
纺织材料学(双语教材),刘妍,熊磊,PDF。普通高等教育“十一五”国家级规划教材(本科),纺织工程专业双语教材,电子目录,14M。7 D5 f$ f) n. z0 g) I
2 Q+ C. a9 `/ @: `+ l
内容提要
! P# \ i& K W% X: I本书讨论了纤维、纱线与织物(包括机织物、针织物及非织造布)的结构、机械性能、物理性能及使用性能。涉及的纤维势括天然纤维(如棉、毛、麻、丝等)、传统化学纤维及新型化学纤维。本书同时介绍了纤维、纱线和织物的各种标准测试方法(包括国际上常用的ASTM, AATCC及GB等方法),并讨论了与各种测试方法有关的测试原理及对测试结果的影响因素。
" V. p5 J# z* Y3 |3 I本书可供高等纺织院校纺织、服装相关专业的本科生及研究生作为《纺织材料学》的双语教材或专业英语教材,也可供其他专业师生、纺织贸易专业人员和科研及生产单位的技术人员参考。
6 \2 U6 H4 j, D' d$ T( S% v* A目录
1 w6 C! t$ u; F9 _4 V7 }Part Ⅰ An Introduction to Textiles/纺织入门 18; a' q0 q% A/ T. A' Y
Chapter 1 Introduction/介绍 18
* O4 G& R( Y" M8 Q# M 1.1 ASTM Standard Terminology Relating to Textiles/ASTM纺织标准术语 18
4 G# w; i9 ?: l5 B9 L 1.2 Fiber history/纤维历史 260 i* e( T1 F0 C, x/ t& ?
1.2.1 Natural fibers/天然纤维 260 ]6 ]; H' Q0 U. h; a
1.2.2 Man-made fibers/化学纤维 276 ?% J$ \3 Y0 q. l0 A. t/ L
Questions/思考题 30
* o5 ~% B- z1 Q% DPart Ⅱ Textile Fibers/纺织纤维 32
4 Z$ m; ~- m, H6 @* i' V Chapter 2 Natural Cellulosic Fibers/天然纤维素纤维 32
. L+ ]! R2 D" d6 d/ L* K 2.1 Cotton/棉 33, D1 U6 `$ p2 m: m
2.1.1 Nature of cotton/棉花的种类 33
: t% j/ K) o, E& e9 B 2.1.2 Classification/分类 34
( @; ]( B) e5 L 2.1.3 Growth and structure of cotton/棉纤维的生长与结构 34+ o! N% J& M4 k+ s# ~
2.1.4 Maturity/成熟度 36# |4 b: _9 p; u3 b6 Y
2.1.5 Cotton properties/棉纤维的性能 38
d' m" j* x, b9 Q 2.1.6 Cotton classification/棉花分级 39! i# h% o4 s; y& u% H/ l+ e
2.2 Bast fibers/韧皮纤维 404 C( G. W, }9 l7 k
2.2.1 Flax (linen)/亚麻,亚麻织物 41
. I: b6 Y& U! Y: L' j7 | 2.2.2 Ramie/苎麻 433 E/ F! U$ J4 X& Q
2.2.3 Hemp/汉麻 44
, Y- B3 Q6 f- N; J- l& x; k' J 2.2.4 Jute/黄麻 44
4 Y# _- z/ k( x3 K Questions/思考题 45
& H- I3 v+ E* i$ U! N# u- i Chapter 3 Natural Protein Fibers/天然蛋白质纤维 46
$ C* t" B, L* p 3.1 Wool/绵羊毛 46
0 b0 x% T! d4 h; b& Q6 P G f 3.1.1 Wool production and history/羊毛生产和历史 46* S" n, E' |; c1 R4 W
3.1.2 Wool grading/羊毛分级 47
, m( a. u C- A% u3 L( m# V 3.1.3 Wool structure/羊毛结构 47; e2 D: E+ A" g5 N4 J7 m
3.1.4 Wool properties/羊毛性能 48
% R$ Z. R9 T8 ?" n 3.2 Specialty animal fibers/特种动物毛 51( z0 o0 s6 z" k
3.3 Silk/丝 52- H7 g0 b$ e+ H9 g' T( v: h
Questions/思考题 541 W( r8 @& y! c& k! {+ L( Y4 @
Chapter 4 Man-made Fibers/化学纤维 55
9 Y" ^, O) Q0 n7 ^ 4.1 Manufacturing processing of fiber/纤维生产工艺 55
1 G4 R8 g5 q+ j |' i& h 4.1.1 Wet spinning/湿法纺丝 56
