
纺织材料学(双语教材),刘妍,熊磊,PDF。普通高等教育“十一五”国家级规划教材(本科),纺织工程专业双语教材,电子目录,14M。
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内容提要! A' S0 h2 `( e. O( s" y {
本书讨论了纤维、纱线与织物(包括机织物、针织物及非织造布)的结构、机械性能、物理性能及使用性能。涉及的纤维势括天然纤维(如棉、毛、麻、丝等)、传统化学纤维及新型化学纤维。本书同时介绍了纤维、纱线和织物的各种标准测试方法(包括国际上常用的ASTM, AATCC及GB等方法),并讨论了与各种测试方法有关的测试原理及对测试结果的影响因素。! B9 W0 S" X0 g. A Q, z2 z. u
本书可供高等纺织院校纺织、服装相关专业的本科生及研究生作为《纺织材料学》的双语教材或专业英语教材,也可供其他专业师生、纺织贸易专业人员和科研及生产单位的技术人员参考。
+ [- P( C4 S% j8 Z/ p目录
$ I# q+ A% h) D) jPart Ⅰ An Introduction to Textiles/纺织入门 18& `$ C1 M( y' ^: p- z; K6 R3 J1 w% u
Chapter 1 Introduction/介绍 18$ R" q% d: i9 K* _( `2 t: P( @5 b
1.1 ASTM Standard Terminology Relating to Textiles/ASTM纺织标准术语 18
$ t& E( r6 k( L4 i 1.2 Fiber history/纤维历史 26: Y# _" a( X" G7 q2 J; \5 l$ ~7 T
1.2.1 Natural fibers/天然纤维 26$ Y: U4 `& g9 }6 h) W$ ^; X
1.2.2 Man-made fibers/化学纤维 27
6 U5 ?9 J' ^6 v9 X' y Questions/思考题 30
6 d: B) I, ?6 [9 @& ` GPart Ⅱ Textile Fibers/纺织纤维 32+ u4 W) l: P. K1 }2 s% {" S8 G
Chapter 2 Natural Cellulosic Fibers/天然纤维素纤维 32
) E$ g5 v% o) C+ I8 l6 [4 T3 W 2.1 Cotton/棉 33
6 h9 C3 a! j$ w+ w( b: Z0 j, P) \ R/ ~ 2.1.1 Nature of cotton/棉花的种类 33
6 t3 ^7 }- ^/ b5 x 2.1.2 Classification/分类 34! k4 o4 o7 X2 [; F6 C
2.1.3 Growth and structure of cotton/棉纤维的生长与结构 34
9 D2 K9 W, W# U. X9 S 2.1.4 Maturity/成熟度 36+ F" a* a# P# C! G B+ N0 ^& L
2.1.5 Cotton properties/棉纤维的性能 380 M' I. j5 v2 P. }
2.1.6 Cotton classification/棉花分级 39
' w% j" n0 Z, f3 H' r( x2 P: F 2.2 Bast fibers/韧皮纤维 405 j- R3 l) T5 c/ i! C2 s- {
