
纺织材料学(双语教材),刘妍,熊磊,PDF。普通高等教育“十一五”国家级规划教材(本科),纺织工程专业双语教材,电子目录,14M。# e7 M3 ~7 `9 v F- }) x# q& J
, a M/ d, {, g' I" K: m内容提要8 j+ d8 C8 O9 H, U
本书讨论了纤维、纱线与织物(包括机织物、针织物及非织造布)的结构、机械性能、物理性能及使用性能。涉及的纤维势括天然纤维(如棉、毛、麻、丝等)、传统化学纤维及新型化学纤维。本书同时介绍了纤维、纱线和织物的各种标准测试方法(包括国际上常用的ASTM, AATCC及GB等方法),并讨论了与各种测试方法有关的测试原理及对测试结果的影响因素。
* x8 U' J5 O5 j本书可供高等纺织院校纺织、服装相关专业的本科生及研究生作为《纺织材料学》的双语教材或专业英语教材,也可供其他专业师生、纺织贸易专业人员和科研及生产单位的技术人员参考。4 Q6 q! ~% r+ F5 x4 ?
目录
1 ^' R( a/ F) \Part Ⅰ An Introduction to Textiles/纺织入门 18' ?* Q) M, [# L/ P
Chapter 1 Introduction/介绍 18
/ l& u$ D5 S; K0 Y- t8 x X 1.1 ASTM Standard Terminology Relating to Textiles/ASTM纺织标准术语 18
! }2 c* y* y) p% m 1.2 Fiber history/纤维历史 26
' {" F3 V2 U- x' i+ y/ R' U9 q 1.2.1 Natural fibers/天然纤维 26
}/ e; n( y9 X) f& {2 J/ c 1.2.2 Man-made fibers/化学纤维 27 Q8 H) Y% }$ p1 ]7 H( L, g' v+ i
Questions/思考题 30
& ?1 L- e* { v* |Part Ⅱ Textile Fibers/纺织纤维 32
+ l! m6 x$ l( S7 `% d Chapter 2 Natural Cellulosic Fibers/天然纤维素纤维 32+ J; [+ x" n: A; N
2.1 Cotton/棉 333 ^/ f2 h! x* B6 S
2.1.1 Nature of cotton/棉花的种类 33
9 {! H- r3 Y6 [$ |( A: {4 [ 2.1.2 Classification/分类 34
& d) k* p t \3 K! i) w 2.1.3 Growth and structure of cotton/棉纤维的生长与结构 34) C! \" T: P/ ]2 k
2.1.4 Maturity/成熟度 36
) V: i5 N* ?% M, S3 ] 2.1.5 Cotton properties/棉纤维的性能 38 S0 D8 v1 U6 W' y* @; [
2.1.6 Cotton classification/棉花分级 392 q ~+ W' C+ O, n9 B. c9 d
2.2 Bast fibers/韧皮纤维 406 ]4 c3 V) E7 G# q9 S/ D
2.2.1 Flax (linen)/亚麻,亚麻织物 41( _& j0 G$ z& j/ T6 n
2.2.2 Ramie/苎麻 43- r) I. M# M& s- y+ M+ G h- n: h
2.2.3 Hemp/汉麻 44
1 Y# ?9 T5 z! b* S* { 2.2.4 Jute/黄麻 44
( U& Z* g' g* {6 j Questions/思考题 454 q( u, z" H0 n; O
Chapter 3 Natural Protein Fibers/天然蛋白质纤维 46# d3 c, K# ~5 ^/ F- d8 {# |% [7 q
3.1 Wool/绵羊毛 46$ `0 z) o' j' ?5 _+ B( q% R
3.1.1 Wool production and history/羊毛生产和历史 46
4 O& [# C8 {# x8 y4 l( ]' F) Z- C& N( u 3.1.2 Wool grading/羊毛分级 476 T, r) e* w& @2 j* a; ~; O: U
3.1.3 Wool structure/羊毛结构 47
/ |+ B/ ]. _/ ]0 g- q0 u 3.1.4 Wool properties/羊毛性能 48
5 n2 s' g3 j# p* O% I 3.2 Specialty animal fibers/特种动物毛 51
' H' d( |' l r1 \* r Z 3.3 Silk/丝 52
; C. Y1 x! l D9 B# B Questions/思考题 54( u, \# r! D1 t3 G f
Chapter 4 Man-made Fibers/化学纤维 55! z1 Y v& R/ h6 k
4.1 Manufacturing processing of fiber/纤维生产工艺 55
3 h" E5 K; y/ v 4.1.1 Wet spinning/湿法纺丝 56
; |8 `4 ~/ ] S V% P: U 4.1.2 Dry spinning/干法纺丝 56