! ]3 S, V; U* D' V# g+ v1 \ 4.1.2 Dry spinning/干法纺丝 56* P0 p5 P7 b) p7 }
4.1.3 Melt spinning/熔体法纺丝 56
9 @+ S- X* B' o9 v 4.1.4 Gel spinning/凝胶纺丝 57. a! d1 A, `: P; F
4.2 Regenerated fibers/再生纤维 57
# r. q* K1 U# ^3 ]% ` p1 X1 k 4.2.1 Acetate/醋酯纤维 57% L4 j8 k9 b1 O+ ]7 o
4.2.2 Triacetate/三醋酯纤维 590 O8 b0 i7 l9 V! n% n5 N. R) S+ A& n
4.2.3 Viscose fibers/粘胶纤维 59
) J# e, Q/ s b2 T+ J 4.3 Synthetic fibers/合成纤维 60
1 P% o! O9 D0 p& l( u 4.3.1 Acrylic/腈纶 604 e+ W; W/ z2 @/ `8 M$ Z! T
4.3.2 Modacrylic/改性腈纶 61- k0 W0 ~& i0 |' N6 p9 c/ j) m
4.3.3 Nylon/锦纶 61& }( e f; y: i2 y- c0 O7 M( ^
4.3.4 Polyester/涤纶 62
# ^) s. M1 b/ Y/ M1 l4 Q 4.3.5 PBI/聚苯并咪唑纤维 63" D5 v6 _& M% j. s/ Y& n
4.3.6 Vinal/聚乙烯醇纤维 635 p: ?0 m# S2 ~" U
4.3.7 Olefin/聚烯烃纤维 63
( C' Q, n% I5 @" t2 A 4.3.8 Aramid/芳纶 64
1 o) y; v* i( ^/ V } 4.3.9 Lycra/莱卡 64
$ k/ [" `+ M" M' @ 4.4 Other man-made fibers/其他化学纤维 66
2 C$ J' }$ d, ]/ q 4.4.1 Glass/玻璃纤维 66
- N- Z: |( a2 x 4.4.2 Metallic/金属纤维 671 R/ }) X# D. S& q4 i- Y
Questions/思考题 67' Z8 B, W( `, Q
Chapter 5 New Fibers/新型纤维 68: n' \* x6 ]" Y2 X7 Z
5.1 Carbon fibers/碳纤维 68# k4 ^6 `! U- y8 u- B9 e
5.2 Fluorocarbon/氟碳纤维 68
7 {: r% N" N1 r' e; q/ j 5.3 Lyocell fibers(Tencel)/莱塞尔纤维 68* z1 A% M% J2 y4 b. ?/ b$ e
5.4 High-wet-modulus fibers/高湿模量纤维 69
9 U! e: U1 ?5 P9 r4 W 5.4.1 Modal fibers/莫代尔纤维 69+ M; D% `( d) @5 r7 _
5.4.2 Richcel/丽赛纤维 70
) ^# a- `3 Q+ T# {/ ^" z+ H 5.5 Soybean protein composite fibers/大豆蛋白复合纤维 70
/ y9 m& g$ H- }5 ]' ] 5.6 PLA fiber/聚左旋乳酸纤维 71
! z5 V, b8 A/ u1 m8 [, G4 b: |- K 5.7 Heterogenous fibers/复合纤维 71
3 j8 G. h& b. z! X k 5.7.1 Bicomponent or multicomponent/双组分或多组分 727 D6 ^, `3 E9 l( s. h! x
5.7.2 Biconstituent or multiconstituent/双成分或多成分 73
7 a6 G6 G1 ^& U 5.7.3 Matrix or matrix-fibril/基质型纤维 73
0 z9 B( n* w/ K# I+ ]% j 5.8 Differential fibers/差别化纤维 74
1 t& F0 i$ B$ m7 j$ z+ A* u9 n) d 5.9 Functional fibers/功能性纤维 74
7 O# N/ Y4 Z- ` 5.10 High performance fibers/高性能纤维 74
# p6 c: h2 M9 z5 g Q0 G Questions/思考题 747 t4 ~! {1 f3 d9 I S0 \$ U
Chapter 6 The Property of Absorbing Moisture/吸湿性 75
, z* P; P, k7 u$ F( W. C 6.1 Orientation and crystallization/取向与结晶 75
# s: ?3 |" ]: ? 6.2 Moisture sorption/吸湿性 755 ~8 G7 I: Q( t& z
6.2.1 Regain and moisture content/回潮率与含水率 75