2.2.1 Flax (linen)/亚麻,亚麻织物 418 g' ^8 x, A9 X/ r; e/ S. _
2.2.2 Ramie/苎麻 43
+ q* c/ x; j% R# b. L( D& Q+ o 2.2.3 Hemp/汉麻 441 f8 ~ k$ K, z. q
2.2.4 Jute/黄麻 44* f7 l. Y) S- g- k! R. z
Questions/思考题 453 N5 E9 K( Y* a8 N: a, |
Chapter 3 Natural Protein Fibers/天然蛋白质纤维 46
+ j$ y, ~( k$ B' f. _8 ?# H s 3.1 Wool/绵羊毛 46+ {9 C* m! P3 I! @
3.1.1 Wool production and history/羊毛生产和历史 46: D( n. _" @5 }2 Q0 p* t
3.1.2 Wool grading/羊毛分级 476 d! k! a1 k7 q; G" O
3.1.3 Wool structure/羊毛结构 476 z' k/ F& d. x
3.1.4 Wool properties/羊毛性能 486 V( W2 I& p! |' h# w7 r( i2 M, I
3.2 Specialty animal fibers/特种动物毛 51
! ^ q( _! G% Q! g O+ W 3.3 Silk/丝 52
8 V$ F; `/ f6 u; a- v Questions/思考题 54( U4 f6 o: X" V( U2 M# Z' J( ?
Chapter 4 Man-made Fibers/化学纤维 55
. b- O2 s3 W9 u# O; B0 ~ 4.1 Manufacturing processing of fiber/纤维生产工艺 55) Z; i' F2 C! ]$ ~8 n+ O
4.1.1 Wet spinning/湿法纺丝 56
: y0 I, K. f- N 4.1.2 Dry spinning/干法纺丝 56
+ \* S2 I3 K) U2 | 4.1.3 Melt spinning/熔体法纺丝 56
4 [, `- _5 b$ Y 4.1.4 Gel spinning/凝胶纺丝 57
, y" e+ V+ V" H% P+ w9 @ 4.2 Regenerated fibers/再生纤维 57
- ^) N5 N0 i, B) q& d5 q 4.2.1 Acetate/醋酯纤维 57
6 k4 d! t2 n& R7 b8 ?/ E 4.2.2 Triacetate/三醋酯纤维 59
1 f" x! k! G4 r3 e# R. n: y9 [ 4.2.3 Viscose fibers/粘胶纤维 59" u( E$ x# H; ^$ w
4.3 Synthetic fibers/合成纤维 60
+ ~- c8 V6 j# k- h; y4 s) D 4.3.1 Acrylic/腈纶 60
! Q9 u# L7 r3 d6 O/ ^ 4.3.2 Modacrylic/改性腈纶 61
( r- W7 T+ z- f( {% `7 n 4.3.3 Nylon/锦纶 619 M8 g3 L! A! a9 F/ O
4.3.4 Polyester/涤纶 62
* s) _: {- a# Y" U7 B( m+ Z$ c 4.3.5 PBI/聚苯并咪唑纤维 63
5 `) ?: }1 w& B% G) T; M 4.3.6 Vinal/聚乙烯醇纤维 636 c. k) K" P/ n
4.3.7 Olefin/聚烯烃纤维 63- ?- D! u* h. a8 G4 u. B
4.3.8 Aramid/芳纶 64
, E/ u3 L1 H( m5 [0 v7 B 4.3.9 Lycra/莱卡 64
- v( O9 X+ _0 C# c6 g 4.4 Other man-made fibers/其他化学纤维 66
& {0 _; s: }' o; I% Y 4.4.1 Glass/玻璃纤维 661 K$ }: n$ N9 e8 J; y
4.4.2 Metallic/金属纤维 674 i3 f+ r$ R2 e8 j$ a
Questions/思考题 672 z; u. V7 k4 V8 C% z& P
Chapter 5 New Fibers/新型纤维 68! n& Z8 B3 A3 D
5.1 Carbon fibers/碳纤维 687 O+ t# ^' B9 K; ?
5.2 Fluorocarbon/氟碳纤维 687 F# C1 o o8 J! ~
5.3 Lyocell fibers(Tencel)/莱塞尔纤维 68. P. g% K e/ A: I
5.4 High-wet-modulus fibers/高湿模量纤维 69
& F, x2 \7 v/ I( B: L 5.4.1 Modal fibers/莫代尔纤维 69
, Y7 x8 I% T; B# j5 w 5.4.2 Richcel/丽赛纤维 70
9 |& _! W0 l6 D 5.5 Soybean protein composite fibers/大豆蛋白复合纤维 703 G) H- W4 \: x, F8 {, z. h
5.6 PLA fiber/聚左旋乳酸纤维 71
* _% n1 W: e+ z# G 5.7 Heterogenous fibers/复合纤维 71& W# P0 V+ j& `) r( x: N
5.7.1 Bicomponent or multicomponent/双组分或多组分 720 |7 O! p' x+ r7 [. j
5.7.2 Biconstituent or multiconstituent/双成分或多成分 738 `3 _# B- [ d& \
5.7.3 Matrix or matrix-fibril/基质型纤维 73, r/ n: h, L" d5 q/ D2 _7 t
5.8 Differential fibers/差别化纤维 74
: }6 l; v4 Y, J' S' y' S 5.9 Functional fibers/功能性纤维 74
+ F& m$ {, ^3 f7 I5 Q! P" H* ~ 5.10 High performance fibers/高性能纤维 74: Q3 X* |5 c& l9 y% s
Questions/思考题 74
$ L' O' M& u) C* ? Chapter 6 The Property of Absorbing Moisture/吸湿性 75
9 P7 H; @+ h% d/ o: Z) p 6.1 Orientation and crystallization/取向与结晶 75( P" \$ k8 n# n. c2 C
6.2 Moisture sorption/吸湿性 75$ {. \. y- Y- I' l
6.2.1 Regain and moisture content/回潮率与含水率 75
' l4 M, |1 I+ q; k; w0 } 6.2.2 Relation between regain and relative humidity/回潮率与相对湿度的关系 751 h3 Z, x' n( l5 X/ |& ^( A
6.2.3 Comparison of various materials/不同材料吸湿性的对比 76
* ?0 \4 c1 ~3 o) Z' I 6.2.4 Theories of moisture sorption/吸湿理论 78
% d" M9 G/ {4 g8 ^# w Questions/思考题 80
0 S! ]- Z5 c& u. t$ _9 |- w: h Chapter 7 Other Physical Properties of Textile Fibers/纤维的其他物理性能 81: d# T$ [6 a! L/ r B, a2 [
