
纺织材料学(双语教材),刘妍,熊磊,PDF。普通高等教育“十一五”国家级规划教材(本科),纺织工程专业双语教材,电子目录,14M。
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1 x; Q6 M, G- M. K+ |, n内容提要8 W" n; j, o! |5 f! e
本书讨论了纤维、纱线与织物(包括机织物、针织物及非织造布)的结构、机械性能、物理性能及使用性能。涉及的纤维势括天然纤维(如棉、毛、麻、丝等)、传统化学纤维及新型化学纤维。本书同时介绍了纤维、纱线和织物的各种标准测试方法(包括国际上常用的ASTM, AATCC及GB等方法),并讨论了与各种测试方法有关的测试原理及对测试结果的影响因素。. K( ^# C& i% N) n: @$ G: Q, M
本书可供高等纺织院校纺织、服装相关专业的本科生及研究生作为《纺织材料学》的双语教材或专业英语教材,也可供其他专业师生、纺织贸易专业人员和科研及生产单位的技术人员参考。
3 E* t+ t$ k- }目录$ X1 F3 b! { j
Part Ⅰ An Introduction to Textiles/纺织入门 18
. e9 e; ]3 R9 X5 I' `. h# ] Chapter 1 Introduction/介绍 180 R$ m' _) ^ O: _$ y
1.1 ASTM Standard Terminology Relating to Textiles/ASTM纺织标准术语 184 ~4 _ J7 }5 S4 {; m0 u8 ]
1.2 Fiber history/纤维历史 26# B, k N# z5 C, p' s: \1 f
1.2.1 Natural fibers/天然纤维 26% Q6 [9 p# A; k; }0 s
1.2.2 Man-made fibers/化学纤维 27
/ e# A+ |% f T Questions/思考题 30/ e" k1 O& [, ]6 o8 f% b& ?: O
Part Ⅱ Textile Fibers/纺织纤维 32
; H2 P& M) Y- {5 x" L: u0 Y+ b Chapter 2 Natural Cellulosic Fibers/天然纤维素纤维 32: M$ i+ u" U! c( N' U
2.1 Cotton/棉 33" n( j! F: t3 [5 P9 m
2.1.1 Nature of cotton/棉花的种类 338 p3 Q* d& ^2 `& F# e1 q
2.1.2 Classification/分类 34/ _9 w5 i* d2 @
2.1.3 Growth and structure of cotton/棉纤维的生长与结构 34) a0 P& l" d& A% Q
2.1.4 Maturity/成熟度 368 Q9 i! M( a3 u O# _
2.1.5 Cotton properties/棉纤维的性能 38
( Q+ U0 ^7 I5 W9 t' v) N 2.1.6 Cotton classification/棉花分级 393 Q2 V& H7 a! Q1 z4 @) E0 x
2.2 Bast fibers/韧皮纤维 40
( g5 _% C. c' w1 ]2 y+ e; G2 F+ e 2.2.1 Flax (linen)/亚麻,亚麻织物 41" O0 Q' x' u i: m
2.2.2 Ramie/苎麻 43' L1 e* w& ^: S! [
2.2.3 Hemp/汉麻 44
, a, X9 N% L7 H 2.2.4 Jute/黄麻 44
0 P8 I* V% [3 |% R$ W Questions/思考题 45
; a4 V- F0 w, n Chapter 3 Natural Protein Fibers/天然蛋白质纤维 46
. P/ r1 J; Q8 z% X; K' h$ ^ 3.1 Wool/绵羊毛 46
* e5 Y' @* h. t- ~ 3.1.1 Wool production and history/羊毛生产和历史 46
7 Y7 x6 ]/ `: [9 x% F2 ]4 D' q( d 3.1.2 Wool grading/羊毛分级 47, b7 I; O: ~- m7 F& P: l3 R7 `
3.1.3 Wool structure/羊毛结构 47
( A4 B2 W3 B. D3 ^- Y- U 3.1.4 Wool properties/羊毛性能 486 b7 a/ f* E1 }3 K: n3 S
3.2 Specialty animal fibers/特种动物毛 51 V9 X+ i% l. m9 e: E# v# @0 u5 _6 e& h; p
3.3 Silk/丝 52
' H0 w7 o+ {: V: f! L, _ Questions/思考题 543 a: Y, @2 K8 F* |2 b) C" J
Chapter 4 Man-made Fibers/化学纤维 55, |2 K4 n' `( h# _* F) h) d
4.1 Manufacturing processing of fiber/纤维生产工艺 55# z+ r `! x x
4.1.1 Wet spinning/湿法纺丝 56* k, o. k# U9 A3 h