( P4 o: s0 r6 L# n8 {) h/ T 6.2.2 Relation between regain and relative humidity/回潮率与相对湿度的关系 75
0 o3 w( D" Q" ? 6.2.3 Comparison of various materials/不同材料吸湿性的对比 766 |1 ~2 r2 z h1 h$ M5 p
6.2.4 Theories of moisture sorption/吸湿理论 78
1 {: ^# z E# R- m& T! ^# x Questions/思考题 800 J: `9 r3 O3 |0 @- }; k
Chapter 7 Other Physical Properties of Textile Fibers/纤维的其他物理性能 81
* Q2 [6 H& b( j: R 7.1 Electronic properties/电学性能 819 K+ n* n n' W+ z9 j0 T* a9 X
7.1.1 Definitions/定义 81) X1 F# @3 a9 y" f
7.2 Optical properties/光学性能 828 g) Y K5 ?, i7 U, `- ?5 p2 n
7.3 Thermal properties/热学性能 83
5 Z3 B4 S& K3 J- G. n/ [. o 7.3.1 Thermal parameters/热力学参数 83/ i! F, l- ^5 Y3 K7 ^ ~
7.3.2 A comparison of temperature effects/温度效应比较 83
/ @& G/ ~8 Q. W4 K+ \/ ?0 ^ Questions/思考题 83' ~# H K/ m* X1 @( m1 \
Part Ⅲ Textile Yarns/纺织纱线 84/ }8 d- V; w: Z/ q: [
Chapter 8 Yarn Processing and Construction/纱线制造与结构 84; g( T" [ v. F9 e) o9 r
8.1 Spun yarns/短纤纱 853 }: U) W3 Y$ _3 L! F: @
8.2 Filament yarns/长丝纱 85
# P* g% @) a8 v: E; S: g0 x, J 8.3 Methods of yarn processing/纺纱方法 85. X/ m( n. {5 G/ X
8.3.1 Ring-spinning/环锭纺 86- L3 |- o) u1 C/ J1 F) g7 o
8.3.2 New methods of yarn processing/新型纺纱方法 861 Y) P3 ~( O9 ~2 y
8.4 Single and ply yarns/单纱和股线 89
2 f$ b( Z7 F ` 8.5 Special types of yarn/特种纱线 909 Q& Z- B) t' ?% J5 O7 K
8.5.1 Fancy yarns/花式纱 90
: J( @1 E( f% @6 b+ w/ L, c 8.5.2 Stretch yarns/弹力纱 91) F9 O: a! m$ {5 f6 i
8.5.3 Textured yarns 变形纱线 91
+ b2 g$ |$ X: X: d6 { 8.6 Blends and mixtures yarns/纱线混纺与混用 920 V' {- j: ]* i( V% l& a$ `, I7 b
Questions/思考题 93
* c, K: d, a( f g9 ^- p" b$ H Chapter 9 Yarn Properties/纱线性能 94
, N' D; k3 m$ g O 9.1 Yarn number/纱线细度 94
9 H5 X- X& g7 o0 { 9.1.1 Denier system/旦数 94, D: I. e5 L" s$ ?: R5 f6 |* x$ C6 l0 A
9.1.2 Yarn count system/纱线英制支数 94
) F) Y9 {9 a w1 t- h 9.1.3 Tex system/线密度 95
0 ]3 b9 x9 o+ L! `/ z4 u- f( h5 { 9.1.4 Metric numbering system/公制支数 95
% ~* e( r6 ^ q ]9 r 9.1.5 Conversion in different systems/不同系统之间的换算 95
( _8 b" K. r! x9 A8 ]2 Z 9.2 Ply yarn counts and singles equivalent/股线支数与单纱支数 95
2 c( P: N4 n1 G% _. L2 z 9.3 Yarn twist/纱线捻度 96
" |& \0 z" ~ K$ ^& }6 { 9.4 Yarn hairiness/纱线毛羽 972 o1 f0 Q6 Q) k' \) i+ E& A: v
9.4.1 Hairiness test method/毛羽测试方法 98# U9 K& b5 Q) X5 x3 p8 u