+ `6 x8 O6 Z; N2 h, j, n1 J6 ? 4.1.3 Melt spinning/熔体法纺丝 56
5 ?4 y" o/ s$ H e% V0 \ 4.1.4 Gel spinning/凝胶纺丝 57. c% O" s$ A/ w6 Y& f
4.2 Regenerated fibers/再生纤维 57( D7 Y) e- a: p/ R
4.2.1 Acetate/醋酯纤维 57
$ o9 w8 F( i: j0 c+ z 4.2.2 Triacetate/三醋酯纤维 59
6 i& X& B. c' g% X+ o q8 w8 N; e1 p 4.2.3 Viscose fibers/粘胶纤维 59# s5 p4 `- z1 i- W
4.3 Synthetic fibers/合成纤维 60* Y2 T8 r) b! l& r% x, l
4.3.1 Acrylic/腈纶 60
& |, s- V* t. F 4.3.2 Modacrylic/改性腈纶 612 R% p0 P+ E0 P
4.3.3 Nylon/锦纶 61
) [& o M2 A- g9 s2 M6 | 4.3.4 Polyester/涤纶 62
; A: ?1 d. \7 E( h, N1 ^$ C 4.3.5 PBI/聚苯并咪唑纤维 63
8 y3 n7 W7 D0 G. w- z 4.3.6 Vinal/聚乙烯醇纤维 634 T! d( [! X/ }$ ^! F P
4.3.7 Olefin/聚烯烃纤维 63 P" c' f/ Z; o% h+ L* g1 i
4.3.8 Aramid/芳纶 64
/ b+ U7 H! t$ h5 m8 l! E 4.3.9 Lycra/莱卡 64
' x, U8 y% X$ [: H, S6 B/ U 4.4 Other man-made fibers/其他化学纤维 66: ^( l+ G1 U7 g' S
4.4.1 Glass/玻璃纤维 660 w( f# w/ T) P: t5 b( Y9 [9 R9 M
4.4.2 Metallic/金属纤维 679 r% g( V$ _* z/ C$ i$ A4 |
Questions/思考题 679 ]6 N" l% N6 S! Z; [7 }
Chapter 5 New Fibers/新型纤维 68
3 K; G% A ?' H 5.1 Carbon fibers/碳纤维 68' C" p$ [ M( f4 \
5.2 Fluorocarbon/氟碳纤维 68( }$ b9 d# M$ J
5.3 Lyocell fibers(Tencel)/莱塞尔纤维 680 w6 u5 i' Z% g$ w
5.4 High-wet-modulus fibers/高湿模量纤维 69: ^) W% I0 u& P9 K% d% s
5.4.1 Modal fibers/莫代尔纤维 694 U S+ T( |3 f: a; J
5.4.2 Richcel/丽赛纤维 70
# V% p1 T5 I6 m4 z+ k" \ 5.5 Soybean protein composite fibers/大豆蛋白复合纤维 70- z, b; W& S Z8 n, L! @& `5 v1 V
5.6 PLA fiber/聚左旋乳酸纤维 71, h, _7 [9 O# S/ b/ v) K: U2 ?6 O
5.7 Heterogenous fibers/复合纤维 71
& b6 \! |4 W2 n7 O' d* F 5.7.1 Bicomponent or multicomponent/双组分或多组分 72
' H8 _7 X- q& C( I 5.7.2 Biconstituent or multiconstituent/双成分或多成分 73
1 _3 u& S2 v2 f4 e& A$ x! g' S1 ~: F 5.7.3 Matrix or matrix-fibril/基质型纤维 73
2 P9 w! K* v5 |/ b$ r, T4 w 5.8 Differential fibers/差别化纤维 749 b/ {3 ^$ I2 p1 K9 q6 D0 _' {
5.9 Functional fibers/功能性纤维 74
5 i5 H* D# t7 Y% m 5.10 High performance fibers/高性能纤维 74! s2 y3 I* H( N% O3 x- O
Questions/思考题 74
+ S+ r. j# a% B) ~2 d# f Chapter 6 The Property of Absorbing Moisture/吸湿性 756 z: G) f& n: l8 C/ M0 ]5 b
6.1 Orientation and crystallization/取向与结晶 75! H% y4 V+ w7 O/ X9 A5 c
6.2 Moisture sorption/吸湿性 75
- C" ], c6 s+ o: D0 T m8 S# H 6.2.1 Regain and moisture content/回潮率与含水率 75* P W- t" H3 n- f$ \
6.2.2 Relation between regain and relative humidity/回潮率与相对湿度的关系 75