4.1.2 Dry spinning/干法纺丝 56! ]" {; o j" N- E) {
4.1.3 Melt spinning/熔体法纺丝 56
- ~, x5 |0 o! |' i0 V: ` 4.1.4 Gel spinning/凝胶纺丝 57
8 _) k K6 E# X" z+ Q/ e 4.2 Regenerated fibers/再生纤维 57
z, i; R$ W8 M( U/ _ A 4.2.1 Acetate/醋酯纤维 57( J7 R6 U6 V' e t% [5 W
4.2.2 Triacetate/三醋酯纤维 59! W8 Y; {% l( }% [- A
4.2.3 Viscose fibers/粘胶纤维 59
5 S1 x* T C% z. m+ { |& p 4.3 Synthetic fibers/合成纤维 60
1 E4 s+ v; k4 k+ Z0 Z. {2 z 4.3.1 Acrylic/腈纶 60; K7 P) C: X# f6 h+ X
4.3.2 Modacrylic/改性腈纶 61
& j' @! S) z4 {! c X" A 4.3.3 Nylon/锦纶 61
% f y( W6 T* }' }8 @ a. g 4.3.4 Polyester/涤纶 62
# T/ x" o" O6 Y9 i% N% S+ L 4.3.5 PBI/聚苯并咪唑纤维 632 |, v" i4 D e$ N% |
4.3.6 Vinal/聚乙烯醇纤维 63; n% G) Z- B4 L9 n* V+ R/ g+ ]" k/ s' A
4.3.7 Olefin/聚烯烃纤维 63+ g/ s/ Y; `+ |8 @. u
4.3.8 Aramid/芳纶 64. y8 P- V. F: {) v/ d$ m
4.3.9 Lycra/莱卡 64/ Z+ ~9 z# Z) I* s( \) x
4.4 Other man-made fibers/其他化学纤维 66
+ \2 W; L& X8 J X& r, F& r) A4 M; c 4.4.1 Glass/玻璃纤维 66
& R" P" w9 O( o- S) \! f# t 4.4.2 Metallic/金属纤维 67* u5 I) ~: E) E1 ~" z. V
Questions/思考题 677 ~; O6 A1 P: R, t
Chapter 5 New Fibers/新型纤维 68
) F, I6 |2 n2 d6 R. P3 s# K. X 5.1 Carbon fibers/碳纤维 68
' w) A$ G0 Z8 p# P) e) o$ h 5.2 Fluorocarbon/氟碳纤维 68) E; k. j, D! r5 z6 S0 Y: m0 y
5.3 Lyocell fibers(Tencel)/莱塞尔纤维 68/ @9 \3 j& D2 M: R, I
5.4 High-wet-modulus fibers/高湿模量纤维 69
: F n& P; f& ?: ~! {) O" X 5.4.1 Modal fibers/莫代尔纤维 69# n2 v7 V) `" }+ B. _
5.4.2 Richcel/丽赛纤维 70
1 o9 N( a4 M9 o2 t 5.5 Soybean protein composite fibers/大豆蛋白复合纤维 70# W) C1 _, ]+ d8 J
5.6 PLA fiber/聚左旋乳酸纤维 71* O5 K$ |' K- c$ x* b. H3 T
5.7 Heterogenous fibers/复合纤维 71
/ E9 A# f6 j% [4 h1 x* U0 H$ p 5.7.1 Bicomponent or multicomponent/双组分或多组分 72
. `0 r: Z3 H1 h8 o B8 D- V 5.7.2 Biconstituent or multiconstituent/双成分或多成分 73* a7 ^- p4 A% g @3 [* V. X
5.7.3 Matrix or matrix-fibril/基质型纤维 73
6 B4 h. {3 e& Q% C 5.8 Differential fibers/差别化纤维 74& t$ P) V; J+ h! G7 c( R- |, V
5.9 Functional fibers/功能性纤维 74
. @9 `3 i9 ` j; |; ]9 w) D4 N 5.10 High performance fibers/高性能纤维 74
3 c0 ?; u6 `* n9 ^: ? Questions/思考题 74
- H$ B: ^6 F: E; F% K4 _ Chapter 6 The Property of Absorbing Moisture/吸湿性 75
; t. c' w6 J$ i g4 M 6.1 Orientation and crystallization/取向与结晶 75
6 q, W- Z- H# A, _ 6.2 Moisture sorption/吸湿性 75* \* l( e( d" u% B
6.2.1 Regain and moisture content/回潮率与含水率 75