7.1 Electronic properties/电学性能 81
" D. o4 ~3 k% n: W" `3 Z 7.1.1 Definitions/定义 81# H/ Q0 R% |5 J' b3 n6 E
7.2 Optical properties/光学性能 82
* w1 j6 G P3 o3 K5 h- g 7.3 Thermal properties/热学性能 83
7 d# ~3 x' n; F 7.3.1 Thermal parameters/热力学参数 83
6 a) a- f) o0 {, {1 s% b- r 7.3.2 A comparison of temperature effects/温度效应比较 83
& F3 i6 k) J- r9 R! Q/ F Questions/思考题 83
* I! r% c$ |2 WPart Ⅲ Textile Yarns/纺织纱线 84
8 S7 n. U* p8 X% v" B. A \ Chapter 8 Yarn Processing and Construction/纱线制造与结构 84$ K8 k7 ?0 e; n& Y F
8.1 Spun yarns/短纤纱 85( P8 X5 x- W$ }" f5 F; U% {4 K* q3 C
8.2 Filament yarns/长丝纱 85
- p7 y }8 g; b: v$ H! l& d 8.3 Methods of yarn processing/纺纱方法 85% T, o+ P4 V, v
8.3.1 Ring-spinning/环锭纺 86+ ^% ?, H/ x% o% I f2 N' ~
8.3.2 New methods of yarn processing/新型纺纱方法 86
# E$ F2 p0 ]! Q" g 8.4 Single and ply yarns/单纱和股线 89' J1 v5 E# x, b
8.5 Special types of yarn/特种纱线 90
" a3 L: }! {' y0 j8 Y8 u 8.5.1 Fancy yarns/花式纱 90 B. A; Q5 t* j; c# g4 Q% {
8.5.2 Stretch yarns/弹力纱 91
2 x. x- S5 R1 E1 _ 8.5.3 Textured yarns 变形纱线 91' M! [( n) S p" o6 g
8.6 Blends and mixtures yarns/纱线混纺与混用 929 v+ P9 g- w! ?% X4 p5 b, y( n0 m1 x0 s
Questions/思考题 93
5 j, l/ m* z6 M7 i S p/ W Chapter 9 Yarn Properties/纱线性能 94
% Q6 k( ^+ L8 o' X 9.1 Yarn number/纱线细度 94- j4 ^* \; F& Y
9.1.1 Denier system/旦数 94& {9 t/ x' k! O5 E
9.1.2 Yarn count system/纱线英制支数 946 _3 z8 H& O& J+ a+ S; ?
9.1.3 Tex system/线密度 953 s- ~. K- S/ ~, ?' M& e
9.1.4 Metric numbering system/公制支数 95
2 U+ t. B# E, f9 Z& F 9.1.5 Conversion in different systems/不同系统之间的换算 95
) w4 E* J7 S; w! K& H5 y7 y$ l 9.2 Ply yarn counts and singles equivalent/股线支数与单纱支数 95
7 D; n8 X- t2 j& o 9.3 Yarn twist/纱线捻度 96
, X5 P- a: V n% o* f 9.4 Yarn hairiness/纱线毛羽 97. b8 V( {' _4 c
9.4.1 Hairiness test method/毛羽测试方法 98
/ ?3 C$ \8 t1 L* Z) g% X6 ? 9.4.2 Factors affecting hairiness/影响毛羽的因素 98
5 f1 C' c$ L1 u; O 9.5 Yarn unevenness/纱线不匀 99" z$ C7 Z: h! o; w+ m) V1 r+ J
9.5.1 Test of yarn unevenness/纱线不匀的测试 999 n9 i c- n/ w$ w7 r' @
9.5.2 Reasons for yarn unevenness/纱线不匀的原因 100
: t! \0 E7 ^* I6 W' U3 g 9.6 Classification of yarn quality/纱线质量分析 100
% b8 W( X7 [$ @ Questions/思考题 100
1 v% v" A- Y3 [8 H( KPart Ⅳ Textile Fabrics/织物 102
8 @% J. I% | C! c Chapter 10 Woven Fabrics/机织物 102