9.4.2 Factors affecting hairiness/影响毛羽的因素 98 L) Y" o, M9 Q3 h/ Z
9.5 Yarn unevenness/纱线不匀 995 Y0 P- S1 V7 f2 f& D) w' T* C/ g
9.5.1 Test of yarn unevenness/纱线不匀的测试 995 O P3 W- f/ b. Z
9.5.2 Reasons for yarn unevenness/纱线不匀的原因 100& a' L+ o7 p E* Q# o
9.6 Classification of yarn quality/纱线质量分析 100$ k2 M0 q- g* A+ S/ ]' E4 N7 R
Questions/思考题 100
( l& r% ~# m% L; r; c; Q) M" kPart Ⅳ Textile Fabrics/织物 1027 ^+ x. _% p4 I7 l/ A( Y4 n
Chapter 10 Woven Fabrics/机织物 1027 C; f" C" K+ @5 }" _' s, P9 z
10.1 Making woven fabrics/织制机织物 102/ o- K( S4 [* [
10.1.1 The loom/织机 1023 G# A) f5 y9 p! A
10.1.2 Loom type/织机类型 104
" a/ T0 n( X0 M3 A* ]6 {$ Z# F 10.1.3 Loom motions/织机运动 104
1 _% _6 Q! o/ W) ~1 D$ M Q: F3 }. m 10.1.4 Electronics in weaving/电子技术在织机中的应用 105& M3 O9 P1 y# o& V, I
10.1.5 The selvage/布边 105. u" U& g* s' Y; K
10.2 Warp yarns and filling yarns/经纱和纬纱 105, k2 B5 j9 U- k: e) X% _
10.2.1 Identification/鉴别 106
4 c& T Y5 H- {8 X4 \$ E 10.3 Face and back/正面与反面 106
; c2 c/ Q7 v8 B0 u: B2 o4 C 10.3.1 Reasons for differenee/存在差异的原因 107
- }- U3 F$ u8 _& }) b 10.3.2 Caution/应用的要点 107
$ O- }5 u- }# g$ G6 q; D 10.4 Top and bottom/顶端和底端 107- l$ S+ S+ w9 Z: x) _) d
10.4.1 Reasons for difference/存在差异的原因 107+ c6 Y& a8 r, ?. Y- H# n2 `; B" @* E
10.5 Weave floats/组织浮线 108: ^7 J! |4 X- x4 D8 @7 l9 F3 U
10.6 Basic weaves/基本组织 108- g3 ~9 W" y& M& i1 O4 J
10.6.1 Plain weave/平纹组织 108
* ]; m. U8 {* f1 R5 D+ O9 |9 ?3 E 10.6.2 Twill weave/斜纹组织 109
/ B: A6 z0 v3 x- J0 ?4 o2 e 10.6.3 Satin weave/缎纹组织 111/ c1 ?0 E$ ?$ @# T
10.7 Fabric performance and characteristics/织物性能和参数 112
! g7 q8 [! q5 L( S( J3 Z* y5 K) X 10.7.1 Fabric width/幅宽 112/ `; @5 N+ K% K1 J" w0 U& N
10.7.2 Fabric weight/织物重量 112
c1 Y" ^) [1 h. G1 _' d2 X+ u* c 10.7.3 Fabric thickness/织物厚度 1134 F2 B! v, U8 w- b
10.7.4 Fabric density/织物密度 113
+ S$ e7 h X) d8 d; g& T 10.7.5 Fabric count/织物经纬密度 113
. L% y# F4 v& ?7 i" C! U6 X- ^ 10.7.6 Fabric defects/织物疵点 113
2 G* l3 o9 F' Y( `% p Questions/思考题 113
" m' N' k6 s; A' L' l4 [ Chapter 11 Knitted Fabrics/针织物 1145 h1 [ Y M( g
11.1 Making of knitted fabric/针织物形成 114
8 P- j4 X) H5 K; t, E 11.1.1 The forming of knitted stitches/线圈的形成 114
0 X( ~& n- Q; m3 F 11.1.2 Types of knitted stitches/线圈的种类 116
) r, M& _# [( ? 11.2 Weft knits/纬编针织物 1170 G$ n0 ]0 ~7 ?