7 U" N" m% ~- N: w: d; V& d 6.2.2 Relation between regain and relative humidity/回潮率与相对湿度的关系 75/ ]5 |* e' [8 a4 w
6.2.3 Comparison of various materials/不同材料吸湿性的对比 76# q9 n; _5 z* t: j3 x5 \+ l ^
6.2.4 Theories of moisture sorption/吸湿理论 78
7 M- ?4 V0 h4 Q) A Questions/思考题 80
8 `! N/ k: X' w; w* {3 N h8 ~+ G6 L Chapter 7 Other Physical Properties of Textile Fibers/纤维的其他物理性能 81 Y# @; T% N! I' _
7.1 Electronic properties/电学性能 81
! u1 K9 u+ u3 t# T( c+ N8 D 7.1.1 Definitions/定义 81
, D* w0 J; v$ m) S 7.2 Optical properties/光学性能 820 u, ]( q2 |) C# K
7.3 Thermal properties/热学性能 83- r& X) t; T R
7.3.1 Thermal parameters/热力学参数 834 H3 S* N* h9 p3 t8 i4 n5 v& e# W
7.3.2 A comparison of temperature effects/温度效应比较 83
! T* U0 D* M |, Y0 T' \" I1 D, T Questions/思考题 837 g! c/ w& [! `! [+ R) b% S( K% O2 Q
Part Ⅲ Textile Yarns/纺织纱线 84
" r' h( [, i* J" O$ ~ Chapter 8 Yarn Processing and Construction/纱线制造与结构 84+ Z/ b$ {: C4 A6 C1 _1 @( A2 E& X
8.1 Spun yarns/短纤纱 85) ]) q2 L8 B, t7 O$ h6 L* `
8.2 Filament yarns/长丝纱 85' `+ S7 W q& ~. s' I: `7 S' l) b, P
8.3 Methods of yarn processing/纺纱方法 85
+ {2 C8 k8 e# v0 I 8.3.1 Ring-spinning/环锭纺 86
6 X- ^9 E1 a- X- r3 T8 f- H# O 8.3.2 New methods of yarn processing/新型纺纱方法 864 a4 n! v/ d% \2 p& B6 ^. j
8.4 Single and ply yarns/单纱和股线 895 X) O0 {' ?+ F# o
8.5 Special types of yarn/特种纱线 90; N3 f& m& D$ T5 @. l6 T+ J- D* ?& l
8.5.1 Fancy yarns/花式纱 901 {& q! u. [. V) k, s: A L; j
8.5.2 Stretch yarns/弹力纱 91
1 o2 L" \3 {" b6 B1 ? 8.5.3 Textured yarns 变形纱线 91) z# e% ? ?/ S$ p% S* f
8.6 Blends and mixtures yarns/纱线混纺与混用 92
0 R o5 h& ]$ r1 N Questions/思考题 93
, @( q0 v* O( \8 X4 I' q Chapter 9 Yarn Properties/纱线性能 94
* Q2 l, [" i" v; |, Q6 D 9.1 Yarn number/纱线细度 941 Q) p/ Q/ @" [5 D' l
9.1.1 Denier system/旦数 94
6 V( f* R* u/ K9 \ 9.1.2 Yarn count system/纱线英制支数 94
& @8 x/ d( I, k* N2 b: }' U 9.1.3 Tex system/线密度 95/ s9 Z9 V _0 z3 N, q- P5 l
9.1.4 Metric numbering system/公制支数 95
) |" ] G: J0 n [! G. o0 Z. i 9.1.5 Conversion in different systems/不同系统之间的换算 95
- ]. M5 |+ a/ \ 9.2 Ply yarn counts and singles equivalent/股线支数与单纱支数 95
+ c8 l# G7 P$ t) @4 B 9.3 Yarn twist/纱线捻度 96. n. q" W8 {. I+ ? P
9.4 Yarn hairiness/纱线毛羽 97
. }$ b+ ]5 w; H9 \. h 9.4.1 Hairiness test method/毛羽测试方法 98. D4 d' }; u% O7 z Z' o
9.4.2 Factors affecting hairiness/影响毛羽的因素 986 [2 |. {( u# }+ D/ s5 Y& D. l* Q
9.5 Yarn unevenness/纱线不匀 99, C6 \4 f. N# m( }