- B' ^& c/ V! Z0 |$ S 6.2.3 Comparison of various materials/不同材料吸湿性的对比 767 _9 D( m' U$ d
6.2.4 Theories of moisture sorption/吸湿理论 78
L( P: W: o1 F7 g0 O Questions/思考题 800 `* w' x9 R9 G& o& j2 b8 f! B
Chapter 7 Other Physical Properties of Textile Fibers/纤维的其他物理性能 81! @$ |2 Y& F! G3 s- b
7.1 Electronic properties/电学性能 81& F3 Q7 w4 o3 Y9 S6 z# R# ^
7.1.1 Definitions/定义 81
- N/ }" m8 W) K 7.2 Optical properties/光学性能 82
& `% D, ~8 `; ]" P3 p8 q5 t! x 7.3 Thermal properties/热学性能 835 P, R; }: S, i# |/ m
7.3.1 Thermal parameters/热力学参数 839 ?' A: q, a+ d9 b. E9 c2 K9 T( Q o
7.3.2 A comparison of temperature effects/温度效应比较 83
0 o- g3 _# c- y) K: K6 P# B' ]5 Y9 p Questions/思考题 83$ J. [1 K- p! @* ~. Q$ O( p
Part Ⅲ Textile Yarns/纺织纱线 84$ i- z' o4 ^3 ?
Chapter 8 Yarn Processing and Construction/纱线制造与结构 84 X- T" G, j4 `3 @6 o2 f# z
8.1 Spun yarns/短纤纱 85
1 l; _8 Y% ]" N6 R1 V1 _/ |% s3 v 8.2 Filament yarns/长丝纱 85" l6 Z% N( n4 `6 x: ~8 p
8.3 Methods of yarn processing/纺纱方法 85
y( a( \7 y2 g+ |. Z 8.3.1 Ring-spinning/环锭纺 86
. j, n$ I% V$ D9 |# Y. t 8.3.2 New methods of yarn processing/新型纺纱方法 86
$ N9 [" q% V* ^% N 8.4 Single and ply yarns/单纱和股线 898 K' D2 [) @2 ~* T `' Y
8.5 Special types of yarn/特种纱线 90
# b- R3 h7 i' F8 O( Z8 i 8.5.1 Fancy yarns/花式纱 90
. K6 r7 C" J- g; m( r% u& @ 8.5.2 Stretch yarns/弹力纱 91! \, n+ l3 q( T! ]
8.5.3 Textured yarns 变形纱线 91
) r7 L7 w1 R+ P7 }8 f9 H 8.6 Blends and mixtures yarns/纱线混纺与混用 92
9 F' t) |8 D" C0 }9 M2 u$ i Questions/思考题 93/ g3 ^0 V6 Y2 H2 g& R6 e0 Q+ A [
Chapter 9 Yarn Properties/纱线性能 94; P& a5 g1 e- T- @$ J
9.1 Yarn number/纱线细度 94
" d# [% ^* w6 d. f8 `' ^ 9.1.1 Denier system/旦数 94+ s7 w% B: A) X4 |
9.1.2 Yarn count system/纱线英制支数 94
$ H+ i4 |- V% J! `5 r 9.1.3 Tex system/线密度 95
- {4 G7 y) e' M 9.1.4 Metric numbering system/公制支数 957 g7 b+ {. L2 X/ p' C- A
9.1.5 Conversion in different systems/不同系统之间的换算 95! {/ ~, f4 K- L1 T' _
9.2 Ply yarn counts and singles equivalent/股线支数与单纱支数 953 m- E9 {! q' p
9.3 Yarn twist/纱线捻度 962 m% k$ i# M8 a- ~4 C+ c5 ^) K
9.4 Yarn hairiness/纱线毛羽 97
3 e% b9 O0 e% a9 x; L! N+ W& i 9.4.1 Hairiness test method/毛羽测试方法 98
$ v6 K# _0 Z6 z+ r3 l8 R- e- k 9.4.2 Factors affecting hairiness/影响毛羽的因素 98
& \& e8 }) f( Y- H* X, C3 i" i4 P 9.5 Yarn unevenness/纱线不匀 99
9 Q7 l4 P- C- d: `2 J 9.5.1 Test of yarn unevenness/纱线不匀的测试 99