) Z/ l* I8 h. W( F 10.1 Making woven fabrics/织制机织物 102! f* I8 C2 A$ @5 I' F5 @
10.1.1 The loom/织机 102
1 P- |9 s0 T6 K2 E9 a 10.1.2 Loom type/织机类型 104- s* b/ k4 x1 G7 F( M1 Y
10.1.3 Loom motions/织机运动 104. Q1 ]$ L* n, R5 `, s
10.1.4 Electronics in weaving/电子技术在织机中的应用 105
/ `8 m% h3 ~* N; i9 a 10.1.5 The selvage/布边 105
/ Y/ A; I6 r# M 10.2 Warp yarns and filling yarns/经纱和纬纱 105
& o! u9 s n5 D8 n: @- o 10.2.1 Identification/鉴别 106
9 Q( E, t' @) F 10.3 Face and back/正面与反面 106& Y$ ]* x- i; \+ M3 Q& \. a% S* `
10.3.1 Reasons for differenee/存在差异的原因 1076 a* Q% `, d$ h- U6 `6 W* X
10.3.2 Caution/应用的要点 1076 b' }% ~/ s# [/ r
10.4 Top and bottom/顶端和底端 107
9 d" Y' d9 t' w. ]1 Y2 @- c+ j 10.4.1 Reasons for difference/存在差异的原因 107- V0 w2 n1 w9 X1 \: H
10.5 Weave floats/组织浮线 108
% ~) s/ Z9 Q9 p ~8 S 10.6 Basic weaves/基本组织 108' U2 G4 s* t. c; w- a0 l0 j
10.6.1 Plain weave/平纹组织 1087 x2 T% P1 p5 K6 b
10.6.2 Twill weave/斜纹组织 109
5 e; Z7 }1 t4 ?1 G1 [5 ~( ~ 10.6.3 Satin weave/缎纹组织 111/ t) K) `! v) J
10.7 Fabric performance and characteristics/织物性能和参数 112! T! p2 z7 Q$ V& _
10.7.1 Fabric width/幅宽 1120 d; c/ I2 f% }/ M; p1 l$ B3 Y4 q
10.7.2 Fabric weight/织物重量 112
6 e& `/ k2 N* g8 v 10.7.3 Fabric thickness/织物厚度 113; q: u* x9 x( g) G
10.7.4 Fabric density/织物密度 113
4 C4 I% E$ v# V: j1 f2 q 10.7.5 Fabric count/织物经纬密度 113
* p7 F+ I% ?& } I# x5 v 10.7.6 Fabric defects/织物疵点 113" B G* K0 x' _4 K& P+ R
Questions/思考题 113) S. v* m- y, o* I0 j
Chapter 11 Knitted Fabrics/针织物 1144 R d4 T& u6 W! q1 b& I
11.1 Making of knitted fabric/针织物形成 114
5 D* z# l4 Z( v( V9 a$ V 11.1.1 The forming of knitted stitches/线圈的形成 1149 ?! r' T0 G. p! {7 Y
11.1.2 Types of knitted stitches/线圈的种类 116* M9 J% m7 K$ S' L% t
11.2 Weft knits/纬编针织物 117
% c+ a+ J- T! r 11.2.1 Jersey knit fabric/纬平针织物 117
* C n( H8 y( S: u6 Y- ? 11.2.2 Rib knit fabric/罗纹针织物 118. \& \: Z- c3 i) v) g, _
11.2.3 Purl knit fabric/双反面针织物 119
% z5 P o" L+ P x# x- q 11.2.4 Double knits/双面针织物 120
' }/ E* c+ d g$ Q' n 11.2.5 Full-fashioned knits/全成形针织物 120# E, D7 N+ B( n& A8 c' {5 O. F
11.3 Warp knits/经编针织物 1210 M$ p) U, {* A' t
11.3.1 Tricot fabrics/特里科经编针织物 121& g5 V. p- d5 X1 v1 l+ T
11.3.2 Raschel fabrics/拉舍尔经编针织物 122& y7 F; u2 D! ?+ G% X5 n
11.4 Performance and characteristics/性能和参数 122! h" Q" @8 I/ n: r" F' G/ m; d0 X