9.5.1 Test of yarn unevenness/纱线不匀的测试 99
0 w9 i" I& G% Z8 u1 v7 J' t 9.5.2 Reasons for yarn unevenness/纱线不匀的原因 100
; k8 L8 b& u3 e 9.6 Classification of yarn quality/纱线质量分析 100
- z0 l) @: @8 R4 Q$ j Questions/思考题 100+ h( z; d( R3 u4 X7 Z; h8 b
Part Ⅳ Textile Fabrics/织物 102
0 r5 ~" H, x) w& B, d Chapter 10 Woven Fabrics/机织物 102" w- c; X8 s( ]5 l& N
10.1 Making woven fabrics/织制机织物 102! B$ r$ d: s- F; A" W3 Q
10.1.1 The loom/织机 102
9 l4 x5 |1 [! _6 e' a/ h3 W: Q 10.1.2 Loom type/织机类型 104
7 {3 c+ ~: i3 J3 B9 s! R3 | 10.1.3 Loom motions/织机运动 104
! D; \% |5 G( T( T* l) i% V 10.1.4 Electronics in weaving/电子技术在织机中的应用 105
9 N1 `9 { x& z1 B7 N6 ~7 J 10.1.5 The selvage/布边 105
% ^) p- _7 h: w2 B& E7 ^ 10.2 Warp yarns and filling yarns/经纱和纬纱 105
/ m4 v; I2 [" T. g& A* M 10.2.1 Identification/鉴别 106
, v# U" I8 l8 \( g4 e' A 10.3 Face and back/正面与反面 106! [1 a) L, ~" A
10.3.1 Reasons for differenee/存在差异的原因 107
W3 M$ ]. s/ e8 o. a 10.3.2 Caution/应用的要点 107 F" A" p% {6 E+ ?9 j. y
10.4 Top and bottom/顶端和底端 1071 s9 \' d1 M0 k' r( g! P ^
10.4.1 Reasons for difference/存在差异的原因 1072 q# V* M% S# @6 z- ~2 c
10.5 Weave floats/组织浮线 1087 Q; y. _, O" \& }. E& ^
10.6 Basic weaves/基本组织 108. F! D* b7 F% f( d9 r
10.6.1 Plain weave/平纹组织 108. ?- G2 h, b3 B" G3 {; w" d
10.6.2 Twill weave/斜纹组织 1099 v- f+ X! A& C9 h
10.6.3 Satin weave/缎纹组织 111
& H( @* H8 z, `( v* X7 q* F0 d. ?5 ? 10.7 Fabric performance and characteristics/织物性能和参数 112% y9 C0 I5 A" r: Q: z# M
10.7.1 Fabric width/幅宽 112& J& P$ M' n3 ^0 l( P Y
10.7.2 Fabric weight/织物重量 112
0 m9 Q1 s* `3 A" q) k. s 10.7.3 Fabric thickness/织物厚度 113
! `/ b( z, ^5 a- h3 Z% L6 o 10.7.4 Fabric density/织物密度 113/ H1 K' D# ?8 f4 {, k( p5 H
10.7.5 Fabric count/织物经纬密度 113
' X* K# g& A" e/ k* q 10.7.6 Fabric defects/织物疵点 1132 O P6 x L& M8 @4 ^
Questions/思考题 113
* E5 ]& L+ F0 n$ ~0 y, ^ Chapter 11 Knitted Fabrics/针织物 114
$ Z: T/ `5 P% B 11.1 Making of knitted fabric/针织物形成 114
- m5 y: I4 \+ V0 { 11.1.1 The forming of knitted stitches/线圈的形成 114
6 b& S( h7 `4 j 11.1.2 Types of knitted stitches/线圈的种类 116
$ @6 ` G4 r( C 11.2 Weft knits/纬编针织物 117* @9 A3 }% M. y' M
11.2.1 Jersey knit fabric/纬平针织物 1177 J/ D. w. I7 \5 A9 N& q7 ~5 O8 N, L
11.2.2 Rib knit fabric/罗纹针织物 118
/ f* m1 c& l( b# S+ G. t 11.2.3 Purl knit fabric/双反面针织物 1194 _5 Z2 K; [ R# D8 r