9 @1 ` D8 |: ` {: F 9.5.2 Reasons for yarn unevenness/纱线不匀的原因 100
6 a% ]( B' J; B+ {& F 9.6 Classification of yarn quality/纱线质量分析 100
, o/ d% H) t8 W6 }# K Questions/思考题 100! x) a& d( f9 G$ y; w* J* Y
Part Ⅳ Textile Fabrics/织物 102- B8 V. M9 ^# X5 Z
Chapter 10 Woven Fabrics/机织物 102
! T" z6 K% b+ C# q; }0 T# V+ s3 Z! l3 U 10.1 Making woven fabrics/织制机织物 1022 a, A% e8 \9 N
10.1.1 The loom/织机 1025 w/ ^7 Q) p, {, k
10.1.2 Loom type/织机类型 104
( M! F- P- B0 d- r, ~2 l 10.1.3 Loom motions/织机运动 104
4 O/ ]4 X" K& f 10.1.4 Electronics in weaving/电子技术在织机中的应用 105
9 f2 C( T9 b0 M. Y/ a 10.1.5 The selvage/布边 105
- p9 z9 Q" o Q& x( M. ^ 10.2 Warp yarns and filling yarns/经纱和纬纱 1053 m9 l w" S7 O! s# ?
10.2.1 Identification/鉴别 106) s. B7 Q! C, s* A( D# h: D9 |
10.3 Face and back/正面与反面 106
2 a* P6 z0 x) B6 i 10.3.1 Reasons for differenee/存在差异的原因 107
+ H6 }$ g% ?2 {* O A; D1 @ 10.3.2 Caution/应用的要点 107/ _1 A$ ~# u8 e }3 m% i
10.4 Top and bottom/顶端和底端 107
5 s; X5 \3 ?+ X" g" C* u' s 10.4.1 Reasons for difference/存在差异的原因 107% J# g/ g& K) M! m/ s
10.5 Weave floats/组织浮线 108. c/ u4 b* B, O K. G' m
10.6 Basic weaves/基本组织 108 s; w3 j! o8 j+ x& D3 u! Q
10.6.1 Plain weave/平纹组织 108# ^; W3 t. [' Q q- l1 J
10.6.2 Twill weave/斜纹组织 109
3 O7 |5 H0 e4 I5 |1 F6 C 10.6.3 Satin weave/缎纹组织 1112 Q9 a/ N* F% q5 B9 ~
10.7 Fabric performance and characteristics/织物性能和参数 112
6 i, Y6 K4 F, Q' p; V K 10.7.1 Fabric width/幅宽 1126 N! y' U! z# {4 m( F6 P( N2 L
10.7.2 Fabric weight/织物重量 1126 e& b W+ n* m4 x0 j: l* W1 T
10.7.3 Fabric thickness/织物厚度 1134 G+ T8 P0 e6 i/ R0 N1 q h: z
10.7.4 Fabric density/织物密度 113" a) A3 [! h8 h
10.7.5 Fabric count/织物经纬密度 113* x/ w! l/ X4 {2 r) K* C0 k% M9 `% m
10.7.6 Fabric defects/织物疵点 1137 ~8 l' F2 n$ C. V6 G2 {
Questions/思考题 113
4 t# m8 {3 ^" S Chapter 11 Knitted Fabrics/针织物 114
: t6 a, a* K! C! X; E# a 11.1 Making of knitted fabric/针织物形成 114
* O2 M+ b/ Y( a 11.1.1 The forming of knitted stitches/线圈的形成 114
6 i9 ^5 l& y& }: ? 11.1.2 Types of knitted stitches/线圈的种类 116
- ^0 q. u0 C$ n3 H' M3 t 11.2 Weft knits/纬编针织物 117
) }0 A1 j% `4 z3 ~0 v: ^ 11.2.1 Jersey knit fabric/纬平针织物 117
; i4 Y; d2 p; U1 U G 11.2.2 Rib knit fabric/罗纹针织物 118 s+ F, _, y3 |/ I
11.2.3 Purl knit fabric/双反面针织物 1192 d5 M. m7 T3 k" ^$ R
11.2.4 Double knits/双面针织物 120
' F% ^$ ^6 T6 j8 j 11.2.5 Full-fashioned knits/全成形针织物 1208 Z# h% i* X8 V5 n
