabric/针织物形成 1145 V8 N9 x* i. ^- e, S2 h/ ?: Q! f3 N9 ?
11.1.1 The forming of knitted stitches/线圈的形成 114
% X2 \: i6 J7 I! U4 E 11.1.2 Types of knitted stitches/线圈的种类 116
' C" x& A) L$ n3 W 11.2 Weft knits/纬编针织物 1173 r- \% g8 E% [$ R8 h* n5 ]
11.2.1 Jersey knit fabric/纬平针织物 117
2 U* i+ q1 m1 `; s$ d 11.2.2 Rib knit fabric/罗纹针织物 118
. M' h2 G0 m0 P3 F; J 11.2.3 Purl knit fabric/双反面针织物 119
" i5 j! ~' Q, L; q 11.2.4 Double knits/双面针织物 120
0 f- u# t) |! D 11.2.5 Full-fashioned knits/全成形针织物 120
. d0 d5 B# [( w+ v9 U a$ a: E 11.3 Warp knits/经编针织物 121/ `- `& j. r3 H+ H* R
11.3.1 Tricot fabrics/特里科经编针织物 121! g* m+ k) Q4 a6 V, o1 _5 p, N, g' Z1 e
11.3.2 Raschel fabrics/拉舍尔经编针织物 1224 e/ s+ J8 {, \8 U, |3 I$ j% \
11.4 Performance and characteristics/性能和参数 122
" t- m& E% I; D& J: Q. r0 \4 V Questions/思考题 123
6 |1 B- L. r4 a. ^2 n$ Q8 L Chapter 12 Nonwoven Fabrics/非织造布 124
% ^. T7 N# M+ v6 U 12.1 Introduction/导论 124! q1 O# g. R" ^8 t8 g$ C' v! _
12.2 Manufacturing methods/生产方法 1253 w2 V; O* ]$ n9 ~! v1 p% w
12.2.1 Dry laid system/干法成网 1250 r, b) f6 ^/ }9 V: B' c
12.2.2 Wet laid system/湿法成网 1259 _$ a9 M8 ?. K6 N% ?5 i, k
12.2.3 Polymer laid system/聚合物挤压法 125( L' ~2 x' _) p8 U! @- z! z
12.3 Various nonwovens/各种非织造布 125
, D& r+ P5 j2 _ 12.3.1 Needle punched nonwovens/针刺法非织造布 125* p$ Z3 H- L8 Q* T
12.3.2 Bonded web nonwovens/黏合法非织造布 1261 H; r, D9 W! Z" \
12.3.3 Spunlaced nonwovens/射流喷网法非织造布 127
7 G4 J' b9 [, m, \ n$ P 12.3.4 Spunbonded nonwovens/纺粘法非织造布 128# g: F" t9 B1 n4 l& D: k* K
12.3.5 Melt-blown nonwovens/熔喷法非织造布 129
" S8 E' H7 D1 Z' x! P Questions/思考题 129
7 M3 x$ {0 u* w. f- i YPart Ⅴ Textile Testing/纺织品测试 130
/ \1 M' S9 ], N* N4 f- n Chapter 13 General Test Methods/常规测试方法 130
7 C. Q: c0 k/ J8 @) H" k 13.1 General fiber tests/纤维常规测试 130
2 C$ Y, O" a; G6 V- E( N 13.1.1 Fiber identification/纤维鉴别 130+ H! S _* k, n) ^9 e* ?5 m) D
13.1.2 Fiber length/纤维长度 134/ w8 ]9 k# U: ^2 Z, o' O
13.1.3 Fiber fineness or linear density/纤维细度或线密度 1353 I; X' Q# |- U: P- V
13.1.4 Cross-sectional shape/截面形状 135
% V( Q3 Z ]3 I: D& I4 } 13.1.5 Crimp/卷曲 135
% e% [ {* m9 @. ^' t6 Z; r 13.1.6 Regain/回潮率 136- ^) L6 i+ V D0 o6 m- u
13.1.7 Mechanical properties/机械性能 136
% a; |8 F) M2 O/ A# a- ~" y) ^0 D; O 13.1.8 Chemical characteristics/化学性能 1368 J% M! }" i `9 t- ^% e, ]. N
13.1.9 Surface characteristics/表面性能 136/ V3 o2 \' q: H, b( `
13.1.10 Density and specific gravity/密度和相对密度 137# z }0 M* P& F/ _5 k
13.2 Special tests for natural fibers/天然纤维的测试 137
9 y5 w' M- D0 P- Y! b& _( ` 13.2.1 Tests for cotton/棉纤维测试 137