11.2.4 Double knits/双面针织物 120
]* z6 i& u# \3 b6 } 11.2.5 Full-fashioned knits/全成形针织物 120
0 s) |, _7 h+ S9 C/ A 11.3 Warp knits/经编针织物 121
3 H7 b0 V1 K! @0 {5 Q 11.3.1 Tricot fabrics/特里科经编针织物 121
, R( e# J- U+ {4 Q: B8 F 11.3.2 Raschel fabrics/拉舍尔经编针织物 122 Q/ _. w* g: f3 X' u! t
11.4 Performance and characteristics/性能和参数 1229 X, ^1 x' W8 L* n; L4 Q; q0 k
Questions/思考题 123! K" M( r3 \4 H: ^* ], e
Chapter 12 Nonwoven Fabrics/非织造布 124
! m c2 m* _, u, X 12.1 Introduction/导论 124. G& W' C1 _; p# \8 \
12.2 Manufacturing methods/生产方法 125; @1 H5 Y# e5 L- O* f
12.2.1 Dry laid system/干法成网 1251 T% w- J: o$ [1 R, q
12.2.2 Wet laid system/湿法成网 1256 Z9 Y" ~7 j; H$ H# ^* I2 j* x$ m) B. J
12.2.3 Polymer laid system/聚合物挤压法 125
8 N! Y& ^. Z1 `% \# t2 q0 T9 b8 x 12.3 Various nonwovens/各种非织造布 125* P$ j! @9 S3 D8 \* S5 a0 S, S
12.3.1 Needle punched nonwovens/针刺法非织造布 125
/ S# A/ ~! y1 v w8 V5 c3 T8 { 12.3.2 Bonded web nonwovens/黏合法非织造布 126
2 {0 e) N) F. O$ h6 w+ w( d 12.3.3 Spunlaced nonwovens/射流喷网法非织造布 127- t9 `3 @7 Y) ]+ @/ d
12.3.4 Spunbonded nonwovens/纺粘法非织造布 128
# H7 V& R2 ~; L9 u 12.3.5 Melt-blown nonwovens/熔喷法非织造布 129' a; ^# F3 u: f3 m0 f. n
Questions/思考题 129& ^5 o, W2 P8 \. {) r
Part Ⅴ Textile Testing/纺织品测试 130. K2 ^& x5 m, I2 g' }1 Y- a
Chapter 13 General Test Methods/常规测试方法 130
: K4 `6 |& H1 A 13.1 General fiber tests/纤维常规测试 1307 F7 ]" [. T9 M5 A+ a
13.1.1 Fiber identification/纤维鉴别 130+ t3 h% [ G! k( v* |
13.1.2 Fiber length/纤维长度 134
- c7 B- b2 M7 e4 ]7 v 13.1.3 Fiber fineness or linear density/纤维细度或线密度 135% `+ B* c# b+ C! k6 R! R
13.1.4 Cross-sectional shape/截面形状 1353 j4 A; m4 t( f! f
13.1.5 Crimp/卷曲 135
) w0 Z2 W0 w" p: e, g2 a 13.1.6 Regain/回潮率 136$ E( X. v$ F/ `1 c$ }) y
13.1.7 Mechanical properties/机械性能 136
% H/ p2 z# O! q% ] 13.1.8 Chemical characteristics/化学性能 136
; c5 o1 P- ^: Y9 Z4 A! T# H 13.1.9 Surface characteristics/表面性能 136 f5 f G! {; f: q3 E* W! N+ W
13.1.10 Density and specific gravity/密度和相对密度 137. ^9 V5 F# ]* U/ P3 | L! d' z* F
13.2 Special tests for natural fibers/天然纤维的测试 137; ^7 s* t3 H# f% e" K( @% }8 U* x, N
13.2.1 Tests for cotton/棉纤维测试 1375 ^) g+ @0 ]1 X' r/ D
13.2.2 Tests for wool/毛纤维测试 139! v, t5 H. |5 \
13.3 Testing of tensile properties/拉伸性能测试 140, p! {" W% y+ ^) x* q7 v1 H/ B
13.3.1 Description of tensile proprieties/拉伸性能的描述 141