11.3 Warp knits/经编针织物 1211 f" K+ S) R1 V% C$ F" T3 c
11.3.1 Tricot fabrics/特里科经编针织物 1211 f+ a$ Z) e( W$ q: W2 A3 r5 k
11.3.2 Raschel fabrics/拉舍尔经编针织物 122 _" v8 M& n- b0 j8 x& W1 K
11.4 Performance and characteristics/性能和参数 122- F+ a! y* j) H) }/ C" p
Questions/思考题 1233 _1 L2 _! O. U! L8 ~
Chapter 12 Nonwoven Fabrics/非织造布 124
. T _4 r# r! Z! n0 i3 c' H; [# p 12.1 Introduction/导论 124
! r( p+ O% ~1 l7 j9 E0 f6 ^1 f 12.2 Manufacturing methods/生产方法 125) h V7 u+ N8 `+ R4 H9 A
12.2.1 Dry laid system/干法成网 125
" a z# Y6 ]; v; a0 X 12.2.2 Wet laid system/湿法成网 125
, X* V1 \! Q" W9 f 12.2.3 Polymer laid system/聚合物挤压法 125# L* v2 K, v7 ?6 m* w# X
12.3 Various nonwovens/各种非织造布 125
" D) }5 e- t, A7 a 12.3.1 Needle punched nonwovens/针刺法非织造布 125
* t0 u/ |; Y% R3 e 12.3.2 Bonded web nonwovens/黏合法非织造布 126& E* d# P% L3 @- z
12.3.3 Spunlaced nonwovens/射流喷网法非织造布 127
$ A! U# q2 q3 @ 12.3.4 Spunbonded nonwovens/纺粘法非织造布 128
1 k5 i! x% ]+ o( O3 H! M 12.3.5 Melt-blown nonwovens/熔喷法非织造布 129
9 x8 ]8 g4 \: |- u! b) S Questions/思考题 129
: h0 t4 g z: b8 `3 x: ~# D" D' Y8 WPart Ⅴ Textile Testing/纺织品测试 1303 y7 U8 X4 W1 A
Chapter 13 General Test Methods/常规测试方法 130
. `$ ]$ ]2 L! i 13.1 General fiber tests/纤维常规测试 130( d; A8 L4 e: _* v8 x; F/ |
13.1.1 Fiber identification/纤维鉴别 130
% S6 }4 L: E$ ]( y" U) F. m 13.1.2 Fiber length/纤维长度 1347 z4 u6 z" a6 d1 Z* d5 [! ~5 @
13.1.3 Fiber fineness or linear density/纤维细度或线密度 1353 U2 i) D% Y# \/ A$ n/ }
13.1.4 Cross-sectional shape/截面形状 135
! e, c% y! }1 |! H5 B 13.1.5 Crimp/卷曲 135
# y) s: T7 R# T& ?- h, s 13.1.6 Regain/回潮率 1362 I* T6 P) a& L V( V
13.1.7 Mechanical properties/机械性能 1369 V! E9 r2 J& {$ }; D: ]$ F" K
13.1.8 Chemical characteristics/化学性能 136; t f& o" L8 V4 H! Q0 n) t* j
13.1.9 Surface characteristics/表面性能 1362 e f: g" W! v. A7 y
13.1.10 Density and specific gravity/密度和相对密度 137
+ `2 K; O/ M# c' q8 O. Y 13.2 Special tests for natural fibers/天然纤维的测试 137) x: r5 K1 D0 p
13.2.1 Tests for cotton/棉纤维测试 1372 Z& B" x( s h+ q. o, Q
13.2.2 Tests for wool/毛纤维测试 139
5 j7 C! }0 g# r6 K% E3 \3 ?, W 13.3 Testing of tensile properties/拉伸性能测试 140
' P y" K4 r, K 13.3.1 Description of tensile proprieties/拉伸性能的描述 141
# f; x: n2 j& q5 X5 f. v; r 13.3.2 Fiber and yarn tensile testing/纤维和纱线拉伸性能的测试 146* z6 f! ~! v# J: @1 y7 a
13.3.3 Fabric tensile testing/织物拉伸性能测试方法 147 L/ Z* W' a( H# R