Questions/思考题 123
+ m/ @/ m# d/ y" A: `7 g Chapter 12 Nonwoven Fabrics/非织造布 124" \& q8 s7 Y' X% |. Y# t
12.1 Introduction/导论 1249 O$ K/ R& Y* a) \+ x
12.2 Manufacturing methods/生产方法 125+ [6 l A6 l+ }% h, l2 _2 x
12.2.1 Dry laid system/干法成网 125# }$ O, g# o% X, [ ?
12.2.2 Wet laid system/湿法成网 125
$ Q# z% n7 v/ @: v7 u: x& V2 n* W' { 12.2.3 Polymer laid system/聚合物挤压法 1252 ?' o7 \& g5 Y1 T4 R5 Z* e
12.3 Various nonwovens/各种非织造布 125( g* J' A: q/ r
12.3.1 Needle punched nonwovens/针刺法非织造布 125
6 t- i) C6 r# N/ K 12.3.2 Bonded web nonwovens/黏合法非织造布 1264 B! j* A4 g1 s) O; @
12.3.3 Spunlaced nonwovens/射流喷网法非织造布 127
' k4 y6 Y) w' C: f, N' |- h 12.3.4 Spunbonded nonwovens/纺粘法非织造布 128
5 }7 F ~ M& e+ A6 u7 j% T: S. m 12.3.5 Melt-blown nonwovens/熔喷法非织造布 129
( t) Q8 H6 k! o7 p Questions/思考题 129
, R6 a7 Z5 J* U' O* LPart Ⅴ Textile Testing/纺织品测试 130
, k; [* O5 c% {0 l/ D Chapter 13 General Test Methods/常规测试方法 130: |$ r; V! P. O
13.1 General fiber tests/纤维常规测试 130
2 Y; M: L& P, R, \ _& n! ` 13.1.1 Fiber identification/纤维鉴别 130
9 H; Q' r( o: w. P' a 13.1.2 Fiber length/纤维长度 134
5 @8 I8 U4 d1 g5 a- X5 e6 H 13.1.3 Fiber fineness or linear density/纤维细度或线密度 1359 [+ K/ x X$ d! T5 K$ M3 e; X3 p
13.1.4 Cross-sectional shape/截面形状 135& K6 ]) V& I# O2 N1 G9 W5 o
13.1.5 Crimp/卷曲 135: d& Q% B2 b. V6 L
13.1.6 Regain/回潮率 136
) a) ~4 m7 _7 Q, f& q6 f 13.1.7 Mechanical properties/机械性能 136
! s6 n1 ?7 n+ w1 ^$ B$ O; P2 j 13.1.8 Chemical characteristics/化学性能 136
' E8 _) w; m1 ^ 13.1.9 Surface characteristics/表面性能 136% G8 W5 E$ a6 d8 {) N
13.1.10 Density and specific gravity/密度和相对密度 137
% t" k$ N3 ?% g M8 a 13.2 Special tests for natural fibers/天然纤维的测试 137
7 S- |, v& \9 w; z. s 13.2.1 Tests for cotton/棉纤维测试 137- y, o" |% R# f% B( B, U5 k
13.2.2 Tests for wool/毛纤维测试 139
/ x! K% Y5 A7 {/ T2 {; G$ a- w- r 13.3 Testing of tensile properties/拉伸性能测试 140
7 i( a' K7 y( u1 J: E: g$ E 13.3.1 Description of tensile proprieties/拉伸性能的描述 1413 h4 a% e- H, F/ b2 ]2 O( |8 }+ E1 y
13.3.2 Fiber and yarn tensile testing/纤维和纱线拉伸性能的测试 146
2 M' h7 N- C9 U8 T8 W5 ]/ M 13.3.3 Fabric tensile testing/织物拉伸性能测试方法 147
7 R, e, t5 W! C/ j. o2 r1 l Questions/思考题 149- S8 `) Y/ O( T) }7 ^2 i! g