1 W& q9 S. L$ O* l 13.2.2 Tests for wool/毛纤维测试 139 y2 i2 A; u: E( [
13.3 Testing of tensile properties/拉伸性能测试 140 T, k' s5 d; u+ T: H- G# Z& C
13.3.1 Description of tensile proprieties/拉伸性能的描述 1411 r `7 n4 i% R5 T* ]# l
13.3.2 Fiber and yarn tensile testing/纤维和纱线拉伸性能的测试 146+ @ ~2 k4 w) j- C
13.3.3 Fabric tensile testing/织物拉伸性能测试方法 147/ Z, s& @7 H5 x7 Y6 c' b7 b
Questions/思考题 149
3 U! \% e4 p8 W* d+ k) E2 g Chapter 14 Fabric Abrasion and Pilling/织物磨损与起球 150
# J1 ^9 t0 S4 K" Z 14.1 Types of abrasion/磨损的类型 150# j7 \$ I0 J6 Z# z; M! o# y5 Y# @, L
14.1.1 Abrasion between fabrics/织物间的磨损 150
& k o' [+ y0 I# I$ g; f1 T8 p 14.1.2 Abrasion between fabric and a nontextile surface/织物与非纤维制品表面磨损 150
0 }$ B( X) w( u2 w4 ~5 [' n 14.1.3 Abrasion within fabric/织物内部磨损 1513 B; h; \% n9 D
14.1.4 Abrasion by foreign materials within the fabric/与织物内部其他材料的磨损 151- |% ^* I3 b0 M! x# D5 d% y; Y; T+ i
14.2 Factors affecting fabric abrasion resistance/影响耐磨性能的因素 151% {$ `1 U! j& O3 r
14.2.1 Fabric properties/织物性能 151
7 l) v# c3 T$ ] q9 A# s: A# {! J2 Y 14.2.2 Other factors/其他因素 153
9 o- n2 e. M1 V8 @# J* k; P 14.3 Abrasion testing/磨损测试 154
) z2 j4 M- L6 o: _3 N! m9 u% `8 o 14.3.1 Visual comparison with an unabraded specimen/与未磨损样品视觉对比 154
3 O2 [2 n" O; F$ o4 H. o+ L2 c 14.3.2 Number of cycles to produce a hole/产生磨损破洞需要的摩擦圈数 154
0 M7 r/ p1 K* e7 l, e) G9 L 14.3.3 Change in a physical property/物理性能的变化 154
& |! Q; u; c V; u6 I5 v) D# Z 14.3.4 Microscopic examination/显微镜观测 155
# Y: ]% z8 O! B4 G) D2 V/ {/ c' n 14.4 Aesthetics of abrasion and wear/穿着和磨损对美感的影响 155
/ |) o" t" j- {( I" C 14.4.1 Color changes caused by abrasion/磨损引起的颜色变化 155
; f1 J% \2 }# w2 g( q 14.4.2 Pilling/起球 156+ |( O9 l4 |2 ~& y$ p0 t( @+ M
Questions/思考题 157! T* Y: _- ]/ m6 l
Chapter 15 Fabric Hand and Drape/织物手感与悬垂 158
+ f! u% i3 n7 B 15.1 Fabric hand/织物手感 158
' O y5 y8 W2 [- k% A5 R, b7 R; @5 b 15.2 Fabric drape/织物悬垂 159
5 t! Q. n: U/ ]- R! \2 M& { 15.3 Measurement of hand and drape/手感与悬垂的评价 161
+ C) D* F4 s4 w) J 15.3.1 Subjective evaluation/主观评定法 161
0 Q3 ^5 z# J9 N 15.3.2 Quantitative measurement/定量评定法 162
, J0 [9 B, ?* i+ e# ~3 g) v 15.3.3 Kawabata evaluation system/KES评定法 1636 S! ^: d5 x. F" }6 L0 F8 V
Questions/思考题 163& X: o5 F) f* U
Chapter 16 Fabric Colorfastness/织物染色牢度 1646 @& \- V1 k" F+ r0 _; F
16.1 Evaluation of color and colorfastness/颜色和染色牢度评定方法 1641 f9 ?; t6 A" k, l. k8 ? k9 H7 Y, C
16.2 Colorfastness tests/染色牢度测试 1640 c1 i8 ~7 l) ?5 v ?( O5 L