Questions/思考题 1492 i9 T0 D; x' {; [. J6 |& o, _ S
Chapter 14 Fabric Abrasion and Pilling/织物磨损与起球 1505 @. E8 I: z$ j. E1 [+ ^
14.1 Types of abrasion/磨损的类型 150
: u! H( m# t, C& \ 14.1.1 Abrasion between fabrics/织物间的磨损 150% W' O4 B+ u2 V0 a1 d9 p
14.1.2 Abrasion between fabric and a nontextile surface/织物与非纤维制品表面磨损 1501 ?. F" u. f. ~, _) x8 e, Z
14.1.3 Abrasion within fabric/织物内部磨损 151( o3 c' |3 Y, L
14.1.4 Abrasion by foreign materials within the fabric/与织物内部其他材料的磨损 151
. R. z" v% S; `2 }" U0 V 14.2 Factors affecting fabric abrasion resistance/影响耐磨性能的因素 151 l Q5 I( a) l. ~1 W9 r9 F8 c
14.2.1 Fabric properties/织物性能 151
, U( G( i* u& f8 s# ^; A [+ v0 h3 B 14.2.2 Other factors/其他因素 153
7 d! s9 D9 q. G' j. o5 U 14.3 Abrasion testing/磨损测试 1546 v; { R6 s' K
14.3.1 Visual comparison with an unabraded specimen/与未磨损样品视觉对比 154
) b/ {0 ?5 D9 O2 u+ v 14.3.2 Number of cycles to produce a hole/产生磨损破洞需要的摩擦圈数 154. [- y8 G+ g' B) x2 [! h
14.3.3 Change in a physical property/物理性能的变化 154. X- \% ~% y# ~* U# G% J# z
14.3.4 Microscopic examination/显微镜观测 155* S+ z# E% g: X7 R* i P
14.4 Aesthetics of abrasion and wear/穿着和磨损对美感的影响 155; z% K" s; r- |$ i$ {2 o$ N
14.4.1 Color changes caused by abrasion/磨损引起的颜色变化 155* g+ P8 g: y+ l: d/ }# m
14.4.2 Pilling/起球 156
3 l& X" O8 U7 R- f% {" m7 h6 i Questions/思考题 157
! F; H8 n- z/ F: ^. i5 R _9 Q Chapter 15 Fabric Hand and Drape/织物手感与悬垂 158
2 V9 ^5 h5 O2 y D h1 C8 x8 `# L 15.1 Fabric hand/织物手感 1585 f4 i% l- M) R
15.2 Fabric drape/织物悬垂 159; u# q3 z. F$ B' _
15.3 Measurement of hand and drape/手感与悬垂的评价 161
3 ]9 w5 o) W2 T5 ^8 n+ c 15.3.1 Subjective evaluation/主观评定法 1617 p9 v* d' x5 t, N6 G. o) O
15.3.2 Quantitative measurement/定量评定法 162
5 N" X% w+ _: x& J) T 15.3.3 Kawabata evaluation system/KES评定法 163& m' r# z. E4 j( o0 J) {
Questions/思考题 163: l) }: O, |; q1 k C: h0 k$ v# X1 W
Chapter 16 Fabric Colorfastness/织物染色牢度 164/ {# u" E* v4 C4 T: e3 b$ a& i
16.1 Evaluation of color and colorfastness/颜色和染色牢度评定方法 164
" { V# z" v6 O7 F D 16.2 Colorfastness tests/染色牢度测试 1642 `* H1 N% W) K, i) R0 g
16.2.1 Colorfastness to crocking/耐摩擦色牢度 164" I2 y! i! @+ q' _+ j
16.2.2 Colorfastness to laundering and bleaching/耐洗涤和耐漂白色牢 165( w! v% p) G' T- X1 ^; K
16.2.3 Colorfastness to drycleaning/耐干洗色牢度 166; I4 M/ |- `; v3 s6 p+ z