Chapter 14 Fabric Abrasion and Pilling/织物磨损与起球 150; G6 O; `1 x2 K) b+ k- G+ T
14.1 Types of abrasion/磨损的类型 150! V9 Q1 N% q- |; q- I6 v
14.1.1 Abrasion between fabrics/织物间的磨损 150
9 e3 p" w' I/ n/ E 14.1.2 Abrasion between fabric and a nontextile surface/织物与非纤维制品表面磨损 150
3 v0 t1 ^" j$ ~' a) x, C9 ]/ t 14.1.3 Abrasion within fabric/织物内部磨损 151+ h1 y* W5 z) ^. h+ P1 S, g- U/ P( q
14.1.4 Abrasion by foreign materials within the fabric/与织物内部其他材料的磨损 151. Q6 @6 k, e, r) D; c" K8 G
14.2 Factors affecting fabric abrasion resistance/影响耐磨性能的因素 1518 h1 u& j/ `* T/ I. E- D- K
14.2.1 Fabric properties/织物性能 151
, E; \. j6 Q3 M8 _ 14.2.2 Other factors/其他因素 153
) B) K1 C! a0 B8 ` 14.3 Abrasion testing/磨损测试 154; a% i* w R$ q& c) u, @9 P* B1 O
14.3.1 Visual comparison with an unabraded specimen/与未磨损样品视觉对比 154
5 N. I% |) M0 `( g8 Z2 ^ 14.3.2 Number of cycles to produce a hole/产生磨损破洞需要的摩擦圈数 154
0 \: J, [3 z! U7 u7 b1 V 14.3.3 Change in a physical property/物理性能的变化 154
- b' g8 h3 g6 u6 o 14.3.4 Microscopic examination/显微镜观测 155
. H0 x' O g6 h1 V: b/ ]1 A B+ | 14.4 Aesthetics of abrasion and wear/穿着和磨损对美感的影响 155
2 e0 t0 K7 o! l" v. h 14.4.1 Color changes caused by abrasion/磨损引起的颜色变化 155
1 \* k! E% }9 z6 y [% A 14.4.2 Pilling/起球 156/ }/ g; X/ n# R6 b5 m' P3 M
Questions/思考题 157
6 i. A& H" E0 q& R Chapter 15 Fabric Hand and Drape/织物手感与悬垂 158
5 H' ~& O# Y! b2 m: D d5 y 15.1 Fabric hand/织物手感 158
3 M8 \' c4 n, p4 Z9 c4 Y 15.2 Fabric drape/织物悬垂 159& l8 ?; q+ ? L1 n
15.3 Measurement of hand and drape/手感与悬垂的评价 161
5 K, d% z0 h( M5 W/ a; ? 15.3.1 Subjective evaluation/主观评定法 1610 r5 A+ [+ p4 ]: r2 L: l. g3 v ?" h
15.3.2 Quantitative measurement/定量评定法 162
2 ]4 I! ?0 c$ A9 ^ 15.3.3 Kawabata evaluation system/KES评定法 1633 w$ s6 k" v0 l. s! n1 O
Questions/思考题 163
+ F6 w" ?, J( m Chapter 16 Fabric Colorfastness/织物染色牢度 164
9 E+ `! [/ q6 k$ M 16.1 Evaluation of color and colorfastness/颜色和染色牢度评定方法 164
, q% E+ J0 @! t, R2 z' x, u1 O% G 16.2 Colorfastness tests/染色牢度测试 164
2 z @3 v: f& b. j; e' \ 16.2.1 Colorfastness to crocking/耐摩擦色牢度 164
1 h( g7 k2 e: z/ t" U* ] 16.2.2 Colorfastness to laundering and bleaching/耐洗涤和耐漂白色牢 1650 M8 ~+ @5 D/ C
16.2.3 Colorfastness to drycleaning/耐干洗色牢度 166
, e) \0 L( c ]7 X. |. ? 16.2.4 Colorfastness to perspiration/耐汗渍色牢度 166