16.2.1 Colorfastness to crocking/耐摩擦色牢度 164
; V( @' s# i* o5 {; Q 16.2.2 Colorfastness to laundering and bleaching/耐洗涤和耐漂白色牢 1656 S* W: S7 k- W% }2 V5 j5 K& l+ E
16.2.3 Colorfastness to drycleaning/耐干洗色牢度 166
$ y8 G1 f/ c, w: Z 16.2.4 Colorfastness to perspiration/耐汗渍色牢度 166
! Y, i2 a6 v& q/ E/ @ 16.2.5 Colorfastness to water/耐水浸色牢度 166+ ]6 g' B) C- s4 Y3 Q! [
16.2.6 Colorfastness to light/耐光照色牢度 167& Z E8 _% p8 F' O6 Q& ~0 m
16.2.7 Colorfastness to atmospheric contaminants/耐空气污染色牢度 168! p6 L7 N, M/ y
Questions/思考题 168; _& b5 o5 ~2 ~3 Q# s3 Q' B
Chapter 17 Fabric Flammability/织物可燃性 1693 A0 C0 H! i; [' [2 h" l& |
17.1 Flammability standards/可燃性标准 169
. S+ H; J/ j8 m) i5 T9 U0 t 17.2 Properties affecting flammability/影响可燃性的因素 169) B+ d$ g& T ]/ F
17.3 Flammability testing/可燃性测试 1716 ?8 R6 B r, d. c. w
17.3.1 Forty-five degree angle test/45°燃烧测试法 171
; j+ l$ T# W* o! x/ `- K4 K& k 17.3.2 Vertical flame tests/垂直燃烧测试法 172, H+ ^" U2 a8 c; \1 I! [3 ^! d0 } K
17.3.3 Carpet testing/地毯测试 1724 n% u' b; g1 u; Z
17.3.4 Cigarette tests/卷烟点燃测试 172, j# m: w! F- i
17.3.5 Other standard flammability tests/其他可燃性测试 173: Y" i F U! z4 l( t
Questions/思考题 173: h5 h7 s! ]# g" ^, L8 h4 Z3 P8 W
Chapter 18 Comfort of Textiles/纺织品舒适性 174
. v" l) }5 K/ s# f. i 18.1 Physical phenomena affecting thermal comfort/影响热舒适性能的物理现象 174
5 I; A# Y7 K# @( F3 N1 ]$ @ 18.1.1 Heat transfer/热传递 1745 }* C0 t% Q5 a# S# x7 }
18.1.2 Moisture transfer/湿传递 175
( S2 X* X! n' c5 W; k* A2 ^ 18.1.3 Water resistance/抗水性 175, b* ] h) W+ {( E! W6 W
18.1.4 Air transfer/透气性 176
7 X2 i) U# y- }4 V 18.1.5 Porosity and cover factor/多孔性和覆盖系数 176
8 o1 W) O6 o8 V0 O/ h0 u. `: H9 e7 i 18.1.6 Electrostatic propensity/静电 177
% x' b/ E% R' n/ u/ D 18.2 Evaluations of textile properties related to comfort/与舒适性相关的纺织品性能评价 177+ g, M- Y+ K( U
18.2.1 Heat transfer/热传递 178; u$ S( e% s# H, j* j" i, X
18.2.2 Moisture properties/湿传递性能 1793 c ^0 a2 C/ F0 T3 p
18.2.3 Air permeability/透气性 179
, C7 z0 o' z0 Y O% T 18.2.4 Porosity/孔隙率 180" T! _3 S5 Z5 D7 m6 ^, w
18.2.5 Electrostatic tests/静电测试 180
6 u: |; J t: s) Z; a Questions/思考题 180! S- T# S/ `" C6 X' h& s
Appendix/附录 1819 Q- U4 E8 j& i( t
AATCC:AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS/美国纺织化学家与染色家协会 181
/ A2 Q2 k0 a) B6 m. ]0 P$ ~ k ASTM:AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR TESTING AND MATERIALS/美国材料试验学会 184
7 ^9 M$ h5 g" tVocabulary/词汇表 189
0 y4 _) d& D& ~References/参考文献 1976 N9 `7 d# q) g$ ]" A1 S
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