; l& h9 z7 w0 n' M# o 13.3.2 Fiber and yarn tensile testing/纤维和纱线拉伸性能的测试 146
& y& Z a) z3 r: o8 R 13.3.3 Fabric tensile testing/织物拉伸性能测试方法 147
8 z6 ]. D7 R" n s Questions/思考题 149
% W; Q% a* D% H6 P Chapter 14 Fabric Abrasion and Pilling/织物磨损与起球 150
* \ A+ }$ B/ j 14.1 Types of abrasion/磨损的类型 1508 Y& I5 S2 k; M* p6 Z: c/ e$ T! _
14.1.1 Abrasion between fabrics/织物间的磨损 150/ _7 K) |8 m0 b& q" K
14.1.2 Abrasion between fabric and a nontextile surface/织物与非纤维制品表面磨损 150
# w. f# B$ t+ j5 T6 @. q% V& ] 14.1.3 Abrasion within fabric/织物内部磨损 151
- Y, \5 H2 b& o4 q F! C 14.1.4 Abrasion by foreign materials within the fabric/与织物内部其他材料的磨损 151& z0 `# C" E: }9 h/ S
14.2 Factors affecting fabric abrasion resistance/影响耐磨性能的因素 151
6 [$ T3 G4 {$ Z$ N* {) L) r. V 14.2.1 Fabric properties/织物性能 151
3 r: D9 ~8 R/ \$ ?9 N$ Y# E 14.2.2 Other factors/其他因素 153& v4 I! S7 N a8 x8 h& {
14.3 Abrasion testing/磨损测试 154
: g, A! [1 z! Q2 t# L8 y! X 14.3.1 Visual comparison with an unabraded specimen/与未磨损样品视觉对比 154) K2 z0 N5 }" i: \) P
14.3.2 Number of cycles to produce a hole/产生磨损破洞需要的摩擦圈数 154, c7 V N0 W4 p5 Y. @
14.3.3 Change in a physical property/物理性能的变化 154 f1 G9 i( S0 m8 ^' r3 B
14.3.4 Microscopic examination/显微镜观测 155
+ N! j; A2 p7 ]/ B E. x# W 14.4 Aesthetics of abrasion and wear/穿着和磨损对美感的影响 155
* q D8 x# P x; K& z9 p9 [$ t 14.4.1 Color changes caused by abrasion/磨损引起的颜色变化 155% ^* ~# j$ B, k' S
14.4.2 Pilling/起球 156; S6 i3 o3 j6 c1 V# e
Questions/思考题 157 h4 @- d& v: a \. `- P: K- V+ e
Chapter 15 Fabric Hand and Drape/织物手感与悬垂 158
9 F+ }# O* [# t+ i2 y( \. r5 K 15.1 Fabric hand/织物手感 158
" P! N9 X1 M' |6 ^ 15.2 Fabric drape/织物悬垂 159& ?0 k) R% R X* |
15.3 Measurement of hand and drape/手感与悬垂的评价 161
- o/ q* P' c1 u% _) ^ 15.3.1 Subjective evaluation/主观评定法 161
2 x" _: v+ f% c% w 15.3.2 Quantitative measurement/定量评定法 162( D/ r! B8 V6 c, t8 l6 T
15.3.3 Kawabata evaluation system/KES评定法 163
" L5 j' `3 Z* d2 X C0 J! ` Questions/思考题 163
# N4 P# V! F7 s5 N. c; x5 q; f9 i, v Chapter 16 Fabric Colorfastness/织物染色牢度 164+ O5 M. o) {5 N; h" M. \% H+ \; t$ N
16.1 Evaluation of color and colorfastness/颜色和染色牢度评定方法 164
/ k* {2 o G9 B D 16.2 Colorfastness tests/染色牢度测试 164
; V$ l6 [" L& v, D$ Y7 Y' j ?3 j 16.2.1 Colorfastness to crocking/耐摩擦色牢度 164
0 C% n3 p; W" \# D, A# R 16.2.2 Colorfastness to laundering and bleaching/耐洗涤和耐漂白色牢 165