11.2.1 Jersey knit fabric/纬平针织物 117
' j# c# h# M0 z- Z% j4 C 11.2.2 Rib knit fabric/罗纹针织物 118! ~4 [; }! }( w- g7 L7 k
11.2.3 Purl knit fabric/双反面针织物 119
+ X. {+ m, F. j, A 11.2.4 Double knits/双面针织物 120
) B4 A. Q+ f: B- K' a" I& p 11.2.5 Full-fashioned knits/全成形针织物 120! ^; o# j8 \+ R7 N
11.3 Warp knits/经编针织物 1212 y! l/ a6 w% z5 c1 p: c/ o: V
11.3.1 Tricot fabrics/特里科经编针织物 121
9 D6 t, \7 c% Q W 11.3.2 Raschel fabrics/拉舍尔经编针织物 122
4 J7 y4 ~; e1 m" a) Z! U" k1 U 11.4 Performance and characteristics/性能和参数 122& e% x& Z; b2 ^1 l+ l& x
Questions/思考题 1231 G1 p+ o& L* b
Chapter 12 Nonwoven Fabrics/非织造布 124" t7 x; N, y' g3 N, A. p' |
12.1 Introduction/导论 124& A, }+ \& p9 t6 X! R) O% F6 L0 d
12.2 Manufacturing methods/生产方法 125
0 E [. V+ E! K) g: | v 12.2.1 Dry laid system/干法成网 125 @( W3 V) ]/ P4 E
12.2.2 Wet laid system/湿法成网 125
; x% n$ R# Z7 Q) w 12.2.3 Polymer laid system/聚合物挤压法 1255 F& E5 s/ h6 j6 q+ I
12.3 Various nonwovens/各种非织造布 125" e6 P) ` A0 y
12.3.1 Needle punched nonwovens/针刺法非织造布 125
4 @1 ~# [$ S0 P/ q 12.3.2 Bonded web nonwovens/黏合法非织造布 126# g" _! e& ?5 Q: n/ A; l+ W
12.3.3 Spunlaced nonwovens/射流喷网法非织造布 1276 S2 K6 t+ V: i4 J
12.3.4 Spunbonded nonwovens/纺粘法非织造布 128
; M' N* A- E2 j, l 12.3.5 Melt-blown nonwovens/熔喷法非织造布 129" i s( i% y$ t9 C4 N" k6 v
Questions/思考题 129: Q) T4 }3 d5 {% z: T2 {6 V5 M
Part Ⅴ Textile Testing/纺织品测试 130
* W: M+ D" J. w3 O# x: N# { Chapter 13 General Test Methods/常规测试方法 130, \" p" Q; m' Z1 n
13.1 General fiber tests/纤维常规测试 130' e" X6 {1 ^. Q. U+ [1 t; P
13.1.1 Fiber identification/纤维鉴别 130* J2 {/ j. }0 N7 n2 c* R1 f
13.1.2 Fiber length/纤维长度 134
: a5 Y [7 a: ` P4 R& y2 ^ 13.1.3 Fiber fineness or linear density/纤维细度或线密度 135
) E* l0 Z1 t' ~: S1 l! N D4 L6 o 13.1.4 Cross-sectional shape/截面形状 135( W' D1 f. x) N0 h. l1 ^
13.1.5 Crimp/卷曲 135
: b# |' T* G4 V/ F1 ?: P: x2 h 13.1.6 Regain/回潮率 136) q4 Y' I& T5 I+ t
13.1.7 Mechanical properties/机械性能 136( u& n8 J3 T- F7 @2 T- t
13.1.8 Chemical characteristics/化学性能 136' g& L# |# }5 S! V8 p. M R
13.1.9 Surface characteristics/表面性能 1368 z, Q3 p& i- I
13.1.10 Density and specific gravity/密度和相对密度 137
" [% i; [) U8 r( b3 z' |9 f, c- @ 13.2 Special tests for natural fibers/天然纤维的测试 137. F9 h8 P/ g$ r4 _
13.2.1 Tests for cotton/棉纤维测试 137
& Y, Y' r3 z, ~7 m 13.2.2 Tests for wool/毛纤维测试 139