16.2.4 Colorfastness to perspiration/耐汗渍色牢度 166' Y# p/ o& b6 ^" }8 [7 G1 S
16.2.5 Colorfastness to water/耐水浸色牢度 166
5 T7 D3 U" T! w# u 16.2.6 Colorfastness to light/耐光照色牢度 167- \" [- B& |1 ~: q5 q
16.2.7 Colorfastness to atmospheric contaminants/耐空气污染色牢度 168: G/ x t" O! f
Questions/思考题 168
- t4 D( i- Q! {- a! h# q( P Chapter 17 Fabric Flammability/织物可燃性 1696 B/ O i1 p5 l, D) x7 o+ u- t l; ~
17.1 Flammability standards/可燃性标准 169
1 B! V% K( `. @+ T7 S" S 17.2 Properties affecting flammability/影响可燃性的因素 169 E; |* q# F3 n1 P; t5 w+ s
17.3 Flammability testing/可燃性测试 171( U6 j* m5 v% [% Z+ q1 P
17.3.1 Forty-five degree angle test/45°燃烧测试法 171
. S- ^7 u5 H: g& {) x: p 17.3.2 Vertical flame tests/垂直燃烧测试法 172
+ I" k* k1 d: @; a& `$ |. M 17.3.3 Carpet testing/地毯测试 172
0 N- ?" z7 s1 Y+ Q% b 17.3.4 Cigarette tests/卷烟点燃测试 172- R9 c% N, |3 h0 y7 u# [
17.3.5 Other standard flammability tests/其他可燃性测试 1732 T$ k5 o _: x
Questions/思考题 173
+ R& i) o1 ^5 G. U7 v8 o3 C" O Chapter 18 Comfort of Textiles/纺织品舒适性 174
' T5 D n+ C7 ]- R; N9 H t1 X+ a7 v 18.1 Physical phenomena affecting thermal comfort/影响热舒适性能的物理现象 174& ?, ~- \4 f0 w: b+ O
18.1.1 Heat transfer/热传递 174- m5 V. H) `/ y* m) F
18.1.2 Moisture transfer/湿传递 175
) A# Y6 h! T& ^2 \ 18.1.3 Water resistance/抗水性 175
. l0 o2 X% ?5 k# m% ]) v* X+ l 18.1.4 Air transfer/透气性 176
8 C0 J; Q$ H) ^0 _4 t+ W 18.1.5 Porosity and cover factor/多孔性和覆盖系数 176
9 {2 b; @( i1 {/ W# ?. Y' Z5 E 18.1.6 Electrostatic propensity/静电 177
2 Y2 D7 n7 z8 L6 ]/ s) c; G 18.2 Evaluations of textile properties related to comfort/与舒适性相关的纺织品性能评价 177+ F) \* }7 q' b" t
18.2.1 Heat transfer/热传递 1783 j2 X+ r( z0 d7 b/ f- i
18.2.2 Moisture properties/湿传递性能 179
) U' g6 |9 E# R; \' c" p5 T 18.2.3 Air permeability/透气性 179
4 u; q* G. w' |* K* R7 o 18.2.4 Porosity/孔隙率 180
: R* U; ~) q; {, H 18.2.5 Electrostatic tests/静电测试 180% w$ k$ b5 Y4 q& J
Questions/思考题 180
$ {) k4 a6 a+ C* b" W, FAppendix/附录 1819 L( W' H/ L9 C4 y; z
AATCC:AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS/美国纺织化学家与染色家协会 181" S6 n6 |+ f6 ]2 J0 `4 t3 F. ]" X v
ASTM:AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR TESTING AND MATERIALS/美国材料试验学会 184
3 z7 t7 {2 \2 M! c( t! i. L' ~Vocabulary/词汇表 189
1 S9 I" v& [5 c# R9 J! z$ j% V/ {References/参考文献 197. j! K N5 M: q9 a4 S1 b
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