- V6 E! t/ J- g1 `/ e$ U 16.2.5 Colorfastness to water/耐水浸色牢度 166
, v( y" r) b7 L" A 16.2.6 Colorfastness to light/耐光照色牢度 167
# c9 ` S: R& ^' s1 C& F 16.2.7 Colorfastness to atmospheric contaminants/耐空气污染色牢度 1688 V; z7 d5 G% ]" p
Questions/思考题 1688 |5 W7 j6 G" o4 x
Chapter 17 Fabric Flammability/织物可燃性 169
+ m6 |) [$ C! d& [# q. g3 [ 17.1 Flammability standards/可燃性标准 169( `$ K7 L" p$ c/ T/ E$ W
17.2 Properties affecting flammability/影响可燃性的因素 169
; T4 b3 q8 J: j6 q" B 17.3 Flammability testing/可燃性测试 171. E) i# w! k2 A5 \+ ?! J" |! y
17.3.1 Forty-five degree angle test/45°燃烧测试法 1717 j2 z& n, e2 b! X' d7 |8 _+ b
17.3.2 Vertical flame tests/垂直燃烧测试法 172
s! h5 z0 y0 f 17.3.3 Carpet testing/地毯测试 172+ t2 d* B! k4 q& x8 ~+ L0 B
17.3.4 Cigarette tests/卷烟点燃测试 172
. t) w# V. ^$ ~/ i 17.3.5 Other standard flammability tests/其他可燃性测试 173
& q) t8 o0 n0 j% m% { Questions/思考题 173- V5 m% p8 `) A) k7 J9 o# i
Chapter 18 Comfort of Textiles/纺织品舒适性 174! M4 y, q% H. |5 I
18.1 Physical phenomena affecting thermal comfort/影响热舒适性能的物理现象 1748 ]; ^* n% @8 I* I0 Y" n! _
18.1.1 Heat transfer/热传递 1749 x6 z& m+ w" g/ |/ b* N2 \
18.1.2 Moisture transfer/湿传递 1759 B/ r% r- z# u- P2 K+ e& X& c
18.1.3 Water resistance/抗水性 175( o+ ~4 o8 t/ j
18.1.4 Air transfer/透气性 176
9 ~ | Y+ x$ A; b, ?3 ?& d 18.1.5 Porosity and cover factor/多孔性和覆盖系数 176% a: m" U; [6 C$ B7 Y
18.1.6 Electrostatic propensity/静电 1778 b- ?; [; P' S2 Y% \
18.2 Evaluations of textile properties related to comfort/与舒适性相关的纺织品性能评价 177, J' n1 |7 f/ K% U+ |3 B) u
18.2.1 Heat transfer/热传递 178
, \) ]' h/ Q) p5 R 18.2.2 Moisture properties/湿传递性能 1798 b$ f1 _, F' m7 K3 c7 _5 a
18.2.3 Air permeability/透气性 179
0 a4 y" l8 T8 a( v$ M$ Y5 Z- t 18.2.4 Porosity/孔隙率 180
) x6 ]- E/ s& A2 q1 l2 ]4 z( ^ 18.2.5 Electrostatic tests/静电测试 180
: d* P; E% n" S: l9 i) K8 L. M- T Questions/思考题 180, M9 A* ?% b3 M z5 Q4 t% }
Appendix/附录 181
M9 P c N+ f/ V" ~2 ` AATCC:AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS/美国纺织化学家与染色家协会 181$ y4 x7 \. a: a# F8 C
ASTM:AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR TESTING AND MATERIALS/美国材料试验学会 1849 c; y5 g" m9 B; K
Vocabulary/词汇表 189. k6 r) T4 O$ r. A: S3 J+ A8 x$ E
References/参考文献 197
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