# f% S6 Y) ` x% T7 [- P i 13.3 Testing of tensile properties/拉伸性能测试 140
+ Z2 _+ }2 d2 @/ Y7 q4 |% ?& \ 13.3.1 Description of tensile proprieties/拉伸性能的描述 141
' a2 m6 O+ ~8 `, a" h% o 13.3.2 Fiber and yarn tensile testing/纤维和纱线拉伸性能的测试 146
: m/ @& n2 s4 [. c( j2 ?5 g 13.3.3 Fabric tensile testing/织物拉伸性能测试方法 147
, J \0 j5 }7 e/ C Questions/思考题 149- S. X" b, ?2 n1 b5 f1 a
Chapter 14 Fabric Abrasion and Pilling/织物磨损与起球 150
/ g, }% |& Z ?3 p 14.1 Types of abrasion/磨损的类型 150
2 ?2 U# n+ f2 k r. w 14.1.1 Abrasion between fabrics/织物间的磨损 150# v, ]( g( }' F" ^9 b0 q% P+ e
14.1.2 Abrasion between fabric and a nontextile surface/织物与非纤维制品表面磨损 150
8 g- ]: E+ H. Z2 Y 14.1.3 Abrasion within fabric/织物内部磨损 151! D$ U3 y% W6 H' P% a$ t& A- n
14.1.4 Abrasion by foreign materials within the fabric/与织物内部其他材料的磨损 151
( Y4 @+ L+ U: e2 C2 @( s1 w' ^ 14.2 Factors affecting fabric abrasion resistance/影响耐磨性能的因素 151
6 G, S1 j# k! D" R. \2 X 14.2.1 Fabric properties/织物性能 151
8 o- }3 u* a2 L1 q# p7 X3 B 14.2.2 Other factors/其他因素 153: K# E5 @' n: p v4 d
14.3 Abrasion testing/磨损测试 154' a% x% j0 e# K7 |( X7 o, Z3 ]
14.3.1 Visual comparison with an unabraded specimen/与未磨损样品视觉对比 154
, c1 S5 j0 W" {! k 14.3.2 Number of cycles to produce a hole/产生磨损破洞需要的摩擦圈数 154 B, j1 y. o2 }! J1 v7 R
14.3.3 Change in a physical property/物理性能的变化 154
5 G; x" h' k/ ^ 14.3.4 Microscopic examination/显微镜观测 155
# B3 c, `3 ~9 V" K! W 14.4 Aesthetics of abrasion and wear/穿着和磨损对美感的影响 155# }6 }+ n1 v [" i- m0 F
14.4.1 Color changes caused by abrasion/磨损引起的颜色变化 1555 }9 l' z5 Z( K) z4 m
14.4.2 Pilling/起球 156
4 R* O& \+ l$ l Questions/思考题 157+ [- `, O9 E! [" }8 N
Chapter 15 Fabric Hand and Drape/织物手感与悬垂 158' ^. N. m2 t" N+ K: w, G
15.1 Fabric hand/织物手感 158
. S( K" ]" f! [+ G! I' A! `) G 15.2 Fabric drape/织物悬垂 1597 H( D$ D9 b' J
15.3 Measurement of hand and drape/手感与悬垂的评价 161
* N' A! Y, @; o7 g# @ 15.3.1 Subjective evaluation/主观评定法 161 t) T3 V X% ~
15.3.2 Quantitative measurement/定量评定法 162% c, Y1 f5 A) F/ y- _( l3 r8 o' \
15.3.3 Kawabata evaluation system/KES评定法 1639 m; j( x6 g B$ W
Questions/思考题 163 L- @6 t k( \; j' V
Chapter 16 Fabric Colorfastness/织物染色牢度 164; M7 q" O9 H4 U% ?* u" w8 Y, A
16.1 Evaluation of color and colorfastness/颜色和染色牢度评定方法 164+ J1 X) c6 R2 ^, c( l- ^
16.2 Colorfastness tests/染色牢度测试 164 K" F3 ~6 Y7 M1 }
16.2.1 Colorfastness to crocking/耐摩擦色牢度 164, s8 W8 C! s7 Y- \& b7 X
16.2.2 Colorfastness to laundering and bleaching/耐洗涤和耐漂白色牢 165