6 H' e) N' @ y2 u @$ y X# g 16.2.3 Colorfastness to drycleaning/耐干洗色牢度 166
2 j, z! R' P: y+ h0 l 16.2.4 Colorfastness to perspiration/耐汗渍色牢度 1668 |$ k1 j3 w. W* {2 i
16.2.5 Colorfastness to water/耐水浸色牢度 166
! m: E* V' Y$ V8 s7 C 16.2.6 Colorfastness to light/耐光照色牢度 167
4 o( W; O5 |; H' v% b8 {6 | 16.2.7 Colorfastness to atmospheric contaminants/耐空气污染色牢度 168% p& _) x. E0 R- K. z
Questions/思考题 168% s8 ]: F2 j! r4 Y& n* U8 z
Chapter 17 Fabric Flammability/织物可燃性 169! I y9 s% h9 ~1 ]7 i$ K
17.1 Flammability standards/可燃性标准 169' Y( L; K2 n9 j$ N9 t
17.2 Properties affecting flammability/影响可燃性的因素 169& ~8 ` Q i/ M0 o
17.3 Flammability testing/可燃性测试 171
" d% E+ e4 y3 }. | 17.3.1 Forty-five degree angle test/45°燃烧测试法 171
; _9 p, W5 [& \, H+ y8 l5 y$ b+ D 17.3.2 Vertical flame tests/垂直燃烧测试法 172; ?, ] {% h- Z# R8 @" S
17.3.3 Carpet testing/地毯测试 172) d5 \; D, R/ w0 g8 H
17.3.4 Cigarette tests/卷烟点燃测试 172
! f6 o9 @; L6 b3 T0 z0 m 17.3.5 Other standard flammability tests/其他可燃性测试 173
; p& m) z9 [8 U# A Questions/思考题 173& G" t# N+ h o6 e
Chapter 18 Comfort of Textiles/纺织品舒适性 174
& j) A1 M9 @/ A3 b# O! @ 18.1 Physical phenomena affecting thermal comfort/影响热舒适性能的物理现象 174
# _( q) {$ q; A 18.1.1 Heat transfer/热传递 1740 g2 q% b) R0 s1 H, I6 W. z
18.1.2 Moisture transfer/湿传递 175
- K" {7 M" r- F 18.1.3 Water resistance/抗水性 175! m- t* v$ H: M D. E( e
18.1.4 Air transfer/透气性 176, g/ x* L: s5 i
18.1.5 Porosity and cover factor/多孔性和覆盖系数 176) g3 G8 N! v7 {( C) N) I k
18.1.6 Electrostatic propensity/静电 1773 ~1 R* c3 Y/ X! \4 j$ y
18.2 Evaluations of textile properties related to comfort/与舒适性相关的纺织品性能评价 177, M. ]7 I$ a# }0 q! T. }1 G3 b
18.2.1 Heat transfer/热传递 178$ {+ b9 k5 U: Y$ h
18.2.2 Moisture properties/湿传递性能 179" P1 w2 X8 u( Y- p) h/ \8 @' N
18.2.3 Air permeability/透气性 179" H' J7 W: I5 j
18.2.4 Porosity/孔隙率 180
6 _% d) k# \; o. b5 }' I 18.2.5 Electrostatic tests/静电测试 180
6 J0 W ?4 z" H* \ Questions/思考题 180
9 o; [/ Z P: y" ?1 W+ lAppendix/附录 181
6 a- s7 A) o0 m* i AATCC:AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS/美国纺织化学家与染色家协会 1817 w; W3 V/ c H: ?" F: j
ASTM:AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR TESTING AND MATERIALS/美国材料试验学会 184
' B' M' @, X! ]7 z& aVocabulary/词汇表 189
! N) d7 c7 S5 C% b; XReferences/参考文献 197
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