) v1 y9 }* @' m" E 16.2.3 Colorfastness to drycleaning/耐干洗色牢度 166 y7 L' h/ h5 k5 p* ~3 z
16.2.4 Colorfastness to perspiration/耐汗渍色牢度 166
, z+ [" X" r0 e7 a 16.2.5 Colorfastness to water/耐水浸色牢度 166
, h; b& f+ G) J% ]! x; W 16.2.6 Colorfastness to light/耐光照色牢度 167
6 I8 H+ s( u5 w 16.2.7 Colorfastness to atmospheric contaminants/耐空气污染色牢度 168% f) i/ z2 S$ O- B) ]/ C1 j; L9 M
Questions/思考题 168
" J* B2 W7 v: O# M- U% C% C Chapter 17 Fabric Flammability/织物可燃性 169
3 L1 V& E) k V+ T3 P h 17.1 Flammability standards/可燃性标准 1694 _' k$ y" L! l; x
17.2 Properties affecting flammability/影响可燃性的因素 169" y" K& J0 v1 m: k8 r' {0 v
17.3 Flammability testing/可燃性测试 1713 \( \3 C6 w0 {. g, J0 u1 [
17.3.1 Forty-five degree angle test/45°燃烧测试法 171- y7 a( @( S* |2 i
17.3.2 Vertical flame tests/垂直燃烧测试法 172
+ N u# ?* c6 C8 s/ ^. J- G* ~ 17.3.3 Carpet testing/地毯测试 172, G2 o3 }0 Y/ h1 |4 G; V. K. A, S
17.3.4 Cigarette tests/卷烟点燃测试 172- U" j) H$ e% e- W1 i: I* s
17.3.5 Other standard flammability tests/其他可燃性测试 173
& r2 }: B! d# V6 Q Questions/思考题 173- f- n% N* n$ U6 {
Chapter 18 Comfort of Textiles/纺织品舒适性 174# p( S- h) n9 s: W
18.1 Physical phenomena affecting thermal comfort/影响热舒适性能的物理现象 1744 D; H% Y$ o4 O4 r9 x7 z+ P
18.1.1 Heat transfer/热传递 174
; f( @0 | H& ] 18.1.2 Moisture transfer/湿传递 175- T- U" c( P, y" Z( n k
18.1.3 Water resistance/抗水性 1759 M4 I3 }" F8 q7 ?, m. ~# P4 o
18.1.4 Air transfer/透气性 1767 u; d/ I% V& P/ A# p$ L" Z
18.1.5 Porosity and cover factor/多孔性和覆盖系数 176
! \+ l, j8 X# x# s. { 18.1.6 Electrostatic propensity/静电 177
0 o5 N+ W+ ^; _ 18.2 Evaluations of textile properties related to comfort/与舒适性相关的纺织品性能评价 177
) j' W0 @4 s& _3 t' Q 18.2.1 Heat transfer/热传递 1787 a) n ~2 k+ K {9 }1 Z
18.2.2 Moisture properties/湿传递性能 1793 R) R2 }: ]) S7 ^% s* i
18.2.3 Air permeability/透气性 1797 @8 \( P6 w* o+ F0 E8 r9 M
18.2.4 Porosity/孔隙率 180
% W7 h, _6 F2 l+ ?* G 18.2.5 Electrostatic tests/静电测试 180) ^+ ]4 z* p) L2 p6 Q0 |$ ~
Questions/思考题 180
/ d) a- q' m) ?6 M7 eAppendix/附录 181$ q0 a# E/ C1 [+ Q! C- _" o$ R
AATCC:AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS/美国纺织化学家与染色家协会 181
6 H: X m, w* \( g8 ] k9 F ASTM:AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR TESTING AND MATERIALS/美国材料试验学会 184( l% M- h, \; n L; d
Vocabulary/词汇表 189) ~4 [6 d1 }4 V. |: O$ i7 A0 Z
References/参考文献 197
# g2 y) a# c/ d! O$ z; m% e$ q' a& H |
|